GARDEN  GUIDE 

THE  AMATEUR  GARDENERS' 


©t|P  i.  1.  Bill  ©brarg 


J^nrtb  (Eaniltna  S'lal?  (EolUa^ 


SB455 
D55 


158893 


This  book  may  be  kept  out  TWO  WEEKS 
ONLY,  and  is  subject  to  a  fine  of  m^R 
CENTS  a  day  thereafter.  It  is  due  on  the 
day  indicated  below: 


50M — May-54 — Form   3 


Garden  Guide 

THE  AMATEUR  GARDENERS' 
HANDBOOK 

Tells  you  how  to  raise  Vegetables,  Fruits  and  Flowers. 
How  to  Plan,  Plant  and  Maintain  the  Home  Grounds 
the  Suburban  Garden,  the  City  Plot.  How  to  Care  for 
Koses  and  Other  Favorite  Flowers,  Hardy  Plants, 
Trees,  ^rubs  Lawns,  Porch  Plants  and  Window 
Boxes.  With  Chapters  on  Pruning,  Propagation,  Ferti- 
hzers.  Diseases,  Insect  Pests,  Weeds,  Tools,  Winter 
storage.  Canning,  Birds,  Garden  Furniture  and  1001 
Practical   Pointers 

Profusely  illustrated  with  over  275  teaching  plans  and  diagrams 

and  reproduced  photographs,  all  made  expressly 

for  this  Standard  Text  Book 


Writers   of  Principal   Chapters 
The  Vegetable  Garden      Bungalow  Gardens 

I:  a^nSr^xN^  Lawn  and  Garden  Weeds, 

_      ^  Animal  Life  in  the  Garden, 

1  HE  Fruit  Garden  e.  l.  d.  Seymour 

P."rG^S.,^  The  Flower  Garden, 

Pruning,  Propagation, 
Home  Ground  Planting     Lawns,  Trees,  Shrubs,  etc. 

Robert  B.  Cridland  Prof.  A.  C.  Hottes 

Insect  Pests  ^^T.olT\  h  w 

Prok.W.E.Brxtton  ^      Pkop.Thos.H.W„xxh 

Canning 
Diseases  of  Plants  ^-  ^-  Peterkin 

Edwin  F.  Hopkins  BiRDS  IN  THE  GaRDEN 

H.  H.  Whetzel  Chas.  Livingston  Bull 


Edited  by  A.  T.  DE  LA  MARE 


NEW  YORK: 
A.  T.  De  La  Mare  Company,  Inc.  438  to  448  West  37th  Street 


First  Edition 
Copyright,  March  15,  1917 

Second  Edition,  Revised 
Copyright,  1917 

Third  Edition,  Revised  and  Enlarged 
Copyright,  March,  1918 

Fourth  Edition,  Revised  and  Enlarged 

Copyright,  March,  1920,  First  Printing 

November,  1921,  Second  Printing 


T.  De  La  Mare  Company,  Inc. 

New  York 

All  Rights  Reserved 


CONTENTS      j^  53393 

(Readers  are  requested  always  to  consult  the  Index  to  Contents  which  will  be  found 
in  the  final  pages  of  this  book.  Any  general  subject  can,  however,  be  located  (juickly  and 
easily  by  means  of  the  following  synopsis  of  chapters,  each  of  which  is  practically  complete 
in  itself). 

CHAPTER  I— Planning  the  Home  Grounds 

First  Considerations  in  the  Composition  of  a  Garden — Drives — Lawns 

— Locating  the  Dwelling  House — Treatment  of  the  Shrubs,  Belts,  Borders, 

Beds — A  Plea  for  Greater  Seclusion — Home  Grounds — Planting  Plans  and 

Keys  thereto.  Pp.  13-33 

CHAPTER  H— Lawns  and  Grass  Plots 

Seed  Mixtures — Sowing — Yearly  Care — Mowing — Rolling — Weeding 
—Turfing.  Pp.  34-38 

CHAPTER  in— Hedges  and  Fences 

Hedges  of  Privet,  Berberis,  Siberian  Dogwood,  Box,  Yew,  Ilex, 
Buckthorn,  Crataegus  Oxycantha,  Hemlock,  Arborvitae  and  Norway 
Spruce — Location — Soil — Fences    with    Climbers.  Pp.  39-42 

CHAPTER  IV— Trees  and  Shrubs 

Trees  for  Shade  and  Shelter  upon  the  Lawn — Street  Trees — Ever- 
greens— Planting  Trees — Best  Shrubs — Shrubs  with  Edible  Berries — 
Evergreen  Shrubs — Ground  Cover  and  Low  Growing  Shrubs — Low 
Growing  and  Trailing  Shrubs  for  Various  Purposes — Bushes  for  Wet 
Places — Flowering  the  Branches  of  Shrubs  Indoors — Blooming  Dates  of 
Trees,  Shrubs  and  Climbers — How  to  Treat  Nursery  Stock  and  Material 
Gathered  from  the  Wild.  Pp.  43-63 

CHAPTER  V— The  Rose  Garden 

Best  Soils — Width  of  Beds — Preparation  of  Soil — Time  to  Plant — 
Distance  Apart — Summer  Treatment — Insects — Diseases — Kinds  of  Roses 
— Brier  Roses — Climbing  Roses — Tea  Roses — Hybrid  Teas — Hybrid 
Perpetuals — Pernetiana,  Moss  and  Polyantha  Roses.  Pp.  64-74 

CHAPTER  VI— Hardy  Perennials  for  the  Permanent  Garden 

Combinations  of  Perennials — Considerations  for  a  Perennial  Border 
— Situation  of  Border — Preparation  of  Soil — Planting — Spring  Planting 
— Autumn  Planting — Cultivation — Staking — Removal  of  Old  Flowers  and 
Seed  Pods — Necessity  for  Replanting — List  of  Indispensable  Hardy  Per- 
ennials— General  Selection  of  Hardy  Flowers — Medium  Tall  Perennials 
— Dwarf  Perennials — Plans  for  Perennial  Borders.  Pp.  75-87 

CHAPTER  VII— Annuals  and  Biennials 

Care  in  Purchasipg  Seed — Sowing — Transplanting — Time  to  Sow 
Out-of-Doors — Preparation  of  Soil — Keeping  Seed  Pods  Removed — Vines 
— Combinations  of  Annuals — Everlasting  Flowers — Annuals  Useful  for 
Cut  Flowers — Lesser  Known  Annuals — Annuals  for  Edging  Beds  of  Other 
Plants — Foliage  Annuals — Biennials — Germination  Table.  Pp.  88-102 

CHAPTER  VIII— Some  Garden  Favorites  and  How  to  Grow  Them 
Asters  —  Cannas  —  Campanulas — Coleus  —  Columbines  —  Dahhas  — 
Chrysanthemums  and  Daisies — Delphiniums — Foxglove — Geraniums — 
Gladioli — Hibiscus — Irises — Lathyrus  —  Lilies  —  Marigold  —  Pansies  — 
Peonies — Petunias — Phlox — Pinks — Poppy^Salvia — Snapdragons — Sweet 
Peas  —  Sweet    William  —  Tritomas  —  Tuberous    Begonias  —  Zinnias. 

Pp.  103-140 


GARDEN  GUIDE 

CHAPTER  IX— Bulbs  and  Tuberous-Rooted  Plants 

Preparation  of  Beds — Time  of  Planting — Planting — Naturalizing — 
Culture  During  the  Season — Mulching  after  Planting — Descriptive  List 
of  Bulbs  with  Cultural  Notes.  Pp.  141-148 

CHAPTER  X — Hardy  Garden  Ferns  and  Water  Plants 
Fern    Culture — Spores — List    of    Ferns — Waterside    Plants — Water 
Lilies.  Pp.  149-154 

CHAPTER  XI— The  Rock  Garden 

Regions  Adapted  for  Rockeries — Japanese  Gardens — Construction  of 
Rock  Gardens — Material  for  Rock  Gardens.  Pp.  155-159 

CHAPTER  XH— Garden  Furniture 

Benches — Rustic  Chairs,  Seats,  Screens,  Trellises,  Pergolas,  etc. — 
The  Garden  House— Fountains— Bird  Baths.  Pp.  160-166 

CHAPTER  XIII— Window  Boxes  and  Porch  Plants 

Self-Watering  Boxes — Porch  Boxes — Hanging  Baskets — Concrete 
Boxes — Wicker  Window  Boxes — Plants  for  Window  Boxes.     Pp.  167-172 

CHAPTER  XIV— The  Vegetable  Garden 

Growing  Plants  for  Setting  Out — Digging  and  Preparing  the  Soil — 
Sowing  and  Transplanting — Watering — General  Principles  of  Cultivation 
— Harvesting  and  Storing — Companion  Crops — Succession  Crops — 
Cultivation  of  the  Chief  Vegetables — Useful  Pointers  for  the  Vegetable 
Grower — Labehng  Plants — The  Vegetable  Garden  in  Winter — The  Home 
Food  Winter  Storage  Cellar— Herbs.  Pp.  173-222 

CHAPTER  XV— Fruit  for  the  Small  Garden 

Apples  —  Apricots  —  Cherries  —  Grapes  —  Pears  —  Plums  —  Peaches 
—  Quinces  —  Strawberries  —  Currants  —  Gooseberries  —  Raspberries  — 
Blackberries — Dewberries — Loganberries — Cordon  and  Espalier  Training 
Systems— Ideal  Fruit  Garden.  Pp.  223-243 

CHAPTER  XVI— Bungalow  or  Mid-Summer  Gardening 

Pp.  244-247 

^    CHAPTER  XVII— Fertilizers 

Essential  Elements — Sources  of  Supply — Animal  Manures — Green 
Manures — Commercial  Fertihzers — Bonemeal — Nitrate  of  Soda — Poultry 
Manure — Lime — Humus — Where  and  How  to  Use  Fertilizers — Home 
Mixing  of  Fertilizers — Suitable  Fertilizers  for  Vegetables  and  Fruits — 
Fertilizing  Table — Scarcity  of  Stable  Manure — Some  Commercial 
Fertilizers  in  Common  Use.  Pp.  248-258 

CHAPTER  XVIII— Pruning 

Its  Advantage — Pruning  Briers  and  Roses  for  Landscape  Effect — 
CUmbing  and  Polyantha  Roses — Hybrid  Perpetuals— Hybrid  Teas — 
Shrubs — Hedges — Fruit  Trees — Evergreens — List  of  Subjects  with  Pruning 
Instructions.  Pp.  259-267 


CONTENTS 

CHAPTER  XIX— Plant  Propagation 

Hardwood  Cuttings — Soft-wooded  Cuttings — Making  Cuttings  of 
Perennials — Leaf  Cuttings — Root  Cuttings — Division  of  Perennials — 
Seed  Sowing:  Perennials  and  Annuals — Vegetables — Starting  Flowers 
Indoors — Shrub  and  Tree  Seeds — Grafting — Budding — Layering. 

Pp.  268-277 

CHAPTER  XX— Transplanting 

Basic  Principles — Transplanting  Seedlings — Transplanting  to  Open 

Ground — What   and   What   Not  to   Transplant — Transplanting   Shrubs 

and  Small  Trees — Frozen  Ball  Method  of  Transplanting — Transplanting 

Fruit  Trees — Moving  Large  Trees — Operations  Resembling  Transplanting. 

Pp.  278-287 
CHAPTER  XXI— Winter  Protection 
Leaf  Coverings — Protecting  Lilies  and  Roses — Windbreaks  for  Trees 
and  Shrubs — Covering  Tender  Plants — Facts  about  Frost.  Pp.  288-292 

CHAPTER  XXII— Some  Insect  Pests  of  Cultivated  Plants 

The  Life  of  an  Insect — Spraying  Equipment — Materials  Used  to 
Control  Insect  Pests — Fumigants — Insect  Pests  arranged  by  Host  Plants. 

Pp.  293-308 
CHAPTER  XXIII— Some  Common  Diseases  of  Plants  and  Their 

Control 

How   Diseases  in   Plants  are  Exhibited — The   Cause  of  Disease — 

Concerning  the  Control  of  Diseases — Materials  Used  to  Control  Plant 

Diseases — The  More  Common  Diseases  of  Garden  Crops.         Pp.  309-318 

CHAPTER  XXIV— Lawn  and  Garden   Weeds    Pp.  319-321 

CHAPTER  XXV— Greenhouses,  Hotbeds  and  Frames 

Advantages  of  a  Greenhouse — What  Can  be  Grown — Greenhouses  for 

the  Amateur — Span-Roofed  Houses — Attached    Conservatories — Heating 

— Frames  and  Their  Uses — Management  of  Hotbeds  and  Coldframes — 

Useful  Little  Forcing  Structure.  Pp.  322-333 

CHAPTER  XXVI— Garden  Tools  Pp.  334-338 

CHAPTER  XXVII— Calendar  of  Garden  Operations 

Pp.  339-345 

CHAPTER  XXVIII— Animal  Life  in  the  Garden 

Poultry    Possibilities — Pigeons — Bees — Rabbits — Larger    Animals. 

Pp.  346-348 

CHAPTER  XXIX— Birds  in  the  Garden 

Best  Type  of  Bird  Houses — Feeding  the  Birds — Berry-bearing  Shrubs. 

Pp.  349-356 

CHAPTER  XXX— Fruits  and  Vegetables  for  Winter 
Canning  Fruits  and  Vegetables — Methods  of  Canning — Scalding, 
Blanching  and  Cold-Dipping — Sterilization — Equipment — Jars,  Tin  Cans 
and  Rubbers — Sirups — Flat  Sour — Treatment  After  Carming — Preserva- 
tive Powder — Instructions  for  Canning  Vegetables  and  Fruit — Recipes — 
Time  Table  for  Scalding,  Blanching  and  Sterilizing  Vegetables  and  Fruits. 

Pp.  357-364 

CHAPTER  XXXI— Topics,  Miscellaneous     Pp.  365-372 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


(For  General  Index,  See  Pages  S73  and  on) 


Annual  and  Perennial  Flowers, 

Garden  of 90 

Apple  Tree,  Typical  Half  Stand- 
ard  226 

ArborvitaB,  American 45 

Asters:    China  "Comet" 103 

Birds:     In  Garden,  349  to  356; 
Nests,    How    to    Build,    351, 

353;  Bath 166 

Bulbs:    Table  Showing  Planting 

Depths,  142;  Garden  View...  .144 
Cannas:     Easy  to  Grow,   104; 

Bed  of 105 

Canterbury  Bells 107 

Chrysanthemum  Cuttings,  Prop- 
agation of. 268 

Chrysanthemums,     Cluster     of 

Hardy 113 

City    Houses   and   Their   Rear 

Yards •. 363 

Coldframe,  Double  Glass,  329; 

Facing  due  South 330 

Conservatories  for  the  Amateur 

323,  324,  325 
Cordon     System     of    Training 

Fruit  Trees 228 

Crocus:    Naturalized  in  Grass.  .140 
Currant,  Standard  Grown,  231; 
Pruning  Shoots,  232;  Propa- 
gation   268 

DaflFodil:     Typical  Flower  of.  .146 
Dahlia:     Hedge  of,  110;  Roots, 

Propagation  of 269 

Espaher    System    of    Training 

Fruit  Trees 228 

Flagstaff 368 

Fern     Plant     Showing     Frond, 

Spores,  etc 150 

Jorcer,  "  Gro  Quick" 333 

.Forcing  Frame 328 

Foxgloves,  View  of 92 

Fruit_ Garden,  Plan  for  an  Ideal. 243 

Fruit  Pruning 266 

Fruit  Trees:   Trained  to  Cordon 

and  Espalier. 228 

Garden  Board 368 

Garden  Frame 326 

Garden  Furniture 161-166 


Garden  Tools 334-338 

Geranium,  Bed  of,  115;  In  plant- 
ing  247 

Gladiolus,  Spike  of 117 

Grapes,  Training  System  (Mun- 

son's) 234,  235 

Hardy  Flowers:  Borders  of,  76, 
77;  80;  Bringing  Flower  Gar- 
den Up  to  House 78 

Hedges:     Privet,  41;  Hemlock, 

42;  Morning  Glories 98 

Home  Ground  Surroundings : 
Working  Men's  Dwellings, 
Gaunt  and  Bare,  18;  Superb 
Setting  for  a  House,  19;  Prop- 
erty of  One  Acre,  39;  Ungain- 
ly, 40;  Neglected,  40;  Good 
Planting,  47;  Effective  Mixed 
Planting,  53;  Garden  Scene  in 
Suromer,  54;  Garden  View  of 
Flower  Favorites,  102;  Flower 
Garden  Surrounded  by  Arches 
of  Roses,  62;  An  Early  Sum- 
mer Scene 101 

Hotbed  Frame,  Section  of 327 

Hotbed,  Plan  for  Planting  a. .    .331 

House  Front,  Locating  the 16 

Insect  Pests,  46 ;  Named  Species 

293-308 
Iris:  Bed  of,  118;  Typical  Bloom 
of    German,    119;    Japanese, 
Colonized,         120;         Border 

Backed  with  Shrubs 121 

Larkspur 95 

Lattice  Screen 36 

Lattice  Work  Fence 36 

Lattice  Work,  Green 168 

Lawn  View,  34;  Effective  Dis- 
position of 37 

Layout  of  a  Backyard  Garden, 

14;  of  a  Suburban  Lot 15 

Lilies,  Auratum 123 

Mole  Traps 366 

Morning  Glories — Hedge  of 98 

Mouse  Trap 365 

Narcissus — Glory  of  Leiden,  141 ; 

Poeticus,  Naturalized 146 

Oak,  Pin,  in  all  its  Beauty 43 

Pansies,  Bed  of 126 

Perennials,  Borders  of  Attractive 
Color  Combinations 86,  87 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


Peony:  Mons.  Jules  Elie,  128; 
Massed  Bed  of,  129;  Types  of, 
131;  Rack  for  Supporting.  ...  132 

Pergola,  Rustic  Frame 65 

Petunia,  Single 127 

Phlox,  Bed  of 132 

Pinks,  Hardy 134 

Planting  Plans:  For  Shady  Out- 
look, 17;  A  (for  two  adjoining 
houses),  21;  B,  C,  (for  prop- 
erty 50x100),  23,  25;  D  (for 
property  50x150),  27;  E  (for 
property  75x150),  29;  F  (for 
property  190  ft.  sq.),  31;  G 
(for  property  of  two  acres) .  .   33 

Plane,  Oriental 44 

Propagation:  Currant  Cuttings, 
268;  Chrysanthemum  Cut- 
tings, 268;  Dahlia  Roots,  269; 
Artichoke,  260;  Soft  Wood 
Cuttings,  273;  Cleft  Grafting, 
274;  Whip  Graftings,  275; 
Roses,  Budding  of,  276; 
Gooseberries,  Layering  of, 
277;    Woody    or    Half -woody 

Plant  Layering 277 

Pruning:  Dwarf  Rose,  260; 
Shrubs,  261;  Young  Trees, 
263;  Limb  of  Tree,  263;  Rasp- 
berry Canes 266 

Raspberry  Canes,  Pruning 266 

Rock  Gardens:  Views  of,  156; 
159;  Diagram  Showing  Pre- 
paratory Stages 158 

Roses:  Diagraims  Showing  Plant- 
ing Plans  for  Beds  of  Hybrid 
Teas  and  Hybrid  Perpetuals, 
63;  Arbor,  64;  Summer  House, 
Covered  with  Roses,  70 ;  Roses 
Massed  Around  Sundial,  73; 
Depth  to  Plant,  50;  Differ- 
ence between  True  and  False 
Stock,  66;  Where  to  Cut  to 
Obtain  More  Flowers,  67;  Bed 
of,  68;  Arches  of,  137;  Prun- 
ing  ;260 


Rustic  Furniture 161-166 

Screen  for  Side  or  Back  of  House  69 

Shrubs,  Pruning 261 

Spiraea  Van  Houttei 51 

Spruce,  Colorado  Blue 46 

Storage  Cellar,  The  Home  Food 

Winter 219 

Strawberries,  Good  Sized 241 

Sweet    Peas:       Spike    of,    136; 

Trellises  for 137 

Tools  for  Garden 334-338 

Transplanting  Box  for  Seedlings.  176 
Tree  Planting:   Wrong  Method, 

49;  Correct  Method 49 

Tritoma 139 

Tulips,  Bouton  d'Or 148 

Vegetables:  Bean,  186;  Beet, 
188;  Cabbage,  189;  Carrots, 
191;  Cauliflower,  191;  Celery 
Plants,  192;  Cucumber,  196; 
Egg  Plant,  197;  Kohl-Rabi, 
198;  Lettuce,  199;Muskmelon, 
200;  Onions,  201;  Parsnip, 
202;  Green  Peas,  203;  Pota- 
toes, 204,  205;  Radish,  206; 
Squash,  210;  Swiss  Chard, 
211;  Tomatoes  Trained  to  a 
Fence,  212;  Supporting  Rack, 

114;  Net,  204;  Turnips 213 

Vegetables,     Fresh    throughout 

the  Year 343 

Vegetable  Garden:  An  Ama- 
teur's, 173;  On  a  Suburban 
Lot,  175;  Views  in,  179,  182; 
Working  Plans  for  Model, 
187,  190,  195,  208,  209; 
Handy   Device   for   Marking 

off  Rows 193 

Vegetable  Planting  Table.  .344,  345 

Water  IJly,  Pond  of 154 

Waterside  Plantings 151,  152 

Window  Box,  167,  168,  170,  171; 
Concrete,  169;  Self- Water- 
ing  172 

Winter  Protection 288,  289 


The  illustrations  are  on  as  generous  a  scale  as  the  text  matter.  It  was 
planned  to  illustrate  freely  every  discussion  in  which  a  picture  could  assist 
the  reader  in  arriving  at  a  quick  understanding  of  the  subject. 


PUBLISHERS'  FOREWORD 


BOOK  must  bear  a  title,  a  distinguishing  name,  and 
so  here  we  have  the  Garden  GumE,  a  Handbook  for 
the  Amateur  Gardener.  Its  scope  will  be  unfolded 
in  the  Introduction  of  its  editors  and  compilers. 
The  publishers,  however,  ask  a  fu'st  hearing.  The 
conception  of  the  book  was  not  at  all  limited  to  the 
purpose  indicated  by  its  title.  It  had  a  higher  aim. 
Through  its  medium  we  hope  to  win  thousands  from 
crowded  city  homes  to  the  free  air  of  the  open  country. 
We  seek  to  preach  freedom  from  the  very  housetops, 
to  induce  worthy  citizens  to  cultivate  their  health  as  well  as  their 
gardens  and,  in  so  doing,  add  to  their  happiness  and  the  years  of  their 
lives,  to  do  their  duty  by  their  children  through  environing  their 
young  lives  with  the  surroundings  which  will  make  them  sturdy,  self- 
reliant  and  observant,  and  best  fit  them  for  their  own  battle  of  life. 
Fundamentally,  there  is  no  excuse  for  weaklings  among  those  raised 
in  the  country  and  the  out-of-doors. 

The  country  (and  in  this  term  may  be  included  practically  all  our 
suburban  towns,  boroughs  and  villages)  is  the  children's  paradise, 
with  all  Nature's  world  as  their  playground. 

The  hygienic  value  of  fresh  vegetables  and  fruits  is  beyond  ques- 
tion; their  value  to  the  family  cannot  be  estimated  in  terms  of  money. 
The  writer  knows  this  and  thousands  of  fortunate  suburbanites  will 
testify  to  its  truth.  A  good  garden  is  Nature's  antidote  for  all  ills 
flesh  is  heir  to;  it  certainly  does  not  make  for  a  source  of  revenue  to 
the  physician.  Fresh  fruits  and  vegetables,  each  in  their  season, 
taken  from  your  garden,  are  something  quite  different  from  the  much 
handled  and  frequently  stale  products  one  buys  in  the  city.  Nearly 
every  vegetable  is  an  annual  and  can  be  grown  with  the  first  year's 
occupancy,  the  second  Summer  the  taste  for  all  the  small  fruits  can  be 
indulged  in  to  the  full  and  almost  before  you  realize  it  the  young  fruit 
trees  you  set  out  are  in  bearing. 

The  Cliff  Apartment  dweller,  whose  vision  is  bounded  on  all 
sides  by  straight  hues  of  brick  and  mortar,  cement  and  stone,  whose 
life  is  harried  by  the  janitor,  whose  quietude  is  distrubed  by  the 
noises  overhead  and  below,  who  cannot  enjoy  a  night's  sleep  in  the 
open  without  fear  of  arrest,  whose  movements  to  and  from  business 
are  made  miserable  in  trolley,  subway  or  "L,"  must  surely  envy  the 
commuter,  even  though  the  latter  be  still  made  the  butt  of  the  irre- 
pressible joker,  whom  we  pardon  because,  poor  man,  he  knows  no 
better. 

Advocacy  of  social  advantages  has  no  particular  part  in  this 
presentation,  yet  these  features  have  more  play  in  country  than  in 
3 


FOREWORD  9 

towns,  for  the  acquaintances  made  by  your  children  in  the  former 
will  be  more  permanent  and  have  a  larger  bearing  on  their  future  be- 
cause they  are  more  intimately  brought  together  in  their  school,  their 
play  and  their  daily  association. 

Suburban  public  schools  are  governed  to  a  great  extent  by  men 
who  have  come  out  from  the  cities.  Their  advantages  are  equal  to 
those  of  the  city,  perhaps  superior,  because  the  classes  average  smaller; 
high  schools  abound,  and  the  education  of  the  youth  up  to  the  age  of 
seventeen  or  eighteen  can  thus  be  obtained  near  home. 

Life  in  the  suburbs  opens  the  way  to  a  family  home — one's  very 
own,  eliminating  forever  the  yearly  move.  Don't  pay  rent — own  your 
home  so  you  can  do  with  it  as  you  please.  Permanence  of  location  is 
helpful  to  well-being,  so  then  make  a  careful  selection.  Take  time 
to  make  an  intelligent  choice  and,  where  you  settle,  make  the  best  of 
it — stick.  If  you  have  the  funds  to  pay  for  the  home  outright  you  are 
among  the  fortunate  ones,  otherwise  the  local  building  and  loan  asso- 
ciation will  take  care  of  you  at  no  greater  outlay  than  rent  if  you 
own  the  ground  and  are  considered  a  good  moral  risk.  Inside  of  eleven 
years  the  home  is  yours  and  the  money  which  would  otherwise  have 
gone  to  a  generally  indifferent  landlord  may  be  applied  to  betterments, 
to  education  or  to  the  purchase  of  more  land. 

Whether  it  is  better  to  buy  than  to  build  depends  on  circum- 
stances.    Painstaking  investigation  is  always  in  order. 

The  family  home,  the  home  for  your  children  and  quite  likely  for 
some  of  your  children's  children,  the  home  wherein  the  family  tradi- 
tions will  Hnger,  surely  that  is  the  home  that's  wanted — the  home  to 
which  your  children  may  return,  and  the  recollection  of  which  will 
brighten  the  toilsome  days  they  may  be  forced  to  spend  away  from  it. 
The  family  home  is  the  wisest  of  all  investments;  it  is  the  foundation 
which  makes  for  family  honor  and  stability.  Pedigree  adds  to  the 
stabihty  of  our  country  and  its  institutions,  and  the  family  home  is  the 
source  and  foundation  of  true  patriotism. 

There  is  no  Springtime  in  the  city,  no  Autumn.  Among  the 
bricks  and  stone  the  unfolding  glories  of  Spring  are  unknown  to  the 
toiler  and  his  family.  The  city  is  equally  unresponsive  to  the  awaken- 
ing life  of  the  one  as  it  is  to  the  passing  glories  of  the  other.  A  city 
knows  but  two  seasons,  Sununer  and  Winter;  the  reviving  Spring  and 
glorious  Autumn  are  both  imknown. 

Do  not  let  it  be  said  of  you:  "The  city  was  his  country;  he  loved 
better  to  hear  the  trolley  car  rattle  than  the  birds  carol."  The  city 
may  be  a  good  place  to  work  in;  it  imdoubtedly  is;  but  if  all  our  homes 
couM  be  in  the  freedom  of  the  country  we  would  be  a  superior  race. 

A.  T.  D. 


INTRODUCTION  TO  FIRST  EDITION 

'E  all  have  our  dream  gardens  in  which  stretches  of  smooth 
lawns  appear,  with  hedges  of  sweet  smelhng  shrubs  like 
Brier  Roses,  Lavender,  Rosemary,  or  of  neat  leaved 
Box,  such  as  one  sees  at  the  old  home  of  George  Wash- 
ington at  Mt.  Vernon.  We  have  our  scenes  of  Rose  beds 
encircled  by  grass  or  sand  covered  paths,  with  a  little 
fomitain  and  bird  bath  nearby,  a  cozy  arbor  or  rest  house  off  to  one 
side,  borders  filled  opulently  with  a  variety  of  old  time  hardy  flowers, 
fragrant  with  memories  of  other  days.  Here  and  there  a  fruit  tree 
stands  laden  with  the  promise  of  luscious  fruits,  and  all  around  is  the 
busy  hum  of  insect  Ufe,  with  the  flutter  of  birds  and  butterflies,  and 
the  throbbing  of  a  hundred  creations  from  the  great  storehouse  of  Na- 
ture, that  make  a  garden  more  than  a  dreamland,  but  certainly  a  place 
of  great  refreshing  rest,  recuperation,  peace,  happy  thoughts.  It  is 
the  place  to  commune  with  friends,  either. in  bodily  presence  or  in 
books.  It  is  a  place  in  which  to  plan,  to  read,  to  rest,  to  work,  to 
play.  Back  of  all  there  is  the  utilitarian  kitchen  garden,  the  drying 
yard,  the  chicken  run,  the  place  for  the  household  pets,  the  children's 
swing  and  sand  heap,  and  the  other  happy  features  and  adjuncts  that 
make  the  house  and  garden  our  home. 

We  beheve  that  one  chief  reason  for  the  paucity  of  good  and  bright 
gardens  is  the  lack  of  knowing  how  to  set  about  making  them.  Gar- 
dening is  a  very  large  subject.  It  has  formed  the  study  and  recreation 
of  the  leisure  moments  of  many  eminent  men  from  the  time  of  Solomon, 
Homer,  Aristotle,  Plato  and  others  of  the  ancients,  to  Erasmus  and 
Bacon  of  the  Renaissance,  Evelyn  of  the  seventeenth  century,  to  the 
more  modern  notabilities,  as  Pope,  Walpole,  Cowper,  Goethe,  Cobbett, 
our  own  Nathaniel  Hawthorne  and  Thoreau,  with  many,  many  others. 
The  amateur  gardener  is  therefore  in  excellent  company  of  the  present 
as  well  as  of  all  past  times.  Gardening  is  pleasurable,  healthful, 
intellectual. 

We  should  not  forget  the  purely  economical  side  of  the  matter 
that  has  been  dwelt  upon  in  the  publishers'  foreword.  But  this 
Garden  Guide  is  not  intended  exactly  to  be  a  mentor  on  making 
money  or  saving  money.  You  are  willing  to  pay  for  your  household 
goods  and  embellishments,  your  automobile,  your  camera  and  sporting 
outfits,  your  concerts  and  theatres.  Expect  to  pay,  therefore,  for  your 
gardening;  yet  we  can  assure  the  amateur  that  well-considered  expen- 
diture on  the  garden  more  than  pays  for  itself.  You  can  have  delicious 
edible  Asparagus  on  your  table  day  in,  day  out  for  weeks  in  the  early 
part  of  the  year.  You  can  have  salads  and  young  vegetables  from 
April  until  November.  Then  there  are  the  flowers  and  fruits  over  and 
above,  and  other  assets  of  and  from  the  garden  that  are  too  apparent 
to  need  to  be  mentioned. 

.     10 


INTRODUCTION  11 

The  plan  of  this  book  is  sufficiently  set  forth  in  the  table  of  con- 
tents, and  we  therefore  offer  this  Guide  confident  in  the  belief  that  it 
will  be  found  an  excellent  introduction  to  what  is  unequivocally  one 
of  the  most  delightful  recreations  that  man  can  pursue. 

Presenting  Our  Fourth  and  Perfected  Edition 
A  quiet  editor,  upon  being  told  that  he  ought  to  be  the  best  Judge 
of  the  merit  of  something  he  had  written  is  said  to  have  replied,  in 
effect:  "Not  so;  did  you  never  realize  that  it  is  only  the  silkworm 
itself  that  can  never  know  what  the  coccoon  that  it  has  made  looks 
like."  For  this  reason  we  would  be  less  confident  of  our  judgment 
and  optimism  concerning  the  practical  value  of  the  Garden  Guide 
were  they  not  reinforced  by  the  sentiments  and  actions  of  the  public 
that  has  absorbed  the  three  large  editions  which  have  preceded  the 
present  printing.  As  it  is,  the  continued  demand,  the  undiminished 
interest,  the  cordial  commendation,  tell  us  that  the  appreciation  of 
gardening  in  America  is  constantly  growing  and  that  our  efforts  are 
truly  fining  the  need  for  a  compact,  comprehensive,  usable  Garden 
Manual. 

These  efforts,  however,  are  not  the  result  of  a  hasty  decision,  a 
sketchy  survey  of  the  ground,  but  of  a  quarter  century  of  actual  gar- 
dening experience,  of  contact  with  garden  lovers,  of  observation  of  their 
activities,  and  of  a  study  of  their  needs.  We  set  out  to  provide  those 
facts  that  we  know  they  are  in  search  of,  in  the  form  and  language  in 
which  they  can  grasp  and  use  them.  We  have  written,  compiled, 
eliminated  and  augmented,  not  for  effect,  but  for  service,  out  of  a 
personal  knowledge,  sympathy  and  enthusiasm  that  binds  all  garden 
lovers  together  into  one  great  family. 

In  the  present  edition  the  changes,  aside  from  minor  improve- 
ments in  arrangement,  type  styles,  etc.,  designed  to  make  the  book 
more  convenient  and  pleasing  to  the  eye,  have  been  mainly  additions 
of  new  and  valuable  features.  We  call  attention  particularly  to  the 
chapter  on  Common  Diseases  of  Garden  Plants  and  Their  Control, 
compiled  by  two  representative  plant  pathologists  of  the  country, 
men  who  stand  with  the  highest.  Among  other  new  features  covered 
may  be  mentioned  the  Canning  of  Fruits  and  Vegetables,  Trans- 
planting, The  Vegetable  Garden  in  Winter,  Lawn  and  Garden  Weeds, 
Facts  about  Frost,  Bungalow  or  Mid-Summer  Gardening,  Animal 
Life  in  the  Garden,  Fertilizer  Facts,  etc.  Needless  to  say,  all  data 
and  suggestions  have  been  checked  uj),  verified  and,  where  necessary, 
revised  in  accordance  with  up-to-date  conditions  and  the  most  suc- 
cessful modern  principles.  ,^j^|^   Li'i^iMr 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


D.  H.  HIU  LIBRARY 
North  Carolina  State  College 


CHAPTER  1 


Planning  the  Home  Grounds 

First  Considerations  in  the  Composition  of  a  Garden — Drives — 

Lawns — Locating  the  Dwelling  House — Treatment  of  the  Shrubs, 

Belts,   Borders,   Beds — A  Plea  for   Greater   Seclusion — Home 

Planting    Plans    and    Keys    thereto 

IF  one's  place  is  but  a  small  area  of  so  many  dozen  square  yards, 
it  is  great  fun  to  do  one's  own  planning,  and  little  can  go  wrong. 

Should  the  place  be  more  pretentious,  running  to  one  or  two 
acres,  it  might  be  money  in  one's  pocket  to  consult  a  landscape  gar- 
dener, or  an  experienced  nurseryman  or  designer.  There  are  several 
excellent  books,  too,  that  can  be  referred  to,  and  from  which  valuable 
information  can  be  got  on  the  laying  out  of  home  grounds.  One 
of  these  is  "Gridland's  Practical  Landscape  Gardening." 

The  first  considerations  in  the  composition  of  a  garden  or  the 
grounds  about  one's  place  are  Privacy,  Variety,  Shelter,  Balance. 

The  planning  and  arrangement  of  the  features  of  a  garden  or  of 
the  grounds  about  the  house  should  be  as  carefully  considered  as  the 
choice  and  placing  of  the  furniture  in  one's  home,  or  the  choosing  of  a 
suit  of  clothes,  or  a  dress  to  wear.  The  same  idea  holds,  namely,  the 
planning  of  a  suitable,  agreeable,  comfortable  composition.  The 
garden  has  been  called  the  outdoor  drawing-room. 

The  arrangement  of  the  drives  and  the  grading  of  the  lawns,  the 
drainage  when  necessary,  and  the  arrangement  of  the  buildings  and 
outhouses  should  all  be  preconceived  and  settled  in  an  orderly,  econom- 
ical manner.  As  far  as  possible  there  should  be  no  mistake  about  the 
main,  permanent  features.  The  minor  features  may  be  changed  quite 
a  great  deal  in  the  coming  years  and  almost  surely  will,  as  new  ideas 
and  points  of  view  assert  themselves.  This  changing  of  the  minor 
features  is  a  part  of  the  recreation  of  gardening.  Thus  one  may 
considerably  alter  the  contour  of  a  shrubbery  border,  or  may  indeed 
ehminate  it  altogether.  The  same  holds  good  of  flower  beds  and 
borders,  which  are  easily  altered,  removed  or  added  to;  but  with  large 
trees  or  the  heavier  groups  of  shrubs  the  expense  of  removal  and 
shifting  prohibits  this  being  done  except  out  of  dire  necessity. 

Where  one  has  the  choice  of  building  one's  house  or  choosing  its 
location,  the  best  aspect  for  it  is  where  the  front  porch  faces  southeast, 
as  shown  in  the  diagrams  pps.  16  and  17;  another  good  position  is  facing 
due  south.  In  any  case,  as  everybody  Hkes  abundant  sunshine  or 
ought  to,  see  to  it  that  the  windows  and  living  rooms  face  in  the  direc- 
tion of  abundant  light.  Those  places  that  are  hidden  beneath  a  dense 
canopy  or  half  a  forest  of  trees  may  suit,  and  do  suit,  some  folks,  but 

13 


14 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Actual  layout  of  a  backyard  gar- 
den fenced,  on  lot  30x100  ft.  Stand- 
ard Apple,  Plum  and  Pear  trees 
were  planted  around  the  divisional 
fences.  They  did  not  unduly 
shade  the  hardy  flowers.  The 
smooth  gravel  path  terminated 
in  an  arbor  over  which  Roses,  Ivy 
and  Clematis  grew.  -  Rhododen-' 
drons,  evergreens,  hardy  Heathr, 
Viburnums,  etc.,  with  bulbs  be- 
tween, were  used  on  the  right 
hand  border.  There  was  a  sun 
parlor  at  the  back  of  the  house.' 
The      garden  .   lay      due  _  south 


they  are  terribly  depressing  to  the 
great  majority  of  us,  besides  being, 
one  should  imagine,  not  conducive 
to  health.  Light,  air,  and  freedom, 
are  good  watchwords  for  the  builder 
and  planner. 

Character  can  be  given  to  an 
entrance  by  simply  having  two 
ornamental  pillars  built  there,  with 
possibly  an  iron  arch  over  them. 
If  this  is  planted  with  creeping  vines 
and  is  supported  at  the  sides  with 
groups  of  evergreens,  it  adds  wonder- 
ful dignity  and  seeming  value  to  the 
property. 

While  winding  paths  or  drives 
are  graceful,  they  should  not  be 
made  meaninglessly,  but  are  in  order 
where  the  ground  slopes  a  little  or 
dips,  or  where  irregularity  exists. 
Certainly  these  can  always  be  added 
or  made  in  order  to  get  the  curved 
line.  Even  in  small  places,  as  our 
plans  show,  the  swinging  line  of 
beauty  can  be  had.  Straight  paths 
may,  however,  be  more  convenient, 
and  can  still  be  tasteful  and  harmo- 
nious.    They  are  undoubtedly  neat. 

No  book  can  tell  the  reader  ex- 
actly what  may  be  the  best  arrange- 
ment for  his  garden  or  property. 
Every  garden  should  have  a  character 
of  its  own,  and  generally  does,  unless 
in  the  case  of  the  very  smallest, 
where  nearly  all  opportunity  for 
variety  is  extinguished;  yet  it  is  re- 
markable what  can  be  done  on  a 
quarter  or  an  eighth  of  an  acre. 
"^  We  have  often  seen  plots  of  30  ft.  x 
100  ft.  laid  out  with  much  variety 
and  taste,  and  which  were  full  of 
interest.  In  those  towns  and  cities 
'    of  our  own  country,  and  in  the  old 


PLANNING  THE  HOME  GROUNDS 


15 


countries  where  the  inhabitants, 
abnost  to  a  man,  appreciate  the  ele- 
gancies of  gardening,  the  little  places 
exhibit  the  utmost  variety  of  charac- 
ter in  their  composition. 

It  is  all  too  true  that  thousands 
of  gardens  and  grounds  all  around 
our  American  homes  are  bare  to  des- 
olation. The  democratic  idea  and 
feeling  against  planting  of  hedges 
and  the  lining  off  of  one's  property 
makes  for  deadly  uniformity.  The 
arguments  that  unhedged  or  un- 
fenced  grounds  would  be  contrary  to 
the  best  artistic  conception  and  treat- 
ment of  a  city  or  suburb  as  a  whole, 
ought  not  to  be  allowed  to  sway  the 
property  owner  from  making  the 
most  and  the  best  of  his  own  place. 
There  is  a  school  of  landscape  gar- 
deners and  city  planners  who  seem 
to  set  their  face  against  this,  en- 
couraging the  open  community  type 
of  home  grounds.  The  latter  will 
never  get  us  anywhere  as  a  nation  of 
garden  lovers,  and  almost  entirely 
precludes  the  practice  of  the  finer 
gardening.  We  plead  rather  to  see 
places  nicely  hedged  or  railed  off,  so 
that  stray  dogs  and  uncerepionious 
persons  may  be  kept  at  a  proper 
distance,  but  most  of  all  for  the  sake 
of  the  enjoyment  and  encourage- 
ment of  that  quiet  privacy  without 
which  the  true  pleasures  of  garden- 
ing cannot  be  attained. 

Which  is  the  best — to  have  a 
big,  bare  lawn  and  a  few  trees,  or  an 
odd  group  of  shrubs  here  and  there, 
or  the  trimly  hedged  and  fenced 
grounds,  with  flower  borders,  speci- 
men trees  and  shrubs,  beds  and 
belts  of  Roses,  arches  of  Roses  and 


CHICKEN 
HOU6E 


LAWN 


I*-*-  •-  ■ 


D  Q  n 

O     O     O     0 


Suburban  lot  fenced,  on  40x100  ft. 
A  low  hedge  divided  off  the  vege- 
table garden.  Fruit  trees  and 
bushes  were  lined  by  the  side  of 
this,  while  pillar  Roses,  dwarf 
Roses,  neat  shrubs  and  beds  of 
flowers  were  elsewhere  well  dis- 
posed. The  vegetable  plot  was  a 
model  of  good  cropping,  contain- 
ing Tomatoes,  Corn,  Beans,  Beets, 
Celery,  Carrots,  Spinach,  herbs 
and  salads.  Raspberries  lined  the 
fences.     This  ran  east  and  west 


From  Cridland's 

Practical  Landscape 

Gardening 


PLANNING  THE  HOME  GROUNDS 


17 


other  climbers,  water  basins,  an  arbor  or  Rose  house  where  tea  or  ice- 
cream may  be  partaken  in  the  sunny  Summer  days,  or  where  in 


Fig.  a  — Planting  plan  to  insure  best 
effect  of  shade,  outlook,  protection,  and 
privacy  on  a  lot  facing  north 


Fig.  B  .  — Planting  plan  to  insure  best 
effect  of  shade,  outlook,  protection, 
and  privacy  on  a  lot  facing  south 


Fig.  C  — Planting  plan  to  insure  best 
effect  of  shade,  outlook,  protection 
and  privacy  on  a  lot  facing  east 


Fig,  D  —Planting  plan  to  insure  best 
effect  of  shade,  outlook,  protection 
and  privacy  on  a  lot  facing  west 


Reproduced  from  Cornell  Bulletin  361 


18 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Haven't  you  seen  many  working  men's  houses  just 
like  this — gaunt  and  bare,  no  neat  hedges,  no  neat 
lawns,  not  even  a  Geranium  or  a  Canna  in  sight? 


some  shady  corner  we 
can  enjoy  a  siesta  or 
a  book  in  the  open 
air? 

The  fact  is  we  do 
not  make  half  enough 
use  of  the  grounds 
about  our  homes; 
they  are  left  blank  in 
most  instances.  We 
warmly  urge  the 
planting  of  Ught 
screen  belts  of  trees 
and  hedges  around 
the  property,  which 
need  not  be  so  dense  as  to  prevent  a  neighbor  or  passerby  from 
enjoying  glimpses  of  yom*  garden.  Kegel's  Privet,  Cahfornia  broad- 
leaved  Privet,  Golden  Privet,  Hemlock,  Arbor  Vitae,  Austrian  Pine, 
White  Pine,  Norway  Spruce,  Rambler  Roses,  Ivy,  Ampelopsis,  Plane 
trees,  Berberis  Thimbergii,  are  among  the  easily  grown  subjects  that 
are  useful  in  such  screen  belts,  and  most  of  which  can  be  increased  on 
one's  own  place  at  httle  expense  if  the  suggestions  given  in  another 
part  of  this  book  are  carried  out. 

The  initial  expense  of  planting  the  outer  parts  and  main  features 
of  the  grounds  or  garden  need  not  be  large.  By  the  exercise  of  a  httle 
patience  one  can  grow-on  a  good  many  things  for  future  develop- 
ments. Poplars  should  only  be  used  sparingly.  They  grow  fast,  it 
is  true,  and  for  that  reason  are  often  employed,  and  in  some  places 
are  elegant  and  pleasant  enough,  but  generally  they  are  "messy," 
losing  their  leaves  early,  and  their  roots  often  choke  up  drains.  The 
almost  constant  rustling  of  their  leaves  and  other  aspects  of  the  trees 
are  disagreeable  to  many  people. 

Make  provision  for  a  good  space  of  lawn,  and  treat  the  lawn  well. 
Water  in  motion,  as  in  fountains,  is  often  desirable  but  is  a  secondary 
consideration,  just  as  the  number  and  amount  of  flower  beds  or  borders 
is,  as  also  the  introduction  of  rock  gardens,  arbors  and  such  like.  The 
thing  of  prime  importance  is  to  have  the  main  features  properly 
planned  at  the  outset — the  garage,  the  barn,  the  poultry  run,  the 
kitchen  or  vegetable  garden,  and  the  other  parts  of  the  place  such  as 
have  been  already  spoken  of,  also  the  grading  and  terracing  (if  any), 
are  among  the  first  matters  that  require  attention.  Minor  undulations 
or  changes  of  the  surface  can  be  left  for  a  future  day.  It  is  not,  we 
repeat,  necessary  to  have  a  cut  and  dried  plan  from  the  beginning; 


PLANNING  THE  HOME  GROUNDS  19 

far  better  let  it  grow  with  your  knowledge  of  the  place.  What  may  be 
called  the  adventitious,  luxurious  or  additional  features  will,  practi- 
cally speaking,  take  care  of  themselves.  You  will  gradually  come  to 
find  out  the  most  appropriate  spot  for  this  or  that.  Do  not  be  in  a 
hurry;  allow  the  place  to  grow  up.  It  will  suit  your  pocket  better  and 
furnish  endless  recreation  and  pleasure.  It  will  keep  your  mind  happy 
and  active.  You  will  be  interested  and  learning  all  the  while.  This  is 
true  gardening,  and  the  meaning  and  the  reward  of  gardening  and 
garden  making. 

Some  pains  should  be  taken  to  have  clean,  well-made  paths. 
Take  out  6  in.  or  8  in.  of  soil  and  fill  with  clinkers,  rough  ashes  or  stones, 
finishing  off  with  smaller  stones,  bound  or  rolled  in  with  a  little  soil. 
For  a  strong,  permanent  road,  concrete  may  be  employed.  If*a  cement 
surface  is  objected  to,  gravel  can  be  strewn  over  before  the  cement 
sets,  and  be  rolled  in.  Grass  paths  are  comfortable  and  beautiful. 
Brick  is  also  good.  It  is  well  also  to  have  a  tile  or  slate  or  wooden  edg- 
ing to  the  paths,  as  this  makes  for  neatness  and  easy  up-keep. 

You  will  find  that  by  walking  around  your  district  or  other  dis- 
tricts, your  walks  are  as  a  book;  at  every  turn  you  will  gain  some 
experiences  or  suggestions  that  may  be  modified  or  adopted  with 
profit  on  your  own  grounds. 

Lastly,  there  is  no  place  so  unpromising  that  it  cannot,  by  dint 
of  knowledge,  skill,  elfort  and  some  small  financial  expenditure,  be 
made  a  beautiful  or  trimly  garden. 


Is  this  not  a  superb  setting  for  a  home  ? 


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PLANTING  PLAN 


21 


PLANTING  PLAN  "A 

On  this  plan,  representing  a 
width  of  80  ft.  by  a  depth  of 
200  ft.  stand  two  semi-detached 
houses. 

The  entire  boundary  is  arranged 
in  plantations  of  shrubbery  and  are 
of  such  varieties  as  will  give  a  se- 
quence of  bloom  from  early  Spring 
until  late  Fall,  followed  by  a  little 
interest  of  color  in  the  berry  bear- 
ing plants,  such  as  the  Barberry, 
Coral  Berry,  Snowberry  and 
Cotoneaster. 

The  perennials  are  placed  along 
the  base  of  the  house,  and  the 
varieties  suggested,  while  limited, 
will  provide  a  goodly  quantity  of 
cut  flowers  for  table  decoration. 

The  front  lawns  may  be  treated 
as  one  lawn  to  advantage  by  omit- 
ting numbers  21  and  29,  while  the 
rear,  for  reasons  of  privacy,  is 
better  enclosed  by  the  shrub 
borders. 

A  small  vegetable  garden  is 
placed  at  the  rear,  separated  by  a 
hedge,  which  will  also  form  a  back- 
ground to  the  plantations  in  front 
of  it. 

Between  the  rear  lawn  and  the 
vegetable  garden  a  small  arbor  is 
suggested  in  which  seats  may  be 
placed  at  the  sides. 

Either  climbing  Roses,  Clematis 
or  annual  vines  should  be  planted 
as  the  decoration  for  the  arbor. 

For  laundry  purposes  a  movable 
drier  is  indicated  in  the  center  of 
the  grass  plot.  This  is  easily  put  up 
and  taken  down  as  occasion  may 
require,  and  is  infinitely  better 
than  the  unsightly  posts. 


Planting  Plan  herewith  and  Planting 
Key  thereto  on  opposite  page,  are  re- 
produced from  Cridland's  PRACTI- 
CAL LANDSCAPE  GARDENING, 
the  most  complete  textbook  on  the 
subject  ever  published  at  the  price. 
We  will  forward  this  book  on  appli- 
cation for  $2.15,  postpaid. 


FOR  TWO  HOUSES  ADJOINING 


22 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


KEY  TO   PLAN  "  B  "  OPPOSITE 


Key 

No.  Quan. 

3 

4 

S 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

II 

12 

13 

14 

IS 

l6 

17 

l8 

19 

20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

25 

26 

27 

28 

29 

30 

31 

32 

33 

6 

34 

5 

35 

3 

36 

4 

37 

5 

38 

15 

39 

8 

40 

15 

41 

6 

42 

II 

43 

5 

44 

6 

45 

6 

46 

IS 

47 

8 

48 

10 

49 

6 

SO 

10 

SI 

10 

52 

6 

S3 

15 

54 

12 

55 

8 

S6 

5 

563^ 

4 

57 

5 

58 

6 

59 

10 

60 

IS 

61 

10 

62 

7 

63 

6 

64 

6 

65 

5 

Variety 
Hybrid  Tea  Roses 

(  Crataegus,  Double  white  Crataegus,  alba 
1  plena  Double  red,  Paul's  Scarlet 

Salisburia  adiantifolia 
Abelia  grandiflora 
Buddleia  Veitchiana 
Bocconia  cordata 
Delphinium  hybridum 
Phlox  Mrs.  Jenkins 
Phlox  Elizabeth  Campbell 
Paeonia  Festiva  Maxima 
Spiraea  Van  Houttei 
Abelia  grandiflora 
Mahonia  aquifolia 
Aucuba  japonica 
Cotoneaster  Simonsii 
Mahonia  japonica 
Juniperus  hibernica 
Retinispora  obtusa 
Thuyopsis  dolobrata 
Retinispora  squarrosa  Veitchii 
Acer  saccharum 
Cotoneaster  Simonsii 
Mahonia  japonica 
Aucuba  japonica 
Abelia  grandiflora 
Mahonia  aquifolia 
Berberis  Thunbergii 
Deutzia  gracilis 
Spiraea  Anthony  Waterer 
Spiraea  callosa  alba 
Amygdalus  fl.  pi.  rubra 
Coryopteris  Mastacanthus 
Buddleia  magnifica 
Hydrangea  arborescens  grandiflora 
Thalictrum  dipterocarpum 
Aconitum  Park's  hybrids 
Anemone  Queen  Charlotte 
Iris  Kaempferi 
Stokesia  cyanea 
Iris  Queen  of  May 
Paeonia  Jean  d'Arc 
Platycodon  Mariesii 
Phlox  Struthers 
Pentstemon  barbatus 
Iris  King  of  Iris 
Phlox  Mrs.  Jenkins 
Funkia  lancifolia 
Chrysanthemum  Henry  Sesquier 
Paeonia  Charlemagne's 
Campanula  calycanthema 
Chrysanthemum  Jardin  des  Plantes 
Paeonia  lutea  variegata 
Iris  Kaempferi 
Platycodon  Mariesii 
Stokesia  cyanea 
Aquilegia  caerulea 
Aconitum,  Park's  variety 
Anemone  Queen  Charlotte 
Paeonia  Festiva  Maxima 
Chrysanthemum  Jardin  des  Plantes 
Phlox  Elizabeth  Campbell 
Campanula  Jatifolia  macrantha 
Paeonia  Cytharee 
Iris  pallida  dalmatica 
Pentstemon  barbatus 
Phlox  Miss  Lingard 


Common  Name 


Hawthorn 

Maidenhair  Tree 

Hybrid  Abelia 

Butterfly  shrub 

Plume  Poppy 

Larkspur 

White  Phlox 

Pink  Phlox 

White  Peony 

Van  Houtte's  Spiraea 

Hybrid  Abelia 

Oregon  Grape 

Japanese  Laurel 

Shiny  leaved  Cotoneaster 

Japanese  Evergreen  Barberry 

Irish  Juniper 

Japanese  Cypress 

Japanese  Blue  Cypress 

Sugar  Maple 

Shiny  leaved  Cotoneaster 

Japanese  Evergreen  Barberry 

Japanese  Laurel 

Hybrid  Abelia 

Oregon  Grape 

Japanese  Barberry 

Dwarf  Deutzia 

Pink  Spiraea 

Dwarf  white  Spiraea 

Flowering  Almond 

Verbena  Shrub 

Butterfly  Shrub 

Large  flowered  Hydrangea 

Meadow  Rue 

Monkshood 

Windflower 

Japanese  Flag 

Stokes'  Aster 

Flag 

Rose  Colored  Peony 

Chinese  Bell  Flower 

Cherry  Red  Phlox 

Beard  Tongue 

Yellow  Flag 

White  Phlox 

Plantain  Lily 

Violet  Rose  Shades 

White  Peony 

Bell  Flower 

White  Chrysanthemum 

Pink  Peony 

Japanese  Flag 

Chinese  Bellflower 

Stokes'  Aster 

Columbine 

Monkshood 

Windflower 

White  Peony 

White  Chrysanthemum 

Pink  Phlox 

Bellflower 

Flesh  White  Peony 

Blue  Flag 

Beard  Tongue 

White  Phlox 


PLANTING  PLAN 


93 


PLANTING  PLAN  "B"  FOR  A  PLOT  50  x  100  FT. 


This  garden  is  planted 
with  an  assortment  of  hardy 
perennials,  and  the  whole  is 
enclosed  with  hybrid  Tea 
Roses.  The  diagram  repre- 
sents a  plot  50  ft.  wide  by 
118  ft.  deep  to  the  curb. 

On  the  transverse  axis  of  the 
garden  a  Summer  house  is 
located.  This  little  open  area 
is  necessary  to  provide  a  suit- 
able drying  area  for  laundry 
purposes.  The  drier,  however, 
is  of  a  movable  type  and  when 
not  in  use  should  be  removed. 

The  Summer  House  is  sur- 
rounded by  the  Ginkgo,  one  of 
the  most  picturesque  of  trees. 
Small  arches  spanning  the  two 
entrances  to  the  garden  would 
be  a  desirable  feature,  and 
climbing  Roses  should  be 
planted  on  either  side  of  the 
arch,  using  Silver  Moon,  Dr. 
Van  Fleet,  Tausendschoen  and 
Farquhar. 

The  side  line,  west  side,  is 
planted  in  hardy  perennials, 
with  a  flowering  shrub  at  each 
end  as  a  terminal  feature. 

On  the  eastern  boundary 
line  dwarf  flowering  shrubs 
are  planted  at  equal  intervals. 

The  planting  at  the  base  of 
the  house  consists  of  broad- 
leaved  evergreens. 

The  hedge  along  the  front 
is  the  silvery  grey  Japanese 
Cypress,  with  the  green  va- 
riety at  the  ends  and  en- 
trances for  contrast  and  to 
emphasize  those  points. 


Planting  Plan  herewith  and 
Planting  Key  thereto  on  opposite 
page,  are  reproduced  from  Crid- 
land's  PRACTICAL  LAND- 
SCAPE GARDEN  INC,  the  most 
complete  textbook  on  the  subject 
ever  published  at  the  price.  We 
will  forward  this  book  on  appli- 
cation for  $2.15  post-paid. 


24 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


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PLANTING  PLAN 


25 


PLANTING  PLAN 

For  a  property  50x100  feet. 

In  this  scheme  the  treat- 
ment is  of  formal  character 
the  only  informal  part  being 
in  front  of  the  porch,  and  the 
small  plantation  at  the  south- 
west corner.  The  diagram  rep- 
resents a  property  50  ft.  wide 
by  118  ft.  deep  to  the' curb. 

The  stepping  stone  walk  on 
the  west  side  is  placed  between 
two  borders  of  perennials  and 
leads  to  the  enclosure  at  the 
rear. 

Shrubbery  has  been  placed 
at  intervals  in  the  beds  to  lift 
them  up  and  break  the  mo- 
notony. This  feature  is  con- 
tinued along  the  eastern  fence 
line,  while  at  the  base  of  the 
house  the  planting  is  confined 
to  the  hardy  perennials  with 
the  exception  of  two  ever- 
greens placed  at  the  ends  of 
the  beds. 

The  plantation  in  front  of 
the  porch  consists  of  an  assort- 
ment of  conifers,  in  back  of 
which  a  variety  of  vines  are 
placed  for  color  effect.  Bulbs 
for  Spring,  followed  by  low 
growing  annuals,  would  give 
an  additional  interest  to  this 
plantation. 

The  hedge  along  the  front 
is  the  Hemlock  Spruce,  and  it 
should  be  kept  at  a  height  of 
three  to  four  feet. 


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26 


GARDEN  GUIDE 

KEY  TO  PLAN  "D"  OPPOSITE 


Key 
No 

Quan. 

Variety 

Common  Name 

I 

I 

Populus  fastigiata 

Lombardy  Poplars 

2 

I 

Populus  fastigata 

Lombardy  Poplars 

3 

I 

Quercus  palustris 

Pin  Oak 

4 

I 

Fraxinus  americana 

American  Ash 

5 

I 

Acer  saccharum 

Sugar  Maple 

6 

3 

Gingko  biloba 

Maidenhair  Tree 

7 

2 

Acer  polymorphum  dissectum  rubrum 

Cut-leaved  Japanese   Maple 

8 

3 

Thuya  plicatum 

Fern-leaved  Arborvitae 

8 

2 

Juniperus  elegantissima  Leei 

Golden  Juniper 

9 

I 

Liquidambar  styraciflua 

Sweet  Gum 

10 

5 

Viburnum  tomentosum 

Single  Japanese  Snowball 

II 

6 

Lonicera  fragrantissima 

Early  Bush  Honeysuckle 

12 

5 

Syringa,  named  varieties 

Lilacs 

13 

S 

Hydrangea  paniculata 

Late  Hydrangea 

14 

6 

Philadelphus  coronarius 

Mock  Orange 

IS 

7 

Rosa  rugosa 

Japanese  Rose 

i6 

6 

Buddleia  Veitchiana 

Butterfly  Plant 

17 

5 

Viburnum  plicatum 

Japanese  Snowball 

i8 

6 

Lonicera  Morrowi 

Bush  Honeysuckle 

19 

7 

Abelia  grandiflora 

Hybrid  Abelia 

20 

9 

Rhododendron  album  elegans 

White  Rhododendron 

21 

8 

Rhododendron  roseum  elegans 

Pink  Rhododendron 

22 

7 

Lonicera  Morrowi 

Bush  Honeysuckle 

23 

6 

Rosa  rugosa 

Japanese  Rose 

24 

4 

Spiraea  Van  Houttei 

Drooping  Spiraea 

25 

5 

Spiraea  Thunbergii 

Snow  Garland 

26 

3 

Weigela  Eva  Rathke 

Red  Weigela 

27 

5 

Philadelphus  Lemoinei 

Mock  Orange 

28 

6 

Spiraea  Van  Houttei 

Drooping  Spiraea 

29 

6 

Hydrangea  paniculata  grandiflora 

Large  flowering  Hydrangea 

30 

8 

Spiraea  Thunbergii 

Snow  Garland 

31 

9 

Abelia  grandiflora 

Hybrid  Abelia 

32 

7 

Azalea  Hinodegiri 

Japanese  Azalea 

33 

7 

Azalea  Hinodegiri 

Japanese  Azalea 

34 

5 

Spiraea  arguta 

Hybrid  Spira;a 

35 

6 

Kerria  japonica,  single 

Yellow  Kerria 

36 

12 

Iris  Silver  King 

White  Flag 

37 

7 

Hypericum  Moserianum 

St.  John's  Wort 

38 

6 

Rosa  multiflora 

Dwarf  Japanese  Rose 

39 

10 

Phlox  divaricata 

Early  Blue  Phlox 

40 

10 

Aquilegia  flabellata  nana  alba 

White  Columbine 

41 

10 

Stokesia  cyanea 

Stokes'  Aster 

42 

8 

Iris  pallida  dalmatica 

Lavender  Flag 

43 

3 

Paeony  Festiva  maxima 

White  Peony 

44 

10 

Aster  amellus  Beauty  of  Ronsdorf 

Michaelmas  Daisy 

45 

12 

Chrysanthemum  Julia  Lagrav^re 

Red  Chrysanthemum 

46 

3 

Paeony  Richardson's  grandiflora 

Peony 

47 

16 

Delphinium  formosum 

Indigo  Larkspur 

48 

5 

Dicentra  spectabilis 

Bleeding  Heart 

49 

18 

Helenium  Hoopesii 

Early  Sneezewort 

SO 

12 

Veronica  longifolia  subsessilis 

Speedwell 

SI 

10 

Phlox  Miss  Lingard 

Early  Phlox 

52 

6 

Kerria  japonica,  single 

Single  Kerria 

53 

10 

Hesperis  matronalis 

Sweet  Rocket 

54 

12 

Chrysanthemum  Golden  Mme.  Martha 

Yellow  Chrysanthemurr 

55 

6 

Weigela  Eva  Rathke 

Dark  Red  Weigela 

56 

12 

Aquilegia  chrysantha 

Yellow  Columbine 

57 

8 

Phlox  Rheinstrom 

Pink  Phlox 

58 

8 

Phlox  Ardense  Crete 

Early  White  Phlox 

59 

5 

Syringa,  named  varieties 

Lilac 

6o 

2 

Juniperus  virginiana 

Red  Cedar 

6i 

9 

Phlox  Elizabeth  Campbell 

Pink  Phlox 

62 

8 

Lonicera  Morrowi 

Bush  Honeysuckle 

63 

5 

Hibiscus  syriacus,  single 

Pink  Rose  of  Sharon 

64 

5 

PhUadelphus  Mont  Blanc 

Mock  Orange 

PLANTING  PLAN 

Shows  a  good  treatment  of  a 
property  50x150  ft.,  using 
broken  flagstones  with  mor- 
tar joints  for  the  main  walk 
and  stepping  stone  walk  to 
the  service  quarters  and  the 
rear  lawn.    The  service  yard 

enclosed    by    hedge 
{See  Planting  Key  on  page  26) 


For  a  complete  work  on  the  sub- 
ject of  this  chapter 
we  recommend 
PRACTICAL  LANDSCAPE 
GARDENING,  by  Robt.  B. 
Cridlana.  Everybody  loves  a 
garden.  Not  every  one,  however, 
^an  employ  a  landscape  architect 
to  [ay  out  his  grounds.  I'  is  to  fill 
this  need  that  Robt.  Cridland  has 
written  this  helpful  book  which 
goes  carefully  into  all  the  details 
of  planning  a  garden  with  refer- 
ence to  the  location  of  the  house, 
the  character  of  the  land  to  be 
utilized,  the  kind  of  trees  and 
plants  best  suited  to  the  particular 
location,  and  hundreds  of  other 
necessary  operations.  The  author 
is  clear  and  concise  in  his  direc- 
tions and  explanations  and  is, 
above  all,  practical.  Book  consists 
of  266  pages,  contains  91  Pho- 
tographs, 67  sketches  and  33 
planting  plans  (with  keys  to 
plansy.  Price  $2.15,  postpaid. 
Secure  this  book  where  you  bought 
your  Garden  Guide. 


28 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


KEY  TO  PLAN  "E"  OPPOSITE 


Key 

No. 

Quan. 

I 

9 

2 

i6 

3 

125 

4 

350 

5 

3 

7 

I 

8 

5 

10 

10 

II 

3 

12 

10 

13 

6 

14 

5 

IS 

I 

i6 

14 

19 

6 

20 

8 

21 

10 

23 

8 

24 

12 

25 

6 

26 

8 

27 

5 

29 

3 

30 

8 

32 

5 

33 

3 

34 

I 

35 

I 

36 

2 

37 

4 

39 

I 

40 

IS 

41 

5 

42 

9 

42l 

7 

43 

8 

44 

6 

442 

4 

45 

I 

46 

S 

47 

9 

48 

3 

49 

I 

SO 

5 

51 

9 

52 

10 

S3 

9 

54 

6 

55 

6 

56 

6 

57 

3 

58 

7 

59 

10 

60 

8 

6i 

5 

62 

I 

65 

9 

66 

12 

67 

6 

68 

12 

69 

8 

70 

71 

I 

Variety 

Juniperus  virginiana 

Roses,  Hybrid  Tea  (Standards) 

Hybrid  Tea  Roses 

Ligustrum  ovalifolium 

Spiraea  Van  Houttei 

-       .  , ,  I  Key  Nos.-«    9  22  28   S 

Lonicera  Morrowj  ]  No.Plants-S   6    5    6 

Magnolia  acuminata 

Viburnum  Opulus  sterilis 

Buddleia  Veitchiana 

Biota  orientalis  conspicua 

Desmodium  japonicum 

Hydrangea  quercifolia 

Forsythia  susperisa 

Red  Siberian  Crab 

Dianthus  barbatus 

TD     u     •    -ru      V       •    fKeyNos.-17    18    31 

Herb  ens  Thunbergi;  <  ..    „. — - — r — r — =- 
^  1  (.  No.  Plants-  9     9     5 

Deutzia  Lemoinei 

Phlox  W.  C.  Egan 

Iris  Silver  King 

Rose  Pink  Baby  Rambler 

Rose  White  Baby  Rambler 

Rose  Hermosa 

Rose  Pink  Baby  Rambler 

Rosa  rugosa 

Lonicera  fragrantissima 

Phlox  Miss  Lingard 

Juniperus  Sabina 

Taxus  cuspidata 

Larix  europaea 

Cornus  florida  rubra 

Buxus  arborescens  (Globe) 

Taxus  cuspidata 

Magnolia  conspicua 

Hypericum  Moserianum 

Forsythia  suspensa 

Abelia  grandiflora 

Hydrangea  radiata 

Xanthorriza  apiifolia 

Spiraea  Thunbergii 

Syringa  vulgaris 

Apple,  Grimes'  Golden 

Philadelphus  coronarius 

Spiraea  Margaritae 

Juniperus  virginiana  glauca 

Liquidambar  styraciflua 

Hydrangea  paniculata 

CEnothera  missouriensis 

Iris  Blue  Boy 

Chrysanthemum  St.  Illoria 

Paeonia  Van  Houttei 

Funkia  caerulea 

Phlox  Diadem 

Paeonia  festiva  maxima 

Delphinium  chinense 

Iris  pumila  aurea  _ 

Spiraea  Thunbergii 

Pyrus  Maulei 

Juniperus  Cannarti 

Phlox  Eugene  Danzanvilliers 

Iris  aurea 

Paeonia  grandiflora 

Iris  pallida  dalmatica 

Chrysanthemum  Julia  Lagravdre 

Annuals  and  Perennials 

Populus  fastigiata 


Common  Name 
Red  Cedar 

Everblooming  Roses 
California  Privet 
Drooping  Spiraea 

-g  I  Bush  Honeysuckle 

Cucumber  Tree 

Snowball 

Butterfly  Plant 

Columnar    Chinese    Arborv 

Purple  Bush  Clover 

Oak-leaved  Hydrangea 

Drooping  Golden  Bell 

Crab  Apple 

Sweet  William 

,  I    Japanese  Barberry 

Lemoine's  Deutzia 
Hardy  Phlox 
White  Flag 
Everblooming  Rose 
Everblooming  Rose 
Everblooming  Rose 
Everblooming  Rose 
Japanese  Rose 
Early  Honeysuckle 
Early  Phlox 
Savin  Juniper 
Japanese  Yew 
European  Larch 
Pink  Dogwood 
Globe-shaped  Box 
Japanese  Yew 
White  Magnolia 
St.  John's  Wort 
Drooping  Golden  Bell 
Hybrid  Abelia 
Silver-leaved  Hydrangea 
Yellow  Root 
Snow  Garland 
Lilac 

Mock  Orange 
Pink  Spiraea 
Blue  Cedar 
Sweet  Gum 
Late  Hydrangea 
Evening  Primrose 
German  Flag 
Pink  Chrysanthemum 
Crimson  Peony 
r     Plantain  Lily 
Hardy  Phlox 
White  Peony 
Chinese  Larkspur 
Dwarf  Flag 
Show  Garland 
Pink  Japanese  Quince 
Pyramidal  Cedar 
Lilac  Phlox 
Yellow  Flag 
Pink  Peony 
Lavender  Flag 
Red  Chrysanthemum 

Lombardy  Poplar 


30  GARDEN  GUIDE 


Z 


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PLANTING  PLAN 


31 


PLANTING  PLAN  "  F  " 

Lot  190x190  ft.    Residence  lot  designed  to  provide  a  flower  garden,  garage,  enclosed 

service  yard  and  croquet  lawn.      Tlie  interesting  features  are  a  terrace  walk, 

stepping  stone  walk  in  lawn,  and  unique  entrance  arrangement 


32 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Key 

No.    Quan. 


and 


2  and  3 
6 
S 

31 
6 
7 
II 
IS 
7 
31 

12 

9 

6 

14 

II 

5 

7 


9 

10 

II 

12  and 

13 

14 

IS 

i6 

17 

i8 

19 


20,  33  and  34 


21 
22 
23 

24 
2S 

26 
27 
28 

28H 

29 

32  and 

37  and 

38 

39 

40 

41 

42 

43 

44 

45 

46 

47 


II 
II 

7 

S 

S 

S 

5 

9 

S 
20 

7 

35 

54 

7 

3 

3 

3 

6 

3 

5 

5 

6 

6 


48  and  49.  II 

51  8 
50      3 

52  I 

53  I 

55  5 

56  and  57.  u 
3 


58 

60  and 
6x 


63 

64 

65 

66 

67 

68  to 

71  to 

74  and 

76 

77 

78 

79 

80 

81 

83 

83 


5 

62 

5 

5 

5 

7 

5 
10 

70 

72 

75 
16 

7 
14 

7 

5 

6 

14 

600 


KEY  TO   PLAN  "G"  OPPOSITE 

Variety 
Syringas  in  variety 
Spiraea  Van  Houttei 
Hydrangea  arborescens  grandiflora 
Kerria  japonica,  single 
Forsythia  viridissima 
Amygdalus  nana 
Exochorda  grandiflora 
Pyrus  japonica 
Lonicera  grandiflora 
Spiraea  Frcebelli 
Symphoricarpos  racemosus 
Berberis  vulgaris 
Lonicera  Marrowi 
Deutzia  gracilis 
Viburnum  Carlesii 
Retinispora  plumosus 
Viburnum  dentatum 
Berberis  Thunbergii 
Spiraea  sorbifolia 
Weigela  rosea 
Deutzia  Pride  of  Rochester 
Syringa  Pekinensis 
Cercis  japonica 
Caragana  arborescens 
Juniperus  virginiana 
Viburnum  tomentosum 
Rosa  rubiginosa 
Spiraea  Thunbergii 
Hypericum  moserianum 
Ligustrum  Regelianura 
Azalea  Hino-de-giri 
Berberis  purpurea 
Philadelphia  Avalanche 
Viburnum  Carlesii 
Syringa  Mme.  Casimir  Perrier 
Spiraea  Anthony  Waterer 
Syringa  Pres.  Grevy 
Hydrangea  paniculata  grandiflora 
Desmodium  penduliflorum 
Weigela  Eva  Rathke 
Viburnum  Opulus  sterilis 
Hibiscus 

Dwarf  Fruit  Trees  (4  Apples  and  4  Pears) 
Forsythia  Fortunei 
Populus  fastigiata 
Pyrus  Ivonsis  (Bechtel's) 
Cotoneaster  Simonsii 
Ilex 

Rhododendron  roseum  elegans 
Mahonia  japonica 
Azalea  amcena 
Ilex  crenata  latifolia 
Ilex  crenata 
Mahonia  aquifolia 
Rhododendron  purpureum  elegang 
Ilex  glabra 

Rhododendron  roseum  elegans 
Juniperus  virginiana  and  other  Junipers 
Quercus,  Red  Oak,  Pink  Oak  and  Mossy  Cup  Oak 
Cerasus 

Juniperus  Cannarti 
Lycium  barbarum 
Berberis  Thunbergii 
Symphoricarpos  racemosus 
Callicarpa  purpurea 
Ligustrum  Regelianum 
Deutzia  gracilis 
Assorted  Hardy  Perennials  and  Bulbs 


Common  Name 
Lilac 

Van  Houttei  Spirea 
Large  Flower  Hybrid 
Corchorua 
Golden  Bell 
Flowering  Almond 
Pearl  Bush 
Japanese  Quince 
Bush  Honeysuckle 

Snowberry 

Barberry 

Bush  Honeysuckle 

Dwarf  Deutzia 

Japanese  Cypress 
Arrowwood 
Japanese  Barberry 
Ash-leaved  Spiraea 
Pink  Weigela 
Pink  Deutzia 
Chinese  Lilac 
Japanese  Red  Bud 
Siberian  Pea 
Red  Cedar 

Single  Japanese  Snowball 
Sweet  Brier 
Thunberg's  Spiraea 
St.  John's  Wort 
Regel's  Privet 
Evergreen  Azalea 
Purple-leaved  Barberry 
Mock  Orange 

White  Lilac 

Pink  Spiraea 

Blue  Lilac 

Large  Flowering  Hybrid 

Bush  Clover 

Red  Weigela 

Snowball 


Golden  Bell 
Lombardy  Poplar 
Flowering  Crab 

Holly 
Rose  Bay 

Evergreen  Barberry 
Evergreen  Azalea 
Japanese  Holly 
Japanese  Holly 
Evergreen  Barberry 
Rose  Bay 
Ink  Berry 
Rose  Bay 


Flowering  Cherry 
Pyramidal  Juniper 
Washington  Bower 
Japanese  Barberry 
Snowberry 
Beauty  Shrub 
Regel's  Privet 
Dwarf  Deutzia 


PLANTING  PLAN  "G' 

Key 

No.        Quart.  Variety 

84  4  Standard  Crataegus  roses  fl.  pf. 

8s         200  Tea  and  Hybrid  tea  Rosea,  20  inches  apart^ 

80  I  Picea  Kosteriana 

87  and    88  Retinispora  filifera  aurea  ) 


89 

I 

Juniperus  Pfitzeriana 

90 

I 

Taxus  cusoidata 

91 

2 

Buxus  pyramidalis 

93 

7 

Acer  saccharum 

93 

I 

Abies  Veitchii 

33 

Common  Name 
4  Hawthorn 

Colorado  BlueSpruce 
Japanese  Golden  Cypress 
Spreading  Juniper 
Japanese  Yew 
Pyramidal  Box 
Sugar  Maple 


Planting  Plan  *'G"  for  a  property  of  two  acres. 


CHAPTER  II 


Lawns  and  Grass  Plots 

Seed  Mixtures — Sowing — Yearly  Care — Mowing — Rolling 
Weeding — Turfing 

THE  lawn  furnishes  the  setting  for  a  house,  and  if  it  is  trim,  smooth 
and  of  a  healthy  green,  will  add  the  finishing  touch  to  an  attrac- 
tive home  which  no  amount  of  planting  can  give.     Wide  spread- 
ing slopes  or  level  terraces  of  turf  are  the  deHght  of  many  of  both  the 


A  well  kept   lawn,  furnishing  a    splendid  set- 
ting for  the  house,  with  its  trees  and  borders 
to  right  and  left 


simplest  and  the  stateliest  residences.      Neat  lawns  are  ever  the  sign 
of  thrifty  people. 

The  main  difficulty,  generally,  is  that  too  frequently  the  surface 
is  cut  by  meaningless  and  inappropriate  beds.  Such  beds,  in  large 
lawns,  sometimes  detract  from  the  feeling  of  repose,  and  in  small 
lawns  the  beds  may  often  be  left  out  with  advantage.  Trees  and 
shrubs  which  are  arranged  haphazard  and  thickly  about  a  lawn  are 

34 


LAWNS  AND  GRASS  PLOTS  35 

also  objectionable.  Many  a  home  yard  is  utterly  spoiled  by  this 
spotty  appearance.  The  suggestion  is  to  let  the  lawn  stand  for  a 
feature  by  itself,  and  to  arrange  the  trees,  shrubs  and  flowers  at  the 
margins.  In  many  cases  no  better  effect  can  be  gained  than  by 
allowing  the  cool  green  lawn  to  run  directly  up  to  the  brick  or  brown 
stone  houses. 

In  establishing  a  lawn  it  should  always  be  remembered  that 
the  first  preparation  is  the  important  one;  because  it  will  remain  for 
years  before  being  dug  up  again.  If  the  soil  is  a  heavy  clay,  it  must 
be  drained,  for  the  grasses  most  used  in  lawns  do  not  tolerate  "wet 
feet."  If  grading  has.  been  done,  soil  which  was  at  the  surface  must  be 
provided  for  a  surface  layer,  because  subsoil  does  not  contain  the  proper 
organisms  for  good  growth.  If  top-soil  is  not  obtainable,  it  is  better 
to  seed  for  a  year  with  Peas  and  Oats  which  should  be  spaded  or  plowed 
under  when  in  juicy  growth.  Any  soil  will  benefit  by  an  apphcation  of 
well  decayed  manure.  Fresh  manure  contains  weed  seeds  and  will 
always  prove  troublesome.  Besides  manure,  there  is  nothing  better 
than  ground  bonemeal.  This  will  continue  to  supply  the  beneficial 
food  substances  for  a  great  length  of  time.  Before  the  seed  is  sown, 
the  soil  must  be  raked  very  smoothly  and  the  stones  removed.  It 
should  be  firm  and  perfectly  level,  for  every  hollow  will  show  later. 
A  little  rolling  will  compact  the  soil  just  enough  for  seeding. 

Seed  Mixtures 

No  one  variety  of  lawn  grass  is  the  best.  In  order  to  get 
results  we  must  not  depend  on  one  grass  alone,  but  must  so  mix 
our  varieties  that  a  thick  turf  is  formed  not  only  quickly,  but  per- 
manently. Some  grasses  live  but  a  year,  and  require  an  annual  re- 
sowing.  Cheap  mixtures  contain  some  of  these.  It  is  interesting  to 
know  that  the  roots  of  some  grasses  go  deeper  than  others;  for  this 
reason  good  mixtm^es  utilize  the  whole  top-soil  most  advantageously. 
Reputable  seedsmen  can  be  depended  upon  to  supply  proper  mixtures 
for  various  purposes.  Go  to  them,  tell  them  your  soil  conditions,  and 
they  will  give  you  the  proper  mixture. 

Kentucky  Blue  Grass  is  no  doubt  the  most  used.  It  does  not 
make  a  good  sod  the  first  year,  but  improves  in  subsequent  years.  It 
succeeds  admirably  on  the  limestone  soils.  In  Midsummer,  it  is  apt 
to  become  somewhat  brown.  Canada  Blue  Grass  is  useful  for  dry  and 
clayey  soils  and  seems  able  to  resist  drought.  Many  of  the  Fescues 
are  extremely  valuable.  The  Fine-leaved  Sheep's  Fescue  has  the  nar- 
rowest blades.  The  Hard  Fescue  is  useful  in  forming  a  dense  mat  and 
stands  drought.  Besides  these,  the  Creeping,  the  Sheep's  and  the 
Meadow  Fescues  all  form  sods,  and  are  useful  for  mixtures. 


3d 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


For  immediate  results,  but  not 
lasting,  a  little  Italian  Rye  Grass  can 
be  used.  The  Rye  Grass  is  an  annual 
and  will  give  a  good  appearance  the  first 
year.  Oats  sown  upon  a  new  lawn  not 
only  help  the  appearance  but  shade 
the  tender  perennial  grasses  and  allow 
them  to  get  a  good  start.  Red  Top 
seems  to  succeed  even  on  shghtly  acid 
soils,  and  forms  a  dense  mat.  The 
Sweet  Vernal  Grass  is  odorous  and  gives 
a  softness  to  the  lawn.  Wood  Meadow 
and  Rough  Stalked  Meadow  Grass  both  succeed  well  in  the  shade. 
White  Clover  is  also  useful  in  mixtures;  it  forms  a  dense  ground  cover 
and  thrives  in  most  soils  and  chmates.  A  quart,  which  is  a  little  over 
half  a  pound,  should  be  used  for  every  three  hundred  square  feet  of 
surface.    The  Clover  is  to  be  sown  separately,  as  the  seed  is  heavier. 


A  lattice  screen,  supported  at 
the  base  by  a  wall.  Between 
the  chinks  of  the  stones  and 
in  a  channel  along  the  top, 
suitable  plants  are  grown 


When  and  How  to  Sow 

Grass  may  be  sown  as  soon  as  the  snow  has  gone  and  the  ground 
warmed  slightly.  It  is  an  advantage  to  get  it  well  started  before  the 
trees  begin  to  shade  the  soil,  perhaps  as  early  as  April.  If  sown  later, 
especially  in  Midsummer,  the  hot  sun  will  make  it  difficult  for  the 
grass  to  start.  The  soil  will  need  careful  and  thorough  watering. 
Grass  seed  may  also  be  sown  in  the  Autumn,  from  mid-August  to 
October,  with  good 
results.  If  a  day  just 
before  a  rain  can  be 
chosen  it  will  be 
found  that  the  grass 
will  be  up  in  a  few 
days.  If  no  rain  is  in 
sight,  give  a  thorough 
sprinkling  of  water, 
but  not  with  force, 
else  the  seed  will  be 
washed  out.  If  it  is 
windy,  the  seed  will 
scatter    badly,     and      „        «  ^  .         ^  ..     ,  .. 

•^  Some  flower  gardens  are  so  situated  that  it  becomes 

Will     not     come  up       necessary  to  run  a  lattice-work  fence  around  them. 

I  A    dainty,   ornamental  fence  like   the   above,   if 

evenly.  painted  white,  is  very  suitable 


LAWNS  AND  GRASS  PLOTS 


37 


When  lar^e  areas  are 
to  be  sown  it  is  best 
to  divide  the  lawn 
into  approximately 
ten-foot  squares  and 
treat  each  separate- 
ly, else  it  will  be 
difficult  to  sow  uni- 
formly. To  cover  the 
seeds,  the  areas 
should  then  be  raked 
in  two  directions, 
after  which  the  lawn 
should  be  thoroughly 
rolled.  This  will  com- 
pact the  soil  so  that 
the  seeds  are  in  con- 
tact   with    the    soil 


An  eflfective  disposition  of  a  lawn. 

There  is  a  tendency  here  to  overdo  through  too  heavy  a 

planting.     This  arrangement  entails  much  labor  to  keep 

in  condition 


particles. 

Mowing 

When  the  young  grass  has  been  up  for  perhaps  two  weeks  it  is 
often  best  to  roll  it  and  defer  the  first  cutting  until  the  plants  are  about 
three  inches  tall.  The  new  lawn  should  not  be  cropped  too  closely, 
but  should  be  cut  regularly.  The  grass  will  then  be  induced  to  spread 
out  rather  than  grow  tall.  If  cut  weekly,  the  clippings  should  not  be 
removed;  they  will  be  useful  to  protect  the  roots  against  the  sun  as 
well  as  to  furnish  an  excellent  mulch.  If,  however,  the  grass  has 
grown  long,  the  chppings  should  be  raked  and  will  be  a  good  mulch 
for  use  about  perennials  in  the  borders. 

Care  of  the  Lawn 

The  yearly  care  of  the  lawn  consists  first  of  a  shght  mulch  of 
thoroughly  rotted  manure  in  the  Winter.  This  not  only  protects  the 
grass  from  the  cold,  bu^t  supplies  plant  food  as  well.  In  the  Spring, 
when  growth  first  starts,  the  coarser  material  should  be  removed  and 
the  lawn  given  a  dressing  of  bonemeal.  An  application  of  nitrate  of 
soda,  which  is  best  applied  in  solution  (one  oz.  to  two  gallons  of  water), 
will  give  the  lawn  a  good  start.  To  renovate  the  lawn,  seed  can  usually 
be  sown  about  one-half  as  thickly  as  for  new  lawns. 

Frequently  bad  spots  are  found.  These  are  often  due  to  the  fact 
that  in  grading  some  large  stone  has  been  left  in  the  soil  which  cuts 
off  the  supply  of  water  from  below.    At  other  times  the  soil  becoming  a 


38  GARDEN  GUIDE 

little  sour,  causes  the  bare  spot.  Dig  up  such  an  area  deeply  and 
remove  the  stones.  Place  in  fresh  soil,  a  little  lime  and  decayed  manure. 
It  is  advisable  to  give  an  extra  heavy  seeding  also. 

Rolling  the  Lawn 

Not  only  on  the  newly  seeded  areas  is  the  roller  useful,  but  all  the 
lawns  should  be  thoroughly  rolled  in  the  Spring.  The  Winter  frosts 
cause  more  or  less  heaving  of  the  soil,  exposing  the  roots  to  drying  as 
well  as  leaving  an  irregular  surface.  The  best  rollers  for  the  purpose 
are  the  water  ballast  rollers;  they  are  made  of  hollow  iron  and  can  be 
readily  filled  with  water,  thus  increasing  or  diminishing  the  weight  for 
the  various  soils  and  their  changing  conditions. 

Exterminating  the  Weeds 

Many  of  the  objectionable  weeds  on  new  lawns  are  annuals,  and 
they  may  be  entirely  eradicated  in  one  year  if  they  are  prevented  from 
seeding.  Many  other  weeds,  such  as  Docks,  DandeUons  and  Canadian 
Thistles,  are  perennials,  and  are  provided  with  underground  fleshy 
roots  which  must  be  dug  deeply  and  pulled  up.  Cuttmg  them  just 
below  the  surface  aggravates  the  situation,  because  three  or  four 
shoots  start  in  place  of  one. 

Overcoming  Lawn  Troubles 

Turfing 

It  often  becomes  necessary  to  establish  a  lawn  under  very  adverse 
conditions,  in  which  case  it  is  best  to  use  sod  or  turf  which  can  be  re- 
moved from  a  pasture  or  vacant  lot.  With  a  spade  the  turf  can  easily 
be  cut  into  twelve-inch  squares  and  moved.  Especially  is  this  advan- 
tageous for  bordering  newly  estabhshed  paths  and  roads,  or  where  nar- 
row strips  are  wanted  between  beds  of  flowers.  The  soil  should  be  as 
carefully  prepared  and  put  in  as  good  physical  condition  as  for  new 
lawns.  In  edging  walks,  the  cut  sod  should  be  a  Httle  lower  than  the 
adjacent  sown  area,  which  in  time  will  settle.  The  sod  should  be 
thoroughly  firmed  and  watered  so  that  the  grass  roots  are  immediately 
encouraged  to  start  growth  into  the  soil  below. 

For  a  complete  work  on  the  subject  of  this 
chapter,  we  recommend 

LAWNS  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  THEM^  by  Leonard  Barron.     Will  aid 

any  one  to  establish  a  greensward  in  any  sort  of  soil  where  grass  can  be  made 

to  grow.    Flexible   cloth,    174  pages.     Profusely   illustrated.     Price    I1.3S 

postpaid.    Secure  this  book  where  you  bought  your  Garden  Guide. 


CHAPTER  III 


Hedges  and  Fences 

Hedges  of  Privet,  Berberis,  Siberian  Dogwood,  Box,  Yew,  Hex, 

Buckthorn,    Crataegus    Oxyacantha,   Hemlock,   Arbor  Vitae   and 

Norway    Spruce— Location— Soil— Fences    with     Climbers 


MUCH  has  been  said  of  late  regarding  the  wholesale  manner 
in    which    fashion    has    dictated    that    every    sort    of   fence 
and    boundary    should   be    removed.       The   word   "garden" 
carries  with  it  the  meaning  of  enclosure.    We  in  America  are  getting 
more  and  more  away  from  having  even  our  own  dooryards  to  our- 


When  this  property  of  one  acre  was  purchased  there  was  not  a  tree  or  a  plant  on  the 
place.  The  frontage  on  the  main  road  is  120ft.,  on  a  side  road  some  400ft.  The  ground 
rises  splendidly  from  the  main  road;  the  house  was  placed  200ft.  from  that  road. 
Judicious  planting  has  made  these  home  grounds  "a  thing  of  beauty  and  a  joy  forever." 
From  the  very  first  plantings  of  very  small  stock  the  attractiveness  of  the  place  has 
improved  from  year  to  year 


selves.  Often  we  cannot  tell  where  our  province  leaves  off  and  the 
next  begins.  Marauders  have  full  sweep.  There  is  something  home- 
like about  an  enclosure  with  some  degree  of  privacy.  Because  the 
city  is  abolishing  every  means  for  such  privacy  we  wish  at  times  to 
be  by  ourselves,  and  the  country  is  chosen.  Hedges  or  boundaries  need 

39 


40 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Ungainly  and  displeasing.    The  grass  is  unkempt; 

the  shrubs  in  front  are  wild  growths  that  have 

sprung  up  of  their  own  accord,  yet  the  situation 

is  ideal  for  gardening 


not  be  emphasized, 
but  let  us  not  fear 
to  put  up  some  little 
shrubbery  to  shield  us 
from  the  pubhc  gaze, 
and  let  us  enclose 
parts  of  our  own  do- 
main by  a  low  hedge. 
Formidable  fences  are 
not  advocated,  but 
pirvate  areas  bound- 
ed by  hedges  are  al- 
ways interesting. 

Low  hedges  of 
the  graceful  Ligus- 
trum         Regehanum  ' 

(Regel's  Privet)  are  very  handsome;  or  Rerberis  Thunbergii,  with  its 
red  berries  and  Fall  coloring;  or  the  Siberian  Dogwood  (Cornus  alba 
sibirica).  For  an  evergreen  hedge,  nothing  has  been  used  more  than 
Rox.  This  is  not  hardy  in  all  parts  of  the  North,  and  is  a  very  slow 
grower.  For  starting  the  hedge  old  plants  may  be  broken  apart  and 
set  out.  The  Dwarf  Japanese  Yew  (Taxus  cuspidata  var.  brevifoha) 
is  very  hardy  but  has  hardly  become  known  as  yet  in  American  gardens. 
Rex  crenata  microphylla  can  also  be  used. 

Taller  hedges  are  best  made  of  the  Ibota  (Ligustrum  Ibota), 
common  Privet  (Ligustrum  vulgare),  or  the  California  Privet  (Ligus- 
trum ovalifohum).  The  California  Privet  is  seen  at  its  best  in  the 
Eastern  coastal  states,  from  Maine  south,  and  succeeds  admirably 
from  the  very  edge  of  the  beach  up  to  ten  miles  inland,  where  it  is  one  of 

the  best  materials  to 
use,  but  in  many  in- 
land northern  locaU- 
ties  it  freezes  to  the 
ground  every  few 
years  so  that  the 
character  of  the  hedge 
is  destroyed.  The 
Golden  Privet  is  very 
bright  and  cheery, 
but  hard  to  buy.  The 
Ruckthorn  (Rhamnus 

Rough,  neglected  surroundings— no  planting  at-       cathartica)  is  a  USeful 

tempted,  no  lawn,  no  shrubs,  no  flowers.      How  ,  pooilv  npne- 

much  the  dwellers  miss  an"  noi  easny  peue- 


HEDGES  AND  FENCES 


41 


trable  hedge.  Crataegus  crus-galli  and  oxyacantha  are  also  useful. 
They  will  require  close  pruning  when  small  to  induce  branches  at 
the  base  of  the  plants.  Crataegus  crus-galli,  on  account  of  its  dangerous 
needle-like  thorns,  should  not  be  set  out  where  there  is  a  sidewalk. 
Hedges  of  Hemlock,  Arbor  Vitae  and  Norway  Spruce  are  substantial 
when  the  taller  ones  are  wanted.  The  Hemlock  is  the  finest,  since 
each  plant  merges  into  the  next  admirably. 

A  common  blunder  with  hedges  is  to  locate  them  too  near  walks  so 
that  they  are  injured  by  the  constant  brushing  against  them  by  the 
passersby. 

The  soil  should  be  prepared  deeply  and  well  as  for  ordinary  shrub 
planting.  The  practice  is  not  advised  of  placing  two  rows  of  shrubs  for 
a  hedge.  The  hedge  can  be  kept  cleaner  of  weeds  and  its  growth  is  more 
syimnetrical  by  planting  only  one  row.  It  is  advisable  in  setting  a 
hedge  to  set  the  plants  so  that  they  touch  at  planting  time.  This  means 
that  the  smaller  plants,  as  Barberry,  will  be  planted  six  to  eight  inches, 


Privet  put  to  good  use  and  charming  city  street  arrangement 


42 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


and  Privets  ten  to  twelve  inches  apart.  The  soil  must  be  thoroughly 
firmed  around  the  plants  at  setting. 

For  pruning  hedges,  see  chapter  on  Pruning. 

Board  or  picket  fences  are  employed  between  the  smaller  subur- 
ban yards.  These  can  be  covered  with  Rambler  Roses,  Honeysuckle 
in  variety,  or  other  climbers.  By  proper  pruning  and  thinning  these 
will  not  get  too  heavy  or  cumbersome,  and  can  readily  be  held  back 
if  the  fence  requires  to  be  painted.  Iron  fences  and  galvanized  or 
alumina  plated  fences  are  also  used,  the  latter  being  strong  and  dur- 
able. Or  again,  a  soil  bank  can  be  thrown  up  and  be  planted  with 
trees  and  shrubs.  The  consideration  of  brick  and  stone  walls  hardly 
comes  within  the  scope  of  this  book. 


Hemlock  Hedge. 


Tsuga  canadensis.     Imposing,  yet  the  greenery  is 
soft  and  pleasing 


For  a  complete  work  on  the  subject  of  this 
chapter,  we  recommend 

HEDGES,  WINDBREAKS,  SHELTERS  AND  LIVE  FENCES,  by  E.  P 
Powell.  Planting,  growth  and  management  of  hedge  plants  for  country  and 
suburban  homes.  Gives  accurate  directions  concerning  hedges;  how  to  plant 
and  treat  them;  and  especially  concerning  windbreaks  and  shelters.  Price 
80c.,  postpaid.    Secure    this    book    where    you    bought    your   Garden   Guide. 


Always  consult  Index  to  Contents.     Familiarize  yourself  with  it.     There 

are  hundreds  of  good  things  in  this  book  that  will  escape  your  attention 

if  you  do  not  use  the  Index  freely 


CHAPTER  IV 


Trees  and  Shrubs 

Trees  for  Shade  and  Shelter  Upon  the  Lawn — Street  Trees — 
Evergreens— Planting  Trees— Best  Shrubs— Shrubs  with  Edible 
Berries — Evergreen  Shrubs — Ground  Cover  and  Low  Growing 
Shrubs — Low  Growing  and  Trailing  Shrubs  for  Various  Pur- 
poses— Bushes  for  Wet  Places — Flowering  the  Branches  of 
Shrubs  Indoors — Blooming  Dates  of  Trees,  Shrubs  and 
Climbers — How  to  Treat  Nursery  Stock  and  Material  Gathered 
from  the  Wild 

TREES 

THERE  is  nothing  more  exalting  than  a  great  tree,  and  as  Prof. 
Bristow  Adams  suggests:  "The  wonderful  thing  about  the  tree  is 
that  it  keeps  growing  year  after  year  and  thus  takes  its  place 


as  the  oldest  living  thin^^ 
heritage,  or  if  we  find  no 
trees  growing  on  our  land 
we  should  plant  them  for 
our  posterity. 

Not  only  should  we 
plant  trees,  but  we 
should  care  for  them 
properly  and  prune  and 
spray  them  inteUigently. 
Because  we  are  neglect- 
ful one  year,  an  Ehn 
which  has  grown  for  a 
hundred  years  may  be  so 
damaged  by  the  Elm 
beetle,  that  recovery  will 
be  slow.  We  owe  it  to 
the  community  to  try 
to  save  it.  Do  not  allow 
the  removal  of  trees  by 
telephone  companies. 
When  excavating  for 
building  foundations  or 
grading  give  careful 
thought  for  their  pro- 
tection. 


As  such  we  should  revere  it  as  a  choice 


^ 

m 

I 

'■*'- -nM^n^s 

m 

^ 

'^'^l^raH 

'-.'■ '"''""'. 

H^'f 

"^IB 

"  ■       -f '." 

l^pv 

^:-,^ 

^^':-' 

^ 

w 

k 

HbHS^MSss  ^  "v ; 

mm- 

^^f 

m 

'"" 

uuS 

The  Pin  Oak  in  all  its  beauty. 

As  a  street  tree,  even  with  the  necessary  trimming 

of  its  lower  branches,  it  is  still  imposing.     Hard 

and  long  lived 

43 


44 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Trees  for  Shade  and  Shelter  Upon  the  Lawn 

The  trees  each  of  us  would  choose  for  our  lawn  decoration  would 
most  probably  be  those  for  which  we  have  a  personal  liking.  From 
childhood,  we  reverence  a  certain  type  of  tree  either  because  of  fruits 
it  bears,  its  shape  or  its  Fall  colors.     Nothing  compares  with  the 

American  Elm  for 
res  tful  beauty ;  es- 
pecially so  are  the 
forms  which  are  vase- 
shaped  and  with  foli- 
age to  the  soil.  The 
Tulip  tree  makes  a 
strong  appeal;  the  fo- 
liage is  glossy  bright 
green  above  and  pale 
below,  and  the  tight 
bark  of  older  trees  is 
beautiful.  What  is 
more  effective  than  a 
huge  Red  or  Black 
Oak  with  its  strong 
and  often  crooked 
branches,  which  so 
often  grow  out  at 
right  angles  to  the 
trunk?  Such  a  tree 
is  in  mind  which 
takes  up  as  much 
room  as  the  httle 
Dutch  house  beneath 
it.  Specimen  Beeches, 
which  are  branched  to  the  soil,  though  usually  very  formal  in  shape, 
are  yet  graceful.  All  persons  progressive  enough  to  read  garden  books, 
of  course,  would  never  spoil  the  beauty  of  the  lawn  trees  by  removing 
the  lower  limbs.  This  especially  applies  to  the  Beech.  It  is  peculiar, 
but  many  persons  have  not  realized  that  if  they  prune  off  the  limbs  of  a 
young  tree  it  is  very  difficult  ever  to  get  new  branches  to  start  out 
from  below  again.  The  white  Birch  is  graceful  and  dainty,  but  it  is 
being  attacked  by  a  borer  to  such  an  extent  that  it  is  best  not  to 
advise  planting  it.  To  this  brief  list  might  be  added  a  host  of  others 
according  to  personal  preference. 

Besides  the  larger  trees,  there  are  a  great  number  of  very  useful 


The  Oriental  Plane.     Platanus  orientalis 

Much  used  in  street  planting  and  best  employed  where  th 
houses  stand  60  to  SO  feet  apart  across  the  street 


TREES  IN  TOWNS 


45 


smaller  growing  trees.  There  are  many  Crab  Apples  which  are  most 
excellent;  one  of  the  prettiest,  with  double  pink  flowers,  is  Bechtel's 
Grab.  A  very  handsome  variety  of  Japanese  Crab,  has  deep  red  buds 
which  on  opening  become  white  or  a  blush  pink.  The  beauty  of 
this  tree  in  bloom  is  overpowering.  Many  of  the  Thorn  Apples  are 
handsome.  They  require  a  great  deal  of  water  and  should  not  be 
planted  where  they  can  rob  the  perennials. 

A  tree  known  but  httle  and  valued  because  of  its  very  superior 
Autumn  tints,  is  the  Sorrel  tree  (Oxydendron) .  For  Autumn  effect, 
the  Maples  are  excellent,  as  is  also  the  Sweet  Gum. 

One  must  avoid  great  spots  of  vivid  color  in  trees,  for  too  great 
an  abundance  of  purple  Plums  and  Beeches,  Japanese  Maples  and 
variegated  yellow  forms  are  going  to  de- 
stroy the  dignified  beauty  of  your  garden. 


Evergreens 

We  must  now  say  a  word  about  the 
evergreens.  They  are  ever  beautiful  and 
ever  graceful  as  well  as  evergreen.  To  no 
other  trees  does  the  injunction  to  let  the 
lower  limbs  grow  apply  so  much  as  to  the 
evergreens.  How  different  are  our  tastes! 
In  the  evergreens  some  of  us  enjoy  the  in- 
formal, look-as-though-they-were-weather- 
beaten  sorts.  We  enjoy  Pines  which  have 
had  some  accident  when  young  and  have 
four  or  five  trunks  instead  of  one.  We 
admire  the  Austrian  Pine  at  any  stage  of 
its  growth ;  the  Pitch  Pine  when  it  becomes 
old  and  picturesque,  with  its  sturdy  short 
branches,  and  persistent  globular  cones, 
and  the  long,  heavy  foliage  of  the  Red 
Pine.  Others  will  much  prefer  the  conical 
Firs  and  Spruces.  The  greatest  beauty  is 
seen  in  a  perfect  specimen  of  Norway  or 
Oriental  Spruce,  branching  to  the  soil  and 
hung  with  huge  cones;  or  perhaps  the  blue- 
green  or  grayish-green  foliage  of  the  Silver 
Fir  (Abies  concolor)  is  a  great  attraction, 
for  this  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  trees 
of  this  type.  The  latter  is  prettier  than 
the   Colorado   Blue   Spruce,   which   some 


American  Arbor  Vitae 

Thuya      occidentalis      fili- 

foiniis.    Highly  decorative, 

standing     singly     at     any 

appropriate   point 


46 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


think  is  over  planted;  it  is  a 
trifle  bright  and  has  such  stiff 
foHage  that,  in  the  minds  of 
many,  it  does  not  compare  with 
the  softer  and  more  graceful 
fohage  of  the  Silver  Fir. 

Among  smaller  growing 
evergreen  trees  we  have  the 
Japanese  Cypresses  or  Re- 
tinisporas,  the  foUage  of  which 
is  graceful  and  the  habits 
charming.  The  Arbor  Vitaes, 
especially  the  Chinese  species, 
are  very  handsome.  For  mass 
planting,  the  Hemlock  is  ad- 
mirable; the  foliage  is  most 
dainty;  the  trees  merge  into 
one  another  very  nicely.  Be- 
cause of  the  interesting  bristly 
appearing  cones  and  the  soft 
foliage,  the  Douglas  Fir  is  to 
be   admired.  The    Rocky 

Mountain  forms  are  hardy, 
but  the  Coastal  Plain  form  is 
not  in  the  East.  The  Irish 
Juniper  is  most  slender  and 
vertical,  but  it  is  an  inferior 
tree  because  the  Winter  snows 
spread  the  branches  and  often 
break  them  or  ruin  the  shape  of  the  tree.  It  would  seem  well  to  tie 
the  trees  up  a  Uttle  before  Winter.  The  pyramidal  forms  of  Juniperus 
virginiana  are  superior  to  the  Irish  Juniper.  They  are  a  substitute 
for  the  popular  Cypress  effects  seen  in  France. 

Street  Trees 

All  trees  are  not  adapted  for  street  planting.  Some  of  them  are 
too  rapid  growing,  so  that  the  wood  is  soft  and  the  trees  short  lived. 
The  poplars  well  illustrate  this  class.  They  are  miserable  trees,  for 
they  break  easily  in  storms;  their  roots  enter  the  sewer  pipes  and 
they  heave  up  sidewalks.  Cities  which  have  good  forestry  control 
are  making  the  planting  of  this  tree  a  misdemeanor.  The  soft  Maple, 
the  Sycamore  Maple,  the  European  Ash,  Birches,  Willows,  TuHp  Tree 
and  the  Box  Elder  come  in  this  class.    Other  trees  are  objectionable 


W5« 

.«»'''-■; 

-*'       -v*^  •    v*«s>i.-  ;■ «  ^ 

The  Colorado  Blue  Spruce 

There  are  more  delicate  and  softer  appearing 
evergreens,  it  is  true,  but  even  so  the  Blue 
Spruce  has  a  place  all  its  own  as  a  sturdy, 
hardy  and  beautifully  colored  specimen  tree 


TREES  IN  TOWNS 


47 


because  their  attractive  fruits  and  flowers  are  apt  to  be  picked.  In 
this  case,  the  form  of  the  tree  is  usually  spoiled.  Examples  of  trees 
of  this  class  are  Chestnut,  Hickory,  Horse-Chestnut,  Catalpa,  Black 
or  Common  Locust,  Magnolia,  Dogwood,  Mountain  Ash.  The  Catalpa 
and  Horse-Chestnut  are  really  objectionable  because  of  their  mussy 
habit  of  dropping  flowers,  young  fruits  or  bud  scales. 

Good  street  trees  stand  adverse  conditions,  are  more  or  less  free 
from  insects  and  diseases  and  furnish  shade,  but  not  too  dense;  they  are 
long  lived,  and  those  which  are  arching  are  preferred  by  many  to  the 
more  formal  globular  forms.  Prof.  Curtis  of  Cornell  University,  ad- 
vises the  following  trees  for  various  widths  of  street. 

For  narrow   streets    (less   than   sixty   feet   between '  buildings)  I 
the  trees  should  be  planted  alternately  and  spaced  forty  feet  apart. 
The  following  may  be 
used: 

Pin  Oak.     A  tree  of 

medium    size,    more 

slender    than    most 

Oaks;    one    of    best 

trees      for      narrow 

streets.      Especially 

likes    moisture,    but 

will  adapt  itself  to 

other  conditions. 
Green  Ash.    A  small 

but  hardy  tree.     It 

is  the  species  Frax- 

inus    pennsylvanica, 

var.  lanceolata. 
Tree  of  Heaven  (Ai- 

lanthus  glandulosa). 

This    tree    is    excel- 
lent for   dry  paved 

tenement  sections  of 

cities,   enduring 

smoke  and  dust.  The 

wood  is  brittle  and 

the  trees  are  danger- 
ous when  they  are 

old.       Because    the 

flowers  of  the  male 

tree  emit  a  disagree- 
able odor  the  female 

form     only     should 

be  planted. 

T?  J*  "J  I.  ^  good  garden  composition. 

J:*Or  medium  width  ^^  ^^.^^  ^^^  i^  ^^^^^  ^f  p^j^g  ^j-ees  and  conifers  as  well  as 
streets  (from  sixtV  deciduous  subjects.  The  arch  of  Roses,  the  airy  Summer 
„     ^  .^,  „         ,  house,  the  flower-fringed   water  pool   and  other  features 

leet  to  eighty  leet  be-  here  are  well  placed  and  excellent 


48  GARDEN  GUIDE 

tween  buildings),  the  trees  should  be  spaced  forty  feet  apart.     The 

following  may  be  used: 

Oriental  Plane,    An  excellent  street  tree.    It  is  of  rather  rapid  growth; 

stands  smoke» 
Norway  Maple.  A  drought-resistant  and  smoke-enduring,  symmetrical 

and  tough  tree.    It  is  too  low-headed  for  streets  with  wires. 
Maidenhair  Tree,  or  Ginkgo.    When  young,  this  tree  is  very  erect,  but 

when  it  becomes  older,  the  head  broadens  out. 

For  wide  streets  (over  ninety  feet  between  buildings),  the  trees 
should  be  spaced  fifty  feet  apart,  and  where  possible  they  should  be 
planted  on  the  lawn  six  feet  inside  the  sidewalk  line.  This  should  be 
agreed  upon  and  carried  out  uniformly  by  all  property  owners  on  the 
street.  The  following  may  be  used: 
American  Elm.    The  best  of  all  street  trees  when  given  room,  good  air 

and  water.     The  tree  grows  80  to  100  feet  tall. 
Red  Oak.     It  cannot  grow  in  pavements,  but  is  very  well  adapted  to 

wide  suburban  streets,  where  it  stands  poor  and  dry  soil,  but  does  not 

thrive  in  wet  situations. 
Sugar,  or  Hard  Maple.    An  exceUent  tree  needing  moisture  and  suflFer- 

ing  from  heat,  smoke  and  dust.     It  should  only  be  used  on  the  wider 

streets. 

Planting  Trees 

The  best  method  of  ascertaining  how  to  plant  a  tree  properly 
is  to  observe  the  carefully  prepared  sketches.  More  can  be  seen 
in  these  pictures  than  can  be  expressed  in  words.  The  main  object 
is  to  have  a  hole  large  enough  for  the  roots,  and  to  get  the  trees  just  a 
little  deeper  than  they  stood  in  the  nursery.  An  important  necessity 
for  newly  set  trees  is  a  support.  The  wind  whips  the  tree  about  and 
the  young  roots  are  easily  loosened.  Stakes  should  be  set  deeply  and 
be  a  real  support;  or  the  tree  may  be  supported  by  wires,  taking  care 
that  these  wires  are  in  contact  with  rubber  packings  on  the  branches 
so  that  they  are  not  girdled ;  pieces  of  old  rubber  hose  may  be  used  for 
this  purpose. 

Shrubs 

(Take  our  advice  and  pick  out  a  few  varieties  that  no  one  in  your  town  has; 
don't  Umit  yourself  to  what  everyone  sees  everywhere,  Hydrangeas,  Snowballs, 
common  Lilacs,  etc.  If  you  are  thinking  of  going  into  shrubs,  get  a  catalog  from 
a  reliable  dealer  and  study  it  carefully  for  its  illustrations  and  letterpress.  Bear 
in  mind  that  the  cheapest  is  not  always  the  best;  also  that  the  larger  plants  are 
naturally  dearer  than  the  smaller  ones.  Where  nearly  every  shrub  is  so  beauti- 
ful it  is  a  comparatively  easy  matter  to  select  two  or  three  out  of  the  ordinary.) 

For  the  garden,  whether  large  or  small,  some  shrubs  are  necessary. 
They  not  only  furnish  a  good  fohage  background,  but  some  are  very 
beautiful  for  their  flowers,  which  are  not  only  decorative  in  a  landscape 
way,  but  are  highly  useful  for  cutting.  They  are  the  proper  sort  of 
plants  for  hedges  and  for  screening  unsightly  objects. 


THE  USE  OF  SHRUBS 


49 


Wrong  method  of  planting. 

In  the  loft  hand  picture  the  tree  is  obviously 

placed  too  high,  and  its  roots  are  also  cramped. 

In  the  other  case  the  soil  is  mounded  up  too 

much,   thus  shedding  off  the  water 


In  establishing  a  new  plant- 
ing of  shrubs  give  the  soil  good, 
deep  preparation  and  spade  in 
a  liberalsupply  of  stable  manure 
and  bonemeal.  Let  the  plant- 
ing be  done  either  in  Spring  or 
Fall.  In  the  Spring  shrubs 
should  be  set  out  as  early  as 
the  soil  can  be  worked.  After 
the  growing  season  begins  they 
are  somewhat  weakened  by 
not  being  in  the  soil;  besid<^s, 
they  should  be  well  estabhshed 
before  the  hot  weather  arrives. 
Many  gardeners  prefer  to  plant 
in  the  Fall  because  often  there  is  less  work  which  is  urgent  at  that 
time  of  the  year.  All  such  stock  should  be  given  ample  time  in 
which  to  have  an  opportunity  to  get  their  roots  estabhshed  before  per- 
manent freezing  and  should  be  thereby  protected  during  the  Winter 
by  a  good  mulching  of  manure.  For  an  immediate  effect  the  shrubs 
should  be  planted  ahnost  twice  as  closely  as  they  are  to  stand  per- 
manently. It  is,  therefore,  ad- 
vised to  plant  only  part  of  your 
place  the  first  year  and  plant  it 
thickly.  By  the  time  you  are 
ready  to  plant  the  other  part 
you  can  draw  upon  the  first 
planted  beds  for  your  stock. 
Gardens,  unlike  houses,  can  be 
changed  and  rearranged  easily. 
Shrubs  rarely  suffer  from 
transplanting  if  done  at  the 
right  time  and  watered  thor- 
oughly. 

The  proper  time  for  prun- 
ing is  very  important.  See 
chapter  XVIII  on  this  subject. 


This  tree  is  correctly  pfanted,  each  root  well 
spread,  and  neither  too  deep  nor  too       igh. 
The  dotted  lines  show  where  to  dig  if  it  is  re- 
quired to  transplant  it 


Certain  of  the  Best 
Shrubs 

For   general   screen    plant- 
ing few  shrubs  compare  with 


50 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


the  Lilac.  It  is  exceedingly  hardy  and  the  flower  is  always  a  favorite. 
If  the  good  varieties  of  Lilacs  are  used,  the  individual  blooms  will  be 
important.  The  only  way  to  grow  good,  large  blooms  is  to  keep  all  the 
suckers  from  the  base  of  the  plant  removed;  plants  so  treated  will 
resemble  trees. 

Here  is  a  selection  of  good  varieties  of  Syringa  vulgaris,  the  garden 
Lilac,  flowering  in  late  May:  Single — Marie  Le  Graye,  white;  Charles 
X,  rosy  lilac;  Frau  Bertha  Dammann,  white;  Ludwig  Spaeth,  deep 
purple-red;  Gloire  des  Moulins,  rosy  hlac;  Alba  grandiflora,  white. 
Double — Mme.  Lemoine,  white;  Miss  Ellen  Willmot,  white;  La  Tour 
d'Auvergne,  violet-purple;  Mme.  Casimir-Perier,  creamy  white;  Presi- 
dent Grevy  (semi-double),  bluish  lavender  ;Antoine  Buchner,  light  pink. 
Van  Houttei's  Spiraea,  also  known  as  Bridal  Wreath,  is  unrivaled 
for  prolificacy  and  grace  of  bloom. 
While  the  long  sprays  of  white  blossoms 
are  soon  shattered  by  the  rains  and  the 
plant  does  not  give  a  very  permanent 
flower  effect,  yet,  with  its  beautiful 
green  fohage  and  bushy  growth,  when 
properly  pruned,  it  remains  a  most 
satisfactory  shrub. 

For  the  early  Spring  display  there 
is  nothing  so  cheery  as  the  bright  yellow 
flowers  of  the  Golden  Bell  (Forsythia), 
of  which  there  are  several  forms;  the 
one  known  as  suspensa  is  most  efl'ective 
when  planted  at  the  top  of  a  wall  or  rock 


A  planting  diagram  of  the  National  Rose  Society. 

The  whitened  parts  of  the  stem  indicate  the  depth  to  which  a  standard  and  a 
dwarf  Hose  should  be  planted;  that  is,  the  same  depth  as  they  were  when  in  the 

nursery 


FLOWERING  SHRUBS 


51 


ledge  and  allowed  to  grow  down.  Even  after  flowering  the  foliage 
retains  a  good  color.  The  upright  forms  need  to  be  massed,  as 
individuals  are  not  graceful. 

A  popular  Summer-flowering  hardy  shrub  is  the  Hydrangea  panic- 
ulata  grandiflora.  It  has  handsome  dark  green  fohage  and  bears  in 
great  profusion  immense  panicles  of  white  flowers,  which  gradually 
change  to  rose  and  bronze.  The  shrub  should  be  severely  pruned  in 
early  Spring. 

The  Snowball  (Viburnum  opulus  sterile)  is  one  of  the  best  of 
flowering  shrubs,  bearing  clusters  of  handsome  globular  pure  white 
flowers  in  May. 

Bush  or  Shrub  Honeysuckles  (Loniceras)  are  attractive  shrubs  of 
upright  habit  and  very  desirable  for  mass  and  border  planting.  They 
produce  showy  flowers  which  are  often  followed  by  bright-colored 
berries. 

No  shrubbery  is  complete  without  a  specimen  or  two  of  the 
Japanese  Maple  (Acer  palmatum),  of  which  there  are  several  forms. 
They  are  beautiful  httle  trees  or  shrubs  of  graceful  habit,  their  dehcately 
cut  leaves  of  various  shades  of  color  being  especially  attractive  in 
Spring  and  Autumn. 

Excellent  beds  or  borders  are  arranged,  using  tall  shrubs,  such  as 
Red  Bud  (Cercis)  and  Hawthorns  at  the  back,  with  Mock  Orange 
(Philadelpuhs  coronarius)  and  Wiegela  at  the  midground  and  edged 
with  Deutzia  gracihs  or  Spiraea  Thunbergii;  or  for  lower  beds,  the  use 


Grouping  of  Spiraea  Van  Houttei  and  Viburnum  plicatum  (Snowball) 


5g  GARDEN  GUIDE 

of  Berberis  vulgaris  at  back  with  Berberis  Thunbergii  and  Mahonia  in 
the  foreground. 

For  a  bed  remaining  attractive  during  the  Winter  use  a  few  Ker- 
ria  japonicas,  which  have  green  twigs,  or  Cornus  alba  sibirica,  with  its 
red  twigs,  both  of  which  retain  their  color  all  Winter. 

There  is  a  large  group  of  shrubs  with  beautiful  foliage.  None 
equals  the  graceful  horizontal  branching  of  Kegel's  Privet.  The  flowers 
are  not  very  conspicuous,  being  white,  but  they  are  followed  by  attrac- 
tive black  berries.  The  dainty  narrow,  minute  foliage  of  the  Spiraea 
Thunbergii  is  excellent;  the  tiny  white  flowers  coming  in  early  May  add 
an  extra  charm.  In  the  region  of  central  New  York  the  tips  of  branches 
Winter-kill,  so  that  they  need  to  be  dressed  a  little  in  the  Spring. 

Certain  shrubs  are  fascinating  because  of  peculiar  flowers,  seeds 
and  bark.  The  Sweet  Shrub,  Calycanthus  floridus,  or,  as  it  is  also 
called,  the  Strawberry  Shrub,  is  very  interesting;  the  twigs  are  aromatic 
all  Winter  and  the  leather-petaled,  dull  red  flowers  are  very  individual 
in  fragrance.  Picked  today  they  have  one  fragrance,  perhaps  that  of 
Strawberries;  tomorrow,  the  fragrance  is  more  like  that  of  Apples. 
Closely  resembling  C.  floridus  is  C.  laevigatus,  but  the  flowers  of  the 
latter  are  not  so  sweet.  The  Winged  Spindle-Tree  (Euonymus  alata) 
bears  peculiar  corky  angles  on  the  twigs,  and  a  funny  Uttle  orange 
fruit  inside  of  a  hard  red  husk. 

Shrubs  with  Edible  Berries 

Shrubs  which,  though  ornamental,  produce  berries  which  are  good 
to  eat,  are  interesting  not  only  to  you,  but  to  the  birds  they  attract. 
Many  persons  do  not  know  that  Barberries  make  a  very  good  jam,  es- 
pecially palatable  served  with  the  Thanksgiving  turkey  or  wild  game, 
being  appropriate  as  well  as  tasty.  Goumi,  or  Elaeagnus  longipes,  pro- 
duces an  elongated  red  berry  in  June  or  July  which  is  excellent  picked 
from  the  plant  and  eaten.  The  Vacciniums,  Blueberry  or  Huckleberry, 
besides  being  ornamental,  are,  as  we  all  know,  of  an  excellent  flavor. 
Elderberries  to  some  tastes  make  a  pie  superior  even  to  Huckleberries. 
The  red-fruited  variety  should  not  be  eaten.  The  Nannyberry  (Vi- 
burnum Lentago)  bears  a  black  fruit  very  freely.  It  has  somewhat 
the  flavor  of  Bananas.  Besides,  there  are  the  Blackberries,  the  Rasp- 
berries and  the  Currants,  species  which  are  often  ornamental. 

Broad-Leaved  Evergreen  Shrubs 

There  are  a  number  of  interesting  evergreen  shrubs.  None  are  so 
popular  as  the  Rhododendrons,  which  should  have  a  soil  free  from 


EVERGREEN  SHRUBS 


53 


Mixed  but  effective  planting  of  Iris,  Peonies.  Rhododendrons  and 

Juniperus  stricta  on  top  of  terrace.    Lombardy  Poplars  are  seen  in 

the  background  at  rear  of  house 


lime.  If  you  live  in  a  limestone  region,  before  you  attempt  to  grow 
them  dig  out  the  beds  to  a  depth  of  three  feet,  filhng  in  with  good  wood- 
soil  or  leaf -mold.  Provide  good  drainage  by  putting  a  layer  of  ashes  at 
bottom  of  the  trench.  The  secret  of  success  with  Rhododendrons  is 
to  keep  the  roots  cool  and  moist.  In  Winter  they  should  be  deeply 
mulched  with  leaves.  In  Summer  they  must  have  an  abundance  of 
water.  In  some  Rhododendron  plantations  a  "syringe"  of  water  plays 
upon  the  beds  continually.  They  like  shade  usually,  but  often  by  a 
proper  choice  of  plants,  plantations  may  be  successful  even  in  the  sun. 
In  Winter  a  framework  of  burlap  gives  the  protection  from  the  wind. 
They  should  always  be  massed,  for  Rhododendrons,  unless  in  beds  by 
themselves,  are  either  apt  to  receive  too  much  fussy  care  or  none  at  all. 
The  best  early  varieties  are  Roseum  elegans,  an  old  rose  colored  va- 
riety and  EverestianUm  a  lavender,  both  flow(Ting  in  late  May. 
Then  in  early  June  we  have  Album  elegans,  a  large  white;  Mrs.  C.  S. 
Sargent,  a  pink;  Caractacus,  a  red;  purpureum,  a  purple;  and  Lady 
Grey  Egerton,  a  silvery  gray  lavender. 

There  are  a  number  of  Azaleas  which  are  most  brilliant,  the  best 
being  Azalea  pontica  and  A.  moUis,  in  the  various  colors,  and  Azalea 
amoena,  which  is  a  superb  claret  pink. 


54 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


A  garden  scene  in  Summer. 

In  this  bosky  dingle  are  shrubs  of  many  kinds  and  tall  umbrageous  trees.     The 

Bananas  are  grouped  for  the  season  only;  likewise  the  Yuccas;  filamentosa  is  the 

hardiest  of  the  Yuccas 


A  shrub  which  has  proved  perfectly  hardy  is  the  Japanese  Holly 
(Ilex  crenata,  var.  microphylla) ;  it  grows  about  four  feet  tall  and  is 
excellent.  The  American  Holly  is  hard  to  transplant  but  seems  hardy 
as  far  north  as  Cape  Cod.  The  leaves  should  be  removed  and  plants 
transplanted  in  the  Spring.  The  Mountain  Laurel  (Kalmia  latifoha), 
is,  perhaps,  the  best  evergreen  shrub  grown;  it  succeeds  a  httle  easier 
than  Rhododendrons  and  without  protection  of  the  tops  retains  a 
good  appearance  all  through  the  Winter.  The  Mahonia,  or  Oregon 
Grape  (Mahonia  aquifolium),  is  an  excellent  shrub;  it  succeeds  perfectly 
if  planted  so  that  leaves  are  shaded  from  Winter  sun.  It  surely  looks 
fresh,  green  and  glossy  in  Midwinter. 

Ground  Cover  and  Low  Growing  Shrubs 

Oftentimes  one  wishes  a  ground  cover  of  very  low  shrubbery  in 
the  shade,  and  few  plants  are  as  valuable  as  Pachysandra  terminaUs 
for  this  purpose.  Vinca  minor  is  also  useful;  but  the  leaves  are  not  so 
large.  The  common  Juniper  (Juniperus  communis  adpressa)  is  also 
valuable ;  it  requires  sun.  All  of  these  three  plants  are  evergreen.  Sev- 
eral excellent  low  deciduous  shrubs  for  ground  cover  in  the  sunshine 
are  the  aromatic  Dwarf  Sumach  (Rhus  aromatica)  and  Yellow  Root 


EVERGREEN  SHRUBS  55 

(Xanthorrhiza  apiifolia),  which  spreads  rapidly  by  underground  stems; 
it  does  not  thrive  in  limestone  soils.  Sweet  Fern  (Myrica  asplenifolia) 
will  thrive  on  the  driest,  sunniest  slopes;  Memorial  Rose  (Rosa  Wichur- 
aiana)  is  excellent,  bearing  numerous  white  flowers  in  late  June  or  July; 
English  Ivy;  and  Euonymous  radicans  var.  vegeta  may  also  be  used. 
The  Enghsh  Ivy,  though  very  beautiful,  is  often  rather  tender;  it  en- 
joys a  moist  soil  and  shade  in  Winter. 

Climbing  Vines 

Nothing  contributes  more  to  the  charm  of  the  home  surroundings 
than  a  good  show  of  hardy  climbing  vines,  judiciously  placed  for  cover- 
ing walls  and  tree  stumps,  adorning  the  veranda  and  Summer-houses 
or  creeping  up  the  walls  of  the  house.  The  well-known  Japanese  or 
Boston  Ivy  (Ampelopsis  Yeitchii)  is  a  fast  grower  and  clings  to  wall  or 
tree,  its  leaves  turning  to  a  dark  red  in  the  Fall.  Very  satisfactory  as 
coverings  for  arbors  or  trellises  are  the  dark-  and  bright-leaved  Silver 
Vines  (Actinidia).  The  hardy  Clematis  paniculata,  with  its  wealth  of 
beautiful  foliage  and  masses  of  small,  pure  white,  fragrant  flowers 
which  cover  the  upper  portion  of  the  plant  in  early  Autumn,  is  partic- 
ularly useful  for  growing  about  the  porch  or  on  trellises.  An  excellent 
vine  for  covering  brick  or  stone  walls  and  draping  trunks  of  trees  is  the 
Climbing  Hydrangea,  H.  petiolaris,  the  value  of  which  is  not  as  gener- 
ally realized  as  it  should  be.  It  is  a  plant  of  Japanese  origin,  of  unique 
and  graceful  appearance,  especially  when  in  flower;  propagates  readily 
from  either  Summer  cuttings  or  layers,  begins  to  grow  early  in  the 
season,  and  is  reliably  hardy,  though  it  should  be  afforded  some  Winter 
protection  in  the  colder  sections. 

Other  vines  which  may  be  used  to  advantage  are:  Akebia  quinata, 
purplish  brown  flowers;  Climbing  Honeysuckles  (Loniceras),  handsome 
foliage  and  sweet-scented  flowers;  Aristolochia  sipho  (Dutchman's 
Pipe),  brownish  colored  flowers,  resembhng  a  pipe;  Bignonia  (Trumpet 
Vine)/,  bearing  large,  trumpet-shaped,  orange-red  flowers. 

Low  Growing  and  Trailing  Shrubs  for  Various 
Purposes* 

Deciduous. 

Cotoneaster  horizontalis.    F'or  edging;  semi-evergreen. 

Daphne  Mezereum.     Flowers  light  purple,  appearing  in  early  April  before  the  leaves 

There  is  a  white  variety.    An  erect  shrub  3  feet  high,  with  stout  branches,  which  are 

flexible  and  leathery  like  those  of  Leatherwood  (Dirca  palustris) . 
Hypericum  Buckleyi.     Forms  neat,  compact  mats.     The  earliest  of  the  Hjrpericums. 

Flowers  yellow,  early  July. 
Lonirera  npino'^n  [ — L.  Albertii\.    Has  slender  twigs  and  narrow  linear  leaves.    Flowers 

pink,  late  May.    Plant  low,  from  1  to  2  feet  high. 


56  GARDEN  GUIDE 

Rhododendron  canadense  (Rhodora).  A  slender  shrub,  2  feet  high.  Is  good  in  a  rock 
garden  with  a  ground  cover  of  the  following  species.  Flowers  rosy  purple,  appearing 
before  the  leaves  in  late  April  and  early  May. 

Vaccinium  pennsylvanicum.  (Early  Low  Blueberry).  From  6  to  12  inches  high.  Should 
make  good  dwarf  edging.    Flowers  white  in  early  May. 

Evergreen. 

Arctostaphylos  Uva-Ursi  (Bearberry).  A  creeping,  vine-like  shrub  with  small  leaves, 
abundant  in  Canada,  forming  broad  mats  over  rocky  ledges  and  slopes.    Berries  red. 

Bryanthus  (See  Phyllodoce). 

Calluna  vulgaris  (Scotch  Heather).  Flowers  pink,  July  and  August.  There  is  a  white 
variety. 

Chimaphila  umbellata  (Prince's  Pine,  or  Pipsissewa).    Somewhat  resembles  Pachysandra. 

Cotoneaster  adpressa  and  C.  microphylla.  Resemble  C.  horizontalis,  mentioned  above, 
but  are  more  dwarf  and  evergreen.  Both  have  a  neat  habit  and  glossy  foliage.  May 
not  be  hardy  everywhere,  but  should  be  tried  for  low,  stiff  edging. 

Daphne  Cneorum  (Garland  Flower).  Dense  and  compact.  Pink  flowers  in  May. 
Excellent  for  edging.  From  6  to  12  inches  high.  Twigs  flesdble  and  leathery,  as 
those  of  D.  Mezereum,  described  above. 

Dendrium  [ — Leiophyllum]  buxifolium  (Sand  Myrtle.)  A  dense  shrub,  to  3  feet  high. 
There  is  a  low,  tufted  form,  var.  prostratum.     Flowers  white  or  blush  in  May. 

Empetrum  nigrum  (Black  Crowberry). 

Erica  carnea  (Hardy  Spring  Heath.)    Pink  in  April  and  May.    From  6  to  12  inches  high. 

Gaultheria  procumbens  (Wintergreen,  or  Checkerberry.)  Red  berries.  Leaves  have  good 
flavor. 

Gaylussacia  brachycera  (Box  Huckleberry).     Very  dwarf  and  compact. 

Juniperus  Sabina  var.  tamariscifolia.     A  very  neat  Juniper  for  edging. 

Lycopodium  obscurum  (Ground  Pine) .  A  native  Club  Moss  related  to  Trailing  Christmas 
Green  (L.  complanatum) ,  but  with  stems  erect  and  treelike,  to  12  inches  high. 

Mitchella  repens  (Partridge  Berry).  This  and  the  preceding  are  two  creeping,  vine- 
like plants  excellent  for  the  rock  garden.  Moneywort  has  bright  yellow  flowers  in 
June,  and  Partridge  Berry  has  handsome  red  berries  all  Winter. 

Phyllodoce  [ — Bryanthus]  ccerulea  (Mountain  Heath).  A  low  alpine  shrub,  from  3  to  6 
inches  high.    Flowers  pinkish  purple,  July. 

Potentilla  tridentata.  Plant  from  4  to  8  inches  high,  forming  thick  mats.  Foliage  bronz- 
ing in  Winter.    Flowers  white.  Strawberry-like. 

Rhododendron  [ — Azalea  hinodegira.]  A  low  shrub,  better  than  R.  amcena,  leaves  large, 
and  flowers  a  brilliant  red.    Late  May  and  early  June. 


*LiQt  revised  from  Curtis,  Cornell  Bulletin  361. 

Bushes  for  Wet  Places 

When  planting  grounds  it  is  often  desired  to  obtain  shrubs  for 
planting  in  wet  places,  some  that  will  attract  either  by  their  flowers, 
berries  or  other  features. 

There  is  a  shrub  which  always  comes  to  mind  when  this  subject 
is  thought  of,  Clethra  alnifolia,  because  of  the  profusion  and  fragrance 
of  its  flowers.  It  blooms  in  Midsummer  or  later,  the  bush  is  usually 
covered  with  panicles  of  white  flowers  of  peculiar  fragrance.  In  its 
wild  state  it  is  usually  found  on  the  banks  of  streams,  or  otherwise  near 
water,  so  that  it  is  well  suited  when  planted  in  similar  positions.  There 
is  another  native  Clethra,  the  C.  acuminata,  but  the  alnifolia  is  the 
best  for  the  purpose. 

The  White  Fringe,  Chionanthus  virginica,  is  at  home  in  a  wet 
place.  It  is  wild  in  situations  which  are  almost  under  water  at  times. 
This  has  white  flowers,  too,  but  they  come  early  in  Spring' with  the 


SELECTIONS  OF  SHRUBS  57 

leaves,  and  because  of  the  fringe-like  appearance  of  the  flowers  the 
shrubs  are  called  Old  Man's  Beard  in  some  portions  of  the  South. 

Another  shrub  of  great  merit  is  the  Magnolia  glauca,  the  one  of 
our  swamps  and  low  grounds,  which  is  almost  evergreen,  and  famous 
everywhere  for  the  fragrance  of  its  flowers.  It  is  often  found  side  by 
side  with  the  White  Fringe.  Both  of  these,  though  often  listed  as 
shrubs,  grow  to  the  size  of  a  small  tree  in  time,  if  kept  to  one  shoot 
when  young. 

The  Bayberry,  Myrica  cerifera,  is  a  good  wet  position  shrub,  de- 
Hghting  in  damp  ground,  although  it  can  be  found  growing  wild  on 
light  gravelly  soil.  When  grown  in  groups  where  one  plant  shelters 
the  other  they  are  somewhat  evergreen  in  character.  The  flowers  are 
greenish  white  arid  smaU,  making  no  display  to  attract,  but  the  berries 
when  ripe  are  covered  with  a  white,  waxy  substance,  making  their 
clusters  conspicuous  and  attractive. 

Found  in  similar  situations  to  the  above  mentioned  shrubs  is  the 
Azalea  viscosa-,  a  species  renowned  for  the  fragrance  of  its  blooms. 
The  flowers  are  pure  white,  expanding  in  July  and  August.  It  is  one 
of  the  most  admired  of  Azaleas,  yet  not  at  all  common  in  cultivation. 

In  Vacciniums  (Blueberries),  a  good  one  for  wet  ground,  is  V. 
corymbosum.  It  delights  in  such  situations.  In  Spring  it  presents  to 
view  beautiful  clusters  of  white  flowers.  Edible,  dark  colored  berries 
follow;  later  on,  with  the  approach  of  Autumn,  the  foliage  becomes  of 
a  lovely  orange  bronze  color.  It  is  then  foremost  of  all  the  fohage 
shrubs  famous  for  their  Autumnal  display  of  color. 

The  Sheep  Laurel  (Kalmia  angustifolia)  with  its  purplish  pink 
flowers  may  also  be  used;  as  also  the  Ghamsedaphne,  the  Andromeda 
and  Ledum. 

These  shrubs  would  give  one  a  good  start  in  planting  a  wet  place, 
but  they  do  not  exhaust  the  hst;  many  more  could  be  added. 

Flowering  the  Branches  of  Shrubs  Indoors 

Many  persons  know  that  the  buds  of  Pussy  Willow  and  Golden 
Bell  when  brought  into  the  house  open  nicely  when  placed  in  water, 
but  few  avail  themselves  of  the  pleasures  in  store  for  them  by  cutting 
the  branches  of  a  great  many  shrubs  and  trees  early  in  the  Spring  or 
late  Winter,  and  bringing  them  indoors.  The  nearer  Spring  the  sooner 
wiU  the  buds  burst  into  bloom.  Shrubs  should  be  chosen  which  bloom 
upon  wood  of  previous  season  and  many  of  the  early  Spring  blooming 
trees  and  shrubs  can  be  used.  The  shoots  may  simply  be  placed  in 
water  and  allowed  to  start  naturafly,  but  if  they  are  placed  in  a  base- 
ment and  sprayed  several  times  a  day  with  warm  water  they  will  open 


58 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


much  more  quickly.    The  forced  branches  lend  themselves  to  "Japan- 

esey"  arrangements  and  have  an  airy  grace  which  is  very  charming. 

The  following  shrubs  and  trees  are  useful  for  above  treatment: 


Bladder  Senna  (Colutea  arbor escens) .     Light 

yellow. 
Cornelian  Cherry  (Cornus  Mas).     Yellow. 
Deutzia  gracilis.     White. 
Flowering  Almond.    (Prunus  triloba).  Pink. 
Flowering  Currant  (Ribes  aureum) .  Yellow. 
Fragrant  Honeysuckle   (Lonicera  fragrant- 

issima).    White  and  pinkish. 
Golden  Bell  {Forsythia  suspensa,  viridissima, 

Fortunei).      Forces  very  quickly.  Yellow. 
Hazle  {Corylus  americana).     Brown. 
Japanese  Cherry  {Cerasus  rosea  plena) .  Pink. 
Japanese  Quince  {Cydonia  japonica).    Pink 

and  red,  very  beautiful. 


Kerria  japonica.     Yellow. 

Mock  Orange  (Philadelphus).     White. 

Parkman's  Crab  (Pyrus  Halliana).     Deep 

pink. 
Pea  Tree  {Caragana  frutescens) .    Yellow. 
Pearl  Bush  (Exochorda  grandiflora) .    White. 
Pussy     Willow     (Salix     discolor).       Gray. 

Forces  very  quickly. 
Red  Bud  {Cercis  canadensis  and  japonica). 

Pinkish  lavender. 
Shad    Bush    {Amelanchier    canadensis    and 

botryapium).     White  and  pink. 
Thunberg's    Spiraea    {SpircBa    Thunbergii) 

White,  light  and  airy;  very  good. 


BLOOMING  DATES  OF  TREES,  SHRUBS  AND  CLIMBERS 

T-Tree  S-Shrub  C-Climber 

♦Indicates  that  blooming  period  is  likely  to  extend  beyond  the  date  under  which  it  is  classed. 
(Revised  from  a  list  by  Samuel  N.  Baxter  and  compiled  for  the  latitude  of  Philadelphia, 
North  and  south  of  that  city  the  blooming  dates  will  be  respectively  later  and  earlier. 

April  1  to  15  Height  Color  of 

Botanical  Name  Common  Name  Group     (ft.)  Flowers 

*Daphne  Mezereum  album Mezereon  Daphne  S  3  White 

Lonicera  fragrantissima Bush  Honeysuckle S  6  White 


A  clump  of  White  Lilac 


BLOOMING  DATES,  TREES,  SHRUBS,  CLIMBERS       59 


Cornus  Mas Cornelian  Cherry S 

♦Magnolia  stellata Dwarf  Magnolia S 

♦Forsythia  suspensa "Weeping  Golden  Bell S 

♦Acer  rubrum*. Red  Maple T 

♦Acer  platanoides Norway  Maple T 

♦Benzoin  sestivale Spice  Bush S 

Spiraea  Thunbergii Thunberg'a  Spiraea S 

AprU  16  to  30. 

Magnolia  conspicua Yulan  T 

Magnolia  Soulangeana Soulange's  Magnolia T 

Magnolia  Kobus  Japanese  Magnolia T 

Cerasus  Avium  alba,  and  rosea 

plena Double-flowering  Cherry..  T 

Cerasus  Sieboldi  rubra  plena.. .  .  Double-flowering  Cherry. T 

♦Cercis  japonica Japanese  Judas  Tree S 

♦Cercis  canadensis. Red  Bud T 

♦Andromeda  japonica Japanese  Fetter  Bush . .  . .  S 

♦Leucothoe  Catesbsei Leucothoe S 

♦Pyrus  japonica Japanese  Quince S 

♦Spiraea  prunifolia Bridal  Wreath S 

♦Citrus  trifoliata Hardy  Trifoliate  Orange.  .S 

♦Prunus  (Amygdalus)  Persica.. .  .Flowering  Peach T 

♦Prunus  (Amygdalus)  nana Flowering  Almond S 

♦Sassafras  officinale Sassafras T 

♦Amelanchier  Botryapium Juneberry,  or  Shad  Bush .  S 

♦Exochorda  grandiflora Pearl  Bush S 

Ostrya  virginiana Iron  wood  (catkins) T 

♦Syringa  oblata Early  Lilac S 

♦Ribes   aureum   and  eanguin- 

eum Flowering  Currant S 

♦Prunus  Pissardi Purple  Plum S 

Corylopsis  pauciflora ^ S 

♦Rhus  aromatica Aromatic  Sumac S 

May  1  to  15 

♦Staphylea  colchica Bladder-nut S 

♦Rhodotypos  kerrioides White  Kerria S 

♦Kerria  japonica Globe  Flower S 

♦Cornus  fiorida  and  rubra Flowering  Dogwood T 

Wistaria  sinensis  and  alba Chinese  Wistaria C 

Pyrus   (Malus)    Parkmanni 

(Halliana) Flowering  Apple T 

Pyrus  coronaria,  loensis Flowering  Apple T 

Pyrus  floribunda  atropurpurea 

and  Schiedeckeri Flowering  Apple T 

Magnolia  Lennei  and  Meehanii. Purple  Magnolias T 

Magnolia  Fraseri .  Fraser's  Magnolia T 

Magnolia  gracilisand  purpurea..  Bush  Magnolias S 

♦^sculus  Hippocastanum White  Horse  Chestnut.. .  .T 

♦.^sculus  rubicunda Red  Horse  Chestnut T 

♦Xanthoceras  sorbifolia Chinese  Flowering  Chest- 
nut  S 

Azalea  amoena Evergreen  Azalea S 

Azaleas  pontica  and  mollis Ghent  and  Chinese 

Azaleas S 

Azalea   nudiflora Wood  Honeysuckle S 

Azalea   Vaseyi Carolina  Azalea S 

Rhodora  canadensis Rhodora  S 

♦Elseagnus  longipes  and  umbel- 

latus Silver  Thorn S 

♦Cerasus  Padus,  pennsylvanica 

andpumila Bird  and  Dwarf  Cherries. T 

Crataegus  coccinea White  Thorn S 

Caragana  arborescens  and 

pendula Siberian  Pea S 

Halesia  tetraptera Silver  Bell,  or  Snowdrop.. .  S 

♦Berberis  vulgaris,  purpurea 

and  Thunbergii Common,   Purple  and 

Japanese  Barberry S 


15-20 

Yellow 

5-8 

White 

8 

Yellow 

15-100 

Pink 

100 

Yellow 

10-15 

Yellow 

5 

White 

50 

White 

15 

Pink 

80 

White 

25 

White,  pink 

15-25 

Red 

15-50 

Pink 

20 

Pink 

10-30 

White 

6 

White 

3-4 

White,  red 

6 

White 

15-20 

White 

10-25 

White,  yel.,  pk 

5 

White,  pink 

30-60 

Yellow 

25 

White 

6-8 

White 

30 

12 

Blue 

4-5 

Yellow,  red 

15-25 

White 

2-3 

Yellow 

3-8 

Yellow 

12 

White 

6 

White 

5-10 

Yellow 

20 

White,  pink 

20 

White,  blue 

20 

Pink 

20 

Pink 

10-15 

Red 

10-15 

Purple 

40 

White 

10 

Purple 

60-80 

White 

20-40 

Red 

15 

White      • 

1-8 

Pink 

3-5 

White,  yellow 

5-8 

Pink 

5-8 

Pink 

2 

Pink 

6-12 

White 

10-15 

White 

15 

White 

6-8 

Yellow 

20 

White 

4-6 


Yellow 


60 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Asimina  triloba Pawpaw T 

Akebia  quinata Akebia C 

♦Lonicera  grandiflora  rosea  and 

Morrowii Bush  Ploneysuckle S 

Mahonia  aquifolia Oregon  Grapes S 

*Paulownia  imperialis Empress  Tree T 

Pavia  rubra Dwarf  Horse  Chestnut       T 

*  Viburnum  Opulus  sterihs Common  Snowball S 

♦Viburnum  tomentosum Single  Japan  Snowball.. .  .S 

♦Viburnum  Sieboldi Siebold's  Snowball S 

♦Viburnum  Lantana '.  .  .Wayfaring  Tree S 

♦Robinia  hispida  rosea. Rose  Acacia S 

♦Weigela  rosea  and  Candida Diervillas. S 

♦Deutzia  Lemoinei  and  gracilis.  .Dwarf  Deutzia S 

Daphne  Genkwa  and  Cneorum.  Daphne S 

♦Calycanthus  floridus Sweet  Shrub  S 

*Sorbus  Aucuparia Mountain  Ash T 

♦Fraxinus  Ornus Flowering  Ash T 

♦Genista  scoparia Scotch  Broom S 

♦Syringa  vulgaris  and  alba.  ....  .Common  Lilac S 

♦Syringa  rothomagensis  (chi- 

nensis) Rouen  Lilac S 

♦Syringa,  French  naihed  va- 
rieties  Improved    Single   and 

Double  Lilac S 

Sambucus  pubens Red-berried  Elder S 

♦Tamarix  africana Tamarisk S 

♦Spirsea  Van  Houttei Van  Houtte's  Spiraea  .  .  .  .S 

Xanthorrhiza  apiifolia Yellow  Root S 


10-40 

Brown 

12 

Purple 

6 

"W^hite,  pink 

2-4 

Pink 

40 

Purple 

5-7 

Red 

8 

White 

6-8 

White 

6 

White 

10-15 

White 

4-5 

Pink 

4-5 

White,  pink 

3-5 

White 

1 

Pink 

3-5 

Reddish  bro-.\  n 

30-40 

White 

25 

White 

3 

Yellow 

12-15 

White 

10-12 

Blue 

10-12 

White,  pk.,  etc. 

6-8 

White 

15 

Pink 

5-6 

white 

10-20 

Brown 

May  16  to  30 


.Flame  Azalea S 


Azalea  calendulacea 

Staphylea  trifoliata  and  Bu- 

malda American  and   Japanese 

Bladder-nut S 

♦Clematis  Named  Hybrids Large-flowering  Clematis .  C 

♦Robinia  pseudo-acacia Yellow  or  Black  Locust..  .C 

♦Crataegus  Oxyacantha  and 

Paul's  Scarlet English  Hawthorns S 

♦Chionanthus  virginica White  Fringe S 

Neviusia  alabamensis Snow  Wreath S 

♦Laburnum  vulgare Golden  Chain T 

♦Rosa  rugosa  and  alba Japanese  Roses S 

♦Rhododendron  hybrids Named  Hybrids S 

♦Viburnum  plicatum Japan  Snowball S 

♦Syringa  persioa  and  alba Persian  Lilacs S 

Syringa  Emodi  (villosa) Lilac S 

Syringa  pubescens Lilac S 

Cerasus  serotina Wild  Cherry T 

Spirsea  Reevesiana Reeves'  Spiraea S 

Cornus  alba Red-stem   Dogwood S 

♦Viburnum  Opulus High  Bush  Cranberry .  .  .  .  S 

♦Viburnum  prunifolium Sheepberry S 

Photinia  villosa Photinia S 

♦Liriodendron  tulipifera Tulip  Tree T 

Magnolia  tripetala Umbrella  Tree T 

♦Weigela  Eva  Rathke Crimson  Diervilla S 

Wistaria  multijuga  and  alba. . .  .Japan  Wistarias C 

♦Styrax  obassia Storax T 

♦Stephanandra  fliexuosa Stephanandra S 

♦Philadelphua  coronarius Mock  Orange S 

♦Philadelphus  Lemoinei Lemoine's  Mock  Orange     S 

June  1  to  15. 

♦Bignonia  capreolata Trumpet  Vine C 

♦Hydrangea  scandens Climbing  Hydrangea C 

♦Lonicera  Halleana Hall's  Honeysuckle C 


4-10        Red 


6-8 

White 

White,  pk.,  blue 

80 

White 

15-20 

Red,  white,  pi; 

20-30 

White 

3-6 

White 

20 

Yellow 

3-5 

White,  pink 

6-12 

White,  pic.,  re<: 

6-8 

White 

5-10 

White,  blue 

8 

Pink 

6 

White 

80 

White 

4 

White 

8-10 

White 

12 

White 

15 

White 

15 

White 

150-190 

Yellow 

40 

White 

5-6 

Blue 

White,  purple 

30 

White 

5 

White 

8-10 

White 

3-6 

White 

50 

Yellow 

80 

White 

15 

White,  yellow 

BLOOMING  DATES,  TREES,  SHRUBS,  CUMBERS      61 


♦Lonicera  sempervirens Coral  Honeysuckle C 

Robinia  viscosa Clammy  Locust T 

Gleditschia  triacanthos Honey  Locust. T 

Andromeda  (Pieris)  Mariana.  .  .  Stagger-Bush S 

Halesia  diptera Silver  Bell,  or    Snowdrop.  S 

Cladrastis  tinctoria Yellow  Wood .' T 

Crataegus  crus-galli Cockspur  Thorn S 

Kalmia  latifolia  and  angusti- 

folia Mountain  Laurel S 

Syringa  pekinensis Chinese  Lilac S 

Syringa  Josikaea Lilac S 

Magnolia  acuminata Cucumber  Tree T 

Magnolia  macrophylla Broad-leaf  Magnolia.  . .  .T 

Magnolia  glauca Sweet  Bay T 

•^Deutzia  crenata  and  Pride  of 

Rochester Tall  Deutzia S 

♦Ligustrum  Regelianum  and 

vulgare Regal     and     Common 

Privet S 

Viburnum  dentatum Arrow-wood S 

Viburnum  acerifolium Maple-leaved  Viburnum.  .S 

Styrax  japonica Japanese  Storax S 

Stuartia  japonica Stuartia S 

Pterostyrax  hispida Wistaria  Tree T 

*Sambucus  racemosus  and 

laciniata Elderberry S 

Rosa  multiflora  and  rubiginosa.  Japanese  and  Sweet  Brier 

Rose S 

Colutea  arborescens Bladder  Senna S 

*Cornus  paniculataand  sericea.  .Cornel and  Silky  Dog- 
wood  S 

Wistaria  frutescens Native  Wistaria C 

Wistaria  magnifica Native  Wistaria C 

Physocarpus  (Spiraea)  opulifolia.  Nine  Bark S 

♦Spiraea  Billardi Billard's  Spiraea S 

*Amorpha  fruticosa  and  canes- 

cens False  Indigo  and  Lead 

Plant S 

♦Ceanothus  americana Jersey  Tea S 

Gymnocladus  canadensis Kentucky  Coffee T 

June  16  to  30. 

♦Hydrangea  quercifolia Oak-leaf  Hydrangea S 

♦Hydrangea  grandiflora  alba Hydrangea S 

♦Spiraea  sorbifolia Ash-leaf  Spiraea S 

♦Rosa  lucida  and  setigera Prairie  Rose S 

♦Rhododendron  maximum Rosebay  or  Great  Laurel. S 

♦Spiraea  Bumalda  and  A. 

Waterer Spiraea S 

♦Tilia  americana American  Linden T 

Catalpa  speciosa Catalpa T 

Catalpa  bignonoides Catalpa T 

♦Rhus  Cotinus Purple  Fringe  or  Mist 

Bush S 

♦Rubus  odoratus Flowering  Raspberry S 

♦Hydrangea  paniculata  (Early 

flowering) Single  Hydrangea S 

♦Hydrangea  radiata Wild  Hydrangea S 

♦Hydrangea  arborescens Wild  Hydrangea S 

♦Hydrangea  hortensia Japanese  Hydrangea S 

♦Hydrangea  japonica  cserulea.  .Japanese  Hydrangea. .  . .  .3 

♦Yucca  filamentosa Adam's  Needle S 

Azalea  arborescens Fragrant  Azalea .S 

Azalea  viscosa Small  White  Azalea S 


30 

Red 

30-40 

White 

70-140 

White 

White 

30 

White 

30-40 

White 

15-20 

White 

5-8 

Pink 

15 

White 

12 

Purple 

90 

White 

50 

White 

10-12 

White 

6 

White,  pink 

8-10 

White 

15 

White 

6 

White 

30 

White 

50 

White 

25 

White 

10 

White 

10-12 

Pink 

10-15 

Pink 

5-8 

White 

30-40 

Blue 

30-40 

Blue 

9-10 

White 

5-6 

Pink 

10-15 

Blue 

2-3 

White 

100 

White 

6 

White 

25 

White 

4 

White 

4-6 

Pink 

10-35 

Pink 

2 

Pink 

80 

White 

100 

White 

20-50 

White 

10-20 

Purple 

3-6 

Pink 

20 

White 

6 

White 

4-10 

White 

8 

Pink,  blue 

8 

Pink,  blue 

5 

White 

8-20 

White 

4-8 

White 

NURSERY  STOCK  FROM  THE  WOODS  63 

How  to  Treat  Nursery  Stock  and  Material  Gathered 
from  the  Wild 

Trees  and  shrubs  in  nurseries  are  so  cultivated  and  transplanted 
that  their  roots  make  a  synunetrical  growth.  The  roots  are  thus  short 
and  branching  because  they  search  equally  on  both  sides  of  the  row 
for  food.  In  the  case  of  forest  specimens  they  may  have  to  go  several 
feet  for  an  opportunity  to  get  food;  furthermore,  the  only  opportunity 
for  food  may  be  in  one  direction.  The  roots  are  often  very  long^  and 
unbalanced,  and  when  the  trees  are  dug  the  few,  long  roots  are  seriously 
shortened.  The  precaution  in  using  material  from  the  woods  should  be 
carefully  to  prune  the  tops  proportionately,  supply  water  and  give 
extra,  painstaking  treatment. 

Two  Rose  Bed  Designs 


LOS  AmtUCS        CtiATfrA.U  PE  K^IS&R.)IH  /\UGUST/\^      SUNBUl^ST 

CLos    vouGfror  v\croTii\ 


li&RMOSA,  "RADl/VNCEr     l^DY  /\StironH 


A  Rose  bed,  4  ft.  by  16  ft.,  showing  a  planting  of  Hybrid  Tea  and  China  Roses 


0PI1£LI/k  J_AURe1S^CA^^i£:      GEM  JAiCG^UO^IWijT    DUCftess 

o  o  o 


A  Rose  bed,  6  ft.  by  16  ft.     Contains  both  Hybrid  Perpetuals  and  Hybrid  Teas. 

It  is  planned  to  be  surrounded  by  grass  paths.     As  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals  do 

not  bloom  throughout  the  Summer,  the  Hybrid  Teas  will  serve,  to  continue  to 

give  a  touch  of  color  to  the  bed 


Always  consult  Index  to  Contents.    Familiarize  yourself  with  it.    There 

are  hundreds  of  good  things  in  this  book  that  will  escape  your  attention 

if  you  do  not  use  tiie  Index  freely 


CHAPTER  V 


The  Rose  Garden 

Best  Soils— Width  of  Beds— Preparation  of  Soil— Time  to 
Plant — Distance  Apart — Summer  Treatment — Insects — Diseases 
—Kinds  of  Roses— Brier  Roses— Climbing  Roses— Tea  Roses- 
Hybrid  Teas — Hybrid  Perpetuals— Pernetiana,  Moss  and 
Polyantha  Roses 

NO  one  really  has  a  garden  without  some  Roses.  All  sorts  of  Roses 
are  admirable.  Everyone  says  the  same  things  about  the  location 
of  the  Rose  garden — that  it  must  be  sheltered  from  the  wind,  but 
not  surrounded,  so  that 
the  air  may  have  some 
circulation.  It  must  not 
be  in  the  proximity 
of  large,  water-robbing 
trees.  It  should  have 
sun  the  greater  part  of 
the  day.  Rut  everyone 
cannot  locate  his  Rose 
garden  in  an  ideal  spot. 
Fortunately  a  few  hardy, 
robust  kinds  can  be 
grown  under  rather  ad- 
verse conditions. 

Soils 

The  soil  best  suited 
for  Roses  is  usually  con- 
sidered to  be  a  medium 
heavy  clay  loam,  es- 
pecially for  Hybrid  Per- 
petuals, Rriers  and 
climbers.  The  Hybrid 
Teas  and  Teas  prefer  a 
lighter  soil.  The  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  Hybrid  Teas  and  Teas  require 
perfect  drainage. 

Width  of  Beds 

Roses  are  best  planted  in  beds.  If  they  are  to  be  worked  from 
both  sides,  five  or  six  feet  is  wide  enough  and  three  feet  is  the  proper 
width  for  beds  against  the  walls.    Reds  that  are  too  wide  necessitate 

64 


Rose  walk  at  a  country  home. 

This  arbor  is  covered  with  Prairie   Roses,  vars. 
Baltimore  Belle  and  Queen  of  Prairie 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


65 


I 


Sf  A  rustic  pergola. 

U  Such  pergolas  can  be  made  of  peeled  Oak  or  Pine,  or  of  any  durable 

branches  one  can  get — but  never  Birch;  that  won't  last  beyond  a 
V  season.    A  variety  of  vines  can  be  trained  here 

Stepping  in  them  when  picking  the  blooms  or  when  cultivating.  Narrow 
beds  are  poor  because  of  the  intrusion  of  grass  roots  upon  the  nourish- 
ment which  would  otherwise  go  to  the  Roses.  If  possible  it  is  best  to  re- 
serve the  Rose  beds  for  Roses  alone  and  not  attempt  growing  any 
other  plants  in  these  beds. 

Preparation  of  Soil 

Dr.  Huey  has  said  that  it  is  much  better  to  put  a  fifteen-cent 
Rose  bush  in  a  fifty-cent  hole  than  to  put  a  fifty-cent  Rose  bush  in  a 
fifteen-cent  hole.  The  preparation  of  the  beds  should  take  place  in 
the  Fall  in  order  that  the  soil  may  have  an  opportunity  to  settle. 

All  Rose  beds  should  be  dug  eighteen  inches  or  two  feet  deep.  The 
subsoil  should  be  loosened  and  thoroughly  manured,  then  fill  in  to  over 
half  the  depth  with  manured  top-soil  over  which  spread  a  good  layer 
of  compost.  By  compost  we  mean  soil  which  has  been  thoroughly  en- 
riched by  manure  (one  barrow  of  manure  to  three  of  soil)  and  bone- 
meal;  this  should  be  allowed  to  become  thoroughly  incorporated  with 
the  soil,  piling  alternate  layers  of  soil  and  manure  and  allowing  to 


66 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


remain  for  a  few  months  or  a  year.  When  the  bed  is  finished  it  should 
be  two  or  three  inches  above  the  normal  level.  The  main  secret  of 
successful  Rose  growing  hes  in  the  proper  preparation  of  the  bed. 

Time  to  Plant 

Spring  is  the  best  time  to  plant  the  Hybrid  Teas  and  Teas.  If 
the  beds  have  been  carefully  prepared  the  previous  Fall,  the  soil  will 
get  into  good  condition  quickly.  The  nursery  stored  plants  can  be  set 
out  as  soon  as  land  can  be  worked.  The  pot-grown  stock,  if  it  is  not 
crowded,  can  well  be  kept  till  May.  These  latter  plants  are  growing 
and  there  is  no  necessity  for  giving  a  check  by  planting  in  open  ground 
sooner.  If  the  stock  is  frosted  when  received,  cover  the  whole  plant 
with  soil  until  the  frost  is  drawn  out.  The  plants  are  often  rather  dry 
when  received ;  the  bark  is  shriveled  and  the  roots  brittle.  If  the  whole 
plant  is  either  buried  in  soil  or  placed  in  water  before  planting,  it  w  ill 
be  greatly  benefited.  In  planting  budded  or  grafted  Roses  remove  all 
buds  which  may  be  present  upon  the  stock  below  the  soil  and  prune  the 

broken  roots.  All  tops 
should  be  severely  cut 
back  so  that  each 
bears  three  to  four 
eyes;  this  is  especially 
necessary  and  should 
not  be  neglected.  The 
roots  should  bespread 
naturally  and  in  the 
case  of  budded  plants, 
so  placed  that  the 
point  budded  is  two 
or  three  inches  below 
the  surface  of  the  soil. 
It  is  absolutely  neces- 
sary to  plant  very 
firmly;  the  soil  must 
be  filled  in  about  the 
roots  most  carefully 
and  made  soHd.  The  hole  should  not  be  entirely  fiUed,  but  the  plant 
should  be  watered,  after  which  dry  soil  is  placed  on  top  to  prevent 
baking. 

Distance  Apart 
Teas  are  best  planted  fifteen  inches,  Hybrid  Teas  eighteen  inches, 
Hybrid  Perpetuals  three  feet  and  Rugosas  or  Moss  Roses  four  feet 
apart.    Varieties  will  differ  greatly  as  to  the  amount  of  spa.Qe  needed., 


Showing  the  di£Ference  in  foliage  between  a  sucker 
"B"  and  a  good  strong  shoot  "A" 

A — Typical  Rose  leaf  with  five  leaflets.     B — Typical  leaf 
of  a  "sucker"  or  Brier  with  nine  leaflets 


THE  ROSE  GARDEN 


67 


Summer  Treatment 

Keep  the  soil  continually  cultivated  to  retain  as  much  moisture 
as  possible;  the  stirring  need  not  be  deep,  otherwise  roots  are  injured. 
A  mulch  of  lawn  clippings  is  beneficial.  Each  time  a  new  supply  is 
ready  the  other  will  have  been  dried  and  worked  into  the  soil.  After 
every  rain  the  soil  should  be  loosened.  A  good  syringing  of  water  every 
day  from  the  start  of  the  season  will  go  a  long  way  toward  keeping  the 
insects  off.  The  time  for  syringing  is  morning  or  evening.  At  midday 
it  is  rather  injurious  to  the  foHage.  All  through  the  Summer  watch 
for  suckers;  they  usually  have  more  leaflets — five  to  seven,  the  garden 
varieties  having  but  three  to  five.  They  should  not  be  broken  off  but 
cut  down  to  the  roots.    (See  cut) . 

Cutting  Roses 

If  the  Roses  are  cut  properly  many  varieties  will  continue  to  bloom 
until  Autumn.  The  bud  should  be  cut  so  that  five-leaf  foHage  is  left 
upon  the  stem.  Refer  to  the 
sketch  below.  If  the  Rose  stem  is 
cut  at  C  there  is  only  a  three-leaf 
remaining  upon  the  stem;  such 
cuts  rarely  give  such  good  flower 
stems.  Cut  at  any  B  there  are 
five-leaves  left  and  flower  buds 
will  start  growth  very  soon.  Cut 
at  any  A  other  flower  stems  de- 
velop slowly,  if  at  all.  Cut  Roses 
then  to  a  five-leaf. 

Rose  Insects 

The  Rose  plant  louse  or  aphis 
is  one  of  the  commonest  pests;  it 
appears  on  the  young  growths  and 
reproduces  with  great  rapidity, 
soon  covering  the  plants.  The  tips 
of  branches  are  stunted  and  the 
buds  only  produce  deformed  flow- 
ers. The  daily  syringe  advocated 
elsewhere  will  do  much  to  lessen 
the  attacks,  for  the  insects  will  be 
washed  off  the  plants.  Whale  oil 
soap  (one  pound  to  ten  gaUons  of 
water),  or  some  reliable  nicotine 
preparation  will  surely  kill  them. 


"Showing  where  to  cut  a  Rose  to  obtain 

more  flowers.     See  paragraph  above 

"Cutting  Roses" 


68 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


X  <» 


THE  ROSE  GARDEN 


There  are  several  Rose  slugs.  In  each  case  they  are  worms  which 
skeletonize  the  leaves  and  even  attack  the  plant  when  the  leaves  first 
unfold.  Arsenate  of  lead  (one  pound  arsenate  of  lead  to  twenty -five 
gallons  of  water)  is  effective,  but  even  water  will  check  them  if  applied 
with  force.  Hellebore  is  good  dusted  on  the  leaves;  it  should  first  be 
diluted  to  half  its  weight  with  flour  or  plaster. 

The  leaf  hoppers  can  be  controlled  by  spraying  with  tobacco  ex- 
tract on  under  side  of  leaves.  The  Rose  leaf  roller  can  be  controlled 
with  arsenate  of  lead.  There  is  also  the  Rose  scale,  which  can  easily 
be  washed  from  the  canes  with  corrosive  subli- 
mate or  on  a  large  scale  sprayed  with  lime 
sulphur,  or  the  canes  burned. 

The  Rose  beetle  is  especially  prevalent  on 
sandy  soils.  It  appears  in  early  Summer,  feeding 
on  leaves  and  flowers.  Hand  picking  is  really 
necessary.  They  should  be  dropped  into  kero- 
sene. The  larvae  feed  on  roots  of  Rose  plants. 
Some  persons  have  lessened  the  injury  from  Rose 
bugs  by  allowing  chickens  to  have  the  run  of  the 
Rose  beds  for  several  hours  a  day  in  May,  when 
the  larvse  are  coming  out  of  the  ground. 


Screen  for  the  side  or 
back  of  a  house. 

Grape  vines  may  be 
used,  but  they  must 
be  kept  free  of  insects 
and  other  "crawly 
things."  Ampf'lopsis, 
Clematis  or  Wichura- 
iana  Roses  also  can  be 
recommended 


Rose  Diseases 

Mildew  causes  a  powdery  efl'ect  upon  leaves. 
It  is  especially  prevalent  upon  the  Crimson 
Ramblers  and  Moss  Roses.  It  appears  when 
the  nights  are  cool  and  days  are  hot  and  sultry, 
and  disfigures  the  plant,  but  does  not  aff'ect  the 
next  year's  crop  of  flowers.  Powdered  Sulphur  upon  the  leaves  is 
used  as  a  control. 

Black  Spot  is  the  most  serious  disease  of  the  American  Beauty 
and  other  Hybrid  Perpetuals.  It  is  confined  to  the  foliage  and  appears 
in  Midsummer.  It  looks  like  a  black  or  purple  spot  one-quarter  inch 
in  diameter;  the  blotches  more  evident  on  the  upper  surface.  When 
the  patches  are  examined  they  will  be  found  to  have  a  fine  mycefium 
growing  on  them  which  causes  premature  defohation.  The  leaves 
should  always  be  removed  if  possible.  Spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture 
(3-5-50),  or  other  copper  fungicides. 

Leaf-scroch,  when  severe,  causes  the  infected  areas  of  the  leaf 
to  drop  out.  The  canes  are  also  attacked.  The  wild  Roses,  too,  are  in- 
fested.   The  best  control  is  to  use  copper  fungicides. 

Rose  Rust  is  especially  prevalent  on  hardy  varieties.  It  has 
Summer  spores  and  Winter  spores  and  attacks  canes  as  well  as  leaves. 


70 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


The  best  preventive  is  the  removal  and  burning  of  all  rusted  canes. 

Rose  Canker  appears  as  a  warty  growth  on  the  canes;  excrescences 

on  wood.    It  can  only  be  cut  out  when  found.    It  is  caused  by  a  fungus. 

Kinds  of  Garden  Roses 

Most  of  the  Roses  mentioned  in  the  following  pages  are  favorites 
in  the  North ;  many  other  varieties  can  be  tried  in  less  severe  climates 
— which  refers  also  to  the  northern  part  of  the  Pacific  coast. 

Rrier  Roses.  There  is  a  huge  group  of  shrubby  or  Rrier  Roses. 
On  the  whole,  they  are  hardy  and  grow  under  adverse  conditions. 
Some  of  them  will  be  useful  for  making  a  hedge.  If  a  Rose  garden  is 
to  be  made,  plan  it  in  the  Winter  and  make  preparations  to  surround 
it  with  a  row  of  Rriers. 

No  Rose  is  hardier,  freer-blooming  and  more  disease-resistant 
than  the  Japanese  Rugged  Rose,  or  Rosa  rugosa.     Rearing  single 


Rambler  Rose  Covered  Summer    House 

Such  a  structure  as  is  shown  here  can  be  made  by  the  man  of  the  house  or  a  local  handy 

man  with  tools 


and  double,  crimson,  pink  or  white  flowers,  it  is  the  first  one  to  place 
in  the  hedge.  There  are  a  number  of  rugosa  hybrids  which  are  ad- 
mirable. 

Of  charming  fragrance  and  exquisite  colors  are  the  Penzance 
hybrids.    Lord  Penzance,  a  hybridizer  of  Roses,  used  the  standard 


THE  ROSE  GARDEN  71 

garden  varieties  of  Roses  and  crossed  them  with  the  Sweet  Rrier. 
The  result  is  a  wonderful  group  of  Roses  with  Apple-scented  leaves  and 
delicate  pinkish  orange,  salmon  and  rose-pink  single  flowers. 

We  must  not  pass  over  the  early  yellow  Roses,  two  of  which  are  of 
great  importance.  The  earliest  and  lighter  yeUow  Rose  seen  in  every 
old-fashioned  garden  is  the  Persian  yellow  and  a  few  days  or  weeks 
later  the  golden  yellow  variety,  which  is  shghtly  tinged  with  red  on 
some  of  the  center  petals,  is  Harrison's  Yellow.  The  fohage  of  this 
latter  Rose  is  charming;  it  is  a  pity  that  these  two  Roses  bloom  but 
once  a  year.  Another  fine  Rrier  well  worthy  of  selection  is  the  Prairie 
Rrier,  Rosa  setigera,  and  as  it  has  a  tendency  to  climb,  should  be  given 
some  sort  of  a  treUis  or  fence.  It  blooms  late  and  bears  huge  pink 
single  flowers  in  large  trusses. 

Climbing  Roses.  While  we  are  speaking  of  a  trelhs  for  the 
Prairie  Rose,  let  us  also  say  a  word  for  the  climbing  Roses.  They 
can  well  be  planted  around  our  httle  garden  or  they  can  be  trained  on 
poles,  or  on  the  porches.  The  old  Crimson  Rambler  is  disliked  by 
many  people  because  it  gets  buggy  and  mildewed.  Instead,  plant 
Excelsa,  which  is  the  hardiest  and  most  briUiant  crimson  climber  we 
have.  The  finest  fight  pink  is  without  doubt  the  Dorothy  Perkins;  its 
clean  fofiage,  dainty  buds  and  abundance  of  bloom  are  highly  admired. 
Tausendschon,  or  Thousand  Reauties,  is  indeed  another  peerless  pink; 
the  individual  flowers  are  large  and  stand  out  prominently  in  the 
trusses;  the  color,  which  is  deep  pink  upon  opening,  changing  later  to 
white,  is  exquisite.  A  beautiful  climbing  Rose,  with  clusters  of  single 
deep  crimson  flowers,  is  Hiawatha.  ^ 

A  large-flowering  variety,  and  one  on  which  the  flowers  are  pro- 
duced very  profusely,  is  the  Christine  Wright.  The  blooms  are  in 
smaU  clusters  and  are  of  a  clear  wild-rose  pink.  The  plants  are  some- 
times not  great  climbers,  but  they  are  effective,  at  least  at  the  base 
of  the  piUar.  Dr.  W.  Van  Fleet  is  a  leader  in  the  hardy  climbing  class 
— a  sturdy,  rapid  grower,  with  healthy,  deep  green  fofiage  and  bearing 
a  great  profusion  of  large  flowers,  the  long,  pointed  buds  opening  a 
deficate  flesh-pink  color. 

The  yeUows  are  rather  too  tender  to  be  reaUy  climbers.  Aglaia  is 
beautiful,  being  deep  golden  yeUow  in  bud.  Gardenia  is  the  finest 
yeUow  climber  and  succeeds  nicely  in  central  Ohio.  The  flowers  are 
like  Gardenias  and  the  fofiage  is  glossy,  firm  and  brilfiant.  The  pretty 
glossy  fofiage  of  many  of  these  Roses  has  been  derived  from  the 
Memorial  Rose  (R.  Wichuraiana) .  The  Memorial  Rose  is  very  useful 
as  a  ground  cover,  being  unexceUed  for  covering  waste  land,  and 
trespassing  upon  steep  banks  can  be  successfuUy  prevented  by  planting 
this  Rose. 


72  GARDEN  GUIDE 

The  Tea  Roses.  The  Teas  really  are  perpetual  blooming;  they 
have  exquisite  colors  and  thick,  leathery  petals;  besides  this,  their  buds 
are  pointed,  but  they  are  tender  and  should  receive  good  protection. 
The  snow-white  Maman  Gochet  is  large,  fragrant  and  productive; 
the  color  becomes  a  trifle  pink  in  the  Fall.  The  buds  of  Lady  Hilhng- 
don,  deep  apricot-yellow  in  color,  are  certainly  irresistible  for  cutting. 
Marie  Van  Houtte,  whose  color  can  be  described  either  as  a  pink 
shaded  cream  white  or  vice  versa,  is  also  charming. 

The  Hybrid  Teas.  In  the  Hybrid  Teas  are  combined  some  of  the 
hardiness  of  the  Hybrid  Perpetual  as  well  as  the  more  or  less  perpetual 
blooming  quality,  and  the  richness  of  coloring  and  beauty  of  form  of 
the  Teas.  The  array  of  good  varieties  is  almost  endless.  Among  the 
pinks  the  first  that  deserves  to  be  recognized  is  Jonkheer  J.  L.  Mock, 
that  beautiful  Rose,  the  outside  of  the  petals  of  which  are  much  lighter 
in  color.  The  flowers  are  very  fragrant  and  the  stem  erect  and  strong. 
The  Killarney  Rrilhant  is  much  superior  to  the  Pink  Killarney,  but  it 
is  rather  more  single  than  the  other  pink  varieties;  although  it  opens 
quickly  it  remains  for  some  time  before  shattering  and  is  remarkable 
for  its  freedom  of  bloom.  We  cannot  pass  Lady  Ahce  Stanley  with- 
out recognition.  The  color  is  a  lovely  coral-rose,  the  inside  a  Httle 
lighter.  The  flowers  are  nearly  perfect  in  form,  color,  fragrance  and 
size.  The  popular  Caroline  Testout,  which  is  used  extensively  upon 
the  streets  of  Portland,  Oregon,  is  a  superb  bedding  variety.  Other  fine 
pink  varieties  are  Mrs.  A.  R.  Waddell,  Souvenir  du  President  Carnot, 
Mrs.  George  Shawyer,  Lady  Ashtown,  Dean  Hole,  La  France. 

The  most  superb  lemon  white  variety  is,  no  doubt,  Kaiserin 
Augusta  Victoria ;  it  is  constantly  in  bloom  and  has  a  superior  elegance 
which  makes  it  the  best  white  Hybrid  Tea. 

In  reds  we  have,  first,  Gruss  an  Teplitz,  a  velvety  rich  glowing 
crimson  and  very  sweet.  It  is  never  out  of  bloom  from  Spring  until 
frost.  A  dazzling  color  is  displayed  by  the  variety  Chateau  de  Clos 
Vougeot;  it  is  not  a  strong  grower  but  a  continual  bloomer.  Laurent 
Carle  is  much  fighter  than  the  other  red  varieties  mentioned ;  it  is  a  car- 
mine and  intensely  fragrant.  Etoile  de  France  bears  a  very  double, 
cup-formed  flower  of  deep  crimson.  Other  good  reds  are  Lieutenant 
Chaure  and  Mary  Countess  of  Ilchester. 

Among  the  sahnony  or  coppery  shades.  Sunburst  is  one  of  the  most 
successfully  grown.  It  is  superior  to  Mrs.  Aaron  Ward  in  color  and 
form.  Another  is  Ophefia,  a  more  decided  pink  salmon  than  Sunburst, 
and  a  variety  which  has  been  received  throughout  the  Rose  world 
with  enthusiasm.  Mrs.  Arthur  Robert  Waddell  is  free  flowering; 
though  rather  small,  it  is  a  superb  salmon  rose  with  a  golden  sheen. 

It  is  difiicult  to  know  where  to  place  some  Roses,  such  as  the  in- 


THE  ROSE  GARDEN 


73 


comparable  Mme.  Edouard  Herriot,  the  "Daily  Mail"  Rose,  which  is 
described  by  its  introducer,  Pernet-Ducher,  as  "coral  red,  shaded  at 
the  base  with  yellow."  Another  has  described  the  color  as  appearing 
like  "sunshine  upon  a  copper-red  metal."  It  is  a  splendid  variety  and 
worthy  of  acquaintance.    One  variety,  a  rich  yellow,  suffused  carmine, 


The  sort  of  garden  we  all  delight  in.    Baby  Dorothy  Rose  and 
Baby  Tausendschon  Roses  are  massed  around  the  sundial 


commands  the  attention  of  all;  it  is  Marquise  de  Sinety,  a  semi-double 
and  very  fragrant. 

The  Hybrid  Perpetuals.  The  word  "perpetual"  in  the  title  of 
this  group  is  a  misnomer;  they  are  not  perpetual.  They  have  resulted 
from  a  cross  between  the  Tea,  a  perpetual  Rose  and  the  various  groups 


74  GARDEN  GUIDE 

of  very  hardy  Roses,  so  that  they  are  hardy,  but  not  in  many  cases 
do  they  bloom  a  second  time.  They  are  the  vigorous  varieties  for 
general  use.  It  is  difficult  to  say  of  this  class  of  Roses  "Here  is  a  hst 
of  the  best  twelve."  Someone  will  surely  remark:  "Why,  he  does  not 
even  know  the  best  variety  of  them  all."  Nevertheless,  we  all  agree 
that  Frau  Karl  Druschki  is  the  finest  white.  The  buds  are  handsome 
and  it  seems  to  bloom  for  a  longer  season  than  most.  If  you  leave  out 
Clio  from  your  planting  you  would  miss  a  very  beautiful  flesh  pink. 
Another,  and  a  free  bloomer,  is  Mrs.  R.  G.  Sharman-Grawford.  A 
bright  cherry  red,  a  fine  and  rather  new  Rose,  which  is  always  suc- 
cessful, is  Gloire  de  Chedane  Guinoisseau;  perhaps  an  improvement 
upon  Ulrich  Brunner.  Prince  Camille  de  Rohan  and  Hugh  Dickson 
are  both  deep  velvety  crimsons.  Paul  Neyron  is  the  largest  deep 
pink  variety,  frequently  criticized  for  being  to©  coarse  and  large. 
The  Jack  Rose,  or,  as  it  is  called  in  the  catalogs.  General  Jacque- 
minot, does  well  everwhere;  it  is  a  brilhant  scarlet  crimson.  Another 
excellent  strong  grower  and  a  deep  scarlet  is  J.  B.  Clark.  A  very  sweet 
and  perfectly  formed  crimson  carmine  is  the  variety  Captain  Hay  ward. 
Mme.  Masson  is  a  Hybrid  Perpetual  which  produces  blooms  at  in- 
tervals during  Summer  and  Fall.  It  is  a  sweet-scented  crimson.  Cap- 
tain Christy  bears  a  full  flower  which  is  tinted  white  and  pale  blush. 
Magna  Charta  is  always  admired  for  its  vigor  of  growth  and  its  bright, 
rosy  pink  flowers,  which  possess  great  substance. 

Pernetiana.  a  group  of  Roses  of  recent  interest  has  been  de- 
veloped by  crossing  Harrison's  Yellow  with  other  types.  The  result 
is  a  group  of  yellowish  Roses  known  as  Pernetiana  Roses,  from  their 
introducer,  Pernet.  Two  deep  yellow  varieties  of  great  beauty  are 
Soleil  d'Or  and  Rayon  d'Or. 

Moss  Rose.  The  Moss  Rose,  with  its  bud  encircled  by  a  delicate 
mossy  covering,  holds  a  strong  attraction  for  all.  It  is  surprising  that 
the  interesting  variety.  Hat  of  Napoleon,  is  not  more  planted.  In 
France  it  is  called  Chapeau  de  Napoleon.  It  is  mossier  than  others. 
The  large,  piu-e  white  buds  of  Blanche  Moreau  are  classical  examples 
of  the  Moss  Rose.  The  pink  Crested  Moss  and  the  bright  red  Henry 
Martin  are  also  splendid  varieties. 

Polyanthas 

The  Polyanthas  are  the  Baby  Ramblers.  How  useful  they  are  for 
low  beds  or  when  used  as  a  sort  of  hedge  in  an  intimate  area.  The 
common  variety  is  Baby  Rambler,  or  Mme.  N.  Levavasseur,  but 
there  are  many  superior  sorts,  such  as  Triomphe  Orleanais  and  Erna 
Teschendorff,  of  this  color.  In  pink  Clothilde  Soupert  and  Mrs. 
Cutbush  are  the  best.    Catherine  Zeimet  is  the  standard  white. 


CHAPTER  VI 

Hardy  Perennials  for  the  Permanent 

Garden 

Combinations  of  Perennials — Considerations  for  a  Perennial 
Border — Situation  of  Border — Preparation  of  Soil— Planting — 
Spring  Planting — Autumn  Planting — Cultivation — Staking — 
Removal  of  Old  Flowers  and  Seed  Pods — Necessity  for  Replant- 
ing— List  of  Indispensable  Hardy  Perennials — General  Selection 
of  Hardy  Flowers — Medium  Tall  Perennials — Dwarf  Perennials — 
Plans  for  Perennial  Borders 

BY  hardy  plants  we  mean  those  perennial  herbaceous  plants 
which  will  live  a  number  of  years  and  will  stand  the  cold  in  the 
Northern  regions.  We  use  the  word  "herbaceous"  to  contrast 
them  with  shrubs  and  trees,  for  it  means  that  they  die  down  to  the  soil 
each  year.     Their  growth  is  soft,  not  woody. 

It  may  be  asked  why  we  talk  so  much  about  the  proper  care  of  this 
or  that  perennial  when  on  the  whole  the  commonest  ones  merely  need  a 
medium  good  soil  and  their  competitors,  the  weeds,  removed.  The  reply 
is  that  we  should  not  be  content  with  Peonies,  Phlox,  or  Iris  unless  they 
are  grown  to  perfection,  or  unless  we  have  the  finest  varieties. 

We  are  interested  in  a  particular  flower  often  because  it  seems  to 
possess  a  certain  shape,  color,  or  thrifty  habit,  which  we  admire.  Our 
interest  broadens  when  we  prefer  to  get  a  great  many  varieties  of  the 
same  flower.  Finally,  we  are  even  interested  in  its  botanical  relatives. 
It  is  then  that  we  become  "cranks"  and  thoroughly  know  and  truly 
enjoy  a  chosen  favorite. 

Perennials  are  adapted  to  such  a  range  of  soils  and  climates  that 
we  can  surely  find  something  beautiful  to  suit  our  situation  exactly. 
If  our  land  is  very  rocky  and  shallow  we  must  govern  our  selection  of 
perennials  accordingly,  and  we  can  follow  nature  quite  closely  in 
choosing  the  sort  of  plants  to  use. 

Each  garden  should  be  our  own,  and  should  express  our  likes  in  color 
and  combination,  but  we  must  be  governed  by  good  taste,with  the  posses- 
sion of  which  some  are  born,  while  by  others  it  must  be  acquired.  The 
observations  of  others  often  make  us  able  to  choose  wisely  for  ourselves. 

Combinations  of  Perennials 

A  planting  of  dehcate  pink  Hollyhocks,  in  front  of  which  we  place 
a  good  clump  of  white  Phlox,  is  to  be  much  commended.  Similarly, 
the  Phlox  will  combine  nicely  with  Delphinium. 

75 


76 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


A  bed  of  Peonies,  in  which  have  been  planted  some  Lilium  specio- 
sum,  rubrum  and  album,  is  good;  the  Peonies  will  have  finished  flower- 
ing before  the  Lihes  begin. 

Huge  beds  of  German  Iris  of  one  variety  are  shown  by  themselves, 
but  since  they  are  out  of  bloom  before  July  1st  it  is  well  to  have  some- 
thing to  maintain  the  beauty.  A  few  attractive  shrubs  are  then 
useful.  Especially  decorative  are  Viburnum  Opulus  and  some  of  the 
Honeysuckles  which  produce  ornamental  berries. 

Coreopsis  lanceolata  and  a  deep  violet  blue  Delphinium  make 

an  excellent  contrast. 

Another  yellow  and  blue 
combination  is  Speedwell 
(Veronica  spicata)  with  Even- 
ing Primrose  ((Enothera  mis- 
souriensis) .  The  slender  spikes 
of  the  Speedwell  contrast  nice- 
ly with  the  large,  brilhant  yel- 
low flowers  of  the  Evening 
Primrose. 

Probably  no  flower  of  the 
Autumn  is  so  graceful  and 
welcome  as  the  lovely  Japanese 
Anemone.  Excellent  white  and 
pink  varieties  are  available. 
As  they  make  no  eff'ect  till 
mid-September  they  are  best 
combined  with  a  tall,  ornamen- 
tal grass  which  will  give  a  good 
background. 

The  large  group  of  perennial 
Asters,  or  Michaelmas  Daisies, 
should  not  be  forgotten;  they 
are  the  charm  of  the  real  late 
Fall  garden.  Planted  at  the 
rear  of  borders  they  make  an 
the  earlier  flowering  plants, 
ptarmicoides,    a    very    erect, 


Long  borders  of  hardy  flowers  growing  freely 
and  in  great  luxuriance.  The  arch  in  the  garden 
wall  focuses  the  view.  No  straight  trim  edges, 
yet  there  is  abundant  room  to  walk.  These 
borders  run   right   up   to   the   dwelling  house 


excellent  foHage  background  for 
Especially  noteworthy  is  the  Aster 
strong-growing  white  species  which  blooms  a  trifle  earher  than  some 
of  the  others.  A  truly  beautiful  Hght  blue  is  the  Beauty  of 
Colwall  and  a  good  pink  is  A.  Novi-Belgii  St.  Egwin.  A  very  late 
species,  five  to  six  feet  taU,  is  A.  tataricus;  it  possesses  excel- 
lent clean  fohage  and  bluish  violet  flowers.  One  of  the  largest 
flowering  sorts  is  A.  grandiflorus. 


HARDY  FLOWERS 


77 


The  Larkspurs  and  Monkshoods  (Aconitum)  are  planted  to 
advantage  in  conjunction  with  Madonna  Lilies  (Lilium  candidum). 
Spring  bulbs  are  often  combined  with  a  few  Adonis  amurensis,  a  very 
pretty  Httle  yellow-flowering  plant  with  finely  cut  leaves. 

Under  trees  where  grass  will  not  grow,  plant  some  Ajuga 
reptans.  Vinca  minor,  called  variously  Myrtle  and  Periwinkle,  is 
very  useful  as  it  spreads  rapidly,  is  evergreen  and  bears  pretty  blue 
flowers. 

In  every  home  yard  there  is  a  certain  small  area,  between  perhaps 
the  walk  and  the  wall,  which  it  would  be  advantageous  to  have  filled 
nicely  with  plants;  such  an  area  is  nicely  planted  to  Bishop's  Weed 
(y^gepodium).  This  plant  has  green  and  white  variegated  leaves  and 
thrives  in  any  soil.  It  is  rapid  growing,  but  only  attains  a  height  of 
twelve  inches. 

Excellent  contrast 
combinations  can  be 
had  by  the  intense 
blue  Anchusa  italica 
and  the  Yellow 
Marguerite  (Anthe- 
mis  tinctoria),  plac- 
ing the  Anchusa  at 
the  back. 

Another  good 
combination  is  that 
of  German  Iris, 
among  which  is 
planted  the  Summer 
Hyacinth  (Hya- 
cinthus,  or  Galtonia 
candicans),  with  its 
long  spikes  of  white 
bells  and  its  broad 
leaves.  The  bulbs 
of  the  Summer  Hya- 
cinth are  placed  in 
the  soil  in  the  Spring ; 
when  they  bloom  the 
Iris  wiUhave  finished 
its  blooming  but  will 

furnish        a       foliage  I^oes  not  this  charming  border  planting  make  you 

feel  like  having  one  of  your  own  ? 


78 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


An  effective  use  of  the  blue  Aquilegia,  or  Columbine,  is  to  place 
a  number  of  these  plants  at  the  base  of  a  yellow  Rose;  for  example 

Harrison's  Yellow,  or  Persian  Yellow. 

Considerations 

for  a  Perennial 

Border 

We  have  a  great 
many  classes  of 
perennials,  some  of 
which  are  so  wild 
and  agressive  that 
they  should  only 
be  planted  among 
the  shrubbery.  We 
have  others  which 
are  very  dainty  and 
tender  and  whose 
growth  must  be 
carefully  watched 
and  their  special 
needs  for  protec- 
tion attended  to. 
We  must  scatter 
plants  through  the 
length  of  the 
border  which  will 
bloom  throughout 
the  season.  We 
should,  further- 
more, attempt  to 
get  good  color 
combinations.  The  heights  to  which  the  plants  will  grow  should  be 
known,  otherwise  the  taller  ones  may  be  in  front  and  the  more 
dwarf  ones  in  the  background.  It  is  always  well  in  an  informal 
border  to  let  the  back  line  be  somewhat  broken;  plants  at  some  points 
are  a  little  shorter. 


,  Bringing  the  flower  garden  up  to  the  house 

j     Note  also  the  brick  path  and  other  architectural  features. 


Situation  of  Border 

Choose  a  southern  exposure  where  it  is  not  in  too  close  proxinjity 
to  large  tree  roots.    It  should  be  somewhat  protected  from  the  direct 


HARDY  FLOWERS  79 

force  of  jthe  wind,  otherwise  fragile  flowers  will  not  be  very  lasting. 
Most  perennials  enjoy  a  medium  light  loam. 

Preparation  of  Soil 

As  with  annuals,  but  perhaps  more  so  with  perennials,  the  soil  for 
borders  should  be  deeply  and  thoroughly  prepared;  two  to  three  feet 
is  none  too  deep,  for  plants  must  remain  in  one  place  for  a  long  time. 
In  the  case  of  Peonies  it  is  detrimental  to  move  them  often  and  it  is 
frequently  two  years,  and  in  some  soils  three  years,  after  moving  a 
Peony  plant  before  it  blooms  normally.  Manure  and  a  complete  fer- 
tiUzer  should  be  well  worked  into  a  new  border.  All  perennial  borders 
profit  by  an  application  of  bonemeal,  hardwood  ashes  and  sheep  manure 
every  year  or  two.  Perennial  borders  which  have  been  flowering  year 
after  year  and  to  which  much  manure  has  continually  been  added,  be- 
come somewhat  sour  and  an  application  of  slaked  lime  every  two  years 
is  very  beneficial.  Many  of  the  perennials  do  not  attain  their  proper 
maturity  before  the  Winter  when  they  have  been  excessively  fertilized 
and  forced  into  continued  sappy  growth.  They  then  suffer  from  cold. 
All  soils  for  borders  should  be  loose,  so  that  they  can  be  easily  kept 
stirred.  Soils  are  made  light  or  loosened  by  manure,  sand  or  fine  coal 
ashes.    Clay  soils  surely  need  some  such  treatment. 

Planting 

A  rule  which  has  been  given  in  setting  perennials  is  to  put  them 
a  trifle  closer  than  half  their  height;  For  example.  Columbine  grows 
two  feet  tall;  for  good  clumps  place  young  plants  one  foot  apart.  This 
rule  will  not  apply  in  subsequent  years,  for  as  the  plants  grow  they 
must  be  thinned  out.  A  good  liberal  planting  is  always  the  better  plan. 
Plants  should  usually  be  set  a  little  deeper  than  they  were  when 
growing  in  the  nursery.  Care  must  be  exercised  not  to  bury  them  too 
deeply,  however,  for  some  perennials,  as  Violets  and  German  Iris,  are 
almost  surface  creepers.  In  placing  the  perennials  in  the  soil,  spread  the 
roots  symmetrically ;  do  not  wad  them  and  cram  them  into  a  little  hole. 

Spring  Planting 

The  planting  of  perennials  is  best  done  in  Spring  when  the  tops 
aie  just  about  to  start  into  growth.  There  is  danger  in  planting  when 
the  soil  is  too  moist,  especially  in  clayey  soils,  which  if  they  become 
caked  are  difficult  to  pulverize  during  the  whole  growing  season. 


80 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


jftJSi 


HARDY  FLOWERS  81 

Autumn  Planting 

In  the  Autumn  most  perennials  can  be  transplanted  successfully 
if  set  out  in  time  so  that  their  roots  get  established  before  cold  weather. 
If  perennials  must  be  moved  in  full  growth  they  should  always  be  cut 
back;  especially  is  this  the  case  when  much  soil  is  removed  from  the 
roots.  AH  newly  set  stock  should  be  watered.  There  is  usually  less 
work  in  Autumn  than  in  the  Spring,  hence  this  season  is  often  preferred 
for  planting. 

Cultivation 

Through  the  growing  season  the  surface  soil  should  be  loosened  so 
that  air  may  enter  in  order  to  encourage  root  action,  as  well  as  to  con- 
serve the  moisture,  and  keep  the  weeds  in  check.  Under  the  heading 
of  "Lawns"  we  have  mentioned  the  value  of  lawn  clippings  as  a  Sum- 
mer mulch  to  conserve  moisture.  We  very  strongly  recommend  well 
decayed  stable  manure  and  leaf  mold,  where  these  are  obtainable. 

Watering 

Watering,  although  beneficial,  is  less  necessary  if  the  soil  is  always 
kept  loose.  In  dry  seasons  watermay  beapplied,usingplentyatonetime. 
Little  drippings  of  water  are  bad  for  all  plants,  for  such  a  method  of 
watering  only  destroys  the  surface  looseness.  Syringing  the  foHage  is 
beneficial;  in  many  cases  it  serves  to  keep  insects  in  check  if  done 
vigorously.  Wherever  possible,  water  pipes  should  be  laid  with  faucets 
at  regular  intervals  for  use  in  the  garden. 

Staking 

Many  of  the  perennials  will  become  tall  and  some  support  will  be 
necessary.  Do  not  make  it  conspicuous.  Paint  the  stake  green  and  tie 
with  green  cord  or  raffia,  but  do  not  use  an  old  mop  handle  nor  tie  with 
brilliant  calico.  A  light,  but  long  stake  placed  at  the  center  of  the 
plant  is  effective.  Twiggy  branches  of  trees  may  also  be  used.  In  that 
case  scarcely  any  tying  is  needed.  Let  the  stakes  be  placed  early; 
when  the  plants  have  made  a  great  growth  they  cannot  be  effectively 
supported,  so  that  a  natural  appearance  is  lost.  The  whole  beauty  of  a 
garden  is  frequently  marred  by  the  absence  of  stakes  or  a  poor  method 
of  staking. 

Removal  of  Old  Flowers  and  Seed  Pods 

All  old  flowers,  seed  pods  and  dead  leaves  should  be  removed  from 
time  to  tune.    They  should  be  burned.    Old  flowers  harbor  thrips,  a 


82         ■  GARDEN  GUIDE 

very  minute  insect  which  is  usually  found  in  the  heart  of  a  Rose  bloom, 
they  cause  a  shabby  appearance  of  the  petalage.  Seed  production  is  a 
most  debihtating  process;  the  plant  therefore  should  be  prevented  from 
doing  this  excessive  labor.  When  the  old  flowers  are  picked  the 
energies  are  often  turned  to  a  second  crop  of  bloom.  Many  dead  leaves 
are  diseased  and  are  a  menace  to  the  other  plants.  Besides  this,  old 
flowers,  dead  leaves  and  seed  pods  give  an  air  of  untidiness  to  the 
garden. 

The  Propagation  of  Perennials  is  discussed  in  a  separate  chapter, 
"Plant  Propagation,"  which  see. 


Necessity  for  Replanting 

Some  of  the  later  blooming  perennials,  especially  Helianthus, 
Rudbeckia,  Asters,  Boltonia,  Physostegia,  Achillea,  need  to  be  re- 
planted or  parts  of  them  removed  each  year.  Five  to  eight  shoots  of 
these  perennials  can  be  left  and  the  rest  dug  up  and  moved  to  another 
place.  This  is  the  only  way  to  keep  some  of  the  weedier  growers  in 
subjection.  Perennials  which  bloom  from  crowns  in  the  early  Spring 
are  usuaUy  impatient  of  being  moved  oft«n,  examples  being  Bleeding 
Heart,  Oriental  Poppy,  Dictamnus,  Red  Hot  Poker  and  Peony.  Iris 
reproduces  rapidly  and  is  best  divided  every  two  or  three  years;  Phlox 
every  three  or  four  years  and  Peony  only  every  three  to  five  years. 
Many  perennials,  as  Delphinium  and  Columbine,  increase  by  a  gradual 
enlargement  of  the  crown. 


For  a  worthy  book  [on  hardy  flowers, 
we  reccommend 
A  WOMAN'S,  HARDY  GARDEN,  by  Helena  Rutherford  Ely.  With 
illustrations  from  photographs  by  Prof.  C.  F.  Chandler.  Mrs.  Ely  gives 
copious  details  of  the  cost  of  plants,  the  exact  dates  of  planting,  the  number 
of  plants  required  in  a  given  space  for  beauty  of  effect  and  advantage  to  free 
growth,  the  protection  needed  from  sun  and  frost,  etc.  Illustrated,  Cloth, 
12mo.  $1.90  postpaid. 

Secure  your  copy  where  you  bought  your  Garden  Guide. 


HARDY  FLOWERS  83 

LIST  OF  THIRTY  INDISPENSABLE  HARDY 
PERENNIALS 

Judged  from  hardiness,  color,  profusion  of  bloom  or  particular  seasonal  value. 

1.  TEN  TALL.     (Above  3>^  feet  tall.) 

Althea  rosea  (Hollyhock).     Great  range  of  colors. 

Anchusa  italica,  Dropmore  variety  (Italian  Borage).     Deepest  blue. 

Aster.     Tall  species  (not  China  Aster),  often  called  Michaelmas  Daisies. 

Delphinium.     Tall,  deep  blues. 

Digitalis  purpurea,  var.  gloxiniaeflora.     Excellent  foliage.  , 

Echinops  ruthenicus,  or  Ritro  (Globe  Thistle). 

Helianthus  decapetalus.  var.  multiflorus.     Forms  huge  clumps,  excellent  for  screening. 

Rudbeckia  laciniata,  var.  Golden  Glow.     Golden  yellow. 

Thalictrum  aquilegifolia.     Feathery  flowers,  lilac  in  color. 

Yucca  fiaccida.     Tall  spikes  of  white,  bell-shaped  flowers. 

2.  TEN  MEDIUM  TALL.     (Between  13^-3>i  feet  tall.) 
Anemone  japonica.     Chosen  as  best  late  white  flower. 
Aquilegia  chrysantha.     Long-spurred,  golden  yellow  Columbine. 
Campanula  persicifolia.     Blue  or  white,  erect,  clean  growth,  handsome  spikes. 
Delphinium  Belladonna.     Indispensable,  medium  light  blue. 

Dianthus  barbatus  (Sweet  William).    Various  colors,  fragrant. 
Gypsophila  paniculata.     Fine  airy  flower,  white,  graceful. 
Iris  germanica  pallida  dalmatica.     Excellent,  light  blue. 
Papaver  orientale.     Gorgeous  scarlet  and  orange  flowers. 
Peony,  var.  Festiva  maxima.     White,  with  dash  of  red  at  center. 
Phlox  suffruticosa  Miss  Lingard.     Pure  taffy  white  flower. 

3.  TEN  DWARF.     (Below  VA  feet  tall.) 
Arabis  alpina.     One  of  best  early  white  perennials. 

Dianthus  plumarius  (Clove  Pink).    White  to  purple,  very  fragrant. 
Geum  coccineum  (Avens).     A  very  clear  scarlet;  likes  sun. 

Heuchera  sanguinea  (Coral  Bells).    Long,  graceful  spikes  of  white  or  scarlet  bells. 
Iberis  semperflorens.     (Perennial   Candytuft);   excellent  white. 
Iris  pumila  (Dwarf  Iris).    Good  yellows,  purples  and  whites. 
Phlox  subulata  (Moss  Pink).    Excellent  Spring  bloom,  lavender  pink. 
Primula  polyantha  and  veris  (Spring  Cowslip).    E-xcellent  fresh  colors. 
Sedum  spectabile  (Showy  Sedum).    Fleshy  leaves,  rose  to     crimson  flowers. 
Chrysanthemum  maximum  (Shasta  Daisy).     Though  it  does  not  succeed  well  every- 
where, it  is  an  excellent  improved  white  Daisy. 

GENERAL  SELECTION  OF  HARDY  FLOWERS 

t  For  cutting.         *  Shade  enduring.  "For  rock  garden.         JFor  moist  ground. 

TALL  PERENNIALS     (Above  33^  feet) 

"tAchillea  filipendula  *  "fDigitalis  ambigua  (Larger  Yellow  Fox- 

*  tAconitum  autumnale  (Autumn  Aeon-  glove). 


ite). 


*  °tEchinops  ruthenicus  (Globe  Thistle) . 


♦tAconitum  Fischeri  (Monk's-hood).  4.tj  i-     ..u      j           ^  ^      rir,          ■  ^c 

*  "tAconitum   lycoctonum    (Wolfs-bane).  tHejianthus  decapetalus  (Perennial  Sun- 

tAlthea  rosea  (Hollyhock).  +TTr     ![''•                ,•       /xt            ,         a 

^o'        ,            .     ,:        L                   ,.     ,.  tHehanthus     orgyalis     (Narrow-leaved 

♦  tAnchusa    itahca    Dropmore     (Italian  Sunflower). 

Borage  Alkanet).  JtHelianthus  tuberosa  (Jerusalem  Arti- 

♦"Aruncus  Sylvester  (Goat's  Beard).  choke). 

*  "Asters,  numerous  species.  *  ofLupinus  polyphyllus  (Lupin) . 

tiofS%^sTetoSef('Ss^C=Lile)  ttRudbeckia laciniata.  var.  Golden  Glow. 

"Boltonia  latisquama.  JSenecio  clivorum. 

"Campanula      pyramidalis      (Chimney  J*»tThalictrum      aquilegifolia      (Meadow 

Campanula).  Rue). 

J*°Cimicifuga  racemosa  (Bugbane).  "tTritoma      Pfitzeri,      properly      called 

"tDelphinium  hybrids.  Kniphofia  aloides  (Red  Hot  Poker) . 

*°tDigitalis    purpurea,  var.  gloxiniaeflora  tValeriana  officinalis  (Valerian). 

(Foxglove).  "t Yucca  faccida  (Bayonet  Plant). 


84 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


MEDIUM  TALL  PERENNIALS  HH-^H  feet) 


"tAchillea  Ptarmica  (Sneezewort) . 
"tAconitum  Napellus  (Monk's-hood). 
•fAnthemis  tinctoria  Kelwayi    (Chamo- 
mile). 

*  "t Anemone  japonica    (Japanese   Anem- 

one). 

*  'tAquilegia  (Columbine) . 

*  "JAquilegia  canadensis. 

*  "tAquilegia  chrysantha. 

*  "tAquilegia  caerulea. 

*  "fAquilegia  sibirica 
*°tAquilegia  vulgaris. 

J "tAsclepias  tuberosa  (Butterfly  Weed). 
°t Aster  ptarmicoides  (Frost  Weed). 
"JBaptisia  australis  (False  Indigo). 
tCampanula  glomerata. 
tCampanula    Medium    (Canterbury 

Bells). 
tCampanula   Medium,    var.    Calycan- 

thema  (Cups  and  Saucers). 
"tCampanula  persicifolia   (Peach-leaved 

Campanula). 
"tCampanula  Trachelium  (Throatwort) . 
"Callirhoe  involucrata  (Poppy  Mallow). 
"tCentaurea  dealbata  (Cornflower). 
"tCentaurea    dealbata    macrocephala 

(Knapweed). 
"tCentaurea  montana  (Mountain  Bluet). 
"tCentranthus  ruber   (Red  Valerian). 
"tChrysanthemum    coccineum    (Pyreth- 

rum). 
"tChrysanthemum    Parthenium    (Fever- 
few). 
"tClematis  Davidiana. 
"tClematis  recta. 

•fCoreopsis  lanceolata  grandiflora  (Tick- 
seed)  . 
"Coreopsis  verticillata    (Narrow-leaved 
Tickseed). 
*°Corydalis  nobilis. 
tDelphinium  Belladonna  (Larkspur). 
.   "tDianthus  barbatus  (Sweet  William). 
"Dicentra  spectabilis  (Bleeding  Heart). 
*''Dictamnus     Fraxinella     albus      (Gas 

Plant). 
'tDimorphotheca     aurantiaca     (Cape 

Marigold). 
* "Dracocephalum  moldavicum    (Molda- 
vian Balm). 
t*°Doronicum     excelsum     (Leopard's 
Bane). 
*"tEchinacea  (Rudbeckia)  purpurea  (Pur- 
ple Coneflower). 
J"tEpilobium  angustifolium  (Fire  Weed). 
•Erigeron  speciosus  (Fleabane). 
"tEryngium  planum  (Sea  Holly). 
"tEryngium  amethystinum  (Sea  Holly). 
fEupatorium     purpureum     (Joe     Pye 
Weed). 
•Eupatorium  perfoliatum   (Boneset). 
J'tEuphorbia  corollata   (Flowering 

Spurge). 
J  "fFilipendula  hexapetala   (Meadow 

Sweet). 
•tGaillardia  aristata  (Blanket  Flower) 
•fOalega  officinalis  (Goat's  Rue). 


*°tGalium  boreale  (Northern  Bedstraw). 
"tGypsophila  acutifolia  (Baby's  Breath). 
"tGypsophila  paniculata  (Baby's  Breath) 
J"tHelenium  autumnale  (Sneezeweed) . 
"tHelenium  (Dugaldia)  Hoopesii  (Sneeze- 
weed). 
"tHelianthus  Maximiliani     (Maximilian 

Sunflower) . 
"tHelianthus  mollis  (Downy  Sunflower). 
"Hemerocallis  aurantiaca    (Orange  Day 

Lily). 
"Hemerocallis  flava  (Lemon  Lily). 
"Hemerocallis  fulva  (Day  Lily). 
"Hemerocallis  Thunbergii. 
tHesperis  matronalis  (Sweet  Rocket), 
"tiris  germanica  (German  Iris), 
"tiris  Kaempferi    (Japanese  Iris). 
"tIris  sibirica  (Siberian  Iris). 
"tLiatris  pycnostachya   (Blazing  Star). 
t*"tLobelia    cardinalis    (Cardinal  Flower). 
J*"tLobelia  syphilitica  (Blue  Lobelia). 
"tLychnis  chalcedonica  (Maltese  Cros?). 
t"1"Lysimachia     clethroides     (Pepperbush 
Loosestrife) . 
ttLysimachia  punctata   (Dotted  Loose- 
strife). 
ttLysimachia  vulgaris  (Common  Loose- 
strife) . 
t"tLythrum   Salicaria   roseum   superbum 
(Purple  Loosestrife). 
t*°tMertensiavirginica  (Virginia  Bluebells). 

J°tMonarda  didyma  (Beebalm). 
^*"tCEnothera     missouriensis     (Missouri 
Evening  Primrose). 
"tCEnothera  speciosa  (Evening  Primrose). 
tPaeonia  albiflora. 
tPaeonia  officinalis. 
tPaeonia    tenuifolia. 
tPapaver  orientale  (Oriental  Poppy). 
"tPentstemon   barbatus  Torreyi. 
"tPentstemon  gloxinioides. 
"*Phlox  maculata. 
"tPhlox  paniculata  (Hardy  Phlox). 
"tPhlox  suffruticosa. 
"tPhysostegia       virginiana        (Obedient 

Plant). 
"tPlatycodon    grandiflorum     (Chinese 

Balloon  Flower), 
t  "Rheum  palmatum  var.   atro   sanguin- 

eum  (Ornamental  Rhubarb). 
"tSalvia  azurea  (Blue  Sage). 
"tSalvia    pratensis    (Common    Meadow 

Sage). 
"tScabiosa  caucasica  (Scabious). 
"tSidalcea  Candida. 
J*°Smilacina  racemosa  (Solomon  Seal). 
"tSolidago  sp.  (Golden  Rod). 

"Spiraea. 
"tThalictrum     adiantifolium     (Meadow 

Rue). 
"tThalictrum  dipterocarpum. 
"tThermopsis  caroliniana. 
t  "Tradescantia  virginiana  (Spiderwort) . 
"tVeronica     longifolia     var.     subsessilis 

(Speedwell). 
"tVeronica  spicata  (Spiked  Speedwell). 


HARDY  FLOWERS 


85 


LIST  OF  DWARF  PERENNIALS.     (Less  than  l}4  feet.) 


*  "Adonis  astivalis  (Pheasant's  Eye). 

*  "Adonis  vernalis  (Spring  Adonis). 
t*°yEgopodium  Podograria  (Gout  Weed). 

*°Ajuga  reptans  (Bugle). 
*°Ajuga  genevensis  (Bugle). 
"Alyssum  rostratum  (Gold  Dust). 
"Alyssum  saxatile  (Gold  Dust). 
♦"Arabis  albida  (Rock  Cress). 
♦"Arabis  alpina  (Rock  Cress). 
♦"Armeria  maritima  (Sea  Thrift). 
*°Armeria  formosa  (Sea  Thrift). 
♦"tAsperula  odorata  (Sweet  Woodruff). 
*°Astrantia  carniolica  (Masterwort). 
"Aubrietia     deltoidea      (Purple     Rock 
Cress) . 
* "tCampanula  rotundifolia  (Harebell). 
"Campanula    carpatica    (Carpathian 
Harebell). 
"tCentaurea  nigra  (Knap  Weed  or  Hard- 
head). 

*  "Cerastium  tomentosum  (Snow-in-Sum- 

mer). 
"tChrysanthemum  arcticum. 
"fChrysanthemum     maximum     (Shasta 

Daisy). 
* "Claytonia  virginica  (Spring  Beauty). 

"Coronilla  varia  (Crown  Vetch). 
♦"Dianthus  deltoides  (Maiden  Pink). 
*°Dianthus  latifolius  (Pink). 
*°tDianthus  plumarius  (Clove  Pink). 
♦"Dicentraeximia  (Wild  Bleeding  Heart). 
♦"Dicentra   formosa    (Chinese    Bleeding 

Heart). 
♦"Dicentra   cucularia    (Dutchman's 
Breeches). 
{♦"tEpimedium  alpinum. 
*  fEpimedium  pinnatum. 
t*"'Funkia  subcordata. 
*°Gentiana  Andrewsii  (Closed  Gentian). 

*  "Geranium  sanguineum  (Crane's  Bill). 
"tGeum  coccineum  (Avens). 
"fHelenium  autumnale  pumilum  (Sneeze- 
weed)  . 

* "tHelleborus  niger  (Christmas  Rose). 
*°tHepatica  triloba  (Mayflower). 


*  'tHepatica  acutiloba  (Mayflower) . 
*"tHeuchera  sanguinea  (Coral  Bells), 
•flberis  semperflorens  (Perennial  Candy- 
tuft). 

"tincarvillea  Delavayi. 

•flris  cristata,  pumila,  and  vernai  (Dwarf 

Iris).- 
"tLychnis  coronaria    (Mullein   Pink). 

"Opuntia  vulgaris  (Prickly  Pear). 
"tPapaver  nudicaule  (Iceland  Poppy). 
"Phlox  Arendsii. 
t  "tPhlox  divaricata  (Wild  Sweet  William). 
J*"tPhlox  subulata  (Moss  Pink). 

"tPlumbago  Larpentae  (Lead  Plant). 
J*"tPodophylIum  peltatum  (May  Apple). 
♦"Polemonium  caerulea  (Jacob's  Ladder). 
"tPotentilla  Miss  Willmott. 
t'tPrimula  japonica. 
"fPrimula  polyantha. 
"tPrimula  vulgaris. 
*"Pulmonaria  saccharata  (Lungwort). 
*"tRanunculus  aconitifolius  fl.  pi.  (Double 
Buttercup). 
"Sagina  glabra  (Pearlwort). 
"tSaxifraga  pyramidalis  (Saxifrage). 
J*"tSedum  spectabile  (Showy  sedum). 
*"Sempervivum    arachnoideum    (Spider- 
web  Houseleek). 
*"Sempervivum  Brownii. 
*"Sempervivum  pyrenaicum. 

*  "Sempervivum  tectorum  (Old  Man  and 

Woman). 

*"tStatice  latifolia  (Sea  Lavender). 
"fStokesia  cyanea  (Stokes'  Aster). 
J*"tTrillium  grandifiorum  (Wake  Robin). 

*°tTrillium   sessile. 

*"tTrillium  erectum  (Red  Trillium). 
J*"tTrollius  asiaticus  (Globe  Flower). 
j*"tTrollius  europaeus. 
j*"tTrollius  excelsior. 
j*"tTrollius  giganteus). 

*  "Tunica  (Petrohagia)  Saxifraga. 
"tVeronica  incana. 


] 


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A  scheme  for  a  border  of  Annual  Flowers.     This  bed  is  approximately 
6  ft.  by  20  ft. 


Plans  for  Perennial  Borders  of 


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Each  sketch  represents  the  corner  of  a  perennial  border  at  the  margin  of  the  lawn. 
Those  plants  at  the  back  are  usually  taller,  those  at  the  front  are  more  dwarf. 
Each  section  is  arranged  to  be  approximately  three  to  four  feet  wide.    The  larger 

86 


Attractive  Color  Combinations 


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corners  are  25  feet  on  one  side  and  10  or  15  on  the  other.  The  numbers  accom- 
panying the  plant  names  refei  to  the  months  during  which  the  plants  bloom; 
thus  6-9  means  that  the  plants  are  flowering  usually  from  June  until  September 

87 


CHAPTER  VII 


Annuals  and  Biennials 

Care  in  Purchasing  Seed — Sowing — Transplanting — Time  to  Sow 
Out-of-Doors — Preparation  of  Soil — Keeping  Seed  Pods  Removed 
—Vines — Combinations  of  Annuals — Everlasting  Flowers — 
Annuals  Useful  for  Cut  Flowers — Lesser  Known  Annuals — 
Annuals  for  Edging  Beds  of  Other  Plants — Foliage  Annuals — 
Biennials — Germination  Table 

ANNUALS  are  plants  the  seed  of  which  must  be  sown  each  year. 
±\.  Some  plants,  although  they  live  more  than  one  year,  are  not  at 
their  best  after  the  first  year  and  should  be  considered  as  annuals. 
The  Pansy  is  such  a  plant;  it  is  perennial,  but  is  best  when  sown  each 
year.  Annuals  are  not  permanent,  it  is  true,  but  they  fill  a  great  need 
for  profusion  of  bloom  for  garden  effect.  In  few  ways  can  a  few  cents 
be  spent  so  profitably  as  in  the  purchase  of  a  package  of  seeds  of  an- 
nuals. They  bloom  so  quickly  and  make  such  excellent  fillers  for  the 
bare  spots  between  our  shrubs  and  other  perennial  plants  that  they  are 
truly  indispensable.  For  cut  flowers  they  are  unexcelled;  sorts  may  be 
easily  chosen  with  long,  strong  stems  and  excellent  keeping  qualities, 
together  with  the  daintest  or  gayest  colors.  They  commend  them- 
selves to  planting  near  rented  houses  where  investments  for  plants 
would  otherwise  be  somewhat  wasted. 

For  pot  culture  upon  porches  and  areas  where  little  space  is  avail- 
able the  annual  fits  in  nicely.  In  window  boxes  the  dwarf,  compact 
plants  are  just  as  useful  as  the  tall  climbers.  The  annual  vines  are 
unrivaled  in  their  ability  quickly  to  cover  unsightly  buildings  or  rough 
ground,  as  well  as  serving  for  shade  upon  rustic  arbors  and  porches. 

Care  in  Purchasing  Seed 

The  buying  of  flower  seeds  is  an  investment  to  be  undertaken 
with  unusual  discretion.  Se^ds  should  be  bought  only  from  reliable 
dealers  who  handle,  in  the  right  way,  seeds  procured  from  the  best 
plants,  and  those  bearing  the  finest  flowers.  The  matter  of  getting 
good  seed  must  depend  entirely  upon  our  confidence  in  the  dealer. 
The  wise  gardener  avoids  wasting  his  ground  space  by  sowing  seeds 
which  have  lain  about  grocery  stores  for  any  length  of  time. 

Sowing 

Many  annuals,  such  as  Petunia,  Phlox,  Verbena,  ornamental  To- 
bacco, China  Asters,  Snapdragon,  Cosmos,  Sweet  Alyssum,  Pansy, 


ANNUALS  AND  BIENNIALS  89 

annual  Larkspur,  Salpiglossis,  Scarlet  Sage.  Swan  River  Daisy  and 
Torenia,  benefit  by  being  sown  indoors  in  order  to  give  them  a  growing 
start  before  placing  in  open  soil. 

March  is  the  best  time  to  sow.  This  necessitates  procuring  a  good 
loam  in  the  Autumn  and  storing  it  in  the  basement.  The  soil  need  not 
be  rich,  but  it  should  be  loose,  which  can  be  accomplished  b^  the  ad- 
dition of  well-rotted  manure,  or  if  this  is  not  available,  sifted  coal 
ashes  or  sand  will  be  useful.  This  soil  should  not  be  allowed  to  become 
dry  in  the  basement,  but  should  be  moistened  every  month  or  oftener, 
according  to  its  condition.  It  must  not  be  kept  too  wet,  otherwise  it 
will  sour  badly. 

Seed  must  always  be  sown  thinly;  thick  sowing  is  a  general  cause 
of  failure  with  annuals.  Some  seeds,  as  Petunia,  Verbena,  ornamental 
Tobacco,  Salpiglossis  and  Portulaca,  are  very  minute,  and  should  not 
be  covered  with  soil.  A  newspaper  and  a  pane  of  glass  placed  over  the 
pot  or  box  will  retain  the  moisture  and  keep  the  sunlight  from  the 
seed.  When  the  seed  is  not  covered,  the  soil  should  be  thoroughly 
watered  before  sowing.  Larger  seeds  are  best  sown  in  rows  and  should 
be  covered  with  soil  about  three  times  their  diameter.  To  keep  out 
the  light  and  prevent  the  pots  from  drying,  the  use  of  newspaper  over 
the  pots  is  excellent.  As  soon  as  the  seedlings  get  above  the  soil,  they 
should  be  given  the  best  light  conditions,  otherwise  they  will  become 
very  spindling  and  weak.  Good  light  and  rather  cool  conditions  in- 
doors, together  with  thorough  but  not  too  frequent  watering,  should 
produce  stocky  plants. 

Excepting  such  as  Mignonette,  Sweet  Sultan,  Love-in-a-Mist, 
Heliotrope,  and  the  Poppy-hke  plants,  as  Eschscholtzia,  Argemone  and 
Papaver,  most  annuals  can  be  successfully  transplanted.  When  seeds 
of  these  latter  are  sown  they  are  best  placed  in  very  small  pots,  using 
only  two  or  three  seeds  in  a  pot. 

Transplanting 

Seedlings  may  be  transplanted  when  very  small;  in  fact,  after  the 
appearance  of  several  leaves,  if  the  plants  are  becoming  crowded,  they 
should  be  transplanted  into  boxes  about  three  inches  deep,  setting  them 
several  inches  apart  each  way.  The  earliness  of  sowing  the  seed  will 
govern  the  amount  and  need  for  transplanting.  Transplanting  is 
beneficial  to  many  seedlings  because  it  causes  the  root  tips  to  branch, 
making  a  well  balanced  root  system. 

Time  to  Sow  Out-of-Doors 

When  the  soil  is  warmed  a  little  in  the  Spring  most  annuals  can  be 
sown  directly  in  the  open  soil;  but  a  few  are  tender,  that  is,  they  will 


90 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


#f^ 


ANNUALS  AND  BIENNIALS  91 

stand  very  little  cold  and  should  never  be  planted  until  all  danger  of  frost 
is  past.  Among  these  are:  Amaranth,  Browallia,  Gelosia,  Torenia, 
California  Poppy,  Gourds,  Butterfly  Flower.    These  are  all  tender. 

Preparation  of  Soil 

The  soil  should  not  merely  be  loosened  by  a  rake,  but  if  good 
flowers  are  wanted,  thorough  preparation  should  be  given  and  decayed 
manure  added.  After  many  of  the  annuals  have  grown  two  or  three 
leaves  tall,  they  will  benefit  by  being  pinched  back ;  in  other  words,  the 
main  shoot  should  be  cut  out.  This  will  cause  the  plants  to  become 
branchy  and  bear  three  times  as  many  flowers.  Especially  successful 
is  pinching  such  plants  as  Stock,  Nemophila,  Butterfly  Flower,  Pe- 
tunia, Baby's  Breath,  annual  Chrysanthemums,  Clarkia,  Cosmos, 
Godetia,  Salpiglossis,  Swan  River  Daisy  and  Calliopsis. 

Keeping  Seed  Pods  Removed 

Annuals  soon  accomplish  their  growth  and  hastily  decline  if  their 
seed  pods  are  not  carefully  removed.  Many  of  them  may  continue  to 
bloom  throughout  the  Summer  if  careful  attention  is  given  this  detail. 

>/  Vines 

TKe  annual  vines  form  an  important  garden  adjunct.  The  most 
important  plant  in  this  class  is  the  Sweet  Pea  {See  Contents)  perhaps ; 
the  next  in  value  is  the  Nasturtium,  which  not  only  has  excellent  foli- 
age, but  at  the  same  time  is  without  a  competitor  for  profusion  and 
elegance  of  bloom.  The  Morning  Glory  {See  Contents)  would  be  more 
valued  but  for  the  fact  that  inferior  varieties  are  too  often  grown. 
Excellent  giant  forms,  clear  blue  in  color,  are  on  the  markets,  which  for 
a  morning  effect  upon  the  garden  fence  are  very  attractive.  The  Cobaea 
is  really  a  tender  perennial,  but  does  best  sown  in  pots  and  started  in- 
doors each  year.  The  seeds  are  flat  and  should  be  planted  edgewise. 
The  flowers  are  greenish  purple  and  followed  by  attractive  pods.  The 
plants  make  a  phenomenal  growth.  Another  vine  with  inflated  pods  is 
the  Balloon  Vine.  Although  the  flowers  are  inconspicuous,  the  balloons 
are  borne  very  freely.  The  Cypress  Vine  and  the  Cardinal  Climber 
both  possess  deep  red  flowers  and  fine  foliage.  The  seeds  of  both  are 
rather  difficult  to  start,  but  if  those  of  the  Cypress  Vine  are  scalded 
there  should  be  httle  difficulty.  The  familiar  Hop,  Scarlet  Bean  and 
Gourds  should  not  be  forgotten.  If  one  prefers  something  rather  extra- 
ordinary and  unique,  the  Canary  Bird  Vine  (Tropaeolum  peregrinum) 
with  its  peculiar  yellow  fringed  flowers  and  delicate  foHage,  should  be 
grown. 


92 


GARDEN  GUIDE 
Combinations  of  Annuals 


It  is  hardly  ever  advisable  to  buy  mixed  colors  of  flowers;  it  is 
much  better  to  buy  packages  of  good  separate  colors  and  mix  them. 
Nothing  is  prettier  than  huge  masses  of  one  color.  Bicolor  or  varie- 
gated flowers  are  to  be  avoided,  because  they  often  give  a  dull  appear- 
ance as  seen  in  beds. 

Let  us  make  a  few  recommendations  for  combinations  of  annuals 
or  ways  in  which  they  give  the  best  efl'ects: 


Foxgloves    (Digitalis)    are    hardy    biennials;    they    seed    and 
reproduce  themselves  freely — See  also  page  116 

In  making  beds  for  annuals  they  should  not  be  too  wide;  if  against 
a  fence,  four  or  five  feet,  and  if  in  the  open,  six  or  seven  feet,  is  sufficient; 
otherwise,  they  cannot  be  handled  easily  either  for  picking  the  flowers 
or  for  cultivating  and  weeding.  Few  annuals  can  be  sown  so  that  they 
are  exactly  the  proper  distance  apart  when  they  bloom.  They  must, 
therefore,  be  thinned.  According  to  the  variety  they  all  need  from  six 
to  eighteen  inches  between  plants.    Poppy  beds  are  always  too  thickly 


ANNUALS  AND  BIENNIALS  93 

planted,  for  Poppy  seed  is  very  fine  and  difficult  to  sow  properly.  They 
must  be  thinned  if  the  Poppies  are  to  attain  their  proper  development. 

A  bed  of  blue  Bachelor's  Buttons  can  be  nicely  edged  with  Sweet 
Alyssum  or  Candytuft,  both  of  the  latter  being  white.  The  Bachelor's  But- 
tons will  furnish  a  constant  supply  of  cut  flowers. 

Snapdragon,  of  which  a  dehcate  pink  variety,  perhaps,  is  chosen,  will 
be  excellent  combined  with  Dusty  Miller. 

Another  bed  will  be  showy,  composed  of  California  Poppies  planted  in 
front  of  the  taller  pot  Marigolds.    This  will  be  in  tones  of  orange-yellow. 

Entire  beds,  perhaps  five  by  ten  feet,  of  Verbenas,  planted  12  inches 
apart  each  way,  will  prove  very  effective. 

Grow  a  fine  lot  of  young  Drummondii  Phlox  plants,  a  white  variety, 
and  after  filling  a  bed  with  them  placed  eight  inches  apart,  plant  buU)s  of 
the  pink  variety  America  Gladiolus  between  the  plants. 

Into  your  bed  of  Pansies  transplant  a  few  of  the  dainty  blue  Browalha 
demissa;  this  will  cast  a  very  light  and  airy  effect  over  the  whole  bed. 

On  some  narrow  strip,  where  there  is  little  room,  try  Godetia  Bosa- 
mond  with  its  satiny  pink  flowers  by  itself.  You  will  be  rewarded  by  a 
very  pretty  display. 

A  huge  bed  of  Nicotiana  sylvestris,  the  ornamental  Tobacco,  near  a 
porch  where  you  can  get  the  great  fragrance  in  the  evening,  is  very  satis- 
factory. The  Nicotiana  self  sows  and  it  will  be  necessary  to  keep  these  in 
check. 

In  a  hot,  sunbeaten,  dry  place,  sow  the  Portulaca  or  Sunplant.  The 
metallic  seeds  self  sow  and  the  plant  will  come  up  year  after  year.  This  is 
the  old-fashioned  "Seven  Sisters"  plant  which  some  persons  fancy  bears 
seven  colored  blooms  on  one  plant. 

In  some  pots,  to  be  placed  on  posts  or  on  a  wall,  plant  a  few  of  the 
trailing  Lobelias  (Lobefia  erinus)  or  a  few  Nasturtiums. 

In  a  corner  where  you  want  something  out  of  the  ordinary,  plant  a 
few  seeds  of  the  Giant  Spider  plant  (Cleome).  The  flowers  are  rosy  crim- 
son, and  possess  long  filaments  and  pistils  followed  by  long,  slender  seed 
pods.    They  are  strong,  attractive,  but  a  trifle  weedy. 

Edge  a  bed  of  Cannas  or  other  tall  plants  with  Fountain  Grass  (Penni- 
setum). 

To  combine  with  bouquets,  grow  a  little  clump  of  Cloud  Grass  (Agros- 
tis  nebulosa). 

For  the  Sweet  Pea  bouquets  do  not  neglect  planting  some  Baby's 
Breath  (Gypsophila  elegans) .  This  will  look  weU  grown  in  a  bed  with  an- 
nual Larkspurs  or  with  Stocks.  Baby's  Breath  must  be  planted  several 
times  during  the  season  if  a  continuous  supply  is  needed. 

Some  persons  admire  smaU  hedges  of  Summer  Cypress,  or  Kochia, 
but  this  plant  turns  a  very  bad  bluish-crimson  color  in  Autumn — a  color 
which  harmonizes  with  nothing. 

When  the  season  does  not  prove  too  moist,  or  when  planted  upon 
sandy  soils,  the  dwarf  or  cupid  Sweet  Peas  are  excellent.  They  bear  rather 
long  stems  and  very  good  flowers. 

No  annual  flower  blooms  for  so  long  a  time  as  the  Petunia.  If  the 
colors  can  be  selected  before  setting  the  plants  into  the  bed,  the  results  will 


94  GARDEN  GUIDE 

be  better.  It  will  be  unnecessary  to  combine  them  with  anything  else,  as 
they  are  all-sufficient,  and  are  as  useful  for  beds  two  feet  square  as  for  huge 
borders  a  hundred  feet  long  and  four  wide. 

Where  a  dainty  blue  edging  plant  is  wanted,  use  Swan  River  Daisy, 
(Brachycome) ,  placing  the  plants  about  six  inches  apart. 

If  you  must  neglect  your  garden,  but  want  a  good  show  of  color,  try 
huge  beds  of  Zinnias  or  Marigolds. 

If  you  wonder  what  to  use  for  edging  any  bed,  decide  to  use  Sweet 
Alyssum ;  it  is  a  most  adaptable  border  plant.  When  it  appears  to  be  nearly 
through  blooming,  cut  it  back  and  it  will  start  up  again. 

Everlasting  Flowers 

It  is  always  interesting  to  grow  a  few  everlasting  or  "straw" 

flowers.    If  they  are  picked  in  their  proper  stages,  the  leaves  removed 

and  the  blooms  hung  upside  down  to  dry,  they  will  present  a  pretty 

appearance  all  Winter.    The  principal  annual  specimens  are: 

Helichr YSUM  BRACTEATUM  (Straw  Flower) .    One  of  the  largest  everlasting 

flowers.    There  are  many  shades  of  yellow  and  red.    They  grow  two 

to  three  feet  tall  and  need  to  be  planted  one  foot  apart  if  they  are  to 

develop  properly.     They  should  be  picked  before  they  are  fully  open. 

Helipterum  roseum.    Bears  dainty  white  and  rosy  pink  flowers.     They 

should  be  cut  when  quite  in  bud;  they  open  a  little  after  being  picked, 

otherwise  the  centers  are  visible  and  being   brown    give  a  shabby 

appearance  to  the  otherwise  attractive  flower.     It  is  pretty  for  the 

border,  aside  from  its  being  good  for  the  Winter  bouquet. 

Helipterum  Manglesii   (Rhodanthe)   (Swan  River  Everlasting).     The 

Rowers  are  pink  and  white;  the  stems  are  very  graceful. 
Helipterum   Hc/mboldtianum.      Bears   a    yellow   flower,    smaller   than 

others  but  numerous. 
Gomphrena  globosa  (Globe  Amaranth).    The  straw-like  heads  resemble 

Clover.     The  two  colors  are  a  crimson  and  a  rather  muddy  white. 
Xeranthemum  annuum  (Everlasting  or  Immortelle).  Bears  rose,  purple, 
and  white  flowers.     As  a  garden  subject  they  retain  their  bloom  from 
early  Summer  till  frost 
Catananche  c^rulea.      Blue  and  yellow  varieties  are  available.    Some- 
what resembles  Bachelor's  Buttons. 

Useful  for  Cut  Flowers 

Many  of  the  annuals  are  useful  for  cutting  because  they  have  long 
stems,  good  keeping  qualities  or  excellent  colors.  They  commend 
themselves  admirably  for  arrangements  in  the  low  bowls  which  are 
beginning  to  be  used  and  are  of  such  great  value  for  a  proper  loose 
display  of  flowers. 

Acroclinium    (See  Helipterum  roseum  in  list  of  Everlasting  Flowers). 
African  Daisy  (See  Arctotis). 
Antirrhinum    (Snapdragon).        This  is  gaining  greatly  in  its  deserved 

popularity.     Almost  all  the  colors  are  good. 
Amethyst  (See  Browallia). 
Annual  Larkspur  appears  in  superb  pink,  blues,-  lavenders  and  has  dainty 

foliage  and  good  keeping  qualities. 


ANNUALS  AND  BIENNIALS 


95 


Arctotis  grandis  (African  Daisy).  This  is  a, very  handsome  Daisy-hke 
annual,  the  flowers  of  which  are  a  bluish  white,  the  under  surface  being 
rather  bluish  gray.     The  buds  open  nicely  after  the  flowers  are  cut. 

Baby's  Breath  (See  Gypsophila). 

Bachelor's  Button  (See  Centaurea). 

Blanket  Flower  (See  Gaillardia). 

Browallia  demissa  (Amethyst).  A  very  graceful  little  blue  or  white 
annual  which  is  prettily  used  in  bouquets. 

Butterfly  Flower  (See  Schizanthus). 


Larkspur  (Delphinium) 

Calendula  officinalis  (Pot  Marigold) .  Bear  strong,  golden  orange  and 
lemon  colored  flowers.  They  will  bloom  for  a  long  season  if  the  seed 
pods  are  kept  ofi". 

Candytuft.  The  varieties  are  pure  white  as  well  as  lavender  and 
crimson.     They  are  very  useful  for  all  sorts  of  cut  flower  purposes. 

Centaurea  cyanea  (Bachelor's  Button).  Furnishes  some  of  finest  blues. 
Is  an  excellent  keeper  when  cut. 

Centaurea  imperialis  and  Americana  (Sweet  Sultan).  Dainty  rose, 
light  lavender  and  white  thistle-like  flowers;  long  stems;  excellent  for 
vases  and  baskets.    C  maritima  is  often  called  Dusty  Miller. 


96  GARDEN  GUIDE 

China  Aster.    This  is  perhaps  the  very  best  annual  for  cutting. 
Coreopsis  tinctoria,  Drummondii  (Coreopsis,  or  Calliopsis).     Appears 

in  excellent  golden  and  maroon  color  combinations.     The  stems  are 

long  and  wiry. 
Corn,  Variegated  (See  Zea,  under  "Foliage  Annuals"). 
Cosmos.     One  of  best  tall  annuals,  and  one  of  the  latest  to  bloom,  is  Cos- 
mos.    Procure  the  earliest  varieties  for  Northern  planting. 
Dusty  Miller.    Unexcelled  for  gray  effects. 
Euphorbia  (See  Poinsettia,  under  "Lesser  Known  Annuals"). 
Everlasting  (AppUed  to  HeUchrysum,  Helipterum,  Xeranthemum  and 

some  others) . 
Forget-me-not.     This  dainty  blue  flower  has  a  greater  hold  upon  our 

sentimental  admiration  than  almost  any  flower  except  the  Rose. 
Fountain  Grass  (Pennisetum).     Dainty,  hairy  spikes. 
Gaillardia   (Blanket  Flower).     Resplendent  in  shades  of  orange  and 

scarlet. 
Globe  Amaranth  (See  Gomphrena,  under  "Everlasting  Flowers"). 
GoDETiA.    Excellent  satiny  petals  and  some  very  good  colors  appear. 
Gypsophila  (Baby's  Breath).    Unexcelled  for  bouquets.    The  fine,  misty, 

white  flowers  lend  to  any  decoration  a  grace  which  cannot  be  duplicated 

by  any  other  annual. 
Immortelle  (See  Xeranthemum,  under  "Everlasting  Flowers"). 
LovE-iN-A-MiST  (See  Nigella), 

Love-Lies-Bleeding  (See  Amaranthus,  under  "Foliage  Annuals"). 
Lupines.    Free  flowering.    There  are  excellent  pink,  blue  and  light  yellow 

varieties. 
Marigold,  African.    This  flower  is  rather  coarse,  but  always  thrifty. 
Marigold,  Pot.     (See  Calendula). 
Mignonette  is  indispensable  because  of  its  supreme  fragrance.    The  less 

beautiful  kinds  are  apt  to  be  the  most  fragrant. 
Nasturtium.    For  brilliancy  of  color,  prolificacy  of  bloom  and  novelty  of 

form,  few  flowers  can  rival  the  Nasturtium. 
Nigella  damascena  (Love-in-a-Mist).     Excellent  fine  foliage  and  pretty 

blue  flowers. 
Pansy.    It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  Pansy  only  grows  during  the 

cool,  early  days  of  Spring  or  Fall.     It  must  be  planted  accordingly, 

best  when  sown  in  August. 
Papaver  Rh^as  (Shirley  Poppies).     With  their  silky  petalage  and  good 

colors,  these  make  good  cut  flowers  if  picked  when  in  bud. 
Phlox  Drummondii  (Phlox,  Drummond's).  The  real,  briUiant,  clear  colors 

of  this  annual  Phlox  are  admirable  for  small  vases. 
Poppies,  Shirley  (See  Papaver  Rhgeas). 

Rhodanthe  (See  Helipterum  Manglesii,  under  "Everlasting  Flowers"). 
Ribbon  Grass  (See  Phalaris,  under  "Foliage  Annuals"). 
ScABiosA  (Scabious).    Excellent  long  stems — good  colors  lend  themselves 

to  pretty  vase  decorations. 
Scabious  (See  Scabiosa). 
ScHizANTHUS  (Butterfly  Flower).    One  of  the  fairy-looking  flowers.    Give 

a  little  shade  in  the  garden. 
Senecio  Cineraria,  var.  candidissimus,  also  generally  known  as  Dusty 

Miller. 
Snapdragon  (See  Antirrhinum). 


ANNUALS  AND  BIENNIALS  97 

Squirrel's  Tail  Grass  (See  Hordeum,  under  " Foliage  Annuals"). 
Summer  Cypress  (See  Kochia,  under  " Foliage  Annuals"). 
Straw  Flower  (See  Helichrysum,  under  " Everlasting  Flowers"). 
Sweet  Peas.    An  ideal  annual;  see  Contents  for  special  article. 
Sweet  Sultan  (See  Centaurea  imperialis). 

Tar  WEED  (See  Madia  elegans,  under  "Lesser  Known  Annuals"). 
Wishrone  Flower  (See  Torenia,  under  "Lesser  Known  Annuals"). 
Youth  and  Old  Age  (See  Zinnia). 

Zinnia  (Youth  and  Old  Age).    A  universally  admired  flower  because  of  its 
rich  appearance  and  ease  of  culture. 

Lesser  Known  Annuals 

For  those  who  have  tried  the  commonest  annuals,  a  few  others  of 
interest  should  be  mentioned.  Each  year  the  catalogues  list  a  new 
introduction  from  other  countries  or  a  unique  series  of  hybrids.  These 
novelties  are  sometimes  excellent,  but  being  expensive  and  of  doubtfi^l 
value  for  the  changed  climates  and  soils,  they  should  be  bought  only 
as  experiments  and  not  planted  directly  into  beds  in  which  a  good 
show  must  be  depended  upon. 

The  plants  in  the  following  list  are  not  especially  new,  but  are 
rarely  seen  in  our  gardens,  although  they  have  a  value. 
Alonsoa  acutifolia.     Attractive  coral  colored  flower;  compact  plants. 
Anchusa  capensis  (Cape  Alkanet).     Very  pretty,  minute  blue  flowers, 

but  tend  to  go  to  seed  rapidly. 
Ar  GEM  one    grandiflora    (Mexican    Prickly    Poppy),      Foliage    spiny; 

flowers  yeUow. 
Cacalia  coccinea  (See  Emilia). 
Cerinthe  retorta.     a  unique  annual  bearing  spotted  leaves  and  yeflow 

tubular  inverted  flowers,  tipped  with  purple. 
DiAsciA  Barbers.      Bears  a  rose  or  orange  colored  spurred  flower. 
Emilia  flammea  (Cacalia  coccinea)  (Tassel  Flower).    An  intense  scarlet. 

Should  be  planted  at  least  four  inches  apart.     Self  sows. 
Erysimum    Perofskianum.      One   of   deepest   orange   colored    annuals. 

Earhest  culture. 
GiLiA  CAPiTATA.    The  light  drab  flowers  are  borne  in  miniature  heads. 
Layia  elegans.     Pretty  dwarf  yeUow  annuals,  with  flowers  about  an 

inch  in  diameter. 
Madia^elegans  (Tarweed).     Very  distinct  yellow  flowers  and  glandular 

heavily  scented  foliage. 
Mentzelia  Lindleyi   (Bartonia  aurea).     YeUow  flowers.     Plant  where 

they  are  to  grow.    Fragrant  in  evening. 
Nemophila  insignis.     Excellent  pure  deep  blue. 
Phacelia  campanularia.    Bears  blue  flowers  resembling  the  Canterbury 

BeUs. 
PoiNSETTiA  heterophylla,  or  Painted  Leaf.     Leaves  are  dark  green, 

except  the  upper,  which  are  bright  red  at  the  base. 
Salvia  farinacea.    Very  pretty  foliage  and  almost  white  flowers. 
Sanvitalia  procumbens.     a  dwarf,  compact  annual,  useful  for  edging; 

very  prolific  of  blooms. 
Torenia  Fournieri  (Wishbone  Flower).     A  very  pretty  blue  or  white, 

yellow  spotted  flower. 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Annuals  for  Edging  Beds  of  Other  Plants 

Dwarf  Snapdragon        Petunia 

French  Marigold 

Lobelia  (Lobelia  eri- 
nus) 

Madagascar  Peri- 
winkle (Vinca  ro- 
sea) 

Nasturtium  Tom 

Thumb 


Ageratum 
Annual  Phlox 
California  Poppy 
Baby's  Breath 
Calliopsis  (Dwarf) 
Candytuft 
Dwarf  Marigold 

(Tagetes     signata 

primula) 


Portulaca 
San  viT  alia 
Scarlet  Flax 
Swan  River  Daisy 
Sweet  Alyssum 
Verbena 


Foliage   Annuals 


RiciNus  communis  (Castor  Oil  Bean).     One  of  the  tallest,  most  rampant 

growing  annuals. 
Senecio  cinerarioides  and  Centaurea  gymnocarpa  (Dusty  Miller). 

Unexcelled  for  gray  effects. 
Pennisetum  (Fountain  Grass).    Dainty  and  graceful  hairy  spikes. 
Amaranthus  caudatus  (Love-Lies -Bleeding).    Foliage  deep  maroon  often. 
Mexican  Horned  Poppy.     The  deep  green  leaves  are  veined  with  white. 
Phalaris  arundinacea,  var.  picta  (Ribbon  Grass).    A  very  useful  grass 

for  bouquets  as  well  as  landscape  effect. 
HoRDEUM  jubatum  (Squirrel's  Tail  Grass).     Spike  resembles  a  squirrel's 

tail.    Adds  a  very  graceful  touch  to  the  border  or  bouquet. 
KocHiA  tricophylla  (Summer  Cypress).     Makes  a  formal  cypress-like 

plant.    In  Autumn  turns  a  bluish  crimson,  at  which  time  it  seems  a 

poor  color. 
Zea  Mays  japonica  (Variegated  Corn).    Useful  for  bouquets  of  Gladioli 

or  Red  Hot  Pokers. 

Biennials 

This  is  a  class  of 
plants    which 


"3 

"■'■^^ 

f 

I^w^^hI^HI:. 

lives 
years. 


Hedge   of  Ipomceas,  or  Morning  Glories, 
doors  at  the  end  of  May 


Sow  out  of 


but  two 
The  seed 
can  be  sown  in 
the  Summer  or 
early  Autumn 
one  year;  the 
young  plants 
form  a  rosette  of 
leaves  but  do  not 
bloom  until  the 
following  year, 
after  which  they 
usually  die.  One 
of  our  common- 


ANNUALS  AND  BIENNEALS 


99 


est  garden  plants  is  a  biennial,  namely,  Foxglove.  Many  other 
plants  are  best  treated  as  biennials,  as,  for  example,  some  Campanulas, 
Hollyhocks,  Anchusa  and  Sweet  Wilham,  all  of  which  decline  after 
two  years.  There  are  few  plants  to  rival  the  Foxglove;  it  possesses 
such  excellent  fohage  that  nothing  need  ever  be  planted  at  its  base; 
besides,  the  stately  spires  of  inverted  glove  fingers  are  most  attractive. 
Biennials  are  best  protected  for  the  Winter  by  pulling  the  leaves 
together  and  packing  straw  between  them,  in  which  case  they  seem 
to  stand  the  cold  nicely.  If  poorly  protected  the  center  of  the  plant 
decays,  leaving  it  hollow;  the  stems  then  do  not  become  strong  enough 
to  bear  the  truss  of  bloom;  at  the  same  time  the  excellent  foliage  is 
entirely  gone.  This  is  too  often  the  case  with  the  beautiful  Canter- 
bury Bells  (Campanula  Medium),  which  should  not  be  too  thickly 
covered  but  properly  handled. 


Always  consult  Index  to  Contents. 
Familiarize  yourself  with  it.  There 
are  hundreds  of  good  things  in  this 
book  that  will  escape  your  attention 
if  you  do  not  use  the  Index  freely. 


For  a  complete  work  on  the  subject  of  this 
chapter  we  recommend 
THE  BOOK  OF  ANNUALS,  by  Henry  H.  Saylor.  Fifty  of  the  most 
dependable  annual  flowering  plants  are  shown  in  full-page  photographic 
reproductions,  opposite  each  of  which  is  given  a  page  of  descriptive  text  that 
tells  just  what  the  gardener  wants  to  know  about  that  plant — how  high  it  grows, 
the  color  of  its  flowers,  when  to  plant  seed,  and  so  on.  Price,  $1.30  postpaid. 
Secure  your  copy  where  you  bought  your  Garden  Guide. 


100 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


GERMINATION  TABLE  OF  FLOWER  SEEpSf 

*  Represents  an  Indefinite  Number  of  Days. 


Days 

Abutilon 20 

Acroclinium 15 

African  Golden  Daisy.    15 

Agapanthus 20 

Agathsea  coelestis 20 

Ageratum 5 

Alyssum. 5 

Ampelopsis 15 

Anchusa. . ., ._  •  . .   20 

Anemone,  St.  Brigid.  .    15 

Antirrhinum 20 

Aquilegia 15 

Arctotis  grandis 20 

Asparagus 30 

Asters 8 

Asters,  Perennial 15 

Baby's  Breath 20 

Ball  of  Fire 15 

Bachelor's  Button. ...    *5 

Balloon  Vine 25 

Balsams 10 

Begonias 15 

Bellis  perennis 5 

Boston  Ivy 15 

Blanket  Flower 20 

Blue-eyed  Daisy 20 

Blue  Day  Flower 20 

Blue  Salvia *15 

Brachycome 8 

Brazilian  Morning 

Glory 8 

Browallia 20 

Brugmansia  arborea.  .  15 
Bush  Eschscholtzia. . .     8 

Butterfly  Pea 15 

Cactus 30 

Calendula 10 

California  Poppy 8 

Campanula 8 

Canary-bird  Flower.. .     * 

Candytuft 5 

Cannas *15 

Canterbury  Bells *15 

Cardinal  Climber 5 

Carnations 8 

Carnations,  Perennial.     8 

Castor  Beans 15 

Celosia 20 

Centaurea *5 

Centrosema 15 

Chinese  Bellflower..  . .  20 
Christmas  Orchid 

Flower 20 

Chrysanthemums 5 

Cigar  Plant *8 

Cineraria 5 

Clematis,  Tuberous..  .*30 

Cleome  pungens 20 

Cobaea  scandens 15 


Days 

Cockscomb 20 

Coixlachryma * 

Coleus 20 

Columbine 15 

Commelina 10 

Coreopsis 20 

Cornflower  Aster * 

Cosmos 5 

Crimson  Flax 8 

Cuphea *8 

Cyclamen 25 

Cyperus  alternifolius. .  25 

Cypress  Vine 5 

Dahlias 5 

Daisies 20 

Daturas 15 

Delphinium 15 

Dianthus 5 

Digitalis 20 

Dimorphotheca 15 

Dolichos 15 

Dusty  Miller *5 

Echinocystis *30 

English  Double  Daisy.     5 

Eschscholtzia 5 

Euphorbia 20 

Evening  Primrose.  ...     5 

Everlasting  Flowers.  .  * 

Feverfew 20 

Fire-Cracker  Plant.  .  .  *8 

Fire-on-the-Mountain.  20 

Forget-Me-Not 15 

Four  O'clock 5 

Foxglove 20 

Fuchsia *30 

Gaillardia 20 

Geraniums 20 

Gloxinia 15 

Godetia 15 

Gourds 15 

Grass  Seed * 

Gypsophila 20 

Helianthus 15 

Helichrysum 6 

Heliotrope 15 

Heuchera  sanguinea .  .  20 

Hibiscus *15 

Hollyhocks 5 

Hop,  Japanese 15 

Horn  of  Plenty 15 

Humble  Plant 8 

Hunnemannia 8 

Hyacinth   Bean,  Jap- 
anese   15 

Ice  Plant *5 

Impatiens  Sultani.  ...  15 

Ipomoeas 5 

Iris *50 


Days 

Ivies * 

Jack-and-the- 

Beanstalk 15 

Japanese  Bean 15 

Japanese  Hop 15 

Japan  Iris *50 

Jerusalem  Cherry *20 

Job's  Tears * 

Kenil worth  Ivy 5 

Kochia  scoparia 15 

Kudzu  Vine 15 

Lantana 15 

Larkspur 15 

Lathyrus 25 

Lavender 20 

Lemon  Verbena 8 

Linaria 5 

Linum 8 

Lobelias 8 

Love-in-a-Mist 8 

Lychnis 20 

Mallow  Marvels *15 

Marigold 5 

Marvel  of  Peru 5 

Maurandya *25 

Mexican  Fire  Plant..  .  20 

Mesembryanthemum.  *5 

Mignonette 5 

Mimosa 8 

Mimulus 8 

Mina  lobata 5 

Mirabilis 5 

Monkey  Flower 20 

Moonvines 20 

Morning  Glory 5 

Mountain  Honey- 
suckle    20 

Mourning  Bride 20 

Musk  Plant 20 

Nasturtium,     Dwarf 

Tall 8 

Nicotiana 20 

Nigella 8 

CEnothera 5 

Ornamental  Grasses.  .  * 

Ostrich-Plume 20 

Oxalis 20 

Palm 15 

Painted  Tongue 5 

Pansies 8 

Passion  Flower 50 

Peas,  Sweet 15 

Pelargoniums 20 

Pentstemon 20 

Perennial  Peas 25 

Petunias 20 

Pheasant-Eye  Pink. . .  5 


(tFrom  the  Catalogue  of  Conard  &  Jones) 


GERMINATION  TABLE 


101 


Days 

Phlox 20 

Pinks 5 

Platycodon '30 

Poppies 20 

Portulaca 20 

Primroses "15 

Primulas *lo 

Pueraria  Thun- 

bergiana 15 

Ragged  Robin 20 

Ricinus 15 

Rose * 

Rose,  AIoss 20 

Salpiglossis 5 

Salvia *35 

Scabiosa.: 20 

Scarlet  Runner 8 


Days 

Scarlet  Sage *15 

Schizanthus 20 

Seeds   tor   Vases  and 

Baskets ♦ 

Sensitive  Plani, 20 

Shasta  Daisy 20 

Srailax 15 

Snap  iragon 20 

Solanum *20 

Spider  Plant 20 

Stocks 5 

Stokesia * 

Straw  Flower 5 

Summer  Bush  Cypress  15 

Sunflower 15 

Sun  Plant 20 

Swan  River  Daisy 8 


Days 

Sweet  Peas 15 

Sweet  Sultan *5 

Sweet  William 10 

Ten-Weeks  Stocks.... 

Umbrella  Plant 

Verbena 8 

Vinca * 

Violas * 

Violets * 

Wallflower 5 

Water-Lilies * 

Wedding  Bells 15 

Wild  Cucumber  Vine.  *30 

Youth  and  Old  Age...  5 

Yucca * 

Zinnias 5 


An  early  Summer  scene 


102 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


most  pleasing  combination  of  garden  favorites 


CHAPTER  VllI 


Some  Garden  Favorites  and  How 
to  Grow  Them 

Asters — Cannas — Campanulas — Coleus — Columbines  —  Dahlias 
Chrysanthemums  and  Daisies — Delphiniums — Foxglove — 
Geraniums  —  Gladioli  —  Hibiscus  —  Irises  —  Lathyrus  —  Lilies 
— Marigold  —  Pansies  —  Peonies  —  Petunias  —  Phlox  —  Pinks 
— Poppy- -Salvia — Snapdragons — Sweet  Peas — Sweet  William — 
Tritomas — Tuberous  Begonias — Zinnias 

THE  ASTERS 

ASTERS  as  they  are  recognized  today  are  what  have  resulted  from 
.  the  development  and  improvement  of  the  China  Aster.     The 
real  Asters  are  small,  Daisy-like  flowers,  resembling  the  single- 
flowered  China  Aster  and  known  in  England  as  Michsehnas  Daisies. 

There  are  all  sorts  of  types 
of  China  Asters,  all  of  which 
have  been  improved  from  one 
single-flowered  sort.  They  are 
annuals,  easy  of  culture,  and 
with  their  profusion  of  bloom 
and  color  make  a  brilliant  gar- 
den display,  particularly  in  the 
Autumn.  The  best  types  to 
grow  are  the  Branching,  with 
long,  strong  stems;  the  Crego, 
HohenzoUern,  and  Comet,  all 
of  which  are  flat- flowered;  the 
King,  which  has  long  needle- 
hke  petals,  and  the  ball-like 
sorts,  as  Victorias,  Trufl"aut, 
and  Peony -flowered  Perfection. 
There  are  early,  medium  and 
late  kinds.  The  later  flowering 
sorts  are  most  successful  with 
the  home  gardener. 

The  seeds  of  the  earher  va- 
rieties may  be  started  in  the 
hotbed  or  window  in  March. 
For  late  Summer  and  Autumn 

103 


China  "Comet"  Asters 
To  be  had  in  all  sorts  of  types  and  a 
multiplicity  of  colors 


104 


GARDEN  GUIDE^ 


flowers  sowings  may  be  made  in  the  open  ground  in  April  or  May. 
Vigorous  growth  is  encouraged  by  two  transplantings.  When  the 
seedlings  are  large  enough  to  handle  transfer  to  flats  or  beds.  Trans- 
plant again  when  the  plants  are  three  or  four  inches  high,  setting 
them  where  they  are  to  bloom,  twelve  to  fifteen  inches  apart;  the 
branching  sorts  need  more  room  to  develop.  Do  not  let  the  plants 
get  a  check  in  any  way  due  to  want  of  water,  or  cramping  of  root 
system.  A  rich,  well  prepared  soil  suits  them  best.  Wood  ashes  or 
slaked  lime  incorporated  with  the  soil  will  do  much  to  prevent  root 
and  stem  diseases  to  which  Asters  are  liable. 

THE  CANNAS 

These  handsome  subjects  mark  a  wonderful  development  by  the 
plant  breeder.  At  first  the  Cannas  were  only  prized  as  fohage  plants; 
the  petals  were  narrow  and  the  flower  was  very  unattractive.  Now 
we  have  an  excellent  series  of  wonderful  Cannas  with  superbly  colored 
gigantic  flowers,  :ill  of  which  are  of  easy  culture  and  great  value  for 
the  garden,  where  they  are  planted  in  formal  beds  or  mixed  in  the 
perennial  border. 

Starting  Cannas 

In  March  the  roots, 
which  have  been  stored 
during  the  Winter,  are  best 
cut  up  so  that  there  are 
one  to  three  buds  or  eyes 
on  each  piece.  They  can 
then  be  planted  in  boxes 
of  sand  or  sandy  soil  and 
placed  in  a  light  window. 
If  the  season  is  late  and 
the  plants  get  rather  large, 
they  should  be  placed  in 
pots;  those  four  inches 
high  are  generally  large 
enough. 

Cannas  are  tender  and 
should  not  be  planted  in 
the  open  ground  before  all 
danger  of  frost  is  past. 
There  is  no  advantage  in 
planting  too  early,  for  they  , 
do  not  make  good  growth  till  the  ground  becomes  thoroughly  warm. 


Cannas  are  easy  to  grow  and  well  repay  the 
slight  labor  required 


CANNAS 


105 


Preparing  Canna  Bed 

Spread  a  wheelbarrow  load  of  well-rotted  manure  over  each  square 
yard  of  soil  and  dig  deeply:  the  soil  should  be  loosened  to  a  depth  of 
fifteen  to  eighteen  inches.  The  deeper  the  digging  the  better  will  the 
bed  absorb  water.  .  Large-leaved  plants  always  require  lots  of  water. 
Careful  attention  must  be  given  to  the  question  of  the  planting  of  va- 
rieties of  harmonious  colors  as  well  as  of  the  proper  heights.  We  give 
herewith  a  hst  of  select  varieties: 

Eureka,  white,  4}/2  ft.  high.  Sensation,  pink,  3  ft.;  City  of  Port- 
land, pink,  33^  ft.  King  Humbert,  red,  4}^  to  5  ft.;  Meteor,  red, 
5  ft.;  Firebird,  red,  4  ft.;  Fiery  Cross,  red,  4  ft.  Favorite,  yellow  and 
variegated,  4J/2  ft.;  Panama,  yellow  and  variegated,  3  ft.;  San  Diego, 
yellow  and  variegated,  4  ft. 

A  supplementary  hst  of  equally  fine  varieties  contains  the  follow- 
ing: Wyoming,  reddish  bronze  leaves  and  ochre  colored  flowers;  tall 
and  good;  Richard  Wallace,  soft  creamy  primrose  trusses  and  green 
foliage;  effective  and  desirable:  compact  habit;  Venus,  deep  pink 
flowers,  dark  green  foliage,  sturdy  grower:  Souv.  de  Anthony  Crozy, 
brilliant  scarlet  and  gold,  flowers  large,  a  free  bloomer  and  dwarf; 
J.  D.  Eisele,  rich  orange  scarlet,  5  ft.,  one  of  the  very  best.  Rosea 
Gigantea,  has  immense  flowers  of  a  deep  old  rose  color;  one  of  the 
finest  and  most  beautiful;  Mrs.  Alfred  Conard,  salmon  pink,  large 
and  fine;  Feurnur,  intense  orange,  5  ft.,  a  good  Canna;  Gustav  Gump- 


Even  as  a  foliage  plant,  without  flowers,  the  Canna  is  beautiful 


106  GARDEN  GUIDE 

per,  the  best  golden  yellow.  Others  of  prime  excellence  comprise 
Florence  Vaughan,  tall  growing,  flowers  rich  yellow  and  scarlet. 
Mme.  Grozy,  dwarf  brilliant  scarlet  with  gold  center;  Prof.  Myers, 
dark  fohage,  crimson  flowers;  Gladiator,  resembles  Florence  Vaughan, 
or  vice-versa,  but  not  so  tall  and  has  more  red  splashes  on  the  yellow; 
Wm.  Saunders,  reddish  foliage  and  scarlet  trusses;  Queen  Gharlotte, 
matures  early,  flowers  crimson  with  yellow  edge;  Jean  Fiscot,  one  of 
the  dwarf  est,  flowers  crimson;  Reubens,  medium  grower,  dark  foliage 
and  crimson  flowers. 

For  the  sake  of  its  handsome  shining  green  foliage,  and  its  general 
statehness,  Ganna  gigantea  is  recommended.  It  is  very  handsome 
next  to  the  walls  of  one's  house. 

Gannas  usuafly  spread  a  little  and,  as  they  are  large  growing, 
should  be  planted  at  least  eighteen  inches  apart.  The  Orchid-flowering 
varieties  require  from  twenty  to  twenty-two  inches  between  the  plants. 
In  planting  firm  the  roots  well  and  cover  with  four  to  five  inches  of  soil. 

Cannas  from  Seed 

Because  of  the  extreme  hardness  of  the  shells,  Ganna  seeds  should 
be  soaked  for  a  few  days  before  planting.  The  seeds  are  also  frequently 
nicked  with  a  file  or  sharp  knife.  Sow  half  an  inch  deep  in  a  sandy 
loam  in  a  box  or  pot  and  place  in  a  hotbed  or  some  other  warm  location. 
When  large  enough  to  handle  pot  off  singly  and  keep  under  glass  until 
the  open  beds  are  ready  to  receive  them. 

Digging  and  Storing.  When  the  tops  are  killed  by  the  frost 
the  roots  can  be  dug  in  the  morning,  and  if  the  day  is  sunny  they  can 
be  left  to  dry.  They  must  be  stored  where  they  can  be  kept  warm, 
for  if  they  are  cold  and  damp  they  decay.  They  may  either  be  buried 
in  sand  or  soil,  although  sand  is  preferable.  If  a  greenhouse  is  available 
the  roots  may  be  stored  under  the  benches.  It  is  really  unnecessary  to 
wait  until  the  tops  die  down,  for  the  beds  may  be  wanted  to  plant 
with  bulbs,  in  which  case  let  the  Gannas  grow  as  long  as  possible  and 
then  dig  them. 

THE  CAMPANULAS  •  Bellflowers 

The  Bellflowers  have  ever  been  popular;  the  form  of  the  bell 
appeals  to  everybody.  All  round  the  world  these  Gampanulas  have 
been  christened  with  names  which  show  the  admiration  of  the  folks 
for  them. 

The  number  of  species  under  cultivation  is  great.  None  is  more 
popular  than  the  huge  Ganterbury  Bells  (G.  Medium)  and  form  known 


CAMPANULAS 


107 


as  Cup  and  Saucer  (CM.  caly- 
canthema)  from  its  having  saucers 
beneath  the  flaring  chahces.  Bear- 
ing smaller  flowers  and  less  cup-like 
is  the  graceful  Peach-leaved  Cam- 
panula {C.  persicifolia) ,  named 
from  its  narrow  leaves.  There  is 
also  the  stately  Chimney  Cam- 
panula (C.  pyramidahs'i  the  tall- 
est growing  sort. 

Two  smaller-growing  but 
very  ornamental  sorts  must  be 
mentioned,  namely,  the  Car- 
pathian Harebell  (C.  carpathica) 
and  the  Rocky  Mountain  Hare- 
bell (C.  rotundifolia). 

Canterbury  Bells  are  bienni- 
als, i.  e.,  they  are  sown  one  year 
and  bloom  and  die  the  next.  Sow 
seed  in  the  Spring  and  transplant 
in  late  Fall,  putting  the  seedhngs 
where  they  are  to  remain  perma- 
nently, or  in  cold  frames  until  time 
for  planting  out.  Protect  during  the  Canterbury  BeUs 

Winter  with  leaves  or  stable  litter,  but  avoid  covering  the  tops  or  crowns. 

COLEUS 

For  grouping  on  lawns,  ribboning  and  carpet  bedding  the  Coleus 
is  one  of  the  most  useful  and  attractive  of  ornamental  plants.  It  is  a 
tender  perennial,  grows  from  a  foot  to  two  feet  high,  and  the  colors 
and  variegations  of  its  foHage  are  rich  and  beautiful.  Using  shallow 
pots  or  pans,  sow  the  seed  in  March  or  April  in  good,  mellow  soil,  cover- 
ing Ughtly  with  earth;  maintain  an  even  temperature  and  do  not  allow 
the  soil  to  become  dry.  When  the  weather  is  settled  and  warm,  trans- 
fer the  seedlings  to  the  open  ground,  preferably  in  a  sheltered  situation. 
Under  favorable  conditions,  they  will  attain  perfection  the  flrst  season. 
As  a  border  for  beds  of  flowering  plants,  Coleus  stands  without  a 
rival,  and,  by  judicious  pinching  out  of  the  tips  of  the  shoots,  the 
plants  can  be  maintained  at  any  desired  height,  to  conform  to  the 
size  of  the  other  plants  in  the  bed,  and  still  retain  their  beautiful 
color  effects.  The  Coleus  always  does  best  when  planted  out  in  the 
full  sunlight,  yet,  at  the  same  time,  it  is  a  plant  that  can  be  recom- 
mended for  partially  shaded  situations  as  well. 


108 


GARDEN  GUIDE 
THE  COLUMBINE  •  Aquilegia 


The  Columbine 

Seed  sown  one  year  blooms  the 

next 


Columbines  are  so  frail, 
yet  so  strong;  the  forms  are 
so  numerous  and  the  flowers 
so  varied  in  color,  that  they 
are  deserving  of  a  prominent 
place  in  every  garden. 

Seed  sown  one  year 
blooms  the  next.  The  crowns 
gradually  increase  in  size  until 
huge  clumps  are  formed.  Sow 
the  seed  in  a  prepared  bed  or 
in  the  coldframe  in  early 
Summer  and  wait  until  the 
next  year  for  results. 

Some  of  the  most  charm- 
ing forms  to  grow  are  the 
Rocky  Mountain  Columbine 
hybrids  (Aquilegia  cserulea), 
deep  blues  and  pinks,  long- 
spurred  ;  A .  chrysantha  hybrids, 
superb  clear  lemon  yellow  long- 
spurred  sorts;  A.  canadensis, 
the  yellow  and  red  wild  Colum- 
bine of  the  East;  and  A.  vul- 
garis, a  short-spurred  form. 


THE  DAHLIA 

There  is  little  question  why  the  Dahlia  has  gained  in  popularity. 
The  newer  varieties  win  our  admiration  as  soon  as  we  see  them.  Should 
you  insist  that  the  Dahha  is  very  formal  and  stiff  we  should  answer 
that  the  ones  to  which  you  refer  are  perhaps  stiff  because  they  were 
carefully  bred  for  regularity  and  synmietry,  and  you  would  look  upon 
them  as  triumphs  of  the  breeder's  art  if  you  knew  that  the  modern 
varieties  have  been  evolved  from  several  wild  Mexican  species.  Near 
Mexico  City,  at  an  altitude  of  one  thousand  to  two  thousand  feet 
above  that  of  the  city,  we  find  the  wild  forms  on  the  sides  of  the  deep 
ravines  in  partial  shade.    It  is  hot  in  the  daytime,  but  really  gets  oold 


DAHLIAS 


109 


at  night.    How  nicely  this  explains  why  our  varieties  bloom  best  in 
the  cooler  days  of  Autumn. 

It  was  at  the  end  of  the  eighteenth  century  before  the  Dahlia 
reached  Europe  and  soon  after  three  varieties  were  known.  Soon 
doubles  were  produced.  The  flat  ones  were  first  very  popular;  then 
the  ball-shaped  blossoms  of  the  show  type  were  greatly  in  evidence. 
Between  1830  and  1860  the  interest  in  Dahhas  became  intense,  and 
great  premiums  were  paid  for  good  varieties.  Then  in  1870  fol- 
lowed varieties  which  were  flat- 
ter, less  formal  and  dehcately 
colored .  In  1 8  7  2  a  new  species, 
Dahlia  Jaurezii,  was  intro- 
duced. This  is  the  progenitor  of 
the  Cactus  Dahlias,  a  type  uni- 
versafly  admired  at  present  be- 
cause of  its  graceful  form  and 
delicate  coloring.  The  Cactus 
types  are  combined  with  the 
singles  to  produce  the  Peony- 
flowered  forms  from  which 
have  been  eliminated  the  weak 
stems,  resulting  in  an  exalted 
form,  and  well-shaped  blooms 
of  matchless  colors  borne  upon 
wonderfully  strong  plants.  The 
large-flowered  singles  are  hav- 
ing a  great  wave  of  popularity 
now,  for  they  are  often  beauti- 
fully colored.  In  1899  there 
was  a  pretty  type  produced  in 
France  in  which  there  is  a  row 
of  smaller  and  much  more  slen- 
der petals,  of  a  difl'erent  color, 
surrounding  the  central  disk  of 
an  otherwise  single  flower.  This 
type  has  been  termed  the  Col- 
larette Dahlia. 


Duplex  Form  of  Dahlia    - 

The  Dahlia  is  essentially  the  poor  man's 

flower  and  most  nobly  does  it  respond,  in 

its  innumerable  types,  to  its  really  trivial 

needs 


Cultivation 

The  Dahlia  is  typicaUy  FaU  blooming  and  succeeds  in  any  location 
where  kilhng  frosts  do  not  come  too  early.  If  the  plants  are  not  serious- 
ly checked  in  their  growth  by  frosts,  they  will  usuaUy  bloom  very  nicely 


110 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


in  most  parts  of  New  York  State,  New  England  and  the  Central 
West.  The  soils  best  adapted  to  Dahhas  are  those  which  are  somewhat 
sandy,  but  they  will  grow  on  heavy  clay.  The  regions  which  are  in- 
fluenced more  or  less  by  the  ocean,  that  is,  where  cool  nights  are  preva- 
lent, are  perhaps  the  most  noted  for  DahHa  growing,  especially  Long 
Island,  New  Jersey,  Rhode  Island,  Maryland  and  Massachusetts  in 
the  East,  and  without  a  doubt  the  best  Dahlias  we  have  ever  seen  were 
in  British  Columbia,  Northern  California,  Washington  and  Oregon. 
Heavy  soils  may  be  lightened  by  coal  ashes,  sand,  and  coarse  manure. 
Sandy  and  lighter  soils  will  benefit  by  manure  or  clay  to  make  them 
more  moisture-retaining.  Nitrogenous  fertilizers  are  rarely  applied, 
because  they  cause  too  great  vegetative  growth  and  a  retarding  of  the 
flowering  period. 


11151a  I:  lilt 
»    n  nil 


^^^^^^^^m^ 


!s^^'^'* 


^ 


Hedge  of  Dahlias  sorrounding  a  typical  home  in  Victoria,  B.  G. 

Starting  the  Tubers 

The  tubers  should  be  started  about  April  1st  in  a  warm,  light  room, 
merely  placing  them  in  a  shallow  box  of  sand  or  hght  soil.  When  the 
young  shoots  begin  to  show,  they  should  be  so  cut  that  one  or  two  eyes 
are  allowed  to  remain  on  each  piece;  the  eyes  start  from  the  collar 
(see  Contents  Plant  Propagation.) 


Time  and  Distance  of  Planting 

They  may  be  planted  late  in  April  or  May,  according  to  the  season. 
It  is  better  to  set  them  out  late  than  too  early.  As  the  Dahlia  makes 
a  large  plant  it  should  be  given  plenty  of  room;  even  four  feet  by  four 


DAHLIAS  111 

feet  is  not  too  much  if  the  variety  is  a  large  one.  Planted  much  closer 
the  plants  are  difficult  to  tend.  The  tubers  should  be  placed  about 
four  inches  deep,  planting  them  flat  or  in  such  a  position  that  the 
growing  point  is  faced  up  toward  the  surface  of  the  soil.  Firm  the  roots 
well. 

Supporting 

The  average  root  will  make  several  shoots.  Allow  them  to  grow 
until  they  make  the  first  set  of  leaves;  by  that  time  the  strongest  can 
be  selected  and  the  others  cut  away  below  the  surface  of  the  soil. 
Sometimes  two  shoots  may  be  allowed  to  grow,  but  never  more;  as  a 
rule  one  shoot  is  sufficient.  Tie  the  shoot  to  a  stake  when  about  a  foot 
high  and  do  not  neglect  tying  as  the  plant  develops,  for  this  is  very 
important.  To  cause  the  plants  to  branch  at  any  certain  height,  the 
tip  is  pinched  out;  this  causes  lateral  shoots  to  start. 

For  Attaining  Large  Flowers 

If  the  soil  is  carefully  and  dihgently  cultivated  there  will  be  little 
need  for  watering,  which  is  detrimental  unless  consistently  practiced. 
Thorough  watering  should  be  given  each  time  and  at  regular  intervals; 
otherwise  plants  will  be  checked  and  flowers  will  suff'er. 

In  order  that  each  individual  flower  may  be  as  large  as  possible, 
especially  in  the  case  of  the  show  and  fancy  types,  which  produce  a 
great  many  flowers  of  medium  size,  it  is  best  to  disbud  the  main 
branches  leaving  only  the  terminal  bud.  It  is  often  best  to  allow  only 
six  or  eight  branches.  The  singles,  collarettes  and  pompons  are  rarely 
pruned  or  disbudded,  the  idea  being  to  get  plants  with  as  many  flowers 
as  possible.  The  cactus  varieties  are  apt  to  have  their  weak  neck 
habit  intensified  by  excessive  pruning  and  disbudding,  so  that  they 
should  be  cautiously  disbudded,  removing  only  part  of  the  buds. 

Flowers  are  best  cut  in  the  morning  or  evening  and  any  foUage 
not  wanted  should  be  removed.  The  stems  should  then  be  placed  in 
water  up  to  the  base  of  the  flowers  and  removed  to  a  cool  place.  Hard- 
stemmed  varieties  are  best  placed  in  hot  water  and  allowed  to  remain 
until  the  water  cools,  when  they  should  be  removed  to  fresh  cold 
water.  Under  no  circumstances  attempt  to  ship  for  exhibition  with- 
out the  pre-cooling. 

Storage 

When  the  Autumn  killing  frosts  arrive,  perhaps  in  mid-October, 
and  the  foliage  is  killed,  take  up  the  plants  at  once  and  allow  them  to 


112  GARDEN  GUIDE 

dry  a  little  in  the  sun.  Gut  off  the  stems  so  that  a  stub  of  three  inches 
is  left.  Then  place  them  in  a  cellar  where  temperature  will  surely  re- 
main above  freezing,  about  forty  to  forty-five  degrees  F.  They  may 
best  be  placed  with  the  stems  down  on  shelves  and  covered  with  soil 
or  sand.  When  storing  large  tubers  it  may  not  be  necessary  to  cover 
them;  merely  place  them  in  a  heap  on  shelf  or  floor,  keeping  the  stems 
to  outside.  Do  not  let  them  get  dried  out;  if  they  shrivel,  sprinkle  a 
httle  water  over  them.     If  kept  too  moist  they  will  soon  mildew. 

The  Raising  of  Dahlias  from  Seed 

This  is  fascinating  work,  particularly  the  single  forms.  Of  these, 
if  the  seed  is  sown  in  a  frame  or  greenhouse  in  March,  the  plants  will 
come  into  bloom  in  July ;  they  will  also  flower  if  the  seed  is  sown  where 
it  is  to  remain,  the  same  as  most  of  the  annuals.  The  seed  of  the  double 
Dahlias  should  be  sown  in  February  or  March,  and  the  plants  grown  on 
the  same  as  if  from  cuttings.  With  good  care  they  will  come  into 
flower  early  in  September,  when  the  pleasure  commences.  The  cer- 
tainty of  getting  something  good  and  the  possibility  of  getting  a  flower 
worthy  a  name,  possibly  better  than  any  of  the  existing  forms  or  va- 
rieties, makes  this  branch  of  floriculture  of  extreme  interest. 

The  young  seedhngs  should  be  set  close  together,  not  more  than 
two  feet  apart;  when  they  come  into  flower  weed  out  such  as  are  not 
desirable  to  keep.  Another  reason  for  close  planting  is  that  except 
for  the  single  varieties,  the  plants  do  not  attain  in  their  first  season  as 
large  growth  as  if  from  tubers. 

Chrysanthemums  and  Daisies 

The  word  Chrysanthemum  has  been  derived  from  the  Greek 
chrysos,  gold,  and  anihemon,  flower. 

It  is  very  interesting  to  see  just  how  many  plants  are  reaUy 
Chrysanthemums.  The  wild  Ox-Eye  Daisy,  the  Shasta  Daisy,  the 
Pyrethrum  (from  which  insect  powder  is  made),  the  Feverfew  of  our 
grandmother's  garden,  the  Marguerite,  or  Paris  Daisy  of  the  florist, 
as  well  as  the  monster  decorative  blooms  of  the  expert  culturist  in- 
doors, are  all  Chrysanthemums. 

Some  of  the  Chrysanthemums,  or  'Mums,  as  the  gardener  affec- 
tionately calls  them,  are  annuals.  In  the  case  of  most  of  the  annual 
species  the  blooms  resemble  huge  Daisies.  They  are  white  or  some 
shade  of  yellow,  and  often,  as  in  the  case  of  Chrysanthemum  carina- 
tum,  they  have  a  maroon  or  red  ring  of  color  at  the  center.  The  an- 
nual types  can  be  sown  in  April,  in  the  open  ground,  where  they 
should  be  thinned  to  eight  inches,  or,  if  large  plants  are  wanted,  pinch 


CHRYSANTHEMUMS  AND  DAISIES 


113 


them  back  when  several  leaves  tall,  and  place  twelve  inches  apart. 
A  rich,  sandy  loam  suits  them  best  and  they  surely  love  the  sun. 

They  bloom  profusely  throughout  the  Summer  and  early  Fall. 
The  species  known  as  Golden  Feather  (Chrysanthemum  prsealtum  var. 
aureum)  should  be  sown  indoors  in  March  and  though  really  a  perennial, 
it  is  treated  as  a  annual 
It  is    used  as   a  yellow- 
leaved  border  plant. 

An  excellent  charac- 
teristic of  some  perennial 
Chrysanthemums  is  that 
theyreproduce  themselves 
so  nicely  by  the  produc- 
tion of  suckers  or  under- 
ground stems.  One  of  the 
species  which  multiphes 
itself  in  this  manner  is 
the  Feverfew  (Chrysan- 
themum Parthenium). 
It  is  a  very  old  plant, 
but  it  certainly  bears  an 
interesting  little  tufted 
white  and  yellow  flower 
in  clusters  which,  com- 
ing in  June,  is  well  worthy 
of  a  place  in  the  garden. 
It  self -sows  its  seed,  but 
rarely  becomes  a  nui- 
sance. 


A  Cluster  of  Hardy  Chrysanthemums 

Propagated  by  cuttings  or  by  division  of  the 

root,  and^also  of  great  interest  to  grow  from 

seed 


Two  white  Daisy- like  species  are  well  worth  cultivating.  The 
first  is  the  Shasta  Daisy  (Chrysanthemum  maximum),  a  gigantic 
white  field  Daisy  of  \ery  vigorous  growth  and  producing  flowers 
from  June  throughout  the  Summer,  They  have  very  good  keeping 
quahties  and  are  effective  in  the  border  or  as  a  cut  flower.  Another 
species,  a  shrubby  Daisy  (Chrysanthemum  nipponicum),  blooms  in 
the  Fall  and  produces  its  flowers  on  the  stems  from  the  old  shoots  of 
the  previous  year. 

The  class  known  as  the  Hardy  Chrysanthemums  and  which 
resemble  the  indoor  varieties,  are  of  two  types,  the  button-hke  varieties 
or  pompons,  and  the  Aster- hke  or  large-flowering  varieties.  Most  of 
the  varieties  are  hardy  if  protected  in  the  Winter  by  dry  leaves.  They 
enjoy  constant  cultivation  and  a  rich  soil  which  has  been  deeply  pre- 


114  GARDEN  GUIDE 

pared.  They  are  best  planted  in  the  Spring  and  advice  is  frequently 
given  that  all  old  plants  should  be  divided  up  and  reset  each  year, 
for  they  exhaust  the  soil.  Good  seed  is  now  available  of  this  type 
anH  they  may  be  grown  successfully  by  this  method. 

As  soon  as  the  plants  have  grown  four  inches  tall,  especially  if 
few  plants  are  available,  and  a  good  display  is  wished,  they  should  be 
pinched.  This  will  cause  them  to  branch  freely,  each  shoot  bearing 
a  number  of  buds.  From  the  very  start  in  growth  the  plants  must  be 
staked.  The  greatest  fault  with  this  group  is  that  they  all  fall  down 
near  blooming  time,  and  the  whole  beauty  of  the  plant  is  destroyed 
imless  carefully  staked.  The  shoots  can  easily  be  tied  to  stakes  if  the 
if  the  stakes  are  once  in  place.  If  the  very  largest  flowers  rather 
than  the  greatest  quantity  of  bloom  are  wanted,  feed  with  liquid 
manure  when  buds  begin  to  show,  and  remove  many  of  the  smaller 
buds  on  each  stem.  Chrysanthemum  blooms  will  be  much  better  if  a 
covering  is  placed  over  them  during  the  cold  Fall  rains  or  on  the 
nights  of  frosts. 


THE  DELPHINIUMS  •  Larkspurs 

The  charming  and  immensely  popular  Delphinium,  which  is  better 
known,  perhaps,  by  its  common  name,  Larkspur,  is  well  adapted  for 
beds  and  borders.  There  are  both  perennial  and  annual  sorts.  For 
variety  and  beauty  of  blossoms,  few  other  plants  can  equal  the  peren- 
nial Delphiniums,  especially  the  improved  English  or  hybrid  kinds. 
Growing  to  a  height  of  from  three  to  six  feet,  they  bear  on  their  erect 
stems  long,  graceful  spikes  of  magnificent  flowers,  ranging  in  color 
from  pure  white  through  all  shades  of  blue,  while  the  clean,  curiously 
cut  foliage  shows  off  to  advantage.  If  the  stems  are  cut  ofl"  close  to 
the  ground  when  the  flowers  begin  to  wither,  second  and  third  crops 
will  follow  and  the  season  of  blooming  is  thus  prolonged  until  late  Fall. 

Delphiniums  are  easily  cultivated.  They  succeed  best  in  deeply 
dug,  loamy  soil,  enriched  with  fine  manure,  but  any  well-fertilized  soil 
will  give  good  results  Seed  sown  in  the  hotbed  or  indoors  in  February 
will  produce  plants  which  should  begin  to  bloom  in  the  garden  about 
the  middle  of  June.  When  seed  is  sown  in  the  open  ground  flowers 
may  not  come  until  the  second  season.  As  soon  as  the  weather  is 
favorable  for  transplanting,  set  the  young  plants  from  two  to  two  and 
one-half  feet  apart  in  the  bed.  Apply  a  little  bonemeal  to  the  soil 
around  the  plants  during  the  Summer,  and  in  very  dry  weather  give 
them  a  copious  supply  of  water.  Dusting  the  crowns  with  coal  ashes 
before  Winter  sets  in  will  protect  them  from  insects.    Among  the 


DELPHINIUMS 


115 


good  varieties  are:  Belladonna,  turquoise  blue;  Ghinense,  gentian 
blue;  Formosum,  deep  blue  with  white  center;  Moerheimi,  pure  white. 
There  are  many  others  with  larger  flowers. 

The  annual  Larkspurs  bear  spikes  of  handsome  flowers  and  their 
fine  colors  are  strikingly  efl'ective  in  the  bed  or  shrubbery  border. 
They  grow  two  to  three  feet  high  and  in  a  sunny  situation  bloom  all 
Summer.     Seed  should  be  sown  in  the  open  ground  in  April. 


THE  GERANIUMS 

An  ideal  plant  for  pots  and  bedding,  the  Geranium  has  always 
been  a  great  favorite  in  both  house  and  garden,  and  well  deserves  its 
commanding  place  among  the  most  attractive  and  satisfactory  of 
old-fashioned  flowers.  In  every  section  of  the  country  it  is  popular 
as  a  bedding  plant  and  its  magnificent  trusses  of  single,  semi-double  or 
double  flowers,  surmounting  a  wealth  of  bright  green,  healthy  foliage, 
furnish  a  decorative  feature  which  never  fails  to  gain  the  highest 
admiration.  It  is  of  vigorous  habit  and  a  profuse  and  continuous 
bloomer,  the  colors  comprising  a  great  number  of  shades  and 
combinations,  with  pure  white, 
rose,  salmon  pink,  scarlet  and 
crimson  predominating  For 
many  years  the  Geranium  has 
periodicafly  gained  acquisi- 
tions of  wonderful  novelties 
from  both  European  and  Amer- 
ican introducers,  with  the  re- 
sult that  today  it  carries  a 
longer  list  of  varieties  than 
most  other  plants  in  cultiva- 
tion. Among  the  interesting 
and  beautiful  types  are  the 
Gactus-flowering,  the  Ivy- 
leaved,  the  scented-leaved  and 
those  bearing  variegated  fo- 
liage. 

Geraniums  may  be  propa- 
gated by  sowing  seeds  in  a  hot- 
bed, but  for  ordmary  garden 
purposes  the  method  of  raising 

plants  from  cuttings  is  gener-       T  he  Geranium  well  deserves  its  command- 
,,  ..  ,      n^^      V.     Z  X-  ing  place  among  the  most  satisfactory  of 

ally  preferred.     1  he  best  time  old-fashioned  flowers 


t, 

■;3__4fl||;: 

■;'i        i.l-  ^ 

WKMj^     '^  '^^H 

~  ' 

V"  ' 

^^H^_*T -^ 

% 

i'  '^ 

116  GARDEN  GUIDE 

to  take  cuttings  is  when  the  plants  have  ceased  flowering  and  they  may 
be  successfully  struck  in  a  propagating  house  or  a  frame,  using  pure 
loam  mixed  with  sand  and  lightly  pressed  into  small  pots  well  drained 
with  potsherds.  Side  shoots  which  have  not  flowered,  cut  close  to  the 
stem,  are  considered  the  best  cuttings.  They  should  not  be  placed  in 
the  pots  before  the  wound- has  dried  up.  When  the  pots  are  filled  give 
them  a  gentle  watering  and  keep  them  in  a  temperature  of  fifty  to  fifty- 
five  degrees.  Nipping  ofl"  the  top  buds  will  induce  symmetrical  and 
bushy  growth.  Another  way  to  increase  by  cuttings  is  to  place  the  cut- 
tings in  shallow  pans  and  then  give  them  the  usual  treatment.  In  the 
garden  bed  the  soil  should  be  thoroughly  pulverized  at  the  time  of  dig- 
ging and  mixed  with  wefl-rotted  manure.  Transplanting  may  be  done 
as  soon  as  the  weather  has  become  warm  and  settled.  Estabhshed 
plants  cut  down  in  the  Fall  are  transferred  to  pots  and  held  during  the 
Winter  in  a  temperature  of  about  forty-five  degrees. 

Among  the  best  varieties  are  S.  A.  Nutt,  scarlet;  Beaute  Poitevine, 
orange  rose;  Mrs.  Lawrence,  salmon  pink;  Mme.  Jauhn,  peach  pink; 
Mrs.  E.  G.  Hill,  orange  and  white;  La  Favorite,  dbl.  white;  Alphonse 
Ricard,  orange  scarlet;  Jean  Oberle,  soft  flesh  color  with  pink  center; 
Mme.  Buchner,  snow  white;  and  Dina  Scalarandis,  blush. 

THE  FOXGLOVE  •  Digitalis 

For  garden  and  shrubbery  borders  the  dignified  and  stately  Fox- 
glove has  always  been  a  great  favorite.  It  is  also  extensively  planted 
for  naturalizing  along  the  edges  of  woods  and  in  other  suitable  places, 
where  it  self -seeds  and  flourishes.  Rising  to  a  height  of  three  to  five 
feet  from  masses  of  broad,  dark  green  foliage,  the  robust  stalks  pro- 
duce long  spikes  of  beautiful  tubular  flowers,  which  give  a  highly 
ornamental  efl'ect  to  any  garden.  The  colors  are  bright  and  varied, 
most  of  the  strains  being  prettily  spotted  or  blotched.  Some  of  the 
newer  introductions  rival  Gloxinias  in  shadings  and  markings. 

The  Foxglove,  which  is  a  biennial,  does  well  in  any  good  garden 
soil,  and  prefers  shady  situations.  Sow  the  seed  outdoors  in  Spring 
and  transplant  the  seedlings  where  they  are  to  remain  permanently 
or  into  a  coldframe,  where  they  make  extra  strong  plants  for  a  second 
trajififer.    They  will  produce  their  flowers  the  next  season. 

THE  GLADIOLUS 

Here  we  have  a  regal  flower  stately  enough  for  the  finest  mansion, 
as  well  as  a  democratic  flower  charming  for  the  cottage  window  and  home 
garden.  Each  year  finds  new  uses  for  the  Gladiolus,  which  now  holds 
first  place  among  the  Sunamer  blooming  bulbs.    First,  because  of  the 


GLADIOLUS 


117 


great  range  of  color;  secondly,  because  of  wonderful  keeping  qualities, 
each  spike  keeping  over  a  week;  thirdly,  because  of  its  easy  culti- 
vation, primarily  the  same  as  that  for  Potatoes;  and,  fourthly,  by  the 
proper  choice  of  established  varieties  they  can  be  commended  because 
of  their  cheapness.  This  flower  is  extensively  utilized  for  all  kinds 
of  decorative  work.  Large  vases  or  baskets  of  the  stately  flower  spikes 
fill  a  place  quite  distinct  from  any  other 
flower.  As  a  garden  subject  the  Gladi- 
olus is  unexcelled  for  furnishing  a  long 
season  of  bloom,  extending  from  mid- 
July  until  frost,  either  in  a  bed,  m 
which  case  the  plants  should  be  very 
close,  or  in  clumps  in  the  herbaceous 
border. 

The  best  soil  for  the  Gladiolus  is  a 
medium  loam.  It  appreciates  good  fer- 
tility, but  seems  sensitive  to  any  manure 
in  contact  with  the  bulbs.  Manure  is 
good  if  applies  in  the  Autumn  previous 
to  planting.  The  best  fertilizer  for 
general  use  is  one  that  would  be  called 
a  Potato  fertilizer,  rich  in  potash  and 
phosphoric  acid,  both  chemicals  being 
useful  in  the  proper  formation  of  good 
bulbs.  Bonemeal  is  also  extensively 
used.  Liquid  manure,  when  the  buds 
are  forming,  seems  beneficial. 

Gladioli    are    not    hardy,    except 
some  varieties  of  Lemoinei,  and  even     There  should  be  given  space  in 
these  require^  protection  in  New  York     ^^^ry  garden  for  a  planting  of 
State.      Planting    should    be    deferred 

until  aU  danger  of  frost  is  past.  A  well-planned  succession  in  planting 
is  advisable.  The  depth  to  plant  is  determined  by  the  character  of 
the  soil.  In  the  lightest  soil  seven  or  eight  inches  is  not  too  deep, 
but  in  a  heavy  clay  four  or  five  inches  would  be  a  sufiicient  depth. 
There  are  two  reasons  why  the  bulbs  should  be  planted  as  deep  as 
the  character  of  the  soil  will  permit:  First,  the  Gladiolus  is  moisture- 
loving,  and  in  deep  planting  its  roots  are  in  the  cooler  moist  soil; 
secondly,  the  soil  acts  as  a  support,  no  other  support  for  the  stems  being 
necessary  ordinarily.  Conamerciafly,  the  bulbs,  or  as  they  are  more 
properly  called,  the  corms,  are  usuaUy  planted  in  rows,  often  two 
rows,  about  six  inches  apart,  in  the  furrow. 


118 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Upon  the  approach  of  frost  the  corms  are  dug,  but  the  stems  are 
not  removed.  They  are  then  stored  in  an  airy  placed  to  dry  thoroughly. 
After  several  weeks  the  last  year's  exhausted  cOrms  and  the  old  stems 
may  be  removed  and  the  stock  cleaned.  The  best  storage  temperature 
is  from  40  to  45  deg.,  and  in  a  rather  dry  atmosphere.  If  the  corms 
become  heated  they  start  prematurely ;  if  too  humid  they  rot  or  start 
into  growth.  A  shallow  tray  three  or  four  inches  deep  insures  the 
corms  against  heating. 

Propagation 

(1)  By  seeds.  By  this  method  new  varieties  are  obtained,  but  the 
standard  varieties,  being  hybrids,  do  not  come  true  when  started  from 
seed.  (2)  By  cormels,  or  "spawn"  (the  small,  hard-shelled  little  cormels 
borne  upon  the  old  ones).  These,  if  planted  (preferably  in  a  3-in.  flat) 
during  the  Spring  following  the  season  in  which  they  were  produced, 
will  bloom  one  or  two  years  later,  or  usually  one  year  sooner  than  from 
seed.  (3)  By  the  annual  renewal  of  corms  of  which  there  are  from  one 
to  six,  produced  above  the  old  corm  each  year. 

^^  THE  HIBISCUS  •  Marshmallow 

Blooming  in  August  and  September,  the  Hibiscus  is  one  of  the 
hardiest  of  garden  perennials  and  as  it  attains  almost  the  dimensions 

of  a  shrub  it  is  especially 
efl'ective  when  planted 
along  the  shrubbery  bor- 
ders. The  plants  are  very 
vigorous,  with  ample  fo- 
liage, and  produce  im- 
mense single  flowers,  rang- 
ing in  colors  from  pure 
white  with  deep  pink  eye 
to  bright  crimson.  They 
are  easily  raised  from 
seed  and  are  rapid  grow- 
ers and  free  bloomers. 

THE  IRIS 

Could  the  real    beauty 

of  the  coloring  of  the  Iris 

be    expressed     in    words, 

such  a   description  would 

be    a   masterpiece.     The 

,,        ,  ....  ^.    .  word  "Iris"  has  come  from 

Year  after  year  these  Irises  give  prodigal  retuma      +u      r^      i     f  •  u 

for  minimum  care  the    Greek    for     rambow. 


IRISES 


119 


Typical  German  Iris  Bloom 

8,  standard,    p,  pistil;    c.  crest  of  pistil;    st.  p, 

stigmatic  pocket;    st,  stamen;    f,  fall;    t,  tube; 

sp,  spathe  valve;      o,  ovary;      r,  reticulation; 

b,  beard. 


It  is  the  colors  of  the  rainbow  we  deal  with  in  growing  Iris.  When 
the  form  of  the  Iris  bloom  is  considered  we  realize  that  it 
is  most  dainty  and  elegant  and 
surpassed  by  few  other  flowers. 
The  fragrance  of  many  varie- 
ties is  so  dainty  that  it  vies 
with  that  of  any  Rose.  The 
adaptabihty  to  varying  con- 
ditions, such  as  excessive  mois- 
ture, continued  drought,  ex- 
tended freezing  and  almost 
perfect  baking,  is  remarkable. 
The  rapid  reproduction  of 
most  varieties  is  an  important 
point  in  its  favor.  Because  of 
all  of  these  favorable  attributes 
we  commend  the  various  forms 
of   this   incomparable   flower. 

We  shall  mention  only  the 
forms  of  easiest  growth.    They 

will  be  sufficient  until  one  realizes  the  true  range  of  excellence  which  is 
found  in  the  roll  of  its  one  hundred  and  forty  species;  then  you  will 
grow  Calif ornian  Iris  from  seed,  you  will  erect  frames  especially  for  the 
proper  drying  of  your  Oncocyclus  Iris  and  no  amount  of  labor  will  be  too 
much  if  the  new  variety  can  only  be  made  to  bloom  for  you.  That  is 
for  the  future. 

To  appreciate  the  Iris  one  should  have  a  Httle  idea  of  what  its  parts 
are.  The  flower  consists  normally  of  three  petals  which  stand  upright, 
and  three  which  droop  more  or  less;  these  are  well  named,  respectively, 
the  standards  and  the  falls.  Inside  of  the  standards  are  noticed  three 
petal-like  parts;  these  are  actually  lobes  of  the  pistil,  the  female  parts  of 
the  flower;  it  is  a  most  pecuhar  formation,  especiaUy  when  we  know 
that  the  httle  fringed  pocket  at  the  apex  of  each  is  really  the  stigma  or 
part  which  receives  the  pollen.  The  two-forked  tip  of  the  pistil  is  called 
the  crest.  Just  beneath  the  pistil  is  a  stamen,  the  male  part  of  the 
flower.  If  we  look  at  a  German  Iris  we  will  find  a  very  heavy  beard  on 
the  base  of  the  fall,  while  the  Japanese  and  Siberian  Irises  do  not  have 
this  tuft  of  hairs.  In  some  Irises  the  standards  are  very  small,  often 
smaUer  than  the  crests  of  the  pistil.  Many  times  the  standards, 
though  large,  do  not  stand  upright  at  all. 


120 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


There  is  a  notion  that  Irises  are  all  water  loving;  this  is  not  true. 
Two  Irises  only  can  be  planted  in  the  water;  these  are  the  common  Blue 
Flag  (Iris  versicolor),  our  little  wild  Iris,  and  the  yellow  European 
Iris  (Iris  pseudacorus) .  These  two  Irises  may  well  be  used  in  water 
gardens,  but  they  will  succeed  perfectly  in  ordinary  garden  soil.  The 
wild  Iris  is  hardly  as  beautiful  as  some  of  the  others  that  might  be 
grown,  but  the  yellow  European  Iris  has  luxuriant  foliage  and  large, 
clear  yellow  flowers,  and  deserves  wider  popularity. 


The  wonderful  Japanese  Iris  (I.  laevigata,  or  I.  Kaempferi),  colonized. 

While  enjoying  a  moist,  open  situation  this  Iris  does  well  in  a  variety 

of  soils  and  positions 


The  Japanese  Iris  (I.  Kaempferi)  and  the  Siberian  Iris  (I.  sibirica) 
thrive  very  nicely  at  the  edges  of  pools;  they  will  not  grow  with  their 
crowns  submerged,  however.  The  flower  of  the  Japanese  Iris  difl'ers 
from  the  others  in  being  flat,  the  standards  not  being  upright.  There 
are  several  forms  of  the  flower;  some  have  six  petals  and  others,  because 
the  standards  are  much  abbreviated,  are  called  three-petaled  Iris. 
The  flowers  are  very  large.  They  enjoy  good  fertility  and  a  constant 
stirring  of  the  soil,  which  should  never  bake  over  the  roots.    The 


IRISES 


121 


Japanese  Iris  likes  to  be  flooded  when  in  bloom,  but  at  no  other  time. 
They  bloom  later  than  the  other  sorts  and  varieties  can  be  selected 
which  bloom  from  mid- June  till  nearly  the  end  of  July. 

The  Siberian  Iris,  with  its  blue  or  white  flowers  and  grass-like 
foliage,  is  indeed  a  beautiful  garden  subject.  The  spikes  are  also 
effective  in  vase  arrangements.  The  white  variety,  Snow  Queen,  with 
its  golden  blotch  on  the  falls,  is  exceUent,  as  are  also  the  intense  blue 
orientalis  varieties.  Neither  the  Japanese  nor  the  Siberian  Iris  is 
insistent  upon  being  planted  in  moist  soil. 

Under  "Bulbs"  we  have  given  a  discussion  of  the  Spanish  and 
English  Irises. 


tv^ 

.    ^vm^.  'ili- /•:■    .'-• 

Iris  border  backed  with  shrubs  in  a  semi- wild  garden 

Perhaps  no  group  is  so  easily  grown,  requiring  as  little  care  as 
does  the  German  Iris  group.  They  are  very  hardy  and  stand  all 
sorts  of  adverse  conditions,  growing  in  the  parched  soil  under  the 
eaves  of  houses,  thriving  where  children  tramp  the  soil  to  the  hardness 
of  a  cement  pavement,  blooming  under  trees  choked  by  grass,  and 
stiU  give  flowers  as  pretty  as  an  orchid.  They  should  always  be 
planted  quite  on  the  surface  of  the  soil,  not  deeply,  and  are  best  placed 
in  bold  groups.  So  rapid  is  the  multiphcation  that  if  a  fine  variety  costs 
a  dollar  it  usually  produces  so  rapidly  that  the  same  plant  will  give 


122  GARDEN  GUIDE 

five  or  ten  dollars  worth  of  stock  for  another  year.  The  dwarf  varie- 
ties of  German  Iris  are  known  as  Pumila  Hybrids.  When  the  tall 
varieties  were  crossed  with  the  dwarf  varieties  an  intermediate  group 
resulted,  known  as  Intermediate  or  Interregna  varieties.  The  blooms 
are  large  and  most  exquisite  in  color.  The  range  of  colors  in  German 
Iris  is  extraordinary,  varying  from  pure  white  to  deepest  yellow,  purple 
and  violet  and  including  delicate  lavender,  blue  and  even  approaching 
pink.  The  Pumila  varieties  are  the  earliest  to  bloom  in  this  group, 
usually  in  early  May.  They  are  followed  by  the  Intermediate,  then 
last,  the  tall,  a  few  of  which  open  in  late  May  or  early  June. 

It  is  interesting  to  know  that  Iris  florentina,  the  old-fashioned 
sweet,  early-blooming,  pale  lavender-white  species,  is  the  orris-root 
of  commerce  and  believed  to  be  the  original  of  the  Fleur-de-lis,  or 
French  national  floral  emblem.  The  belles  of  ancient  Greece  grew 
it  both  for  flowers  and  root,  and  the  growing  of  this  root  is  a  leading 
industry  of  northern  Italy.  The  rhizomes  are  dug  in  the  Summer 
and  peeled  to  remove  the  outer  bark.  The  separate  joints  are  laid 
aside  to  dry  until  the  end  of  two  years,  when  they  will  have  acquired 
a  delicate  fragrance  of  Violets.  The  root  pieces,  which  have  a  white 
appearance,  are  brought  to  the  market  by  perfumers  who  powder  them 
for  dentifrices  or  sachet  powders,  or  when  distilled  with  water  form  the 
oil  of  orris,  the  basis  of  many  perfumes. 

Almost  all  Irises  like  sun.  The  best  fertilizers  for  them  are  wood- 
ashes  and  bonemeal.  The  German  Iris  likes  lime;  the  Japanese  Iris 
is  thought  not  to  like  a  calcium  soil.  Most  Irises  are  sensitive  to 
active  manure.  After  the  first  year  there  will  be  little  need  for  pro- 
tecting any  but  the  weakest  plants. 

They  are  best  transplanted  after  blooming,  when  the  leaves 
have  matured;  this  will  be  in  August  or  September,  not  much  later, 
for  roots  should  become  established  before  freezing.  The  Spring  is 
considered  a  poor  time  to  move  them.  When  Iris  clumps  begin  to 
choke  themselves  out  by  covering  the  ground  so  that  young  shoots 
have  difficulty  in  establishing  roots,  they  should  be  broken  up  and 
set  in  another  place.  Due  to  the  prolificacy  of  German  Iris  this  will 
be  necessary  every  third  year. 

LATHYRUS  •  Everlasting  Pea 

The  Lathyrus  latifolius,  or  Everlasting  Pea,  is  a  native  of  England, 
where  it  is  extremely  popular.  Considering  its  great  value  as  a  decora- 
tive climber,  it  is  not  as  extensively  cultivated  in  this  country  as  it 
should  be.  To  all  who  love  a  flower  garden  it  can  be  recommended  as 
a  most  desirable  plant.  It  is  very  hardy,  thrives  in  common  garden 
soil,  and  the  vigorous,  leafy  vines,  which  attain  a  height  of  six  to 
eight  feet,  rapidly  cover  the  trellis,  wall  or  stump  against  which  they 


LATHYRUS 


123 


may  be  growing.  Beginning  early  in  the  season,  the  plants  bloom 
all  Summer.  The  flowers,  resembling  Sweet  Peas,  are  freely  produced 
in  clusters,  the  colors  including  white,  bright  pink,  rose  and  crimson; 
they  are  very  showy  and  fine  for  cutting. 

Roots  can  be  bought  from  the  nurseryman  in  March  or  early  in 
April,  to  be  planted  inmiediately.  A  deep,  cool  soil,  that  is,  one  that 
does  not  dry  out  readily  in  Summer  nor  get  fiery  hot,  is  best  adapted. 
A  moderately  sheltered  or  slightly  shaded  place  is  recommended. 
Given  a  deep,  fertile,  moist,  but  not  water-logged  soil,  these  Ever- 
lasting Peas  will  flourish  year  in  and  year  out.  A  mulching  with  barn- 
yard manure  is  good  in  Summer  or  apphcations  of  weak  liquid 
manure.  Two  that  deserve  special  attention  are  the  Pearl,  white;  and 
rotundifohus,  with  carmine  flowers. 

THE  LILIES 

Everyone  who  has  a  pretty  garden,  some  time,  sooner  or  later, 
takes  up  the  growing  of  Lihes.  They  are  the  charm  of  the  border 
wherever  they  are  planted.  Success  with  Lilies  is  not  difficult  if  one 
confines  himself  to  a  few  sorts  which  he  can  grow.  Lihes  are  of  such 
diverse  requirements  that 
it  is  only  by  careful  prep- 
aration of  soils  and  in- 
dividual study  of  their 
needs  that  all  kinds  can  be 
grown  successfully  in  any 
one  location.  The  Tiger 
Lily  seems  to  grow  as 
easily  as  most  weeds  and 
is  not  even  choked  by 
them.  Other  Lilies  prefer 
good  soil,  usually  light  and 
enriched  heavily  with  peat 
and  leaf  mold.  Manure 
should  not  be  used  except 
as  a  mulch.  In  planting 
Lihes,  then,  it  seems  best 
to  either  add  the  needed 
sand,  peat  and  leaf  mold, 
or  to  actually  remove  the 
native  soil  to  a  depth  of 
two  and  a  half  feet.  A 
good  thick  layer  of  leaves 
or  leaf  mold  is  always  bene-  LlHum  auratum 

n    •    1  Air-    4-  1  u  One  of  the  largest  and  handsomest  of  all  the 

licial  as  a  Wmter  mulch  uues 


124  GARDEN  GUIDE 

unless  there  is  a  growing  ground  cover.  In  Spring  the  young  shoots  are 
frequently  injured  by  late  frosts  and  it  is  well  to  use  a  few  evergreen 
boughs  for  protection.  For  the  landscape  they  are  easily  combined 
with  shrubbery  or  the  herbaceous  border,  where  they  are  perfectly  at 
home.  The  wild  yellow  or  Canada,  the  Turk's  Cap  and  the  yellow 
speciosum  or  Henryi  succeed  admirably  in  beds  of  Rhododendrons; 
especially  when  the  Rhododendrons  do  not  crowd  them  too  much. 
The  Gold-banded  Lily  should  be  planted  among  shrubs  so  that  the 
roots  are  continually  shaded,  and  where  a  fair  degree  of  moisture  is 
maintained.  The  Coral  and  the  Thunbergian  Lily  are  excellent  planted 
among  ferns,  which  furnish  an  excellent  landscape  effect  besides.  The 
Madonna  grows  nicely  by  itself  and  is  most  useful  for  clumps  under 
pergolas  or  as  an  edging  for  walks. 

The  following  are  species  which  should  succeed  with  a  little  care 
in  many  gardens: 

Canada  Lily.     (See  Lilium  canadense.) 

GoLD-BANDED  LiLY.     (See  Lilium  auratum.) 

Handsome  Lily.     (See  Lilium  speciosum.) 

Lilium  aliratum  (Gold-banded  Lily).  White,  spotted  brownish  red  and 
with  a  yellow  band  on  each  petal;  three  to  twenty-five  flowers  on  each 
stalk;  flowers  often  a  foot  across;  July  to  August;  four  to  eight  feet. 
One  of  the  largest,  but  it  is  very  capricious  and  may  last  only  a  year  or 
two.  Does  well  in  Rhododendron  beds,  but  it  must  not  be  crowded. 
Plant  six  to  ten  inches  deep.  Mulch  with  very  well  decayed  manure. 
Likes  the  sandier  or  the  more  peaty  soils. 

Lilium  canadense  (Canada  Lily,  or  Wild  Yellow).  Light  orange,  spotted 
brown;  flowers  drooping;  July;  three  feet;  very  hardy.  Prefers  moist 
soil.    Will  thrive  under  garden  conditions.     Plant  three  inches  deep. 

Lilium  candidum  (Madonna  Lily).  White,  yellow  anthers;  June-July; 
four  feet;  hardy.  Thrives  well  in  ordinary  gardens.  Dislikes  being 
moved.  Transplant  in  August.  Leaf  growth  takes  place  in  Septem- 
ber. Excellent  garden  subject.  Superb  combined  with  Delphinium 
or  Aconitum.    Plant  four  inches  deep. 

Lilium  chalcedonicum  (Scarlet  Martagon  Lily).  Bright  red;  small; 
July;  three  feet.  One  of  the  best  small-flowered  Lilies.  Does  not 
flower  well  first  season  after  being  transplanted.  Do  not  transplant 
later  than  October.  Ordinary  garden  loam,  good  drainage.  Plant 
four  inches  deep. 

Lilium  elegans  (Thunbergian  Lily).  Red  and  orange;  erect;  May  to 
July;  only  a  foot  or  two  tall.  Likes  full  sunshine,  and  plant  as  deep 
as  six  to  eight  inches.  Thrives  in  garden  soil  but  prefers  peat,  light 
loam  and  leaf  mold.  Closely  resembles  L.  davuricum  and  L.  croceura, 
but  the  latter  is  taller. 

Lilium  Henryi  (Yellow  Speciosum,  or  Henry's  Lily).  Deep  salmon 
orange;  August  to  September;  six  to  twelve  feet;  very  vigorous;  ex- 
cellent for  border;  very  hardy.  Give  lots  of  water  at  blooming  time. 
Any  good  soil.    Plant  six  to  eight  inches  deep. 


LILIES  125 

LiLiUM  PHiLADELPHicuM  (Wood  Lily,  OF  Wild  Red  Lily).    Scarlet,  yellow 

center,  dotted  maroon;  erect  flowers;  July  to  August;  eighteen  inches; 

very  hardy;  sun  or  shade;  good  loam.    Best  specimens  found  in  wild; 

often  hard  to  cultivate.    Plant  three  inches  deep, 
LiLiuM  REGALE  (myriophyllum)  (Regal  Lily).    White,  slightly  suffused 

pink,  and  canary  yellow  at  center;  fragrant;  hardy  and  vigorous. 

Thrives  in  any  peaty  soil  when  it  becomes  acchmated. 
LiLiuM  sPECiosuM  (Haudsomc  Lily).    Pink,  white,  red  varieties,  spotted 

crimson;  petals  very  reflexed ;  rubrum  is  most  common  variety;  August; 

two  to  three  feet.    Does  well  in  either  sun  or  shade.    Likes  a  sandy 

loam  best,  deep  and  rich.    Succeeds  admirably  when  planted  among 

other  perennials  which  shade  the  soil. 
LiLiuM  suPERRUM  (Turk's  Cap).    Orange,  flushed  scarlet,  spotted  brown; 

ten  to  thirty  flowers  on  a  stem;  July  to  August;  six  to  eight  feet;  hardy. 

Good  for  border  if  soil  is  rather  rich  and  moist.    Excellent  among  low, 

shrubby  growth.    Plant  four  inches  deep. 
LiLiuM  TENUiFOLiuM  (Goral  Lily).    Deep  scarlet;  strong,  recurved;  six  to 

ten  flowers  on  stem;  leaves  fine;  June  to  July;  one  and  one-half  feet. 

Treat  as  a  garden  subject.    Give  partial  shade.    It  is  short-lived  and 

soon  dechnes  after  its  best  production  of  bloom.    Grows  readily  from 

seed.    Plant  three  inches  deep. 
LiLiuM  TRiGiNUM  (Tiger  Lily).    Orange  red,  spotted  purple;  large;  petals 

reflexed;  July  to  August;  six  feet;  very  hardy.     Thrives  in  any  soil; 

prefers  sandy  or  peaty  loam.     Plant  five  to  six  inches  deep.     Stake 

or  plant  against  wall  to  protect  against  winds. 
Madonna  Lily.     (See  Lilium  candidum.) 
Regal  Lily.  (See  Lilium  regale.) 

Scarlet  Martagon  Lily.    (See  Lilium  chalcedonicum.) 
Thunrergian  Lily,     (See  Lilium  elegans,) 
Tiger  Lily,     (See  Lilium  trgrinum.) 
Turk's  Cap,     (See  Lilium  superbum.) 
Wood    Lily.      (See   Lilium   philadelphicum.) 
Yellow   Spegiosum.    (See    Lilium  Henryi.) 

THE  MARIGOLD 

There  is  something  captivating  even  about  the  name  Marigold, 
and  all  the  plants  bear  yellow  or  golden  flowers.  Most  of  us,  after  all, 
love  the  gold. 

They  can  be  had  in  heights  from  cushion-like  dwarf  (Tagetes 
pumila)  of  the  French  type,  and  the  coarser,  taller  Scotch  Marigold  or 
Pot  Marigold,  to  the  three  and  one-half  foot  of  the  robust  African  ones. 
Like  the  Zinnias,  they  bloom  profusely  and  for  many  weeks.  They 
all  love  a  sunny  position  and  do  reasonably  well  in  light  soil,  albeit,  a 
fairly  fertile  one.  Seed  can  be  sown  in  May  where  the  plants  are  to 
grow,  or  seedlings  may  be  raised  in  hot  frames  in  boxes  to  be  trans- 
planted at  the  latter  end  of  April. 

THE  PANSY 

Favorites  with  all,  Pansies  are  rarely  omitted  from  the  flower  gar- 
den, be  it  large  or  small.    Everybody  loves  the  Pansy.    The  reason  is 


126 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


that  the  rich,  velvety  substance  and  brilliant  colors  of  the  flowers  make 
it  so  radiantly  beautiful  and  attractive.  Nothing  is  more  eff'ective  in 
Spring  and  Summer  than  a  design  or  bed  composed  of  a  good  selection 
of  Pansies  in  full  bloom;  the  dainty  flowers  also  make  charming  table 
decorations.  Hybridization  and  scientific  culture  have  produced  many 
wonderful  strains,  as  shown  in  the  lists  annually  presented  to  the  public 
by  the  various  seed  firms.  For  instance,  we  now  have  the  Giant  Trim- 
ardeau  Pansies,  the  Ruffled  Pansies,  the  Mottled  Pansies,  the  Rutterfly 
Pansies  and  a  hundred  and  one  other  sorts,  all  bearing  flowers  of  a  more 
or  less  gorgeous  character. 


Pansies  are  rarely  omitted  from  a  flower  garden,  be  it  large  or  small 


Pansy  seedlings  may  be  propagated  in  Spring  for  Summer  bloom- 
ing, or  in  the  Autumn  for  early  Spring  use.  Select  beds  sheltered 
from  cutting  winds,  with  the  soil  rich,  cool  and  moist,  but  well  drained. 
For  outdoor  bedding  in  the  early  Spring  sow  the  seed  in  August  in  drills, 
covering  one-sixteenth  to  one-eighth  inch  deep.  When  the  seedlings  are 
large  enough  to  handle,  thin  out  or  transplant  to  stand  eight  or  nine 
inches  apart.  Cultivate  and  keep  the  ground  free  from  weeds,  and  ap- 
ply water  freely  in  dry  weather.  Protect  the  young  plants  during  the 
Winter  with  straw  or  other  light  litter;  they  are  sometimes  carried  over 
in  coldframes.  In  extremely  hot  weather  temporary  shade  should  be 
provided,  as  the  rays  of  the  midday  sun  tend  to  injure  the  colors  of  the 
blooms. 


PETUNIAS 


127 


THE  PETUNIA 

This  most  pleasing 
annual  may  be  fittingly 
described  as  every- 
body's flower.  It  suc- 
ceeds everywhere,  even 
under  unfavorable  con- 
ditions, and  no  garden, 
however  small,  is  com- 
plete without  it.  Given 
a  sunny  location,  it  can 
always  be  depended 
upon  to  furnish  blooms 
in  abundance  from 
early  Smnmer  until  late 
Autumn.  It  grows 
twelve  to  eighteen 
inches  in  height,  pro- 
duces single  or  double 
flowers  of  many  ex- 
quisite shades  and  col- 
orings, and  makes  a 
grand  show  in  beds, 
borders,  window  boxes 
or  vases.  In  recent 
years  new  and  beau- 
ful  strains  have  been 
added  to  the  Petunia 

list,  the  blossoms  being  of  exceptionaUy  large  size  and  in  many  cases 
fmely  ruffled  or  fringed.  Seed  is  best  started  in  March  or  Aprfl  in  a 
hotbed  or  in  a  box  placed  in  a  sunny  window  of  the  house.  Set  out 
the  young  plants,  when  ready,  one  foot  apart  each  way.  The  weaker 
seedhngs  should  not  be  thrown  out,  as  they  often  bear  the  finest 
double  flowers.  In  sheltered  positions  the  Petunia  will  sometimes  seed 
itself  and  come  up  the  following  season. 

THE  PEONY 

Like  many  other  plants  intensely  interesting  because  of  their 
charming  blooms,  the  Peony  fu-st  came  to  the  attention  of  the  world 
as  a  medicinal  plant.  It  was  named  after  Paeon,  a  mythological  doc- 
tor, for  the  roots  of  the  species  officinaHs  have  been  used  in  the  making 
of  a  broth. 


Single  Petunias 
Petunias  succeed  everytvhere,  even  under  unfavor- 
able conditions,  and   no  garden  is  complete  with- 
out them 


128 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Peonies  are  easy  to  grow; 
they  are  permanent  and  when 
once  established  are  impatient 
of  being  moved.  They  are  per- 
fectly hardy  wherever  Apples 
can  be  grown  and  can  easily  be 
protected  in  the  colder  regions. 
They  bear  large  and  showy 
flowers,  of  a  great  range  of  col- 
ors; some  are  dehcately 
scented.  The  plants  are  so  free 
from  insects  that  they  prove 
themselves  to  be  ideal  for  cut 
blooms  or  landscape  flowers. 
There  are  a  number  of  in- 
teresting species  of  the  Peony. 
The  most  seen  is  the  Chinese 
Peony  (Paeonia  albiflora).  This 
is  the  standard  Peony  of  which 
we  have  so  many  matchless  va- 
rieties. The  plant  of  the  nar- 
row-leaved or  Fennel-leaved 
Peony  (P.  tenuifoha)  is  very 
beautiful,  but  the  blooms  last 
a  short  time.  It  blooms  in 
May,  the  pretty  scarlet  flowers  nestling  among  the  dainty  dissected 
foliage.  At  about  the  same  season  the  shrubby  or  hardy  tree  Peonies 
(P.  Moutan)  open  their  enormous  glossy  single  or  double  flowers. 
The  shrubby  Peony  grows  very  slowly.  It  should  be  planted  where  it 
is  sheltered  from  the  wind.  Closely  following  in  season  are  the  Euro- 
pean Peonies  (P.  officinahs).  These  are  the  old-fashioned  crimson  Pine ys 
of  the  garden;  they  produce  very  satiny-petaled  blooms,  which  possess 
a  not  unpleasant  soapy  odor. 

The  last  groups  to  bloom  are  the  albiflora  varieties.  These  often 
begin  to  bloom  in  New  York  State  for  Memorial  Day.  For  a  suc- 
cession of  varieties  to  bloom,  the  Rev.  C.  S.  Harrison,  who  might  be 
called  the  Chaplain  of  American  Gardeners,  recommends  the  varieties 
P.  umbellata  rosea,  I'Esperance,  Eduhs  Superba,  Monsieur  Dupont, 
Richardson's  Rubra  Superba,  Henry  Woodward,  Richardson's  Grandi- 
flora.  Mr.  Harrison,  speaking  further  of  prologing  the  blooming  of 
the  Peony,  says:  "There  is  also  a  system  by  which  the  blooming  of  a 
single  variety  can  be  prolonged.    Take  a  row,  say  of  Festiva  maxima ; 


Mons.  Jules  Elie 
Be  sure  to  include  this  one  in  your 
-V-  collection 


PEONIES 


129 


Peonies  are  glorious  in  a  massed  bed,  equally  striking 

when  brought  into  the  home,  with  their  long  stems 

and  massive  flowers 


wait  until  the  ground 
has  frozen  sohd ;  leave 
the  end  of  the  row 
uncovered.  Then, 
farther  on,  put  on 
mulching  and  in- 
crease the  depth  un- 
til, at  the  other  end, 
it  is  a  foot  to  eighteen 
inches  deep;  leave 
this  on.  The  cover- 
ing keeps  the  frost  in; 
then  the  plant  will 
take  some  time  to 
push  up  through  the 
mulching.  You  can  apply  this  system  to  the  later  varieties  and  so 
lengthen  the  flowering  season  considerably." 

A  word  may  be  necessary  to  explain  the  method  of  doubling  in  the 
Peony.  The  normal  or  single  flower  is  composed  of  petals  (we  shall 
call  all  the  petals,  guard  petals  in  this  case) ;  stamens,  or  the  male  part 
of  the  flower  (these  are  yellow  at  the  tip  and  bear  pollen) ;  and  the  pistil, 
each  section  of  which  we  call  a  carpel  (this  is  often  red  and  bears  the 
seed).  In  doubling,  the  stamens  become  wider  and  wider  until  they 
resemble  the  petals;  then  we  call  them  petaloids.  In  the  same  way  the 
seed-bearing  power  is  lost  by  the  female  parts,  changing  to  resemble 
petals  at  the  center  of  the  flower. 

The  following  are  the  types  recognized  by  the  American  Peony 
Society: 

1.  Single.  There  are  a  few  broad  petals,  the  center  being  filled  with 
stamens. 

2.  Anemone-flowered.  The  stamens  are  a  trifle  widened,  closely 
resembles  the  Japanese. 

3.  Japanese.  In  this  type  doubling  has  just  begun;  the  filaments 
of  the  stamens  have  widened;  the  anthers  are  also  much  developed. 
The  guard  petals,  the  petals  at  the  base  of  the  flower,  are  the  same  as 
in  the  single  varieties. 

4.  Bomb.  The  petaloids,  or  the  transformed  stamens,  have  be- 
come still  wider  and  thickly  set;  the  petals  approach  the  guards  in 
form,  but  are  still  distinguishable  from  each  other. 

5.  Semi-double.  Several  rows  of  large  petals  and  some  with 
petaloids  in  all  stages  of  transformation.    A  loose  bloom. 

6.  Crown.  When  the  carpels,  the  parts  of  the  pistil,  transform 
into  petals  they  may  form  a  diff'erent  center  from  the  guard  petals 


130  GARDEN  GUIDE 

and  petaloids,  giving  the  appearance  of  a  small  Rose  in  the  center 
of  the  flower. 

7.  Semi  rose, 

8.  Rose.  A  fully  double  form.  The  stamens  and  carpels  are 
both  transformed.  It  is  really  a  developed  Bomb,  for  in  this  case 
the  petaloids  are  merely  wider  and  indistinguishable  from  the  guard 
petals. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  best  varieties  for  home  grounds: 

Festiva  maxima.     White,  center  carmine;  Marie    Lemoine.      A    very    late    sulphur 

medium  early.  white. 
CouRONNE  d'Or.     a  late-blooming,  semi-  Modeste  Guerin.     Bright  rose  pink;  mid- 
double  white.  season. 
Monsieur  Jules  Elie.     An  early  silvery  Mme.    Ducel.          Silvery    pink,    flushed 

pink.  salmon;  vigorous  dwarf;  midseason. 

Grandiflora.     Late,  bright  flesh  pink.  Mme.  Verneville.     Rosy  white,  with  sul- 

DucHESSE  DE  Nemours.    Deep  pink,  early;  phur  white  guard  petals. 

a  fine  double.  Baroness  Schroder.     Flesh  changing  to 

Edulis  SUPERBA.    An  early  dark  pink.  white;  vigorous;  excellent. 

Felix  Crousse.      Midseason;   a   brilliant  Livingstone.     Fine  late  flower  of  silvery 

red.  pink. 

Jeanne   d'Arc.      Large,    soft    pink;    mid-  Monsieur    Dupont.      Ivory    white    with 

season.  lively  carmine  border  on  central  petals. 

Avalanche.      Milk    white,    with    creamy  La  Tulipe.     Semi-double;   almost  white; 

center.  mid-season. 

Eugene  Verdier.     Salmon   pink,  chang-  Delachie.     Dark  red;  semi-double;  mid- 

ing  to  clear  pink.  season. 

Planting  and  Cultivation 

The  soil  should  preferably  be  heavy  rather  than  light ;  a  clay  loam 
is  excellent  if  it  can  be  worked  deeply.  The  Peony  is  a  gross  feeder  and 
enjoys  a  good  mulch  of  well  rotted  manure  in  the  Winter.  The  time 
for  planting  is  August  or  September,  right  after  the  plant  has  com- 
pleted its  growth.  If  transferred  in  the  Spring  many  of  the  feeding 
roots  will  be  torn  from  the  plants.  The  roots  of  the  Peony  are  thick, 
almost  no  fibrous  roots  being  formed;  instead  very  fine,  delicate 
feeding  roots  start  from  the  main  roots. 

The  plants  should  be  planted  at  least  three  feet  apart  and  the 
crowns  should  be  buried  three  inches  below  the  surface,  and  if  planted 
too  deeply,  the  plants  will  not  flower  freely.  If  they  are  planted 
too  shallow  the  Winter  frosts  will  heave  them  from  the  soil.  The 
stalks  should  be  cut  ofl"  a  few  inches  above  the  soil  just  before  Winter. 
A  Winter  mulch  of  from  four  to  six  inches  of  well  decayed  manure  will 
also  prevent  heaving  and  Winter  inj  ury .  When  the  plants  have  finished 
blooming,  the  cultivation  must  not  be  neglected  since  they  must  make 
a  good  growth  and  mature  their  foliage,  else  the  crop  of  bloom  for  the 
next  year  will  sufl'er.  Every  five  years  the  Peony  should  be  divided 
and  replanted,  unless  the  plants  stand  far  enough  apart  to  allow  root 
development.  It  takes  two  or  three  years  for  a  commercial  three-  to 
five-eyed  root  to  throw  characteristic  blooms. 


PEONIES 


131 


Preserving  the  Blooms 

Preserve  the  blooms  after  bringing  into  the  house  by  stabbing  or 
slitting  the  stems  below  the  water  line. 

Disbudding 

The  albiflora  varieties  produce  many  buds  in  a  cluster;  if  the  best 
size  blooms  are  preferred,  all  but  the  main  or  crown  bud  should  be  re- 


Types  of  Peonie  s 

S. — Single,  showing  (g),  guard  petals;  (s),  stamens;  (c),  carpels  or 

lobes  of  pistil. 
J. — Japanese  type;  stamens  wider  than  in  Single. 
B. — Bomb  type.  The  stamens  become  narrow  petals,  called  peta- 

loids. 
SD. — Semi-double.  Many  petaloids  are  quite  wide  and  are  mixed 

among  the  stamens 
C. — Crown.     The  stamens  are  wider  and  petal-like.     The  carpels, 

which  before  have  remained  unchanged,  are  now  petal-like. 

R. — Rose.    In  this  type  there  is  an  entire  transformation  of  that 

bloom. 


moved  while  they  are  yet  small.    Some  weaker  growing  varieties  are  es- 
pecially benefited  by  this  practice.    Single  varieties  are  not  disbudded. 

Staking 

Certain  very  floriferous  varieties  will  need  some  sort  of  support. 
One  of  the  best  and  most  permanent  methods  is  to  build  a  rack  of  wood 
over  the  Peony  border  and  train  the  young  shoots  inside  of  this  rack. 
For  individual  plants  there  is  no  better  way  than  to  use  a  barrel  hoop 
supported  on  three  uprights 


132 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Rack  for  supporting  Peonies.      Also  used  as  a  Tomato  support 

Diseases 

There  are  several  diseases  which  attack  the  leaves,  buds  and  stems. 
They  are  easily  kept  in  check  by  spraying  with  Bordeaux  mixture 
when  the  plants  first  start  into  growth  in  the  Spring.  Besides  this,  the 
diseased  parts  and  all  stems  should  be  burned  each  Fall,  for  only  by 
careful  sanitation  can  the  trouble  be  lessened 


PHLOX 


^  Vf^« 


Phloxes  give  a  mass  of  color  and  a  fragrance  welcome 
in  every  garden 


There  are  Phlox- 
es and  Phloxes, 
dwarf  sorts,  and  tall 
sorts,  perennial 
kinds  and  annual 
kinds,  huge  flower- 
ing species  and  dain- 
ty, miniature-flow- 
ered species.  They 
are  all  beautiful. 

The  Perennial 
Phloxes  or  Hardy 
Phloxes,  with  their 
huge  heads  of  gor- 
geous bloom,  are  the 
most     commonly 


grown  and  give  a  mass  of  color  and  fragrance  welcome  in  every  garden. 
They  are  of  easy  culture  and  should  be  divided  every  three  years.  The 
superior  named  varieties  should  be  grown. 


PHLOX  133 

The  following  varieties  are  highly  recommended  by  C.  L.  Thayer, 
special  Phlox  investigator  at  Cornell  University: 

Asia.    Light  mallow  purple,  with  small  eye  Frau  Bosch  Bader.     White,  with  small 

of  amaranth  purple.  eye  of  near  rhodamine  purple. 

B.  CoMTE.    Vivid  aster  purple,  with  small  Hermine.     White  (io-j2  inches). 

eye  of  a  darker  shade.  Inspector    Elpel.       i  hulite    pmk,    with 


Baron  von  Dedem.     Near  begonia  rose. 


small  eye  near  rhodamine  purple. 


With  small  eye  of  near  rhodamine  purple.  Jeanne  i^  Arc^    White  (Late) 

r>                        \tru-^          ..u    T            '      ^    ,  Le  Mahdi.     Pansy  violet,  with  small  eye 

Bridesmaid.      White    with    large    eye    of  ^f  yj^jp^  purple 

rhodamine  purple.  Miss  Lingard.     White  with  faint  mark- 

Eclaireur.       Near  aster   purple,    halo   of  ings  at  center  of  mallow  pink. 

light  mallow  purple  and   small  eye  of  Miss  Cook.    White,  with  aster  purple  eye. 

aster  purple.  Mme.  Paul  Dutrie.     White,  lightly  suf- 

Elizabeth  Campbell.    Begonia  rose,  shad-  fused  with  deep  rose  pink,  with  small 

ing  lighter  toward  center  with  small  eye  eye  of  rhodamine  purple. 

of  rhodamine  purple.  Modesty.      Light    mallow    purple,    with 

F.  G.  VON  Lassburg.     White.  rhodamine  purple  eye. 

The  annual  Phlox,  Phlox  Drummondii,  are  more  dwarf  and  are 
found  in  more  excellent  colors  than  even  the  perennial  sorts.  Best 
success  is  attained  by  sowing  the  seeds  indoors  and  giving  them  a 
little  start  before  putting  them  in  the  open  border.  There  is  a  group 
with  fringed  petals  which  are  known  as  Star  Phlox,  or  Quedlinburg 
Phlox;  they  are  novel  but  less  attractive  than  the  type  sorts. 

For  the  rockery  and  front  of  the  borders  of  perennials  a  number  of 
species  is  very  useful.  Of  primary  consideration  is  the  Moss  Pink 
(P.  subulata)  and  its  varieties.  This  species  forms  huge  mats  of  color 
in  the  Springtime;  pink,  lavender,  bluish  and  white  sorts  are  obtain- 
able. Phlox  divaricata  is  the  wild  Sweet  Wilham  of  our  woods.  It  is 
most  attractive,  especially  the  varieties  derived  from  the  form  Laphami. 


THE  PINK  •  Dianthus 

The  hardy  Pinks  rank  with  the  time-honored  gems  of  the  old- 
fashioned  garden.  Splendidly  adapted  for  beds  and  borders,  they  de- 
serve a  place  in  every  garden,  not  only  on  account  of  their  great  beauty 
and  free-blooming  qualities,  but  also  for  their  usefulness  as  cut  flowers. 
Throughout  the  Summer  months  they  yield  a  profusion  of  single  and 
double  blooms  which  for  brilliancy  and  variety  of  contrasting  tints  are 
unsurpassed;  many  of  them  are  delightfully  fragrant.  They  grow 
about  a  foot  high,  and  there  is  nothing  that  shows  to  better  advantage 
in  bouquets  or  in  house  decorations.  The  varieties  classed  as  annuals 
include  the  well-known  China  Pink  (D.  chinensis),  the  Japan  Pink 
(D.  Heddewigii),  and  the  Diadem  Pink  (D.  diadematus);  while  among 
the  hardy  perennial  sorts  the  old-time  popular  Garden  Pink  (D.  plu- 


134 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


marius)  still  stands  out  as 
one  of  the  handsomest, 
and  an  excellent  subject 
for  massing  in  the  bed  and 
ornamenting  the  border. 
There  is  now  a  strain 
of  perpetual  blooming 
hardy  Pinks.  Inquiry 
should  be  made  for  these 
from  the  first-class  nur- 
series. The  best  annual 
varieties  with  double  flow- 
ers furnish  a  blaze  of 
color  throughout  the  Sum- 
mer. They  love  sunshine. 
Pinks  are  propagated 
and  cultivated  in  light  soil 
enriched  with  well-de- 
cayed stable  manure.  Seed 
may  be  sown  under  glass 
in  early  Spring,  or  directly 
in  the  garden  as  soon  as 
the  frost  has  gone.  Select 
a  sunny  situation. 
THE  POPPY  •  Papaver 
The  Poppy  should  be  given  a  place  in  every  garden,  it  is  so  graceful 
and  delicate  and  beautiful.  The  Shirley  Poppy  is  rightly  considered 
the  finest  of  the  annuals.  There  is  nothing  more  fairy-like  than  a  bed 
of  these  grand  single  Poppies,  with  their  long,  slender  stems  surmounted 
by  silken  blooms  of  the  most  charming  tints.  As  cut  flowers  in  the  house 
they  are  most  attractive  and  will  last  for  several  days  if  gathered  before 
expanding.  There  are  many  more  splendid  strains  of  annual  Poppies, 
notably  the  double  Peony-flowered,  the  fringed  varieties  and  the  dainty 
yellow-petaled  California. 

The  hardy  perennial  Oriental  Poppy,  with  its  gorgeous  dark  scarlet 
flowers,  blotched  black  at  the  base  of  each  petal,  makes  a  highly  pleasing 
show  about  the  beginning  of  June.  The  stately  Iceland  Poppy  (P. 
nudicaule),  also  a  hardy  perennial,  with  light  green,  fern-like  foliage, 
bears  a  wealth  of  brilliant  flowers  on  slim  stems.  These  Poppies  wiU 
bloom  the  first  year  from  seeds. 

Seeds  of  annuals  should  be  sown  early  in  the  Spring,  scattered  not 
too  thickly  and  covered  with  a  light  sprinkling  of  soil.  Thin  out  to 
five  or  six  inches  apart.    They  do  not  bear  transplanting.    When  sown 


Hardy  Pinks 
Splendidly  adapted  for  bed  and  borders 


POPPIES  135 

in  the  Spring  Oriental  Poppy  plants  die  down  in  July  and  August, 
bui;  reappear  in  the  Fall,  when  they  should  be  removed  to  their  per- 
manent quarters. 

SALVIA 

A  favorite  annual  for  bed  or  border  is  the  Flowering  Sage  (Salvia), 
which  is  remarkable  for  its  sturdy,  bushy  growth  and  freedom  of  bloom ; 
and  keeps  the  garden  bright  with  color  from  July  until  smitten  by  frost. ' 
The  best  of  the  Scarlet  Sages  are  S.  splendens  and  Bonfire.  Seeds  may  \ 
be  started  in  flats  or  hotbeds  and  the  seedlings  transplanted  when  the 
weather  becomes  warm  and  settled. 

SNAPDRAGONS  •  Antirrhinum 

It  IS  very  interesting  to  grow  amusing  looking  flowers;  the  Snap- 
dragon is  such,  for  each  flower  is  a  lion's  head;  one  must  merely  press' 
the  sides  of  the  head  and  the  mouth  opens.  Snapdragons  are  available 
in  such  a  variety  of  excellent  colors — yellow,  ornage,  red,  pink,  deep 
maroon,  lavender  and  white — that  they  are  adaptable  for  all  situations 
in  the  garden.  There  are  both  tails  and  dwarfs;  the  medium  height 
varieties  are  best. 

Snapdragons  are  of  easy  culture.  The  seed  is  best  sown  indoors 
in  March  or  April  and  the  seedhngs  transplanted.  When  about 
three  inches  tall  the  top  should  be  pinched  out;  this  causes  the  plant 
to  branch.  Subsequent  pinching  will  also  be  of  value.  If  the  Snap- 
dragon plant  seems  to  get  rather  sprawhng  upon  the  soil  give  it  a 
stake,  slender  and  inconspicuous.  Cut  the  spikes  freely,  it  will  en- 
courage others  to  grow. 

The  plants  may  be  troubled  with  aphis;  if  so,  spray  with  nicotine. 
See  chapter  on  Insect  Pests  for  formula. 

SWEET  PEAS 

The  poet  has  a  jingle  upon  Peas.    He  says: 

"  Peas  along  the  border,  Peas  upon  the  lawn, 

Peas  against  an  eastern  wall  to  welcome  in  the  dawn. 
Peas  among  the  Roses,  Peas  behind  the  Pinks; 
Peas  to  catch  the  western  glow  when  evening  sunlight  sinks. 
;  Peas  upheld  with  Chestnut,  Peas  held  up  with  Ash; 

Peas  asprawl  on  Hazel  spray,  Peas  on  Larchen  brash. 

Peas  on  stiff,  unyielding  wire,  Peas  tied  up  with  string; 

Peas  upon  the  trellis  work  where  Rambler  Roses  swing. 

Oh  !  merry,  merry,  merry,  are  the  gay  Sweet  Peas; 

Plant  them  when  and  how  you  will,  it's  certain  they  will  please." 

It  would  appear  from  the  foregoing  that  the  answer  to  the  question 
of  where  to  plant  Sweet  Peas  is  "Everywhere,"  but  the  fact  remains 
that  Sweet  Peas  to  give  a  measure  of  pleasure  require  much  care.  They 
should  be  planted  on  a  well  drained  soil  only,  or  one  in  which  the 
excessive  rains  of  Spring  will  not  cause  water  to  stand  around  the 
roots  and  start  mildew.    They  endure  httle  shade,  for  the  plants 


136 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


should  make  a  sturdy  growth. 
In  the  shade  the  growth  is  weak 
and  spindly  and  but  few  flowers 
are  produced. 

Place  Peas,  then,  in  the 
open,  giving  them  all  available 
hght  and  air,  although  a  Uttle 
shade  from  midday  suns  of  June 
and  July  is,  of  course,  beneficial. 
Hot  weather  causes  short  stems 
on  Peas  and  the  best  hay  and 
grain  weather  ends  them. 

Preparation    of   the   Soil 

This  is  an  important  point. 
Peas  hke  the  cool  soil  and 
attempt  to  strike  down 
deeply.  Dig  a  trench  two  or 
three  feet  deep,  break  up  and 
turn  over  the  subsoil.  Do  not 
use  if  for  top  soil  if  it  is  poor. 
Put  in  a  hberal  amount  of  stable 
manure  and  work  in  a  heavy 
dressing  of  bonemeal.  This  prep- 
aration should  be  made  in  the 
Fall  and  the  bed  left  all  Winter. 
When  working  over  in  the  Spring 
give  a  good,  hberal  coating  of  well  decayed  manure  or  some  fertihzer.  If 
the  soil  is  deficient  in  lime,  dust  the  surface  with  fresh  lime  in  Fall  or 
Winter,  using  it  as  soon  as  slaked.  As  early  as  the  ground  can  be  pre- 
pared in  the  Spring,  dig  a  trench  or  furrow  five  to  six  inches  deep 
and  six  inches  wide.  Sow  the  seed  on  the  bottom  and  cover  with  two 
inches  of  soil.  As  the  vines  gfow  up  fill  in  the  soil  until  level  with  the 
garden  surface.  Sweet  Pea  speciahsts  advise  using  a  hberal  quantity 
of  seed,  enough  to  make  sure  of  securing  a  good  stand,  and  when  well 
started,  thin  the  plants  out  to  two  to  five  inches  apart. 
Sweet  Peas  are  often  sown  in  double  rows  five  inches  apart  in  the 
trench,  with  trellis  or  other  support  placed  between. 

Sowing  Seeds  in  Pots 

In  order  to  gain  a  month  in  season  Sweet  Peas  may  be  sown  in 
three-inch  pots  in  February  and  placed  in  a  coldframe.  But  they  are 
generally  sown  a  month  before  wanted  for  outdoor  planting  and  a 
smaller  pot  is  used.    Four  seeds  are  sown  in  each  pot.    The  frame  should 


The  Sweet  Pea — perhaps  the  most  dainty 
of  all  flowering  annuals 


SWEET  PEAS 


137 


Roses  on  arches  and  Sweet  Peas  on  trellises  between.  On  either  side 
are  Rose  beds  in  the  lawn.     Iris  beds  in  the  foreground 


138  GARDEN  GUIDE 

be  thoroughly  cleaned  and  dusted  with  soot  or  lime.  They  can  stand 
quite  a  lot  of  cold,  but  do  not  have  them  wet  at  the  same  time.  Trans- 
plant outdoors  when  possible;  this  is  usually  about  mid-April.  Nor- 
mally, the  seed  should  be  sown  in  open  ground  as  early  as  March. 
As  soon  as  the  soil  is  warm  enough  the  seeds  will  germinate. 
Fall  Sowing 

For  the  Autunm  sowing  of  Sweet  Peas  a  piece  of  soil  should  be 
selected  which  will  warm  quickly  in  the  Spring.  Spade  it  up  to  good 
depth,  two  to  three  feet,  but  use  no  manure.  Make  a  trench  two  inches 
deep  and  sow  the  seed  thickly  and  cover  with  loose  soil.  When  the 
seedHngs  have  germinated  and  freezing  weather  has  begun,  cover  with 
four  inches  of  coarse  litter  or  straw,  which  must  be  removed  in  the  early 
Spring  after  heavy  frosts  are  past.  The  seed  should  be  sown  so  that 
the  shoots  are  just  at  surface  of  the  soil  when  Winter  sets  in;  therefore, 
sow  in  late  October  or  early  in  November,  according  to  latitude. 
Summer  Treatment 

Give  frequent  cultivation  and  when  the  plants  are  nicely  budded 
work  bonemeal  into  the  soil  along  the  rows.  If  conditions  are  very  hot 
and  dry  give  the  plants  frequent  syringings,  which  will  keep  down 
the  red  spider,  and  will  not  allow  aphis  a  chance  to  multiply. 

Staking 

Perhaps  no  method  is  so  successful  as  the  use  of  brush.  Stretch- 
ing string  from  pole  to  pole  is  an  easy  way.  Such  cord  can  be  easily 
removed  when  the  Peas  are  through  blooming.  Coarse  poultry  yard 
netting  is  rather  useful  for  supporting  the  vines,  but  has  two  objections: 
it  must  be  cleaned  each  year,  and  it  is  thought  to  become  heated  a 
Httle  too  much,  causing  the  Sweet  Pea  vmes  to  dry  prematurely. 
Gathering  the  Flowers 

The  flowers  should  be  kept  closely  picked  during  the  blossoming 
season,  as  the  vines  cease  to  bloom  when  the  seed  pods  are  allowed  to  set. 

SWEET  WILLIAM 

Old-time  gardens  always  provided  a  place  of  honor  for  the  well- 
known  Sweet  Wilham  (Dianthus  barbatus),  and  among  flower-lovers  of 
the  present  day  they  are  also  held  in  high  esteem.  They  are  easily 
grown  in  any  good  soil  and  their  trusses  of  bloom  of  bright  and  varied 
colors  produce  a  beautiful  effect.  The  Sweet  WiUiam  is  classed  as  a 
perennial,  but  better  results  are  obtained  when  it  is  treated  as  a  bien- 
nial.    It  flowers  the  second  year  from  seed. 

TRITOMA 

Among  hardy  perennial  plants  the  Tritoma,  with  Red-hot  Poker, 
Flame  Flower  and  Torch  Lily,  as  common  names,  occupies  a  prominent 


TRITOMA 


139 


place  in  the  Autumn  garden,  where  it  is  exceedingly  effective  grown 
in  single  clumps  or  mingled  with 
shrubbery.  It  throws  up  spikes, 
two  to  four  feet  long,  each  bearing 
a  compact  cluster  of  dazzhng 
scarlet  or  orange-red  flowers,  which 
present  a  most  unique  and  pic- 
turesque appearance.  The  plants 
are  very  sturdy  and  remain  in 
bloom  after  most  other  flowers 
have  faded  away.  Raised  from 
seed  sown  early  in  heat  they  may 
be  expected  to  bloom  the  first 
year,  but  if  immediate  results  are 
desired  the  purchase  of  strong 
roots  is  recommended.  The  variety 
Pfitzeri  is  especially  good.  Pro- 
tection in  Winter  is  essential  for 
the  roots  in  all  Northern  gardens. 


The  Tritoma 

t  throws  up  spikes  2  to  4  ft.  long  of 

dazzling  scarlet   or  orange  red 


TUBEROUS  BEGONIAS 

Gigantic  and  clear  colored 
flowers  of  wondrous  freshness  and 
beauty,  are  the  proper  words  to  describe  the  Tuberous  Begonia. 

Tubers  may  be  purchased  in  March  and  are  best  potted  in  a 
mixture  of  sand,  loam,  and  leaf  mold.  Plants  can  also  be  purchased 
from  the  florist.  Planting  in  the  open  ground  should  be  deferred  until 
all  danger  of  frost  is  past.  They  like  the  shade;  the  north  side  of  the 
house  is,  therefore,  ideal.  They  must  have  a  loose,  highly  enriched 
situation,  otherwise  they  will  not  be  at  their  best.  Planted  among 
Rhododendrons  in  the  leaf  mold  they  succeed  admirably.  Take  up  the 
tubers  in  the  Autumn  and  store  through  the  Winter  in  sand  or  a  sandy  soil. 

ZINNIA 

Familiarly  known  as  Youth  and  Old  Age,  the  Zinnia  stands  in  the 
front  rank  of  garden  favorites.  It  is,  in  fact,  an  indispensable  annual, 
and  never  fails  to  give  satisfactory  results.  Plants  are  readily  raised 
from  seed  sown  in  the  open  ground  early  in  Spring  and  make  a  luxuri- 
ant growth  in  beds  and  borders,  attaining  a  height  of  two  to  three  feet 
and  blooming  abundantly  and  continuously  the  entire  season.  The 
perfectly-shaped  double  flowers,  many  of  them  of  immense  size,  embrace 
a  wide  range  of  beautiful  colors.  Those  who  have  never  tried  the 
newer  orange  and  scarlet  varieties  do  not  know  what  acquisitions 
they  have  missed. 


140 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


CHAPTER  IX 


Bulbs  and  Tuberous-Rooted  Plants 

Notice  that  the  Federal  Horticultural  Board  at  Washington  has  prohibited 

the  importation  of  all  bulbs  except  these  six:  Lily,  Lily  of  the  Valley,  Narcissus^ 

Hyacinth,  Tulip  and  Crocus.     Lovers  of  bulbs  should  stock  up  at  once  as 

even  these  six  may  be  prohibited  before  long. 

Preparation  of  Beds — Time  of  Planting — Planting— Naturalizing 
— Culture    During    the    Season — Mulching    After     Planting- 
Descriptive  List  of  Bulbs  with  Cultural  Notes 

BULBS  are  not,  as  usually  thought  of,  seeds  or  roots,  but  nearly 
mature  plants  already  grown  when  we  buy  them;  many  of  them 
even  have  stored  in  them  the  food  for  the  leaves,  flowers  and  roots. 
All  we  need  to  do  is  to  place  them  under  some  favorable  conditions  for 
growth;  then  they  send  out  their  roots 
and  by  merely  absorbing  water  produce 
their  blooms.  They  are  useful  for  the 
woods,  the  lawn,  the  border,  the  water 
garden,  the  rockery  and  the  window  in 
Winter;  in  fact,  they  have  a  most  un- 
usual range  of  adaptability. 

Many  readers  will  never  try  a  single 
new  bulb  nor  even  read  about  any 
plant  which  is  strange  to  them.  They 
will  never  try  an  attractive  clump  of 
Eranthis  hyemalis,  the  Winter  Aconite, 
that  very  bright,  cheery  yellow  flower  of 
February  or  March;  nor  would  they 
know  of  the  striped  Scilla,  the  Pusch- 
kinia  hbanotica,  a  dainty  blue  and 
white  flower,  which  is  of  value  but  little 
known.  Our  suggestion  is  to  try  a  few 
of  the  bulbs  in  the  list  that  closes  this 
chapter.  They  have  been  chosen  be- 
cause they  are  really  good. 

Preparation  of  Beds  for  Bulbs 

Nearly  all  bulbs  succeed  especially 
well  on   the  sandier   loams,    but   will 

even  grow  on  nearly  pure  sand  or  heavy  clay.  The  heavy  clay  soils 
are  easily  loosened  by  the  addition  of  sand  or  coal  ashes.  Manure  if 
used  at  all  must  be  so  thoroughly  incorporated  with  the  soil  that  it  is 

141 


Narcissus  Glory  of  Leiden 

This  is  but  one  of  scores  of 
wonderful  varieties 


142 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


impossible  for  any  of  it  to  be  in  contact  with  the  roots  or  bulbs,  both 
of  which  appear  to  be  very  sensitive  to  manure.  Bonemeal,  spread 
over  the  soil  at  planting,  is  excellent.  Leaf  mold  is  ideal  for  mixing  with 
the  soil  if  it  is  obtainable. 

Time  of  Planting 

Some  bulbs  do  not  stand  the  cold;  they  are  planted  in  Spring  and 
must  be  dug  before  Winter  each  year.  Examples  of  such  bulbs  are: 
Gladiolus,  Summer  Hyacinth  (Galtonia  candicans),  Montbretia, 
Tigridia,  Tuberose,  Zephyranthes,  tuberous  Begonia,  Canna,  Dahha. 
Most  other  bulbs  should  be  planted  in  the  Autumn.    It  is  best  to  plant 


This  diagram  shows  approximately  how  deep  and  how  far  apart  to  plant  the 

different  kinds  of  hardy  bulbs  in  light  soil.    In  heavy  soil  plant  an  inch  to  an 

inch  and  a  half  nearer  the  surface 

them  as  soon  as  thfey  can  be  obtained  from  the  dealer.  If  they  remain 
out  of  the  soil  too  long  much  of  the  nourishment  is  evaporated.  Es- 
pecially susceptible  to  deterioration  due  to  deferred  planting  are 
Crocus,  Lilies,  Snowdrops  and  Fritillaria.  This  will  bring  the  greater 
share  of  bulb  planting  in  October. 

Planting  Bulbs 

The  rule  for  depth  of  planting  is  that  they  should  be  planted  twice 
their  diameter  deep  in  the  soil.  This  does  not  always  apply,  for  it  is 
usually  better  to  get  them  a  Uttle  deeper.  The  useful  chart  given  on 
this  page  shows  the  depth  to  plant.  It  is  advisable  in  planting  choice 
sorts  to  set  them  on  a  layer  of  one  or  two  inches  of  sand.  This  will 
insure  good  drainage  and  keep  bulbs  from  decaying. 


BULBOUS   PLANTS  143 

Naturalizing  Bulbs 

For  parks,  groves,  meadows  and  wild  outlying  grounds  beyond 
the  closely  clipped  lawn,  a  very  pleasing  style  of  naturalizing  bulbous 
plants  is  coming  much  in  vogue.  Such  bulbs  should  be  used  as  can  be 
planted  in  quantity,  twenty-five  to  a  hundred  or  more  of  a  kind  in  a 
patch,  and  only  sorts  should  be  used  as  are  hardy  and  will  flower  and 
thrive  and  increase  with  neglect;  fortunately,  in  bulbous  plants  there 
are  many  that  succeed  even  better  in  such  rough  places  than  in  the 
prim  garden;  among  them  we  will  mention  hardy  Anemones,  Crocus, 
Ghionodoxas,  Camassias,  Convallarias,  Daffodils,  Dicentras,  Ery- 
throniums,  Funkias,  Liliums,  Narcissi,  Scillas,  Snowdrops,  Trilliums, 
and  some  of  the  late-flowering  Tulips.  The  bulbs  may  be  dibbled  in 
when  the  ground  is  moist  and  soft  during  the  Fall  rains,  but  is  is  better 
to  cut  and  turn  back  the  sod  here  and  there,  place  the  bulbs  under  and 
press  the  sod  back  again. 

Culture  During  the  Season 
When  the  bulbs  are  in  bud  a  httle  liquid  manure  is  very  beneficial, 
resulting  in  a  larger  sized  bloom.    After  blooming,  the  leaves  must 
mature  if  the  bulbs  are  to  be  depended  upon  for  bloom  another  year. 
If  it  is  absolutely  necessary  to  remove  the  tops  before  they  are  brown 
the  bulbs  should  be  dug  and  heeled  in  or  replanted  in  an  out-of-the- 
way  spot.    They  can  remain  here  till  the  Fall  planting  time. 
Mulching  After  Planting 
When  cold  weather  has  set  in  and  there  is  a  crust  frozen  over  the 
bed,  a  mulch  of  leaves,  straw  or  like  material  should  be  used  to  the 
depth  of  three  or  four  inches.    It  serves  to  protect  from  the  destructive 
alternate  freezing  and  thawing.  (See  Chapter  XXI  for  discussion  of 
Winter  Protection.) 

Camassia  escxjlenta  (Indian  Quamash).  This  is  a  very  dainty  blue- 
flowering  bulb,  perfectly  hardy.  It  blooms  in  the  latter  part  of 
Spring  and  makes  a  good  border  subject.  Plant  the  bulbs  about  three 
inches  deep  where  they  may  have  abundant  moisture. 
CmoNODoxA  (Glory  of  the  Snow).  Species:  Luciliae,  light  blue,  white 
center;  sardensis,  dark  blue.  The  Ghionodoxas  are  very  closely 
allied  to  the  Scillas  and  might  easily  be  confused  with  them.  They 
are  early  flowering,  March  or  April,  and  are  very  effective  when  planted 
in  huge  clumps  in  the  border.  They  may  be  planted  quite  deeply — 
four  to  five  inches  is  not  too  deep.  Replant  every  third  year,  else 
they  run  out. 
Crocus.  Species:  vernus  and  susianus.  The  Crocus  is  as  universally 
admired  as  any  bulbous  plant  because  it  can  be  planted  in  great  pro- 
fusion without  much  expense.  The  varieties  are  so  bright  and  cheer- 
ful that  they  are  exceUent  planted  either  in  lawns,  in  the  herbaceous 
border  or  under  trees.  Especially  attractive  are  bold  clumps  of  one 
variety  near  evergreens.    Crocuses  must  be  planted  in  an  open  place 


144  GARDEN  GUIDE 

where  they  can  get  the  sun  in  order  to  have  them  flower.  New  bulbs 
are  produced  above  the  old  ones  each  year  and  the  plant  becomes 
higher  and  higher  in  the  soil;  they  should  thus  be  transplanted  every 
third  year.  Good  varieties  are:  King  of  Whites,  white;  Sir  Walter 
Scott,  white,  reticulated,  lavender ;  Albion,  purple ;  Cloth  of  Gold,  yellow. 

Crown  Imperial.    (See  Friiillaria  imperialis.) 

Eranthis  hyemalis  (Winter  Aconite).  This  yields  very  cheerful  yellow, 
star-shaped  flowers  and  is  very  hardy,  liking  best  to  be  planted  in 
partial  shade.  It  blooms  as  soon  as  the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground, 
whether  it  is  February  or  April.     Plant  the  small  bulbs  in  clumps. 

Eremurus  (The  King's  Spear).  Species:  rohuslus  and  himalaicus.  This 
is  a  very  stately  subject  for  the  garden.    The  spikes  are  frequently  six 


Even  the  small  backyard  gardens  can  have  a  delightful  display  of  choice 
Tulips,  Narcissi  and  other  bulbs.     Just  buy  them  and  plant  them 

to  eight  feet  tall  and  are  covered  with  white,  pink  or  yellowish  flowers, 
which  continue  to  open  for  nearly  a  month.  For  some  reason  they 
are  difficult  to  grow.  Certain  of  the  plants  rapidly  multiply  and 
bloom,  while  others  die  out  entirely.  The  bulbs  should  be  planted 
rather  shaUow,  in  a  fairly  rich  but  very  well  drained  soil.  These 
plants  are  native  to  desert  spots  of  Western  and  Central  Asia.  The 
matter  of  Winter  protection  is  important,  for  the  plants  should  be 
covered  with  leaves  during  the  Winter  and  left  till  quite  late,  other- 
wise the  young  shoots  wiU  often  be  injured.  The  roots  are  quite  fleshy 
and  spread  out  in  several  directions;  they  should  be  planted  as  soon 
as  received  in  November. 
Fritillaria  imperialis  (Crown  Imperial).  The  Crown  Imperial,  which 
was  such  a  familiar  feature  of  the  gardens  of  our  grandfathers'  time, 
has  been  very  much  neglected  of  late.  It  is  so  stately  that  this  is 
extremely  strange.    In  the  Spring,  when  the  bulbs  start  into  growth, 


BULBOUS  PLANT  145 

the  stem  elongates  very  rapidly  until  finally  it  is  surmounted  by  a 
crown  of  flowing  bells  and  a  tuft  of  leaves.  They  are  very  interesting 
as  seen  in  the  distance,  but  even  more  so  when  examined  carefully 
close  at  hand.  The  bulb  seems  very  susceptible  to  any  sort  of  injury 
and  should  not  be  kept  out  of  the  soil  for  any  length  of  time.  They 
should  be  planted  about  four  or  five  inches  deep  and  on  their  sides,  be- 
cause they  often  decay  easily.  The  bulbs  should  be  set  on  several  inches 
of  sand.  They  enjoy  a  rather  rich  soil  and  when  once  established  grow 
V  ery  easily.  If  the  flower  stem  is  a  trifle  weak  give  a  httle  staking  of  some 
sort.  Single  and  double,  orange,  scarlet  and  yellow  varieties  can  be  had. 
Grown  Imperials  are  often  called  Skunk  Lihes.  The  reason  is 
easily  guessed  but  the  fact  is  hardly  objectionable,  if  one  does  not 
get  too  close  to  the  plants. 

Galanthus  (Snowdrop).  Species:  nivalis  and  Elwesii.  Not  that  the 
Snowdrop  is  really  pretty,  but  because  it  is  the  first  flower  of  Spring 
to  bloom,  we  admire  the  little  white  inverted  beUs  as  they  peep  through 
the  snow.  We  plant  it  usually  in  huge  clumps,  for  the  individual 
flowers  or  plants  are  too  tiny  for  a  show.  The  clumps  increase 
rapidly.     Plant  in  difi'erent  exposures  for  succession  of  bloom. 

Galtonia  candicans  (Summer  Hyacinth) .  Here  is  a  bold,  stately,  bulbous 
plant  which  is  very  admirably  used  in  the  back  fine  of  a  border.  The 
tall  spikes  of  inverted  white  beUs  give  a  very  pleasing  effect,  and  seem 
to  contrast  most  exquisitely  with  many  of  the  medium  tall  growing 
perennials,  such  as  Monarda  and  Coreopsis,  or  with  annuals  such  as 
Bachelor's  Buttons  and  Snapdragons.  The  bulbs  are  not  strictly  hardy 
and  must  be  dug  each  Autumn  emd  planted  the  foUowing  Spring. 
Placing  the  bulbs  about  five  inches  deep  serves  to  give  the  tall  stems 
the  proper  support.  It  is  frequently  noted  that  the  bulbs  are  not  sure 
blooming,  year  after  year.  After  blooming  one  year  they  frequently 
rest  a  year  before  blooming  again.  It  is  perhaps  advisable  to  buy  a 
new  stock  each  year. 

Glory  of  the  Snow.     (See  Chionodoxa.) 

Grape  Hyacinth.    (See  Muscari.) 

Hyacinthus  orientalis  (Hyacinth).  For  garden  culture  many  persons 
feel  that  the  Hyacinth  is  a  trifle  stiff  and  formal,  but  there  is  a  group 
known  as  miniatm-es,  which  are  useful.  They  are  cheaper  and  graded 
from  the  larger  size  bulbs.  The  spikes  of  the  miniatures  are  graceful 
and  produce  a  very  pretty,  loosely  arranged  spike  of  bloom.  They  are 
adapted  to  informal  planting  in  the  border  and  are  useful  for  cutting. 
The  larger  varieties  are  known  as  Dutch  Hyacinths  and  are  adapted 
for  more  regular  and  formal  planting.  The  Hyacinth  appreciates  a 
lighter  soil  them  most  bulbs,  and  it  is  advised  to  set  the  bulbs  on  a  thin 
layer  of  sand.    They,  of  all  the  bulbs,  need  protection  in  Winter. 

Indian  Quamash.    (See  Camassia  esculenta.) 

Iris  xiphioides  and  xiphium  (EngHsh  and  Spanish  Iris).  Unlike  the 
German  and  Siberian,  this  class  of  Iris  is  bulbous.  The  bulbs  are 
cheap,  and  yet  so  few  of  this  class  of  Iris  are  planted  that  we  wish  to 
commend  this  excellent  group.  Plant  them  in  good,  friable,  well 
drained  soil  the  latter  part  of  September.  They  will  bloom  the  next 
Spring  in  May.  The  Spanish  Iris  will  start  into  growth  immediately 
upon  being  planted.  The  English  will  wait  till  Spring  before  sprouting. 
The  two  sorts  are  easily  distinguished.     The  English  have  wider  petals 


146 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


and  are  found  in  shades  of  blue  and  white 
only ;  the  Spanish  are  often  yellow  as  well  as 
blue,  white,  and  other  shades,  and  have 
comparatively  narrow  petals;  they  also 
bloom  two  weeks  earlier.  They  are  quite 
susceptible  to  a  certain  disease  and  to  lessen 
its  damage  it  is  advised  to  take  up  the  bulbs 
soon  after  their  leaves  have  died  down  to 
the  ground;  they  could  then  be  planted 
again  in  September. 

Lilies.    (See  Contents.) 

MuscAM  (Grape  Hyacinth),  Species:  botry- 
oides  and  plumosus  var.  monstrosum.  Here 
is  a  Httle  gem  for  the  garden.  The  blue  and 
white  miniature  bells,  when  seen  in  mass, 
are  most  attractive  either  in  the  border  or 
when  naturalized  in  grass  or  woodland. 
There  are  several  other  forms  which  are  in- 
tensely interesting,  especially  the  pliuned  or 
feathery  Grape  Hyacinth  (Muscari plumosum 
var.  monstrosum).     In  this  the  floral  parts 


Narcissus  poeticus,  naturalized 
Does  not  this  lovely  scene  stir  you  to  emulation? 


This  represents  a  typical 
flower  of  a  single  Daffodil 
often,  but  wrongly,  called 
Jonquil.  The      Jonquil 

much  more  resembles  the 
Paperwhite,  except  that 
it  is  yellow.  Daffodils  are 
a  large  study  in  themselves 


are  much  elongat- 
ed and  appear  very 
feathery.  It  grows 
only  six  or  eight 
inches  tall  and 
needs  to  be  plant- 
ed in  front  of  bor- 
der or  in  rockery. 

Narcissus.  There  are 
a  great  many 
types  and  species 
of  Narcissus.  So 
great  is  the  differ- 
ence of  opinion 
concerning  them, 
even  by  botanists, 
that  we  will  not 
try  to  present  any 
complete  outUne 
of  them,  except  to 
say  that  the  fol- 
lowing may  help 
to  classify  the  va- 
rious types: 
Long  Trumpet.  To 
this  class  belong 
all  varieties  with 
distinct  tubular 
centers  which  are 
as  long  as  the 
outer  parts  of  the 
flower.    There  are 


BULBOUS  PLANTS  147 

two  groups  of  the  long  trumpet  Narcissus;  the  self  colors  and  the 
bicolors;  besides  these  there  are  singles  and  doubles.  The  doubles 
are  termed  Daffodils. 

Doubles — Von  Sion,  properly  called  Telamonhis  plenus;  very  showy;  an 
old  variety;  the  flower  usually  referred  to  when  the  Daffodil  is  men- 
tioned. 

Pure  White — Albicans  odorata ;  perhaps  the  commonest  white;  the  flowers 
are  nodding.    Madame  de  Graaff,  largest;  late. 

Pure  Yellow — Ard  Righ;  early.  Golden  Spur;  also  early  and  is  a  sure 
bloomer.  Emperor;  exceUent  flower;  good  keeping  qualities.  Glory 
of  Leiden;  late;  very  fine;  large. 

Bicolors — Empress;  large,  fine,  rich  yellow  trumpet;  companion  in  season 
to  Emperor.  Victoria;  the  earliest  good,  lasting  one.  Horsfieldi; 
good  appearance  in  garden. 

Medium  Trumpet.  To  this  class  belong  all  varieties  with  distinct  tubular 
centers,  which  are  about  half  as  long  as  the  outer  parts  of  the  flower. 
When  the  flower  doubles  the  tubular  centers  are  really  present  but  are 
much  divided.  Some  of  the  principal  of  the  incomparabilis  and  Leedsii 
varieties  are:  Barrii  conspicuous,  light  vellow  bloom,  the  crown  being 
edged  orange  red ;  Sir  Watkin,  large,  bold,  free  flowering,  most  effective 
for  garden;  Autocrat,  very  pretilly  shaped  canary  yellow  bloom  which 
succeeds  nicely.  Mrs.  Langtry,  pale  creamy  yellow,  good  for  cutting. 
Duchess  of  Westminster,  a  yellow  and  white  flower,  large  and  beautiful. 

Short  Trumpet.  To  this  class  belong  all  varieties  in  which  the  tubular 
center  is  a  mere  cup  or  even  a  ruffle.  The  flowers  of  some  of  the  varie- 
ties belonging  to  this  group  are  borne  in  bunches  of  from  three  to  ten 
blooms.  They  are  called  Tazetta  or  Polyanthus  varieties.  They  are 
not  hardy  and  should  not  be  planted  out  of  doors.  Varieties  representa- 
tive of  this  group  are :  the  Chinese  Sacred  Lily,  the  Paperwhite  Narcis- 
sus (which  is  so  easily  grown  in  pots),  and  the  yeUow  Soleil  d'Or.  Va- 
rieties which  merely  have  a  frill  at  the  center  are  Poet's  Narcissus. 
They  are  very  adaptable  to  garden  culture  and  often  spread  very 
rapidly.  The  catalogues  term  them  poeticus  varieties.  They  should 
not  be  confused  with  the  Poetaz  varieties,  which  are  hybrids  between 
poeticus  and  Tazetta;  these  are  not  very  hardy.  A  third  class  are  the 
Jonquils.  Jonquils  have  very  slender  leaves;  the  flowers  are  either 
single  or  double,  yellow  and  very  fragrant;  two  to  six  flowers  are  borne 
on  each  stem ;  the  trumpet  is  a  little  longer  than  the  Tazetta  varieties. 
The  chief  variety  of  Jonquilla  is  rugulosus.  Jonquils  are  small  and 
not  hardy  unless  protected;  they  are  worthy  of  pot  culture. 

Cultivation. — Narcissus  is  one  of  the  most  persistent  bulbous 
plants  when  once  established.  It,  therefore,  lends  itself  admirably  to 
be  planted  by  the  thousands  in  grass  for  a  naturalistic  effect.  Its 
natural  method  of  rapidly  dividing  year  after  year  insures  its  spreading 
widely.  They  also  do  weU  in  beds  and  borders. 
SciLLAS,  or  Squills.  Species:  sibirica  (Siberian  Squill),  campanulata 
(Wood  Hyacinth),  and  bifolia.  The  Siberian  Squill  bears  an  intensely 
blue  flower  which  is  unexcelled  for  the  planting  of  entire  beds.  The 
bulbs  are  extremely  hardy,  the  beds  needing  almost  no  care.  The  Wood 
Hyacinths  are  white,  fight  pink  or  blue,  and  are  very  showy  used  as 
clumps  in  borders  or  woodland.  They  much  resemble  the  Hyacinth, 
except  that  the  blooms  are  much  more  sparsely  arranged. 
Snowdrop.     (See  Galanthus.) 


148 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Summer  Hyacinth.     (See  Galtonia  candicans.) 

Tulips.  The  finest  garden  subject  among  the  Dutch  bulbs  is,  in  the 
opinion  of  many,  the  Tulip.  It  is  so  hardy,  the  colors  are  both  dainty 
and  vivid,  the  form  is  exquisite,  and  the  ease  of  success  commends  it 
to  every  garden.  The  name  has  been  derived  from  the  Persian  toliban, 
or  turban,  which  the  flower  resembles.  There  are  a  number  of  forms  of 
Tulips,  all  of  which  are  interesting.  The  earliest  Tulips  are  of  the 
Due  Van  Thol  group  {Tulipa  siiaveolens).  The  stems  are  rather  short 
and  they  would  not  be  commended  for  garden  culture  except  for  the 
fact  that  they  are  very  early.     They  are  usually  characterized  by 

rather  pointed  or 
laterally  rolled 
petals.  The  mid- 
season  Tulips  oc- 
cupy most  of  the 
garden  interest. 
Hundreds  of  va- 
rieties are  pic- 
tured and  des- 
cribed in  the 
catalogues.  This 
main  group  is  of- 
ten termed  the 
Gesneriana  Tu- 
lips. It  includes 
the  peculiar  fring- 
ed petaled  group, 
known  as  the  Par- 
rot or  Dragon,  to- 
gether with  the 
Darwins  with 
their  subtle  colors 
and  long  stems,  as 
well  as  the  May- 
flowering  or  Cot- 
tage varieties, 
which  possess  the 
long  stems  of  the 
Darwins,  but  the 
blooms,  instead  of 
being  globular, 
are  more  or  less 
beU-shaped,  the 
tips  of  the  petals 
being  reflexed. 
With  exceUent  ef- 
fect we  have  seen 
the  exquisite  scarlet  Pride  of  Haarlem,  a  Darwin  variety,  gro>ying  in  a 
bed  of  blue  German  Iris  (pallida  dalmaiica).  When  the  Tulips  have 
finished  flowering  the  Iris  begins  and  the  color  scheme  is  entirely 
changed  in  a  few  week's  time. 
Water  Lilies.  {See  Contents.) 
Winter  Aconite.     (See  Eranthis  hyemalis.) 


Tulips — Bouton  d'Or 
The  most  handsome  of  the  long-stemmed  yellow  Tulips 


CHAPTER  X 

Hardy  Garden  Ferns  and  Water  Plants 

Fern     Culture — Spores — List    of    Ferns — Waterside     Plants — 
Water  Lilies 

NORTHERN  exposures  and  moist  places  always  suggest  Ferns. 
They  are  usually  somewhat  fragile  and  must  be  protected 
from  high  winds.  They  need  an  abundance  of  water,  but 
prefer  good  drainage.  Furthermore,  they  should  be  planted  where 
water  will  not  continually  drip  upon  them.  Under  trees  they  are 
especially  successful  where  they  take  care  of  themselves  nicely.  They 
should  be  transplanted  in  early  Spring  or  Fall^those  in  exposed  places 
better  in  Spring.  They  may  be  planted  in  clumps  of  all  of  one  species 
or  they  may  be  mixed.  Among  rocks,  on  a  slope,  is  a  very  good  place 
for  them.  They  vary  in  height  from  four  inches  to  four  feet.  Ferns 
possess  creeping  underground  stems;  some  are  deep,  others  are  merely 
surface  creeping;  a  few  have  thick,  upright  stems,  which  are  hard  to 
pull  up. 

The  soil  that  Ferns  will  like  varies  greatly.  The  best  method  of 
knowing  wha^  soil  they  need  is  to  note  where  they  grow  naturally. 
In  general,  most  ferns  like  a  deep,  rich,  not  too  heavy  soil — better 
with  little  peat  in  it.  In  their  native  habitat  they  have  few  or  no 
enemies,  but  in  the  garden  they  are  attacked  often  by  wood  lice, 
slugs,  snails,  caterpillars  and  the  grub  of  the  daddy  longlegs. 

The  Fern  spores  are  very  peculiar  for  they  are  produced  in  little 
sling  shots  which  are  so  small  as  to  appear  like  brown  spots  on  the 
lower  sides  of  the  leaves.  Some  persons  have  thought  their  Ferns 
unhealthy  v/hen  they  have  seen  these  brown  areas,  but  this  is  not  the 
case,  for  it  is  the  normal  procedure  to  produce  spores.  When  these 
sling  shots  ripen  they  burst  open  and  scatter  their  contents.  These 
spores,  shed  from  the  ripe  sporangia,  are  thinly  sprinkled  on  the  surface 
of  soil  contained  in  well-drained  pots,  which  are  covered  with  glass  and 
placed  in  saucers  filled  with  water.  The  spores,  instead  of  growing  into 
a  Fern  that  we  would  recognize,  produce  little  green  plants  like  a  heart- 
shaped  leaf,  usually  the  diameter  of  a  lead  pencil.  These  green  plants 
produce  spores  and  it  is  from  them  that  the  characteristic  Fern  grows. 
The  young  plants  should  be  pricked  out  into  pans  and  when  large 
enough  transplanted  to  three-inch  pots.  The  roots  in  time  fill  these 
pots  and  the  plants  are  then   ready  for  removal  to  more  permanent 

149 


150 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


S. — Unripe  spore  case  of  a  fern  (greatly  magnified) 
Sp. — The  spore  case  burst  and  throwing  its  spores 
-The  green  growth  that  comes  from  a  spore  and  which  give  rise  to  the  little  fern 

plant  (f) 


1. — Fern  plant  bearing  a  frond.    Each  division  of  the  frond  is  called  a   pinnule    (plural, 

pinnse)    (P.)    This  frond  is  covered  with  dot-like  masses  which  are  the  spore  cases  (Sp.) 

At  the  base  of  the  plant  is  a  young  frond  (c)  growing  from  the  root  stock  (R) 

2. — Pinnule  of  Dryopteris.     3. — Pinnse  of  Adiantum 

4. — In  certain  ferns  the  leaflets  or  pinnse  that  bear  spore  cases  are  much  changed,  as  for 

example  in  Osmunda  regalis,  the  Royal  Fern 


HARDY  FERNS  AND  WATER  PLANTS 


151 


quarters  in  larger  pots.  The  best  time  for  repot tiHg  Ferns  is  j  ust  before 
growth  starts  in  Spring.  If  the  crowns  are  numerous  they  can  be 
divided.  Care  must  be  taken  that  the  pots  are  well  drained  by  means 
of  broken  crocks.  There  are  many  kinds  of  Ferns.  We  name  the 
following: 

Adiantum  pedatum    (Maidenhair).      Prefers  a   well-drained,   light   soil- 

It  is  of  a  poor  color  when  grown  in  the  sun. 
AsPiDiUM.     (See  Dryopteris).  \"  r 

AsPLENiuM  ACROSTiCHOiDES.     Moisture  loving;  some  shade.     Endures 
sunlight  if  cool. 
ANGUSTiFOLiUM.     Avoid  the  removal  of  old  fronds.     New  crop  springs 
up  and  weakens  the  plant. 
AsPLENiuM   FiLix-FGEMiNA    (Lady  Fern).     Good,  rich  loam,    moist.  Ex- 
cellent, well  formed  fronds,  which  are  very  variable. 
piNNATiFmuM.    A  small  evergreen  fern  found  in  depth  of  glens.    Useful 
for  planting  between  stones. 

PLATYNEURON      (Ebouy 

Spleen  wort). 
Trichomanes.  a  rock 
garden  plant. 
Camptosorus  rhizoh- 
PYLLUS  (Walking 
Fern).  Prefers  dry 
ledges. 

Cheilanthes    lanosa. 

Prefers  deep  shade. 
tomentosa.    Prefers 

less      shade;      more 

moisture. 

Fendleri. 
Cystopteris  bulbifera. 

Plant  in  shade  upon 

a  moist  bank. 
FRAGiLis.     Fronds    die 

early  in  August. 
Dennst^dtia  {Dick- 

sonia)  punctilobula 

(Hay-scented   Fern). 

Heavy  growth.  Grow 

for  cutting  for  Sum- 
mer. 
Dryopteris    (Aspidium) 

BooTTii.    Does    not 

need   Winter   shade. 

CRIST  ATA,  var.  Glin- 

TONiANUM.    Swampy 

ground. 
FiLix-MAS  (Male  Fern). 

Rich  soil;  deep  shade.  Moisture  loving  plants  bordering  the  water 


152 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Flagstone     path     through     bog-garden     and     semi-wild 

garden.     Good  use  can  be  made  of  Gunneras,  Spiraeas , 

Japanese    Irises,    Knot-grass,    Giant    Reed    and    similar 

plants 


GoLDiEANA.  Cool,  rich 
soil.  Good  in  acid 
soil  or  leaf  mold. 
Large,  heavy 
growth. 
MARGiNALE.  When 
transplanted  in 
full  leaf  the 
plants  rarely  sur- 
vive. Like  a  rich, 
moist  soil  and 
deep  shade. 

NOVEBORACENSIS. 

Not  good  for  cut- 
ting.  Easily 
transplanted. 
SPINULOSA,  var.  in- 
termedia (Spin- 
ulose  Shield  Fern) 
Good  in  wet,  and 
under  trees  as 
well. 
Thelypteris.  Par- 
tial shade  in 
marshes. 

Lygodium  palmatum 
(The  Climbing 
Fern;  Hartford 
Fern) .  This  fern 
is  difficult  to  es- 
tablish. It  is 
moisture    loving. 

Onoclea  sensibilis 
(Sensitive  Fern). 
Wet  ditches  and 
rich,  moist  soil; 
partial  shade. 


Struthiopteris     (Ostrich  Fern).  Burns  in  full  sunshine. 
OsMUNDA    ciNNAMOMEA     (Ciuuamou     Fern).     Moist,    rich. 

Claytoniana     (Interrupted   Fern).     Move  while  dormant. 

REGALis.    Peaty;  branching;  edges  of  brooks. 
PoLYPODiuM   vuLGARE     (CommoTi  pofypody).     Can  be    planted  up   the 
ledges    of    gorges. 


WATERSIDE  PLANTS 

The  selection  of  plants  suitable  for  the  water  and  waterside 
is  a  large  one,  chief  among  the  first  named  being,  of  course,  the 
true  Water  Lilies  or  Nymphaeas,  while  the  Rice  Plant,  or  Zizania, 
the  Flowering  Rush,  or  Butomus,  also  various  of  the  Reed  Maces  or 
Typhas  can  be  used  with  success. 


HARDY  FERNS  AND  WATER  PLANTS  153 

Among  the  waterside  plants  (frequently  spoken  of  as  bog  plants) 
are  the  Globe  flowers  (Trollius),  the  stately  scarlet  Lobelia  in  several 
varieties,  a  selection  of  Loosestrifes,  particularly  the  one  called  Ly- 
simachia  clethroides,  and  the  gay  Monkey-flowers  (Mimulus),  in- 
cluding cardinalis  and  Lewis i.  The  beautiful  Moccasin  Flower,  called 
Cypripedium  spedabile  and  other  hardy  orchids  are  suitable  for  the 
drier  parts  of  the  ground.    The  list,  however,  could  be  greatly  enlarged. 


Water  Lilies 

A  Lily  pond  or  tank,  its  surface  covered  with  the  charming  flowers 
of  its  aquatic  plants,  is  regarded  as  an  indispensable  acquisition  in  any 
well  arranged  garden,  for  it  furnishes  a  decorative  effect  as  unique  as 
it  is  handsome.  The  culture  of  new  kinds  of  Water  Lilies  has  made 
great  progress  in  recent  years  and  there  are  now  to  be  had  a  large  num- 
ber of  varieties  which  produce  flowers  of  unusual  beauty,  ranging  in 
color  from  pure  white  to  red,  rose,  pink,  crimson  and  blue. 

Wilham  Tricker,  of  Arlington,  N.  J.,  who  specializes  in  Water 
Lilies,  says:  "These  are  universally  grown,  at  least  where  horticulture 
is  one  of  the  fine  arts.  They  are  indigenous  to  all  parts  of  the  world, 
but  in  no  part  can  all  species  and  varieties  be  grown  to  equal  such  as  is 
possible  in  our  own  clime.  Here,  in  a  well  appointed  garden,  or  in  our 
public  parks  and  gardens,  can  be  seen  our  own  native  species,  the 
European  and  the  many  hybrids,  the  Japan  and  Egyptian  Lotus,  the 
Mexican  species,  the  African,  Zanzibar  and  Australian  species  and 
hybrids  which  are  various  shades  of  blue,  also  specimens  from  tropical 
India,  where  the  flowers  open  at  night  shielded  from  the  burning  rays 
of  the  sun  and,  last  but  not  least,  the  giant  Victorias  from  South  Amer- 
ica, V.  regia  from  the  region  of  the  Amazon  and  V.  Trickeri  from 
Argentina,  the  tributaries  of  the  Parana  river. 

"Water  Lilies  are  as  indispensable  as  hardy  perennial  and  other 
decorative  plants.  Associated  with  ornamental  sub-tropical  plants 
they  lend  a  most  pleasing  and  charming  effect  to  the  landscape.  They 
are  also  valuable  as  cut  flowers,  especially  the  tender  varieties,  both 
day  and  night  bloomers.  The  day  bloomers  furnish  superb  flowers 
on  long  stems  in  red,  white  and  blue  colors.  The  night  blooming  va- 
rieties possess  a  charm  distinct  from  all  others,  the  colors  varying  from 
pure  white  to  pink  with  shades  of  red,  carmine  and  crimson,  which  are 
very  brilliant  under  artificial  fight.  They  are  of  simple  culture,  requir- 
ing a  moderately  rich  soil,  water  and  sunshine.  The  hardy  varieties 
should  be  planted  in  May  in  this  latitude,  and  on  until  the  middle  of 


154  GARDEN  GUIDE 

August.  The  tender  Water  Lilies  should  be  planted  about  the  first  of 
June,  when  warm,  settled  weather  is  assured.  Keep  the  pond  filled 
with  water  to  supply  loss  by  evaporation,  but  springs  and  running 
streams  must  be  avoided  as  they  lower  the  temperature  of  the  water 
to  a  dangerous  degree." 

Most  seed  houses  will  supply  plants  and  complete  cultural  direc- 
tions on  application. 


For  a  complete  work  on  the  subject  of  this  chapter, 
we  recommend 
THE  BOOK  OF  WATER  GARDENING,  by  Peter  Bisset.  Contains  all 
the  practical  information  7iece.ssary  to  the  selection,  grouping  and  successful 
cultivation  of  aquatic  and  other  plants  required  in  the  making  of  a  water 
garden  and  its  surroundings.  Illustrated.  200  pages.  7)^x10  in.  Price, 
$2.65,  postpaid. 

Secure  this  book  where  you  bowjht  your  Garden  Guide. 


Pond  with  Water  Lilies 

There  are  many  places  that  could  be  converted  into  pools  for  Water  Lilies, 
even  in  small  gardens.  The  pools  or  ponds  should  be  2  ft.  to  2i/^  ft.  deep.  The 
plants  can  be  placed  in  boxes  or  hampers  of  a  size  2x2x1  ft.,  or  a  system  of 
half-barrels  or  hogsheads  can  be  arranged  in  a  chain,  with  water  running  between 
each.  Sometimes  a  number  of  barrels  are  arranged  together,  either  sunk 
in  the  soil  or  grass,  or  arranged  a  little  above,  sufficiently  close  to  have  soil 
filled  between  them,  and  Papyrus,  Reeds,  and  other  plants  planted  therein 


CHAPTER  XI 

The  Rock  Garden 

Region  adapted  for  Rockeries — Japanese  Gardens — Construction 
of  Rock  Gardens — Material  for  Rock  Gardens 

THOSE  persons  who  like  imported  products  of  every  kind  will 
prefer  to  call  these  Alpine  Gardens.  There  are  so  many  parts 
of  the  United  States  where  rocks  abound  that  it  is  very  peculiar 
that  more  really  good  rock  gardens  are  not  to  be  seen. 

We  do  not  wish  to  advocate  the  establishment  of  a  garden  of 
this  sort  where  the  rocks  must  be  moved  a  great  distance.  We  feel 
that  such  a  feature  as  this  in  the  prairie  region  is  rather  incongruous; 
besides,  the  cost  is  prohibitive.  There  are,  however,  certain  regions 
which  are  well  adapted  for  informal  rockeries.  Central  Park,  at  the 
center  of  New  York  City,  has  wonderful  outcrops  of  granite,  in  which 
are  all  sorts  of  crevices  and  holes  for  plants.  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  has 
an  abundance  of  peculiarly  weathered  limestone  formations  which 
are  very  useful.  Each  vicinity  has  a  different  sort  of  native  rock 
formation,  so  that  the  type  of  planting  will  greatly  differ.  Rocks 
should  hardly  be  placed  for  a  defmite  display  of  themselves,  for  they 
should  be  the  background. 

We  have  only  to  visit  Japan  or  read  of  her  gardens;  they  are  rock 
gardens;  they  are  really  rock  landscapes.  In  them  we  find  that  rocks 
are  as  important  as  plants.  We  discover  their  arrangement  studied. 
We  hear  that  imperial  edicts  have  been  sent  out  from  time  to  time 
prohibiting  the  price  which  may  be  paid  for  rock.  It  seems  that 
during  one  of  the  dynasties  the  interest  in  foreign  rocks  was  so  great 
that  such  an  edict  was  necessary.  If  we  should  remark  to  the  Japan- 
ese gardener  that  a  collection  of  rocks  such  as  he  has  in  his  landscape 
is  mere  geology,  he  would  ask  us  what  difference  it  made  so  long  as 
the  whole  was  beautiful  and  meant  something.  He  would  continue 
to  say  that  our  own  American  gardens  do  not  have  any  real  significance. 
Few  of  the  Japanese  gardens  in  America  have  the  real  essential  featiures. 
The  American  wants  to  use  the  Japanese  material,  but  not  underst£ind- 
ing  the  Oriental  arrangement  he  prefers  an  arrangement  which  he  has 
imagined  is  the  real  way  the  Japanese  gardens  look.  For  one  who 
cannot  read  Japanese,  two  pages  of  a  Japanese  book  look  enough 
alike  to  be  equally  well  covered  with  interesting  characters.  So  with 
a  garden;  one  which  is  American  using  Japanese  plants  and  receptacles 
looks  superficially  like  the  real  Japanese  arrangement. 

155 


156 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


THE  ROCK  GARDEN  157 

We  have  digressed,  but  we  must  return  to  our  own  country  where 
the  conditions  are  really  quite  beneficial  for  rock  features.  An  ideal 
situation  is  one  where  the  plants  are  protected  with  snow  during  the 
Winter  and  not  subjected  to  extremely  hot  conditions  in  Summer. 
The  moist,  cool  rock  crevices  lend  themselves  most  admirably  to  this 
treatment. 

Construction 

The  amount  of  construction  necessary  will  vary  according  to  what 
is  at  hand  to  begin  with.  Let  us  suppose  that  we  have  a  rocky  bank 
which  may  even  be  a  sort  of  supporting  wall;  perhaps  we  have  a  small 
brook  whose  sides  we  would  like  to  plant,  or  we  may  have  to  construct 
the  garden  from  the  start. 

The  fu-st  case,  that  of  a  rocky  bank  or  wall,  is  the  simplest  to 
manage.  It  may  be  necessary  to  use  a  wedge  to  open  up  some  of  the 
cracks  so  that  they  become  larger;  these  should  be  filled  with  a  rather 
rich,  not  too  light,  soil  consisting  of  good  loam  and  one-fourth  manure. 
It  is  advisable  to  have  all  the  crevices  open  into  areas  of  soil.  This 
we  cannot  do  upon  natural  rock  banks.  With  these  natural  rock 
gardens  we  must  take  a  chance  as  to  the  depth  of  the  crack  and  soil. 

In  planting  a  brookside,  boulders  and  rocks  will  be  available 
usually.  The  problem  here  is  to  build  up  the  rocks  informally  and 
with  soil  between  them.  Many  an  innocent  Summer  brook  is  a  bad 
marauder  in  the  Spring.  Confine  your  efforts  to  the  areas  above  the 
flood  and  perhaps  sow  a  few  annuals  near  the  water.  Do  not  spend 
too  much  energy  arranging  the  rocks  nicely  in  the  basin  of  the  brook. 
The  w^ater  will  no  doubt  destroy  all  your  efforts. 

When  we  must  construct  an  entirely  new  rockery  the  problem  is 
greater.  It  should  run  nearly  north  and  south;  this  will  provide 
various  exposures  for  different  plants.  Above  all  things,  avoid  any 
cut  stone,  brick  or  anything  artificial.  Statuary  is  never  at  home  in 
a  rock  garden.  If  the  garden  must  be  made  from  flat  land  the  best 
thing  to  do  is  to  dig  out  a  little  valley,  running  it  very  irregularly. 
The  soil  removed  can  be  used  to  build  up  on  the  sides,  so  that  the 
httle  vale  appears  deeper  than  it  is.  Shrubs  can  be  planted  about 
the  mound  on  the  outside.  It  must  be  added  that  there  is  danger  in 
having  a  wet  hole  instead  of  a  beautiful  rock  garden  if  the  created 
valley  has  poor  drainage.  This  building  up  of  the  soil  must  be  done 
in  a  very  irregular  way  and  care  should  be  taken  that  the  top  soil  is 
saved  from  the  land  which  will  be  covered,  for  it  will  again  be  needed 
to  cover  the  subsoil  laid  bare. 

When  the  soil  has  been  removed  the  rocks  can  be  placed.  They 
should  never  be  arranged  in  correct  tiers,  nor  should  the  direction  of 


158 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


the  strata  in  the  rock  be  seriously  changed.  The  sketch  shows  the 
strata  of  the  rocks  naturally  arranged  and  provided  with  a  dip  which 
will  catch  the  moisture.  Leave  plenty  of  soil  space  between  the 
rocks  and  plan  little  pockets  to  catch  the  water.  Provide  drainage 
by  the  use  of  a  quantity  of  ashes  or  fine  gravel  in  the  center  of  the 
mound.  The  rocks  get  very  hot  and  some  plants  may  dry  readily. 
If  a  little  water  can  be  provided  it  should  be  conducted  to  the  top 
and  allowed  to  seep  down  through  the  crevices.  In  Winter  a  protec- 
tion of  straw  and  decayed  manure  over  the  plants  will  be  beneficial 
It  is  best  not  to  remove  this  protection  too  early.  Neglect  it  a  bit. 
Evergreen  branches  are  excellent  for  those  covering  plants  which  do 
not  die  down  each  year. 

Material  for  Rock  Garden 

The  rock  garden  is  essentially  a  wild  feature  and  a 
great  deal  of  native  material  should  be  used.    No  varie- 
gated or  freak  horticultural  varieties  should  be 
introduced.    Even  fancy  and  well  bred  varie- 
ties are  better  when  absent.     We  refer  to 
dressy  varieties  as  the  Mme.  Chereau  German 
Iris  or,  in  fact,  anything 
of  this  sort.    It  is  well  to 
grow  in  the  rockery  the 
interesting   little   plants 
which   need   special   at- 
tention to  be  seen  prop- 
erly. 

Bulbs  are  excellent. 
Snowdrops,  Narcissus, 
Scillas,  Fritillarias,  and 
Crocuses  are  all  quite 
necessary. 

Large  trees  should 
be  avoided  and  some 
trees  especially ;  for  example.  Hawthorns  and  Elms  require  much  water 
and  should  never  be  planted.  The  smaller  evergreens,  Junipers,  Arbor 
Vitaes,  broad-leaved  evergreens,  Yucca  and  Cacti  are  excellent. 

If  the  rock  area  is  extensive  and  a  very  quick  result  is  wished,  the 
use  of  annuals  is  excellent.  Dr.  Southwick  has  used  annuals  most 
effectively  in  his  "Garden  of  the  Heart"  in  Central  Park,  N.  Y.  The 
otherwise  objectionable  colors  of  Petunia  are  there  very  cheery. 
Lobelia  erinus  is  indispensable.  California  Poppies,  either  the  golden, 
the  crimson  or  the  white  ones,  are  very  pretty.    Baby's  Breath  ^Gyp- 


Diagram  to  show,  in  a  general  way,  the  placing 
of  the  boulders  or  large  stones  in  the  making  of 
rock  garden.  A  shelving  arrangement  is  adopted, 
leaving  spaces,  called  pockets,  between  the  stones. 
These  should  be  arranged  so  as  to  catch  the  rain. 
At  the  same  time  the  water  must  pass  readily  away 
through  drainage  channels 


THE  ROCK  GARDEN  159 

sophila  muralis,  the  pink,  or  elegans,  the  white)  adds  a  graceful  touch. 
The  ornamental  grasses  look  well  combined  in  various  places  with  the 
various  blooming  perennials.  The  annual  Larkspurs  and  Lupines 
are  both  good  blue  subjects.  Portulacas,  SanvitaUas,  Bouncing  Bet 
(Saponaria  ocymoides)  and  Nemophila  are  of  just  the  proper  habit 


This  picture  shows  a  closer,  more  intimate  view  of  a  rock  garden.     In  this  instance 

it  is  employed  most  fittingly  as  an  ornamental  feature  between  the  inner  flower 

garden  and  the  outer  semi-wild  parts 

for  the  rockery.  Speaking  of  rock  gardens  in  California,  even  as  far 
south  as  Los  Angeles,  a  writer  in  a  paper  there  says:  "These  rock 
gardens  are  positively  alluring,  for  if  one  but  follows  a  bank  having 
a  turn  in  direction  of  but  a  quarter  circle  he  may  find  at  one  end  the 
Edelweiss  of  the  European  Alps,  and  at  the  other,  through  gradual  tran- 
sitional plant  zones,  cacti  from  the  desert  sands.  Next  to  the  alpines 
is  often  brought  in  fern  dells  with  tricklmg  streams  and  waterfalls." 

(For  Perennials  useful  for  Rockery,  see  Contents.) 


Always  consult  Index  to  Contents.     Familiarize  yourself  with  it.     There 

are  hundreds  of  good  things  in  this  book  that  will  escape  your  attention  if 

you  do  not  use  the  Index  freely. 


CHAPTER  XII 

Garden   Furniture 

Benches — Rustic   Chairs,    Seats,    Screens,    Trellises,   Pergolas, 
etc. — The  Garden  House — Fountains — Bird  Baths 

A  GARDEN  of  any  size  should  not  be  without  a  garden  seat,  a 
bird  bath  and  similar  adjuncts.  Convenient  seats  and  appro- 
priate garden  accessories  should  be  a  great  joy.  Inappropriate 
and  mean-nothing  garden  features  should  always  be  avoided.  Pergolas 
which  lead  nowhere  nor  do  not  hold  up  vines  are  out  of  place.  Garden 
fences  which  are  too  fantastic  are  like  the  too  frequent  highly  ornate 
vases  used  in  our  homes  for  the  simplest  flowers.  Furthermore,  the 
style  of  the  house  and  the  manner  of  planting  will  largely  determine 
the  propriety  of  every  garden  seat,  bird  house  or  fence. 

Garden  Benches 

An  excellent,  substantial  garden  bench  may  be  constructed  quite 
cheaply.  A  working  drawing  for  such  a  bench  is  shown.  It  is  made 
entirely  of  three-inch  stuff,  and  can  be  either  longer  or  shorter  than  six 
feet.  It  has  been  thought  best  to  place  the  legs  one  foot  from  each  end 
of  the  bench,  unless  the  bench  is  shorter,  when  it  will  be  better  to  have 
them  six  inches  from  the  end.  Four  designs  are  here  found  for  the  ends. 
They  are  merely  suggestive;  others  may  be  used  just  as  well,  but  they 
should  be  simple  and  in  every  case  should  be  wide  at  top  and  bottom. 
Small  brackets  are  placed  under  the  top  on  each  side  of  the  legs.  They 
are  made  of  two-  or  three-inch  material,  being  three  inches  on  a  side. 
If  one  prefers,  three  long  screws  may  be  placed  through  the  top  of  the 
bench  into  the  standards.  In  order  to  give  the  legs  a  good  standard, 
they  are  faced  on  all  sides  at  the  base  with  a  strip  of  two  by  two  and 
one-half-inch  stuff.  The  bench  may  be  painted  white,  light  gray  or 
green. 

Rustic  Woodwork 

For  this  work  there  are  a  number  of  good  sorts  of  wood.  Some 
are  used  with  the  bark  and  other  wood  is  peeled  before  using.  Hickory, 
red  Cedar,  Cherry,  Blackthorn,  Birch,  Larch  and  Fir  are  used  with 
the  bark.  Such  wood  should  be  used  only  when  dry  and  is  best  cut  in 
the  Winter,  when  Httle  sap  is  flowing.    It  is  stored  to  dry  and  season. 

To  make  the  chair  (on  p.  163),  select  two  back  poles  which  have 
nearly  the  same  curve,  then  the  front  posts  which  are  nearly  straight. 
There  are  two  ways  the  parts  may  be  joined,  the  first  way  being  to  bore 
holes  in  both  of  the  uprights  and  crosspieces  and  fit  pegs  or  dowels  of 

160 


GARDEN   FURNITURE 


161 


■3 
C    -A 


,91 ^ 


162 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


ash  or  elm  into  them.    The  other  method  is  to  make  a  tenon  at  the 

end  of  the  one  piece  and  a  hole  to  receive  it  in  the  other.    This  latter 

method  is  not  as  strong  and  is  usually  harder  to  make.    In  both  cases 

the  parts  should  fit  very  tightly.     When  putting  together  finally, 

coat  all  joints  with  white  lead  thinned  with  boiled  linseed  oil.    It  is 

best  to  put  a  nail  or  screw  in  all  important  joints  and  wipe  off  the 

surface  white  lead  which  may  remain.     The 

seat  is  made  of  split  wood  beveled  at  ends 

to  fit  on  the  main  stays.     If  the  seat  does 

not  seem  perfectly  solid,  a  brace  or  two  can 

be  fitted  in  from  below  and  the  seat  nailed 

to    it.      Many    ingenious    garden    benches, 

screens,  treUises  and  pergolas  may  be  made 

in  this  way.     Care  must  be  taken  that  all 

such  furniture  or  bridges  are  perfectly  strong. 

Our  recollection  of  rustic  things  is  that  they 

are  frequently  out  of  repair.    All  sharp  twig 

stubs  must  be  removed  and  care  should  be 

exercised  to  keep  all  nails  from  sight  or  from 

doing  injury. 

Garden  House 

The  garden  house  offers  possibilities  for 
the  enjoyment  of  the  mistress  of  the  house  as 
well  as  furnishing  an  ideal  playhouse  for  the 
children.  Every  child  likes  a  playhouse.  He 
thinks  it  is  his  own  house.  It  is  well  to  place 
the  garden  house  in  the  shade  of  a  large  tree 
where  it  will  be  cool  afternoons.  It  should  be 
built  so  that  it  can  receive  air  from  all  sides. 

For  the  man  who  is  handy  with  tools  there  is  ample  scope  through 
the  Fall  and  Winter  for  the  exercise  of  his  talent  in  the  fabrication  of 
all  manner  of  garden  furniture.  If  one  possesses  a  comfortable  cellar, 
that  will  be  found  a  good  workroom  in  the  short  days,  the  material 
having  been  accumulated  prior  to  Winter  weather. 

Sun-Dial 

An  interesting  object  among  the  furnishings  of  a  formal  garden  is 
a  sun-dial  mounted  on  a  decorative  pedestal.  This  is  an  instrument 
that  measures  time  by  means  of  the  shadow  of  a  gnomon  or  style 
thrown  on  a  metal  dial  plate  upon  which  the  hour  lines  are  traced. 
Writing  of  the  sun-dial,  Charles  Lamb  remarks:  "It  was  the  primitive 
clock — the  horologe  of  the  first  world — and  stood  as  the  garden  god 
of  Christian  gardens." 


A     "step-ladder"     column 
supporting    a    dove    cote 
bearing    a     climbing 
plant 


and 


GARDEN  FURNITURE 


163 


Making  a  Rustic  Chair 

A,  side;  b,  back;  c,  front;  d,  seat; 
e,  method  of  holding  chair  together 
by  use  of  pegs,  filled  into  holes 
bored  into  corresponding  parts;  f, 
method  of  making  tenons  without 
boring    holes    for    insertion    of    pegs 


164 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Design  for  a  Rustic  Bridge 


A  Rustic  Arch 


T^ 


!^p-.™iTK^^ 


A  dainty  Trellis,  which  can  be  made  in  wrought  iron  or  wood 

This  design  we  reproduce  from  the  country  estate  catalogue  of  the  London  firm  of 

Wood  &  Son.     The  hurdles  are  6  ft.  long,  with  a  stay  to  each,  bolted  with  nuts,  and 

are  painted  any  color.     The  height  is  5  ft.  from  the  ground. 


GARDEN  FURNITURE 


165 


Trellised  Arches 

Another  of  Wood  &  Son's  designs.     These  can  be  made   in   wood 

or  wrought  iron.      The  arches  are  9  ft.  high,  composed  of  ornamental 

standards,  the  width  of  the  arches  being  6  ft. 


Fountains 

The  fountain  need  not  be  the  possession  of  the  large  estate  owner 
alone,  for  it  may  merely  be  an  inch  pipe  conducted  underground 
to  a  convenient  spot  where  a  pool  can  easily  be  constructed  of  coacrete. 

In  many  places  the  pool 
should  not  be  the  con- 
ventional circular  pool, 
but  the  border  should 
be  irregular  and  covered 
with  a  naturahstic  plant- 
ing. Fountains  may  be 
of  the  gurgly,  squirty  or 
spray  sort;  all  are  pretty. 
To  some  the  squirty 
sort  have  an  air  of  im- 
patience or  nervousness 
which  makes  them  only 
useful  at  some  distance 
from  the  garden  seat. 
On  the  other  hand,  cer- 
tain fountains  give  a 
restful,    cool   aspect    to 

the    garden,     which    is  -i^^-^^^gs^^'^^r--- 

greatly  enjoyed.     There  An  airy,  rustic  pavilion 


166 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


A  Bird  Bath 

in  the  garden  in  the  form  of 
a  basin  set  upon  a  stone 
pedestal  or  column.  Some 
dwarf,  neat  growing  water 
plants  may  be  kept  in  the 
basin,  such  as  Umbrella  Plant 
and  Parrot's  Feather.  A 
stone  in  the  bowl  affords  a 
place  for  the  birds  to  stand. 


seems  a  universal  enjoyment  of  water. 
Here  the  birds  come,  here  plants  may  be 
grown,  and  here  goldfish  may  be  kept, 
and  being  fed  at  a  certain  time  each  day 
will  become  tame  enough  to  take  the  food 
from  the  hand. 

By  one  or  all  of  these  various  ad- 
juncts, appurtenances,  garden  ornaments, 
garden  furniture,  the  beauty  and  comfort 
of  the  place  can  be  considerably  enhanced. 
The  making  of  many  of  these  things  will, 
like  the  garden  work  itself,  furnish  agree- 
able recreation  for  many  a  hoUday,  Satur- 
day afternoon  or  other  period  of  one's 
leisure. 


B 


Rustic  Seat 


Always  consult  Index  to  Contents.     Familiarize  yourself  with  it.     There 

are  hundreds  of  good  things  in  this  book  that  will  escape  your  attention 

if  you  do  not  use  the  Index  freely. 


CHAPTER  XIII 

Window  Boxes  and  Porch  Plants 

Self -Watering  Boxes — Porch  Boxes — Hanging  Baskets — Concrete 
Boxes — Wicker    Window    Boxes — Plants    for    Window    Boxes 

THERE  are  many  enthusiastic  gardeners  for  whom  the  force  of 
circmnstances  rules  that  the  window  or  porch  garden  is  their 
only  form  of  flower  growing  possibility.  To  others  the  porch 
decoration  has  much  to  do  with  the  whole  appearance  of  the  house. 
One  word  before  we  mention  the  kinds  of  plants  and  boxes  to  use. 
Many  persons  of  exceptionally  good  taste  in  their  home  and  garden 
seem  to  think  that  a  discarded  water  tank  ^  for  a  receptacle,  and  a 


A  gay  scene  at  Portland,  Oregon.     The  boxes  are  filled  chiefly  with  Petunias 


straggly  display  of  hideous  colors  are  the  requirements  for  a  porch 
garden  such  as  we  are  to  consider.  This  is  not  true.  The  container 
for  the  flowers  should  be  of  the  same  color  as  the  house,  or  else  of  a 
harmonious  shade.  The  plants  should  be  thickly  set  in  the  box  and, 
contrary  to  the  most  common  usage,  the  colors  should  be  an  excellent 
contrast  or  a  perfect  harmony. 

The  porch  box  should  rarely  be  deeper  than  nine  inches,  from 
nine  to  twelve  inches  wide,  and  of  any  length.  It  will  be  much  easier 
to  handle  a  box  not  longer  than  three  feet.    It  is  suggested,  therefore, 

167 


168 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


that  a  number  of  boxes  be  used  if  the  area  to  be  decorated  is  longer. 
The  boxes  should  always  be  made  rather  solidly.  Often  they  can  be 
bracketed  to  the  porch;  when  this  is  not  possible  some  simple  standard 
can  be  devised.  If  legs  are  placed  on  the  box  they  should  be  a  trifle 
wider  apart  at  the  floor.  Round  urns  or  hanging  baskets  are  prefer- 
able to  most  boxes  which  must  stand  on  the  porch. 

Self -Watering  Boxes 

Self-watering  boxes  made  of  iron  are  on  the  market.  There  is  a 
small  reservoir  for  water  at  the  base;  sponges  communicate  the  water 
to  the  soil.  The  boxes  need  watering  only  every  week  or  ten  days. 
They  cost  from  $1.50  to  $4,  according  to  their  size  and  amount  of 
ornament.  Care  must  be  taken  that  drainage  is  good  and  the  reservoirs 
are  not  filled  too  fufl  of  water. 

Porch   Boxes  or 
Hanging  Baskets 

Porch  boxes  or 
hanging  baskets  are 
easily  made.  White 
pine,  red  cedar  or 
cypress  are  the  best 
woods.  They  are  less 
injured  by  the  con- 
tinual moisture  re- 
quired in  a  box  of  this 
sort.  When  finished 
they  may  simply  be 
painted  to  match  the 
house  or  they  may  be 
covered  with  cedar  or 
other  bark.  They 
may  be  shghtly 
decorated  by  using 
crosspieces  of  fine 
twigs. 

Excellent  hanging 
baskets  are  made 
from  heavy  ox  muz- 
zles. Rend  the  muz- 
zle so  that  it  is  flat- 
ter and  more  basket- 
shaped,  attach  three 


(ii'tn    laUic-ework    against    a    white    house,    with    the 
Geraiiiuius  and   Scarlet   8age.     This   makes  all  the  dif- 
ference  between   elegance   and   bareness 


WINDOW  BOXES  AND  PORCH  PLANTS 


169 


wires  or  chains,  and 
the  hanging  basket 
is  ready  for  use  after 
hning  with  pieces  of 
moss  to  that  soil  may 
be  retained.  The 
same  type  of  wire 
basket  may  also  be 
purchased.  Special 
hangers  may  be 
bought  which  can  be 
attached  to  the  or- 
dinary flower  pot, 
converting  it  into  a 
hanging  basket.  They 
are  useful  for  speci- 
men Ferns  or  traihng 
plants. 

Concrete  Boxes 

Concrete  boxes  or 
urns  are  very  heavy 
but  are  good,  the 
main  difficulty  being 
that  very  simple  de- 
signs are  essential, 
otherwise  the  boxes 
appear  very  clumsy.  If  very  fine  sand  is  used  in  their  manufacture, 
or  when  given  a  fine  finish,  they  are  very  attractive. 

Wicker  Window  Boxes 

For  either  indoors  or  outside,  the  wicker  window  boxes  present  a 
good  appearance.  They  are  excellent  filled  with  Boston  Ferns  and 
cost  from  $3  to  $15,  according  to  height  and  length.  Excellent  long 
plant  baskets  are  now  offered  for  sale  by  all  florists  which  are  very 
handy  to  place  upon  the  window  sill.  For  the  indoor  window  garden 
receptacles  made  of  plaster  of  Paris  are  rather  pretty,  but  are  very 
easily  chipped  and  broken  and  are  not  to  be  advised. 

Excellent  boxes  are  made  up  entirely  of  Geraniums,  the  tall  va- 
rieties for  the  background  and  a  row  of  the  Ivy  Geraniums  for  the 
front.  Nothing  is  more  effective  than  a  box  composed  of  pink  and 
white  Geraniums,  never  pink  and  red.  Fuchsias  can  be  used  likewise 
in  combinations  of  several  varieties. 


Concrete  window  box  as  an  integral  part  of  the 
building ;  in  this  case  a  garage 


170 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Plants  for  Window  Boxes 


For  Shady  Situations 
Tuberous  Begonias 
Begonia  semperflorens 
Fuchsias 
Cobaea  scandens 
Vinca 

Foliage  Geraniums 
Crotons 

Funkia  variegata 
Ferns 
Palms 
English  Ivy 
Trailing  Euonymus 
Wandering  Jew 


For  Winter  Effect 
Box  (Buxus) 
Dwarf  Thuya 
Dwarf  Retinispora 
Irish  Juniper 
Hemlock,  small  plants 
White  Pine,  small  plants 
English  Ivy 
Trailing  Euonymus 

For  Sunny  Situations 
Geraniums,  tall 
Ivy  Geranium 
Petunia 
Ageratum  Houstonianum 


For  Sunny  Situations 
Cobaea  scandens 
Phlox  Drummondii 
Nasturtiums 
Verbena 
Lobelia  erinus 
Coleus 
Lantana 

Cigar  Plants  (Cuphea) 
German  Ivy,  or  Wandering 

Jew 
Portulaca 

Mesembryanthemum 
Sweet  Alyssum 


Entrance  porch  and  window  box.    Ampelopsis  Veitchii  is  well  and  freely  used 


Dracaena  indivisa  is  always  useful  in  the  porch  box.  When  its 
usefulness  in  the  box  is  over  it  may  be  potted  and  kept  all  Winter. 

The  excellent  clear  colors  of  Verbenas  are  always  admirable  when 
used  alone  or  in  combination.  They  flower  profusely  and  continue 
fresh  in  appearance. 

The  Nasturtium  is  incomparable  for  filling  urns  or  for  porch 
decoration.  For  a  northern  exposure  the  tuberous  Begonia  is  excellent. 
The  colors  of  the  single  as  well  as  the  double  varieties  are  very  effec- 
tive.   They  should  always  have  the  best  soil  available. 


WINDOW  BOXES  AND  PORCH  PLANTS  171 

The  best  vine  for  trailing  over  the  edge  and  extending  downward 
for  five  or  six  feet  is  the  German  Ivy.  If  this  has  grown  into  quite  a 
jungle  when  procured  from  the  florist,  cut  it  back  and  let  it  start  out 
gracefully.  Vinca,  or  Periwinkle,  a  variegated  green  and  white  vine 
of  exceeding  long  growth,  is  everybody's  favorite.  It  stands  adverse 
conditions.  Cobaea  scandens  will  trail  down  or  chmb  up.  Creeping 
Jenny  (Lysimachia  Nummularia)  succeeds  admirably  in  shade  and, 


Nothing  better  bespeaks  home  joys,  grace  and  comforts  than  a  well-filled 

window  box 


furthermore,  in  some  sections  of  the  country  it  can  be  gathered  from 
the  wild.  Kenilworth  Ivy  (Linaria  Cymbalaria),  a  neat,  nearly  hardy, 
lavender-flowered  trailer,  can  be  tried,  also  Asparagus  Sprengeri,  a 
plant  popular  with  the  florist  and  very  useful  in  the  window  box. 

Trailing  plants  of  less  rampant  growth  include:  Lobelia  erinus 
(not  the  compacta  variety) ;  the  flowering  habit  is  unexcelled.  Another 
blue  is  the  Ageratum,  which,  like  Lobelia,  is  always  in  bloom,  and 
it  is  fragrant.  The  trailing  varieties  of  Coleus  have  a  good  habit, 
but  the  colors  are  much  mixed.  Verbenas  and  Petunias  are  useful 
by  themselves  as  well  as  the  front  margin  of  the  box. 


172 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


A  little  plant  useful  for  the  more  personal  porch  boxes  is- the 
Forget-me-not.  It  is  not  very  permanent  but  will  bloom  when  many 
of  the  other  plants  have  only  started  growth.  When  it  finishes  bloom- 
ing it  may  be  dug  up.  The  remaining  plants  will,  no  doubt,  keep  up 
the  fohage  and  flower  effect. 


Paneled  window  box  showing  bracket  sup- 
ports, also  side  brackets  above,  for  plants 

For  the  green  and  more  formal  window  box,  plants  of  Aucubas 
can  be  procured  from  the  florist.  In  Winter  the  plants  are  useful  on 
enclosed  porches. 


Self-watering  window  box 

This  shows  body  of  box,  false  bottom.     (B)  Above  water  chamber  or  reservoir,  (W) 

and  two  sponges   (S)  by  which    the    water    passes  up  to  the  soil.     The  water  supply 

is  replenished  through  a  tube  in  the  right-hand  back  corner  (T) 


All  boxes  should  be  raised  a  little  above  the  base  or  sill  on  which 
they  rest,  otherwise  both  box  and  sill  quickly  rot.  The  self -watering 
type  prevents  dripping,  but  even  they  require  attention  on  hot  days, 
especially  when  in  sunny  positions. 


CHAPTER   XIV 


The  Vegetable  Garden 

Growing  Plants  for  Setting  Out — Digging  and  Preparing  the  Soil 
— Sowing  and  Transplanting — Watering — General  Principles  of 
Cultivation — Harvesting  and  Storing — Companion  Crops — Suc- 
cession Crops — Cultivation  of  the  Chief  Vegetables — Useful 
Pointers  for  the  Vegetable  Grower — Labeling  Plants 

[It  will  be    noted  that  we  have   not    mentioned    varieties    throughout  this 

chapter.      These  are  chosen  from  the  catalogs  of  your  favorite  seedsmen  to 

suit  soil,  location  and  individual  preferences.! 

WHEN  the  Spring  comes  everybody  thinks,  or  ought  to  think, 
about  gardens.  Professor  L.  H.  Bailey  says:  "The  nature- 
desire  may  be  perpetual  and  constant,  but  the  garden-desire 
returns  with  every  new  Springtime."  The  possibilities  of  the  garden 
are  very  great,  and  the  home  or  kitchen  garden  has  become  a  national 
and  economic  necessity  as  an  adjunct  to  every  home  with  a  plot  of 
round,  no  matter  how  small.  A  bountiful  provision  of  clean,  newly 
gathered  produce,  secured  within  a  few  yards  of  the  kitchen  door, 
tends  to  diminish  burdensome  grocery  and  meat  bills;  and  as  they  are 
not  subject  to  deterioration  in  transportation  and  by  exposure  on  the 
markets,  home-grown  vegetables  are  always  crisp  and  tender  and 
retain  their  characteristic  flavor. 


An  Amateur's  Vegetable  Garden 
All  the  space  utilized  and  everything  growing  luxuriantly 


173 


174  GARDEN  GUIDE 

While  the  home  gardener  should  never  be  satisfied  with  anything 
but  abundant  crops  of  the  best  quality,  let  him  also  bear  in  mind  that 
the  garden  should  be  an  expression  of  orderly  arrangement.  No  gar- 
den can  do  its  best  without  intelhgent  care.  A  well  thought  out  scheme 
must  be  followed  if  complete  success  is  to  be  achieved.  Have  the  plot 
properly  laid  out  before  beginning  its  development.  Mark  on  the 
plan  the  location  and  quantity  of  each  vegetable  to  be  grown  and  the 
dates  for  sowing  and  setting.  Companion  and  succession  crops  should 
be  indicated.  With  the  ground  thus  planned  for  utility,  the  crops 
may  be  so  arranged  that  there  will  be  a  continuous  supply  of  fresh 
and  superior  vegetables  for  the  family  table. 

In  some  instances,  a  vegetable  garden  is  objected  to  on  the  ground 
that  it  interferes  with  the  beauty  of  the  surrounding  effects.  But 
the  latter  can  be  made  to  fit  in  with  the  general  scheme.  A  well- 
planned  and  neatly-kept  vegetable  garden  need  never  detract  from 
the  general  appearance  of  the  place;  usually  it  is  a  decidedly  attractive 
feature;  it  lends  an  air  of  simplicity  and  "hominess"  which  flowers 
alone  cannot  furnish.  On  a  "dollars  and  cents"  basis  alone,  the  vege- 
table garden  is,  or  can  almost  always  be  made,  a  paying  factor.  Even 
where  that  side  of  the  matter  is  to  be  disputed  there  is  no  question 
that  to  get  the  very  best  quality  of  vegetables  you  must  grow  your  own. 

The  commercial  grower  must  be  guided  in  his  choice  of  varieties 
by  the  market  demands,  and  by  the  factor  of  big  yields,  even  though 
the  varieties  which  meet  these  requirements  may  not  be  those  of  the 
best  table  quaUty.  The  home  gardener,  on  the  other  hand,  may  select 
varieties  which  satisfy  his  own  personal  taste.  Furthermore,  there  are 
many  vegetables  which,  to  be  had  at  their  very  best,  must  be  gathered 
only  a  few  hours  before  they  are  used.  As  an  old  saying  has  it:  "The 
pot  should  be  boiling  before  you  pick  your  Corn." 

As  a  healthful  recreation,  nothing  surpasses  the  cultivation  of 
culinary  vegetables.  It  never  gets  monotonous,  for  the  work  changes 
from  day  to  day,  and  every  day  brings  its  own  problems.  The  work  in- 
volved may  be  made  as  mild  or  as  strenuous  as  is  desired.  If  one  fears 
that  not  enough  exercise  is  to  be  had  with  a  hoe,  a  few  hours'  "trench- 
ing" with  a  spade  will  give  him  as  big  an  appetite  for  his  dinner  as 
anything  he  can  find  to  do. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  hesitate  about  having  a  vegetable  garden 
because  such  a  location  as  you  may  have  available  is  not  naturally  the 
most  ideal  for  the  purpose.  The  plot  of  ground  which  cannot,  with  in- 
telligent preparation,  be  made  to  grow  successfully  practically  every 
one  of  the  garden  vegetables,  is  by  all  means  the  exception  and  not  the 
general  rule.    At  the  same  time  it  pays  well  to  take  advantage  of  any 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 


175^ 


favorable  natural  conditions  that  may  be  at  hand.  The  best  soil  is 
what  is  termed  a  "sandy  loam,"  that  is,  a  good  clay  soil  in  which  there 
is  enough  material  of  a  sand-like  character  to  keep  it  friable  and  work- 
able at  all  times  of  the  year,  while  moisture  is  retained  by  it  for  a  long 
time.  If  you  have  only  a  heavy  clay  soil,  it  can  be  improved  by  adding 
sand,  wood  ashes,  sifted  coal  ashes,  lime  and  humus.  If  the  soil  is  light 
and  sandy,  heavy  loam  or  muck  added  to  it  will  improve  it,  and  humus 
will  also  be  very  beneficial. 


SmaU  vegetable  garden  on  suburban  lot,  with  neat  wire  fence  on  left 
and  wooden  pathway 

Drainage  is  one  of  the  most  important  factors.  If  your  garden 
spot  is  low  and  wet,  by  all  means  put  in  a  drain  tile  at  the  first  oppor- 
tunity. Deep  spading,  and  in  extreme  cases,  loosening  up  the  subsoil 
with  agricultural  blasting  powder,  will  tend  to  overcome  this  difficulty. 

If  the  garden  can  be  located  in  a  spot  where  it  is  protected  from 
prevaihng  Winter  and  Spring  winds  the  earliness  of  the  crops  will  be 
advanced  very  noticeably.  A  good,  thick  hedge  of  Hemlock,  Spruce, 
or  Privet  to  the  north  and  west  of  the  garden,  if  it  is  not  naturally 
sheltered,  may  be  made  to  serve  the  double  purpose  of  providing  a 
wind  shield,  and  of  screenmg  it  from  other  parts  of  the  place. 


176 


GARDEN  GUIDE 
Growing  Plants  for  Setting  Out 


Hotbeds  and  coldframes  are  really  miniature  gardens  under 
glass  and  are  highly  esteemed  by  the  progressive  gardener.  The  hot- 
bed is  artificially  heated  from  beneath,  usually  by  a  deep  layer  of 
clean  stable  manure,  while  in  the  coldframe  the  only  heat  is  that 
supplied  by  the  sun's  rays.  Frames  and  hotbeds  are  fully  discussed 
in  Chapter  XXV. 


Box  for  the  transplanting  of  seedlings 


If  you  utilize  your  frames  to  advantage,  your  first  plantings  of 
Cabbage,  Cauliflower,  Lettuce,  Beets,  Onions,  Tomatoes,  Peppers, 
Egg  Plants,  Lima  Beans,  Corn,  Cucumbers,  Melons  and  Squash  will 
be  well  started  by  the  time  it  is  warm  enough  to  plant  them  out  of 
doors. 

If  you  have  only  coldframes,  a  few  plants  may  be  started  in  the 
house  in  a  warm,  sunny  window  to  be  put  into  the  frames  when  they 
are  large  enough  to  transplant.  A  supply  of  suitable  soil  should  be 
brought  indoors  in  the  Fall  and  held  for  this  purpose.  Take  a  box 
18  in.  by  24  in.  and  4  in.  deep  and  bore  a  few  holes  in  the  bottom  for 
drainage.  Mix  the  soil  with  well-rotted  manure  and  sand  and  fill  the 
box  to  within  one-half  inch  of  the  top.  Sow  the  seed  thinly  in  shallow 
rows  and  firm  the  surface. 

In  making  a  hotbed  begin  a  week  or  ten  days  before  you  expect  to 
make  your  first  sowing  of  seed.  Procure  horse  maniu*e  that  has  not  yet 
fermented,  allowing  one-sixth  of  a  cord  to  each  sash  to  be  heated. 
Unless  the  manure  has  some  considerable  straw  or  bedding  mixed  in 
with  it,  it  will  be  better  to  add  one-fourth  of  leaves  to  the  manure  when 
it  is  piled  up.  Build  it  up  in  a  square  heap,  tramping  it  down  solidly  as 
it  is  built.  After  three  or  four  days,  fork  it  over  and  restack,  putting 
what  was  the  outside  of  the  heap  in  the  center.  Sprinkle  with  water 
any  parts  of  it  that  may  seem  dry.  Fork  the  heap  over  again  within 
three  or  four  days.    In  this  way  the  whole  mass  may  be  made  to  fer- 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN  177 

ment  evenly,  and  will  be  in  just  the  right  shape  to  put  into  the  frames 
for  your  hotbeds.  Fork  out  the  old  soil  to  a  depth  of  from  four  to  six 
inches;  put  in  the  manure,  tramping  it  down  firmly  to  a  depth  of 
eighteen  inches  or  so.  The  amount  of  manure  required  will  depend 
upon  the  climate  and  upon  how  early  in  the  Spring  the  bed  is  made. 
If  soil  that  is  not  frozen  is  available,  it  will  be  well  to  put  an  inch 
or  so  of  fresh  soil  on  top  of  the  old  in  which  to  sow  the  seeds.  Any  soil 
which  has  been  removed  should  be  put  back  on  top  of  the  manure  and 
thoroughly  fined  and  raked  level.  Then  put  on  the  sashes  and  let 
the  frames  stand  until  a  thermometer  hung  inside  recedes  to  a  tem- 
perature of  70  deg.  to  80  deg.,  when  it  will  be  ready  for  the  first  sowing 
of  seed. 

Digging,  Manuring  and  Preparing  the  Soil 

With  the  soil  adequately  enriched  and  thoroughly  prepared, 
success  is  half  won  before  you  begin.  Insufiicient  preparation,  no  mat- 
ter how  good  your  seeds  may  be,  will  remain  a  drag  and  a  handicap 
throughout  the  entire  season.  The  soil  is  the  sole  source  of  nourish- 
ment for  the  tremendous  development  plants  will  have  to  make  through 
the  comparatively  few  weeks  of  the  growing  season.  All  their  food 
is  absorbed  in  the  form  of  a  weak  solution.  We  have  already  spoken  of 
the  necessity  for  thorough  drainage.  The  soil  must  also  be  well  pul- 
verized. It  pays,  therefore,  to  take  time  to  prepare,  just  as  thoroughly 
as  you  possibly  can,  your  garden  soil,  no  matter  how  impatient  you 
may  be  to  get  at  the  more  interesting  tasks  of  seed  sowing  and  planting. 

If  your  garden  plot  is  sufficiently  large  for  a  horse  or  team  to 
turn  in  plowing  will  be  much  cheaper  and  on  the  whole  much  more 
satisfactory.  Unless  your  soil  is  very  light  and  sandy,  it  will  pay  to 
plow  as  deeply  as  possible  without  digging  up  the  subsoil.  If  pos- 
sible, plow  or  spade  up  in  late  Fall,  leaving  the  soil  in  ridges, 
harrowing  in  Spring.  If  not  able  to  do  this,  then  plow  early  in  the 
Spring.  If  the  garden  has  to  be  dug  by  spade,  you  will  have  to 
watch  carefully  to  see  that  the  job  is  done  thoroughly.  It  is  hard, 
slow  work  and  nothing  is  to  be  gained  by  trying  to  skimp  it.  The 
garden  that  is  dug  shallow,  left  lumpy  or  merely  fine  on  the  surface, 
cannot  give  good  results.  Dig  at  least  ten  to  twelve  inches  deep. 
Manure  should  be  spread  evenly  over  the  ground  before  spading.  It 
is  usually  best  to  throw  the  first  row  or  furrow  of  soil  out  entirely, 
and  then  put  the  manure  from  the  next  strip  on  the  bottom  of  the 
furrow  dug  out,  proceeding  in  this  manner  across  the  piece. 

When  planting  or  sowing  is  to  be  done  the  whole  plot  should  be 
raked  over.    It  may  be  that  only  a  small  part  of  it  will  be  wanted  for 


178  GARDEN  GUIDE 

immediate  use  for  the  hardiest  seeds  or  plants,  but  if  it  is- all  given  the 
same  treatment  the  moisture  will  be  conserved.  It  pays  to  take  a 
good  deal  of  care  and  time  to  get  all  trash  and  stones  raked  up  and  re- 
moved before  you  think  of  getting  the  surface  ready  for  planting. 

For  practical  results  the  enriching  of  your  garden  can  be  accom- 
phshed  in  no  better  way  than  by  the  application  of  all  the  manure  you 
can  conveniently  get.  It  should  be  well  rotted  and  not  green  and 
lumpy.  Horse  and  cattle  manure  mixed  that  has  been  kept  under 
cover  and  has  thoroughly  fermented  but  not  "fire-fanged"  or  burned 
out,  is  the  best.  If  you  can  get  enough  of  this  to  spread  it  three  or  four 
inches  deep  all  over  your  garden,  you  will  have  the  foundation  for  big 
crops. 

Chicken  manure  is  particularly  powerful,  but  should  have  been 
kept  so  that  it  is  fme  and  dry,  and  not  stuck  together  in  a  pasty  mass. 
If  you  have  only  a  small  quantity,  it  is  wise  to  keep  it  just  for  use  in 
hills  and  for  transplanting  rather  than  to  spread  it  over  the  whole  gar- 
den. Sheep  manure,  like  chicken  manure,  is  very  high  in  nitrogen, 
and  should  be  used  in  the  same  way.  Within  recent  years  it  has  been 
possible  to  purchase  cattle,  horse  and  sheep  manure  in  standardized, 
prepared  forms  which  are  dry  and  convenient  to  handle.  Where  yard 
manure  cannot  be  conveniently  obtained,  these  can  be  used. 

Because  it  has  been  increasingly  difficult  to  get"  manures  in  suffi- 
cient quantities,  commercial  fertilizers  have  come  more  into  use.  As 
it  is  more  convenient,  the  small  gardener  usually  buys  his  fertilizer  in 
the  form  of  a  completely  mixed  preparation.    See  Fertilizer  chapter. 

It  will  be  well  to  have  on  hand,  however,  a  small  quantity  each  of 
fine  ground  bone,  guano  or  dried  blood.  These  are  all  quick  acting 
fertilizers  which  can  be  used  in  hills  or  drills.  You  can  also  use  all 
the  wood  ashes  you  can  get.  Dustings  of  lime  are  also  helpful.  Com- 
mercial "humus"  or  prepared  decayed  vegetable  matter  is  inexpensive 
and  will  prove  very  beneficial.     It  is  often  advertised. 


Sowing  and  Transplanting 

The  operations  of  planting  and  transplanting  are  two  at  which  the 
gardener  must  become  expert  as  soon  as  possible.  The  first  step  is 
to  have  a  thoroughly  prepared  seed  bed  or  planting  surface.  Have 
the  soil  thoroughly  pulverized.  It  may  then  be  left  until  ready  for 
use.  Just  before  you  sow  or  plant,  the  surface  should  again  be  gone 
over  with  an  iron  rake.  Make  it  as  smooth  and  fine  as  you  possibly 
can. 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 
Directions  for  Sowing 


179 


It  is  best  to  buy  seed  from  a  good,  reliable  seed  house  rather  than 
to  depend  upon  what  you  may  find  at  the  local  hardware  or  grocery 
store.  Small  seeds  such  as  Lettuce,  Radish  and  Onions  may  be  merely 
raked  into  the  surface;  medium  size  seeds,  such  as  Beets,  Spinach 
and  Parsnips,  from  one-quarter  to  one-half  inch  and  the  comparatively 
large  seeds,  such  as  Cabbage,  Carrots  and  Pumpkins,  about  one-half 
inch  deep.     In  showery  weather  the  seeds  should  be  covered  more 


Lettuce,  Beets,  Onions,  Carrots,  Peas  and  wire  netting  support  for  Peas. 
garden  is  a    model   of  good   keeping 


This 


lightly  than  in  normal  conditions,  in  a  very  Hght  soil,  or  in  hot,  dry 
weather,  cover  more  deeply.  In  extra  early  sowings  of  Peas,  put  the 
seeds  in  a  little  deeper  but  not  much. 

As  a  general  guide,  sow  Onions,  (also  plant  Onion  sets)  smooth 
Peas,  early  Beets,  Radishes,  Spinach,  Turnips  and  Cabbage  just  as 
soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked  in  the  Spring.  When  Peach  and 
Pear  trees  are  in  bloom,  the  medium  hardy  seeds,  including  Beets, 
Carrots,  Kohl-Rabi,  Lettuce,  wrinkled  Peas,  Parsnips,  Salsify,  To- 
matoes, Swiss  Chard  may  be  sown  and  also  Lettuce,  Cauliflowers,  Beets' 
and  Onion  plants  from  the  coldframes  may  be  set  out. 


180  GARDEN  GUIDE 

When  the  apple  trees  are  in  blossom,  sow  the  tenderest  seeds — 
Beans,  Sweet  Corn,  Cucumbers,  Okra,  Melons,  Pumpkins  and  Squash. 

After  all  danger  from  late  frost  is  past,  set  out  growing  plants  of 
Tomatoes,  Peppers,  Egg  Plants,  Pole  Beans,  Melons,  Cucumbers, 
Sweet  Corn  and  Okra. 

Poor  germination  results  are  often  due  to  the  fact  that  seeds  are 
loosely  covered  in  the  soil.  They  should  be  well  firmed  and  covered. 
Firming  can  generally  be  done  well  enough  with  the  back  of  the  hoe  or 
rake. 

For  neatness  make  every  row  straight,  using  your  garden  line  and 
reel  frequently.  Tag  every  row  as  soon  as  it  is  sown  or  planted,  mark- 
ing on  the  date  as  well  as  the  name  of  the  variety.  You  will  thus  be 
able  to  keep  track  of  the  time  required  for  the  different  varieties  to 
mature,  which  will  be  of  great  value  to  you  in  succeeding  years. 

Transplanting 

Transplanting  should  be  done  preferably  during  showery  weather, 
or  in  the  late  afternoon,  and  the  plants  will  take  hold  more  quickly.  If 
they  are  shaded  in  some  way  for  a  few  days,  especially  if  the  weather 
is  windy  and  sunny,  all  the  better.  An  irrigation  system  is  of  the 
greatest  benefit,  in  transplanting  or  planting,  as  the  work  can  be  done 
at  any  time  with  an  almost  positive  certainty  of  success.  In  all  trans- 
planting the  soil  ought  to  be  pressed  firmly. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  directly  in  the  soil,  but  usually  it  is  better  to 
sow  in  "flats"  or  seed  pans,  which  can  be  moved  about  from  one  sash 
to  another  and  handled  more  conveniently  in  transplanting.  Small 
seeds  should  be  barely  covered  from  sight,  while  larger  ones  should  be 
covered  to  the  depth  mentioned  a  few  paragraphs  back.  It  is  important 
to  press  the  seed  firmly  into  the  soil  when  sowing.  Label  each  variety 
carefully  and  water  with  a  fine  spray  so  as  not  to  wash  out  the  seeds. 

As  soon  as  the  little  seedlings  are  up  it  will  be  necessary  to  give 
some  fresh  air  every  day  or  two  to  keep  them  healthy  and  vigorous, 
the  temperature  being  kept  at  from  60  to  75  deg.  according  to  the 
things  being  grown.  As  soon  as  the  first  two  or  three  true  leaves  ap- 
pear, the  seedlings  should  be  transplanted,  either  into  other  "flats"  or 
into  the  frames,  setting  them  from  two  to  three  inches  apart  each  way 
so  they  will  have  plenty  of  room. 

During  this  season  watering  should  be  done  only  on  bright  morn- 
ings so  that  the  soil  wiU  have  a  chance  to  dry  off"  before  night,  as  this 
will  lessen  the  danger  of  "damping  off."  Avoid  over-watering,  as  the 
soil  dries  out  very  slowly  when  the  sashes  have  to  be  kept  on  most  of 
the  time. 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN  181 

Tomatoes,  Peppers  and  Egg  Plants  should  be  transplanted  a 
second  time,  preferably  to  pots,  before  being  set  out  of  doors.  If  they 
have  been  given  plenty  of  room  at  the  first  shift  in  the  frames  or  flats, 
they  can  be  put  into  three  and  a  half-  or  four-inch  pots,  and  be  in 
bud  and  blossom  when  set  into  the  garden. 

It  is  very  important  that  all  plants,  whether  hardy  or  tender, 
should  be  "hardened  off"  carefully  before  being  moved  from  the 
frames  to  the  open  garden.  To  do  this,  leave  them  uncovered  all  the 
time  for  several  days  and  nights  before  you  set  them  out,  putting  on 
the  sashes  only  if  frost  threatens.  Should  plants  inadvertently  get 
touched  by  frost,  watering  them  with  ice-cold  water  in  the  morning 
and  keeping  them  shaded  from  the  sun  will  often  enable  them  to  re- 
cover when  they  might  otherwise  be  lost. 

Watering — Irrigating 

Within  the  last  few  years  there  have  been  developed  several 
systems  for  applying  water  artificially.  Any  gardener  who  has  a  water 
supply  with  thirty  pounds  pressure  available  can  get  his  own  rain 
whenever  he  wants  it  by  installing  an  irrigation  system,  at  a  very 
shght  cost. 

The  type  that  has  been  most  widely  used  consists  of  horizontal 
piping  supported  a  few  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  garden  ajid  per- 
forated at  regular  intervals.  These  pipes  can  be  turned  by  a  handle 
and  a  valve  turns  the  water  on  or  off  as  needed.  A  single  line  of  pipe 
will  water  a  strip  of  ground  twenty-five  feet  wide  on  both  sides,  or  a 
total  of  fifty  feet. 

Another  system  which  is  slightly  more  expensive  and  applies  the 
water  more  rapidly,  has  adjustable  circular  sprays  placed  every  twenty- 
five  or  thirty  feet  along  the  line  of  pipe.    It  also  does  excellent  work. 

Watering  with  a  hose  by  hand  is  not  to  be  compared  with  water 
applied  by  a  modern  irrigating  system.  The  soil  can  be  soaked  evenly 
and  to  as  great  a  depth  as  desired,  the  water  being  put  on  whenever 
and  wherever  wanted  by  simply  turning  a  valve  and  occasionally 
turning  the  pipe.  For  very  small  gardens  a  portable  system  of  both 
types  can  be  had. 

General  Principles  of  Cultivation 

Late  afternoon  or  evening  is  the  best  time  for  watering  vegetables. 
If  a  hand  hose  is  used,  wet  the  ground  thoroughly  by  letting  the  spray 
rise  in  the  air  and  fall  in  a  fine  shower.  To  produce  a  similar  result 
hold  the  sprinkling  can  as  high  as  possible. 

What  is  "cultivation  .^"  Why  do  we  do  it  and  what  does  it  accom- 
pHsh  ?    We  cultivate  to  keep  down  weeds  that  might  rob  the  growing 


18S 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


crop  of  sunlight,  air  and  nourishment;  to  conserve  the  moisture  in  the 
soil;  to  keep  the  soil  open  and  aerated,  and  to  pulverize  the  soil  or 
break  up  its  particles  and  thus  assist  the  chemical  and  bacteriological 
changes  in  the  soil.  Cultivation  brings  these  results.  It  also  creates 
what  is  called  "a  soil  mulch,"  i.  e.,  a  layer  of  dry  soil  on  the  surface 
which  checks  the  loss  of  moisture  from  the  lower  layers  to  the  surface 
where  it  evaporates  rapidly. 

The  cultivation  work  required  on  any  crop  will  depend  largely  on 
whether  or  not  you  get  the  first  hoeing  and  weeding  done  just  as  soon 
as  it  is  possible  to  do  it,  or  let  it  go  for  a  few  days  or  a  week  later. 


A  vegetable  garden  for  supplying  a  large  household.    Here,  as  in  the  smaller  gardens 
depicted  on  other  pages,  cleanliness  and  careful  cultivation  are  pre-eminent.     Ob- 
serve the  handsome  pergola  around  the  exterior 

Within  a  week  or  ten  days  the  soil  between  the  rows  will  have  begun  to 
form  a  crust  again,  and  new  crop  of  weed  seedlings  may  have  sprouted. 
This  means  another  hoeing  promptly.  We  do  not  think  that  it  is  any 
exaggeration  to  say  that  eighty  per  cent,  of  the  work  in  taking  care  of 
gardens  is  due  to  the  fact  that  these  hoeings  and  hand  weedings  are 
allowed  to  go  for  several  days  after  they  should  have  been  attended  to. 
The  tedious  task  of  hand  weeding  may  be  lessened  considerably  by 
using  one  of  the  small  hand  weeders. 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN  183 

Cultivation  should  be  kept  up  frequently  enough  to  maintain  a 
dust  mulch  at  all  times.  Cultivation  with  a  wheel  hoe  should  be  kept 
up  as  long  as  it  is  possible  to  get  between  the  rows.  Then  you  should 
substitute  for  it  a  double  or  slide  hoe.  The  types  with  runners  or  wheel 
to  guide  the  blade  and  hold  it  even  do  much  better  and  easier  work. 
By  all  means,  provide  yourself  with  one. 

Rotation  of  Crops 

Garden  rotation — that  is,  changing  the  location  of  vegetable 
plantings  each  season — is  of  much  importance  and  should  be  carried 
out  as  far  as  possible.  An  excellent  plan  to  follow  is  to  raise  surface 
crops  one  year  on  a  plot  where  root  crops  were  grown  the  year  before. 

Insects  and  Diseases 

There  are  a  number  of  insects  which  are  almost  certain  to  put  in 
appearance  every  season.  One  important  thing  in  combating  insects 
and  diseases  is  to  be  prepared  to  ward  off  attack.  In  cases  where  pre- 
ventive measures  are  not  possible,  be  prepared  to  act  immediately  if 
trouble  appears.  Owing  to  the  large  number  of  remedies,  cures  and 
poisons  which  the  gardener  sees  advertised  or  hears  about,  he  is  likely 
to  get  the  idea  that  the  question  of  plant  pests  is  such  a  complicated 
one  that  no  simple  and  systematic  measures  are  possible.  As  a  matter 
of  fact,  warfare  with  plant  troubles,  while  it  is  always  serious  enough, 
is  by  no  means  as  complicated  as  at  first  appears.  The  first  step  to  take 
and  the  most  important  thing  to  know  is  what  kind  of  enemy  you  are 
fighting  in  any  particular  case.  While  their  number  is  legion,  they  can 
be  classified  into  three  or  four  groups  (as  spoken  of  in  a  chapter  on 
Insect  Pests  and  Fungous  Diseases,  which  see),  against  each  of  which 
the  same  weapons  are  effective. 

Harvesting  and  Storing 

There  are  thousands  of  amateur  gardeners  who  leave  enough  fruit 
and  vegetables  on  or  in  the  ground  at  the  end  of  the  season  to  make  all 
the  difference  between  profit  and  loss  on  their  season's  operations. 
Learn  to  utiHze  everything  you  grow.  Every  head  of  Cabbage  that 
splits,  every  ear  of  Corn,  or  handful  of  Beans  that  gets  too  old  to  use, 
every  root  that  is  left  to  freeze  in  the  ground,  is  just  so  much  waste. 
While  many  things  can  be  successfully  stored  through  the  W^inter,  or  a 
large  part  of  it,  others  must  be  canned.  The  usual  mistake  is  to  try  to  do 
all  the  canning  in  a  rush  at  the  end  of  the  season.  The  prejudice  against 
canned  things  is  largely  due  to  the  fact  that  they  are  not  canned  until 
they  are  already  old  and  tough.  See  Chapter  on  Fruits  and  Vegetables 
for  Winter. 


184  GARDEN  GUIDE 

In  storing  vegetables,  a  few  things  need  an  exceptionally  dry  and 
warm  place,  such  as  a  corner  of  the  attic  near  the  chimney.  The  stor- 
age room  must  be  perfectly  clean.  Get  it  ready  early.  Some  folks  like 
to  provide  containers  to  hold  the  different  fruits  or  vegetables  and  so 
make  them  easy  to  handle.  Some  vegetables  demand  a  free  circulation 
of  air  about  them,  while  others  must  be  kept  barely  moist  by  some 
packing  material.  Ordinary  cracker  boxes  and  slatted  vegetable  or 
Onion  crates,  each  of  which  holds  about  a  bushel,  level  full,  are 
cheap,  clean  and  convenient,  and  can  be  obtained  at  any  grocery  store. 
The  boxes  are  also  excellent  for  keeping  Apples  and  other  fruit,  and  for 
packing  root  crops  such  as  Parsnips,  Salsify,  Turnips,  Beets,  Carrots 
and  Winter  Radishes  in  sand  or  sphagnum  moss,  and  also  for  packing 
Celery  for  Winter.  Slatted  crates  are  good  for  Onions,  Squash,  Cab- 
bage, and  for  handhng  Tomatoes,  Melons,  Egg  Plant  and  so  forth, 
which  can  be  kept  for  some  weeks  in  a  cool  place.  Directions  for  storing 
and  harvesting  the  individual  crops  are  given  in  paragraphs  that 
follow,  but  the  fuller  general  information  is  given  in  this  paragraph 
on  "storage.    See  also  Storage  Cellar  Diagram  and  accompanying  notes. 

Fertilizers  for  Fruits  and  Vegetables 

This  subject  is  fully  discussed  in  a  separate  chapter,  which  see. 

Gardening  Tools 

One  of  the  first  requirements  of  the  gardener  is  an  assortment  of 
tools  with  which  to  till  the  ground.  If  the  garden  is  very  small,  what 
the  catalogues  list  as  a  "ladies'  set,"  which  comprises  a  hoe,  a  rake  and 
a  fork  of  good  quality,  will  be  found  convenient  and  satisfactory. 
Garden  tools  are  dealt  with  in  a  later  chapter. 


VEGETABLE  GARDENING,  by  F.  L.  Watts, 
This  complete,  concise  and  authentic  book  covers  every  phase  of  vegetable 
gardening  and  is  especially  well  organized  as  a  textbook  and  equally  valuable 
as  a  handbook  for  practical  growers.  It  treats  fully  the  guestions  regarding 
soils  fertilizers,  manures,  irrigation,  insect  enemies,  and  fungous  diseases, 
construction  of  hothouses,  coldframes,  seed  growing,  vegetables  under  glass, 
marketing,  etc.,  etc.  Illustrated.  5J^  x  8  in.  525  yages.  Cloth.  Price, 
$2.15,  postpaid 
Secure  your  copy  where  you  bought  your  Garden  Guide 


Sowing  and  Planting  Table  for  Vegetables 


Seeds  or 

Plants 

50-ft.  Row 


Asparagus,  Seeds. . 
Asparagus,  Roots. . 

Beans,  Bush* 

Beans,  Pole 

Beans,  Lima* 

Beets* 

Broccoli* 

Brussels  Sprouts*. 
Cabbage,  Early* . . 
Cabbage,  Late  — 

Cardoon 

Carrots 

Cauliflower* 

Celeriac 

Celery 

Chard,  Swiss 

Chicory,  Witloof.. 
Chinese  Cabbage. . 

Collards y 

Corn 

Corn  Salad 

Cress 

Cucumbers* 

Egg-plant* 

Endive 

Horse  Radish 

Kale  (Borecole) 

Kohl  Rabi* 

Leek 

Lettuce* 

Melons,  Musk* 

Melons,  Water. ... 

Mustard , 

Okra 

Onions 

Parsley* , 

Parsnip 

Peas,  Dwarf 

Peas,  Tall 

Peppers* 


Potatoes 

Pumpkins .  .  . 

Radish 

Rhubarb,  Seed 

Rhubarb,  Roots — 

Rutabaga 

Sabify 

Sea  Kale,  Seed 

Sea  Kale,  Roots 

Spinach 

Squash,  Bush 

Squash,  Running. . . 

Tomato* 

Turnip 

Vegetable  Marrow. 
Watercress 


K-1  oz. 

40-50  rts. 

Ipt. 

Mpt. 
Mpt. 

1  oz. 
25  pits. 
25  pits. 
35  pits. 
25  pits. 

M  oz. 

H  oz. 
20-25  pits. 

H  oz. 

Hoz. 

H  oz. 

H  oz. 

H  oz. 
25-35  pits, 

Hpt. 

1  oz 

M  oz. 

M  oz. 
25  pits. 

}4  oz. 
40-50  rts. 

H  oz. 

H  oz. 

H  oz. 

M  oz. 

H  oz. 

^oz. 

M  oz. 

1  oz. 

14  oz. 

H  oz. 

M  oz. 

1  pt. 
1  pt. 

25  pits. 

M  Pk. 
H  oz. 
H  oz. 
H  oz. 

li  oz. 
M  oz. 
14  oz. 

M  oz. 
M  oz. 
H  oz. 
25  pits. 
M  oz. 
M  oz. 
M  oz. 


Apart 
in  Rows 


3-5  in. 
1ft. 

3-4  in. 

3-4  ft. 

4-5  ft. 
4-in. 
18-24  in, 
18-24  in. 
16-18  in. 
18-24  in. 
12-18  in 

3-4  in. 
24-30  in 

6-8  in. 
6in. 

6-8  in. 

6  in. 

18-20  in, 

18-24  in 

12  in. 

3  in. 
Br'dcast 

4  ft. 
24  in. 
12  in. 

12-15  in. 

18-24  in. 

6-8  in. 

4  in. 

6-8  in. 

4-5  ft. 

6-8  ft. 

8-12  in. 

18  in. 

2-3  in. 

3-6  in. 

3-4  in. 

2  in. 

2  in. 

2  ft. 

12-15  in. 

8  ft. 

1-2  in. 

10-12  in. 

3  ft. 
6  in. 

3-4  in. 
6  in. 

3  ft. 

4  in. 
4-5  ft. 
7-S  ft. 

18-24  in. 
4-6  in. 
5-8  ft. 
2-3  in. 


Distance 

Between 

Rows 


1-2  ft. 

3  ft. 
2-21^  ft. 

3-4  ft. 

4-5  ft. 
12-15  in. 
30-36  in. 
30-36  in. 
30-36  in. 
30-36  ii^. 

24  in. 
12-15  in. 
30-36  in. 

18  in. 

3-4  ft. 
15-18  in. 

18  in. 
24-30  in. 
24-30  in. 

36  in. 
12-15  in. 

12  in. 

4  ft. 
21^-3  ft. 
12-18  in. 
24-30  in. 

24  in. 
18-24  in. 

18  in. 
12-15  in. 

4-5  ft. 

6-8  ft. 
15-18  in. 

2-3  ft. 

12  in. 
12  18  in. 

18  in. 

3  ft. 

4  ft. 
21^-3  ft. 

2K-3  ft. 

8  ft. 

8-12  in. 

12  in. 

3-5  ft. 

18-24  in. 

12-18  in. 

15  in. 

3  ft. 

12-18  in. 

4-5  ft. 

7-8  ft. 

3  ft. 

15-18  in. 

5-8  ft. 

6-in. 


Depth  of 
Planting 


H-1  in. 

Ij4-2'in. 
lM-2  in. 
lH-2in. 

lin. 
M-M  in. 
M-M  in. 
M-K  in. 
H-y2  in. 

lin. 

J^in. 
M-M  in. 

Min. 

Hin. 

lin. 

H  in. 
H-'A  in. 

Hin. 
lH-2  in. 

M  in. 

Min. 

3^  in. 

J^in. 
M-^  in. 

Hin. 

Hin. 

^in. 
Vs-H  in. 

Min. 

Min. 

H'm. 
lin. 

^2  in. 
M-H  in. 

Hin. 

1-2  in. 

2  in. 

Kin. 

3  4-in. 
lin. 

Min. 
K-1  in. 

Vi-i  in. 
J^-in. 
3^-1  in. 

Vi-l  in. 
K-lin. 
M  in. 
H-1  in. 
lin. 
Vs-H  in 


Time  of 
Planting 


Spring 

Spring 
May  to  Aug. 
May-June 
May-June 
Apr.-Aug. 
Mar.-June 
May-June 
Mar.-Apr. 
May-June 
Apr. -May 
Apr.-June 
Apr.-June 
May-June 
May- June 
Apr.-May 
May-June 
July- Aug. 

May 
May-July 
Mar.-Aug. 
Mar.-Sept. 
May-June 
Apr.-May 

April 

Spring 
Mar.-Apr. 
Mar.-May 
Mar.-May 
Mar.-Sept. 
Apr.-June 
May-June 
Mar.-Sept. 
May-June 
Apr.-May 
Apr.-June 
Apr.-May 
Mar.-July 
Mar.-July 
May  (Mar.  in 
hotbed) 
Mar.-May 
May- July 
Mar.-Sept. 
Mar.-Apr. 
Mar.-Apr. 
May-June 
Apr.-May 
May-June 

Mar.-Apr. 
Apr.-June 
Apr.-June 
Mar.-May 
Apr. -July 
Apr.-June 
Apr.-Seot. 


Ready  for 
Use  after 
Planting 


3-4  years 
2-3  years 
45-75  days 
50-80  days 
70-100  days 
60-  70  days 

100-130  days 
90-120  days 
90-130  days 
90-130  days 

150-170  days 
60-  85  days 

100-140  days 

100-150  days 

125-150  days 
60-  80  days 
5-6  months 
60-  90  days 

100-120  days 
60-100  days 
60-  70  days 
30-  40  days 
60-  80  days 

100-140  days 
75-100  days 

130-150  days 
70-100  days 
60-  80  days 

120-150  days 
60-100  days 
90-120  days 

100-125  days 
60-  90  days 
80-120  days 

120-175  days 
90-120  days 

100-150  days 
50-  80  days 
50-  80  days 

100-140  days 

70-120  days 

100-130  days 

25-50  days 

3-4  years 

2-3  years 

80-100  days 

120-170  days 
3d  year 
2-3  years 
60-  80  days 
50-  60  days 
70-100  days 

100-140  days 
60- 80  days 

100-140  days 
60-  80  days 


*For  early  crops  start  in  hotbeds  or  coldframes  February,  March  or  April,  according 
to  location  and  season.     Bean  seeds  should  not  be  planted  before  April. 

NOTE. — Planting  dates  are  given  for  the  latitude  of  New  York.  Farther  South  the 
sowings  should  be  made  earlier  in  the  year,  and  farther  North  correspondingly  later  iis  soil 
becomes  warm  and  weather  settled.  Over  a  great  area  of  the  United  States  owing  to  weather 
conditions,  sowings  that  were  made  one  year  on  April  1  it  might  not  be  possible  to  make  until 
May  1  the  next  year  in  the  same  section,  owing  to  backward  season,  or  again  the  reverse  may 
take  place.  The  lesson  is  obvious:  the  gardener  must  stand  ready  to  plant  his  seed  or  set  out 
his  younu  planta  the  moment  the  opportunity  offers. 

185 


186  GARDEN  GUIDE 

CULTIVATION  OF  THE  CHIEF  VEGETABLES 

The  principles  of  fertility  and  culture,  which  have  been  covered  in 
the  previous  chapters,  apply  alike  to  all  vegetables. 


ASPARAGUS 

This  excellent  vegetable  may  be  grown  from  seed,  but  as  it  does  not 
come  into  full  bearing  until  the  third  or  fourth  year  from  sowing  it  is  more 
satisfactory  to  purchase  two-year-old  roots.  A  hundred  or  two  Asparagus 
plants,  well  cared  for,  will  supply  the  home  table.  Select  well  drained 
soil  in  which  to  plant  this  crop,  preferably  one  a  httle  sandy.     Dig  out 

trenches  about  eighteen  inches  deep 
and  three  feet  apart.  Tread  into 
these  six  inches  or  so  of  manure,  and 
cover  this  with  good  soil  to  within 
six  inches  of  the  surface.  On  this 
prepared  bed,  during  the  late 
Autumn  or  early  Spring,  set  the 
roots  a  foot  apart,  spreading  them 
out  evenly.  Fill  the  trench  only 
two- thirds  or  so  at  first,  and  work 
the  rest  of  the  soil  in  until  it  is 
level  as  the  plants  develop.  Beans, 
Beets,  Carrots,  Lettuce,  can  be 
grown  between  the  rows  of  Aspara- 
gus during  the  first  part  of  the 
season.  As  the  shoots  or  growths 
develop  in  the  Spring,  a  few  of  the 
largest  may  be  cut,  but  only  for  a 
few  weeks  the  first  year.  Cultivate 
thoroughly,  however,  to  get  as 
vigorous  a  growth  of  plants  as 
possible.  Cease  cutting  when  the 
shoots  become  tough  or  stringy 
(about  June  24  in  the  latitude  of 
New  York)  and  allow  the  tops  to 
grow,  removing  and  burning  them 
in  the  late  Fall.  Then  cultivate 
the  soil  and  apply  manure  or 
fertilizer.  This  is  to  throw  strength 
into  the  crown  for  the  early  Spring 
growth,    as  the  succulent  roots  act  as  storehouses  of  plant  food. 


Refugee  Wax  Beans 


BEANS 

Always  select  a  warm  and  fertile  soil  if  available.  Avoid  nitrogenous 
manures  or  fertilizers  near  the  seeds.  As  Beans  will  not  withstand  cold 
weather,  it  is  quite  useless  to  plant  before  the  ground  is  reasonably  warin. 
Bush  Beans  are  planted  in  rows  24  to  30  in.  apart,  13^  to  2  in.  deep;  thin 
out  to  3  or  4  in.  between  each  bean.  Good  res  ilts  are  obtained  by  planting 
in  double  rows  5  to  6  in.  apart.    As  the  plants  develop  hill  them  slightly. 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 


187 


Cultivate  the  soil  frequently,  but  never  while  the  foliage  is  wet,  as  hoeing 
when  the  vines  are  moist  spreads  disease  and  often  results  in  a  failure  of 
the  crop.  Pick  the  pods  before  they  attain  full  size;  they  are  then  tender 
and  almost  stringless.  For  a  continuous  supply  make  successive  sowings 
every  ten  days  or  two  weeks. 


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Plan  for  the  cropping  of  a  Southern  garden  50ft.  by  75ft.     From  U.  S. 
Farmers'  Bulletin  647 


188 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


The  Dwarf  Limas  are  only  partly  dwarf,  and  should  be  given  more 
space  than  the  Green  and  Wax  Beans.  Put  the  seed  in  edgewise  with  the 
eye  down,  and  if  possible,  avoid  jjlanting  within  two  or  three  days  of  rain. 

Pole  or  running  Beans  are  usually  planted  in  specially  prepared  hills 
3  to  4  ft.  apart,  and  supported  on  rough  poles  or  stakes  with  cross  pieces. 
A  better  way  is  to  grow  them  in  rows,  and  support  them  on  a  continuous 
treUis.  For  a  long  bearing  season  keep  all  pods  picked  off  as  fast  as  they 
are  large  enough.  Many  varieties,  however,  are  good  as  shell  Beans  after 
they  mature. 

Pole  Limas  should  not  be  planted  until  the  ground  is  thoroughly 
warm.    Set  the  seed,  eye  downward,  in  hills  4  to  5  ft.  apart.    In  each  hill 

place  8  to  10  beans,  13^  to  2  in.  deep, 
and  when  the  plants  are  established 
thin  to  4  or  5 .  Many  gardeners  now 
use  the  Bush  Lima  instead  of  the 
Pole;  they  are  just  as  satisfactory 
and  require  no  support. 


BEETS 

Beets  thrive  in  well  enriched, 
moist  soil.  Sow  the  seed  1  in.  deep 
in  drills  12  to  15  in.  apart,  and  thin 
out  early  to  4  in.  The  thinnings  from 
the  crop  make  excellent  greens.  As 
with  all  the  root  crops,  especially 
when  planted  early  in  the  season, 
growth  will  be  greatly  stimulated  by 
a  slight  application  of  nitrate  of  soda. 
Make  two  or  three  sowings  between 
April  and  the  latter  part  of  June 
when  the  crop  for  Fall  use  and  Winter 
storage  is  put  in. 


Egyptian  Beets 


BROCCOLI— BRUSSELS  SPROUTS 

Broccoli  is  a  crop  similar  to  Cauliflower,  but  much  hardier.  Give 
same  culture  as  Cauliflower  and  grow  for  Fall  and  Winter  use,  as  it  does 
not  thrive  in  the  hot  season. 

Brussels  Sprouts,  an  extremely  delicious  vegetable,  is  grown  in  much 
the  same  way  as  Cauliflower  or  Cabbage.  The  "buttons"  or  small  heads 
which  form  along  the  stalk  may  be  grown  to  a  larger  size  by  pinching  out 
the  crown  of  the  plant  after  the  "buttons"  have  formed.  These  plants  are 
extremely  hardy  and  the  "buttons,"  which  are  improved  by  frost,  may  be 
left  on  the  stalk  and  gathered  when  wanted  until  Midwinter. 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 


189 


CABBAGE 

Use  deep  and  very  rich  soil 
which  is  not  lacking  in  Ume, 
and  in  addition  to  this,  put 
manure  or  fertilizer  in  the  hills 
or  rows.  Cover  the  seed  }/i  to 
3/2  in.  deep.  The  early  varie- 
ties may  be  set  as  close  as  16 
in.  or  18  in.,  the  rows  being  30 
to  36  in.  apart.  For  late  varie- 
ties leave  18  to  24  in.  between 
plants.  Plants  started  under 
glass  are  set  out  early  in  April, 
and  seeds  planted  at  the  same 
time  will  give  plants  for  a  suc- 
cession crop .  Plants  for  the  late 
crop  are  started  in  the  latter 
part  of  May  or  early  during 
the  first  half  of  June.  As  a  rule, 
the  earlier  the  better.  One 
of  the  most  important  points  in 

growing  strong  plants  for  transplanting  is  to  thin  them  out  to 
several  inches  apart  as  soon  as  they  are  well  started;  also  keep  them  thor- 
oughly cultivated  at  all  stages  of  growth .  A  shght  hilling  up  as  they  develop 
is  desirable.  Two  or  three  light  applications  of  nitrate  of  soda  given  a 
week  or  so  after  transplanting,  and  again  in  from  ten  to  fourteen  days, 
will  help  wonderfully  in  giving  the  crop  a  strong  start.  Very  palatable 
"greens"  can  be  obtained  by  leaving  the  stalks  of  early  cabbage  in  the 
ground  to  produce  "sucker  growths."  Keep  a  sharp  lookout  for  insect 
pests.  During  the  growing  season  the  plants  may  be  troubled  by  a 
destructive  green  worm,  which  can  be  controlled  by  a  weak  spray  of  arsenate 
of  lead  early  in  their  growth,  but  just  before  the  heads  begin  to  form  it  is 
safer  to  use  a  non-poisonous  remedy;  Slug  Shot  is  very  effectual  as  a 
destroyer  of  these  troublesome  pests;  apply  it  when  the  plants  are  moist 
from  dew. 


Cabbage — Fresh  and  tempting 


CARROTS 

The  general  cultural  requirements  are  similar  to  those  recommended 
for  Beets,  with  the  exception  that  the  ground  can  hardly  be  made  too  rich 
for  the  latter,  while  Carrots  will  often  do  excellently  on  ground  which  is 
not  of  so  good  tilth.  For  instance,  if  part  of  your  garden  is  new  ground. 
Carrots  will  be  all  right  there,  while  Beets  would  do  better  on  the  old  soil 
in  the  highest  state  of  cultivation.  Cover  seed  Yi  in.  deep.  For  the 
earhest  crop  sow  a  variety  recommended  for  forcing  in  the  hotbed  or  cold- 
frame  in  rows  12  in.  apart,  setting  Radishes  between.  The  Radishes  will 
be  out  of  the  way  in  time  for  the  Carrots  to  develop.  Where  space  is 
limited,  a  late  planting  of  Onions  for  Winter  use  may  be  put  in  between  the 


Garden  Plan  for  a  City  or  Suburban  Plot 

20  ft.  wide  by  25  ft.  long 

HORTH 


SPRING  SPINACH  foil. "by  BUSH  LIMA  BEAl^S 

GATE 

Eh 

< 

GATE. 
n  WIC 

Mint 

and 
PARSLE-i 

bed 

EARLY  BEETS  followed  by  BUSH  BEANS 

LATE  CARROTS  and  SWISS  CHARD 

Bed 

EARLY  CARROTS  followed  by  LfflTE  LLITUCE 

<A 

ONION  SETS  followed  by  BUSH  BEANS 

0 

BUSH  BEANS  followed  by  LATE  BEETS 

EARLY  DWARF  PEAS  followed  by  CELERY 

EARLY  RADISH  and  EARLY  TURNIPS 

EARLY  DWARF  PEAS  followed  bv  CELERY 

1 

v.aa  PT.ATTTq 

PATH 

< 

EARLY  LETTUCE  PLANTS 

STRAW- 
BERRY 

-or- 

F'LOWEK 
Bed 

Glass 
Covered 

COLD 
FRAME 

3x6f t . 

Glass 
Covered 

HOT 
BED 

3x6f t , 

lU 

^  TOMATO  ,^  PLANTS  ^ 

EARLY  CAULIFLOWER  PLfiKTS 

,,  TOMATO  ^^  PLANTS  j^ 

EARLY  CABBAGE  PLANTS  . 

^TOMATO  ^  PLANTS  ^ 

PATH 

SO 

UTH    - 

-    ZO  F- 

>e 

Further  details  of  Garden  Plan  above: 

If  there  are  no  fence  divisions  a  low  wire  netting  will  keep  out  dogs  and  cats  from  the 
garden.  Seed  is  to  be  planted  excepting  where  "plants"  are  mentioned.  All  rows  are 
18  in.  apart.     The  path  is  2  ft.  wide.     Beds  to  the  right  are  3  ft.  wide. 

After  Spring  plants  are  out  of  the  frames,  two  hills  of  Cucumbers  may  be  planted  in 
the  hotbed,  and  two  hills  of  Bush  Squash  in  the  coldframe. 

The  Lettuce,  Cauliflower,  and  Cabbage  Plants  will  mature  before  the  Tomatoes 
overshade  them. 

X — Indicates  a  Tomato  plant,  three  plants  to  a  row. 

=  (Double  parallel  lines)— Indicate  that  the  seed  of  Beets,  Carrots,  Onions,  Radishes, 
and  Turnips,  may.be  planted  in_double  rows  about  3  in.  apart. 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 


191 


rows  in  late  June, 
omitting  every  sec- 
ond or  third  row, 
giving  room  to  dry 
and  harvest  the 
Onions.  It  will 
prove  successful 
only  if  the  ground 
is  free  from  weeds, 
.  and  soil  moisture 
from  irrigation  or 
otherwise  is  to  be 
relied  upon.  Give 
careful  attention  to 
the  thinning  of  the 
young  plants,  leav- 


Early  Scarlet  Horn  Carrots 


ing  sufficient  room  between  each  for  the  carrots  to  attain  their  full  size.  Look 
out  for  the  striped  carrot  worms.  The  most  effective  and  easiest  way  of 
deahng  with  them  is  to  pick  them  off  the  taps  and  destroy  them. 


CARDOON 

Used  principally  as  a  Winter  vegetable.  Sow  in  May  in  drills  2  ft. 
apart  and  1  in.  deep;  thin  to  12  to  18  in.  The  soil  should  be  rich,  with 
plenty  of  moisture.  In  the  Autumn  the  fleshy  leaves  are  blanched  by  being 
drawn  together. 


CAULIFLOWER 

This  crop  is  handled  in  much  the  same  way  as  Cabbage,  with  the  fol- 
lowing additional  cultural  requirements.     The  plants  are  more  tender  and 

should  not  be  set  out  until  a  week  or 

so  after  the  first  planting  of  Cabbage- 

Cauliflower    is    a    very    gross    feeder 

and  even  larger  quantities  of  manure 

and    fertilizer    can    be    applied    with 

advantage.   An  abundance  of  water  is 

also  of  the  greatest  importance.     To 

be  kept  white  and  tender  the  "heads" 

or  curds  must  be  protected  from  the 

sun  soon  after  they  begin  to  form  by 

tying  the  leaves  together  over  them. 

i.uxar,.„,.       jjjg  "heads"  remain   in   the   best   of 

Cauliflower— Proving  that   shallow   condition  for  only  a  few  days  and  should 

c;:l:i;aJISSSJ'S£'S,lL'.''t'r^lkPly^  fc"  e^«™"«<»  frequently   when   about 

luxuriant  growth  ready  to  prevent    gomg  by. 


19!^ 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


CELERIAC— CELERY 

Celeriac  is  a  turnip-rooted  form  of  Celery  used  for  cooking.  Its 
cultivation  is  similar  to  that  for  Celery,  but  it  does  not  need  banking 
or  blanching.  Sow  about  }4  in.  deep  in  drills  18  in.  apart  and  thin  out 
to  6  to  8  in. 

The  first  requirement  in  growing  good  Celery  is  a  good  supply  of  water. 
The  soil  can  hardly  be  made  too  rich.  Early  Cabbage  and  early  Beets, 
Peas,  Lettuce,  etc. ,  arelusaally  out  of  the  way  in  time  to  put  in  the  Celery, 
so  that  the  same  ground  can  be  used,  but  an  additional  dressing  of  fertihzer 

should  be  given.  For  early  use  set 
out  strong  plants  in  April  or  May, 
putting  the  rows  3  to  4  ft.  apart,  and 
the  plants  6  in.  in  the  row.  Where 
irrigation  is  available  the  plants  are 
sometimes  grown  in  beds,  being  placed 
8  to  10  in.  apart  each  way;  many 
more  sorts  may  be  grown  in  the  same 
area  but  they  never  are  as  heavy  as 
those  grown  in  rows.  The  early  crop 
is  blanched  where  it  grows,  either  by 
backing  up  with  soil  which  is  drawn 
in  carefully  about  the  stalks  to  hold 
them  in  an  upright  position  as  they 
develop,  or  through  a  more  conven- 
ient means;  that  is.  Celery  blanchers 
of  various  types  which  are  now  obtain 
able.  For  late  Fall  and  Winter  use 
the  seed  is  sown  one-eighth  of  an  inch 
deep  in  April  and  the  plants  set  out 
„  J .  in  June  or  July.  Stronger  plants  can 

^     ^  ^^^  be  obtained  by    transplemting    from 

the  seed-bed  to  give  the  plants  several  inches  apart  each  way.  This  makes 
them  stocky  and  develops  a  fibrous  root  system  which  will  give  quicker 
and  better  results  than  if  they  are  set  out  in  the  garden.  When  raised 
in  a  frame  sow  your  seed  in  a  shaded  position.  In  transplanting  water 
thoroughly  and  shade  from  the  midday  sun  for  a  few  days.  Be  careful 
not  to  get  any  soil  over  the  hearts  of  the  plants.  Give  clean  culture  and 
one  or  two  top  dressings  of  nitrate  of  soda  as  the  plants  develop,  and  throw 
enough  soil  up  to  them  to  hold  the  stalks  upright.  The  celery  crop  should 
never  be  worked  or  handled  while  the  foliage  is  wet  as  this  will  tend  to 
augment  any  disease  there  may  be.  Blanching  is  accomphshed  by  taking 
up  the  plants  with  such  soil  as  adheres  to  the  roots,  and  packing  them  close 
together  and  upright  in  a  trench  12  to  15  in.  wide,  and  deep  enough  so  that 
the  tops  of  the  leaves  come  about  on  the  level  of  the  soil.  As  cold,  freezing 
weather  approaches,  the  trench  is  covered  with  a  mulch  or  with  boards; 
a  portion  of  the  crop  left  for  Winter  use  may  be  transferred  to  boxes  and 
stored  in  the  cellar.    See  Winter  care  of  Celery. 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 


193 


CHICORY— CHINESE  CABBAGE— COLLARDS 

Sown  in  Spring  one-half  inch  deep  in  rows  18  in.  apart  and  thinned  to 
6  in.  apart,  the  Chicory  (or  Witloof)  plant  yields  long,  Parsnip-like  roots 
by  Fall,  when  they  are  dug  and  shorn  of  leaves  to  within  13^  in.  of  the 
neck.  The  roots  are  then  replanted  13-^  to  2  in.  apart  in  trenches  and  cov- 
ered with  8  in.  of  fine  soil.  Here  they  produce  an  abundance  of  blanched 
leaves  which  make  a  splendid  Winter  salad;  they  can  also  be  cooked  as 
greens. 


Handy  device  for  marking  off  rows  in  the  vegetable  garden 

Chinese,  or  Celery  Cabbage  (Pe-Tsai)  is  a  very  desirable  vegetable,  a 
native  of  China,  is  easily  and  rapidly  grown  in  good  garden  soil.  It  requires 
about  the  same  treatment  as  Cabbage,  but  as  it  has  a  tendency  to  run  to 
seed  in  the  hot  Summer  months,  sowing  should  be  deferred  until  July  or 
early  August.  Cover  seed  3^  to  3^  in.  in  rows  24  to  30  in.  apart,  and  thin  the 
young  plants  to  18  to  20  in.  The  heads,  which  are  easily  blanched,  resemble 
well-grown  Cos  Lettuce.  They  make  a  very  palatable  dish  when  cooked 
like  Spinach  or  Cabbage,  or  they  can  be  used  raw  as  a  salad. 

Collards  are  of  tall  growth  and  produce  a  loose  cluster  of  leaves.  The 
variety  known  as  Georgia,  which  endures  extreme  heat,  is  largely  grown 
in  the  Southern  States  and  used  as  a  substitute  for  Cabbage,  the  leaves 
being  tender  and  of  fine  flavor.  Sow  seed  in  rows  24  to  30  in.  apart  and 
cover  to  depth  of  3^  in.,  allowing  the  plants  to  stand  18  to  24  in.  apart  in 
the  row. 


CORN 

To  get  an  extra  early  crop ,  a  hundred  or  so  plants  may  readily  be  started 
in  small  paper  pots  in  a  coldframe,  not  to  be  planted  until  a  week  or  two  be- 
fore it  would  be  seife  to  plant  outdoors.  For  this  purpose.  Golden  Bantam, 
which  is  extra  hardy  and  also  dwarf  in  growth,  is  particularly  good.  As 
Corn  remains  at  its  best  but  a  few  days,  succession  should  be  provided  for, 

(Continued  on  page  196) 


194  GARDEN  GUIDE 

Plan  of  a  Practical  Vegetable  Garden 
36  ft.  by  48  ft. 

A  garden  plan  must  of  necessity  be  arbitrary  as  to  area.  It  is 
easily  made  adaptable  to  any  given  piece  of  ground,  through  a  little 
mental  effort.  Either  enlarge  or  reduce  to  fit  the  case,  but  do  not  fail 
to  follow  the  details  of  locating  the  various  rows;  correct  position  of 
one  row  of  plants  in  relation  to  its  neighbor  row,  is  an  essential  fea- 
ture in  the  vegetable  garden;  this  for  air,  sunshine  and  succession 
crops. 

The  Asparagus  bed  is  6  by  14  ft.;  the  Strawberry  bed  6  by  19  ft., 
with  a  3-ft.  path  between.  The  distance  between  each  row  is  given 
in  inches.  The  sections  devoted  to  Hybrid  Tea  and  Tea  Roses  and  to 
Annual  and  Perennial  Herbaceous  Flowering  Plants  are  each  4  by  19 
ft.,  while  the  Hotbed  and  Coldframe  section  is  12  ft.  by  6  ft.,  with  3  ft. 
path  below,  all  other  paths  being  2  ft.  wide. 

This  garden  is  intended  to  be  shut  in  by  a  wire-netting  fence, 
not  less  than  4  ft.  high.  The  ground  for  the  "following"  or  "succes- 
sion" crops  must  be  dug  as  deeply,  and  be  as  well  pulverized  and  as 
freely  fertilized  as  for  the  first  crops,  not  merely  raked  over. 

The  planting  of  certain  seeds  in  the  various  rows  has  been  care- 
fully thought  out  so  as  to  obtain  necessary  light  and  space  and  with  a 
view  to  the  "succession"  crops,  for  no  garden  can  be  considered  a 
successful  garden  which  does  not  give  at  least  two  crops  in  a  season 
over  the  greater  part  of  its  area.  Thus,  the  early  Cabbage,  Gauh- 
flower  and  Lettuce  plants  will  have  matured  before  the  Tomatoes 
overgrow  them.  The  early  Sweet  Corn  should  be  pulled  out  as  the 
ears  are  gathered  to  let  in  the  light  on  the  Cabbage  and  Brussels  Sprouts. 
Cucumbers  in  Summer  can  be  grown  in  coldframes  and  hotbed. 

As  regards  Tomatoes,  early  Lettuce,  Cabbage,  Egg  .Plants, 
Cauliflower,  Brussels  Sprouts,  Kale,  and  Peppers,  the  seeds  of  these 
should  not  be  sown  directly  in  the  garden  rows,  but  plants  raised 
from  seeds  sown  in  hotbeds  or  frame,  should  be  transplanted  into 
these  rows. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  practical  garden  layouts  ever  prepared  for 
the  amateur  and  we  trust  the  amateur  will  appreciate  it.  It  was 
planned  by  Joseph  H,  Sperry,  a  veteran  gardener. 


Plan  of  a  Practical  Vegetable  Garden 

This  Garden  is  36  ft.  wide  by  48  ft.  long 


Late   Sweet    Con 


Late   Sweet    Cor 


Brussels   Sprouts 


fZ,"  Tall    Peas    followed    by    Celery 


l»'Early  Cabbage  Plants  Set  Out  Very  Early 


'I'Early  Cabbage  Plants  Set  Out  Very  Ear 


11"  Early    Cauliflower   Set   Out    Very    Early 


Early   Sweet    Corn 


Late   Cabbage 


Early    Swe 


If         Tall    Peas   followed    by    Celery 


»"  Early   Dwarf   Peas    followed    by   Celery 


rEarly  Dwarf  Peas  followed  by  Late  Catbage 


Tomato    Plants 


Tomato    Plants 


Tomato    Plants 


I'  Early   Cauliflower   Set   Out    Very    Early 


Tomato   Pla 


Tomato    Plants 


"  Early  Lettuce  Plants  Set  Out  Very  Early 


Summer   Bush   Squash 


l»  Spinach    followed    by    Bush    Lima    Beans 


It' 


Spinach 


't  Spinach    followed    by    Bush    Lima    Beans 


Radish 


?    Radish  followed  by  Bush   Lima  Bear 


Entrance 
Gate 


l'  E^rly  Turnip  followed  by  Bush  Lima  Beans 


PATH 


-s  ^ 


PATH 


Glass 

Covered 

Glass 
Covered 
Hot    Bed 

Glass 

Glass 

Cold    Pit 

for 
Wintering 

Covered 
Cold 
Frame 

Covered 
Cold 
Frame 

Plants 

^f* 

PATH 


K)"Mint,  Parsley.  Thyme  and  Other  Herb 


Salsify 


!     Early    Beets    followed    by    Bush    Beans 


I*   Early    Beets  followed    by    Bush    Beans 


It'   Esrly  Beets    followed    by    Bush    Beans 


(I  Early'Carrots  followed  by  Autumn  Radish 


Late  Carrots  for  Autumn  and  Winter 


Late  Carrots  for  Autumn  and  Winter 


Swiss   Chard 


li    Onions   from   Sets    followed    by    Lettuce 


r    On 


from    Sets   followed    by    Kale 


l"     Onions   from   Sets   followed    by    Kale 


(}     Bush    Beans   followed    by    l^te    Beets 


Jush    Beans   followed    by    Late    Beets 


li'  Bush   Beans   followed   by   Late  Turnips 


It" 


Pepper   Plants 


Egg    Plants 


Early  Lettuce  from  Seeds  followed  by  Late  Turnips 


^Zfr 


PATH 


'Asparagus   Bed 
6X  If  ^ 


For  description  of  this  Garden  see  page  194 


196  GARDEN  GUIDE 

{Continued  /ram  page  193) 

either  by  making  a  small  planting  every  week  or  ten  days,  or  planting  an 
early,  a  medium  and  a  late  variety  at  the  same  time,  early  in  May,  early 
in  June,  and  early  in  July.  In  the  open  ground  plant  5  or  6  seeds  13^  to  2 
in.  deep  in  hills  3  ft.  apart  each  way.  A  mistake  that  is  sometimes  made  is 
to  leave  too  many  stalks  in  a  hill.  Thin  out  to  three  or  four  for  best  results. 
Give  good  clean  culture  with  a  slight  hilUng  up  when  the  plants  are  12  or 
18  in.  high;  this  is  about  all  the  plants  require.  It  is  often  more  convenient 
to  plant  and  cultivate,  and  just  as  good  results  can  be  obtained  by  sowing 
in  continuous  rows  or  driUs  3  ft.  apart  instead  of  in  hiUs,  the  plants  being 
left  to  stand  about  a  foot  apart.  Remove  all  suckers  which  develop  from 
the  base  of  the  main  stalk.  A  disease  known  as  smut,  which  appears  in 
a  sooty  mass  on  Corn,  is  very  destructive.  Remove  and  burn  the  affected 
parts  as  soon  as  discovered. 


CORN  SALAD— CRESS 

Corn  Salad,  or  Fetticus,  is  grown  as  a  substitute  for  Lettuce  during 
the  late  Fall  months  as  it  does  not  thrive  during  warm  weather.  Sow  thinly 
in  late  August  or  early  September,  in  drills  12  to  15  in.  apart  and  about  ^ 
in.  deep.  Thin  the  seedlings  to  3  in.  It  is  very  hardy,  and  with  a  light 
mulching  of  hay,  may  be  had  after  other  salad  plants  are  gone. 

Cress,  the  refreshing,  pungent  little  salad  or  garnishing  plant,  some- 
times called  Pepper  Grass,  may  be  easily  grown  throughout  the  season. 
Successive  sowings  should  be  made,  as  it  quickly  runs  to  seed.  For  a  contin- 
uous supply,  make  small  plantings  every  two  weeks  in  rows  12  in.  apart, 
covering  the  seeds  ^  in.  deep. 


CUCUMBERS 

For  Cucumbers  a  light,  warm  soil  is  preferable,  but  they  will  succeed 
in  almost  any  garden  soil,  provided  there  is  good  drainage.  When  all 
danger  of  frost  is  past  sow  the  seed  about  3^  in.  deep  in  hills  4  ft.  apart 
each  way.  Much  earlier  crops  and  better  results  may  be  had,  by  starting 
the  plants  in  paper  pots  in  coldframes  as  recommended  for  Sweet  Corn. 
It  is  well,  however,  to  use  larger  pots — say,  4  in.  square.  Fill  each  about 
half  full  with  a  compost  of  light  soil  and  old,  thoroughly  rotted  manure. 
Thin  out  to  three  or  four  plants,  and  after  they  have  been  set  out  long 

enough  to  become 
established,  thin  to 
two  plants  to  a 
hill.  Keep  the  soil 
between  the  plants 
well  cultivated 
until  the  vines  cover 
it.  In  setting  out 
started  plants  the 
hills  or  rows  should 
be  enriched  with 
Emerald  Cucumber  well  rotted  manure 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 


197 


or  guano  or  blood  and  bone,  the  same  as 
when  planting  seeds,  A  method  of  insuring 
a  good  standing  from  seed  is  to  soak  half 
of  the  seed  you  have  to  plant  over  night 
in  warm  water,  dry  it  oft  in  fine  dust  or 
land  plaster,  and  mix  with  the  rest,  plant 
ing  two  together,  covering  some  prefer- 
ably a  little  deeper  than  others.  The  ad- 
vantage of  this  is  that  whatever  the  con- 
ditions that  follow  planting  may  be, 
enough  of  the  seeds  to  make  a  good  stand 
are  pretty  certain  to  come  through.  If  the 
vines  are  wanted  to  continue  bearing  for  a 
long  time,  pick' off  fruits  as  they  mature, 
whether  they  are  needed  or  not.  For  late 
use  and  for  pickling,  a  second  planting 
may  be  made  the  latter  part  of  June. 

The  greatest  difficulty  in  succeed- 
ing with  Cucumbers  and  other  curcubits 
or  vine  crops,  is  to  protect  them  from  the 
striped  yellow  beetle,  the  Melon  louse  and 
the    black    wilt.     In   order    to    make    sure 


Egg  Plant 


of  a  crop  give  a  general 
purpose  spraying  every  ten  days  or  two  weeks,  using  a  soapy-nicotine 
spray.  As  it  is  essential  to  cover  the  under  side  of  the  leaves  as  well  as  the 
surface,  an  angle  nozzle  should  be  used  and  a  sprayer  sufficiently  strong  to 
produce  a  good  mist  spray.  Where  such  a  sprayer  is  not  available,  dry 
spraying  or  dusting  may  be  substituted,  keeping  the  plants  well  covered 
from  early  growth. 


EGG  PLANT 

The  Egg  Plant  is  another  vegetable  which  revels  in  the  richest  soil 
and  an  abundance  of  moisture.  General  culture  is  the  same  as  that 
recommended  for  Tomatoes,  except  that  the  plants  do  not  have  to  be  staked 
up  or  pruned.  The  plants  should  be  grown  in  pots  and  for  best  results 
repotted  once  or  twice  so  that  they  are  in  three  and  a  half  or  fours  when  set 
outdoors,  which  should  not  be  until  after  Tomatoes  are  planted.  If  the 
hotbed  or  coldframe  is  used  for  propagation,  sow  the  seed  one-half  inch 
deep  and  transplant  once  or  twice  before  transferring  the  plants  to  their 
permanent  place  in  the  garden.  Set  the  plants  2  ft.  apart  in  rows  23^  to 
3  ft,  apart.  The  most  dangerous  enemy  to  be  encountered  in  growing 
Egg  Plants  is  the  striped  Potato  bug.  Arsenate  of  lead  paste  may  be  used, 
but  if  a  few  plants  are  grown,  hand  picking  (knocking  the  beetles  off  with  a 
small  stick  or  paddle  into  a  pan  half  full  of  kerosene  and  water)  will  prove 
effective  and  will  give  little  trouble,  as  the  beetles  are  killed  before  they  eat. 


ENDIVE— HORSE  RADISH 

Endive  is  another  salad  grown  mostly  for  Fall  use.  Sow  the  same  as 
Lettuce  in  June  or  July,  and  thin  to  about  12  in.  It  requires  blanching 
to  be  ready  for  use.     The  individual  heads  may  be  tied  up  loosely  with 


198 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Kohl.Rabi,  White  Vienna 


raffia,  or  two  6-  or  8-in.  boards 
temporarily  nailed  together  in  an 
inverted  V  shape  may  be  placed 
over  the  row,  blanching  a  section 
at  a  time.  Do  not  work  crop  when 
the  leaves  are  wet. 

While  only  a  small  quantity  of 
Horse  Radish  may  be  needed  for 
home  use,  a  few  plants  may  be 
grown  as  easily  as  not.  Instead  of 
seeds,  sets  or  small  pieces  of  roots 
are  planted.  They  are  perfectly 
hardy,  and  can  be  taken  up  in 
Fall  or  early  Spring,  just  as 
wanted.  Two  dozen  roots  will 
give  an  ample  supply  for  a  small 
family.  Its  chief  cultural  require- 
ments are  plenty  of  moisture  and 
a  deep,  rich  soil.  Set  plants  12 
to  15  in.  apart  in  rows  24  to  30 
in.  apart. 


KALE— KOHL-RABI— LEEKS 

Kale  or  Borecole  is  a  vegetable  which  may  be  described  as  a  loose-leaf 
Cabbage.  It  is  cooked  as  greens.  It  is  improved  by  frost  and  it  is  so  hardy 
it  may  be  had  from  outdoors  in  the  garden  when  all  other  greens  have  long 
since  perished.  It  is  given  about  the  same  treatment  as  late  Cabbage. 
Sow  seed  3^  in.  deep  in  rows  2  ft.  apart  and  thin  to  18  to  24  in.  apart  in 
the  row.  Only  extra  hardy  varieties  may  be  sown  in  September  and  win- 
tered over,  like  Winter  Spinach. 

Kohl-Rabi,  a  comparatively  little  used  vegetable,  is  very  easily  grown, 
and  if  cooked  before  the  roots  or  bulbs  get  too  large,  is  very  good.  Sow  in 
drills  18  to  24  in.  apart.  Cover  the  seed  Y2  in.  deep  and  thin  the  young 
plants  to  6  to  8  in.  For  an  extra  early  crop  it  may  easily  be  started  under 
glass  and  transplanted.  To  have  it  for  use  throughout  the  season,  sow 
succession  crops,  as  for  Turnips.  Kohl-Rabi  flourishes  best  in  the  Spring, 
early  Summer  and  Fall. 

The  Leek,  to  obtain  full  development,  requires  a  long  season  of  growth. 
Sow  in  drills  18  in.  apart,  covering  the  seed  Y2  in.  deep.  Thin  the  plants  to 
stand  4  in.  apart.  Leeks  transplant  readily,  and  seedlings  started  in  the 
hotbed  or  coldframe  in  April  or  early  May  may  be  transplanted  in  June, 
preferably  to  drills  which  have  been  enriched  with  old  manure  or  the  start- 
ing mixture.  The  lower  portion  of  the  stem  should  be  blanched  for  use 
like  Celery.  This  may  be  done  by  keeping  the  earth  drawn  up  to  it,  or  the 
plants  may  be  taken  up  and  stored  in  a  trench  hke  late  Celery.  They  are 
very  hardy  and  the  flavor  is  greatly  improved  by  freezing. 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 


199 


LETTUCE 

While  Lettuce  can  be  grown  from  early  Spring  until  late  in  the  season 
(and  with  the  use  of  frames  the  year  around) ,  success  with  it  will  depend 
very  largely  upon  using  the  right  type  for  the  particular  season  or  condi- 
tions under  which  each  successive  crop  is  to  be  grown.  The  number  of 
varieties  in  general  culture  is  so  great  that  it  is  rather  confusing,  but  if 
the  gardener  gets  the  several  distinct  types  fixed  in  his  mind ,  he  can  make 
his  selection  intelligently.  All  varieties  can  be  classed  in  general  in  two 
groups:  the  loose-leaf  and  the  headed.  The  former  are  the  easier  to  grow, 
but  as  a  general  rule,  the  latter  are  considered  of  better  quality,  although 
that  is  mostly  a  matter  of  taste.  The  loose-leaf  type  is  suitable  for  growing 
under  glass,  being  for  this  purpose  much  less  subject  to  the  dreaded  rot, 
which  quickly  destroys  head  lettuce  under  glass,  and  also  for  growing  out- 
doors in  Spring,  early  Summer  and  Fall.  With  irrigation  it  can  be  grown 
easily  throughout  the  Summer  months,  but  in  dry  weather  runs  quickly  to 
seed.  The  head  types  of  Lettuce  may  be  considered  in  three  sections: 
the  butter  head,  the  cabbage  head  and  the  tub.  Of  these,  the  loose-leaf 
is  suitable  for  Spring  and  Fall  use.  The  hard  or  crisp  heading  sorts  take 
longer  to  mature  but  form  heads  which  resist  the  heat  and  are  slower  to 
run  to  seed,  and  are  good  for  mid-Summer  growth;  they  are  not  suitable  for 
forcing.  The  Cos  type,  most  varieties  of  which  have  to  be  tied  up  to  blanch 
thoroughly,  is  quite  distinct  in  appearance  and  flavor  from  the  other  types, 
but  is  easily  grown  and  should  be  given  a  place  in  most  gardens,  even  in 
small  gardens,  for  variety.  It  is  suitable  for  use  during  mid-Summer  and 
early  Fall.  To  be  of  the  best  quality  Lettuce  must  be  quickly  grown.  It 
requires  an  abundance  of  moisture  and  a  high  percentage  of  available 
nitrogen  in  the  fertihzer  or  manure.  Well-rotted  horse  manure  is  particu- 
larly adapted  to  the  growing  of  this  crop.  The  best  method  of  growing 
Lettuce  in  the  garden  for  ordinary  family  use  is  to  sow  the  seed  thinly 
3^8  to  3^  in.  deep  in  rows  12  to  15  in.  apart.  A  mistake  often  made  in  sowing 
the  seed  in  drills  in  the 
open  is  to  let  the  plants 
stand  too  thickly .  Thin  them 
out  as  soon  as  they  are  well 
started  to  6  or  8  in.  in  the 
row,  or  even  more  in  rich  soil 
under  irrigation.  To  have  a 
succession  of  props  around  the 
year  start  plants  in  January 
or  February  for  setting  out 
into  the  frames,  and  make 
a  small  sowing  every  two 
weeks  or  so  thereafter,  chang- 
ing the  type  you  use  accord- 
ing to  the  changing  seasons. 
Partial  shading  during 
the  hot  Summer  months 
will  help  to  improve  the 
quality  of  the  Lettuce.  Tender  Lettuce 


soo 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


MELONS 

Melons  are  delicious  in  the  hot  Sum- 
mer days,  and  quite  easy  to  grow.  Make 
a  little  mound  about  2  ft.  in  diameter, 
slightly  above  the  surrounding  ground 
and,  in  its  center,  plant  four  or  five  seeds, 
about  6  in,  apart  and  2  in.  deep.  Two 
seeds  may  be  put  in  each  hole,  but  finally 
thin  out  to  four  plants  on  each  hiU.  When 
these  have  made  growth,  about  2  ft.  long, 
pinch  out  the  top.  This  wiU  accelerate 
lateral  growth,  and  on  these  you  will  soon 
see  the  young  female  or  fruit  blossoms, 
which  develop  with  amazing  rapidity. 
A  piece  of  glass,  slate  or  shingle 
put  under  each  fruit  will  keep  them 
off  the  ground  and  assist  in  hastening  the  maturity  of  fine,  well- 
netted  specimens.  When  the  fruit  will  leave  the  vine  without  being  forced, 
it  is  ripe  and  ready  for  the  table.  In  northern  locations  where  the  seasons 
are  short,  it  is  always  a  good  plan  to  start  at  least  part  of  the  crop  early  in 
paper  pots  or  in  frames.  Heavy  soil  should  be  avoided,  if  possible.  If  it 
must  be  used,  add  plenty  of  sand  and  leaf  mold  to  the  soil  in  the  hill  when 
preparing  it,  and  raise  the  hill  slightly;  keep  it  flat  but  bring  it  a  couple 
of  inches  above  the  ground  level.  Should  any  fungous  diseases  develop  a 
spraying  with  arsenate  of  lead  will  usually  be  effective.  Among  good 
varieties  are  Honey  Dew,  Rocky  Ford,  Emerald  Gem,  Hackensack;  but 
there  are  many  others.  Sometimes  a  local  variety  is  the  very  best  to  plant; 
watch  your  neighbors  and  adopt  any  variety  which  shows  improvement, 
or  some  special  worthy  feature.  Never  plant  Melons  near  Cucumbers, 
Gourds  or  Squash,  as  they  cross-fertilize  and  become  worthless. 


Muskmelon 


MUSHROOMS 

This  crop  is  of  such  a  character  that  unless  one  has  patience  and  a 
good  deal  of  time  and  attention  to  bestow  upon  it,  its  cultivation  had  better 
not  be  attempted.  A  hberal  quantity  of  stable  manure  is  necessary.  This 
has  to  be  collected,  the  long  strawy  material  removed,  the  heap  fermented, 
and  then  the  whole  trodden  firmly  into  a  box,  case,  frame  or  bed  in  a  dark, 
moist  cellar,  or  under  the  benches  of  a  greenhouse.  Dryness  is  deadly. 
The  bed  must  be  kept  moist  and  warm,  and  the  air  of  the  place  where  the 
beds  are  should  be  moist;  at  any  rate  not  dry.  The  temperature  should  be 
55  deg.  to  60  deg.  or  70  deg.  in  warm  weather. 

Spawn,  in  the  form  of  dry  cakes  a  foot  or  so  square,  can  be  got  from 
the  seedsman.  He  can  also  explain  the  general  methods  of  cultivation  or 
one  of  a  number  of  excellent  books  or  Experiment  Station  publications  can 
be  consulted .  The  cake  is  broken  into  pieces  an  inch  square  and  these  are 
buried  in  the  hotbed,  which  should  be  12  in.  to  18  in.  deep.  The  heat  in 
the  bed  should  have  receded  to  80  deg.  Then  place  a  layer  of  4  in.  of  soil 
over  the  bed  and  beat  this  level.  Whenever  it  gets  dry,  or  before  it  gets 
dry,  water  with  tepid  water.  In  five  to  ten  weeks  the  mushrooms  should 
appear.  Sometimes  the  surface  of  the  bed  is  covered  with  straw.  Beds 
can  be  made  out  of  doors  early  in  April. 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 


201 


MUSTARD— OKRA 

The  leaves  of  the  newer,  larger  growing  varieties  of  Mustard  can  be 
used  either  as  a  salad  or  as  greens,  some  of  which  attain  a  foot  or  more  in 
height.  Three  or  four  crops  may  be  sown  during  the  season  to  supply  a 
succession.  Those  planted  in  Summer  or  early  Fall  will  usually  give  the' 
best  results.  Sow  thinly  in  drills  15  or  18  in.  apart,  and  cover  the  seed  3^ 
in.  deep.    Thin  out  and  cultivate  as  you  would  Lettuce. 

Okra  may  be  grown  easily  if  a  rich  soil  and  a  sunny  position  are  pro- 
vided. It  is  very  tender  and  should  not  be  planted  until  the  ground  is 
thoroughly  warm.  The  rows  should  be  from  2  to  3  ft.  apart.  Sow  the  seed 
one  inch  deep  and  thin  the  plants  to  18  in.  or  more,  to  give  room  for  ample 
development.  The  pods  should  be  used  while  they  are  still  young  and 
tender. 


ONIONS 

Onions  are  used  in  all  stages  of  development,  from  seedlings  as  big  as 
a  pencil,  eaten  raw,  to  the  mature,  dried  bulb.  They  may  be  grown  from 
seed,  from  prickers  (seedhngs  started  under  glass  and  set  out  later  in  the 
garden),  sets  (which  are  very  small  bulbs  of  standard  varieties,  grown 
small  especially  for  this  purpose),  or  from  the  perennial  multiplier,  the 
Potato  or  Egyptian  Onion.  The  last  three  propagate  themselves  by  multi- 
plying, either  at  the  roots  or  at  the  top  of  the  seed  stalks,  the  cluster  of 
bulblets  being  divided  up  and  set  out  for  the  following  crop.  They  may  be 
planted  either  in  early  Spring  or  in  late  Fall. 

Onions  from  seed  yield  very  heavily  in  rich  soil,  but  the  preparation 
of  the  seed-bed  must  be  of  the  best  as  the  seed  is  fine.  Sow  3^  in.  deep  in 
drills  1  ft.  apart  and  cover  firmly;  eight  to 
twelve  seeds  are  drilled  in  to  the  inch  of  row. 
Thin  to  2  or  3  in.  The  young  onions  thus 
pulled  out  are  most  appetizing  eaten  raw 
with  a  dip  of  salt.  In  addition  to  rich  and 
very  thoroughly  prepared  soil,  the  most 
important  thing  in  growing  Onion  seed  is 
to  keep  ahead  of  the  weeds.  The  plants 
when  they  first  come  up  are  very  small,  not 
much  bigger  than  blades  of  grass,  and  the 
whole  crop  may  very  easily  be  lost  through 
neglect  in  this  regard.  Go  through  it  with 
the  wheel  hoe  and  also  by  hand  within  a 
week  or  ten  days  after  they  break  ground. 
Continued  clean  culture  and  occa- 
sional Ught  appHcations  of  nitrate  of  soda 
will  keep  the  crop  developing  vigorously 
till  mid-Summer.     Lime  in  the  soil  and  .   ^. 

soot  sprinkled  along  the  rows  will  tend  to  On.ons  are  indispensable 

mitigate  the  damage  done  by  the  Onion  ^owf  make";'  dandyTreak! 

maggot.  Ihe  most  certam  remedy  for  the  fast  relish 


202  GARDEN  GUIDE 

maggot,  however,  is  a  poison  spray  or  bait  for  the  flies,  which  can  be  applied 
only  with  a  strong  pressure  sprayer.  When  the  plants  get  too  large  to  go 
through  them  with  the  wheel  hoe,  the  slide  or  scuffle  hoe  should  be  used, 
the  kind  with  guides  or  runners  in  front  of  the  blades,  which  hold  it  at  an 
even  depth,  making  the  work  easier  and  lessening  the  danger  of  injury  to 
the  bulbs.  As  soon  as  the  tops  die  down  the  bulbs  should  be  puUed  and 
laid  in  windrows,  and  raked  over  every  day  or  two  until  thoroughly  dried; 
then  they  may  be  taken  and  the  tops  cut  off",  and  spread  out  on  a  floor,  or  in 
an  open  shed,  or  packed  in  slatted  Onion  crates,  which  hold  about  a  bushel 
apiece,  to  dry  off  thoroughly  before  being  packed  away  for  the  Winter. 

For  transplanting,  to  get  large  bulbs,  the  seeds  should  be  started  under 
glass  in  February  or  early  March,  and  transplanted  in  April  or  early  May, 
setting  the  plants  about  3  in.  apart.  Seed  should  be  sown  very  thinly  in 
flats,  with  rows  3  or  4  in.  apart.  Keep  them  as  near  the  glass  as  possible, 
and  transfer  them  to  the  coldframes  as  soon  as  it  is  safe,  so  as  to  get 
hardy,  stocky  plants.  In  transplanting  the  roots  are  trimmed  back  to 
within  three-quarters  of  an  inch  or  so,  and  half  of  the  tops  removed,  when 
they  can  be  handled  readily,  and  practically  none  will  drop  out  if  the  work 
is  properly  done.  Sets  planted  early  in  the  Spring  by  pushing  the  bulbs 
down  into  ground  until  they  are  slightly  covered  will  make  a  quick  growth 
and  give  Onions  ready  for  use  before  those  from  "prickers"  or  seed  sown  in 
the  open.    Rich  soil  and  two  or  three  hoeings  is  all  that  wiU  be  required. 


PARSLEY—PARSNIPS 

For  Summer  use  sow  Parsley  seed  ^  to  3^  in.  deep  in  rows  12  to  18  in. 
apart  early  in  Spring,  first  soaking  it  thoroughly  a  day  or  two,  for  it  is  very 
slow  to  germinate.  Thin  the  plants  to  3  to  6  in,  apart  when  they  are  well 
started.  Give  plenty  of  water  to  keep  the  growth  succulent  and  tender. 
For  Winter  use  sow  a  packet  of  seed  in  late  July  or  August,  and  when  the 
Uttle  plants  have  become  well  established,  transplant  to  pots  or  a  small 
box,  or  to  a  coldframe.  A  flat  of  Parsley  in  a  sunny  kitchen  window  wiU 
furnish  garnishing  throughout  the  Winter.  Fresh  sowings  of  Parsley  should 
be  made  each  Spring,  as  it  runs  to  seed  the  second  year. 

Parsnips  are  easily  grown,  but  to  produce  long,  smooth  roots  requires 
deep,  rich  soil.    Another  essential  is  to  get  them  sown  very  early  in  the 

Spring,  as  the 
longer  the  season 
the  better  the 
crop  resulting,  as 
a  rule.  Sow  the 
seed  in  drills  18 
in .  apart ,  covering 
Yi  in.  Thinning 
to  3  to  4  in.  apart 
in  the  row  should 
be     done     early, 

____^____ as  the  long  roots 

Hollow  Crown  Parsnips  and  side  branches 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 


203 


Note  nine  (9)  Peas  in  pod .  It  does 
not   pay  to  grow  inferior  sorts 


get  tangled  together,  and  those  that  are 
left  are  apt  to  be  seriously  injured  by  the 
process  of  thinning  if  it  is  not  promptly 
attended  to.  They  wiU  be  ready  for  use 
in  the  Fall  and  can  be  used  from  the 
ground  until  freezing  weather,  when 
enough  to  last  through  the  Winter  should 
be  stored,  the  remainder  being  left  in  the 
ground  for  Spring. 

PEAS 

Peas  from  any  one  planting  will  re- 
main in  the  best  of  condition  for  use 
only  for  a  comp£u*atively  short  time.  To 
have  a  constant  supply  throughout  the 
season,  a  succession  of  plantings  should 
be  made.  Under  irrigation  they  can  be 
had  from  early  June  until  frost,  other- 
wise dry  weather  is  pretty  sure  to  cause 
a  failure  of  the  crop  during  late  July  and 
August,  so  that  it  does  not  pay  to  plant 
after  late  May  until  the  latter  part 
of  July. 

The  dwarf  varieties  do  not  bear  as  heavily  nor  for  as  long  a  period  as 
the  climbing  sorts,  but  for  small  gardens  they  have  the  advantage  that  they 
are  economical  in  space  and  do  not  require  support  and  consequently  are 
grown  exclusively  by  many  home  gardeners.  One  or  two  good  dwarf  sorts 
sown  every  ten  days  or  two  weeks  will  maintain  a  supply.  If  the  tall 
varieties  are  used,  each  planting  will  bear  for  two  to  three  weeks,  so  that 
fewer  plantings  are  required  to  maintain  the  succession. 

The  smooth,  extra  hardy  varieties  may  be  planted  as  early  in  the  Spring 
as  the  ground  may  be  worked.  The  others,  however,  should  not  be  put  in 
until  a  week  or  two  later.  If  the  soil  is  wet  and  somewhat  heavy,  make 
early  plantings  near  the  surface.  If  well  dried  out,  they  may  be  planted  at 
the  bottom  of  a  trench  4  or  5  in.  deep,  and  covered  only  1  to  2  in.  deep  at 
first,  being  filled  in  as  the  plants  grow.  Get  the  roots  well  below  the  surface 
so  that  they  do  not  feel  so  quickly  the  effects  of  dry  weather.  The  rows  for 
dwarf  Peas  should  be  3  ft.  apart  and  for  the  tall  sorts  4  ft.  In  small  gardens 
Peas  are  often  grown  in  double  rows  with  a  6-in.  space  between.  Do  not 
allow  Pea  vines  to  he  on  the  ground .  Tall  varieties  can  be  effectively  staked 
up  by  brush  or  poultry  netting,  while  the  dwarf-growing  sorts  give  better 
results  when  provided  with  low  brush  to  chmb  upon.  A  good,  clean  culture 
and  protection  with  kerosene  emulsion  or  nicotine  spray  (if  the  Pea  louse 
puts  in  an  appearance)  and  getting  the  brush  or  trellis  in  as  soon  as  the 
plants  break  ground  (in  the  case  of  the  tall  or  chmbing  varieties)  are  the 
main  points  in  achieving  success  with  this  crop. 


PEPPERS 

The  instructions  given  for  Egg  Plants  apply  aiso  to  Peppers.  Be  sure, 
however,  to  choose  a  variety  or  type  suitable  and  adapted  to  your  condi- 
tions and  purposes.    In  the  Northern  States,  it  is  well  to  stick  to  the  earher 


204 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


sorts,  unless  you  grow  your  own  plants  and  can  have  extra  large  ones  ready 
for  setting  out.  The  small,  pungent  varieties  are  grown  for  pickUng  and 
flavoring,  and  the  large,  mild  ones  for  stuffed  Peppers  and  other  table  dishes. 


POTATOES 

Of  all  field  and  garden  products  the  Potato  is  the  most  valuable.  On 
the  menu  of  at  least  one  meal  every  day  in  the  year  the  humble  Spud  appears 
as  the  leading  vegetable. 

In  preparing  seed  Potatoes 
for  planting,  much  attention 
should  be  paid  to  the  eyes  or 
buds,  these  being  the  vegetative 
parts  of  the  tuber.  They  are 
clustered  mainly  at  the  flower  or 
seed  end.  The  other  end,  called 
the  stem  end,  usuaUy  has  only 
one  or  two  ey^s.  A  test  of  the 
producing  capacity  of  the  eyes, 
carried  out  by  the  Monmouth 
County  (N.  J.)  Farm  Demon- 
stration Office,  showed  that,  cal- 
culated on  the  acre  basis,  the 
flower  or  seed  ends  had  an  ad- 
vantage in  yield  of  eighty  per 
cent,  over  the  stem  ends,  and 
twenty  per  cent,  over  the  middle 
eyes,  while  the  latter  produced 
fifty  per  cent,  more  than  the 
stem  ends.  It  is  advisable  then, 
for  the  home  garden,  to  reject 
the  stem  ends  unless  you  have 
ample  room.  In  case  they  are 
used,  a  good  eye  from  the 
middle  of  the  tuber  should  be 
included  in  the  piece  to  be 
planted.  Too  many  eyes  make 
for  foliage,  but  not  for  Potatoes. 

The  Potato  should  be  cut  so  that  two  strong  eyes  are  left  on  each 
piece.  Penetrate  as  deeply  into  the  tuber  as  possible,  as  the  plant  in  its 
early  stages  of  development  depends  largely  upon  the  mother  Potato  for 
its  sustenance.  Some  gardeners  favor  the  use  of  small  whole  Potatoes  for 
seeds,  but  those  of  medium  size,  cut  to  two  good  eyes,  are  generaUy  pre- 
ferred .  The  blossom  ends  are  the  first  to  start  growth  and  yield  the  earliest 
crop. 

To  get  extra  early  results  select  clean,  medium  sized  Potatoes  of  an 
early  variety,  and  cut  in. quarters  or  halves,  pushing  the  pieces  down  into 
a  flat  of  sand  till  they  are  nearly  covered  and  as  close  together  as  they 
will  go.  If  these  are  kept  in  a  sunny  place,  protected  from  frost  and 
watered,  the  roots  wiU  make  a  vigorous  growth,  while  the  tops  will  remain 
very  short  and  stocky,  so  they  will  be  only  2  to  4  in.  in  length  when  they 


Making  provision  for  Winter 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 


205 


are  ready  to  set  out.    An  astonishing  growth  will  result  during  the  first  two 
or  three  weeks. 

A  well-enriched  sandy  loam  is  best  suited  to  the  raising  of  Potatoes, 
though  they  may  be  successfully  grown  in  any  good,  well-drained  garden 
soil.  Prepare  the  ground  iii  the  same  way  as  for  general  crops.  Planting 
should  begin  as  early  in  the  Spring  as  the  ground  can  be  worked.  Late 
or  main  crop  Potatoes  are  planted  in  May  or  early  June.  The  row  or  trench 
method  is  decidedly  the  best  and  most  economical  for  the  ordinary  home 
garden.  Dig  a  trench  5  to  7  in.  deep.  Apply  a  good  dressing  of  well-rotted 
stable  manure  or  fertilizer.  Cover  with  two  inches  of  soil,  upon  which  set 
the  seed  Potatoes  12  to  15  in.  apart.  Then  finally  cover  with  soil  to  a  depth 
of  3  to  4  in .  The  distance  between  the  rows  should  be  2  3^2  to  3  ft .  Work  up 
the  soil  about  the  plants  when  they  have  made  a  good  growth.  To  keep  the 
ground  clear  of  weeds  and  at  the  same  time  conserve  the  moisture,  cultiva- 
tion should  be  maintained  throughout  the  growing  season.  The  hand  hoe 
is  the  most  convenient  tool  to  use  in  this  operation. 

When  the  vines  die  off  the  Potatoes  are  ready  for  harvesting,  which 
should  be  done  in  fine,  dry  weather,  and  completed  before  the  advent  of 
frost  or  very  cold  weather.  Cold  rains  cause  Potatoes  to  become  sodden  and 
of  inferior  quality.  Potatoes  soon  become  green  and  unsuitable  for  table 
use  if  they  are  allowed  to  lie  exposed  to  the  sun  after  digging.  Store 
them  in  a  darkened,  dry,  well- ventilated,  frost-proof  cellar  that  has  a 
relatively  low  and  even  temperature. 

To  make  sure  of  success  it  will  be  necessary  to  protect  the  Potato  plants 
from  early  and  late  bhght  and  the  Colorado  beetle,  known  as  the  Potato 
bug.  Saving  the  vines 
means  saving  the  Pota- 
toes. Every  ten  days 
or  two  weeks  after  the 
foliage  has  well  devel- 
oped, spray  with  Paris 
Green  or  Bordeaux  mix- 
ture, to  which  arsenate 
of  lead  has  been  added; 
this  combination  spray, 
while  combating  insect 
pests,  is  effective  as 
a  preventive  of  disease. 
Careful  watch  must  be 
kept  for  all  insect  troub- 
les, and  particularly 
for  the  aphis,  which,  un- 
checked, will  ruin  a  crop 
in  less  than  a  week. 
Use  a  nicotine  solution 
for  aphis.  Consult  also 
Insect  Chapter. 


Potato  tuber,  considerably  reduced 

S,  stem  end,  or  end  to  which  it  was  attached  to  the 
parent  plant  the  previous  season.  F,  the  so-called 
flowering  or  growing  end ;  here  there  are  usually  too 
many  buds  or  eyes — several  of  these  had  better  be 
scooped  out  before  planting.  The  lines  show  how  this 
particular  tuber  may  be  cut  up  for  planting,  but  the 
eyes  vary  in  each  and  every  tuber 


206 


GARDEN  GUIDE 
PUMPKINS 


A  few  hills  of  sugar  Pumpkins,  planted  in  the  Sweet  Corn,  among  pole 
Beans  or  along  the  edge  of  the  garden,  where  they  can  run  over  the  grass 
or  trained  over  bush,  etc. ,  will  give  plenty  of  material  for  a  number  of  pies. 
The  culture  is  the  same  as  that  recommended  for  Winter  Squashes,  running 
varieties,  except  that  they  mature  more  quickly,  and  can,  therefore,  be 
planted  later.  Avoid  planting  Pumpkins  near  Melons,  Squashes  and 
Cucumbers,  as  they  are  liable  to  cross-fertilize  and  produce  inferior  fruit. 

RADISHES 

These  are  easily  grown  in  almost  any  soil,  but  for  the  best  quality 
the  soil  should  be  rather  sandy,  and  a  good  coating  of  land  plaster  or  gypsum 
incorporated  with  it  before  seed  is  sown.  Avoid  manures  and  fertilizers 
rich  in  nitrogen,  as  these  are  apt  to  cause  misshapen  roots  and  too  great 
leaf  growth  in  proportion.  Sow  broadcast  or  in  drills  8  to  12  inches  apart 
and  cover  Yi  in.  deep;  thin  to  1  to  2  in.  Two  mistakes  most  often  made  in 
growing  Radishes  are  to  sow  too  many  at  a  time  and  not  to  thin  them 
epough  or  early  enough  to  have  them  sufficiently  far  apart  in  the  row. 
Give  each  plant  room  to  develop.  Radishes  are  easily  raised  under  glass, 
requiring  only  40  to  45  degrees  temperature.  The  quick  maturing  kinds 
may  be  sown  between  rows  of  Carrots,  Lettuce  or  Beets  and  gathered  before 
the  latter  need  all  the  room.  A  succession  of  roots  in  the  best  of  condition, 
under  glass  or  outside,  may  be  had  by  sowing  every  ten  days  or  two  weeks. 


RHUBARB 

One  of  the  most  valuable  of  our 
garden  products,  requires  a  minimum  of 
care  for  a  maximum  of  yield. 

Six  to  a  dozen  plants  will  supply 
a  medium  sized  family.  The  soil 
should  be  made  very  rich  and  dug 
as  deep  as  possible.  Crowns  taken  from 
old  established  clumps  are  usually  used 
for  planting.  Put  them  3  to  4  ft.  apart 
each  way.  The  crowns  themselves  should 
be  planted  quite  shallow,  being  covered 
with  about  4  in.  of  soil.  Plants  set  out 
in  the  Spring  will  bear  quite  abundantly 
the  following  season;  or  young  plants 
sown  from  seed  in  the  Spring,  and  trans- 
planted in  June  to  temporary  rows  in 
the  garden,  may  be  set  out  the  follow- 
ing   Spring     in    their     permanent   place. 


Scarlet  Globe  Radish 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN  207 

which  should  be,  if  possible,  a  sheltered  spot,  where  they  will  not  interfere 
with  the  cultivation  of  other  things.  In  the  seed  bed  the  rows  should  be 
one  foot  apart  and  the  seed  sown  J^  to  1  in.  deep,  the  seedlings  being 
thinned  out  to  10  to  12  in.  Rhubarb,  like  Asparagus,  stores  much  of  its 
early  Spring  plant  food  in  the  thick  root  stalks  over  Winter.  Therefore, 
manuring  or  fertilizing  in  the  Fall  wiU  help  the  following  crop.  Dressings 
of  nitrate  of  soda  in  Spring  also  produce  splendid  results,  but  be  careful  to 
keep  it  off  the  leaves.  To  bring  one  or  two  stools  into  early  bearing,  cover 
at  opening  of  Spring  with  4  or  5  in.  manure.  Set  anything  around  the 
plants  which  wiU  keep  the  heat  in;  a  melon  frame  is  ideal.  Do  not  neglect  to 
remove  all  seed-bearing  stalks  as  quickly  as  they  form. 

RUTA  BAGA— SALSIFY— SEA  KALE 

Rutabaga,  the  Swedish  or  Russian  Turnips,  differ  from  the  ordinary 
kind  in  that  they  grow  much  larger  and  have  a  longer  season  in  which  to 
mature  properly.  They  should  be  sown  early  in  July,  in  drills  18  to  24  in. 
apart  with  a  covering  of  3^  to  1  in.  As  the  ground  is  frequently  dry  at  this 
time,  firm  the  seed  well  in,  pressing  the  soil  over  the  row  with  the  back  of  a 
hoe  or  with  the  sole  of  the  foot.  Thin  out  to  6  in.  or  more  apart,  according 
to  size  of  the  variety  grown  and  the  richness  of  the  soil. 

Salsify,  or  Vegetable  Oyster,  has  a  very  decided  flavor  from  which  it 
gets  its  common  name.  Unless  you  have  used  it  and  know  you  like  it, 
plant  only  a  small  quantity.  Its  culture  is  easy  as  it  is  free  from  injury  by 
either  insects  or  disease.  The  only  trouble  in  growing  it  is  that  it  tends  to 
become  undesirably  forked.  If  possible,  plant  only  on  soil  manured  the 
previous  season,  and  avoid  fertilizers  that  are  rich  in  nitrogen.  It  requires 
about  the  same  season  of  growth  and  about  the  same  general  culture  as 
Parsnips,  but  the  rows  may  be  put  nearer  together  as  the  fohage  is  not  so 
large. 

Sea  Kale,  which  shares  with  Rhubarb  and  Asparagus  the  great  advan- 
tage of  being  a  perennial  plant,  yielding  year  after  year,  may  be  grown  easily 
from  seed  or  from  sets — pieces  of  the  roots  such  as  are  used  in  planting 
Horse  Radish.  To  grow  from  seed  sow  in  April  3^  to  1  in.  deep  in  drills 
15  in.  apart;  thin  out  to  6  in.  Plant  early  the  following  season  as  you  would 
Rhubarb,  except  that  3  ft.  will  be  far  enough  apart  between  the  plants. 
The  Spring  growth  must  be  blanched  for  use.  This  is  accompUshed  by 
shovehng  around  the  crown  of  each  plant  in  the  FaU  a  peck  or  so  of  clean 
sand,  and  then  throwing  up  over  this,  soil  from  between  the  rows.  This 
banking  up  is  left  in  place  until  after  the  Spring  growth  has  started;  then 
the  soil  is  hoed  or  shoveled  away,  the  ground  enriched  with  bone  and  ma- 
nure, and  cultivated  occasionally  during  the  rest  of  the  season,  or  the  plants 
when  grown  may  betaken  up  and  forced  in  frames,  hotbeds,  or  the  green- 
house. In  this  case  they  are  handled  in  much  the  same  way  as  Witloof 
Chicory. 

SPINACH— SQUASH 

As  with  Lettuce  and  some  other  crops,  success  with  Spinach  depends 
largely  on  choosing  a  variety  suitable  for  the  season  for  which  it  is  wanted. 
For  Spring  use  Winter  Spinach  is  sown  the  previous  Fall  and  carried  over 
with  a  mulching  of  hay,  straw  or  dried  litter.    In  Spring  two  or  three  suc- 

(jContinued  on  page  210) 


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210  GARDEN  GUIDE 

cession  plantings  can  be  made  to  maintain  the  supply  until  Summer.  Sow 
about  Y2  in.  deep  in  rows  12  to  18  in.  apart,  and  thin  to  4  in. 

New  Zealand  Spinach  is  a  distinct  type,  its  greatest  charm  being  the 
fact  that  it  resists  heat  and  grows  luxuriantly  during  hot  weather.  It  is  of 
branching  habit,  spreading  3  or  4  ft.,  and  thrives  in  any  good  garden  soil. 
The  seed  is  very  hard  and  should  be  soaked  in  tepid  water  for  several  hours 
to  aid  germination.  When  the  ground  has  become  warm  in  IVIay,  sow  in 
rows  about  3  ft.  apart,  covering  the  seed  one  inch  and  thinning  to  12  to  18 
in.  in  the  row.  Another  method — and  a  good  one — is  to  sow  in  hills  2  ft. 
apart,  leaving  2  or  3  plants  in  each  hill.  Pick  off  the  thick,  succulent  leaves 
and  tender  shoots,  preserving  the  main  stems;  the  plants  will  immediately 
start  out  into  new  growth,  yielding  delicious  greens  until  frost. 

Squash  should  be  planted  or  started  in  frames,  as  recommended  for 
the  Cucumbers  and  Melons  already  discussed.     For  earhest  use,  plant  a 


CrookQeck  Squash  i 

few  hills  of  SceJloped  or  Crookneck  type  of  Summer  variety.  These  may 
be  had  in  the  bush  form,  thus  taking  up  comparatively  little  space.  There 
are  a  few  varieties,  such  as  Fordhook  and  Delicata,  which  will  serve  for 
both  Summer  and  Winter  use.  Bush  varieties  may  be  planted  in  hills 
4  or  5  ft.  apart  each  way,  while  for  running  sorts  the  hills  should  be  7  to  8 
ft.  apart  to  allow  for  proper  development.  Cover  the  seed  /^  to  1  in.  deep. 
Put  8  or  10  seeds  in  each  hill  and  thin  to  2  or  3  of  the  strongest  plants. 
If  the  plants  are  kept  well  dusted  with  tobacco  or  wood  ashes  during  the 
early  stages  of  growth,  it  wiU  help  to  discourage  the  appearance  of  the 
insects  Ukely  to  attack  them.  Success  of  the  late  or  Winter  varieties  may 
be  made  much  more  certain  by  starting  them  in  paper  pots  in  frames  and 
setting  out.  The  first  sign  of  the  deadly  Squash  borer  is  Ukely  to  be  a 
slight  wilting  of  the  leaves  on  a  hot,  bright  day.  Make  a  thorough  examina- 
tion at  once  at  the  base  of  the  stem,  and  if  you  find  a  smeJl  hole  from  which 
a  gummy,  yellowish  matter  has  exuded,  slit  the  thin  cavity  lengthwise  until 
you  find  the  intruder.  Then  cover  the  joints  of  the  stem  with  a  little 
soil;  new  roots  wiU  form  and  the  plant  wiU  go  on  growing. 

SWISS  CHARD. 

Swiss  Chard,  or  Spinach  Beet,  is  now  used  by  many  gardeners  in  pref- 
erence to  Spinach.    One  great  advantage  is  that  from  a  single  planting  in 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 


211 


Swiss  Chard 


the  Spring  greens  are  available  in 
abundance  until  hard  freezing 
weather.  If  the  outside  leaves 
only  are  taken  in  gathering  a 
picking  may  be  made  every  few 
days,  or  the  large,  mid-ribs  may 
be  stewed  or  creamed  like  Celery . 
Give  the  same  culture  as  you  give 
Beets,  and  thin  the  plants  out  to 
6  or  8  in.  in  the  row. 

TOMATOES 

As  soon  as  danger  from  late 
frost  is  over,  set  out  the  strongest, 
stockiest  plants  you  can  find, 
even  if  you  have  to  pay  several 
cents  more  apiece  for  them.  A 
half  handful  or  so  of  bone  or 
guano  in  each  hill  wiU  produce  a 
strong  start.  However,  a  Uttle 
chicken  manure,  or  a  well  rotted 
compost  may  be  used  for  this 
purpose.  Set  the  plants  deep,  even 
if  you  cover  several  inches  of  stem, 
as  new  roots  will  be  formed  all 
the  way  up,    and   you   will    be 

better  prepared,  therefore,  for  dry  weatner.  For  garden  culture  the 
plants  should  be  supported  by  4  to  5  ft.  stakes,  a  trellis,  or  the  specially 
prepared  circular  Tomato  supports  now  available.  Set  them  from  18  in. 
to  2  ft.  apart  in  rows  3  to  4  ft.  apart.  As  soon  as  the  plants  reach  the 
tops  of  the  stakes,  nip  off  the  terminal  buds.  This  strengthens  the  vine 
and  gives  more  nourishment  to  the  fruit.  Two  dozen  plants  or  so,  if  they 
are  well  cared  for,  will  provide  an  abundance  of  fruit  for  the  average  family. 
If  you  intend  to  can  for  Winter  supply,  fifty  plants  is  none  too  many  for  a 
family  of  five  or  six  persons.  To  get  the  earhest  and  the  smoothest  fruits, 
keep  the  vines  tied  up  to  stakes  or  treUis  with  raffia,  strips  of  cloth,  or  soft 
twine,  as  they  grow.  Train  each  plant  to  not  more  than  3  or  4  stems  by 
pinching  off  the  side  shoots  which  appear  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves.  Avoid 
injuring  the  flowering  or  fruit  buds.  An  intensive  method  of  culture  is  to 
set  plants  16  in.  apart  in  a  double  row  18  in.  apart,  lea\'ing  a  space  of  3  ft. 
between  the  rows.  The  plants  are  pruned  to  single  stems  and  trained  to 
stakes  4  to  5  ft.  long.  By  this  method  the  fruits  which  do  set  will  have  more 
nourishment  and  more  sunshine  than  if  the  vines  are  allowed  to  grow  bushy 
and  sprawl  on  the  ground.  Remove  all  suckers  from  the  base  of  the  plant. 
The  newly  set  plants  must  be  protected  from  cutworms  with  paper  collars 
or  poison  baits,  but  strong,  pot-grown  plants  are  hkely  to  defy  them,  as 
they  are  too  large  and  tough  to  be  eaten  through  readily.  By  the  proper 
choice  of  early  and  late  varieties  a  succession  of  good  Tomatoes  may  be 
had.  Just  before  danger  of  frost  pick  all  the  mature  fruits  and  pack  them 
in  straw  in  a  coldframe  to  rioen  un.      In  this  way  they  may  be  had  for 


212 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


several  weeks  after  frost.  A  green  Tomato  is  excellent  for  pickles  and 
preserves  or  it  can  be  ripened  in  the  cellar.  It  is  highly  advantageous  to 
start  Tomatoes  from  seed  in  a  coldframe  or  in  a  box  placed  in  the  sunny 
window  of  the  house.  A  small  packet  of  seed  will  yield  all  the  plants  you 
require  for  transplanting,  and  there  will  be  some  left  to  fill  up  gaps.  Sow 
in  March,  broadcast  or  in  drills  5  in.  apart,  covering  Y^  in.  deep.  In  order 
to  secure  strong,  vigorous  plants  transplant  once  or  twice  before  planting 
in  the  open  ground.     If  Potato  bugs  appear  on  the  Tomato  plants  pick 


Tomatoes  trained  to  a  fence 

them  off  by  hand.  Light  sprayings  of  Bordeaux  mixture  should  prevent 
leaf-blight  and  leaf-curl.  Fruits  showing  signs  of  rot  on  the  blossom  end 
must  be  removed  as  soon  as  discovered. 


TURNIPS— VEGETABLE  MARROW 

Seed  for  the  first  crop  of  Turnips  may  be  put  in  as  soon  as  the  ground 
can  be  made  ready  in  the  Spring.  Sow  the  seed  3^  in.  to  1  in.  deep  in  drills 
15  to  18  in.  apart  and  thin  out  the  plants  to  4  to  6  in.  As  they  are  at  their 
best  for  table  use  only  for  a  short  time,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  plant  an  early 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 


213 


and  a  medium  or  late 
variety  about  the 
first  of  each  month 
through  the  season; 
in  July  a  larger 
planting  can  be  made 
for  Winter  use.  While 
the  tender  seedlings 
are  very  small  when 
they  first  come  up, 
they  grow  very  rap- 
idly, and  unless  thin- 
ning out  is  done  at 
once,  it  is  likely  to 
give  the  crop  a  severe 

setback  when  it  is  attended  to.  Freshly  manured  soil  should  be 
avoided,  and  if  there  is  a  spot  in  the  garden  which  is  light  and  sandy,  it  is 
apt  to  produce  roots  of  a  milder  flavor  than  heavy  soil. 

Vegetable  Marrow  is  another  member  of  the  curcubit  family,  very 
similar  in  habit  of  growth  to  the  Summer  Squashes,  there  being  also  bush, 
dwarf  and  running  varieties.  It  is  planted  and  grown  in  the  same  way. 
The  fruits  should  be  used  while  comparatively  young. 


White  Milan  Turnips 


WATERCRESS 

There  may  be  opportunities  for  the  cultivation  of  fresh  young  plants 
of  this  delightful,  pungent,  and  health  giving  salad.  It  delights  in  a  slow- 
running  brook,  but  may  be  also  cultivated  in  beds  where  there  is  a  very 
sUght  flow  of  water.  It  is  easily  raised  from  seeds,  but  more  generally 
perhaps  from  cuttings.  A  good  method  of  propagation  is  to  sow  the  seed 
broadcast  in  a  box  or  pan  of  very  moist  soil,  covering  about  }/i  in.  When 
the  seedlings  are  well  started  they  can  be  transplanted  near  to  the  edges  of 
a  running  stream  or  in  the  brook  or  pond.  A  bunch  of  the  stems  one  buys 
from  a  greengrocer,  stuck  in  the  wet  soil,  will  root  readily,  and  the  young 
tender  sprouts  from  these  will  furnish  the  supply  throughout  the  Summer. 


WATERMELONS 

The  requirements  of  Watermelons  are  in  general  the  same  as  those 
of  the  other  curcubits  already  mentioned,  except  that  much  more  space 
is  demanded  by  them.  The  hills  are  put  6  to  8  ft.  apart  each  way.  In  a 
small  garden  space  can  sometimes  be  saved  by  putting  Watermelons  (the 
same  idea  applies  to  ^^'inter  Squash  and  Sugar  Pumpkins)  near  the  edge- 
of  the  garden  where  tlie  vines  can  be  allowed  to  run  out  over  the  grass,  or 
supported  on  old  Pea  Brush  or  something  similar  along  a  fence,  thus  saving 
space.  Plant  only  a  variety  adapted  to  your  locality.  In  the  Northern 
States  the  season  is  not  long  enough  for  any  but  the  early  varieties  to 
mature,  while  tliis  advantage  can  be  overcome  to  a  great  extent  by  starting 
the  plants  in  paper  pots  in  frames  two  weeks  or  so  earher  than  the  seeds 
could  be  planted  outside. 


214 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Useful  Pointers  for  the  Vegetable  Grower 


Don't  be  discouraged  by  failures.  Keep 
at  it  and  you'll  win  out. 

Poor  germination  is  often  due  to  the 
fact  that  the  seeds  are  loosely  covered  in 
the  soil.  See  that  the  earth  about  the 
seeds  is  well  firmed  or  packed.  This  pre- 
vents air-spaces  and  the  seed  is  brought  in 
close  contact  with  the  soil. 

If  transplanted  during  cloudy  or  showery 
weather,  or  in  the  early  evening,  plants  will 
take  hold  more  quickly. 

Tomatoes,  Celery,  Egg  Plants  and 
Peppers  become  more  stocky  and  vigorous 
by  being  transplanted  a  second  time, 
preferably  to  pots,  before  being  set  out 
in  the  open  ground. 

Precautions  to  keep  vegetable  plants 
healthy  and  robust,  especially  by  frequent 
cultivation,  weeding  and  watering,  will 
repay  both  time  and  expense. 

Where  artificial  watering  is  necessary, 
a  good  rule  is  to  "water  much  and  seldom 
— never  little  and  often."  Light  watering 
in  hot  weather  results  in  a  baked  surface. 

Always  aim  to  procure  seeds  of  the 
best  quality.  Poor  seeds  are  expensive. 
The  very  best  culture  cannot  make  up 
for  inferior  seeds. 

Green  Peas  and  Sweet  Corn,  freshly 
picked  and  eaten,  yield  all  their  delicacy 
of  flavor  and  sweetness.  These  two,  alone, 
will  well  repay  for  all  your  work  on  the 
vegetable  garden. 

Aphids  usually  congregate  on  the  under 
sides  of  the  leaves.  Direct  your  spray 
accordingly. 

Vegetables  should  be  gathered  before 
they  become  too  ripe.  This  will  ensure 
better  quality  and  prolong  the  yielding 
period  of  the  plants. 

Rutabagas,  or  "Swedes,"  have  a  richer 
flesh  than  ordinary  Turnips  and  are  better 
Winter  keepers. 

Such  vegetables  as  Tomatoes,  Beans, 
Peppers  and  Egg  Plants  are  heat  lovers 
and  grow  much  faster  in  the  warmth  and 
moisture  of  June  than  if  an  attempt  is 
made  to  start  them  in  the  open  ground  a 
month  or  so  earlier. 

All  vegetables  respond  readily  to  good 
treatment.  The  more  quickly  they  are 
grown  the  more  tender,  crisp  and  nutri- 
tious they  are. 

Don't  transfer  young  plants  to  the  open 
ground  until  soil  and  weather  conditions 
are  favorable  for  them  to  start  and  to 
keep  on  growing. 

It  pays  to  raise  and  eat  Beans.  They 
contain  more  food  elements  than  most  other 
crops.     Fine  canned,  too. 

Plant  food  in  the  form  of  liquid  manure 
accomplishes  wonders  in  a  garden  during 
mid-Summer. 

When  Onion  tops  begin  to  fall  it  is  a  sign 
that  they  are  ripe  for  gathering.     The  bulbs 


should  be  pulled,  laid  in  windrows  until 
thoroughly  dried  and  then  packed  away 
for  the  Winter. 

To  promote  the  success  of  garden  crops, 
the  soil  must  be  finely  prepared  and  the 
operation  of  seeding  carefully  and  properly 
done.  Select  seeds  that  are  of  high  vitality 
and  facilitate  germination  and  growth  by 
providing  continuous  moisture,  keeping  the 
surface  of  the  soil  from  baking  or  crusting. 
Practice  early  and  persistent  cultivation. 

Parsnips  may  remain  in  the  ground  all 
Winter  without  injury. 

On  hillsides,  be  the  slope  ever  so  slight, 
plant  rows  across  the  hill,  not  up  and  down. 
They  will  thus  escape  washouts  by  heavy 
rains. 

Commence  cultivating  as  soon  as  the 
plants  appear  above  the  ground.  Give 
close  attention  to  thinning  and  pack  the 
soil  around  the  roots  of  the  plants  to 
remain  in  the  row. 

Potatoes  may  be  dug  any  time  after  the 
vines  are  dead.  Do  not  allow  them  to  lie 
exposed  to  the  sun. 

When  ants  appear  in  the  garden  you  can 
get  rid  of  the  nuisance  by  smothering 
them  in  the  nest.  Pour  into  it  a  little  car- 
bon bisulphide,  cover  with  damp  cloths, 
and  the  fumes  will  do  the  rest. 

Swiss  Chard  and  New  Zealand  Spinach 
are  among  the  most  profitable  vegetables 
of  the  home  garden.  They  furnish  delicious 
greens  and  from  early  Summer  till  frost  are 
inviting  the  gardener  to  "cut  and  come 
again."     Excellent  canned. 

Crops  should  be  rotated  annually.  By 
following  one  crop  with  another  of  an 
entirely  different  nature  the  soil  is  benefited 
and  plants  are  not  so  liable  to  suffer  from 
disease  and  injury  by  insects. 

Potato  crop  cultivation  should  cease 
when  the  vines  are  in  flower.  The  small 
Potatoes  are  then  developing  and  tne  culti- 
vating tool  might  damage  them. 

If  possible,  arrange  the  rows  in  the  gar- 
den so  that  they  run  from  north  to  south. 
Each  row  will  in  this  way  get  its  share  of 
sunlight. 

It  is  impossible  for  plants  to  grow  to  per- 
fection unless  they  are  properly  thinned 
or  transplanted.  'Thinning  should  be  done 
when  the  seedlings  are  very  small,  but  if 
wanted  for  transplanting  they  may  be  left 
until  large  enough  to  handle. 

Kohl-Rabi  is  at  its  best  for  family  use 
when  young  and  before  the  skin  of  the 
bulb  toughens.  It  is  then  tender  and  of 
fine  flavor. 

Plant  everything  in  rows.  This  is  better 
than  sowing  seeds  broadcast.  The  weeding 
and  cultivation  will  be  much  more  easily 
and  effectively  done. 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 


215 


Because  of  their  great  value  as  destroyers 
of  numerous  garden  pests,  you  should  not 
interfere  wdth  the  activities  of  such  visitors 
as  frogs  and  toads,  ground  and  lady  bug 
beetles,  bees,  tree  crickets,  dragon  flies, 
wasps,  hornets,  lizards,  lace- wing  flies, 
garden  spiders ,  etc . 

Poultry  and  sheep  manures  are  much 
more  powerful  than  horse  or  cow  manure 
in  their  action.  They  should  be  used  cau- 
tiously, for  it  is  possible  to  get  the  appli- 
cation so  strong  that  the  vegetables  will 
be  burned  rather  than  improved. 

The  use  of  slaked  lime  will  be  found 
highly  beneficial.  It  seems  to  loosen  the 
heavier  soils;  it  affects  the  sandier  soils  and 
makes  them  more  moisture-holding;  it 
sweetens  the  sour  soils,  and  by  its  chemical 
influence  with  certain  of  the  substances  in 
the  soil  it  renders  available  a  liberal  share 
of  the  earth's  storehouse  of  food.  It  should 
be  applied  very  early  in  Spring  or  in  the 
Fall.  A  50-lb.  sack  to  a  plot  30  ft.  by  40 
ft.  will  be  sufficient. 

When  plants  are  first  transplanted  during 
hot  weather  they  should  be  protected  from 
the  sun's  rays  for  a  few  days,  otherwise 
they  are  liable  to  wilt  and  die  off.  Use 
cheese-cloth,  shaded  sash  or  boards  for 
shading. 

On  no  account  allow  your  soil  to  bake.  A 
rain  shower  or  watering  during  extremely 
hot  weather  will  often  produce  a  hard  crust 
over  the  soil.  This  is  detrimental  to  plant 
growth  and  should  be  broken  up  without 
delay. 

When  battling  to  suppress  weeds,  the 
gardner  will  find  that  early  morning  cultiva- 
tion will  aid  him  materially.  Exposure  to 
the  drying  influence  of  the  sun  will  wither 
most  weeds  before  they  have  an  opportunity 
to  revive  in  the  moist  atmosphere  of  the 
evening. 

For  essential  hand  tools  in  the  garden, 
see  Contents. 

Planting  for  succession:  for  instance, 
to  have  one  crop  of  green  Peas  follow 
another  by  planting  a  first  row  say,  April 
15  and  another  April  25,  is  all  too  often, 
much  of  a  fallacy,  yet  all  good  gardeners 
strive  for  that  result.  The  fault  lies  with 
our  variable  climate. 

In  making  up  formulas  for  the  small 
garden,  bear  in  mind  that  eight  teaspoonfuls 
make  one  fluid  ounce,  sixteen  ounces  make  a 
pint  and  there  are  eight  pints  in  a  gallon. 

THE  VALUE  OF  DRAINAGE 

There  are  few  places  where  some  amount 
of  drainage  is  not  necessary.  It  may  be 
merely  the  drainage  around  greenhouses  to 
keep  them  dry  and  prevent  rot,  or  it  may 
be  the  improvement  in  land,  or  proper 
drainage  of  benches.  All  land  that  holds 
water  for  a  day  or  so  after  heavy  rain 
requires  drainage.  The  benefits  derivable 
are  the  sweetening  of  the  soil,  making  it 
accessible  to  roots  to  a  much  greater  depth. 


freeing  it  of  stagnant  water,  and  allowing 
healthy  action  to  take  place.  Cylindrical 
tiles  of  2J^  in.  diameter,  set  from  23^  ft. 
to  3,V^  ft.  deep,  according  to  the  stiffness  or 
sogginess  of  the  soil,  are  recommended; 
these  to  be  30  ft.  apart. 


METHODS  OF  TESTING  SOILS 
FOR  ACIDITY 

Probably  the  simplest  test  for  ascertain- 
ing whether  a  soil  is  acid,  that  is,  lacking  in 
calcium  carbonate,  is  by  the  use  of  litmus 
paper  which  can  be  obtained  at  any  drug- 
store. Buy  a  few  slips  of  the  blue  kind  and 
be  careful  to  keep  it  in  a  tightly  corked 
glass  vial  and  not  to  handle  with  the 
fingers  which  themselves  may  contain 
suflBcient  acid  to  turn  it  pink.  A  reliable 
way  to  make  the  test  is  to  place  one  or  two 
small  pieces  of  the  blue  paper  in  the  bottom 
of  a  glass  tumbler.  Upon  these  lay  a  piece 
of  blotting  paper  cut  to  exactly  the  size  of 
the  glass  and  on  this  place  an  inch  or  two  of 
the  soil  to  be  tested.  Moisten  this  soil 
thoroughly  with  rain  or  distilled  water  until 
it  13  wet  enough  to  saturate  the  blotting 
paper,  then  cover  the  tumbler  and  leave  it 
for  from  half  an  hour  to  an  hour.  At  the 
end  of  this  time  turn  it  upside  down  and 
notice  the  condition  of  the  paper.  If  it 
has  turned  from  blue  to  pink  the  soil  is 
acid.  If  it  has  remained  blue,  the  soil  is 
either  neutral  or  more  probably   alkaline. 

"The  only  disadvantage  of  this  test  is  that 
It  gives  no  idea  as  to  the  degree  of  acidity. 
For  that  matter  it  may  not  always  be 
accurate,  in  that  careless  handling  or  other 
local  conditions  may  cause  the  paper  to 
turn  pink  even  though  there  is  no  apprecia- 
ble amount  of  acid  in  the  soil.  For  these 
reasons,  persons  who  have  occasion  to 
test  soils  for  acidity  would  do  well  to 
familiarize  themselves  with  a  more  recently 
evolved  method  and  one  which  is  only 
slightly  more  complicated  than  the  litmus 
paper  test. 

This  test  was  designed  by  Prof.  E.  Truog, 
of  the  University  of  Michigan,  and  not  only 
detects  positively  the  presence  of  acid  in 
the  soil,  but  also  indicates  the  degree  of 
that  acid  and,  consequently,  the  amount 
of  lime  required  to  neutralize  it.  It  is 
based  upon  the  chemical  principle  that 
when  zinc  sulfid  comes  in  contact  with  any 
form  of  soil  acid,  hydrogen  sulfid  gas  is 
formed;  and  when  this  gas  comes  in  contact 
with  lead  acetate,  lead  sulfid,  a  black 
chemical  is  formed. 

In  making  the  test,  one  simply  places  a 
small,  measured  quantity  of  the  soil  in  a 
glass  flask  and  adds  to  it  a  solution  com- 
posed of  20  per  cent  calcium  chloride  and 
2  per  cent  zinc  sulfid.  The  mixture  is 
heated  to  the  boiling  point  over  an  alcohol 
lamp  and  the  boiling  allowed  to  continue 
for  a  few  minutes  to  drive  off  any  carbonic 


216 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


acid  gas  which  may  be  liberated.  The 
boiling  is  then  continued  but  the  mouth  of 
the  flask  is  covered  with  a  piece  of  paper 
which  has  previously  been  soaked  in  a 
solution  of  lead  acetate,  then  dried  and 
again  moistened  with  clear  water  just  be- 
fore being  used  in  the  test.  If  the  soil  is 
acid,  the  chemical  reaction  between  the 
fumes  and  the  paper,  described  above, 
turns  the  paper  from  white  to  light  brown 
or  black,  depending  upon  the  amount  of 
acid  in  the  soil.  By  comparing  the  color 
of  the  paper  at  the  end  of  a  definite  number 


of  moments  with  a  color  scale  or  chart 
which  has  been  prepared  by  the  inventor  of 
the  test  and  which  can  be  obtained  from 
the  University  of  Wisconsin  at  Madison, 
any  observer  can  quickly  determine  the 
approximate  degree  of  acidity  in  the  soil 
and  thereby  the  approximate  need  of  lime 
exhibited  by  it.  This  test  has  been  de- 
scribed in  detail  in  a  bulletin  issued  by  the 
Experiment  Station  of  the  Wisconsin 
University,  from  which  copies  can  be 
obtained  free  as  long  as  they  are  available. 


Wintering  Celery  in  a  Trench 


Celery  properly  stored  in  an  outdoor 
trench  will  keep  in  better  condition  and 
longer  than  in  any  other  place.  The  trench 
should  be  made  in  a  well  drained  spot, 
preferably  across  the  higher  part  of  a 
sloping  field.  A  regular  spade  should  be 
used  in  making  the  trench,  which  should 
be  a  spade  wide,  and  have  vertical  sides, 
and  as  deep  as  the  celery  is  tall,  when 
measured  after  it  is  dug,  from  top  of  leaves 
in  their  usual  positions  to  the  bottom  of 
root  clump.  Place  the  plants,  beginning 
at  one  end  o£  the  trench  (and  working  back- 
ward) one  by  one  in  an  upright  position, 
crowding  both  root  clumps  and  stalks 
tightly  together.  This  close  packing  is 
important,  since  Celery  will  not  keep  well 
when  loosely  packed. 

When  the  trench  is  filled  it  should  be 
covered  with  boards  each  12  in.  to  14  in. 
wide  and  3  ft.  to  5  ft.  long,  laid  on  length- 
wise of  the  trench.  Thin  boards  should  be 
laid  across  the  cracks  where  the  ends  of  the 


boards  meet.  At  first  only  two  to  three 
inches  of  soil  should  be  placed  on  top  of  the 
boards,  but  when  freezing  weather  is  at 
hand,  a  foot  or  more  cf  soil  in  all  should  be 
heaped  above  the  boards,  and  for  a  foot 
beyond  each  side  of  these  and,  when  the 
ground  begins  to  freeze,  above  the  soil 
should  be  heaped  straw  or  hay  or  coarse 
strawy  manure,  or  leaves,  to  the  depth  of 
about  a  foot;  the  thickness  of  soil  and  straw 
covering  depending  upon  the  latitude.  The 
Celery  can  quite  easily  be  trken  out  any 
pleasant  day  in  Winter  by  opening  one 
end  of  the  trench.  The  short  lengths 
of  boards  make  it  necessary  to  uncover 
only  a  small  part  of  the  trench  at  one 
time;  in  fact,  one  can  reach  under  the  end 
of  the  board,  and  take  out  Celery  for  part 
of  its  length  the  first  time  and,  on  the 
second  visit,  remove  the  board  entirely  and 
take  out  the  rest  of  the  plants  under  that 
board.  Always  recover  closely  the  portion 
of  the  ditch  next  to  the  remaining  plants. 


Labeling  Plants — Memorandum  Book 


There  are  two  main  reasons  why  labels 
are  useful  in  the  garden.  First,  it  is  well 
to  know  just  what  has  been  planted  in  each 
row  of  the  vegetable  garden,  and  when  it 
was  planted.  The  date  of  planting  is 
always  useful. 

The  second  reason  for  labeling  plants  is 
one  of  great  interest  in  the  garden.  It 
enables  you  to  give  choice  plants  extra 
attention . 

There  is  little  fun  in  gardening  without 
labels  when  one  has  a  lot  of  strange  plants 
in  the  yard.  Find  out  their  names,  get 
acquainted  and  label  them  before  you 
forget  the  name. 

Labels.  An  18  in.  wooden  label  is 
strongly  recommended  for  use;  it  will  last 
longer  because  it  is  stronger,  cannot  be 
lost  because  it  is  of  fair  size  and  can  be 
used  year  in  and  year  out.     Write  names  on 


them,  using  a  heavy  blue  pencil.  Affix 
day  of  month,  month  and  year.  This  will 
be  found  of  value  for  reference  all  through 
the  season.  In  the  following  year  partially 
efface  with  the  edge  of  a  sharp  knife  the 
blue  pencil  marks,  and  your  label  is  ready 
for  use  all  over  again.  Such  labels  should 
last  10  to  15  years,  and  as  they  stand  well 
above  the  ground,  they  are  most  service- 
able. Zinc  labels  upon  which  the  name  is 
written  with  indelible  ink  are  useful. 

Garden  Memorandum  Book.  A  small  note 
book  in  which  can  be  recorded  the  name 
of  plant,  the  date  sown  or  planted,  and  the 
first  and  last  pickings,  will  form  in  interest- 
ing record  of  the  vegetable  garden.  The 
notebook  is  useful  too,  year  after  year,  in 
comparing  the  qualities  of  certain  varities 
of  flowering  plants.  Let  this  book  be  the 
repository  of  garden  receipts  and  sugges- 
tions from  friends. 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN  217 

The  Vegetable  Garden  in  Winter 

As  the  harvesting  season  draws  to  a  close  and  the  inactive  period 
of  Winter  approaches,  some  very  important  things  can  be  done  in 
the  garden  to  insure  maximum  results  the  next  year.  The  best  possible 
program  at  this  time  is  as  follows:  1 .  Harvest  everything  that  can  be 
used  either  fresh,  pickled  or  preserved.  This  includes  green  Tomatoes, 
immature  Squash,  small,  late-sown  Carrots  and  Beets,  etc.  2.  Pull 
up,  rake  together  and  remove  all  dead  vines,  haulms,  stubble,  etc. 
All  that  is  free  from  disease  and  not  too  woody  should  go  on  the  com- 
post pile  or  first  into  the  chicken  yard  or  pig-pen  if  there  is  one.  Any- 
thing that  may  be  infested  with  disease  spores  or  insect  eggs  should  be 
burnt  at  once.  3.  Spade  up,  plow,  or  even  simply  harrow  or  cultivate 
the  whole  garden,  turning  under  any  manure  that  you  may  have 
available.  4.  Sow  on  the  rough  surface  a  cover  crop  and  rake  well  to 
cover  the  seed.  Such  a  mixture  as  Rye  and  Vetch,  that  will  Kve  over 
Winter  and  make  added  growth  until  plowed  under  in  the  Spring,  is 
best.  Red  or  Alsike  Clover  is  good,  and  where  there  is  time  for  con- 
siderable Fall  growth  Field  Peas  and  Oats,  or  either  one  alone,  is  satis- 
factory. 

Whatever  you  use,  the  aim  is  to  get  the  ground  covered  with  a 
crop  that  will  (a)  keep  the  soil  from  washing  during  the  Winter;  (b) 
add  humus  and  plant  food  when  plowed  under;  and  (c)  smother  out 
weeds  or  prevent  them  from  becoming  established.  Consequently,  if 
the  above  program  cannot  be  carried  out,  it  is  better  to  leave  most  of 
the  vegetable  stubble  or  even  a  crop  of  weeds  standing  than  to  clear 
away  every  ^^estige  of  plant  life  and  leave  the  soil  bare  and  empty  over 
Winter. 

Every  b^t  of  leaf,  stem  and  root  tissue  turned  under  to  rot,  adds 
not  only  the  plant  food  it  took  from  the  soil,  but  also  a  good  deal  that 
it  secured  from  the  air;  in  short  it  is  real  "green  manure."  Again,  the 
extra  stirring  that  it  gets  when  a  Winter  cover  crop  is  sown  benefits 
the  soil,  and  if  some  commercial  fertilizer,  a  dressing  of  lime  or  wood 
ashes,  or  an  application  of  manure  can  be  worked  in  at  the  same  time, 
so  much  the  better.  The  manure  can,  however,  be  applied  at  your 
leisure  during  the  Winter  to  be  plowed  under  with  the  cover  crop;  and 
an  especially  good  time  to  lime  the  soil  is  just  after  such  a  plowing  and 
before  the  ground  is  harrowed  or  raked. 


218  GARDEN  GUIDE 

The  Home  Food  Winter  Storage  Cellar 

See  diagram  on  opposite  page 

Our  diagram  of  a  Winter  food  storage  cellar  shows  a  comer  in 
the  cellar,  which  should  preferably  be  a  northwest  corner.  The 
partitions  shown  must  be  finished  off  so  that  no  heat  can  penetrate 
the  storage  cellar  from  the  furnace;  to  that  end,  a  brick  partition 
is  undoubtedly  the  best,  but  if  this  cannot  be  had,  the  next  best  would 
be  a  double  partition  of  seven-eighth  inch  boards,  with  building  paper 
and  an  air  space  between,  and  with  a  door  built  in  the  same  way, 
having  a  bevelled  edge.  If  strict  economy  rules  at  least  use  a  single 
thickness  of  boards,  as  shown  in  plan,  with  heavy  building  paper  on 
one  side.  This  paper  should  be  well  held  in  position  by  means  of  large- 
headed  tacks,  hberally  used. 

Cellar  walls  of  brick,  stone  or  cement,  protected  on  the  out- 
side by  a  coat  of  tar  or  other  material  to  make  it  impervious  to  damp- 
ness, are  perfectly  all  right  for  Winter  storage,  but  if  your  wall  is  of 
hollow  tile,  dampness  will  certainly  have  to  be  guarded  against, 
especially  during  the  untoward  warm  days  which  come  to  us  in  Winter. 

According  to  the  compass  exposure  of  this  storage  cellar  (window 
facing  south,  for  instance)  it  will  be  advisable  to  reverse  the  arrange- 
ment shown  in  diagram. 

Fashion  your  bins  to  suit  your  requirements.  They  are  of  best 
advantage  for  preserving  vegetables  when  made  of  slats  so  as  to  allow 
for  circulation  of  air.  It  would  then  be  better  to  use  many  more  slat 
shelves  for  Apples  and  Potatoes  than  are  indicated  on  plan. 

Whitewash  your  entire  cellar  once  a  year. 

A  window  in  this  Winter  storage  cellar  is  not  a  vital  necessity. 
If  there  is  a  window  it  should  be  heavily  curtained,  if  facing  the  south 
or  west. 

Pumpkins  and  Squash  should  be  laid  on  boards  if  the  cellar  does 
not  have  a  cement  floor.    Squash,  however,  can  stand  fifty  degrees. 

Potatoes — If  these  show  signs  of  rotting  in  the  bin,  through 
dampness,  sprinkle  with  slaked  lime. 

The  ideal  temperature  for  such  a  cellar  would  be  from  35  to  40 
degrees;  understood,  of  course,  a  freezing  temperature  would  be 
fatal  to  some  of  your  stored  supplies. 

In  such  a  repository  can  also  be  placed  away  for  Winter,  all 
your  bulbs  and  tuberous-rooted  stock,  such  as  Gladioli,  Dahlias  and 
Cannas;  the  two  last  mentioned  should  be  slightly  covered  with  a 
layer  of  sand. 


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219 


no  GARDEN  GUIDE 

Herbs 

From  time  immemorial  herbs  have  been  used  for  medicinal 
and  flavoring  purposes,  some  being  grown  for  their  seed,  some  for 
foliage,  others  for  flowers  and  roots.  It  is  always  a  genuine  pleasure 
to  be  able  to  supply  your  own  wants,  pure  and  unadulterated.  The 
varieties  Usted  herewith,  the  uses  of  which  are  fully  explained,  will 
enable  a  selection  to  be  made  of  the  most  desirable  kinds  essential  for 
home  use. 

The  culture  of  herbs  requires  no  particular  skill;  they  all  hke  a 
fairly  rich  soil,  and  may  be  grown  from  seeds  or  purchased  as  plants 
or  dormant  roots.  A  bed  20  x  4  ft.  should  accommodate  all  the  species 
required  for  the  average  household,  but  more  room  may  be  given,  if 
desired,  and  beds  3  x  2  ft.  devoted  to  each  separate  kind. 

The  annual  varieties  should  be  grown  by  themselves.  The  peren- 
nial varieties  should  be  planted  in  permanent  beds,  as  they  come  up 
each  year  after  being  cut  down  in  the  Fall. 

All  herbs  grown  for  their  foliage  should  be  cut  when  the  growth 
is  mature,  or  when  the  flowers  show,  tied  in  small  bundles,  and  hung 
in  a  dry  place.  When  thoroughly  dry,  they  can  be  put  in  paper  bags, 
and  hung  in  the  attic  until  required  for  use.  Those  grown  for  seed 
should  be  allowed  to  blossom  and  produce  seed  which,  when  ripe, 
should  be  carefully  gathered  and  dried  before  storing  away.  Those 
whose  roots  are  to  be  used,  should  be  dug  in  the  Fall  and  thoroughly 
washed  and  dried. 

Each  variety  should  be  carefully  labeled  to  aid  identification. 

Winter  Protection. — Herbs  require  some  protection  during 
Northern  Winters  and  should  be  covered  with  straw,  leaves,  or  manure. 
The  perennial  varieties  are  to  be  cut  down  within  a  few  inches  of  the 
ground,  except  Lavender,  Rosemary,  Thyme,  Sage  and  Wormwood. 
These  should  be  left  about  six  inches  above  ground.  Lavender  and 
Rosemary  being  shrubs,  require  particular  protection,  until  the  wood 
becomes  hard,  say  until  their  second  or  third  year. 

Herbs  from  Seed.— All  the  appended  list  are  easily  raised  from 
seed,  except  Tarragon,  which  does  not  seed  and  consequently  roots 
must  be  planted.  Sow  your  seed  in  a  small  prepared  bed,  then  plant 
the  seedlings  into  permanent  quarters  as  they  become  large  enough 
to  handle.  If  planted  on  a  dull  day  and  watered,  success  will  be 
assured,  or  the  seed  may  be  sown  where  it  is  to  remain,  and  gener- 
ously thinned  out  to  allow  room  for  development. 


THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN  221 

List  of  Herbs 

(A  indicates  Annuals.    P  indicates  Perennials) 

Angelica  (Angelica  Archangelica).  A.  Leaves  and  stalks  are  some- 
times eaten  raw,  or  boiled  with  meat  and  fish.     The  seeds  are  used 

for  flavoring  wines  and  cakes. 
Anise  (Pimpinella  Anisum).     A,     For  garnishing  and  flavoring;  also  in 

making  cordials. 
Balm   (Melissa  officinalis).     A.     For  making  Balm  tea  for  fevers,   also 

Balm  wine. 
Basil,  Sweet  (Ocimum    minimum).     A.     Largely  employed  by  French 

cooks  for  flavoring  purposes. 
Boneset  (Eupaiorium  perfoliaium) .     P.     Popular  remedy  for  fever  and 

ague. 
Burnet  (Sanguisorba  canadensis).     P.     Leaves  used  in  salads  and  soups. 
Caraway  (Carum  Carui).     A.     Grown  for  its  seeds,  which  are  used  for 

bread,  pastry  and  flavoring. 
Catnip  ( Nepeta  Caiaria).     P.     For  medicinal  purposes.    Much  relished  by 

cats  who  will  roll  in  it  with  great  delight. 
Chamomile  (Matricaria  Chamomilla).     P.     Used  as  a  blood  medicine. 
CfflVES  (Allium  Schcenoprasum) .     A.     Used  for    flavoring  sausages  and 

salads. 
Coriander  (Coriandrum  sativum).     A.     Seed  used  for  flavoring. 
Dill    (Anethum   graveolens).     A.     Seeds    with    aromatic    odor    and    hot 

pungent  taste.     Used  for  flavoring  vinegar  when  making  dill  pickles. 
Fennel  (Fcsniculum  officinale).     P.     Seeds  aromatic  for  flavoring.    Boiled 

leaves  are  used  in  sauces. 
Feverfew    (Pyrethrum    Parthenium).     A.     Used    medicinally;     a    good 

blood  tonic. 
Horehound  (Marrubium  vulgare).     P.     Leaves  used  as  remedy  for  colds, 

for  dyspepsia,  and  in  expelling  worms. 
Hyssop  (Hyssopus  officinalis).     P.     Leaves  and  young  shoots  used  as  a 

pot  herb;  leafy  tops  and  flower  spikes  used  for  medicinal  purposes. 

Lavender  (Lavandula  vera).  P.  Leaves  and  flowers  emit  a  delightful 
perfume;  much  used  in  the  wardrobe  to  give  the  linen  a  delicate 
perfume. 

Marigold,  Pot  (Calendula  officinalis).     A.     Medicinal  and  flavoring. 

Marjoram,  Sweet  (Origanum  Majorana).     P.     A  tonic  and  stomachic. 

Marjoram,  Pot  (Origanum  Onites).  A.  One  of  the  most  useful  of  all  the 
herbs,  the  leaves  being  employed  as  greens  and  also  dried  for  flavoring. 

Mint,  Spear  (Mentha  viridis).     P.     Used  for  flavoring. 

Mint,  Pepper  (Mentha  piperita).  P.  Good  for  stomach  and  intestinal 
troubles;   also  used  as  a  stimulant. 

Mustard,  White  (Sinapis  alba).     A.     Young  seedlings  used  as  a  salad. 

Parsley  (Carum  petroselinum) .  A.  Flavoring  and  decorations  for 
salads,  and  fancy  garnishing. 

Pennyroyal  (Hedeoma  pulegioides).  A.  Used  medicinally  as  a  stimu- 
lant and  carminative.     Good  for  keeping  mosquitoes  away. 


222  GARDEN  GUIDE 

Rosemary    {Rosemarinus  officinalis).     P.     Leaves   make  Rosemary  tea 

for  relieving  headache. 
Sage    (Salvia   officinalis).     P.     Leaves    used    for    seasoning    meats    and 

poultry;  also  used  as  a  tonic. 
Savory,  Summer  {Satureia  hortensis).     A.     Leaves  and  flowers   used   for 

flavoring. 
Tansy  (Tanacelum  vulgare).     P.     Used  in  bitters,  and  as  a  remedy  against 

worms. 
Tarragon     (Arlemisia  Draciinculas) .     P.     Leaves    impart    a    deUcious 

flavor  to  salads,  soups,  pickles,  etc. 
Thyme  (Thymus  vulgaris).     P.     Grown  in  every  garden  for  seasoning. 
Valerian  (Valeriana  officinalis).     A.     Leaves  very  efficacious  in  the  cure 

of  wounds.     Heal-all  is  an  old  name  for  it. 
Wormwood  (Artemisia  vulgaris).     P.     Used  medicinally  as  a  bitters. 


Remedies  and  Preventives  Against  Mosquitoes 

There  are  several  forms  or  species  of  mosquito;  certain  of  them  breed 
only  in  tree  holes,  others  in  crabholes  or  sea  beaches,  certain  others  breed  in 
marshes,  while  others  seem  to  breed  only  in  the  pools  formed  by  melting  snow. 
One  of  the  best  means  of  abolishing  mosquitoes  is  to  screen  all  likely  breeding 
places,  and  to  drain  marsh  ground  or  fill  in  places  where  water  collects.  Dis- 
used wells  in  gardens  are  frequent  sources  of  a  mosquito  supply;  fountains 
and  ornamental  ponds  also,  and  here  the  introduction  of  fish  is  usually  all 
sufficient,  as  these  eat  the  eggs  and  larvae;  even  urns  in  cemeteries  are  breeding 
places  for  mosquitoes.  As  in  most  other  things,  cleanliness  will  be  found  to  pay. 
Wherever  there  is  a  stagnant  pool  that  cannot  be  drained  or  filled  in,  and  is 
known  to  be  a  home  of  mosquitoes,  spraying  the  surface  with  kerosene  is  advised. 
The  heavier  grades  of  oil  will  not  spread  readily,  but  will  cling  together  in  spots, 
and  the  coating  will  be  unnecessarily  thick.  The  rapidity  of  spread  of  the 
fi'm  is  important.  As  to  quantity:  under  still  conditions  an  ounce  of  kerosene 
to  15  sq.  ft.  of  surface  water  is  about  the  right  proportion,  and  in  the  absence  of 
wind  such  a  film  may  remain  persistent  for  10  days  or  slightly  longer.  The 
oil  can  be  sprayed  through  an  ordinary  spray  nozzle.  Various  larvicides  are 
also  used,  especially  in  the  South  and  in  tropical  countries.  Smudges  and 
fumigants  are  also  employed  to  drive  away  mosquitoes. 

The  burning  of  pyrethrum  powder  in  rooms  is  a  good  practice,  or  dusting 
the  powder  into  crevices  frequented  by  the  insects  is  performed.  Sulphur,  two 
pounds  for  each  1000  cubic  feet  of  space  is  an  efficient  mosquito  destroyer,  where 
fumigation  in  the  case  of  possible  disease-bearing  mosquitoes  is  desired.  There 
are  many  remedies  for  mosquito  bites,  one  of  the  most  satisfactory  being  moist 
soap  gently  rubbed  over  the  puncture.  Others  recommended  are  household 
ammonia,  alcohol  or  glycerine. 

For  protection  on  the  piazza  at  night  bum  Chinese  punk 

For  a  complete  work  on  the  subject  of  Herbs 

we  would  recommend 
CULINARY  HERBS^  by  M.  G.  Kains.  The  only  book  devoted  to  the 
flavoring  plants  of  home  and  business  gardens.  Besides  the  comprehensive 
general  discussions  of  cultivation,  harvesting,  curing  and  uses,  the  author 
devotes  special  attention  to  each  of  the  thirty-five  species  popular  in  Europe 
and  America.     Price,  $1.10  postpaid.    Secure  your  copy  where  you  bought 

your  Garden  Guide. 

Always  consult  Index  to  Contents.     Familiarize  yourself  with  it.    There 

are  hundreds  of  good  things  in  this  book  that  will  escape  your  attention  if 

you  do  not  use  the  Index  freely 


CHAPTER  XV 


Fruit  for  the  Small  Garden 

Apples  —  Apricots — Cherries — Grapes — Pears — Plums — Peaches 

Quinces — Strawberries  —  Currants — Gooseberries — Raspberries 

Blackberries — Dewberries — Loganberries — Cordon  and  Espalier 

Training  Systems — Ideal  Fruit  Garden 

SPREAD  the  truth  far  and  wide,  the  country  over,  by  every  means 
available.  Sufficient  emphasis  can  never  be  laid  on  the  health- 
giving  advantages  to  be  derived  from  the  free  use  of  fresh  fruit. 
It  is  beneficial  to  the  adult,  but  doubly  so  for  the  children.  It  is  an 
insurance  against  disease.  Nothing  will  assist  the  processes  of  nature 
in  such  a  rational  and  effective  way  as  the  habitual  use  of  fruit.  "An 
Apple  a  day  keeps  the  doctor  away,"  is  an  old  saying  but,  nevertheless, 
a  most  true  one,  as  many  have  proved  to  their  own  satisfaction,  and 
when  one  can  practice  the  habit  from  one's  own  garden,  the  pleasure 
is  more  than  doubled. 

Fruit  gathered  fresh  from  the  plants  is  quite  a  different  article 
to  that  which  has  been  picked  and  packed,  traveled  and  finally  exposed 
to  the  dust  and  atmosphere  of  a  public  market  or  store.  Then,  too, 
another  phase  of  the  satisfaction  of  growing  fruit  for  your  own  use 
and  to  give  to  your  friends  is  in  the  pleasure  derived  from  watching 
its  development  from  the  bursting  buds  on  through  the  period  of 
flowering  to  the  ripe,  luscious,  perfect  fruit. 

It  is  surprising  how  much  more  fruit  can  be  eaten  in  the  garden 
"out  of  hand,"  than  when  served  in  the  home,  and  this  without  the 
shghtest  injurious  effects.  It  is  the  unripe  and  stale  fruit  which  should 
be  avoided;  if  you  care  for  your  fruit  garden  it  will  reward  you  with 
fresh,  ripe  fruit  in  abundance. 

In  considering  a  collection  of  fruit  trees  for  a  suburban  garden, 
particular  attention  will  be  given  those  varieties  which  produce  a 
maximum  amount  of  fruit  in  a  minimum  of  space  and  which  are 
designed  to  supply  the  family  with  fruit  for  the  table  and  culinary 
purposes  the  greater  part  of  the  year.  Available  space  must,  of  course, 
be  considered  in  planting  a  fruit  garden,  and  location  must  determine 
to  a  large  degree  the  manner  of  planting  and  arrangement  of  the 
different  fruits  so  as  to  allow  each  kind  the  greatest  amount  of  light 
and  air  possible.  Apples  and  Pears,  Peaches,  Plums  and  Cherries, 
therefore,  should  be  planted  to  avoid  casting  too  great  a  shade  on 
the  smaller  fruits  such  as  Strawberries  and  Currants.  Raspberries, 
Blackberries  and  Grapes  should  be  confined  to  trelHses  and  not  allowed 
to  extend  beyond  certain  limits,  but  to  accomplish  this,  regular  atten- 

223 


224  GARDEN  GUIDE 

tion  to  pruning  and  thinning  is  absolutely  necessary.  A  small  fruit 
garden  judiciously  planned  and  planted  will  be  a  source  of  pleasure 
and  profit,  and  well  repay  all  the  attention  that  can  be  bestowed 
upon  it. 

Depths  for  Planting 

A  good  rule  to  follow  in  planting  a  fruit  tree  is  to  set  it  deep 
enough  so  that  it  will  stand  up  firmly  without  artificial  support.  In 
sandy  soil  deeper  planting  may  safely  be  practiced,  while  on  heavy 
or  wet  soils  shallow  planting  is  recommended.  As  a  general  rule  six 
inches  is  quite  deep  enough  for  all  small  fruits,  and  eight  inches  for 
Apple,  Pear,  Plum,  Peach  and  Cherry  trees. 

Dwarf  trees  can  safely  be  planted  to  the  depth  they  have  been 
previously  grown  in  the  nursery,  but  not  deep  enough  to  afford  any 
possibihty  of  the  scion  or  graft  taking  root  in  the  soil,  otherwise  your 
dwarf  tree  will  cease  to  be  such,  as  the  rooting  scion  will  cause  a  very 
strong  growth.  Undue  vigor  in  fruit  trees  should  be  checked  by  root 
pruning. 

Having  chosen  a  location,  proceed  at  once  thoroughly  to  cultivate 
the  ground,  using  a  subsoil  plough,  or  digging  as  deeply  as  possible; 
ihen  cover  the  whole  with  a  liberal  dressing  of  well  rotted  farmyard 
manure,  and  a  hberal  sprinkhng  of  bonemeal,  and  dig  over  again. 
In  this  plant  your  fruit  trees.  Should  your  soil  be  a  rich  loam  it  will 
be  well  adapted  for  the  small  fruits  as  weU  as  Cherries  and  Apples, 
but  heavy  or  clayey  soils  will  produce  fine  Pears,  while  sandy  soil 
^11  grow  luscious  Peaches.  A  careful  study  of  conditions  previous 
to  planting  will  save  a  large  amount  of  inconvenience,  labor,  expense 
and  regret  later  on.  Apple  and  Pear  trees  take  about  six  years  to 
come  into  bearing,  but  after  that  the  crop  increases  annually.  Prun- 
ing will  accelerate  fruit  production  to  a  large  extent  and  providing  a 
good  selection  of  varieties  has  been  made,  it  is  possible  to  have  Apples 
nearly  every  month  in  the  year,  the  proper  facihties  being  available 
for  Winter  storage.  Good  cultivation  is  beneficial  to  the  growth  of 
fruit  in  general  and  hberal  treatment  will  increase  results. 

Following  is  a  table  showing  how  many  trees  or  plants  may  be 
planted  on  an  acre  at  various  distances  apart: 

Feet              Number  of      Feet              Number  of  Feet              Number  of 

apart                 trees  apart                 trees 

16 170      6 1,210 

15 194       5.. 1,744 

14    224       4 2,722 

12 304       3 4,840 

10 435       2 10,890 

8 680       1 43,560 


apart 
40 

trees 
20 

35   

34 

30  

49 

25 

70 

20 

109 

18 

135 

APPLES  225 

It  has  been  thought  unnecessary  to  include,  in  a  book  of  this 
nature,  a  large  number  of  varieties,  but  rather  to  give  the  names  of 
kinds  that  have  been  proved  of  real  merit,  and  while  those  mentioned 
are  not  all  of  the  good  ones,  they  have  been  selected  for  their  superiority 
in  vigor  and  production. 

APPLES 

These  do  best  in  a  rich,  loamy,  well  drained  soil,  in  a  position 
preferably  facing  the  east  or  southeast.  This  situation  protects  the 
trees  from  north  and  west  winds  and  retards  blooming  in  Spring, 
thereby  often  preventing  the  destruction  of  the  blossom  by  late  Spring 
frosts,  and  the  consequent  failure  of  the  crop.  In  planting,  select  a 
three-year-old  tree,  which  can  be  procm-ed  at  any  reliable  nursery,  and 
insist  on  this  being  true  to  name,  because  a  mistake  at  this  point  means 
years  of  disappointment.  Do  not  make  the  common  mistake  of  plant- 
ing your  tree  in  a  small  hole,  or  planting  too  deeply,  but  be  Hberal  in  all 
your  treatment  and  your  tree  will  respond  accordingly.  Prune  all 
broken  and  damaged  roots,  and  after  spreading  the  remaining  roots 
evenly  in  the  hole,  cover  with  fine  earth  and  give  the  tree  a  shght  shake. 
Allow  the  earth  to  sift  down  among  the  fine  roots,  then  put  on  more 
soil  and  tread  in  firmly,  finish  filling  the  hole,  and  put  on  a  generous 
mulching  to  keep  the  soil  about  the  tree  moist,  for  upon  this  mulching 
often  depends  the  fife  of  the  tree.  After  the  tree  is  firmly  planted,  , 
prune  in  the  head  to  five  or  six  branches  and  reduce  these  to  half 
their  original  length.  Attach  a  label  to  the  tree  and  it  is  ready  to 
take  a  permanent  place  in  the  garden. 

During  its  first  season  of  growth  all  superfluous  shoots  should 
be  cut  out,  keeping  in  mind  the  future  form  of  the  mature  tree.  The 
second  season  the  previous  year's  growth  should  be  cut  back  about 
half,  and  after  this  the  tree  will  usually  need  only  thinning  out  the 
center  and  such  shoots  as  cross  each  other,  .to  secure  abundance  of 
fight  and  sunshine.  The  shoots  which  come  out  of  the  stem  should 
be  rubbed  off  as  they  appear.  This  treatment  appfies  to  standards, 
which  should  be  planted  at  least  twenty-five  feet  apart,  but  in  a  small 
garden  trees  known  as  pyramids,  cordons,  and  espaliers  may  be  grown 
with  success.  These  can  be  purchased  in  that  form,  and  are  used  for 
covering  arches  or  for  growing  against  buildings,  walls  or  fences. 
They  have  the  advantage  of  producing  fruit  quicker  than  standards 
and  in  taking  less  space  in  which  to  grow,  a  consideration  where  room 
is  limited.  Pyramids  could  be  planted  in  a  row  ten  feet  apart,  cordons 
three  feet  apart  against  a  wall  or  to  form  an  arch  over  a  walk,  and 


226 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


espaliers  along  each  side  of  a  walk  or  against  a  wall  or  building,  thus 
making  the  most  of  restricted  space.  Their  pruning  is  more  severe 
and  may  be  done  in  July  and  in  Spring,  the  production  of  fruit  bear- 
ing spurs  being  the  end  in  view. 


f.r  ^l?.i 


Typical  half  standard  Apple  tree  suitable  for  the  amateur's 
garden 

The  prevention  of  San  Jose  scale  is  necessary  to  success,  and  a 
spraying  with  any  good  insecticide  sold  for  that  purpose  must  be 
given  while  the  trees  are  dormant  in  Spring;  lime  and  sulphur  mix- 
ture treatment  is  very  good.  Then  the  familiar  codling  moth  has  to 
be  dealt  with.     Arsenate  of  lead,  three  pounds  to  fifty  gallons  of 


APPLES  227 

water,  sprayed  through  a  fine  nozzle,  has  proved  the  very  best  treat- 
ment for  this  pest,  but  many  egg  clusters  can  be  gathered  from  the 
trees  if  carefully  scrutinized  while  pruning.  The  trees  should  be 
sprayed  as  soon  as  possible  after  the  blossoms  fall,  the  object  being  to 
get  some  of  the  insecticide  into  the  calyx  before  it  closes  up  tight,  or 
the  fruit  turns  downward.    Avoid  spraying  the  poison  on  the  fruit. 

Another  spraying  is  necessary  for  fungous  growth  on  the  fruit. 
This  should  be  done  with  arsenate  of  lead  as  soon  as  possible  after  the 
woolly  down  begins  to  come  off  the  young  fruit.  No  particular  time 
can  be  stated,  as  in  different  localities  the  season  varies,  but  by  taking 
notice  of  the  condition  of  the  fruit,  no  mistake  can  be  made.  If  green 
or  black  aphis  appear  on  the  growth  of  the  young  trees,  spraying  with 
what  is  known  as  "Black  Leaf  40"  is  the  best  remedy.  It  is  a  prepara- 
tion of  nicotine  in  a  concentrated  form,  and  should  be  used  according 
to  directions  supplied  with  each  can. 

Apples  are  seldom  propagated  except  in  nurseries,  where  large 
quantities  are  raised  from  seed  and  the  many  varieties  in  demand 
are  then  grafted  on  these  seedlings  while  they  are  quite  small.  Graft- 
ing is  sometimes  practised  in  gardens  for  introducing  a  new  variety 
on  an  old  or  objectionable  kind. 

In  giving  a  list  of  varieties,  due  attention  has  been  paid  to  sorts 
designed  to  keep  the  family  supplied  for  a  greater  part  of  the  year. 
In  almost  every  locality,  there  are  varieties  which  do  particularly  well, 
and  which  are  general  favorites;  because  of  this  fact,  it  is  always 
well  before  planting,  to  inquire  from  some  of  the  older  settlers,  whom 
you  know  raise  good  fruit,  what  special  variety  succeeds  best  with 
them.  The  following  list,  however,  covers  a  wide  range,  and  the  va- 
rieties named  are  adaptable  for  general  planting.  Make  a  selection  for 
early,  medium  and  late. 

Early  Harvest.     Fruit  pale  yellow,  tender  and  good.    Bears  early.    Late 

July  and  August. 
Red  Astrachan.     Fruit  largely  covered  with  light  and  dark  red.     A 

good  early,  and  bears  young.    August  and  September. 
Sweet  Bough.     Fruit  greenish  yellow.     The  best  early  culinary  variety. 

August  and  September. 

Yellow  Transparent.     Fruit  clear  yellow;  tender,  juicy,  with  a  pleasant 
flavor.     July  and  August. 

Duchess  of  Oldenburgh.     Fruit  red  striped,  crisp,  tender,  juicy,  aro- 
matic.    A  good  culinary  variety.     Late  August  and  September. 

Cravens  FEIN.     Fruit  yellow  striped,  good  size,  attractive  appearance, 
excellent  quality.     September  to  November. 

ToLMAN  Sweet.     Fruit  pale  yellow,  decidedly  sweet.     A  good  dessert 
Apple.     November  to  January. 

{Continued  on  page  250) 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Growing   and  Training   Cordon  and   Espalier 
Fruit  Trees 

[Growing  fruit   trees  in    these   shapes  is  an  endless  source  of  delight  to  the 

gardener  and  we  recommend  giving  the  art  a  trial  if  only  commenced  with 

a  few  trees,  their  first  cost  being  but  a  trifle  and  the  reward  great.] 

Cordons  and  Espaliers  are  not  difficult  to  train  and,  by  following 
the  diagrams  shown  on  opposite  page,  nicely  grown  specimens  can 
soon  be  obtained.  Sometimes  a  young  tree  can  be  bent  down  to  form 
a  single  cordon,  thereby  saving  a  season's  growth,  but  a  double  cordon 
would  have  to  be  formed  the  first  year  as  shown  in  the  diagram. 

A  single  galvanized  wire,  anchored  firmly  at  each  end,  and  drawn 
tight,  standing  one  foot  above  the  ground,  is  necessary  to  support 
the  cordon,  the  height  being  a  matter  of  choice,  as  the  tree  can  be 
started  at  any  height  desired.  Should  the  young  tree  make  very 
strong  growths  these  should  be  shortened  back  in  Spring  and  care- 
fully watched  and  tied  to  ensure  a  straight  branch  when  new  growth 
commences. 

All  side  growth  should  be  pinched  back  in  June  or  July,  leaving 
three  or  four  leaves;  these  will  form  the  fruiting  spurs  later.  The 
spurs  should  not  be  allowed  to  crowd  or  weak  growth  will  result. 
The  trees  can  be  allowed  to  reach  each  other  and  are  easily  kept  within 
a  restricted  space.    They  come  into  bearing  early  and  produce  fine  fruit. 

An  espalier  is  an  amplified  cordon,  the  treatment  being  identical 
in  the  first  stage.  Branches  at  equal  distances  up  the  stem  look 
best,  and  three  good  growths  must  be  encouraged  at  the  first  pruning, 
two  for  lateral  branches,  and  one  for  a  continuation  of  the  main  stem; 
these  should  be  tied  and  kept  straight,  as  the  future  appearance  of 
the  tree  depends  upon  it. 

The  third  year  spurs  will  begin  to  form  on  the  lowest  branches, 
these  should  be  treated  the  same  as  those  on  the  cordons.  Fine  fruit 
will  reward  the  labor  bestowed  upon  them. 

Upright  or  obhque  cordons  consist  of  a  single  stem,  allowed  to 
grow  slowly  by  cutting  back  a  portion  of  the  matured  growth  each 
year  in  order  to  encourage  the  formation  of  fruiting  spurs  at  close 
intervals  all  up  the  stem.  The  side  shoots  should  be  treated  same 
as  for  single  or  double  horizontal  cordons,  but  a  straight  leading  shoot 
must  always  be  assured  for  the  continual  development  of  the  tree. 

These  may  be  planted  two  feet  apart,  against  a  fence,  building, 
or  wall,  or  to  cover  an  arch  in  the  fruit  garden. 

Espahers  may  be  trained  on  ordinary  garden  stakes,  4  to  5  ft.  high, 
placed  one  foot  apart;  or,  iron  rods  may  be  used,  or  an  ordinary  piece 
of  wire  fence,  in  fact  any  material  that  will  keep  the  young  growths  in 
the.  proper  position  during  training. 

229 


230  GARDEN  GUIDE 

(Continued  from  page  227) 

Maiden's  Blush.  Fruit  lemon  yellow  with  crimson  cheek;  very  attrac- 
tive.    September  to  November. 

Sutton  Beauty.  Fruit  attractive,  red,  fine  grained,  crisp.  A  good 
dessert  Apple.     November  to  March. 

Rhode  Island  Greening.  Fruit  green.  The  very  best  culinary  Apple. 
October  to  March. 

Baldwin.     Fruit  red.     The  well-known  Winter  Apple.    October  to  May. 

Northern  Spy.  Fruit  splashed  with  red;  very  cris,p;  of  fine  flavor.  De- 
cember to  June. 

Wagener.  Fruit  red,  large,  subacid.  An  Apple  of  superior  excellence. 
October  to  March. 

Siberian  Crab.  The  Grab  Apple  furnishes  a  most  delightful  j^ly;  none 
better.  It  is  also  ornamental  and  might  be  planted  where  non-fruit- 
ing trees  are  planted  now.  Other  Crab  Apples  are  Golden  Beauty, 
Hyslop,  Martha  and  Transcendent.     September  and  October. 

Jonathan.  Fruit  brilliant  red:  very  highly  flavored,  juicy,  fine  grained. 
October  to  March. 

McIntosh.  Fruit  bright  deep  red;  flesh  white;  juicy,  with  slight  acid 
flavor.     September  to  January. 

Stark.  Fruit  large,  round,  greenish  yellow,  with  red  stripes;  flesh  yellow, 
mildly  acid.     November  to  January. 

Williams.  Fruit  rich  dark  red;  large,  with  tender  crisp  white  flesh. 
July  to  August. 

apricots 

The  delicious  Apricot  should  be  grown  in  every  garden.  Bush 
plants  are  preferable,  as  being  a  very  slow  growing  tree,  it  requires  little 
pruning,  except  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  it  in  shape.  Flowering 
early  it  is  subject  to  injury  by  late  frosts,  but  the  fruit  sets  much  better 
in  a  cool  temperature. 

Culture  and  treatment  the  same  as  the  Peach.  The  varieties  are 
few,  but  the  very  best  are: 

Moore  Park     Rich  orange  color,  the  best,  ripening  in  August. 
Harris.     Deep  golden  yellow.     July. 

BLACKBERRIES 

The  culture  of  Blackberries  is  similar  to  the  directions  given  for 
Raspberries.  They  grow  stronger,  however,  and  require  more  room, 
and  owing  to  their  sharp  thorns  they  are  not  so  desirable  in  the  small 
garden.  Some  object  to  the  many  seeds  they  contain,  particularly^ 
if  grown  on  poor  soil,  but  a  few  varieties  are  almost  seedless:  ; 

Taylor.     Without  core  and  one  of  the  best. 
Erie.     Of  very  good  quahty. 
Iceberg.     Produces  white  berries  of  good  flavor. 


CHERRIES 


231 


CHERRIES 

Cherries  are  enjoyed  by  all;  even  the  birds  love  them,  but  as  they 
grow  in  such  abundance  there  are  usually  enough  for  all.  Early 
Cherries  are  a  great  temptation  to  birds,  and  a  shght  protection  with 
mosquito  netting  may  be  a  necessity.  The  sour  Cherries  come  later 
and  need  no  protection.  Cherries  are  not  particular  as  to  soil;  they  do 
well  in  a  good  sandy  loam. 

Rlack  aphis  always  attack  Cherry  trees  and  the  ends  of  the  new 
growths  are  frequently  covered  with  them,  but  a  good  hard  spraying 
with  Rlack  Leaf  40  will  usually  clean  them  off.  This  should  be  ap- 
plied as  soon  as  possible  after  the  fruit  is  set,  when  the  young  growth 
commences.     Cherries  mature  quickly  and  their  season  is  short. 

This  hst  of  varieties  include  the  favorites: 
Governor  Wood.     Light  yellow  and  red.     June. 


Standard  (or  tree)  Red  Currant 
This  form  of  bush  has  special  merits,  being  ornamental 
well  as  utilitarian 


Black  Tartarian. 

Large  purple.  June. 
May  Duke.   Large 

red,  juicy.     Early 

June. 

BiGARREAu.  One 
of  the  best.     July. 

CURRANTS 

Currants  are 
used  principally 
for  culinary  pur- 
poses, and  unless 
wanted  for  pre- 
serves, a  few 
plants  will  gener- 
ally be  sufficient 
for  ordinary  use. 
The  red  and  white 
varieties  are  the 
ones  usually 
grown,  but  some 
like  the  black,  and 
a  few  of  these 
should  be  includ- 
ed. The  reds  are 
the  most  popular, 
but  they  all  make 


£32 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


delicious  jelly;  the  black  particularly  so.  Served  on  the  table  freshly 
picked,  the  white  and  red,  mixed,  make  an  appetizing  dessert. 

Any  soil  of  a  medium  rich  nature  will  grow  good  Currants  and 
they  are  not  particular  as  to  situtation.  They  prefer  a  Hght,  open 
space  preferably  to  one  that  is  shaded  by  trees.  They  may  be  planted 
in  Spring  or  Fall,  and  must  be  attended  to  in  the  matter  of  pruning  to 
insure  a  good  crop  of  fruit  annually.  All  young  shoots  should  be 
pruned  back  about  half,  and  only  a  few  left  to  form  the  bush,  care  being 
taken  annually  to  remove  all  young  growth  which  springs  from  the 
base  of  the  bushes,  otherwise  they  will  get  too  thick  and  small  fruit 
will  result.  Standards  are  in  every  way  preferable  as  they  can  be  more 
easily  pruned  and  the  fruit  is  kept  up  out  of  the  dirt,  a  great  advantage 
on  sandy  soils. 

If  planted  four  feet  apart  they  will  soon 
grow  up  and  fill  the  space  between  each 
plant.  As  Currants  admit  of  hard  pruning, 
they  may  be  used  for  bordering  garden  walks, 
or  planted  against  fences  to  utilize  space, 
where  this  is  a  consideration. 

The  Currant  worm  is  one  of  the  worst 
pests  we  have  to  deal  with.  Powdered 
hellebore  dusted  on  the  plants  is  a  good 
remedy,  but  they  should  be  watched  for 
carefully  as  soon  as  the  fohage  appears,  and 
kept  destroyed  until  the  foliage  becomes  hard. 
Ordinary  road  dust,  air  slaked  Hme,  or  any 
fine    dust,    has    been    used    successfully    in 

destroying  the  Currant  worm,  but  it  should  be  applied  quite  early 
in  the  morning,  or  late  in  the  evening  when  the  foliage  is  damp  with 
dew;  it  is  then  very  evenly  distributed  and  most  effective.  There  is 
some  danger  in  using  a  liquid  insecticide  because  the  fruit  is  sinall  and 
it  is  almost  impossible  to  wash  off  all  traces  of  poison. 

Currants  are  usually  propagated  from  cuttings  made  of  the 
ripened  shoots,  and  root  quite  freely  if  put  in  during  the  Fall.  The  best 
varieties  are: 

Red. — Fay's  Prolific,  sweet,  large  and  very  productive.  Cherry,  large 
and  very  prolific.  Pomona,  a  new  variety;  keeps  long  after  getting 
ripe. 

Black: — Champion.     Berries  large,  of  good  quality      Boskoop  Grant. 

White. — Bar-le-duc,  White  Grape. 


Pruning  Currant  shoots 

1.     Twig    should    be    cut 

back  to  bud  as  shown  in 

Fig.  3.     No.  2  shows  torn 

snag 


DEWBERRY  233 

DEWBERRY 

These  follow  Strawberries  in  ripening  and  are  a  welcome  addi- 
tion to  the  list  of  early  fruit;  dehcious,  and  superior  to  Blackberries. 
The  vines  should  be  tied  to  a  wire  for  support  and  to  facilitate  gather- 
ing the  fruit.  The  young  growths  spread  on  the  ground  and,  after 
fruiting,  the  old  canes  should  be  cut  out  and  the  young  growths  tied 
in  their  place  and  thinned  to  prevent  overcrowding.  The  same  treat- 
ment required  as  for  Raspberries. 
LucRETiA.     The  best  variety;  fruit  large  and  handsome. 

GOOSEBERRIES 

This  luscious  fruit  is  not  much  grown,  but  serves  a  purpose  as  a 
cuhnary  fruit.  It  makes  a  good  subject  for  planting  between  plots,  as 
a  fence,  or  along  walks,  as  it  can  be  pruned  hard  and  kept  within 
limits,  trained  on  a  wire  fence  for  support.  Planting  may  be  done  in 
the  Fall  and  a  crop  of  fruit  can  be  had  the  first  year.  Very  httle  prun- 
ing is  required,  as  the  plants  usually  grow  short  jointed  wood,  and 
keeping  the  plants  thinned  out  so  that  the  fruit  may  have  exposure  to 
the  sun  and  air  is  all  the  pruning  necessary.  Like  Currants,  the  Goose- 
berry is  subject  to  the  attack  of  worms  (caterpillars),  which  soon 
denude  the  plants  of  foHage  and  make  then  unsightly,  as  well  as  pre- 
venting the  proper  maturity  of  the  fruit.  Dusting  with  powdered  helle- 
bore is  one  of  the  best  remedies  and  should  be  appHed  as  a  preventive 
as  soon  as  the  fohage  expands.  Mildew  often  attacks  the  Gooseberry 
and  causes  trouble,  but  spraying  with  a  solution  of  sulphuric  acid,  one 
part  to  one  thousand  parts  of  water,  will  control  this  disease.  It  may 
be  borne  in  mind  that  eight  teaspoonfuls  make  one  fluid  ounce,  IG  ozs. 
make  a  pint,  and  there  are  eight  pints  in  a  gallon.  A  teaspoonful  of 
sulphuric  acid  to  a  gallon  of  water  is  therefore  a  safe  amount. 

Propagation  of  the  Gooseberry  is  done  by  cuttings  of  the  ripened 
shoots.    The  following  varieties  are  each  good: 
Downing.     Large,  pale  green,  soft  and  juicy;  quite  prolific. 
Industry.     Large,  dark  red;  good  cropper. 
Red  Jacket.     Large,  red,  good  flavor. 
White  Lion.     One  of  the  finest. 

GRAPES 

Grapevines  may  be  trained  on  arbors,  pergolas,  fences,  buildings 
or  trees,  but  to  secure  the  most  and  the  best  fruit  trellises  are  desirable. 


234 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


The  simplest  trellis  is  the  Munson  or  canopy.    Erect  it  as  follows: 

Set  end  posts,  preferably  of  locust  or  red  cedar,  five  inches  in  diame- 
ter at  their  bases  so  as  to  be  below  the  "frost  hne."  Place  others,  three 
or  four  inches  in  diameter,  24  to  30  ft.  apart  in  the  rows.  Saw  the 
tops  off  square  at  4  to  5  ft.  above  ground.  Bore  a  small  hole  6  or  8  in. 
below  the  top  of  each  post  for  the  lowest  wire  (size  No.  11)  to  pass 
through.  Spike  or  wire  on  crosspieces  of  2  by  4  scantling  24  in.  long 
on  top  of  the  posts.  An  inch  from  their  outer  ends  saw  a  slot  half  an 
inch  deep  for  the  other  two  wires  to  rest  in.  Fasten  the  ends  of  the 
wires  firmly  to  one  end  post  but  loosely  to  the  other  so  they  may  be 
loosened  in  Winter  and  tightened  in  Summer.  The  trelhs  will  not  be 
needed  until  the  vines  are  a  year  or  two  old. 

When  the  vine  is  planted  cut  off  all  side  shoots  and  reduce  the 
main  cane  to  two  or  three  joints,  each  with  a  plump  bud.    When  young 

shoots  develop  tie 
them  to  stakes  5  or  6 
ft.  tall.  Tie  again 
during  Summer  when 
necessary  to  keep  the 
vines  off  the  ground. 
In  mid-Winter  cut  off 
all  side  shoots.  If  the 
main  cane  is  weak  cut 
it  back  to  15  to  20  in. 
and  manage  as  the 
first  season.  If  it  is 
sturdy,  tie  to  the 
lowest  wire  of  the 
trellis  and  cut  off  all 
above  this  wire.  To 
steady  the  cane,  coil  a  stout  cord  around  it  two  or  three  times  in  a 
spiral  and  fasten  to  the  base  of  the  vine  and  to  the  wire.  When  growth 
starts  in  Spring,  destroy  all  shoots  except  those  from  the  uppermost 
two  buds.  Train  these  in  opposite  directions  along  the  lowest  wire. 
Better  not  allow  any  fruit  to  develop  this  year  so  the  two  "arms" 
will  become  very  strong.  Allow  no  shoots  to  develop  below  these  arms 
on  the  main  trunk. 

In  the  second  mid-Winter  cut  off  all  side  shoots  and  shorten  the 
arms  or  main  canes  to  4  to  8  joints — few  for  weak  canes,  more  for 
strong  ones.  Each  bud  w  ill  produce  a  shoot  and  each  shoot  should  bear 
one  to  five  clusters  of  grapes.  As  the  shoots  grow,  raise  their  ends 
and  let  them  hang  over  the  upper  wires.   They  do  not  need  to  be  tied. 


^X^Y      /"-^^Vp;;^^ 

^^^^^-"^"^/V^^^^^^^ 

fe 

^-.^^^^^/^Ui^Z,^ 

"^/V 

Munson  System  of  Grape  Training. 
Vine  Unpruned.     Courtesy  Kentucky  Exp.  Station 


GRA.PES 


235 


Munson   System   of   Grape  Training. 
Vine  Pruned.  Courtesy  Kentucky  Exp.  Station 


Before  the  blossoms  open  decide  upon  two  sturdy  shoots  to  form  next 
year's  arms.  They  should  start  near  the  trunk.  Pinch  off  all  clusters 
of  fruit  on  them  to  make  them  strong.  At  the  same  time  shorten 
each  of  the  other  shoots  to  two  or  three  joints  beyond  the  outermost 
clusters.  In  a  couple  of  weeks  go  over  the  vines  again  and  cut  back 
to  one  or  two  joints  those 
shoots  missed  the  first 
time,  also  growths  that 
have  started  in  the  mean- 
time. 

In  the  third  mid- 
Winter  cut  each  of  the 
main  arms  an  inch  or  so 
above  the  two  sturdy  new 
arms  developed  previous 
Summer  and  remove  them 
and  all  their  shoots  from  the  treUis.  Take  care  not  to  injure  the  two 
new  arms  in  doing  this  work.  Shorten  these  arms  to  four  to  eight  or 
ten  joints.  Gently  braid  each  with  the  lowest  wire  to  right  and  left, 
respectively,  and  tie  firmly  in  two  or  three  places  to  the  wire.  During 
the  growing  season  proceed  as  in  the  previous  Summer,  except  that 
from  the  third  year  forward  you  may  allow  three  or  four  arms  to  de- 
velop instead  of  two  on  strong  vines. 

Grapes  dehght  in  a  well  drained  rich  soil.  Old  bones  are  excellent 
to  place  beneath  the  vines  before  planted.  Clean  cultivation  is  de- 
sirable. Set  strong  growing  Northern  varieties  10  ft.  apart,  small  ones 
6  or  8.    Southern  kinds  often  need  20  ft. 

Good  Northern  black  varieties  are:  Eumelan,  Worden,  Barry, 
Wilder,  Moore's  Early  and  Concord.  Red  ones:  Agawam,  Brighton, 
Brilhant,  Delaware,  Jefferson,  Salem,  Vergennes  and  Catawba.  White : 
Dutchess,  Empire,  Goethe,  Winchell  (or  Green  Mountain)  and  Prentiss. 
Popular  Southern  varieties  are  Scuppernong,  James  and  Herbemont. 


PEACHES 

To  those  in  the  warmer  parts  of  the  country  where  the  Winters 
are  not  too  severe,  a  few  Peach  trees  will  add  much  to  the  revenue  of 
the  garden,  and  who  does  not  like  Peaches  ?  They  can  be  served  in  so 
many  appetizing  ways.  The  Peach  is  not  a  long-hved  tree,  and  will 
not  produce  profitably  for  more  than  five  or  six  years.  After  the  fruit 
begins  to  get  small,  new  trees  had  much  better  be  planted. 


236  GARDEN  GUIDE 

Peaches  thrive  in  a  light,  well  drained  soil  and  preference  should 
be  given  to  a  northern  aspect,  as  this  tends  to  retard  the  date  of  flow- 
ering and  prevent  a  total  loss  of  the  crop  which  would  result  if  sub- 
jected to  a  freezing  temperature  while  the  trees  are  in  bloom.  At  best 
Peaches  are  a  precarious  crop  unless  well  protected  from  cutting  winds. 
During  Winter,  if  the  temperature  falls  to  ten  degrees  below  zero,  the 
blossom  buds  will  generally  be  killed  although  in  a  dormant  state,  and 
no  fruit  can  be  expected  under  such  conditions.  Peach  trees  come  into 
bearing  early,  and  for  this  reason  young  plants  should  be  selected  for 
planting  and  careful  attention  given  to  pruning  to  get  the  tree  into 
shape. 

Early  Fall  is  the  best  time  to  plant,  as  the  trees  have  a  chance 
to  get  rooted  a  little  before  the  ground  becomes  severely  frozen.  The 
roots  being  very  fine,  the  trees  should  be  planted  as  near  the  surface 
as  consistent  with  firm  and  seciu-e  planting,  and  a  stake  put  at  each 
tree,  if  necessary,  to  prevent  its  moving.  Peaches  like  the  ground 
around  them  cultivated,  and  much  better  fruit  will  result. 

They  require  little  pruning  except  to  cut  back  strong  growths,  and 
to  thin  out  if  the  branches  become  too  crowded.  Dwarf  standards 
are  preferable,  but  in  small  gardens  trees  can  be  trained  against  a 
building  or  on  a  fence.  Under  this  method  of  culture  they  produce 
fine  fruit,  and  ripening  is  assured  in  unfavorable  seasons. 

A'  spraying  with  arsenate  of  lead  will  check  any  tendency  of 
fungous  growth  if  done  while  the  leaves  are  quite  small;  if  done  after 
the  fruit  gains  size  the  woolly  down  which  covers  it  holds  the  spraying 
solution  and  may  cause  some  disfigurement.  Aphids  usually  attack 
the  young  leaves  and  if  planted  against  a  wall  frequent  severe  syring- 
ing with  force  enough  to  dislodge  the  insects  will  keep  them  in  check. 
A  solution  of  nicotine  may  be  used  eff'ectively  against  this  black  aphis, 
but  is  almost  sure  to  leave  a  stain  on  the  fruit  and  should  not  be 
applied  in  any  case  after  the  fruit  is  half  grown. 

Early  varieties  are  the  best  to  plant  as  the  season  is  none  too 
long  for  the  maturing  of  the  fruit. 

New  varieties  are  raised  from  seed  and  their  perpetuation  is 
secured  by  budding.  This  is  done  when  the  stock  is  quite  small  and 
usually  close  down  to  the  ground. 

The  best  kinds  are  those  which  are  known  to  do  well  in  partic- 
ular locahties,  but   those  named  are  known  to  be  generally  good, 
and  can  be  safely  recommended,  and  are  all  freestone  varieties: 
ALEXJV.NDER.     Medium  size,  white  flesh,  rich  flavor.     July. 
Belle  of  Georgia.     Large,  showy,  red  cheek;  flesh  white,  firm  and 

sweet.     August. 
Early  Crawford.     Large,  yeUow,  of  good  quality.    Early  September. 


PEACHES  237 

Hale's  Early.     Melting  and  rich  flavor.     August. 

Elberta.     Large,  yellow  with  red  cheek;  of  fine  quality.     September. 

Champion.     Very  large,  white  flesh;  very  productive.    August. 

PEARS 

Successful  Pear  culture  is  only  practicable  where  the  condition 
of  the  soil  permits  a  free  growth  of  wood.  The  trees  may  be  planted 
closer  together  than  in  the  case  of  Apples,  because  the  tendency  of 
the  Pear  tree  is  to  grow  tall  rather  than  to  spread  out.  Where  an 
Apple  orchard  is  planted,  Pear  trees  may  be  planted  between  the  rows 
until  the  Apple  trees  require  the  room,  when  they  should  be  cut  out 
rather  than  encroach  upon  the  room  allowed  for  the  Apple  trees. 
Pears  come  into  bearing  much  quicker  than  Apples,  and  the  trees  never 
assume  large  proportions.  It  is  well  to  bear  this  in  mind  when  plant- 
ing, but  a  small  Pear  tree  will  produce  liberally,  and  a  careful  selection 
of  varieties  will  give  a  long  season  of  fruit.  Pears  delight  in  a  heavy 
soil,  and  as  they  bloom  early  in  the  season  a  sheltered  position  should 
be  selected  where  some  protection  may  be  had  from  a  windbreak  of 
tall  evergreens  or  group  of  buildings,  or  from  the  natural  formation 
of  the  place  chosen,  such  as  the  shelter  afforded  by  a  hill.  The  tree 
should  be  planted  on  the  eastern  slope  when  many  are  to  be  grown,  but 
in  the  small  garden  pyramids  or  espaliers  should  be  used.  These  give 
the  best  results,  yielding  a  large  amount  of  fruit  in  a  restricted  space. 
Pears  respond  to  good  cultivation  and  will  stand  closer  pruning  than 
Apples.  The  tall  growing  varieties  should  have  the  heads  cut  hard  to 
prevent  the  trees  reaching  too  great  a  height,  which  makes  the  gather- 
ing of  the  fruit  difficult.  It  is  good  policy,  therefore,  to  keep  the  trees 
low  and  bushy.  Pears  make  spurs  freely,  and  in  pruning,  this  fact 
should  be  held  in  mind.  Encourage  a  free,  open,  branching  habit, 
and  prune  to  clothe  the  branches  with  fruit-bearing  spurs,  cutting  out 
all  superfluous  growth  at  the  Spring  pruning. 

Probably  the  worst  enemy  of  the  Pear  is  rust  and  fungus,  an 
attack  of  which  causes  the  fruit  to  grow  deformed  and  unsightly.  A 
frequent  spraying  with  arsenate  of  lead,  three  pounds  to  fifty  gallons 
of  water,  will  keep  the  foliage  and  fruit  in  good  condition.  This 
should  be  applied  immediately  after  the  blossoms  fall,  and  again  about 
three  weeks  later,  and  should  any  sign  of  fungous  growth  appear  later, 
another  spraying  should  be  given  to  insure  good  looking  fruit  and  a 
clean,  healthy  growth  to  the  trees. 

Pears  are  usually  grafted,  and  trees  can  be  purchased  much  more 
cheaply  than  they  can  be  grown  to  a  fruiting  age. 


238  GARDEN  GUIDE 

The  following  tried  and  popular  varieties  will  prove  a  valuable 
addition  to  the  garden: 

Clapp's  Favorite.  Large,  pale  yellow;  flesh  fine,  juicy  and  buttery. 
August. 

Bartlett.  a  very  popular  variety;  large,  shapely,  melting;  luscious 
flavor.     September. 

Seckel.     Fruit  small  but  very  sweet  and  melting.     One  of  the  best. 

KiEFFER.  Large;  golden  yellow  when  ripe;  juicy,  with  Quince  flavor. 
October  and  November. 

Sheldon.  Large,  russet  and  red;  aromatic  flavor;  rich  and  delicious. 
October  and  November. 

Beurre  d'ANJOu.  Large  and  handsome;  flesh  melting,  extra  fine.  No- 
vember. 

Pears  should  be  gathered  as  soon  as  the  seeds  are  black,  and 
stored  in  a  dry,  airy  room  until  fit  for  use. 

PLUMS 

No  garden  is  complete  without  a  few  Plums,  so  useful  for  table 
and  culinary  purposes.  The  Japanese  Plums  are  wonderful  bearers,  and 
produce  annually  large  quantities  of  fruit.  Their  abundance  makes 
it  necessary  to  thin  out  the  fruit  to  prevent  rotting  in  clusters  on  the 
branches.  Plums  are  not  particular  as  to  soil,  as  their  roots  spread  so 
much  nearer  the  surface  than  Apples  or  Pears,  and  any  fairly  good 
loamy  soil  that  is  well  drained  will  produce  fine  fruit,  but  cultivating 
around  tne  trees  is  very  beneficial.  Plant  early  in  the  Fall;  be  liberal 
with  the  spade,  make  large  holes,  spread  the  roots  out  evenly,  and 
plant  firmly. 

Plums  should  not  be  pruned  except  for  conserving  the  shape  of 
the  trees,  particularly  the  Japanese  varieties,  which  usually  grow 
very  strong  the  first  season,  and  pruning  back  is  a  temptation,  but  if 
pruned  they  only  produce  another  strong  growth.  If  left  alone 
they  will  form  fruit  buds  all  along  these  strong  growths  and  so  check 
excessive  vigor.  Plums  are  the  earliest  fruits  to  flower,  and  a  shel- 
tered position  should  be  given  them,  or  plant  them  on  a  northern 
exposure  where  the  buds  will  be  retarded  until  danger  of  freezing  is 
past.  Spraying  to  be  eff'ective,  should  be  done  very  early,  and  again 
as  soon  as  the  blossoms  fall,  because  the  fruit  is  eaten  without  removing 
the  skin.  Plums  intended  for  the  table  should  be  allowed  to  ripen 
fully  on  the  tree,  but  for  preserving  and  culinary  purposes  they  may 
be  gathered  earlier.  Should  Plums  insist  on  making  a  strong,  rank 
growth,  the  best  remedy  is  root  pruning.  Lift  the  trees  in  the  Fall 
and  shorten  back  all  strong  roots,  keeping  the  roots  exposed  as 
short  a  time  as  is  possible  to  complete  the  work. 


PLUMS  239 

Some  Plums  can  be  raised  successfully  from  seed,  the  Greengajre 
being  one  of  these;  but  they  arc  usually  budded  or  grafted  on  the  wild 
Plum  stock. 

The  curculio  is  the  worst  pest  we  have  to  deal  with,  and  the  only 
way  to  fight  this  insect  is  to  gather  up  all  the  fruit  which  falls  pre- 
maturely and  burn  it,  as  in  these  fallen  fruit  the  larvae  remain  until 
full  grown,  when  they  eat  their  way  out  and  enter  the  ground,  where 
they  change  into  the  pupa  state.  The  full  grown  beetle  emerges  in 
about  four  weeks  and  hides  under  the  bark  of  the  tree  or  some  other  pro- 
tection until  Spring  business  opens  up. 

Another  insect  which  sometimes  causes  trouble  is  aphis.  Spraying 
with  a  nicotine  solution  will  destroy  this  pest,  or  the  tops  of  the  young 
infested  growths  can  be  cut  off. 

Some  of  the  very  choicest  Plums  for  eating  are: 
Oullin's  Golden  Gage.     Large,  delicious  flavor.     August. 
Transparent  Gage.     Very  large,  round,  juicy  and  rich.    July. 
Greengage.     Medium  size,  round,   green,  rich.     August. 
Coe's  Golden  Drop.     Very  large,  golden  yellow,  rich  flavor.    September. 
VicTORL-v..     Large,  oval,  red.     Useful  for  every  purpose.     August. 
Magnum  Bonum.     Large  red.     Good  culinary  variety.     September. 

For  culinary  purposes:  Abundance,  Burbank,  Red  June,  Sat- 
suma  and  Wicks  on. 

LOGANBERRY 

A  few  plants  of  the  Loganberry  may  be  grown  as  a  useful  novelty. 
The  fruit  has  a  very  flat  taste,  but  looks  very  pretty  as  a  dessert,  on  the 
table.  There  should  be  no  reason  why  this  easil  y  cultivated  fruit,  which 
was  raised  by  a  Judge  Logan  in  California,  should  not  be  tried  in  many 
gardens.  In  England  it  has  become  a  general  f avori  te.  Its  treatment  in 
all  respects  is  similar  to  that  of  the  Raspberry. 

MELONS   •  See  Vegetables,  Chapter  XV 

QUINCE 

A  few  Quinces  are  desirable  in  the  small  garden,  and  a  tree  or  two 
will  usually  produce  sufficient  fruit  for  the  average  family.  Not  being 
an  edible  fruit,  it  is  used  only  for  canning  purposes,  and  makes  the 
most  delicious  jelly,  with  a  flavor  all  its  own. 

In  variety  there  is  not  much  choice,  but  that  known  as  Apple  or 
Orange  produces  large,  roundish  fruit,  of  a  bright  golden  color,  and  is 
very  productive,  even  when  quite  small. 

They  are  best  grown  in  bush  form. 


240  GARDEN  GUIDE 

RASPBERRIES 

The  popular  Raspberry  is  always  welcome  in  the  home,  and  only 
when  freshly  gathered  has  it  that  lovely  flavor  peculiar  to  this 
fruit  and  which  makes  it  so  desirable  in  the  home  garden.  Raspberries 
must  be  handled  with  the  greatest  care  or  the  fruit  will  become  bruised 
and  soon  ferment.  Small  baskets  should  be  used  when  picking,  to  pre- 
vent excessive  weight,  which  invariably  crushes  the  tender  berries,  and 
they  soon  become  unfit  for  use. 

The  plants  are  not  particular  about  the  kind  of  soil  they  grow  in, 
nor  the  location.  They  grow  best  in  a  good,  rich,  well  drained,  loamy, 
cultivated  garden  soil,  and  should  be  planted  in  rows  two  feet  apart 
and  four  feet  between  the  rows.  They  are  best  tied  to  a  wire  trellis 
for  support  and  to  facilitate  ease  in  gathering  the  fruit. 

The  young  growths  which  spring  from  the  base  of  the  plants, 
should  be  thinned  out  to  four  or  five,  and  after  the  season's  fruit  is 
over,  the  old  fruited  wood  should  be  cut  out  close  to  the  ground,  and 
the  young  shoots  given  every  chance  to  ripen  before  Winter  sets  in, 
when  they  may  be  tied  together  in  bimches  of  five  or  six  canes  and  left 
in  this  way  until  Spring,  when  they  must  be  tied  to  the  wires  and 
trimmed  evenly  along  the  top  to  make  them  look  neat. 

Raspberries  are  not  subject  to  much  trouble  from  insects  or 
diseases. 

They  are  propagated  by  division  of  the  roots  or  from  cuttings, 
which  should  be  taken  from  the  ripened  shoots  and  inserted  in  the 
ground  in  September,  and  will  commence  to  grow  the  following  Spring. 

There  are  red,  yellow  and  black  Raspberries,  but  the  red  varieties 
are  the  most  popular.    A  few  well  tried  varieties  follow: 
GuTHBERT.     Red,  large  and  sweet;  the  most  popular  of  all  Raspberries. 
Brand YwiNE.     A  large,  bright  red  berry;  a  good  cropper. 
Golden  Queen.     Large,  amber  color;  fine  quality. 
Cumberland.     Very  large,  black,  glossy  berries,  juicy  and  sweet. 

STRAWBERRIES 

No  garden  is  complete  without  Strawberries,  and  as  they  are  so 
easily  grown,  no  garden  should  be  without  them.  What  is  nicer  than 
a  dish  of  Strawberries  picked  fresh  from  your  own  garden  ?  Straw- 
berries like  a  rich  soil  and  well  repay  a  very  liberal  application  of  f  er- 
tihzer.  The  best  time  to  plant  a  bed  is  in  September,  when  the  young 
plants  are  just  ready.  Select  an  open  piece  of  ground  away  from  tall 
trees  or  shrubs;  dig  in  a  liberal  dressing  of  well  rotted  farmyard  manure. 


STRAWBERRIES 


241 


with  a  sprinkling  of  bonemeal,  and  in  this  plant  your  Strawberries  one 
foot  apart  in  the  rows  and  two  feet  between  the  rows. 

After  the  first  hard  frost  throw  over  them  some  light  protection — 
straw,  old  hay  or  anything  that  will  not  be  liable  to  pack  down  on  the 
plants  too  tightly.  The  object  of  this  covering  is  not  to  keep  the 
plants  from  the  cold,  but  to  protect  them  from  the  sun,  which  causes 
more  failures  than  the  cold.  This  covering  should  be  removed  after 
Spring  opens  up,  but  not  too  early,  as  a  little  growth  may  have  al- 
ready started,  and  if  exposed  to  a  late  frost  may  cause  much  injury. 
The  plants  which  will  have  become  loose  by  the  action  of  the  frost, 
should  be  gone  over  and  firmly  pressed  into  place,  the  beds  lightly 
forked  to  prevent  the  growth  of  weeds,  and  when  they  are  in  bloom, 
some  straw  or  salt  hay  should  be  placed  around  and  between  the 
plants  to  prevent  the  soil  from  splashing  on  the  ripe  fruit. 

To  lengthen  the  season  of  fruiting,  the  first  blossoms  may  be 
picked  from  some  of  the  plants,  and  these  will  fruit  about  three  weeks 
later.  Strawberries  are  sexual  and  bi-sexual,  that  is  to  say,  in  some 
the  flowers  have  pol- 
len and  seed  organs, 
in  others  only  one 
set  of  these.  To  in- 
sure fruiting  it  is 
necessary  to  plant 
some  of  each  kind, 
unless  the  bi-sexual 
varieties  alone  are  se- 
lected. A  bed  once 
planted  is  good  for 
at  least  three  years, 
when  it  should  be  re- 
newed. If  at  all  pos- 
sible start  a  new  bed 
one  year  before  the  old 

bed  is  to  be  destroyed.  Good  Sized  strawberries 

All  runners  should  be  cut  away  annually  as  soon  as  the  fruiting 
season  is  past,  unless  some  are  wanted  to  make  a  new  bed,  in  which 
case  the  strongest  plants  should  be  left  until  wanted  and  the  runner 
should  be  stopped  at  the  first  strong  plant  to  accelerate  rooting. 

Strawberries,  fortunately,  are  not  troubled  with  many  insect 
pests  or  fungous  diseases,  and  their  propagation  by  runners  is  very 
simple,  as  they  root  freely  of  their  own  accord  and  can  be  cut  off  and 
planted  where  they  are  to  remain. 


242  GARDEN  GUIDE 

There  are  many  fine  varieties  and  their  selection  is  largely  a  matter 
of  preference.  The  following  are  bi-sexual  and  are  all  good,  tested  sorts: 
Early. — Clyde,  Marshall,  Bederwood.  ^ 

Mid-season. — Abington,  McKinley,  Sharpless,  Nick  Ohmer. 
Late. — Commonwealth,  Gandy,  Brand ywine. 
Autumn   or    Perpetual. — Americus,    Progressive.      These    have    small 

fruit  and  very  little  of  it.    To  give  results  they  must  have  extra  care. 

Plan  for  an  Ideal  Fruit  Garden 

On  the  opposite  page  we  show  a  diagram  of  a  Fruit  Garden,  pre" 
pared  for  the  readers  of  "Garden  Guide"  by  Alfred  J.  Loveless,  one  o^ 
the  best  known  and  most  successful  garden  fruit  growers  in  the  United 
States.  This  fruit  garden  has  been  carefully  laid  out  so  as  to  get  the 
maximum  amount  of  fruit  from  a  minimum  of  space. 

The  garden  embraces  an  area  of  50  x  100  ft.  scaling.  If  it  is  not 
possible  to  give  this  much  area  to  a  distinctively  fruit  garden,  it  can  be 
modified  to  fit  requirements.  The  one  thing  essential  is  to  study  the 
plan  and  the  descriptive  matter  which  follows  so  as  to  arrive  at  the  ar- 
rangement by  species.  The  reader  can  then  modify  the  plan  to  suit 
his  own  requirements. 

Of  one  thing  you  can  rest  assured,  which  is  that  if  you  follow  the 
instructions  given  all  the  way  through  this  chapter  you  will  have  a 
fruit  garden  second  to  none. 

The  ten  squares  in  the  center  represent  areas  10  x  12  ft.  each.  No. 
1  is  devoted  to  Strawberries;  No.  2  to  Melons;  No.  3  to  Dewberries; 
Nos.  4  and  9  to  Raspberries;  Nos.  5  and  10  to  Blackberries;  No.  6  to 
Loganberries;  No.  7  to  Gooseberries;  No.  8  to  Red  Currants.  These 
will  stand  variation  to  meet  requirements. 

Key  to  area  surrounding  the  center  ten  sections: 


11  and  33 

Quince 

12-14-16-18 

Standard  Apples 

20  and  24 

Crab  Apple 

13-15-17-19 

Bush  or  Pyramid  Apples 

21-22-23-34-35 

Cherries 

25-27-29-31 

Standard  Peaches 

26-28-30-32 

Standard  Plums 

36  to  44 

Bush  or  Pyramid  Pears  (9) 

45  to  49 

Espalier  Apples  (5) 

50  to  58 

Bush  Peaches  and  Apricots  (9) 

59  to  74 

Cordon   Apples,   double  or   single,   trained 

low  on  a  single  wire  (15) 

75  to  90 

Grapes  (16) 

91  to  96 

Standard  Currants  (6) 

For  Fruit  Troubles,  see  Chapters  on  Insect  Pests  and  Diseases. 


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fence  or  wire  around  the  10  by  12  ft.  plol 
The  outside  of  the  fruit  garden  may  be 
t  be  trained  against  it,  as  the  larger  (8tan< 
il  the  shade  became  too  dense.     The  area 
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to  such  a  fence 
illustrate  meth 

CHAPTER  XVI 


Bungalow,  or  Mid-Summer 
Gardening 

ON  the  heels  of  an  increased  interest  in  country  life,  and  an  in- 
creased appreciation  of  what  it  offers,  there  has  come,  during 
recent  years,  a  noticeable  increase  in  the  custom  of  spending  one 
or  more  of  the  Summer  months  in  a  bungalow  up  in  the  mountains  or 
down  near  the  seashore.  For  families  that  live  in  cities  rather  than 
suburbs  or  small  towns,  and  that  are  unable  to  maintain  real  country 
homes  in  addition  to  their  flats  or  apartments,  this  arrangement  is  a 
god-send;  but  too  often  it  is  accompanied  by  inconveniences  which, 
accepted  as  unavoidable,  are  in  reahty,  entirely  unnecessary.  It  is 
commonly  expected,  for  instance,  that  unless  one's  bungalow  is  located 
close  to  a  friendly  farmer's  place,  or  a  large  central  hotel  or  boarding 
house,  there  can  be  no  hope  of  fresh  vegetables  during  the  vacation  and 
that  canned  goods  must  be  relied  upon  during  the  very  months  when 
the  permanent  country  dweller  is  revelling  in  fresh  picked  Peas,  Beans, 
Lettuce,  Tomatoes,  etc.  Then,  too,  the  idea  of  a  flower  garden  around 
a  bungalow  is  almost  unheard  of,  the  thought  being  that  unless  the 
Summer  sojourn  begins  in  April  or  early  May  it  is  impossible  to  pre- 
pare for  and  plant  flowers  that  will  bloom  before  Labor  Day  sees  the 
family  on  its  homeward  way.  How  can  one  arrange  so  that  this  shall 
not  be  the  case  ? 

One  way  is  to  have  someone  who  lives  nearby  get  the  ground  pre- 
pared and  the  seeds  planted  as  soon  as  need  be — say  in  April  or  early 
May — that  is,  providing  the  bungalow  site  is  within  convenient  reach 
of  a  community  where  such  labor  can  be  obtained.  However,  unless  it 
is  done  as  a  personal  favor  by  a  friend  or  acquaintance,  it  is  impossible 
to  guarantee  that  such  work  will  be  entirely  satisfactory  or  in  line  with 
the  wishes  of  the  occupants  of  the  bungalow.  Another  possible  plan 
sometimes,  is  to  visit  the  place  during  each  of  two  or  three  week-ends 
before  the  vacation  season  opens  and  do  all  the  preliminary  work  at 
these  odd  times.  This  involves  a  not  too  distant  location,  a  bungalow 
that  is  not  occupied  by  other  persons  previous  to  the  opening  of  the 
Summer  season,  and  an  owner  or  landlord  who  is  wilUng  to  have  the 
tenant  make  these  preparations  in  advance. 

The  commoner  and  simpler  course,  however,  is  to  put  all  the  effort 
into  a  real  Summer  garden — one  in  which  the  work  is  not  started  till 

244 


BUNGALOW  OR  MID-SUMMER  GARDENING        245 

the  middle  or  end  of  June,  and  from  which  results  are  wanted  as  soon 
as  possible  and  only  until  early  in  September.  As  can  easily  be  im- 
agined, the  methods  needed  to  obtain  these  results  are  not  necessarily 
such  as  will  do  the  garden  the  most  good  in  the  long  run;  in  other  words, 
they  are  temporary  both  in  effect  and  in  future  prospects.  Moreover, 
since  most  bungalow  sites  are  clearings  in  the  midst  of  woods,  or  scrubby, 
rocky  land,  the  spaces  available  for  gardening  are  likely  to  be  small, 
scattered  and  workable  only  with  hand  tools  and  not  with  wheel  hoes 
and  other  labor  savers.  The  aim,  in  short,  should  be  simply  to  get  the 
most  with  the  least  outlay  for  tools  the  smallest  waste  of  time,  etc. 

Fitting  the  Land 

There  being  no  opportunity  to  Fall  plow  or  manure  the  soil,  it  is 
usually  easiest  to  dig  up  the  sod  and  remove  it  (after  shaking  it  free  of 
all  the  soil  possible).  It  can  be  piled  away  somewhere  on  the  chance 
that  the  next  year's  occupant  of  the  bungalow  will  use  the  compost  it 
will  provide.  If  some  well  rotted  manure  can  be  obtained  and  dug 
in  so  much  the  better;  usually,  however,  it  is  necessary  to  rely  on  com- 
mercial fertilizer.  Fifty  or  100  pounds  of  a  ready  mixed  brand,  fairly 
rich  in  nitrogen  will  be  plenty  for  all  the  season's  gardening.  From  time  to 
time  wood  ashes  from  the  bungalow  range  and  fireplace  can  be  worked 
into  the  soil  with  benefit,  especially  if  it  is  of  a  heavy,  moist  nature 
tending  to  be  sour. 

Seeds  and  Plants 

While  some  crops  can  be  grown  to  maturity  from  seed  in  two  or 
three  months,  it  is  much  the  best  plan  to  buy  plants  of  as  many  sorts 
as  are  available  and  as  can  be  afforded.  '  hese  will  include,  among  the 
vegetables,  Cabbage,  Tomatoes,  Lettuce  and,  if  the  location  is  warm 
enough  and  sunny,  a  few  Peppers  and  Egg  Plant.  Some  of  these  crops 
would  doubtless  have  to  be  left  behind  at  the  end  of  the  season,  but 
enough  should  be  obtained  to  pay  for  the  trouble.  Of  the  vegetables 
that  it  will  not  pay  to  plant  at  all,  there  may  be  mentioned  Celery, 
Parsnips,  Oyster  Plant,  Potatoes  (unless  a  few  early  ones  can  be  started 
not  later  than  April  10),  Winter  Squash,  Watermelons,  Cauliflower, 
Leeks,  Onions  (from  seed),  Pumpkins,  late  Turnips  and  Cabbage. 

Vegetables  to  Grow  from  Seed 

Depending  on  weather  conditions,  the  following  may  be  started  as 
late  as  June  30,  while  some  of  them,  as  indicated  can  be  planted  sue- 


246  GARDEN  GUIDE 

cessively.    In  every  case  when  buying  seed  specify  the  earliest  varieties, 
that  is,  the  quickest  maturing  sorts  offered. 

Beans.     Bush,  stringless  green-pod,  or  snap.    Can  make  two  or  even  three 

plantings  at  intervals  of  a  week  or  ten  days. 
Beans.     Bush,  Wax  or  Yellow.     Same  as  preceding. 
Beans.     Bush  Limas. 
Beets.     Succession  planting  can  be  made  up  to  July  10th,  the  final  sowings 

can  be  harvested  for  greens  even  if  the  roots  don't  mature. 
Carrots.     Can  plant  until  about  July  5th. 

Corn.     Early  variety  planted  July  1st  may  be  ready  by  September  1st. 
Cucumbers.     In  warm  spot  may  ripen  some  fruits  by  August  15th. 
Onions.     Sets  may  be  planted  and  harvested  as  green  or  bunch  Onions. 
Peas.     If  season  and  location  are  cool,  a  planting  of  an  early  wrinkled 

sort  may  be  tried. 
Radishes.     If  cool,  the  earliest  sorts  may  be  used;  otherwise  plant  the  so- 
called  mid-Summer  varieties  only. 
Spinach.     This  is  another  crop  that  can  be  planted  if  the  weather  is  cool. 

Otherwise  use  only  the  New  Zealand  sort  which  thrives  in  hot  weather. 
Summer  Squash.     A  hill  or  two  may  ripen  some  fruits  before  September 

if  grown  rapidly  in  a  sunny  place  and  given  occasional  doses  of  manure 

water. 

Swiss  Chard.     Even  though  the  stalks  may  not  be  fully  grown  if  planted 
as  late  as  June  20th,  this  crop  should  give  fair  returns. 

In  harvesting  quick-season  crops  of  this  kind,  pick  as  soon  as  they 
are  big  enough  to  eat.  In  the  case  of  Beans,  etc.,  this  will  stimulate 
continued  production,  and  in  any  case  it  will  give  you  products  of  the 
finest,  tenderest  quality. 

Flowers  for  July  Planting 

If  you  are  able  to  put  some  money  into  Aster,  Pansy,  Salvia, 
Geranium  and  other  Summer  blooming  plants,  you  can  be  sure  of  a 
supply  of  blossoms.  But  even  if  you  have  to  start  seeds  there  are  several 
sorts  from  which,  under  fairly  favorable  conditions  you  should  be  able 
to  get  good  results.  Of  course  they  are  all  annuals.  There  may  be 
mentioned: 

Balsam.     White,  through  pink  to  red. 
Calliopsis.     Yellow. 
Candytuft.     White. 

Catchfly.     White,  through  pink  to  purple. 
CoB^A.     White  and  purple.    An  attr active  climber. 
Cornflower.     Blue. 
Gypsophila.     White  and  rose. 
Mignonette.     Yellowish  or  greenish  white. 


BUNGALOW  OR  MID-SUMMER  GARDENING         247 

Morning  Glory.     Various.  A  splendid  climber  for  screening,  covering 

trellises,  etc. 
Nasturtium.     YtJow,  orange  and  red  in  various  shades  and  combinations. 
Phlox.     White,  pink,  red. 
PoRTULACA.     White,  through  yellow  and  pink  to  purplish.     Good  for 

sandy  soils. 
Ten  Weeks  Stock.     White,  through  rose  to  crimson  and  purple. 

In  June  and  July  plantings  sow  seed  somewhat  deeper  than  in 
earlier  planting  so  that  the  roots  will  be  down  in  the  cooler,  moister, 
layer  of  soil,  unless  the  plants  can  be  kept  watered  whenever  necessary. 
A  Httle  nitrate  of  soda  dissolved  in  water  at  the  rate  of  an  ounce  to  a 
gallon  will  hasten  the  development  of  both  vegetables  and  flowers  alike. 
To  keep  the  plants  blooming,  pick  the  flowers  as  soon  as  they  appear, 
unless,  of  course  the  planting  has  been  made  for  its  mass  effect  out- 
doors. 


The  edging  is  Dwarf  Ageratum;  middle  row,  Mme.  Salleroi  Geraniums;  third 

row.  Zonal   Geraniums.     These,  with  the  vines  and  the  Geraniums  in   tubs 

impart  an  air  of  refinement  and  comfort  to  the  house  fronts 


CHAPTER  XVII 


Fertilizers 


Essential  Elements — Sources  of  Supply — Animal  Manures — 
Green  Manures — Commercial  Fertilizers — Bonemeal — Nitrate 
of  Soda — Poultry  Manure — Lime — Humus — Where  and  How 
to  Use  Fertilizers — Home  Mixing  of  Fertilizers — Suitable 
Fertilizers  for  Vegetables  and  Fruits — Fertilizing  Table — 
Scarcity  of  Stable  Manure — Some  Commercial  Fertilizers  in 
Common  Use. 


IT  is  incumbent  upon  every  gardener  that  he  or  she  should  have 
at  least  an  elementary  knowledge  of  fertilizers;  their  necessity, 
their  composition  and  their  use.  Prof.  Thos.  H.  White,  in  the 
chapter  which  follows,  has  given  in  clear,  concise  form,  this  necessary 
information  and  has  also  demonstrated  the  advisabihty  of  using 
certain  forms  of  fertilizers  for  defined  purposes.  We  might  add  that 
where  well  rotted  stable  manure  is  still  available,  it  will  fulfill  nearly 
all  garden  purposes  on  soil  that  has  been  kept  in  fair  cultivation.  For 
limited  areas  we  advise  consultation  with  and  direct  purchase  from 
your  seedman. 

Essential  Elements 

When  considering  the  cultivation  of  plants  it  is  highly  important 
that  some  thought  be  given  to  fertihzers.  Some  soils  are  naturally 
fertile,  others  are  very  infertile  and  need  judicious  fertilizing.  Trees 
and  shrubs  will  grow  very  well  on  soils  that  are  moderately  fertile, 
but  the  soft,  quick  growing  plants  of  the  garden  musthave  very  fertile 
soil.  This  is  especially  true  of  all  annual  plants  that  are  grown  from 
seed.  The  little  seedlings,  with  their  small,  tender  rootlets,  must  be 
properly  supplied  with  food  before  it  is  possible  for  them  to  make 
rapid  growth. 

Nearly  everything  that  is  in  the  air  or  on  the  earth  suppHes  some- 
thing, either  directly  or  indirectly,  to  the  soil  as  fertilizer.  All  organic 
substances,  that  is,  substances  which  have  or  have  had  life,  are  of 

248 


FERTILIZERS  249 

prime  importance  as  fertilizers.  The  inorganic  substances,  or  mineral 
elements  of  the  earth,  are  also  important  but  not  nearly  as  much  so  as 
the  organic.  The  basis  of  all  soil  is  mineral,  and  it  is  the  decay  of 
living  matter  upon  and  within  it  which  enriches  and  makes  it  capable 
of  producing  good  crops. 

The  oldest  forms  of  organic  fertilizers  were  the  remains  of  plants 
that  followed  each  other  on  the  earth's  surface.  After  these  came 
animal  excreta.  The  dead  bodies  also  of  the  animals  themselves  all 
helped  to  add  organic  matter  to  the  ground-up  rock  of  which  the 
soil  is  composed.  Material  that  is  of  organic  origin  is  very  beneficial 
to  the  life  of  the  soil.  Soil  is  not  exactly  what  it  appears  to  the  eye 
to  be;  simply  dead,  inert  matter.  In  fact,  if  there  is  any  organic 
material  in  it,  it  will  be  found  to  be  teeming  withhfe,  from  the  small 
bacterium  that  can  only  be  seen  under  the  highest  powered  microscope 
to  the  common  angle  worm  that  supplies  the  fisherman's  bait.  This 
life  of  the  soil  is  all  doing  its  part  in  changing  the  organic  matter  into 
such  shape  that  the  plants  may  use  it  for  food.  This  bacterial  and 
other  life  of  the  soil  all  require  just  the  right  amount  of  air,  water, 
minerals  and  organic  matter  in  order  that  they  may  carry  on  their 
important  work.  Some  of  the  most  important  of  these  are  the  nitri- 
fying organisms.  These  change  the  decaying  vegetable  matter  into 
such  form  that  it  can  be  dissolved  in  water  and  thus  be  taken 
up  by  the  plants.  Some  of  the  essential  elements  for  plant  growth 
are  calcium,  iron,  phosphorus,  potash,  magnesium,  sulpher,  silica  and 
nitrogen.  Most  soils  contain  enough  iron,  magnesia,  silica  and  sulphur, 
as  the  plants  use  very  little  of  these,  but  nitrogen,  phosphorus,  potash 
and  calcium  have  to  be  constantly  supplied  in  order  to  replace  that 
which  has  been  taken  out  by  the  plants  grown  upon  it.  Heavy  clay 
soils  contain  more  potash  than  the  sandy  soils.  V 

Sources  of  Supply 

There  are  three  main  sources  from  which  fertilizers  can  be 
obtained :  animal  manures,  green  manures,  and  commercial  fertilizers. 

Animal  Manures 

Animal  manures  of  all  kinds  are  what  are  called  complete  fertili- 
zers; this  means  that  they  supply  all  the  essential  elements  of  plant 
growth;  properly  saved  and  composted  so  that  the  strawy  material 
that  is  used  in  bedding  the  animals  is  well  decayed,  they  are  as  good  as 
anything  which  can  be  suppHed.  Since  the  advent  of  automobiles, 
however,  stable  manure  is  getting  scarce  and  difficult  to  obtain. 


250  GARDEN  GUIDE 

Green  Manures 

Green  manures  aire  so  named  because  they  are  plants  of  various 
kinds  that  are  grown  upon  the  soil,  preferably  when  no  other  crop 
could  occupy  it,  and  are  spaded  or  plowed  under  in  a  green  condition. 

Any  kind  of  plant  will  make  green  manure,  but  the  preference  is 
always  given  to  those  of  the  legume  family.  The  blossoms  of  plants  of 
this  family  are,  almost  all  of  them,  pea-like  in  character.  All  of  the 
Peas,  Beans,  and  Glovers  are  legumes.  Remarkable  characteristics  of 
these  plants  are  the  knots  or  tubercles  on  the  roots.  Bacteria  live  in 
these  tubercles  and  store  up  in  them  the  nitrogen  existing  in  the  form  of 
gas  in  the  air.  None  of  the  other  plants  but  those  of  the  legume 
family  take  nitrogen  from  the  air  and  store  it  in  the  soil.  If  any 
other  green  plants,  such  as  Rye,  Rape,  Kale  or  Turnips  are  used  for 
green  manure  they  simply  return  back  to  the  soil  what  they  have  taken 
from  it.  Even  then  they  are  of  great  benefit  as  they  help,  like  manure 
does,  to  bind  the  particles  of  sandy  soils  together  and  make  clay  soils 
friable.  They  also  furnish  organic  matter  which,  in  turn,  makes  humus 
that  is  of  great  value  in  holding  the  moisture  in  the  soil. 

Commercial  Fertilizers 

Commercial  fertiUzers  are  so  called  because  they  are  bought  and 
sold  and  gathered  together  from  all  parts  of  the  earth.  The  dung  of 
sea  bu-ds  that  had  collected  on  some  of  the  rocky  coasts  and  islands  of 
South  America  was  one  of  the  earliest  forms  of  commercial  fertilizers. 
It  is  called  guano.  Another  was  the  bones  of  animals  that  were  collected 
in  the  desert  places  of  the  world  and  brought  home  and  ground  into 
fine  dust.  Three  of  the  important  sources  of  the  present  day,  are  the 
phosphate  rocks  of  Tennessee,  Florida,  and  South  Carolina;  the  nitrate 
beds  of  Chili,  and  the  potash  mines  of  Germany.  The  slaughter  houses 
and  the  garbage  collected  in  the  large  cities  also  acjd  their  quota  to  the 
commercial  fertihzer  groups.  Other  materials,  such  as  the  meal  from 
Cotton  seed,  after  the  oil  has  been  pressed  out ;  the  bones  and  other  por- 
tions of  fish  after  the  oil  has  been  removed;  the  sulphate  of  ammonia 
that  is  a  by-product  in  the  manufacture  of  coke,  all  help  to  increase 
the  fertilizer  supply.  There  is  also  being  manufactured  at  the  present 
time  calcium  nitrate,  which  is  nitrogen  that  is  taken  from  the  air  (by 
means  of  electricity)  and  combined  with  lime. 

These  materials  are  all  used  and  are  apportioned  and  mixed  sa  as 
to  supply  varying  proportions  of  the  main  food  requirements  of  plants. 


FERTILIZERS  251 

Commercial  fertilizers  are  sold  under  the  inspection  of  the  state  chemists. 
They  are  sold  according  to  the  amounts  of  nitrogen  (ammonia),  phos- 
phoric acid  and  potash  which  they  contain.  The  dealers  have  found  that  it 
pays  to  make  up  special  brands  for  special  crops  containing  such  vary- 
ing amounts  of  the  three  important  elements  as  may  seem  to  be  of 
special  benefit  to  the  crop  to  be  grown.  They  are,  therefore,  put  up  in 
bags  and  labeled  with  special  reference  to  the  crop  they  are  suited  to. 

The  manuring  of  any  crop  must  always  be  with  reference  to  the 
fertility  of  the  piece  of  land  being  used.  If  the  soil  is  almost  devoid  of 
organic  matter  nothing  much  but  trees  and  shrubs  will  grow  upon  it 
and  these  make  but  poor  growth.  If  plenty  of  water  can  at  all  times 
be  supplied,  commercial  fertilizers  will  give  good  results  where  the  hu- 
mus content  of  thesoilislow,  but  under  ordinary  conditions  the  commer- 
cial fertiUzersdobest  where  there  is  an  abundance  of  organic  matter. 
It  is  always  advisable,  when  possible,  to  use  all  three  of  the  different 
kinds  of  fertilizers. 

The  most  expensive  element  in  fertilizers  is  the  nitrogen.  For  this 
reason  do  not  buy  cheap  or  low  priced  fertilizers.  Crops  like  early 
Potatoes,  Cabbage,  Lettuce,  Beets,  Tomatoes,  Sugar  Corn,  Spinach, 
Egg  Plant,  Peppers,  Melons,  Cucumbers  and  Squash  should  be  fertil- 
ized with  a  fertihzer  that  contains  at  least  five  per  cent,  of  nitrogen,, 
seven  or  eight  per  cent,  of  phosphoric  acid  and  five  or  six  per  cent,  of 
potash.  For  Beans  and  root  crops  and  all  fruit  trees  or  bushes,  fertili- 
zers containing  two  per  cent,  of  nitrogen,  eight  per  cent,  of  phosphoric 
acid  and  four  or  five  per  cent,  potash  will  be  found  good. 

Any  of  these  commercial  fertilizers  can  be  supplied  at  the  rate  of 
two  ounces  to  the  square  yard  of  land  before  planting  the  crop.  The 
material  should  be  well  mixed  in  with  the  soil.  If  the  land  is  quite 
poor,  and  has  had  no  other  manure,  the  same  amount  can  be  scattered 
over  the  soil  around  the  plants  when  they  are  half  grown,  and  hoed  or 
cultivated  in. 

Bonemeal 

Raw  animal  bonemeal  is  a  good  fertilizer.  It  contains  both  nitrogen 
and  phosphoric  acid  and  can  be  used  at  the  rate  of  a  quarter-pound  to 
the  square  yard.  This  is  a  good  fertilizer  to  keep  on  hand  as  it  does  not 
lose  its  value  by  being  stored.  It  is  quite  dry  and  if  kept  in  a  dry 
place,  it  will  not  get  into  hard  lumps  like  some  of  the  other  fertilizer 
ingredients.  It  is  somewhat  slower  in  its  action  than  a  fertilizer  made 
up  to  analyze  the  same  from  acid  phosphate  and  nitrate  of  soda. 


252  GARDEN  GUIDE 

Nitrate  of  Soda 

Nitrate  of  soda  is  valuable  to  use  alone,  or  it  can  be  mixed  with  its 
equal  weight  of  acid  phosphate  and  used  on  any  crops  where  tender- 
ness of  leaf  is  desirable.  It  should  be  used  as  a  top  dressing  at  the  rate 
of  one  ounce  to  the  square  yard  in  the  early  Spring,  and  again  when  the 
plants  are  half  grown. 

Most  of  these  fertilizers,  either  the  made  up  brands,  or  the  separate 
ingredients  can  be  purchased  at  the  seed  stores  in  large  cities  and  at 
general  stores  in  the  country  towns. 

Poultry  Manure 

Poultry  manure  can  be  used  effectively  in  the  garden.  It  is  a  com- 
plete fertilizer,  but  for  crops  hke  Potatoes, Turnips,  Beets,  Onions,  and 
Beans,  it  is  well  to  use  some  acid  phosphate  with  it.  Poultry  manure 
should  be  kept  dry  so  that  it  can  be  scattered  over  the  soil  at  the  rate 
of  one  pound  to  the  square  yard.  Acid  phosphate  can  be  mixed  with  it 
at  the  rate  of  twelve  pounds  to  the  hundred  of  poultry  manure,  or  ap- 
phed  directly  to  the  soil  along  with  the  poultry  manure  at  the  rate  of 
two  ounces  to  the  square  yard. 

Lime 

Calcium  or  lime  is  quite  valuable  in  gardens  where  green  manures 
are  used  considerably.  It  will  also  be  of  much  benefit  on  vacant  building 
lots  or  fields  intended  to  be  used  for  gardens.  Lime  can  now  be  obtained 
from  the  same  dealers  as  the  fertilizers,  either  in  the  form  of  ground  lime- 
stone or  hydrated  (slaked)  lime.  Both  of  these  forms  are  convenient 
to  apply.  The  hydrated  lime  is  quicklime  that  has  been  slaked  by  the 
action  of  steam.  It  is  quick  in  its  effect  and  should  be  used  at  the  rate 
of  half  a  pound  to  the  square  yard  of  freshly  plowed  or  dug  soil. 
The  ground  limestone  should  be  used  in  the  same  way  but  at  the  rate 
of  one  pound  to  the  square  yard.  Lime  is  used  to  "sweeten"  soil.  For  in- 
stance, some  soils  become  too  rich  owing  to  over-heavy  manuring. 
In  such  case,  the  manuring  should  stop  for  a  season  but  a  coating  of 
lime  should  be  given  instead.  This  of  itself,  is  not  a  fertilizer;  it  un- 
locks other  plant  food  that  is  in  the  soil,  making  it  available  for  the 
roots.  Lime  ought  not  to  be  apphed  along  with  manure  (dung),  but 
be  forked  in  early  in  the  Spring.  It  has  the  property  of  making  clay 
more  open  or  friable,  and  conversely,  of  firming  a  sandy  soil.  It  neu- 
tralizes the  acids  that  are  in  soils.    It  is  good  for  all  vegetable  soils. 


FERTILIZERS  25S 

Miscellaneous 

There  are  some  other  manures  on  the  market  that  are  handled 
more  especially  by  seedsmen  and  others  who  supply  greenhouse  men. 
These  are  the  dried  cattle,  hog  and  sheep  manures  that  are  collected  in 
cattle  pens  and  cars.  They  are  quite  valuable  in  promoting  plant  growth 
and  may  be  used  at  the  rate  of  half  a  pound  to  the  square  yard.  The 
rates  of  apphcation  given  here  are  moderate  and  safe.  Commercial 
fertilizers  should  always  be  carefully  weighed  and  not  guessed  at,  not  only 
for  the  sake  of  economy  but  for  the  fact  that  some  of  the  highly  concen- 
trated kinds  may  do  more  harm  than  good  if  applied  injudiciously. 
When  applying  as  a  top  dressing  avoid  spilling  the  fertilizers  on  the 
leaves  of  the  plants. 

Humus  as  a  Fertilizer 

Humus  is  the  name  given  by  gardeners  to  decomposing  vegetable 
matter.  In  many  ways  it  is  like  dung.  This  matter  may  comprise 
lawn  mowings,  leaves  from  deciduous  trees,  and  all  the  odds  and  ends 
of  vegetative  growth  that  one  cleans  up  or  gets  from  the  garden.  Too 
often  this  material  is  bundled  out  of  sight  or  pitched  away  as  useless. 
It  is  a  gold  mine.  Have  a  place  for  it  and  accumulate  all  you  can.  Turn 
it  over  once  or  twice  to  facilitate  rotting.  Every  Spring,  spread  it  on 
the  soil  and  dig  it  in  or  keep  it  in  reserve  for  particular  purposes.  If  the 
humus  heap  has  had  lime  applied,  it  will  be  still  better.  Whatever  has 
not  been  thoroughly  decomposed  can  be  held  back.  Humus  darkens 
soil  and  dark  soil  absorbs  the  warmth  of  the  sun.  Humus  holds 
moisture,  therefore  is  liked  by  the  roots.  It  opens  up  a  stiff  soil  and 
aerates  it.  Moreover  it  furnishes  an  essential  medium  for  the  bacteria 
that  teem  in  all  fertile  soils  and  which  manufacture  food  for  the  use  of 
the  plants.  It  is  invaluable,  and  many  derelict  soils  could  be  made 
to  yield  crops  if  humus  and  dung  were  apphed.  It  is  especially  val- 
able  on  sandy  soils. 

WHERE  AJND  HOW  TO  USE  FERTILIZERS 

The  animal  manures  from  the  stable,  those  from  the  horse,  cow  and 
pig,  can  be  spread  on  the  land  and  plowed  under  for  the  coarser  feeding 
crops,  such  as  Cabbage,  Corn,  Melons,  Squash,  etc.  Ten  or  twelve 
pounds  to  each  square  yard  would  be  a  fair  dressing  of  these  manures. 
Stable  manure  should  never  be  put  directly  on  land  upon  which  Pars- 
nips, Carrots  or  Salsify  are  to  be  planted.     It  will  invariably  induce 


254  GARDEN  GUIDE 

them  to  form  prongy,  inferior  roots.  These  crops  should  go  on  land 
that  was  manured  the  season  previously  or  else  be  fertilized  with  com- 
mercial fertilizer.  The  green  manures  can  be  sown  on  pieces  of  land 
which  would  otherwise  lay  bare  in  Winter.  Rye  is  the  latest  crop 
of  these  that  is  worth  while  to  plant;  this  can  be  sown  after  the  final 
crops  come  off,  just  before  freezing  weather.  The  clovers  and  Vetch 
must  be  sown  earlier.  Frequently,  this  is  done  at  the  last  cultivation 
that  is  given  to  the  later  Summer  crops;  such  as  Tomatoes  and  Sugar 
Corn.  Any  plants  that  are  planted  for  green  manures  should  be  plowed 
or  spaded  into  the  soil  early  in  the  season  while  they  are  soft  and  suc- 
culent for  much  of  the  value  of  the  green  manures  is  in  the  decayed  vege- 
table matter  it  supplies  to  the  soil.  The  process  of  decay  is  very  much 
more  rapid  if  the  material  is  turned  under  when  the  plant  is  quite  tender. 
This  is  especially  true  of  Rye.  If  the  Rye  gets  tall  and  woody  it  will  not 
decay  rapidly  enough  to  be  of  any  benefit  to  the  crop  following  it. 

Commercial  fertihzers  should  always  be  apphed  just  a  little  before 
planting  or  shortly  after  the  crop  gets  started.  The  elements  they  con- 
tain are  very  soluble  in  water  and  the  nitrogen  is  quite  easily  leached 
out  through  the  drainage.  On  account  of  this  solubility  care  should 
always  be  observed  in  applying  them.  Only  a  very  sHght  amount 
should  come  in  contact  with  the  germinating  seeds  so  it  is  always  best 
to  thoroughly  mix  them  with  the  soil.  The  fertilizing  of  the  garden 
with  commercial  fertilizers  is  not  so  complex  a  proposition  as  it  often 
appears  to  the  novice.  The  confusion  in  the  matter  has  come  about 
largely  through  there  being  such  a  multitude  of  brands  with  such  vary- 
ing percentages  of  nitrogen,  phoshporic  acid  and  potash.  There  are 
a  few  essentials  that  must  be  known  about  commercial  fertilizers;  after 
these  are  understood  the  rest  is  easy. 

Manufacturers  of  fertilizers  use  as  a  basis  for  most  of  their  goods 
the  phosphate  rock  which  has  been  dissolved  by  being  mixed  with 
sulphuric  acid.  To  this  is  added  tankage,  nitrate  of  soda,  muriate  or 
sulphate  of  potash,  dried  garbage,  or  any  other  material  that  has  high 
fertilizing  value.  It  is  then  all  ground  and  mixed  by  machinery,  after 
which  it  is  analyzed  by  the  chemist. 

All  fertilizer  manufacturers  have  certain  brands  that  are  put  out 
for  some  special  purpose;  such  as,  "special  corn  grower,"  or  "potato  fer- 
tilizer," or  "special  truck  crop  grower."  The  name  is  not  important 
but  the  percentage  of  nitrogen,  phosphoric  acid  and  potash  is  very 
much  so. 


FERTILIZERS  255 

HOME  MIXING  OF  FERTILIZERS 

If  it  is  of  any  advantage  to  mix  fertilizers  at  home  all  that  is 
needed  is  to  purchase  acid  phosphate,  nitrate  of  soda  and  tankage 
and,  when  it  can  be  obtained,  muriate  of  potash.  These  can  be  mixed 
so  as  to  supply  any  per  cent,  of  the  plant  food  essentials.  For  in- 
stance, one  hundred  pounds  of  acid  phosphate  contains  fourteen 
pounds  of  phosphoric  acid,  fifty  pounds  of  nitrate  of  soda  contains 
eight  pounds  of  nitrogen,  twenty-five  pounds  of  muriate  of  potash 
contains  twelve  pounds  of  potash,  and  twenty-five  pounds  of  eight 
per  cent,  tankage  contains  two  pounds  of  nitrogen.  This,  all  mixed 
together,  would  make  a  splendid  fertilizer  for  garden  crops  and  would 
contain  about  five  per  cent,  of  nitrogen,  seven  per  cent,  of  phosphoric 
acid,  and  six  per  cent,  of  potash. 

SCARCITY  OF  STABLE  MANURE 

Owing  to  the  almost  universal  use  of  automobiles  and  motor  trucks, 
the  rapidly  increasing  demand  for  farm  tractors,  and  the  consequent 
enormous  decrease  in  the  number  of  horses  employed  on  farms  and 
elsewhere,  the  supply  of  stable  manure  has  diminished  to  such  an 
extent  that  it  is  all  but  unobtainable  for  gardening,  or  even  farming 
purposes.  Well-rotted  manure,  so  generally  advocated  in  "Cultural 
Directions"  as  a  means  of  increasing  soil  productiveness,  has  therefore 
been  largely  supplanted  by  commercial  fertilizers,  upon  which  raisers 
of  crops  will,  mainly,  have  to  rely  to  meet  their  needs  in  the  future. 
As  an  all-round  soil-improving  material  stable  manure  is  particularly 
effective,  but  it  is  now  well  estabhshed  that  land  may  be  enriched  with- 
out its  use,  providing  the  humus  element  in  the  soil  is  maintained  and 
commercial  fertilizers  are  carefully  selected  and  judiciously  applied. 
See  "Humus  as  a  Fertihzer,"  on   page  253. 


MESSAGES  OF  FLOWERS,  OR  THEIR  FLORAL  CODE  AND  DIC- 
TIONARY, by  George  H.  I'Neill.  Lovers  of  flowers  and  their  lore  will  find 
a  treasure  house  in  this  interesting  and  comprehensive  manual  which  gives  the 
language  of  flowers  and  a  variety  of  other  information.  Paper,  postpaid  35c.; 
cloth,  postpaid  $1 .00.    Secure  your  copy  where  you  bought  your  Garden  Guide. 


Always  consult  Index  of  Contents.    Familiarize  yourself  with  it.    There 

are  hundreds  of  good  things  in  this  book  that  will  escape  your  attention 

if  you  do  not  use  the  Index  freely. 


256 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


SOME  COMMERCIAL  FERTILIZERS  IN 
COMMON    USE 

The  appended  list  will  serve  as  a  helpful  guide  to  gardeners  when 
the  season  calls  for  the  application  of  fertilizers  to  the  soil.  Directions 
are  usually  labeled  on  fertilizer  packages.  As  a  general  rule  the  use  of 
commercial  fertilizers  is  advocated  only  when  a  plentiful  supply  of  good 
stable  manure  is  not  available.  In  some  cases,  however,  the  addition 
of  a  commercial  or  chemical  fertilizer  will  prove  advantageous. 


Ashes,  Hard-  I     Unleached    hardwood    ashes    contain    potash    and 

WOOD  I         lime  and  are  valuable  both  as  a  fertilizer  and  as  a 

means  of  destroying  some  insects  and  controlling 


diseases.  They  are  an  excellent  top  dressing  for 
lawns. 

Blood,  Dried         |     Rapidly  soluble,  therefore  quickly  beneficial;  valu- 
1         able  for  all  vegetable  crops.    Essentially  a  nitro- 
1          genous  fertilizer. 

Blood  and  Bone    |     A  high-grade,  well-balanced  fertilizer,  of  consider- 
i         able  value  for  all  garden  purposes. 

BoNEMEAL                     Decomposes  rather  slowly  and  is  therefore  of  lasting 
benefit,     A  safe  and  effective  source  of  potash 
and  phosphoric  acid. 

Bone,  Cracked 

For  Grapevines,  fruit  trees  and  shrubs  of  all  kinds. 
Apply  when  planting  out  and  mix  well  with  the 
soil  to  a  depth  of  a  foot  or  more. 

Cattle  Manure, 
Shredded 

For  general  fertilizing;  good  to  mix  with  com- 
post. 

Complete  Fer-           Various  brands  are  procurable  from  most  dealers. 
TiLizERS                         They  combine  the  essential  plant  food  elements 
1         in  convenient  form,  which  justifies  their  increased 
1         price  over  the  materials  if  bought  separately. 

Horse  Manure,          A  general  all-round  soil  enricher;  promotes  rapid. 
Dried                             steady  growth. 

Humus 


Land  Plaster        | 


Humus,  rotted  vegetable  matter,  valuable  for  its 
beneficial  effect  on  the  physical  condition  of  soils, 
especially  sandy  ones.  (See  "Humus  as  a  Fer- 
tilizer" on  another  page.)  Various  brands  are 
offered.  They  are  handy  for  making  rich,  light 
potting  soil,  compost,  etc. 

Of  value  as  an  absorbent  of  liquid  manures  in  stable; 
also  as  an  insecticide  for  Cucumber,  Melon  and 
Squash  pests.    Has  no  plant  food  value. 


COMMERCIAL  FERTILIZERS 


257 


Lime 


Neutralizes  the  acidity  of  soils  and  increases  avail- 
ability of  plant  food.  Apply  as  far  in  advance  of 
planting  as  possible.  A  few  crops  are  injured 
by  its  presence. 


Nitrate  of  Soda    I 

I 


An  active,  quickly  soluble,  nitrogenous  fertilizer, 
stimulating  the  leaf  growth.  Can  be  used  alone 
as  top  dressing  or  in  solution,  or  mixed  with  other 
fertilizers.  Use  at  rate  of  one  ounce  per  square 
yard;  work  well  into  soil  and  keep  off  foliage. 


Phosphate 


Potash,  Muriate  | 
and  Sulphate     | 


Name  sometimes  given  to  any  commercial  fertilizer, 
but  strictly  some  form  of  ground  phosphatic  rock; 
and  phosphate  is  the  most  soluble  form.  Pro- 
motes seed  development  and  fruit  development. 

Two  closely  similar  sources  of  the  essential  element, 
potassium,  needed  for  the  best  development  of 
I         all  crops. 

Salt,  Agrigul-        |     Used  as  a  top  dressing  for  Asparagus  beds  in  the 
TURAL  I  Spring.     Also  a  good  weed  killer. 


Sheep  Manure 


A  popular  natural  manure,  dried  and  pulverized 
for  easy  handling.  Gives  good  results  in  the 
vegetable  garden  and  as  lawn  dressing.  Makes 
a  rich  liquid  manure. 


Soot,  Scotch 


Stimulates  growth,  improves  color  of  foliage  and 
flowers  and  is  an  effective  remedy  for  slugs, 
grubs  and  cutworms. 


Sulphate  of 
Ammonia 


A  soluble,  quick-acting,  nitrogen  carrier,  not  greatly 
different  from  nitrate  of  soda  and  used  like  it. 


FERTILIZING  TABLE 

Dealers  in  cataloguing  fertilizers  generally  advise  the  application 
of  a  given  quantity  per  acre.  As  this  often  puzzles  persons  who  have 
only  a  small  garden  to  cultivate,  the  following  table  will  prove  useful : 


Quantity      Equivalent 
per  acre     per  10  sq.  ft. 

100  lbs y3  0z. 

200  lbs 3,|oz. 

300  lbs iViooz. 

400  lbs 13^  oz. 

500  lbs iVsoz. 

600  lbs 2y5  0z. 

700  lbs 2)^oz. 


Quantity  Equivalent 
per  acre     per  10  sq.  ft. 

800  lbs 3      oz. 

900  lbs 3V3  0Z. 

1,000  lbs 32/3OZ. 

1,100  lbs 4      oz. 

1,200  lbs 4%ozo 

1,300  lbs 4^oz. 

1,400  lbs 5Vr  oz. 


Quantity     Equivalent 
per  acre     per  10  sq.  ft. 

1,500  lbs 5H  oz. 

1,600  lbs 5%ooz. 

1,700  lbs 6M0Z. 

1,800  lbs 6%oz. 

1,900  lbs 7      oz. 

Ton 7y3  0z. 


258 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


SUITABLE  FERTILIZERS  FOR  VEGETABLES 
AND  FRUITS 

The  table  shows  some  of  the  important  vegetables  and  fruits  arranged 
in  groups  with  the  suitable  fertilizers  for  any  vegetable  in  the  group.  Any 
one  or  all  three  of  the  different  fertilizers  can  be  used.  If  all  three  are  used 
take  one-third  of  each  or,  if  two  are  used,  one-half  of  each. 


Name  of 
Vegetable 

Suitable 
Fertilizers 

Rate  per 
Square  Yard 

When 
Applied 

Corn 
Cabbage 
Cauliflower 
Egg  Plant 

Stable  manure 

or 

Poultry  manure 

or 
Commercial     fertilizer 
containing:  nitrogen 
5%,  phosphoric  acid 
8%  and  potash  4% 

10  or  12 
pounds 

Before    plowing 
or  digging 

Tomato 

1  pound 

After  plowing 

Lettuce 

Peas 

Squash 

Celery 

Melons 

2  ounces 

Just  before 
planting 

Potatoes 
Turnips 

Stable  manure 

or 

Poultry  manure 

?^ 
Commercial    fertilizer, 

nitrogen  2%,    phos- 
phoric acid  8%,  pot- 
ash 4% 

10  or  12 
pounds 

Before    plowing 
for  previous 

Radish 

1  pound 

crops 

Beans 

Parsnips 

Onions 

Carrots 

Salsify 

Beets 

2  ounces 

Just  before 
planting 

Grapes 

Currants 

Gooseberries 

Stable  manure 

or 

Poultry  manure 

or  Commercial  fertili- 
zer:    nitrogen     4%, 
phosphoric  acid  8%, 
potash  4%. 

10  or  12 
pounds 

Between    the 
rows  in  Winter 

Rhubarb 

1  pound 

Strawberries 
Asparagus 

2  ounces 

Just  before  cul- 
tivation com- 
mences in  the 
Spring 

Green  Manure — Last  cultivation 


For  a  complete  work  on  the  subject  of  this 
chapter  we  would  recommend 
MANURES  AND  FERTILIZERS,  by  H.  J.  Wheeler.  A  clear  and 
unusually  full  discussion  of  the  practical  utilization  of  manures  and  fertilizers 
of  all  kinds,  and  of  their  relations  to  the  plant  and  to  the  soil.  Cloth,  illus- 
trated. Price,  $1.90  postpaid.  Secure  your  copies  where  you  bought  your 
Garden  Guide. 


CHAPTER  XVIII 


Pruning 


Its  Advantage — Pruning  Briers  and  Roses  for  Landscape  Effect — 

Climbing  and    Polyantha    Roses — Hybrid    Perpetuals — Hybrid 

Teas  —  Shrubs — Hedges  —  Fruit  Trees  —  Evergreens — List  of 

Subjects    with    Pruning    Instructions 

PRUNING,  when  practiced  properly,  is  an  aid  to  trees  and  shrubs. 
It  not  only  stimulates  growth,  but  increases  fruitfuhiess  at  cer- 
tain seasons;  it  keeps  the  plant  full  of  healthy,  disease-resistant 
growth,  and  gives  us  the  privilege  of  changing  the  habit.  We  do  ad- 
mire symmetrical,  dense  trees,  graceful  shrubs  or  stocky  hedges,  all 
of  which  are  maintained  by  pruning.  Many  times  we  even  admire 
the  picturesque  results  that  can  be  obtained  by  making  a  tree  ^ow 
out  of  its  natural  development.  Pruning  does  stimulate  growth  be- 
cause it  tends  to  send  the  energy  to  the  part  of  the  plant  in  which  it  is 
most  wanted.  It  is  well  known  that  a  pruned  plant  inclines  to  resume 
its  natural  habit  and  that  there  is  always  a  tendency  to  grow  from 
upper  buds.  Checking  growth  ususally  causes  an  increase  in  flower 
production. 

What  Pruning  Includes 

Besides  the  general  removal  of  large  branches,  pruning  includes 
the  process  of  pinching,  or  removing  undeveloped  eyes  to  check  growth 
in  a  certain  direction;  trimming,  shortening  top  and  roots  at  trans- 
planting; topping,  removing  the  leader  or  a  flower  stalk  to  retain  the 
energy  in  the  plant  rather  than  in  making  a  strong  leader  or  seeds; 
suckering,  the  removing  of  shoots  at  base  of  plant  to  throw  the  strength 
into  the  plant  itself.  This  would  include  the  cutting  of  shoots  from 
the  stock  in  grafted  plants;  disbudding,  removing  of  small  buds  at 
sides  of  main  ones  to  throw  the  food  into  the  perfect  production  of 
the  larger  flower ;  ringing,  the  cutting  out  of  a  narrow  ring  of  bark  from 
a  branch  of  a  tree  (in  the  case  of  fruit  the  result  is  the  production  of  a 
large  specimen  due  to  the  fact  that  the  food  is  all  kept  at  the  place  be- 
yond the  ring) ;  root-pruning,  the  cutting  of  roots  at  planting  time  so 
that  they  may  be  symmetrical  and  have  clean,  undecayed  surfaces,  but 
the  top  must  always  be  shortened  proportionately  when  this  is  done; 
sprouting,  the  cutting  out  of  all  sterile,  unfruitful  branches,  which  are 
usually  called  water  sprouts. 

2fi0 


260 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Roses 

If  we  observe  Rose  bushes  we  will  be  able  to  see  that  they  bloom 
from  what  were  the  strong  shoots  the  previous  season,  and  that  these 
shoots  become  weaker  when  another  shoot  begins  to  grow  lower  down. 
There  is  an  annual  renewal  of  wood,  therefore,  and  this  is  why 
pruning  is  necessary.  Most  Roses  must  be  pruned  severely  at  planting. 
Some  climbers  are  ruined  from  the  start  by  too  httle  pruning.  In  order 
to  keep  the  bushes  opened  nicely,  the  cut  must  always  be  made  to  an 
outside  bud.  Take  care  not  to  leave  stubs  above  a  bud  either; 
the  tips  always  die  back  and  may  die  back  farther  than  preferred. 


Briers  and  Roses  for  Landscape  Effect 

Those  Roses  which  are  to  be  seen  in  mass  and  with  which  a  pro- 
fusion of  bloom  is  to  be  perf erred  to  a  few  slightly  larger  blooms  should 
be  pruned  but  little.  The  main  work  is  to  improve  the  shape  of  the  bush 
and  cut  out  the  very  oldest  wood.  Wood  which  has  flowered  year  after 
year  should  be  cut  out  from  the  base  of  the  plant  so  that  the  younger 
shoots  may  be  given  a  chance.    Prune  in  March. 


Climbing  and  Polyantha 
Roses 

Little  pruning  is  necessary  in  Spring 
except  to  cut  out  any  branches  which 
have  been  killed.  The  old  wood  can 
usually  be  gradually  removed  year  after 
year.  All  new  canes  should  be  care- 
fully tied  up.    Prune  in  March. 

Hybrid  Perpetuals 

Various  soils  and  climates  cause  the 
Hybrid  Perpetuals  to  be  either  very  tall 
bushes  or,  in  other  localities  only  to 
attain  a  height  of  three  feet.  The 
varieties  differ  greatly  in  height  and 
amount  of  pruning  needed.  The  weak- 
est shoots  should  be  pruned  the  most 
severely;  in  the  same  way' the  strong- 
est varieties  need  the  least  pruning. 
Never  leave  a  weak  shoot.  Care  must 
be  exercised  that  all  shoots   are  not 


V   \  U 


Pruning  a  Dwarf  Rose 

The  dotted  lines  show  the  growth 
or  stems  that  are  to  be  cut  away. 
As  a  rule  amateur  gardeners  are 
too  much  afraid  to  prune  hard. 
"The  weaker  the  growth  the 
harder  the  pruning,"  is  a  fairly 
safe  rule  to   follow 


PRUNING 


261 


pruned  to  the  same  height.  Prune  early  in  Spring  for  main  pruning, 
because  the  shoots  are  apt  to  freeze  back  if  done  in  Fall  or  Winter. 
The  canes  of  the  strongest  varieties,  which  may  be  eight  or  nine  feet 


Pruning  Shrubs 

1,  An  unpruned  example.    2,  Pruned  so  that  all  the  branches  are  of  equal  length.    This 

is  improper  but  all  too  commonly  practiced.     3,  Growths  thinned  out  and  shortened. 

This  is  the  correct  method.     It  is  the  same  shrub  in  each  case 


long,  should  be  shortened  a  third  in  Autumn  to  prevent  the  injurious 
whipping  by  the  Autumn  winds. 


Hybrid  Teas 

The  Hybrid  Teas  should  hardly  be  pruned  as  severely  as  the 
Hybrid  Perpetuals,  otherwise  the  treatment  is  the  same. 


262  GARDEN  GUIDE 

The  Teas 

The  Teas  often  freeze  back  to  the  soil ;  if  so,  remove  all  wood  which  is 
the  least  bit  browned.  Take  care  to  prune  very  severely ;  the  plants  will 
appreciate  it  and  reciprocate  by  producing  good  blooms.  All  shoots  which 
live  through  the  Winter  should  be  shortened  one  third.  Never  make 
the  mistake  of  thinking  that  there  is  so  little  bush  left  that  it  will  be 
best  not  to  prune  at  all.  Nothing  could  be  more  faulty.  Teas  must 
be  carefully  watched  for  suckers  from  the  stock,  which  should  be  re- 
moved from  their  point  of  origin.  The  leaflets  of  the  grafted  stock  are 
often  paler  green  and  hot  so  glossy,  and  have  five  to  seven  leaflets,  in- 
stead of  three  to  five,  as  with  many  varieties.  Never  prune  before  eyes 
start  because  some  may  be  frozen  back  if  done  too  early. 

Shrubs 

There  are  essentially  two  classes  of  shrubs — the  Spring  and  the 
Summer  blooming  ones.  Those  which  bloom  in  the  Spring  have  their 
flower  buds  all  formed  on  the  bushes  by  the  previous  Autumn;  they  are 
usuaUy  near  the  top  of  the  plant.  Any  pruning  in  late  Winter  or  early 
Spring  causes  a  removal  of  these  flowers. 

The  most  pernicious  habit  is  the  one  which  so  many  enthusiastic 
gardeners  have  of  pruning  everything  in  the  Spring,  and  not  only  that, 
but  making  the  graceful  Barberries,  Spiraeas  and  Mock  Oranges  into 
formal,  stiff  shapes,  due  entirely  to  cutting  their  bushes  with  shoots 
all  the  same  length. 

Many  Spiraeas  and  Golden  Bells  never  bloom  well,  while  the 
Hydrangea  blooms  perfectly,  merely  because  every  one  prunes  in  the 
early  Spring,  which  is  not  at  all  the  proper  time  for,  say  Golden  Bells, 
but  exactly  proper  for  Hydrangeas.  Spring  blooming  shrubs  must  be 
headed  in  a  trifle  after  flowering,  which  will  cause  the  production  of 
flowering  wood  for  another  year. 

Hedges 

A  hedge,  in  order  to  give  the  best  light  conditions  to  the  lower 
branches,  should  be  broad  at  the  bottom  and  narrower  at  the  top.  It  is 
best  not  to  be  flat  on  top  for  snow  quickly  lodges  in  this  sort  of  hedge 
and  spreads  it  so  that  the  true  beauty  is  spoiled.  Hedges  should  be 
trimmed  before  growth  starts  in  the  Spring  and  again  lightly  in  late 
Sunmier  or  Fall.    The  young  growth  is  best  kept  its  proper  length 


PRUNING 


26S 


before  it  grows  very  long,  otherwise  the  cut  ends  of  the  branches  are 
large  and  over  conspicuous. 

Fruit  Trees 

In  pruning  fruit  trees  for  home  grounds  there  should  be  an  effort 
to  keep  them  always  low  headed  and  open.  This  means  that  from  the 
start  the  branches  should  be  encouraged  to  grow  out  from  the  main 
trunk.  Avoid  allowing  the  branches  to  start  so  that  a  crotch  is  formed 
and  have  them  distributed  around  the  tree  so  that  when  they  beai  fruit 
there  will  be  a  natural  balance.  As  the  years  pass,  less  pruning  is 
necessary  on  fruit  trees,  except  to  keep  the  center  open  so  that  some 
light  can  get  in  to  color  the  fruit.  Dead  or  crowded  branches  must  be 
removed.  Any  appearance  of  disease  is  better  cut  out  than  any  treat- 
ment that  can  be  given  it.  A  tree  once  in  good  bearing  condition 
seldom  needs  extensive  pruning. 


Young  Trees  Pruned 

One  at  the  left  pruned  properly,  the  head 

started   low   and   branches   well  distributed. 

One  at  right — head  too  high,  branches  form 

a  crotch  and  tree  is  not  balanced 

Pruning  a  Limb 

a,  Branch  cut  off  too  long,     b,  The  branch  (a)  after  several  years,  has  died  back  but 

cannot  heal,    c,  A  branch  cut'properly.    d,  A  branch  which  is  cut  so  that  a  little  pocket 

is  left  in  which  water  can  settle  and  cause  decay,    e,  A  wound  heaUng  properly,     f,  A 

branch    being    strangled    by    a    wire-tie 


264 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Evergreens 

Evergreens  need  little  pruning  except  to  correct  any  lack  of 
uniformity  of  growth.  Many  times  in  Pines,  among  the  young  growths 
some  appear  to  be  away  ahead  of  others;  if  care  is  exercised  they  may 
be  slightly  pinched  to  check  growth  in  that  direction.  Even  if  the 
leader  of  Spruces  or  Firs  is  lost,  they  seem  capable  of  making  a  new 
one.  If,  however,  these  and  other  conifers  whose  leaders  having  lost 
their  terminal  buds  fail  to  develop  naturally,  a  new  leader  can  often 
be  made  to  replace  one  lost  by  taking  a  top  branch,  bending  it  to  a 
vertical  position  and  maintaining  it  in  that  position  by  tying  it,  not 
too  tightly,  to  the  stub  of  the  old  leader.  In  due  course  this  branch 
will  assume  an  upright  form  and  the  tie  can  then  be  cut.  Much  can  be 
done  by  staking  and  training  of  evergreens,  assisted  by  pruning.  The 
latter  operation  may  lead  to  gumming  if  done  carelessly  or  at  an 
improper  time. 

Directions  for  Pruners 

Below  is  given  a  list  of  some  seventy-five  of  those  plants  in  general 
use,  with  directions  how  and  when  to  prune.  By  following  the  direc- 
tions given  the  amateur  gardener  will  be  able  to  show  good  and  satis- 
factory results. 


Name 

How  to   Prune 

When 

Akebia 

Give  only  a  little  pruning. 

July   , 

Amorpha  frutescens 

Tan.-Mar. 

Apple 

Requires  pruning  each  year.  For  home  gar- 
den Apple  tree  heads  should  be  low  so  that 
the  fruit  may  be  readily  picked.      Keep  the 
tree   open    in    center     by     removing     all 
branches  which  interfere,  those  which  cross 
or  shade  each  other. 

JFeb.-Mar. 

Azalea  Ghent  and  mollis 

Remove  old  wood. 

July 

Berberis  Thunbergii 

Remove  only  oldest  shoots  to  retain  form. 

July 

vulgaris 

Blackberries 

Remove  old  canes  after  fruiting;  tip  back  in 
Spring  to  6  ft.  or  8  ft. 

Celastrus 

July 

Cerasus.  Ornamental 

July 

Cercis  canadensis 

japonica 

July 

Cherry,  Sour 

Need  little     pruning     except     to     remove 
branches  which  are  crossed  or  broken. 

Feb.-Mar. 

Cherry,  Sweet 

Keep  head  low  because  they  have  tendency 
to    grow    tall,    and   also    to    prevent    the 
damage  often  caused  by  sun  and  wind. 

Feb.-Mar. 

Chionanthus  virginica 

Requires  very  little  pruning. 

July 

Clematis 

Rather  vigorous  pruning. 

Jan.-Mar. 

COLUTEA  ARBORESCENS 

Jan.-Mar. 

Crat^gus  Oxyacantha 

July 

Currants 

Canes  bear  two  or  three  times,  cut  out  few 

Feb.-Mar. 

oldest  canes  each  year,  otherwise  fruit  be- 

Late Summer 

comes  small. 

Deutzias 

Unless  over  long  do  not  cut  back  shoots. 

July 

Dogwood 

July 

Dwarf  Horse  Chestnut 

Jan.-Mar. 

ELiE AGNUS  LONGIPES 

Needs  to  be  looked  over  each  year  for  re- 
moval of  old  wood  and  straggling  branches. 

July 

PRUNING 


205 


Name 


EXOCHORDA  GRANDIFLORA 

(See  Pearl  Bush) 
Flowering  Currant 

CRibes  aureum) 
Flowering  Plum 
Forsythias    ■ 
Fringe  Tree 

(See  Chionanthus) 
Golden  Bell 

(See  Forsythia) 
Golden  Chain 

(See  Laburnum) 
Gooseberries 


Grapes 


{,See  illustration  pages 
£34^35) 


Hibiscus  syriacus 

(See  Rose  of  Sharon) 
Honeysuckles 


Hydrangea 


Hydrangea  paniculata 


How  to  Prune 


When 


Cut  back  just  after  flowering. 

Encourage  vigorous   young   growth.     Trim 
out  older  wood. 

Thin  out  branches  and  trim  back  others  im- 
mediately after  flowering. 


Remove  oldest  shoots  annually.  In  July  or 
Aug.  cut  back  each  a  bit;  it  causes  more 
fruit  buds  to  form. 

Persons  who  have  inherited  tangles  of  Grape 
Vines  should  exercise  care  in  pruning  the 
first  year.  Do  not  remove  too  much  at  the 
start,  otherwise  no  Grapes  will  be  pro- 
duced. When  possible,  all  unmature  canes 
should  be  pruned  back  to  a  single  eye  if  the 
vines  are  very  large,  but  two  eyes  may  be 
left  if  the  vines  are  quite  small.  When  the 
Grapes  have  nicely  set  we  seem  to  think 
that  they  are  benefited  by  cutting  off  the 
tips  of  each  bearing  cane  two  leaves  away 
from  each  bunch.  The  canes  usually  branch 
in  this  case,  and  they  may  be  cut  back  a 
little  even  then.  Should  one  acquire  or 
have  to  buy  new  vines,  it  is  well  to  have  a 
definite  simple  system  of  training.  Grapes 
at  planting  and  the  year  after  should  have 
the  vines  cut  back  two  to  three  eyes.  Then 
head  back  to  20  to  24  in.  long.  Several  sys- 
tems of  training  are  good. 

Munson  System.  Will  be  found  illustrated 
an  I  described  infuUin  fruit  chapter.  Claim- 
ed to  be  the  easiest  for  the  amateur. 

K-niffin  System.  Good  if  wind  is  not  too 
strong;  simple.  Single  trunk  is  carried  to 
the  upper  of  two  wires  and  two  canes  are 
taken  out  at  an  eye  for  each  wire.  Each 
year  all  the  canes  are  removed  except  a 
shoot  from  each;  spurs  are  chosen  from  the 
trunk.  A  vine  may  carry  40  buds  usually. 
The  fruit  canes  are  produced  on  shoots  of 
previous  year's  growth. 

Chautauqua  System.  Two  short,  permanent 
branches  are  established  at  the  lower 
wire;  two  or  three  canes  are  left  on  each 
arm  and  tied  up  to  upper  wire; 
these  canes  are  renewed  each  year 
from  buds  at  their  base.  When  arms  get 
too  old,  new  ones  are  easily  established. 


The  climbers  and  the  bush  Honeysuckles, 
except  Spring  flowering  Standishii  and  fra- 
grantissima  which  two  latter  prune  in  July. 

Hydrangeas  bloom  upon  wood  produced  the 
current  season  from  older  wood.  They 
must,  therefore,  not  be  cut  down  wholly  to 
the  ground,  otherwise  they  bloom  poorly. 

These  shrubs  should  be  large  because  they 
are  old;  they  should  not  be  allowed  to  get 
into  a  monstrous  size  when  young;  their 
beauty  is  entirely  spoiled  by  such  treat- 
ment. If  one  does  not  admire  the  flower 
stalks,  they  are  best  pruned  in  Nov. 


July 
July 


Late  Summer 


Jan. -Mar 


Jan.-Mar. 
Jan.-Mar. 

Jan.-Mar. 


966 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Name 

How  to  Prune 

When 

Indian  Currant 

Jan.-Mar. 

Japanese  Quinces 

July 

Kerria  japonica 

Jan.-Mar. 

KCELREUTERIA   PANICULATA 

Require  only  that  old  wood  shall  be  removed. 

July 

Laburnxjm  VULGARE 

Shorten  any  straggling    shoots    after    flow- 
ering. 

July 

LiGUSTRUMS 

Jan.-Mar. 

Lilac 

Prune  out  old  wood  if  specimen  flowers  are 
preferred,  also  prune  out  all  the  sprouts  from 
the  base. 

Require  only  that   old   wood   shall   be   re- 

July. 

Magnolias 

July. 

moved.  Tar  over  all  scars. 

Mahonia  aquifolla 

Require  only  that  old  wood  shall  be  removed. 

July. 

Matrimony  Vine 

Jan.-Mar. 

Mountain  Laitrel 

Requires  only  that  old  wood  should  be  re- 
moved. 

Neviusia  alabamensis 

July 

PiBONIA    MOUTAN 

July 

Pa  via  (See  Dwarf  Chestnut) 

PRUNING  RASPBERRY  CANES 

Remove  all  the  old  canes  in  Winter  as  shown  at  A.     Canes  of 

black  Raspberries,   when  growing,  can  be   tipped    to  produce 

laterals  as  at  B.     These  will  fruit  the  following  year. 


Peach 


Pear 

Pearl  Bush 

Philadelphus 

Plum 

Privet  (See  Hedges) 
Priwus 

Double  flowering  Almond 

Dwf .  dbl.  flowering  Almond 

P.  tomentosa 

P.  triloba 
Quinces 

Raspberries.  Black 


The  Peach  bears  on  shoots  of  previous  year. 
The  tree  must,  therefore,  never  be  headed 
back;  whole  branches  should  be  removed 
when  pruning.  Heading  in  does  cause  pro- 
duction of  new  wood  but  method  advised 
is  better. 

Low  heads,  keeping  them  open  if  possible. 
Keep  all  branches  free  from  water  sprouts. 


Moderate  pruning  to  remove  old  branches 
and  new  ones  if  tree  becomes  overloaded. 


Head  very  low.     Cut  back  ends  of  branches. 
Fruit  borne  on  wood  of  current  season. 
Bear  on  wood  which  grew  previous  year. 


Feb.-Mar. 


Feb.-Mar. 

July 

Jan.-Mar. 

Feb.-Mar. 


July. 

Feb.-Mar. 
After  fruiting. 


PRUNING 


267 


Name 

How  to  Prune 

When 

Raspberries,  Red 

Remove   old     canes   after  fruiting,    leaving 
young  canes.    Do   not  head   back   as    with 
Blackberries,  or  black    Raspberries;  suckers 
start  too  freely.  Early  Spring  clip  back  ends 
of  shoots  so  that  ends  are  30-36  in.  long  or  do 
not  prune  if  trained  on  trellis. 

July-Mar. 

Red  Bud 

July 

RH  OD  ODENDR  ONS 

Remove  oldest  wood;  remove  seed  pods. 

July 

Rhodotypos  kerrioides 

July 

RiBES  (See  Blackberries  and 

Raspberries) 

Rose  of  Sharon 

Jan.-Mar. 

Snowball 

This  is  naturally  a  badly  shaped  shrub;  prune 

July 

(Viburnum  Opulus  sterilis) 

to  improve  form. 

Snowberry 

Jan.-Mar 

SpiRiEA  Van  Houttei 

Remove  old  wood;  shear  off  old  seed  cap- 
sules.    Cut   away    half  the  branches  that 
have  bloomed. 

July 

SPIRiEA  ThUNBERGII 

In  north  the  tips  freeze;  they  need  a  little 
Spring  pruning.     Main  pruning  after  flow- 

July 

SpIRiEAS 

Thin  them  out  in  winter.     Cut  back  shoots 

Jan.-Mar. 

(Summer-blooming) 

that  have  flowered. 

Staphylea  trifoliata 

Require  only  that  old  wood  shall  be  removed. 

July 

Tamarix 

Prune  hard  back. 

Jan.-Mar. 

Varnish  Tree 

(See  Kcelreuteria) 

Viburnum 

Includes  Hoble  Bush,  Arrowwood,  Snowball. 

July 

Weigela  (diervilla) 

Cut  out  old  wood.    Remove  seed  vessels. 

July 

Wistaria 

July 

Witch  Hazel 

July 

For  a  complete  work  on  the  subject  of  this 
chapter  we  recommend 

THE  PRUNING  MANUAL,  by L.  H.Bailey.  This  book,  first  published 
in  1898,  is  now  thoroughly  revised  and  reset  and  appears  in  its  eighteenth  edition, 
with  many  new  illustrations.  The  experiments  of  the  last  eighteen  years  have 
made  changes  in  some  of  the  conceptions  of  pruning,  and  these  are  incor- 
porated in  the  new  treatment.  The  author  remarks  that  pruning  is  much  more 
than  the  cutting  off  of  limbs  and  the  shaping  and  training  of  plants.  The 
practice  really  rests  on  a  sound  knowledge  of  the  way  in  which  plants  grow 
and  how  they  respond  to  treatment  (and  a  person  is  not  a  horticulturist  until 
he  understands  these  questions  and  as  well  those  of  fertilizing,  spraying  and 
propagation.     Secure  this  book  where  you  bought  your  Garden  Guide. 

Price,  $2.65  postpaid. 


Always  consult  Index  to  Contents.     Familiarize  yourself  with  it.     There 

are  hundreds  of  good  things  in  this  book  that  will  escape  your  attention  if 

you  do  not  use  Index  freely. 


CHAPTER  XIX 


Plant  Propagation 

Hardwood  Cuttings — Soft-wooded  Cuttings — Making  Cuttings 
of  Perennials — Leaf  Cuttings — Root  Cuttings — Division  of  Per- 
ennials— Seed  Sowing:  Perennials  and  Annuals — Vegetables — 
Starting  Flowers  Indoors — Shrub  and  Tree  Seeds — Grafting — 
Budding — Layering 

(Readers  who  desire  to  fully  inform  themselves  on  this  most  fascinating  of  pursuits 
are  advised  to  obtain  a  copy  of  "Commercial  Plant  Propagation,"  by  Prof.  A.  C.  Hottes. 
Obtainable  where  you  bought  your  Garden  Guide). 

WHY  don't  you  propagate  more  of  your  plants  and  share  your 
good  ones  with  your  neighbor?    Nothing  is  more  interesting 
than  to  get  a  sHp  from  a  neighbor.     Plants  of  this  sort  carry 
with  them  memories  of  your  friend  which  add  to  the  charm  of  the 
plant  itself.    By  doing  so  you  will  add  to  the  number  of  garden  lovers 

Hardwooded  Cuttings 

People  are  afraid  to  cut  up  plants.   They  wish  they  had 

a  whole  hedge  of  a  certain  shrub  instead  of  one  plant.  If  that 
I  is  true  in  your  case,  do  this:  In  the  Fall,  cut  up  in  six-inch 

k  lengths  the  good,  strong,  whip-like  branches  of  such  plants 

^  as  Privet  and  Hydrangeas;  tie  them  in  bundles  and  either 

bury  them  in  a  sandy  knoll,  or  place  them  in  a  box  of  sandy 

soil  in  the  cellar.  Absolutely  cover  them.  Water  them  occa- 
sionally. By  Springtime  the  wood  will  have  healed  over  a  bit 

at  the  base  and  the  cuttings  should 

then  be  placed  in  a  well  prepared 

soil  so  that  only   two  buds  are 

above  ground.    Climbing  Roses, 

Grapes,    Currants,  Golden  Bell, 

Spiraeas,  Lilaos,  Willows,   Mock 

Orange,  Dogwoods  and  Deutzias 

are  quite  easily  propagated  in  this 

manner.    Note  the  illustration;  it 

shows  how  wood  should  not  be 

left  above  the  top  bud,  and  how 

the  base  of  cuttings  should  be  cut 

clean  just  below  a  bud  or  buds. 

A  hardwood  If  the  IcaveS  are  on  the  plant,  cut        A  soft  wood  (Chrysanthemum) 

(Currant)      ,r  11     cc  cutting.      Such    cutting    may 

cutting       them  all  on .  be  3 In.  long— the  best  size 


PLANT  PROPAGATION 


269 


Soft-wooded  Cuttings 

You  can  easily  multiply  your  shrubs  and  even  Roses  during  the 
Summer  if  you  will  make  slips,  and  be  sure  to  get  them  short.  Three 
inches  is  long  enough.  The  shp  should  have  a  few  leaves  at  top;  the 
others  should  be  removed.  This  type  of  cutting  is  called  a  soft-wooded 
cutting.  Cuttings  have  no  roots,  no  method  of  taking  up  food  from 
the  soil  so  that  food  stored  in  the  stem  and  leaves  which  should  produce 
roots  is  lost  by  evaporation  if  too  much  foliage  remains  on  the  cutting; 
if  the  leaves  are  large  they  are  often  trimmed  smaller.    The  cuttings, 

when  made,  should 
be  placed  in  a  box 
of  sand  or  directly 
in  the  soil  if  it  is 
sandy.  Put  the  cut- 
tings in  rather  deeply 
and  firm  them  in  very 
sohdly.  If  there  is  a 
large  glass  jar  or  bell- 
glass  handy,  use  it 
to  cover  those  plants 
which  you  usually 
think  are  a  little  more 
difficult  to  root,  such 
as  Roses.  But  all 
cuttings,    whether 


DahUa  root,   showing  young  shoots  starting  and 
where  to  cut  apart  (c) 


covered  with  glass 
or  not  should  have 
a  shading.  A  good 
place  for  the  cuttings 
would  be  under  the 
Grape  vines  where 
there  is  always  ample 
shade.  Water  them 
thoroughly.  Firm 
them  in  sand  solidly, 
give  them  shade,  and 
water  carefully.  Cut- 
tings of  any  sort 
should  not  be  placed 
right  where  they  are 
to  grow. 


Jerusalem  Artichoke  tuber.     Note  the  eyes;  unlike 
those  of  the  Dahlia  they  are  on  the  tuber  itself 


270  GARDEN  GUIDE 

Making  Cuttings  of  Perennials 

This  sort  of  cutting  can  be  made  of  hundreds  of  perennials.  If 
you  wish  to  increase  your  stock,  merely  take  little  slips  in  the  Spring 
when  the  plants  are  six  or  seven  inches  tall.  Be  sure  to  leave  a  few 
buds  below  where  the  cutting  is  taken;  it  will  not  injure  the  plants  in  the 
least,  but  will  cause  them  to  become  branchy.  Choose  wood  that  is 
a  httle  ripened. 

Perennials  which  are  readily  propagated  by  cuttings  are: 


Arabis 

Dahlia 

Hollyhock 

Lotus 

Asclepias 

Eupatorium 

Iberis 

Perennial  Sunflower 

Cerastium 

Helenium 

Larkspur 

Phlox 

Chrysanthemum 

Hesperis 

Lobelia 

Pink 

Clematis 

Heuchera 

Loosestrife 

Potentilla 

Leaf  Cuttings 

Leaf  cuttings  are  rarely  made  in  the  garden,  but  if  some  friend  has 
given  the  reader^a  slip  of  a  Rex  Begonia  he  may  attempt  to  root  it. 
Remove  all  but  one  leaf  and  oftentimes  that  leaf  needs  shortening. 
The  leaves  removed  can  be  cut  up  in  small  pieces  so  that  each  piece 
has  a  portion  of  the  heavy  midrib  at  the  base.  When  inserted  in  sand, 
several  inches  deep  in  a  warm  greenhouse,  the  base  will  root  and  a 
young  plant  starts. 

Root  Cuttings 

Root  cuttings  are  interesting  to  make.  Plants  with  rather  thick 
roots  can  usually  be  propagated  by  this  method .  A  box  will  be  neces- 
sary for  such  propagation;  it  should  be  about  three  inches  deep  and 
nearly  filled  with  a  light  loam.  The  roots  are  cut  into  pieces  an  inch 
and  a  half  long,  and  are  scattered  over  the  surface  of  the  soil  and 
covered  about  one-half  inch  deep  with  light  soil.  The  box  should  then 
be  placed  in  shade,  watered  and  covered  with  a  paper.  In  a  short  time 
shoots  will  start  and  the  young  plant  can  be  transplanted  to  another 
location.  The  following  plants  can  be  propagated  by  this  method : 
Polygonum,  Euphorbia,  Plumbago  larpentae,  Saponaria,  Coronilla 
varia,  Achillea,  Japanese  Anemone. 

There  are  a  number  of  perennials  propagated  by  root  cuttings 
which  succeed  better  when  the  roots  are  planted  perpendicularly  with 
a  little  piece  of  the  end  protruding.  They  are  usually  fleshy  rooted 
sorts.  Among  the  plants  are:  Italian  Borage  (Anchusa),  Plume 
Poppy  (Bocconia  cordata),  Dodecatheon,  Stokes'  Aster  (Stokesia 
cyanea),  Bee  Balm  (Monarda),  perennial  Phlox,  Gaillardia,  Gyp- 
sophila,  Helianthus  rigidus,  Thermopsis,  Papaver,  Statice,  Bleeding 
Heart,  Peony.  Lily  of  the  Valley  is  increased  by  separating  the  pips 
or  individual  crowns.     Among  the   vegetables,   Horseradish  is  so 


PIANT  PROPAGATION  271 

propagated.    Scotch  and  Moss  Roses,  Galycanthus,  Lilacs  and  Black- 
berries may  all  be  propagated  in  this  way. 

Division  of  Perennials 

Perhaps  the  commonest  method  of  propagation  of  perennials  and 
the  one  which  is  easiest,  is  the  division  of  the  clumps,  the  main  crowns 
being  cut  into  a  number  of  pieces.  The  plants  should  be  divided  very 
early  in  Spring  before  growth  starts,  or  late  in  the  Fall.  This  is  the 
most  used  method  of  propagating  Iris,  Peonies  and  Phlox.  German 
Iris  should  be  so  divided  every  three.  Phlox  every  four,  and  Peonies 
every  six  or  seven  years,  while  Michaelmas  Daisy,  Achillea  Ptarmica 
and  millefolium  rosemn,  Helianthus,  Gedum,  some  Veronicas,  Chrys- 
anthemums, (Enothera,  and  all  perennials  which  sucker  badly  should 
be  moved  and  divided  every  year.  Artemisia,  Boltonia,  Campanula, 
Geum,  Funkia,  Doronicum,  Armeria,  Thalictrum  are  all  propagated 
by  division. 

SEED   SOWING 
Perennials  and  Annuals  from  Seed 

If  we  possess  coldframes  and  hotbeds  we  can  sow  many  of  the 
perennials  in  March  and  get  them  to  bloom  the  same  year.  We  can 
sow  annuals  also  and  have  them  of  excellent  size  for  setting  in  open 
ground.  We  may  also  sow  perennials  and  annuals  out  of  doors,  in 
which  case  some  will  bloom  the  first  year,  but  with  others  a  longer  time 
will  be  required. 

The  following  are  a  few  of  the  perennials  which  will  bloom  the 
first  year  from  seed:  Gaillardia,  Iceland  Poppy,  Chinese  Larkspur 
(Delphinium  chinense),  Lychnis,  Shasta  Daisy,  Platycodon. 

On  the  other  hand,  there  are  many  perennials  which  wait  a  year 
before  flowering,  namely:  Cardinal  Flower,  Golden  Alyssum,  Cam- 
panula, Aquilegia  (Columbine),  Foxglove,  Loosestrife,  Physostegia, 
Hollyhock,  Sweet  Rocket. 

The  main  advantage  of  growing  perennials  and  annuals  from  seed 
is  that  it  saves  the  cost  of  buying  plants,  which  runs  up  pretty  high 
when  quantities  of  plants  must  be  bought  from  nurseries.  Many 
of  the  best  varieties  do  not  come  true  to  seed,  however,  for  seedlings 
often  vary  in  color  and  habit.  This  is  true  especially  of  highly  bred 
plants,  hybrids  which  have  resulted  from  the  incorporation  of  several 
species.  Peonies,  Phlox,  Iris  and  such  perennials  should  be  purchased, 
not  raised  from  seed. 

Vegetables 

The  hotbed  or  coldframe  is  more  essential  for  the  vegetable  garden 
than  it  is  for  the  flower,  since  we  can  get  the  crops  so  much  earlier. 


272  GARDEN  GUIDE 

Everything  is  so  tender  and  as  it  seems  out  of  season  tastes  so  good  that 
all  the  pains  of  regulating  the  hotbed  are  worth  while.  Lettuce  can 
be  matured  in  such  structures  and  Tomatoes,  Egg  Plants,  Beets, 
Onions,  Muskmelons,  and  even  Com  can  be  started.  The  space  is 
valuable,  so  that  careful  planning  is  necessary  to  utilize  every  bit  in  the 
hotbed.  (Hotbeds  are  discussed  in  a  separate  chapter.)  Many  persons 
will  not  have  hotbeds,  but  will  need  to  depend  upon  the  windows  for 
their  early  start. 

Starting  Flowers  Indoors 

There  is  always  a  danger  in  advising  a  very  early  start  for  sowing 
seeds  indoors  for  the  reason  that  the  plants  are  apt  to  become  very 
spindling  owing  to  the  diminished  hght  most  of  us  can  supply  plants 
in  our  houses.  For  the  early  Spring  sowing  we  shall  need  to  save  the 
soil  in  the  cellar.  It  should  not  be  too  rich  but  should  be  loose,  made  so 
by  the  addition  of  sand,  coal  ashes,  or  leaf  mold.  It  should  be  in  a  fine 
condition.  Small,  shallow  boxes,  three  inches  deep,  are  best  for  seed 
sowing.  The  bottom  should  have  a  number  of  cracks  and  should  be 
covered  with  some  coarse  drainage  material,  as  broken  crockery,  sod 
or  stones.  The  flats  should  be  filled  even  full,  then  drills  should  be 
made,  the  depth  varying  according  to  the  sort  of  seeds  that  are  to  be 
sown.  A  depth  equal  to  twice  the  diameter  of  the  seed  is  all  that  is 
necessary  indoors.  The  reader  is  referred  to  the  Garden  Calendar 
(page  339)  for  the  proper  time  to  sow  each  vegetable  or  flower.  The 
seed  may  be  sown  thinly,  so  that  each  seedling  will  have  plenty  of 
air  and  space.  When  sown,  the  seed  should  be  covered  and  the  soil 
firmed  by  the  use  of  a  board.  After  watering  carefully  with  a  fine 
spray,  the  box  should  be  covered  with  glass  and  a  newspaper, 
and  put  in  a  suitable  place  for  growth.  Just  as  soon  as  the  seeds  have 
germinated  the  shading  of  paper  should  be  removed  so  that  the  plant- 
lets  may  get  the  full  light. 

Shrubs  and  Trees  from  Seed 

When  the  fruits  of  many  of  the  trees  and  shrubs,  as  Kegel's  Privet, 
Hawthorns,  Rhodotypos,  Roses,  Rarberries,  Roston  Ivy,  Euonymus, 
and  Viburnums,  are  thoroughly  ripe  they  should  be  gathered  and  so 
placed  that  the  mass  of  berries  will  ferment  a  little.  The  pulp  of  the 
fruit  can  then  be  washed  from  the  seeds.  Roxes  should  then  be  pro- 
cured in  which  a  layer  of  sand  is  placed;  the  seeds  are  sown  broadcast 
and  covered  by  at  least  an  inch  of  sand.  The  flats  are  watered  thor- 
oughly and  placed  in  the  basement  until  February,  when  they  are 
taken  out  of  doors  and  allowed  to  freeze.  This  is  necessary  to  break 
their  heavy  coverings.      This  process  is  known  as  stratification ;  the 


PLANT  PROPAGATION 


273 


Flower  pot  filled  with  soil 
and  sand,  the  sand  at  the 
top.  Soft  wooded  cuttings 
root  most  readily  if  placed 
around  the  edges  of  the 
pot.  Seedlings  trans- 
planted may  be  placed 
similarly 


following  shrubs  should  be  so  treated:  Bar- 
berry, Sweet  Shrub,  New  Jersey  Tea,  Snow- 
drop Tree,  Shadbush,  Privet,  Honeysuckle, 
Styrax,  Snowberry ,  Indian  Currant,  Hawthorn 
and  the  Viburnums.  When  the  ground  is  in 
condition  for  planting,  sift  the  seeds  from  the 
sand  and  sow  in  rows.  Planting  should  not  be 
delayed  or  else  the  seeds  will  have  sprouted 
and  will  be  injured  by  the  handling  at  this 
time.  They  should  then  start  rather  readily. 
Tree  seeds  are  treated  the  same  as  those  of 
shrubs.  Seeds  which,  though  hard,  will  not 
stand  freezing  are  often  filed  or  nicked  with 
a  knife.  The  following  tree  seeds  need  to  be 
placed  in  sand  and  frozen:  Maples,  Ailan- 
thus,  Birch,  Catalpa,  Chestnut,  Beech,  Ash, 
Hickory,  Butternut,  Black  Walnut,  Locust,  Basswood;  and  besides 
these  are  the  fruit  trees,  namely:  Apple,  Cherry,  Peach,  Pear,  Plum. 
A  number  of  tree  and  shrub  seeds  should  be  sown  immediately 
after  ripening.  The  principal  ones  are:  Trees — Birch,  Chest- 
nut, Elm, 
Hackberry, 
Horse-Chest- 
nut, Magno- 
lia, Maple, 
Oak,  Poplar, 
Ptelia,  Sweet 
Gum.  Shrubs 
— Bayberry, 
Honeysuckle, 
Nemopan- 
thes.  Rose, 
Spiraea. 

Seeds  differ 
greatly  in 
their  germ- 
inatingpower. 
The  White 
Oak    germin- 


Section  of  a  typical  Flower:  p — Petal:  The  petals  taken  together 
are  called  the  corolla,    s — Sepal:    Sepals  taken  together  are  called 
the  calyx,    at — Stamen:    The  male  part  of  plant,    fi — The  filament    atCS     QUicklv 
or  thread-like  part  of  stamen,    an — The  filament  or  pollen  producing  r>i      i   /-\  V 

part  of  stamen,    pi — Pistil  or  female  part  of  flower,    sti — the  stigma   tnC  Jjlack  Oak 
or  part  receiving  the  pollen,    o — The  ovary  which  bears  the  seeds, 
r — Receptacle,  often  helps  to  make  up  the  fruit 


slowly.     The 


274 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Ash    seed  is  rather  oUy    and  benefits   by  being  treated  to  a  weak 
acid  bath. 

There  are  a  number  of  reasons  why  seeds  fail  to  germinate.  They 
may  have  been  immature  when  gathered.  Pansy  seed  matures  so 
that  some  of  the  seeds  are  ripe  while  others  are  not.  Some  seeds  upon 
becoming  too  dry,  are  killed.  Seeds  have  often  been  stored  while  moist 
and  heating  has  resulted  which  killed  the  vital  germ  of  growth;  while 
still  other  have  been  injured  by  insects  and  fungi  before  or  after  ma- 
turing. 


Cions  for  Cleft 
Grafting 


A  B 

Cleft  grafting 

A, The  completed  graft.  B,  Properly  waxed. 

The  methods  of  grafting  are  explained  in 

the  text  on  the  following  pages 


Grafting 

Trees  which  belong  to  the  same  variety  or  species  may  be  grafted. 
In  other  words,  a  Baldwin  Apple  may  be  grafted  upon  a  Baldwin  or  any 
other  Apple.  Sometimes  plants  of  different  species  but  of  the  same 
genus  may  be  grafted;  other  times  this  is  not  true.  Apples  may  not 
usually  be  grafted  upon  Pears;  yet  Quinces  (of  the  genus  Cydonia) 
have  Pears  (Pyrus)  grafted  upon  them  to  impart  the  dwarf  habit.  We 
could  never  expect  Cherries  on  Pear  trees,  or  red  Raspberries  on 
Grape  vines,  for  it  is  only  those  plants  which  are  very  closely  related 
that  will  allow  grafting. 

We  have  seen,  as  in  the  preceding  case,  that  Pears  may  be  kept 
dwarf  by  working  them  upon  the  Quince  stock.  We  may,  likewise, 
increase  the  vigor  of  a  variety  by  grafting  it  upon  a  stronger  growing 
species.    A  familiar  example  of  this  is  the  grafting  of  certain  Roses 


PLANT  PROPAGATION 


275 


upon  the  Manetti  Rose.  Many  times  plants  are  grafted  in  order  to 
render  them  more  adaptable  to  adverse  soils  and  climates.  An  example 
here  is  found  in  the  case  of  Apples  which  are  often  grafted  upon  the 
Siberian  Grab  in  order  to  render  them  better  able  to  withstand  intensely 
cold  climates.  ^Sometimes  double  grafting  has  to 
be  practised  especially  with  finei  Pears,  but  that  is  a 
part  of  the  subject  we  need  not  enter  upon  here. 

Girdled  trees  may  be  grafted  with  a  bridge  graft. 
In  most  cases,  however,  the  process  of  grafting  is  used 
simply  to  multiply  the  variety.  Baldwin 
Apples  are  wanted;  they  do  not  come 
true  to  seed;  cuttings  are  slower;  so 
that  some  form  of  grafting  is  used. 

When  only  a  bud,  instead  of  part  of 
a  shoot,  is  transferred,  the  process  is 
called  ''budding." 

There  is  a  fundamental  necessity  in 
all  grafting  work:  The  layer  just  between 
the  wood  and  bark,  the  line  where  the 
bark  peels,  of  both  stock  and  cion,  must 
be  in  contact.  The  stock  is  the  plant 
grafted  upon;  the  cion  (also  spelled  scion) 
is  the  shoot  or  graft  that  is  inserted. 

Cleft  or  Cion  Grafting.  There  are  a 
number  of  simple  sorts  of  cion  grafting. 
The  method  most  used  upon  trees  in 
which  the  stock  is  over  one  inch  in 
diameter  is  called  cleft  grafting.  The 
branch  of  the  stock  which  is  to  be 
grafted  is  cut  off  short.  It  is  spHt 
through  the  center  and  the  crack 
opened  to  receive  a  short  cion.  The 
cions  are  best  cut  during  the  Fall  and  stored  through  the  Winter  in 
moist  sand,  but  they  may  be  taken  directly  from  the  trees  very  early 
when  the  sap  starts  in  the  Spring  but  before  the  buds  have  burst. 
The  best  length  is  three  buds  long,  the  top  bud  being  the  top  of  the 
cion;  the  lower  end  is  beveled  at  each  side  to  form  a  perfect  wedge 
as  shown  in  the  cut.  This  wedge  must  have  the  cut  surfaces  perfectly 
straight,  not  hollowed  out,  if  the  union  is  to  be  a  good  one.  In  inserting 
the  cion  two  cambium  rings  must  be  together;  this  is  the  part  between 
the  bark  and  the  wood.  To  be  sure  of  this,  slant  the  cion  just  a  trifle. 
Then  cover  over  the  whole  cut  area  with  grafting  wax. 


Whip  or  Tongue  Grafting 

In  grafting  the  stock  and  cion 
must  be  firmly  bound  around 
with  broad  raffia  or  other  ligature. 
The  above  drawing  is  intended 
to  show  how  to  fix  the  graft,  but 
the  binding  must  cover  the  union 
thoroughly    to    exclude    the    air 


276 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Whip  or  tongue  grafting  is  the  next  most  common  method. 
It  is  especially  used  upon  small  branches  or  for  grafting  seedhngs. 
Apple  seedhngs  may  be  nicely  grafted  by  this  method.  Branches  to 
be  grafted  must  be  nearly  the  same  size.  The  stock  should  be  beveled 
off  with  a  long  plane  surface;  the  cion  should  be  beveled  the  same  way. 
Then  each  should  be  spHt  so  that  the  two  tongues  fit  together  nicely. 
Practice  a  bit  upon  some  other  wood  and  you  will  learn  more  by  the 
experience  than  words  can  tell  in  description.  As  in  all  grafting,  the 
layer  between  the  bark  and  wood  of  each  must  be  in  contact  on  one 
side  at  least.  This  sort  of  grafting,  like  the  former,  should  be  done  in 
Spring  before  growth  starts.  This  graft  may  not  be  covered  with  wax, 
but  merely  tied  firmly.  A  cord  used  for  this 
purpose  is  usually  No.  18  knitting  cotton 
soaked  in  grafting  wax.  This  is  just  strong 
enough  to  break  when  it  should,  before  the 
branch  is  strangled 

Budding 

The  simplest  method  of  budding  is  known 
as  shield  budding.  It  consists  of  placing  a 
shield-shaped  piece  of  bark  bearing  a  bud, 
beneath  the  bark  of  the  stock.  A  good, 
healthy,  well  budded  branch  is  chosen;  the 
buds  are  cut  from  it,  holding  the  branch 
upside  down.  A  T-shaped  cut  is  made  in  the 
stock  near  the  base  of  the  plant;  the  free 
edges  are  carefully  peeled  back  and  the  bud 
inserted  as  shown  in  the  cut.  The  budded 
stock  is  then  tied  with  yarn  or  raffia  so  that 
the  bud  is  held  firmly;  all  should  be  covered 
except  the  bud.  Budding  may  be  employed 
whenever  the  bark  peels  nicely. 

Prof.  U.  P.  Hedrick,  the  expert  horticul- 
turist of  the  Geneva  Experiment  Station, 
gives  the  following  dates  for  budding:  Rose, 
July  1  to  10;  Pear,  July  10  to  15;  Apple, 
July  15  to  Aug.  1;  Plum  (St.  JuKan  stock), 
July  15  to  Aug.  1;  Plum  (Myrobalan  stock), 
Aug.  15  to  Sept.  1;  Cherry  (Mazzard) ,  July 
20  to  Aug.  1;  Cherry  (Mahaleb),  Aug.  20  to 
Sept.  1;  Quince,  July  25  to  Aug.  15;  Peach, 
Aug.  20  to  Sept.  10. 


The  budding  of  Roses 

1.       Rose     shoot     showing 
where   bud  should   be   cut 

out    (see    dotted    line.) 

2  and  3.    Buds  as  prepared 

for  insertion,  No.  2  having 

the   wood   removed   behind 

the  eye. 

4.  T-shaped    cut  in  shoot. 

5.  Eye  inserted  in   shoot 
prior    to    binding. 

6.  Shoot  when  bound  up. 
Raffia  is  used  and  only  the 

bud  is  left  exposed 


PLANT  PROPAGATION 


277 


Layering 


Mound  layering  of  Gooseberries. 

Note  that  the  shoots  have  been  cut  back  previous 

to  mounding  the  soil  about  the  plants;  each  shoot 

is  rooting  nicely 


This  is  the  placing  of 
some  portion  of  a  branch 
in  contact  with  the 
soil  so  that  it  may  root. 
It  is  a  very  convenient, 
perfectly  simple  and  cer- 
tain, method  of  increas- 
iDg  many  plants.  Grape 
canes,  for  instance, 
are  merely  bent  down 
and  a  node  or  two 
covered  with  soil.  They 
root  readily  and  the 
new  plants  can  soon  be 
separated  from  the  old 
one. 

In  another  type  of 
layering  suited  to  Goose- 
berries and  many  ornamentals,  a  bush  is  mounded  so  that  each  shoot 
roots,  making  from  five  to  twenty-five  young  plants  instead  cf  one. 
After  they  are  well  rooted  the  plant  can  be  divided  and  each  part  will  be 
a  separate  plant.  Strawberry  runners  are  natural 
or  voluntary  layers.  Enough  of  them  can  be 
left  to  start  a  new  bed  to  take  the  place  of  the 
old  one.  Raspberries  are  propagated  by  bend- 
ing down  their  tips  and  covering  with  soil.  The 
tips  root,  and  the  resulting  new  plants  may  be 
transplanted. 
Tomato 
stems  root 
nicely  when 
they  touch 
the  soil,  and 
Squash  stems 
may  be  en- 
couraged to 
root  at  sev- 
eral    places    ,,,,.,,      .  ,       ,  „       ,      ,    .      ,    . 

*^     ,  Method  of  layering  a  woody  or  half-woody  plant,  as  for  instance, 

by   covering  a  Rhododendron  or  a  Carnation,     a,  Slit  or  tongue   cut  half  way 

.1     ...    -  through  the  stem;  b,  Pebble  to  keep  slit  open;  c.  Peg  for  holding 
ineir  JOiniS.  down  the  layer;  d,  A  stake  to  keep  the  shoot  firm 


CHAPTER  XX 


Transplanting 


Basic  Principles — Transplanting  Seedlings — Transplanting  to 
Open  Ground — What  and  What  Not  to  Transplant — Transplanting 
Shrubs  and  Small  Trees — Frozen  Ball  Method  of  Transplanting — 
Transplanting  Fruit  Trees — Moving  Large  Trees — Operations 
Resembling  Transplanting 

THE  operation  of  transplanting  is,  first  of  all,  a  means  of  saving 
time  in  gardening.  Whether  it  is  the  setting  out  of  a  Tomato 
plant  started  indoors  weeks  before  seed  could  have  been  sown 
outside,  or  the  moving  of  a  30-foot  tree  to  produce  an  effect  that  would 
otherwise  have  taken  as  many  years  to  achieve,  the  time  element  is 
the  important  factor.  Of  course  there  are  other  reasons  for  trans- 
planting. One  may  desire  to  rearrange  his  garden  plan;  it  may  be 
necessary  to  thin  out  an  overcrowded  stand  of  perennials  (and  inci- 
dentally secure  a  supply  of  new  plants) ;  the  object  may  be  to  estabhsh 
specimens  raised  and  obtained  elsewhere,  as  in  a  nursery,  the  open 
fields  or  a  woodlot.  Again,  as  in  the  case  of  Celery,  evergreens  and 
other  materials,  transplanting  induces  a  compact,  fibrous  root  system 
which  means  both  thrifty  plants  and,  in  the  case  of  nursery  grown 
stock,  easier  and  safer  transplanting  when  sold.  But  in  every  case  the 
most  notable  result  is  the  saving  of  weeks,  months,  or  even  years  that 
would  have  been  required  to  produce  the  same  effect  by  waiting  on 
Nature  or  from  the  sowing  of  seed.  And  oftentimes,  of  course,  the 
latter  program  is  impossible  for  the  amateur  or  small  gardener. 

Basic   Principles 

There  are  certain  basic  principles  common  to  all  the  different  kinds 
or  classes  of  transplanting.    These  may  be  Usted  as  follows: 

1.  Keep  the  roots  from  drying  out. 

2.  Injure  the  feeding  root  system  as  httle  as  possible. 

3.  Balance  unavoidable  root  disturbance  and  reduction  of  the  ab- 
sorbtion  area  by  reducing  the  transpiring  (leaf)  area  of  the  plant. 

4.  Prepare  the  soil  thoroughly;  firm  it  securely  around  the  newly 
set  place,  and  do  not  let  it  dry  out  while  the  plant  is  getting  established 
in  its  new  location. 

These  rules  apply,  with  very  slight  modifications,  to  transplanting 
activities  of  all  kinds.  This  should  be  kept  in  mind  as  we  discuss  the 
detailed  methods  of  handling  different  classes  of  plants,  even  though 
each  rule  may  not  be  specifically  referred  to  in  each  case.    On  the 

278 


TRANSPLANTING  279 

other  hand,  if  they  are  strictly  adhered  to  and  conscientiously  followed, 
there  is  almost  no  limit  to  the  extent  to  which  successful  transplanting 
can  be  carried.  As  an  instance,  the  writer  recalls  the  moving  of  some 
shrubs — Lilac,  Mock  Orange,  Spirsea,  etc.,  on  the  occasion  of  the  pur- 
chase of  a  suburban  property  in  mid-Spring,  just  when  the  plants  were 
in  bloom.  It  seemed  almost  ridiculous  to  try  to  transplant  them,  but 
the  attempt  was  made.  Moreover,  as  a  result  of  wetting  the  ground 
thoroughly  before  digging  the  shrubs,  keeping  the  root  systems 
wrapped  in  wet  burlap,  rushing  the  plants  to  their  new  location  by 
automobile,  having  the  holes  ready  and  the  new  soil  moist,  and 
keeping  the  earth  from  drying  out  at  any  time  thereafter,  the  attempt 
was  entirely  successful.  The  plants  were  estabhshed  with  httle  if  any 
check;  indeed  some  of  them  did  not  show  so  much  as  a  wilted  blossom 
after  twelve  hours  in  their  new  location.  Of  course,  success  of  that  sort 
means  lots  of  care  and  effort,  but  it  is  good  to  know  what  can  be 
accomplished  when  the  need  arises  and  one  is  willing  to  take  trouble. 

Transplanting  Seedlings 

The  first  transplanting  of  vegetable  or  flower  seedlings  started  in 
a  pot,  pan  or  flat  is  termed  "pricking  out,"  and  should  be  done  as  soon 
as  the  fn-st  pair  of  true  leaves  appear.  Before  this  the  seedhngs  are 
likely  to  be  too  delicate  to  handle;  if  left  much  longer  in  crowded  rows 
they  are  likely  to  become  spindly  and  weak. 

Several  hours  before  pricking  out,  wet  the  soil  in  the  flat  and  that 
into  which  the  plants  are  to  go;  they  are  more  easily  removed  from 
moist  soil,  more  of  which  will  cling  to  the  root  hairs.  Lift  out  small 
bunches  of  the  seedlings  with  a  small  stick  or  trowel — a  small,  diamond- 
shaped  mason's  trowel  is  excellent — separate  them  gently  with  the 
fingers,  holding  them  by  the  leaves,  and  reset  them  an  inch  or  so  apart 
each  way.  Make  a  hole  for  each  plant  with  a  small  dibble  or  skewer, 
let  the  seedhng  stand  about  as  deep  as  it  was  before,  and  press  the  soil 
well  around  the  roots  with  the  fingers.  When  all  are  planted,  the  flat 
or  bed  may  be  gently  sprinkled  until  the  soil  is  quite  moist,  and  then 
shghtly  shaded  if  the  sun  is  hot  and  shines  full  upon  it. 

Whenever  possible  it  is  desirable  to  transplant  such  seedlings  a 
second  time  before  setting  them  out  in  their  permanent  locations .  This 
shift  should  be  done  when  their  leaves  begin  to  overlap  and  should 
leave  them  about  four  inches  apart  each  way.  In  the  case  of  Egg  Plant, 
which  suffers  if  its  roots  are  much  disturbed,  or  any  plants  for  which 
special  care  is  desired,  this  second  shift  should  be  into  small  pots  or  old 
berry  boxes.  The  latter  and  the  various  kinds  of  paper  pots  can  later 
be  set  directly  in  the  field  or'garden  without  removing  the  plants  which 
will  soon  send  their  roots  out  through  the  cracks  or  through  the  paper 


280  GARDEN  GUIDE 

as  it  rots  away.  When  pots  are  not  used,  this  second  transplanting 
usually  injures  the  root  system  more  or  less,  so  it  is  well  to  pinch  off 
about  half  the  leaf  surface  of  each  seedling  as  it  is  set  out. 

"Whenever  Cabbage,  Tomato,  Pepper  or  other  plants  that  are 
attacked  by  cutworms  are  set  outdoors,  it  is  well  to  wrap  a  paper  collar 
around  the  stem  of  each  one.  This  should  extend  about  an  inch  above 
and  an  inch  below  the  surface  of  the  ground.  Another  type  of  cutworm 
preventer  is  a  disc  of  tough  paper  (tarred  roofing  paper  is  good)  slit 
to  the  center  and  slipped  around  the  stem  of  the  plant  close  to  the 
ground.  An  additional  precaution  that  is  especially  worth  while  in 
the  case  of  Lettuce,  is  to  cover  each  newly  set  out  plant  with  an  old 
berry  box  or  some  kind  of  commercial  plant  protector  or  shade.  This 
will  tend  to  prevent  severe  wilting  and  a  resulting  check;  but  whatever 
is  used,  be  sure  to  provide  for  ventilation  through  or  under  it. 

Transplanting  to  the  Open  Ground 

Whether  you  have  raised  your  plants  from  seed  or  have  bought 
pot  grown  stock  from  a  nurseryman  or  plantsman,  the  details  of  setting 
out  both  vegetables  and  ornamentals  are  the  same .  In  the  small  garden 
it  is  usually  possible  to  arrange  or  wait  for  conditions  that  are  just  about 
right.  A  damp,  cloudy  day  is  best,  especially  if  there  is  good  chance 
of  a  rainstorm  before  long.  Otherwise  wait  till  the  cool  of  the  evening 
so  that  the  plants  may  have  the  night  in  which  to  get  over  the  shock 
of  being  moved — for  it  is  a  shock — and  then,  if  the  next  day  is  clear  and 
hot,  shade  them  shghtly. 

In  planting  Strawberries  it  is  customary  to  trim  the  roots  off 
evenly  about  six  inches  long,  as  well  as  part  of  the  tops.  This  gives  a 
thick,  uniform  bunch  of  fibrous  roots  that  are  easily  handled  and 
quickly  inserted  into  an  opening  made  in  the  soil  with  a  thrust  of  spade. 
This  is  good  practice  with  any  fibrous-rooted  plant  that  stands  trans- 
planting well,  but  there  are  many  sorts  with  which  the  less  root  dis- 
turbance the  better  In  moving  these,  prepare  the  hole,  invert  the 
pot,  holding  the  stem  of  the  plant  between  the  first  two  fingers,  tap 
the  rim  of  the  pot  against  any  hard  object  and  place  the  root  ball  in 
the  hole  with  the  sHghtest  possible  loss  of  soil;  then  fill  the  hole  with 
water  and  let  it  soak  in  before  replacing  the  soil.  The  final  step  is  to 
leave  a  sHght  depression  around  the  plant  so  that  surface  water  will  run 
in  toward  the  roots,  rather  than  away  from  them  as  it  would  from  a 
mounded  up  surface.  If  the  soil  is  heavy  and  tends  to  bake,  sprinkle 
a  little  loose,  dry  earth  around  the  plant  as  a  mulch  to  prevent  exces- 
sive evaporation. 

In  this  connection  a  hint  in  regard  to  packing  growing  plants  for 
shipment  may  not  be  out  of  place.    If  they  are  to  go  any  distance  and 


TRANSPLANTING  281 

be  out  of  the  soil  for  any  considerable  time,  do  not  soak  the  soil  or  try 
to  keep  it  wet  during  the  trip.  On  the  contrary,  have  it  only  normally 
moist,  wrap  the  plants  (singly  or  in  small  bunches)  snugly  in  sHghtly 
moistened  newspaper,  tie  each  package  and  pack  all  together  in  a 
paper  or  burlap  lined  basket .  Later ,  when  you  have  set  them  all  out ,  and 
not  till  then,  give  the  plants  a  good  drink.  This  method  gives  them 
much  less  of  a  shock  than  the  commoner  one  of  soaking  them  first, 
then  having  them  often  dry  out  in  transit  and  suffer  all  the  more  by 
contrast. 

After  setting  out  plants,  as  with  all  growing  crops,  water 
copiously  when  they  need  it  and  cultivate  between  times.  Do  not 
sprinkle  lightly  every  little  while,  as  the  plants  do  not  absorb  moist- 
ure through  the  leaves,  and  a  shallow  wetting  of  the  soil  only  at- 
tracts the  roots  up  toward  the  surface  where  the  first  real  drought 
often  kills  some  of  them . 

What  and  What  Not  to  Transplant 

There  are  but  few  herbaceous  plants  that  cannot  be  transplanted 
if  taken  young  enough  and  handled  with  sufficient  care.  Calandrina 
and  annual  Poppies  are  typical  exceptions.  Among  flowers  which 
suffer  if  allowed  to  become  too  large  before  being  moved  are  Migno- 
nette, Nasturtium,  Bartonia,  Candytuft,  Centaurea,  Clarkia,  annual 
Dianthus,  California  Poppy,  Godetia,  annual  Larkspur,  Lupine,  Ni- 
gella,  annual  Rudbeckia,  Viscaria  and,  in  fact,  almost  all  of  the  quick- 
growing  annuals.  Perennials  and  plants  of  the  "bedding"  sorts  may  be 
moved  with  relative  ease  and  assurance  of  success. 

Practically  the  same  thing  holds  true  with  vegetables,  but,  except 
for  Lettuce,  there  is  rarely  need  or  desire  to  transplant  the  quick- 
growing  annuals.  Beets,  Carrots  and  even  Radishes  can  be  shifted 
while  very  small,  but  it  rarely  pays  to  take  the  trouble.  All  the  cu- 
curbits— Melons,  Squash,  Cucumbers,  etc.,  are  almost  sure  to  be 
injured  by  transplanting  unless  started  in  berry  boxes  or  pieces  of 
inverted  sod  which  can  be  set  out  without  disturbing  the  roots,  and 
Corn  and  Peas  are  rarely  if  ever  shifted  except  upon  a  very  small  scale. 
Tomato,  all  members  of  the  Cabbage  family.  Celery  and  Peppers 
transplant  readily  and  are  generally  so  handled  both  commercially 
and  in  the  home  garden. 

Transplanting    Shrubs  and  Small  Trees 

As  far  as  general  transplanting  methods  are  concerned,  these  two 
classes  of  plants  may  be  considered  together.  As  with  practically  all 
plants  other  than  herbaceous,  they  are  generally  moved  while 
dormant  although,  as  noted  above,  success  may  result  from  Spring 


282  GARDEN  GUIDE 

or  Siunmer  moving  if  sufficient  care  is  given .  For  evergreens  the  former 
practice  of  transplanting  only  in  August  and  early  September  is  still 
recommended  by  some,  but  the  dormant  system  especially  that  in- 
volving the  frozen  ball  of  roots,  is  quite  in  conunon  use. 

The  success  with  which  shrubs  are  moved  depends  largely  upon 
their  root  systems;  nursery  grown  stock  that  has  been  transplanted 
at  least  once  has  a  more  bushy,  compact  root  system  than  wild  field 
grown  specimens  and  is  therefore  more  satisfactorily  transplanted. 
Likewise  plants  with  a  shallow,  spreading  root  habit  are  easier  to 
handle  than  tap-rooted  or  fleshy-rooted  sorts,  such  as  the  Walnuts, 
Hickories,  Magnohas,  etc.  Taking  first  the  ordinary  dormant  system, 
the  essential  steps  are  about  as  follows: 

Upon  receipt  of  plants  from  the  nursery  leave  them  wrapped  un- 
less a  delay  of  several  days  must  elapse  before  they  are  set  out;  in  this 
case  impack  and  heel  them  in,  in  a  somewhat  shaded  place  where  the 
roots  will  keep  moist. 

At  planting  time  cut  off  clean  all  injured  roots  and  trim  back  any 
excessively  long  ones. 

Have  the  hole  big  enough  to  take  the  root  system  without  crowd- 
ing. Straighten  the  roots  out  as  naturally  as  possible  when  the  plant 
is  placed  in  the  hole. 

Let  the  tree  or  shrub  set  about  an  inch  deeper  than  it  set  before 
except  in  the  case  of  a  hedge,  when  the  plants  should  be  set  four  to 
six  inches  deeper  in  order  to  develop  a  thick,  much  branched  base. 

Fill  in  first  with  the  top  soil  taken  from  the  hole;  then  add  the  bot- 
tom soil  mixed  with  manure  if  possible;  finish  off  with  more  top  soil  if 
any  is  left. 

Firm  the  soil  thoroughly,  working  it  in  among  the  small  roots. 
Water  the  plant  well  before  filling  the  hole  completely. 

Cut  back  the  top  to  balance  the  root  pruning  and  also  to  shape 
the  head  of  the  shrub  or  tree. 

When  aU  is  finished,  mulch  with  loose  soil,  coarse  manure,  or  other 
litter.    If  severe  drought  ensues,  water  well  every  few  days. 

In  the  case  of  trees  taken  from  the  semi-shade  of  a  nursery  and 
set  out  in  early  Spring,  a  wrapping  of  straw  around  the  trunks  for  the 
first  season  may  prevent  destructive  sunburn  and  bark  cracking  as  a 
result  of  the  intense,  bright  sunlight. 

When  moved  any  time  except  in  Winter,  broad-leaved  evergreens 
should  have  a  good  part  of  their  leaves  stripped  off  to  check  evapora- 
tion, and  thus  aid  the  plants  in  getting  settled.  This  is  not  necessary 
if  the  plants  are  moved  with  a  frozen  ball  of  earth. 


TRANSPLANTING  283 

Special  Hints  Concerning   Conifers 

A  successful  specialist  in  evergreens  makes  the  following  valuable 
suggestions  as  to  the  handling  of  trees  of  this  class  that  have  been 
dug — as  is  almost  invariably  the  case — with  a  ball  of  earth: 

"Where  the  ball  is  natural  and  has  not  been  made  artificially, 
the  soil  about  the  roots  should  be  left  undisturbed .  It  is  not  even  neces- 
sary to  remove  the  burlap.  If,  however,  the  tree  has  been  dug  with  the 
roots  bare  and  then  dipped  in  a  clay  puddle  and  then  a  ball  has  been 
made  in  an  artificial  manner  by  pressing  the  soil  into  ball  form  and 
bending  and  twisting  the  roots,  the  soil  must  certainly  be  removed  at 
time  of  planting. 

"All  small  and  medium  sized  conifers  we  dig  with  a  natural  ball 
and  these  should  be  planted  without  breaking  the  ball.  With  trees 
above  five  or  six  feet,  we  dig  around  the  roots  and  work  in  toward  the 
trees  with  a  spading  fork.  We  remove  the  soil  from  the  entire  root 
system  around  the  side  of  the  ball  until  we  have  a  reasonable  size  ball 
still  remaining.  The  roots  are  all  gathered  up  and  wound  around  the 
ball,  which  is  burlapped  securely  when  the  tree  is  ready  for  shipping. 
In  the  case  of  this  style  of  treatment  it  is  necessary  to  remove  the  burlap 
and  set  out  the  roots  in  their  natural  position." 

The  Frozen  Ball  Method  of  Transplanting 

Although  this  method  is  employed  in  the  case  of  large  trees  as  well 
as  small  ones  and  shrubs,  it  is  with  the  latter  classes  that  the  private 
garden  owner  has  to  do;  when  a  large  tree  is  to  be  moved  he  sends  for 
the  professional  tree  mover— if  he  is  w^ise.  This  operation  begins  the 
Summer  or  even  the  year  before  it  is  desired  to  transplant  the  tree. 
At  this  time  a  trench  is  dug  around  the  specimen  about  the  width  of  a 
spade,  deep  enough  to  cut  all  the  main  roots,  and  far  enough  from  the 
trunk  to  insure  a  good  mass  of  earth  around  it.  If  the  tree  has  a  tap 
root  this  should  be  cut  with  a  sharp  spade  or  sod  cutter  thrust  in  hori- 
zontally under  the  root  ball. 

The  trench  should  then  be  filled  with  loose  earth,  manure  or  fitter 
of  any  sort.  When  Winter  comes  and  the  ground  is  frozen  hard  so 
that  the  entire  root  ball  can  be  moved,  the  trench  is  again  carefully 
opened  up  and  the  mass  of  roots  and  soil  lifted  out  and  taken  to  the  new 
location  which  should  have  been  prepared  before  the  ground  froze. 
The  next  Spring  when  it  softens  up  firm  the  soil  well  and  add  enough 
to  fill  up  the  hole  about  level  full. 

As  a  rule  no  shade  or  protection  is  called  for  by  shrubs  or  small 
trees.  However,  evergreens  are  sometimes  covered  with  damp  burlap 
or  heavy  paper  to  check  the  evaporation  that  would  otherwise  occur 


284  GARDEN  GUIDE 

under  a  strong,  bright  sun.  In  addition  to  the  trinuning  given  to 
balance  the  root  injury,  now  is  a  good  time  to  cut  out  any  dead  branches 
and  clean  up  the  shape  and  condition  of  the  specimen. 

Transplanting  Fruit  Trees 

This  operation  is  practically  the  same  as  that  described  for  shrubs 
except  that  as  fruits  are  rarely  moved  when  large,  the  dormant,  early 
Spring  or  late  Fall  method  is  the  one  most  commonly  used.  It  is  at 
these  times  that  fruit  trees  are  shipped  from  the  nurseries.  The 
pruning  of  newly  set  fruit  trees  is  generally  more  severe  than  that  of 
shrubs  or  ornamentals  as  it  is  usually  desirable  to  determine  the  form 
and  arrangement  of  the  head  at  this  time.  This  means  cutting  back 
the  main  stem,  removing  all  the  side  branches  bat  three  or  four  sym- 
metrically arranged  around  it  so  that  they  vill  not  develop  weak 
crotches,  and  cut  these  back  to  a  lengih  of  six  inches  or  so.  Peaches, 
according  to  one  system  of  training,  are  cut  back  to  a  single,  branch- 
less stem  or  "whip"  when  planted. 

Another  important  point  in  planting  fruit  trees  is  their  correct 
alignment.  Of  course  this  is  more  important  in  a  large  orchard  than 
in  the  home  fruit  garden,  but  even  here  straight,  evenly  spaced  rows 
make  a  good  appearance;  moreover  they  permit  the  most  economical 
use  of  the  space.  The  place  where  each  tree  should  stand  must  there- 
fore be  accurately  located  either  by  sighting  through  a  transit  or  farm 
level,  or  by  careful  measuring,  then  the  tree  must  be  set  right  there. 
One  of  the  best  ways  to  assure  this  result  is  to  use  a  planting  board. 
This  is  a  plank  about  five  feet  long  and  a  few  inches  wide  with  three 
notches  cut  into  it  along  one  side — one  near  either  end  and  one  in  the 
middle.  When  the  spot  for  each  tree  is  located  and  marked  with  a 
stake,  the  board  is  placed  with  the  center  notch  against  the  first  stake 
and  two  other  pins  are  stuck  in  the  ground  where  the  other  notches  are. 
The  board  and  the  central  peg  are  then  removed  and  the  hole  dug 
without  removing  the  two  guide  stakes.  When  it  is  deep  enough  the 
board  is  placed  back  against  the  two  pegs,  the  tree  placed  in  the  hole 
and  its  trunk  placed  in  the  center  notch  just  where  the  locating  peg 
originally  stood.  By  keeping  the  tree  in  this  position  until  the  hole  is 
filled  it  is  assured  of  its  exact  place. 

In  some  parts  of  the  country  transplanted  fruit  trees  have  to  be 
protected  against  the  depredations  of  field  mice,  rabbits,  etc.,  that 
gnaw  the  bark  off  the  trunks.  This  is  best  done  by  encircling  each  tree 
with  a  guard  or  protector  of  thin  wood  veneer,  wire  netting  or  stiff 
building  paper,  although  there  are  various  old  recipes  for  whitewashes 
and  evil-smelhng  mixtures  of  mud,  manures,  carbohc  acid,  etc., 
designed  to  repel  attacking  rodents. 


TRANSPLANTING  285 

Moving  Large  Trees 

As  already  suggested  this  is  really  a  task  for  professionals  who 
have  the  necessary  trucks,  tackles,  and  experience.  It  is  necessary 
only  to  explain  that  unless  they  use  the  frozen  ball  method,  they 
usually  go  about  the  digging  very  gradually  and  systematically,  be- 
ginning well  away  from  the  tree,  lifting  the  roots  carefully  and  picking 
out  the  soil  from  the  fibrous  masses.  They  then  separate  the  long  main 
roots,  wrap  each  in  burlap  and  tie  them  up  to  the  trunk  out  of  the  way. 
When  the  tree  is  loose  in  the  hole  it  is  tipped  onto  and  tied  to  a  low- 
hung  wagon  or  a  drag  and  hauled  to  its  new  position  where  the  roots 
are  spread  out  as  naturally  as  possible. 

Of  course  the  soil  must  be  replaced  with  great  care;  also  the  tree 
must  be  well  braced  and  guyed  until  it  takes  hold  and  secures  itself  in 
its  new  berth.  There  is  an  old  belief  held  to  by  many  that  a  trans- 
planted tree  will  not  live  unless  it  is  set  in  the  same  position  with  refer- 
ence to  the  points  of  the  compass  as  it  stood  before.  Often  this  can  be 
provided  for  by  noting  w^here  the  moss  or  greenish  tinge,  that  is  usually 
present  on  the  north  side  of  a  tree  trunk,  is  to  be  found.  We  are  not 
prepared  to  say  whether  this  theory  has  a  proved  scientific  basis  or  not. 

Fall  Planting  Opportunities 

Many  people  have  a  curious  notion  that  the  Spring  is  the  only 
natural  planting  time.  The  truth  is  that  experience  has  shown  that 
this  is  one  of  the  best  seasons  for  the  home  maker  to  set  out  trees  and 
shrubs.  For  one  thing,  work  presses  less  heavily  in  the  Autumn. 
There  are  fewer  things  to  do  in  the  flower  and  vegetable  gardens,  with 
the  result  that  more  time  is  left  to  devote  to  the  care  of  the  trees  and 
shrubbery,  without  which  no  suburban  or  country  home  is  complete. 
Then,  too,  the  nurserymen  themselves  are  less  rushed  in  the  Fall  and 
are  able  to  give  more  careful  attention  to  the  orders  which  they  receive. 
All  things  considered,  therefore,  there  is  no  better  time  to  transplant 
most  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs,  as  well  as  Raspberries,  Blackberries, 
Currants,  and  many  of  the  fruit  trees. 

There  are  some  exceptions.  Most  of  the  trees  which  have  stone 
fruits,  such  as  both  the  edible  and  ornamental  Peaches  and  Cherries, 
are  better  left  until  Spring  in  the  colder  section  of  the  country,  although 
they  are  planted  to  some  extent  in  the  Fall.  There  are  ornamentals, 
too,  with  soft,  fleshy  roots,  such  as  the  Magnohas,  which  it  is  best  not 
to  plant  at  this  season.  The  average  nurseryman  will  frankly  tell 
which  trees  are  not  suitable  for  Fall  setting. 

When  shrubs  and  trees  are  set  out  in  the  Fall,  they  make  growth 
quickly  in  the  Spring  and  often  are  much  farther  along  at  the  end  of 


286  GARDEN  GUIDE 

the  season  than  when  planting  is  left  until  the  Spring  months,  particu- 
larly if  the  Spring  is  a  late  one,  so  that  planting  has  to  be  delayed. 
One  other  point  in  favor  of  Fall  planting  might  be  mentioned,  although 
it  applies  especially  to  perennial  plants.  At  this  time  the  garden 
maker  has  a  lively  recollection  of  the  appearance  which  the  different 
plants  have  made  when  in  bloom,  and  is  therefore  able  to  choose  those 
which  he  would  like  for  his  own  garden  much  more  intelligently  than 
he  could  four  or  five  months  later  when  his  remembrance  of  the  past 
Summer's  experiences  will  have  become  dulled. 

Some  writers  have  asserted  that  the  Fall  is  not  a  good  time  to 
set  out  evergreens,  but  on  the  other  hand,  some  of  the  most  expert 
nurserymen  and  garden  makers  declare  that  the  results  from  Fall 
setting  are  fully  as  good,  if  not  better.  In  a  year  of  heavy  rainfall,  the 
planting  of  evergreens  can  be  done  with  perfect  safety.  In  seasons  of 
drought,  of  course,  no  plants  can  be  put  in  with  assurance  unless  a 
large  amount  of  moisture  is  available  to  be  apphed  artificially. 

One  reason  why  so  much  difficulty  is  found  in  transplanting  ever- 
greens of  any  kind  from  the  woods  or  the  fields  to  the  garden  is  because 
of  the  damage  which  is  unavoidably  done  to  the  root  system.  Plants 
growing  wild  make  very  long  roots  which  must  be  broken  off  in  getting 
them  out  of  the  ground.  Nursery  planted  stock,  on  the  other  hand, 
is  usually  shifted  so  often  that  the  roots  are  short  and  bunched  in  a 
soHd  mass  close  to  the  base  of  the  plant.  This  greatly  facihtates  trans- 
planting without  giving  the  trees  or  shrubs  a  setback,  and  is  the  prin- 
cipal reason  why  nursery  grown  stock  is  preferable  for  transplanting  to 
that  which  is  found  growing  wild. 

Operations  Resembling  Transplanting 

Not  greatly  different  from  transplanting  is  the  division  method  of 
propagation  of  herbaceous  perennials  discussed  elsewhere.  In  this, 
the  clump  or  crown  of  Iris,  Rhubarb,  Phlox,  etc.,  is  dug  up,  cut  into 
several  pieces  with  a  sharp  spade  or  knife — being  sure  that  each  piece 
carries  an  eye — then  each  piece  is  replanted  in  newly  enriched  and 
well-prepared  soil. 

There  is  also  "heehng  in,"  which  might  be  called  a  transplanting 
into  temporary  quarters  when  it  is  necessary  to  delay  setting  some 
plants  for  awhile.  To  do  this  dig  a  wide  but  shallow  trench  with  one 
end  gently  sloping;  against  this  lay  a  row  of  the  plants.  Sprinkle 
some  soil  over  their  roots,  then  lay  another  overlapping  layer  on  them 
shingle  fashion.  Continue  in  this  way  till  all  have  been  packed  in, 
compactly  but  with  their  roots  completely  covered  with  soil.  Fruit 
trees,  shrubs,  berry  bushes,  etc.,  can  be  kept  this  way  all  Winter  if 


TRANSPLANTING  287 

they  arrive  too  late  in  the  Fall  to  be  set  out;  or  for  several  weeks  in  the 
Spring  if  dehvered  before  satisfactory  conditions  for  planting  appear. 
Of  course  the  soil  in  and  on  top  of  the  trench  must  be  kept  moist  in 
very  dry  weather. 

Finally,  we  may  consider  sodding,  which  is  practically  the  trans- 
planting of  grass.  The  main  object  in  doing  this  well  is,  of  course,  to 
get  a  strip  of  strong  sod  of  uniform  width  and  thickness.  Success  will 
depend  largely  upon  having  a  good  turf  underlain  with  a  good  clean 
soil  free  from  stone,  to  cut  from.  Strips  a  foot  wide  and  any  desired 
length  are  first  cut  with  a  grass  edger  or  path  trimmer.  One  man  then 
cuts  the  strip  loose  by  sliding  a  spade  or  regular  sodding  tool  under  it, 
while  a  second  man  rolls  the  strip  tightly  toward  him.  As  a  rule 
pieces  two  and  a  half  to  three  feet  long  are  most  convenient  to  handle. 
As  in  all  transplanting,  the  soil  should  be  slightly  moist  for  best  results. 
The  ground  to  be  sodded  should  be  carefully  prepared  and  the  soil  fined 
and  made  perfectly  smooth  and  shghtly  higher  than  would  seem 
necessary.  Next  lay  the  strips  of  sod,  butting  them  tightly  together 
and  adding  or  removing  soil  beneath  wherever  this  is  necessary  to  pro- 
duce a  smooth  surface.  Fill  any  cracks  or  breaks  with  fine  soil  and 
when  a  considerable  area  is  sodded  go  over  it  and  pound  it  down  firmly 
with  the  back  of  a  flat-bladed  spade.  A  heavy  tamper  may  also  be  used 
or  a  lawn  roller,  provided  the  latter  is  not  permitted  to  move  or  loosen 
the  sod.  When  thoroughly  firmed,  water  the  new  grass  plot  well, 
soak  it  in  fact,  and  keep  up  a  program  of  rolling,  watering  and  cutting 
as  required  until  it  is  well  estabhshed.  Bare  spots  should  be  treated 
to  a  dusting  of  grass  seed. 

Here  again  we  find  of  most  importance  the  fundamental  sugges- 
tions or  precautions  back  of  all  transplanting:  Disturb  the  roots  as 
little  as  possible  (that  is,  cut  the  sod  as  deep  as  you  can  conveniently 
handle  it).  Do  not  expose  the  roots  to  the  sun  and  drying  wind  a 
moment  longer  than  absolutely  necessary.  Firm  the  soil  thoroughly 
after  transplanting  (in  this  case  by  beating  with  a  spade).  Water 
promptly  and  abundantly  whenever  necessary,  and  refrain  from  sprink- 
ling in  between.  Trim  back  the  top  growth  to  balance  the  unavoidable 
injury  to  the  feeding  root  system  (by  having  the  grass  cut  short  before 
cutting  the  sod  and  keeping  it  trimmed  after  it  is  in  place) . 


CHAPTER  XXI 


Winter  Protection 

Leaf  Coverings — Protecting  Lilies  and  Roses — Windbreaks  for 
Trees  and  Shrubs — Covering  Tender  Plants — ^Facts  About  Frost 

THAT  plants  or  shrubs  may  withstand  the  cold,  we  protect  them; 
but  it  is  mainly  to  shield  them  from  the  Winter  sun.      Some 
plants  may  be  heaved  from  the  soil  by  frosts;    when  thoroughly 
protected  such  heaving  does  not  take  place. 

Many  of  the  perennials  are  benefited  by  a  protection  in  Winter. 
The  sort  of  protection  perennials  need  is  one  which  will  shield  them 
from  Winter  and  earliest  Spring  suns,  which  start  the  plants  into 
growth  only  to  be  frozen  again  when  the  sun  has  set.  This  alternate 
freezing  and  thawing  is  the  main  cause  of  Winter  injury  to  shrubs  as 
well  as  perennials.  The  proper  protection,  then,  is  a  hght  layer  of 
straw  or  manure  or  leaves  applied  after  the  tops  have  been  killed  by 
frost. 

Leaf  Coverings 

It  is  usually  better  to  wait  until  the  ground  is  a  little  frozen  before 
applying  the  Winter  mulch.  It  prevents  a  premature  start  in  Spring, 
due  to  a  slight  heating  caused  by  fermentation.  Perennials  which 
retain  their  leaves  through  the  Winter,  as  well  as  biennials  and  Sweet 
Wilham,  Heuchera  and  many  others,  are  best  covered  with  straw  or 
leaves,  but  not  manure,  which  often  disfigures  the  foHage  due  to  its 
decay.     An  excellent  method,  however,  is  to  cover  the  beds  with 


Straw  or  Reed  Mats 

It  is  a  fairly  easy  matter  to  manufacture  a  good,  stout  reed  mat  or  straw  mat  for  pro- 
tective purposes.  A  ball  of  stout  cord  and  the  necessary  material  for  the  mat;  a  little 
dexterity  in  binding  these  into  bundles  and  in  twisting  the  cord,  as  shown  in  the  draw- 
ing, is  all  that  are  necessary.  These  mats  can  be  put  to  a  dozen  good  uses.  Supphed 
also  by  the  seedhouses 


WINTER  PROTECTION 


289 


Another  Form  of  Winter  Protection 

The  ordinary  coldframe,  especially  if  covered  with  mats  in  hard  weather,  is  suflBcient 

shelter  for  all  that  class  of  plants  which  are  spoken  of  as  "doubtfully  hardy."    Parsley 

can  be  Wintered  here;  Violets  can  be  grown  and  flowered  in  deep  frames;  tender  Roses 

and  shrubs  for  placing  out  of  doors  in  Summer  can  find  a  place 

evergreen  boughs  and  then  place  leaves  upon  these,  in  which  case  the 
leaves  are  prevented  from  matting.  Leaves  which  mat  together 
badly,  as  Elm,  Maple,  and  other  trees  which  drop  their  foliage  early, 
are  not  as  valuable  as  Oak.  Coverings  which  are  too  thick  cause  a 
premature  start  in  Spring,  resulting  in  crippled  growth  because  of  the 
late  frosts. 

Unless  the  perennials  are  diseased  the  tops  may  remain  during 
the  Winter;  breaking  or  cutting  them  off  often  exposes  the  growing 
points. 

Protecting  Lilies  and  Roses 

For  protecting  Lilies  a  mound  of  ashes,  placed  over  the  crown,  is 
frequently  advised.  The  Tiger,  the  Canada,  the  Coral,  the  Handsome, 
the  Thunbergian,  and  the  Turk's  Cap  can  be  successfully  protected  in 
this  manner.  We  have  had  occasion  before  to  mention  the  protection 
of  Eremurus,  which  consists  of  using  a  deep  box  filled  with  leaves  and 
left  over  the  plants  till  rather  late  in  the  season,  otherwise  the  young 
shoots  will  be  injured  in  the  Spring. 

Then  there  are  the  Roses.  When  rosarians  get  together  they  dis- 
cuss varieties  for  a  time;  then  the  question  usually  arises:  "What 
do  you  use  for  protecting  your  Roses?"  "Well,"  says  one,  "I  beheve 
that  a  protection  for  Roses  should  be  merely  a  sunshade,  not  an 
overcoat,  so  I  just  turn  a  box  over  the  tops  of  the  plants.  They 
always  Winter  as  well  that  way  as  any  other."  "They  really  need 
some  protection  from  the  cold,"  says  another,  "and  I  think  the  only 
way  to  protect  Roses  is  to  mound  up  all  the  Teas  and  Hybrid  Teas  so 
that  the  soil  is  almost  a  foot  deep  all  around  them,"  The  third 
gentleman  says  that  the  protection  afforded  by  something  placed  on 


290  GARDEN  GUIDE 

their  stems,  such  as  rye  straw,  is  best,  although  paper  is  an  excellent 
insulator  against  the  cold.  Climbers  are  well  protected  by  laying  them 
down  and  covering  them  with  evergreens  or  wrapped  in  burlap.  Any 
sort  of  frame  packed  with  leaves  is  a  trifle  dangerous,  for  the  leaves 
are  apt  to  ferment  and  cause  the  young  shoots  to  start  prematurely. 
Many  persons  dig  their  Teas  each  Fall  and  store  in  coldframes,  which 
usually  keeps  them  perfectly  but  is  rather  troublesome 

Windbreaks   for  Trees  and  Shrubs 

For  many  trees  and  shrubs  a  windbreak  will  be  the  proper  sort 
of  shelter  from  the  drying  winds  of  Winter.  Trees  are  apt  to  be 
injured  in  Winter  by  the  loss  of  water  by  evaporation  from  the  twigs; 
this  cannot  be  supplied  by  the  frozen  roots,  and  the  plant  dies.  Tem- 
porary fences  may  be  greeted  of  boards  or  Cornstalks  which  will 
give  the  required  break  to  the  full  sweep  of  the  wind.  Such  protection 
is  placed  on  the  south  side  Df  broad-leaved  evergreens  to  shield  them 
from  the  Winter  sun.  The  branches  of  either  deciduous  or  evergreen 
trees  should  be  tied  up  when  the  trees  are  somewhat  columnar  and 
are  susceptible  to  breaking  by  wind  or  snow.  This  is  especially  neces- 
sary with  Irish  Juniper. 

Tender  plants  and  newly  set  trees,  evergreens  and  others,  are 
successfully  protected  by  tying  them  together  and  covering  with 
Hemlock  boughs.  Other  trees  and  shrubs  are  covered  deeply  so  that 
the  roots  do  not  freeze,  in  which  case  many  are  encouraged  to  grow 
under  adverse  conditions. 

It  is  the  alternate  freezing  and  thawing  of  the  trunk  and  branches 
of  fruit  trees  that  causes  them  to  crack  open  on  the  south  side.  Low 
heading  is  the  only  precaution. 

Facts  About  Frost 

The  Weather  Bureau  recognizes  three  degrees  of  frost — lights 
when  the  tenderest  vegetation,  such  as  Peppers,  Melons,  Egg  Plant, 
Beans,  Heliotrope,  Coleus,  Nasturtium  and  Salvia,  is  injured;  heavy, 
when  the  hardier  sorts  are  damaged  and  the  tender  ones  quite  destroyed; 
and  killing,  when  the  staple  crops  of  the  region  are  killed 

In  the  garden  the  first  type  is  commonly  the  most  disastrous 
because  it  comes  with  the  least  warning  and  occurs  early  in  the  Fall 
and  late  in  the  Spring  when  the  gardener  is  off  his  guard.  Moreover, 
the  first  Fall  frost  is  usually  followed  by  some  weeks  of  fine,  mild 
weather  during  which  even  the  tender  plants,  if  they  had  been  pro- 
tected during  the  cold  snap,  might  have  continued  to  gjxm,  blossom 
and  ripen  fruit. 


WINTER  PROTECTION  '  291 

Notwithstanding  the  claims  of  so-called  "weather  sharks,"  it  is 
impossible  to  consistently  forecast  local  frost  without  systematic 
knowledge  of  conditions  over  a  wide  area.  It  is  far  better  to  rely  on 
the  experienced,  scientifically  worked  out  predictions  of  the  Weather 
Bureau  reinforced  by  a  knowledge  of  the  conditions  that  are  favorable 
to  frost  occurrence.  Then  when  frost  warnings  are  issued  one  can 
judge  whether  or  not  precautions  are  essential  in  his  immediate 
locality. 

Conditions  That  Suggest  Frost 

1.  Weather  comes  in  "waves,"  hence  an  abnormally  warm  spell 
during  the  frost  season  is  liable  to  be  followed  by  a  sudden  drop  in 
temperature. 

2.  A  clear  sky  permits  increased  radiation  and  improves  the 
chances  of  frost. 

3.  The  passing  of  a  storm  is  usually  followed  by  "clearing  and 
colder,"  which  often  means  a  frost. 

4.  A  still,  clear  air  with  a  steadily  falling  temperature  in  the  late 
afternoon  is  a  good  sign  of  frost. 

5.  Frosts  are  more  hkely  to  occur  in  the  open  country  and  in 
small  villages  than  in  and  near  large  cities;  they  occur  on  lowlands  and 
in  "pockets"  and  valleys  sooner  than  on  hillsides;  they  are  less  frequent 
near  bodies  of  water  than  away  from  lakes,  the  ocean,  etc.;  northern, 
western,  eastern  and  southern  slopes  are  frosty  in  decreasing  order  as 
given;  sandy,  well  drained,  and  dark  colored  soils  are  less  liable  to 
frost  than  heavy  clays  and  wet,  poorly  tilled,  light  colored  types. 

To  Ward  Off  Frost 

Since  frosts  accompany  dry,  clear,  still  air  and  the  radiation  of 
heat  from  the  ground  and  plants,  the  following  methods  of  preventing 
them  can  be  employed  in  the  small  garden  according  to  the  means  at 
hand:  (1)  Heating  of  the  air  by  means  of  smudge  fires,  orchard 
heaters,  etc.;  (2)  the  moistening  of  the  air  by  means  of  sprays;  (3) 
a  combination  of  (1)  and  (2),  such  as  the  discharge  of  waste  steam  into 
the  air;  (4)  ventilation,  or  the  stirring  of  the  atmosphere,  to  prevent  the 
setthng  of  layers  of  cold  air  on  the  plants;  (5)  irrigation  by  the  furrow  or 
flooding  system;  (6)  the  covering  of  tender  plants  with  cloths,  paper,  a 
mulch,  etc.;  (7)  the  spraying  of  the  plants  themselves  both  to  prevent 
the  formation  of  frost  and  to  help  thaw  out  hardy  plants  that  may  have 
been  touched  overnight. 


292  GARDEN  GUIDE 

Fall  Treatment  of  Plants  with  Reference  to  Frost 

Vegetables. — Perennials,  such  as  Asparagus,  Horse  Radish, 
Jerusalem  Artichoke  and  Strawberries  are  entirely  hardy.  It  is, 
however,  well  to  mulch  them  after  the  ground  freezes,  partly  to  prevent 
alternate  thawing  and  freezing,  which  tend  to  heave  them  out  of  the 
ground,  and  partly  to  add  plant  food  to  be  dug  in  in  the  Spring. 

Annuals  may  be  put  into  four  groups  with  relation  to  their 
abihty  to  withstand  frost,  as  follows: 

1.  Entirely  hardy.  Those  marked  a  may  be  sown  or  planted  in 
late  Fall  for  early  Spring  use.  The  rest  may  be  left  in  the  garden  to 
be  harvested  as  needed.  For  convenience  it  is  well  to  mulch  the  root 
crops  to  make  digging  easier:  Broccoli,  Brussels  Sprouts,  Corn  Salad 
(a),  Kale,  Leek,  Parsnips,  Salsify,  Witloof  Chicory  (a),  Spinach  (may 
be  handled  both  ways). 

2.  Hardy.  These  will  stand  a  light  freeze  but  should  be  harvested 
before  the  ground  freezes  sohd.  In  the  case  of  frosted  Lettuce,  thaw 
out  slowly  in  ice  water  and  use  at  once.  Carrots,  Lettuce,  Onions, 
Peas,  Rutabagas. 

3.  Fairly  hardy.  These  will  stand  a  light  frost  and  do  their  best 
in  cool  weather:  Beets,  Cabbage,  Cardoon,  Cauliflower,  Celery,  Celery 
Cabbage  (Pe-tsai),  Kohl-Rabi,  Potatoes,  Radishes,  Swiss  Chard. 

4.  Practically  all  other  vegetables  need  warm  weather  in  which 
to  make  good  growth,  and  protection  from  even  the  lightest  frost. 

Flowers.  Perennials  are,  of  course,  hardy  as  to  root,  even 
though  their  tops  may  be  killed  down.  The  following,  however, 
continue  to  bloom  well  after  the  first  frost:  Chrysanthemum,  Gail- 
lardia  grandiflora,  Antirrhinum  majus.  Coreopsis  lanceolata,  Lathyrus 
latifoHus. 

Annual  sorts  growing  from  bulbs  that  are  hardy  and  that  therefore 
can  be  planted  in  the  Fall  for  Spring  blooming,  include:  Lihes,  Crown 
Imperial,  Hyacinth,  Lily  of  the  Valley,  Narcissus,  Scilla,  Tulips. 

Narcissus  for  best  results  should  be  dug  after  flowering  and  allowed 
to  ripen  before  being  replanted  in  the  Fall. 

Plants  with  tender  bulbs  which  should  be  dug  after  frost  has 
killed  or  blackened  the  tops  but  before  the  ground  freezes,  include  the 
following:  Begonia  (Tuberous),  Caladium,  Cafla,  Dahlia,  Gladiolus, 
Tritoma,  Tuberose. 

Of  non-bulbous  annuals  which  are  not  expected  to  last  more 
than  one  season,  there  are  some  that  continue  to  bloom  even  after  a 
mild  frost.  Among  these  are  Aster,  Cosmos,  Sweet  Alyssum,  Clarkia, 
Marigold,  Pansy,  Ten-Weeks  Stock,  etc. 


CHAPTER  XXII 

Some  Insect  Pests  of  Cultivated  Plants 

By  W.  E.  Britton 

State  Entomologist,  Agricultural  Experiment  Station,  New  Haven,  Conn. 

The  Life  of  an  Insect — Spraying  Equipment — Materials  Used 

to    Control   Insect   Pests — Fumigants — Insect   Pests   Arranged 

by  Host  Plants 

THERE  is  scarcely  a  crop  grown  which  is  not  attacked  and  injured  by 
insects.     It  has  been  estimated  that  at  least  one-tenth  of  all  crops 
in  the  United  States  is  destroyed  each  year  by  insects.    This  total 
damage  amounts  to  fully  $1,000,000,000.00  annually. 

This  article  has  been  prepared  so  that  the  amateur  may  have  a  simple 
guide  at  hand  for  convenient  reference.  A  part  of  the  material  and  illus- 
trations have  appeared  in  the  Spray  Calendar  published  by  the  Connecti- 
cut Agricultural  Experiment  Station,  and  are  here  printed,  by  permission, 
in  somewhat  different  form. 

The  Life  of  an  Insect 

Insects  are  very  abundant  and  occur  everywhere.  Though  some  are 
called  injurious  because  they  attack  and  injure  or  destroy  plants  or  plant 
materials,  or  infest  animals  which  man  has  raised  for  his  own  use,  there  are 
many  beneficial  insects:  some  furnish  food,  like  the  honey  bee,  some  provide 
clothing  material,  like  the  silkworm,  many  are  parasites  upon  noxious  in- 
sects, and  many  species  of  bees  pollinate  the  flowers  of  fruit  and  garden 
trees  and  plants,  thus  assuring  a  crop.  Most  insects  have  four  distinct 
stages  in  their  cycle  of  development: 

1.  Egg 

2.  Larva    (caterpillar,    grub,    maggot,    etc.) 

3.  Pupa  (chrysalis) 

4.  Adult 

In  several  large  groups,  including  the  grasshoppers,  true  bugs,  aphids, 
scale  insects,  etc.,  the  insects  do  not  pass  through  the  distinct  larval  and 
pupal  stages  but  undergo  a  gradual  development  from  the  time  they 
hatch  from  the  eggs  until  the  adult  stage  is  reached. 

Insects  may  be  div  ided  roughly  into  biting  or  chewing  (like  the  Colorado 
potato  beetle)  and  sucking  (like  the  aphids  and  scale  insects).  Against  the 
former  we  can  use  arsenical  poisons,  but  to  kill  the  latter  we  must  use  con- 
tact insecticides.  Both  may  be  killed  with  fumigants.  The  two  forms  are 
illustrated  on  page  308. 

Spraying  Equipment 

Every  one  who  grows  plants  should  be  provided  with  some  convenient 
form  of  pump  for  applying  sprays  and  should  keep  in  stock  a  few  of  the 
materials  most  often  used,  so  as  to  be  available  at  a  moment's  notice  when 
needed. 

For  the  small  garden,  one  of  the  most  convenient  pumps  is  the  small 
compressed  air  outfit  holding  from  three  to  four  gallons.  If  a  knapsack 
sprayer  or  bucket  outfit  be  possessed,  either  can  be  made  to  answer  the 

293 


294  GARDEN  GUIDE 

purpose.  For  more  extensive  operations  a  wheel  outfit  with  tank  holding 
twenty-five  gallons  is  desirable,  especially  in  the  vegetable  garden.  A 
barrel  pump  is  essential  to  obtain  sufficient  power  to  spray  large  fruit  trees 
and  special  power  outfits  are  now  being  used  in  large  orchards,  potato  fields, 
and  for  spraying  shade  and  woodland  trees.  Nearly  all  pump  manufac- 
turers make  outfits  corresponding  to  those  just  mentioned.  For  under  leaf 
spraying,  a  pipe,  bent  at  a  right  angle,  with  a  nozzle  near  the  elbow,  is 
essential. 

For  dusting,  the  grower  may  purchase  a  powder  gun  or  a  shaker,  ac- 
3ording  to  the  amount  of  work  to  be  done.  In  the  small  garden,  a  shaker 
may  be  improvised  by  punching  small  holes  in  a  tin  can,  or  by  shaking  the 
poison  through  the  meshes  of  a  cheesecloth  bag. 

Lead  Arsenate  should  be  kept  on  hand,  preferably  in  the  dry  or  pow- 
dered form.  This  may  be  applied  either  as  a  dust  or  as  a  spray  and  keeps 
in  better  condition  than  the  paste,  which  is  apt  to  become  frozen,  or  lumpy 
from  drying,  or  to  corrode  the  container.  The  dry  form  may  be  kept  in- 
definitely. Some  standard  nicotine  preparation  should  also  be  kept  in 
slock  for  dilution,  to  be  used  against  sucking  insects. 

Most  of  the  other  materials  herein  mentioned  may  be  procured  as 
needed  from  the  local  seed  or  hardware  store,  or  from  druggists.  In  large 
operations  home  mixing  is  usually  more  satisfactory  and  economical,  but 
the  small  grower  will  often  prefer  to  buy  ready  prepared  insecticides,  and 
he  should  find  them  satisfactory  if  put  out  by  reputable  manufacturers, 
and  if  he  follows  directions. 

Materials  Used  to  Control  Insect  Pests 

Stomach  Poisons — To  Kill  Chewing  Insects 

To  be  used  in  the  proportion  of 
LEAD  3  lbs.  paste,  or  l>o  lbs.  dry  powder  lead  arsenate. 

ARSENATE  50  gallons  water. 

Apply  as  a  spray.  The  dry  powder  may  also  be  sifted  upon  the  plants 

A  vegetable  powder  to  be  sifted  upon  the  plants  or  to  be  mixed 

HELLEBORE  with  water,  1  ounce  in  2  gallons,  and  applied  as  a  spray.    Hellebore 

loses  its  value  on  long  standing.    Hence  fresh  stock  should  always 

be  purchased  from  the  wholesale  druggist,  and  it  should  be  kept  in  a  tightly-stoppered 

container. 

Wheat  bran 5  lbs. 

POISONED  Paris  green  or  white  arsenic 4  oz. 

BRAN  Lemon  or  orange 1  fruit 

MASH  Molasses 1  pint 

Water 7  pints 

Mix  bran  and  poison  together,  dry.  Squeeze  juice  of  lemon  into  water  and  then  cut 
pulp  and  peel  into  fine  pieces  and  add  to  water,  then  add  molasses  and  stir.  Add  syrup  to 
bran  and  mix  thoroughly.  To  kill  cutworms  the  mash  should  be  scattered  oyer  the  field 
iust  before  dark,  preferably  a  few  days  before  the  plants  are  set.  Also  effective  in  killing 
grasshoppers. 

Contact  Insecticides — To  Kill  Sucking  Insects 

COMMERCIAL  1   part  lime-sulphur  )  For  dormant  or  Winter  spray  to  kill  San 

LIME-SULPHUR     9  parts  water  j  Jose  scale. 

3/2  pint  (40  per  cent,  nicotine  sulphate) 
NICOTINE  50  gallons  water  or  1  teaspoonful  in  a  gallon. 

SOLUTION  2  pounds  common  soap. 

May  be  added  to  any  of  the  other  sprays  mentioned  herein  by 
omitting  the  soap. 
COMMON  SOAP     1  pound  common  laundry  soap. 
AND  WATER  8  gallons  water. 


INSECT  PESTS  ^95 

MISCIBLE  OIL        li  rarts'vJaS '  "^ }  ^^  <^™^  -  ^-*-  ^P-^^' 

2  gallons  kerosene. 
KEROSENE  14  pound  common  soap. 

EMULSION  1  gallon  water. 

Dissolve  the  soap  in  h.ot  water,  add  the  kerosene  and  churn  violently 
together  until  a  creamy  mass  is  formed  which  thickens  upon 
cooUng.    Dilute  nine  times  before  using. 

Fumigants 

Carbon  Disulphide  (Bisulphide).  This  is  an  ill-smeHing,  inflam- 
mable liquid  which  can  be  purchased  in  poimd  bottles.  It  volatilizes  readily 
at  warm  room  temperatures,  and  is  especially  valuable  for  fumigating 
stored  seeds  which  are  infested  by  weevils  or  other  insects.  The  liquid 
should  be  placed  in  a  shallow  dish  on  top  of  the  seeds,  and  the  receptacle 
should  be  covered  tightly  and  allowed  to  remain  from  24  to  36  hours;  two 
fluid  ounces  are  sufiicient  for  the  ordinary  flour  barrel  or  its  equivalent.  In 
fumigating  rooms  and  buildings,  about  10  pounds  are  required  for  each 
1000  cubic  feet  of  space. 

Hydrocyanic  Acid  Gas.  Caution:  This  gas  is  deadly  to  all  kinds  of 
animal  and  human  life,  and  should  be  used  with  great  care.  It  may  be  pre- 
pared from  the  materials  and  in  the  proportions  given  below: 

Sodium  cyanide  1  oz.  (avoirdupois) 

Sulphuric  acid  (commercial)  2  oz.  (fluid) 

Water  4  oz.  (fluid) 

This  quantity  is  adequate  for  each  100  cubic  feet  of  space  for  use  on 
dormant  nursery  stock,  dry  seeds,  buildings,  etc. 

For  greenhouses,  coldframes,  and  hotbeds  containing  growing  plants, 
use  one-half  ounce  of  cyanide  with  proportionate  amounts  of  acid  ancj 
water  for  each  1000  cubic  feet  of  space. 

The  cubic  contents  of  the  space  to  be  fumigated  should  first  be  com- 
puted carefully.  The  space  should  then  be  made  as  tight  as  possible,  leavmg 
doors,  windows,  or  other  openings  which  can  be  manipulated  from  the  out- 
side for  the  purpose  of  airing. 

Stoneware  crocks  or  earthenware  jars  may  be  used  as  generators,  and 
should  be  so  placed  as  to  give  the  best  possible  distribution  of  the  gas.  The 
proportionate  quantity  of  acid  and  water  should  be  measured  for  each,  and 
the  cyanide  weighed  and  placed  in  paper  or  cheesecloth  bags.  The  water 
should  be  placed  in  the  jar  and  the  acid  poured  in  carefully  with  constant 
stirring.  When  all  is  ready,  quickly  drop  each  bag  into  its  jar,  retiring 
quickly,  and  lock  the  door.  For  greenhouses  the  exposure  should  be  for  30 
minutes,  preferably  toward  night,  or  when  the  sun  does  not  shine  and  when 
the  plants  are  dry.  For  dormant  nursery  stock,  30  minutes.  Buildings, 
granaries,  etc.,  may  remain  closed  over  night.  Open  two  or  more  openings 
from  the  outside  and  wait  for  30  minutes  before  going  inside.  Then  quickly 
open  all  sources  of  ventilation  without  breathing  the  gas. 

General  Recommendations 

Where  possible,  practice  rotation,  and  do  not  grow  the  same  crops  on 
any  piece  of  ground  year  after  year.  Always  remove  or  destroy  all  tops, 
rubbish,  etc.,  which  may  harbor  insects.  Give  the  plants  clean  culture 
and  allow  no  weeds  in  the  garden. 

If  pests  appear  which  you  cannot  identify,  write  and  send  specimens 
to  your  State  Agricultural  Experiment  Station  for  information  and  advice. 


t96 


GARDEN   GUIDE 


Insect  Pests — Arranged  by  Host  Plants 


Canker  Worms 


APPLE 
Leaf -Grumpier:  Case  Bearers:  Bud- 
Moths:  Several  kinds  pass  the  Winter  as 
small  caterpillars  and  feed  upon  the  un- 
folding leaves,  occasionally  doing  consider- 
able damage.  Spray  with  lead  arsenate  as 
soon  as  trees  begin  to  look  green;  repeat  a 
week  later. 

Canker  Worms: 
Small  looping  cater- 
pillars feed  upon  the 
leaves  during  May, 
and  when  disturbed 
spin  down  on  silken 
threads.  Spray  fo- 
liage with  lead  ar- 
senate before  blos- 
som buds  open,  and 
again  soon  after  the 
petals  fall.  In  un- 
sprayed  orchards 
sticky  bands  of  tree- 
tanglefoot  should  be 
placed  around  the 
trees  late  in  October, 
and  kept  sticky  un- 
til January  ist,  and 
again  kept  sticky  from  April  ist  to  June  ist. 

Tent  Cater- 
pillar :  Forms 
nests  at  the  forks 
of  the  branches 
during  the 
month  of  May 
and  the  cater- 
pillars devour 
the  leaves. 
Spray  with  lead 
arsenate  just 
before  blossoms 
open  and  again 
after  they  fall. 
Egg-masses  may 
be  clipped  off 
and  burned  dur- 
Tent  Caterpillar  i"S  Winter,  and 

the   nests    may 
be  removed  with  a  cone-shaped  brush. 

Codl ing 
Moth  or  Apple 
Worm :  Larva 
burrows  inside 
the  fruit,  par- 
ticularly around 
the  core.  Spray 
with  lead  arsen- 
ate soon  after 
blossoms  fall 
and  repeat  three 
to  four  weeks 
later.  Both  fo- 
liage and  fruit 
should  be  kept 
well  covered 
with  spray 
until  fruit  is 
nearly  grown. 


Gipsy  Molh 


Codling  Moth  or  Apple 
Worm 


Lesser  Apple  Worm:  Feeds  on  the 
surface  of  fruit  that  is  nearly  mature,  often 
injuring  it  in  storage.  Spray  as  for  Codling 
Moth. 

Gipsy  Moth: 
Occurs  in  the 
United  States 
only  in  South- 
eastern New 
England. 
Brownish,  hairy 
caterpillars  de- 
foliate the  trees 
in  May  and 
June.  Spray 
foliage  with  lead 
arsenate,  using 
5  to  10  pounds 
of  the  paste  in 
50  gallons  of 
water.  From 
August  to  May, 
seek  for  egg 
clusters  and 
destroy  them  in 
situ  by  soaking 
with  creosote. 
Band  trees  with 
tree  tanglefoot. 
Leaf-roller:  Green  Fruit  Worms: 
Palmer  Worm:  Caterpillars  feed  upon 
leaves  and  partly  grown  fruit,  often  seri- 
ously injuring  it.  Spray  with  lead  arsenate 
as  for  codling  moth. 

Tussock  Moths:  Tufted  caterpillars  of 
several  species  feed  upon  the  leaves  the 
latter  half  of  Summer.  The  white-marked 
tussock  moth  and  the  hickory  tussock  moth 
are  usually  the  most  abundant  and  there- 
fore the  chief  offenders.  Spray  with  lead 
arsenate  as  for  codling  moth. 

Red-humped  Caterpillar:  Yellow- 
necked  Caterpillar:  Feed  in  clusters  on 
ends  of  branches,  often  stripping  young  trees 
in  August  and  September.  Gather  by  hand 
and  destroy,  or  spray  the  foliage  with  lead 
arsenate. 

Fall  Web-worm:  Brown-tail  Moth: 
See  Pear. 

Curculios:  Grubs  of  both  Apple  and 
Plum  curculios  infest  the  fruit,  making  it 
gnarled  and  ill-shaped.  Spray  twice  after 
blossoms  fall,  and  remove  infested  fruit  in 
thinning. 

Apple  Maggot  or  Railroad  Worm: 
Small,  legless  white  maggots  burrow  in  the 
flesh  of  the  ripening  fruit  of  sweet  and  sub- 
acid varieties,  especially  those  ripening 
early  in  the  season.  Will  greatly  injure 
fruit  in  storage  unless  kept  at  a  low  tempera- 
ture. Keep  trees  sprayed  with  lead  arsenate 
as  for  codling  moth.  Destroy  all  infested 
fruit. 


INSECT  PESTS 


297 


Round-headed  Borer 


R  o  u  n  d  - 
headed  Borer: 
Flat-headed 
Borer:  Grubs 
tunnel  in  the 
trunk  near  the 
ground.  Dig 
out  the  borers 
wherever  saw- 
dust appears. 
Apply  a  mixture 
of  lime-sulphur 
and  lead  ar- 
senate to  the 
trunks. 

Leaf-  blister 
Mite  :       See 

Pear. 


Red  Spider: 
Clover      Mite : 

.     ,  Injure     the 

leaves,  especially  in  dry  seasons,  by  feeding 
on  the  surface,  causing  them  to  turn  yellow 
or  rusty  in  color.  Eggs  of  clover  mite  are 
often  abundant  on  tree  trunks  through  the 
Winter  and  are  orange  red  in  color;  they 
are  killed  by  the  lime-sulphur  spray  in  early 
Spring.  For  Summer  treatment  spray 
leaves  with  kerosene  emulsion  or  nicotine 
solution. 

Apple  Red- 
Bugs:  Two 
species  of  red  leaf- 
bugs  suck  the  sap, 
causing  the  leaves 
to  become  dis- 
torted, and  the 
fruit  to  be  ir- 
regular with  de- 
pressed spots 
usually  most 
abundant  near 
blossom  end. 
Spray  with  nico- 
tine solution  (i 
pint  in  50  gallons 
water)  either  sep- 
arately or  in  com- 
bination with  lead  arsenate,  lime-sulphur 
or  Bordeaux  mixture. 

Tarnished  Plant  Bugs:  Suck  the  sap 
from  the  fruit,  dimples  developing  from  the 
punctures.  Spray  with  nicotine  solution  as 
for  Red  Bugs. 

Leaf  Hoppers :  Whitish  insects  sucking 
sap  from  the  under  side  of  the  leaves,  caus- 
ing a  whitish  spotting  or  mottling  on  upper 
surface.  Spray  with  nicotine  solution  as 
for  Red  Bugs. 

Woolly  Apple  Aphids :  A  white,  woolly 
or  cottony  mass  on  bark  represents  a  colony 
of  this  aphid,  which  sucks  the  sap,  forming 
swellings  or  galls  on  the  twigs.  It  clusters 
in  wounds  and  prevents  healing.  It  also 
forms  galls  on  the  roots,  and  often  the 
smaller  roots  decay.  Plant  only  clean  or 
fumigated  stock.  Apply  tobacco  dust  liber- 
ally and  work  into  the  soil  around  trees. 


Apple  Red-Bugs 


Rosy  and  Green  A  phids 


Spray  with  kerosene  emulsion  to  kill  aphids 
on  twigs. 

Rosy  and 
Green  Aphids: 

Rosy  aphids 
attack  the  fruit 
clusters     which 
fail  to  develop, 
and    also    the 
leaves,    causing 
them    to    curl. 
The      green 
aphids    usually 
attack  only  the 
leaves    of    ter- 
minal       shoots 
and      water 
sprouts,  causing 
them     to    curl, 
thus     checking 
the    growth. 
Spray      with 
nicotine      solu- 
tion as  for  Red 
Bugs. 
Oyster-shell      Scale: 
Scurfy     Scale:     Both 
occur  on  the  bark  and  are 
elongated  or  pear-shaped 
shells,   the  former  about 
the    same    color    as    the 
bark;  the  latter,  light  gray 
or   whitish.     The    insect 
under  the  shell  sucks  sap 
from    the    twigs.     Spray 
with    nicotine      solution, 
soap  and  water,  or  kero- 
sene emulsion  about  the 
second  week  in  June. 

Oyster-shell  San  Jose  Scale:     See 

Scale  Peach.     Illus. 


ASH 
Oyster-Shell-Scale:     See  Apple. 


ASPARAGUS 

As  para  g  u  s 
Beetles:  Both 
adults  and  larvae 
of  the  common 
asparagus  beetle, 
and  the  twelve- 
spotted  asparagus 
beetle  feed  upon 
the  leaves,  often 
injuring  new  plan- 
tations.  Cut 
everything  clean 
during  the  cutting 
season;  later 
spray  with  lead 
arsenate.  New 
plantations 
should  be  sprayed 
when  the  beetles 
Common  Asparagus  Beetle  first  appear. 


298 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


ASTERS 


Aster  Blister  Beetli 


quickly 
clear  them. 
Some  cover 


after  that  with  mosquito  netting 

BARLEY 
Army  Worm :     See  Grass. 

BEAN 

Weevil :  Ad  ults  lav  eggs 
in  the  pods  in  the  field  and 
keep  on  breeding  in  the 
dried  seed,  finally  ruining  it 
for  planting  or  for  food. 
Fumigating  for  36  hours 
with  carbon  disulphide, 
using  about  two  fluid  ounces 
in  a  shallow  dish  on  top  of 
the  seed  in  a  tightly-covered 
barrel  will  kill  the  weevils 
Bean  Weevil  without  injuring  the  beans 
for  food  or  for  plantmg. 
Mixing  the  beans  with  an  equal  weight  of 
air-slaked  lime  will  prevent  damage.  If  to 
be  used  for  food  only,  the  beans  may  be 
heated  in  the  oven  to  kill  weevils,  but  if 
the  temperature  approaches  150°  F.  the 
vitality  of  the  seeds  is  endangered. 

Green  Clover  Worm:  Occasionally 
slender,  green,  wriggling  caterpillars  riddle 
the  leaves  in  July.  Dust  string  beans  with 
a  fine  powder.  Beans  to  be  shelled  may  be 
sprayed  with  lead  arsenate. 

Aphids :    Black  aphids  on  leaves  and  new 
shoots  sucking  the  sap.  Spray  with  nicotine 
solution. 


BEET- 
SWISS  CHARD 
Leaf-  Miner : 

A  small  fly  lays 
eggs  in  the  leaves 
and  the  maggots 
tunnel  or  mine 
between  the  upper 
and  lower  leaf- 
surfaces.  Destroy 
all  infested  leaves 
and  practice  late 
fall  plowing.  De- 
stroy all  plants 
of  the  weed 
known  as  "lambs' 
quarters"in  which 
this  insect  breeds. 


BIRCH 

Tussock  Moths:  See  Apple,  Hickory 
and  Horse  Chestnut. 

Birch  Leaf  Skeletonizer:  Small  yellow- 
ish larvae  feed  on  both  sides  of  the  leaves  in 
late  Summer,  often  stripping  the  trees. 
Spray  in  July  with  lead  arsenate. 

Bronze  Birch  Borer:  The  grub  makes 
a  spiral  tunnel  just  under  the  bark  of  upper 
main  branches,  ridges  showing  on  the  out- 
side. Often  kills  trees.  Cut  and  burn 
infested  trees  before  May  ist. 

BLACKBERRY 

Blackberry  Sawfly:  Larvae  feed  upon 
leaves  in  June  and  July.  Spray  with  lead 
arsenate  about  June  isth. 

Blackberry  Crown  Borer:  Grub  tun- 
nels in  larger  roots  and  at  base  of  stem. 
No  remedy  except  to  dig  out  and  destroy. 

Red-necked  Cane  Borer:  Grub  tun- 
nels in  stalks,  forming  galls  or  swellings 
often  three  inches  long.  Cut  and  burn  all 
infested  canes  in  Winter  or  early  Spring. 

BOX 

Leaf -miner:  A  small  two-winged  fly 
lays  eggs  in  the  leaf  and  the  larvae  tunnel 
between  the  upper  and  lower  surfaces. 
Destroy  infested  leaves.  Fumigate  the 
plants  with  hydrocyanic  acid  gas. 

Oyster-shell  Scale:     See  Apple. 

CABBAGE-CAULIFLOWER 


Cabbage 
Worm :  Velvety 
green  worms  feed 
on  leaves  through- 
out  the  season. 
Spray  unheaded 
plants  with  lead 
arsenate.  Use 
insect  powder  or 
hellebore  on 
headed  plants. 


Cabbage 
Looper:  Smooth 
looping  caterpillar 
feed  with  preced- 
ing in  the  late 
Summer  and  often 
tunnel  into  the 
cabbage  head. 
Spray  as  for  cab- 
bage  worm. 


Leaf-Miner 


Cabbage  Looper 


INSECT  PESTS 


Cabbage  Maggot 


Cabbage  Mag- 
got: Tunnels  in 
stem  and  main 
root  of  early  set 
plants,  near  sur- 
face of  ground, 
checking  growth 
and  often  killing 
the  plants.  Place 
tarred  paper  discs 
around  stems 
when  plants  are 
set.  Practice  crop 
rotation. 

Cabbage 
Aphis:  Clustered 
underneath  the 
leaves,  this  insect  sucks  the  sap.  often 
causing  much  injury.  Underspray  with 
nicotine  or  kerosene  emulsion. 

CARNATION 
Aphid  or  Green  Fly:     Sucks  the  sap 
from  stems,  leaves  and  buds.     Spray  with 
nicotine  solution,  soap  and  water,  or  fumi- 
gate with  tobacco. 

CELERY 
Celery  Cater- 
pillar :  Devours 
the  leaves  of  <;elery, 
fennel,  parsnip,  par- 
sley and  carrot. 
Hand  picking  is  us- 
ually the  best  rem- 
edy. Parsnip  and 
carrot  may  be 
'  sprayed  with  lead 
•arsenate. 


Cherry 

or 

Pear 

Slug 


CHERRY 

Cherry  or  Pear  Slug:  Eats  on  upper 
surface  of  leaf.  Spray  with  hellebore  or 
lead  arsenate. 

Canker  Worms :     See  Apple. 

Cherry  Maggots  or  Fruit  Flies:  Larvae 
of  two  species  infest  ripening  fruit.  Sprinkle 
foliage  in  early  June  with  sweetened  lead 
arsenate  to  kill  the  adults. 


Cherry  Aphids:  A  brown  aphid  on 
under  side  of  leaves,  sucking  sap  and 
curling  the  leaves.  Spray  with  nicotine 
solution,  kerosene  emulsion  or  soap  and 
water. 

CHESTNUT-CHINQUAPIN 
Canker  Worms:     See  Apple. 

Nut    Weevils: 

Long-nosed  snout 
beetles  lay  eggs  in 
developing  fruit 
and  the  grub 
infest  the  nuts. 
Destroy  all  in- 
fested nuts.  Fum- 
igate nuts  with 
carbon  disulphide 
as  for  beans. 

Two  -  lined 
Chestnut  Borer: 
Slender,  flat- 
headed  grubs 
tunnel  under  bark 
of  chestnut  and 
oak  trees.  Badly 
infested  trees 
should  be  burned, 
or  the  bark  re- 
moved before  insects  mature  and  spread 
to  other  trees. 


Weeviled  Chestnut 


CHR  Y  SANTHEMUM 
Aphis  or  Black  Fly:  Sucks  the  sap 
from  the  tender  leaves  and  flower  stems. 
Spray  plants  with,  or  dip  them  in,  nicotine 
solution  or  soap  and  water.  Fumigate  with 
tobacco.  A  steady  stream  of  water  from 
your  hose  will  often  prove  effective. 

CINERARIA 
Aphis  or  Green  Fly:     Sucks  sap  from 
new  leaves  and  stems.     Treat  as  for  pre- 
ceding. 

COLUMBINE 
Columbine     Leaf -miner:         A     two- 
winged  fly  lays  eggs  on  the  leaves  and  the 
maggots   tunnel    between   the   upper   and 
lower    surfaces. 
Destroy     the 
leaves     first     in- 
tested     and     cul- 
tivate the  ground 
around  the  plants. 


CORN 

Cut     Worms: 

See  Tomato. 

Army  Worm: 
See  Grass. 

Corn  Ear 
Worm :  Eats  the 
immature  kernels 
at  tip  of  ear.  Dust 
with  sulphur  and 
powdered  lead 
arsenate,  equal 
parts. 


Corn  Ear  Worm 


300 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


CRANBERRY 

Fireworm  or  Black-headed  Cranberry 
Worm:  Small,  pale  green,  black-headed 
caterpillars  web  the  leaves  and  new  shoots 
together  and  feed  inside  the  nest.  Spray 
with  lead  arsenate  to  kill  the  caterpillars. 
Flood  the  bog  for  three  days  to  kill  the  pupae . 

Yellow-headed  Cranberry  Worm : 
Small,  green,  yellovz-headed  caterpillars 
injure  plants  in  same  manner  as  the  pre- 
ceding. Spray  with  lead  arsenate.  Keep 
bogs  flooded  until  about  May  20. 

Cranberry  Fruit-worm:  Pale  green 
larvae  infest  the  berries.  Flood  the  bog  for 
about  two  weeks  as  soon  as  the  fruit  has 
been  harvested.  Destroy  all  infested  ber- 
ries. 

CUCUMBER 

Striped  Cucum- 
ber Beetle:  Eats  the 
leaves  of  young 
plants.  Larvae  tunnel 
in  main  root  or  stem 
just  under  ground, 
sometimes  killing  the 
plant.  Dust  plants 
heavily  with  land 
plaster  or  dry  lead 
arsenate.  Cover 
plants  with  screens. 


Striped  Cucumber        Melon     Aphid : 

Beetle  See  Melon. 

CURRANT 

Currant  Worm : 

Eats  leaves  in  May. 
Spray  with  lead 
arsenate  or  fresh 
hellebore.  Dampen 
leaves,  then  sprinkle 
with  air  slaked  lime. 

Currant  Stem 
Girdler:  Adults 
girdle  new  tips  after 
laying  eggs  in  them. 
Clip  off  and  burn 
these  tips  at  any 
time  of  the  year. 

Currant  Borers:  Larvae  of  two  species, 
— one  a  moth  and  the  other  a  beetle — bur- 
row in  the  pith  of  the  stems,  causing  the 
leaves  to  droop  and  finally  killing  the  canes. 
Destroy  infested  canes  in  May. 

Four-lined  Leaf -bug:  An  active  bug, 
striped  lengthwise  with  black  and  yellow, 
sucking  sap  from  the  terminal  leaves.  Spray 
with  nicotine  solution. 

Scurfy  Scale:  A  light  gray,  pear- 
shaped  scale  on  bark  sucking  the  sap. 
Spray  second  week  in  June  with  kerosene 
emulsion  or  nicotine  solution. 

San  Jose  Scale:     See  Peach. 

Currant  Aphid :  Yellowish  green  aphids 
sucking  sap  from  the  under  side  of  the 
leaves  causing  them  to  curl.  Underspray 
with  nicotine  solution  or  kerosene  emulsion. 


Currant  Worm 


CYCLAMEN 
Leaf -Mite:  Transparent  microscopic 
mites  cause  leaves  to  curl;  plants  do  not 
blossom.  Syringe  under  leaf  surface 
strongly  with  water.  Spray  with,  or  dip 
the  plants  in,  nicotine  solution  (i  part  to 
400). 


DAHLIA 


Tarnished    Plant     Bug: 

Sucks  the  sap  from  the  stems 
and  developing  buds,  causing 
them  to  drop  off.  Spray  with 
nicotine  solution. 


Stalk  Borer :  Larva  bur- 
rows up  and  down  inside  the 
main  stem,  the  upper  portion 
usually  wilting  and  dying. 
Slit  the  stem  lengthwise  with 
care  and  kill  the  borer. 


Stalk  Borer 

DOGWOOD 

Sawflies:  The  larvae  of  several  kinds 
feed  upon  the  different  kinds  of  dogwoods. 
Spray  with  hellebore  or  lead  arsenate. 

EGG-PLANT 

Flea-Beetle:     See  Potato. 
Colorado  Potato  Beetle:     See  Potato. 
ELM 

Spiny  Elm  Caterpillar:  Black  spiny 
caterpillars  in  clusters  strip  certain  branches 
of  elm,  willow  and  poplar.  Remove  cluster 
and  destroy  while  caterpillars  are  small,  or 
spray  with  lead  arsenate. 

Elm  Leaf 
Beetle:  In  May 
the  adults  eat 
holes  through  the 
leaves,  and  in 
June  and  July  the 
grubs  eat  the 
green  tissue  from 
the  under  j^urf ace. 
Spray  under  sur- 
face of  leaves  with 
lead  arsenate 
about  June  ist  to 
kill  the  newly 
hatched  grubs. 


Canker 
„     ,  Worms:     See 

Elm  Leaf  Beetle  Apple. 

White-marked   Tussock   Moth:     See 

Horse  Chestnut. 


INSECT  PESTS 


301 


Leopard  Moth:  Larvae  make  deep  tun- 
nels under  the  bark,  often  girdling  the 
branches,  which  later  break  off.  Small 
trees  may  be  examined,  and  the  borers 
killed  by  injecting  carbon  disulphide  and 
closing  the  openings,  or  by  inserting  a  wire. 

Elm  Scale:  Oval,  brown,  soft  scales, 
with  white  marginal  fringe,  occur  in  the 
crevices  of  the  bark  of  the  trunk  and  larger 
branches.     Spray  with  kerosene  emulsion. 

White  Elm  Scale:  A  whitish  pear- 
shaped  scale  on  twigs.  Spray  about  June 
10,  with  kerosene  emulsion. 

Elm  Woolly  Aphids:  Several  species 
curl  the  leaves,  or  form  in  cottony  masses  on 
the  bark.     Spray  with  kerosene  emulsion. 


EUONYMUS 


Euony  m  u  s 
Scale:  Various 
species  of  Euony- 
mus  are  injured 
by  this  scale, 
which  has  narrow 
white  shells  in 
the  male,  and 
pear-shaped  gray 
or  brown  shells 
in  the  female.  Cut 
and  burn  the 
worst  infested 
twigs.  Spray  in 
June  with  kero- 
sene emulsion  to 
kill  the  young. 


Euony  mus  Scale 

FERN 

Woolly  Bears:  Several  light  brown 
hairy  caterpillars  devour  the  fronds  in  late 
Summer.     Spray  with  lead  arsenate. 

Hemispherical  Scale:  Brown,  oval, 
convex  scales  on  fronds  of  plants  under 
glass.  Apply  soap  and  water  or  nicotine 
solution  as  a  dip  or  spray. 

GERANIUM 

Greenhouse  leaf-tyer:  Small,  green 
wriggling  caterpillars  feed  upon  the  leaves 
of  plants  under  glass.  Spray  with  lead 
arsenate. 

White  Fly:     See  Tomato. 


GOOSEBERRY 
Currant  Worm :     Larvae  devour  foliage- 
Apply  hellebore  or  lead  arsenate  early  in 
May 


Rose  Chafer 


Yellow  Currant  Fruit  Fly:  Small 
maggots  infest  the  berries,  which  color  pre- 
maturely and  drop.     Destroy  infested  fruit. 

Gooseberry  Fruit  Worm:  Greenish 
larvae  feed  inside  the  berries.  Destroy 
infested  fruit. 


GRAPE 

Grape  Plume  Moth:  Green  spiny 
caterpillars  web  together  the  leaves  of  new 
shoots.     Crush  by  pinching  the  nests. 

Grape  Vine  Flea  Beetle:  Adults  and 
larvae  devour  the  leaves.  Spray  with  lead 
arsenate. 

Rose 
Chafer: 
Long- 
legged, 
brown 
beetles  ap- 
pear about 
the  middle 
of  June  and 
feed  upon 
the  leaves, 
flowers  and 
newly  set 
fruit,  often 
doing  great 
d  a  m  a  ge. 
Spray  heav- 
ily with  lead 
arsenate  just  before  blossoms  open  and,  if 
necessary,  again  after  fruit  has  set. 

Grape  Root  Worm :  Adults  eat  chain- 
like holes  in  leaves  in  July,  and  grubs  eat 
roots,  often  causing  great  injury.  Spray 
foliage  with  lead  arsenate. 

Grape  Berry 
Moth:  Larvae 
feed  inside  the 
berry.  Spray  with 
lead  arsenate  after 
fruit  sets,  and  re- 
peat twice  at  in- 
tervals of  ten 
days.  Place 
paper  bags  over 
the  clusters  soon 
after  the  fruit  sets. 

Sphinx  and 
other  Caterpil- 
lars:  Several 
kinds  of  horn 
worms,  as  well  as 
other  caterpillars, 
feed    on     the 

leaves.  Spray  with  lead  arsenate  or  practice 

hand-picking. 

Grape  Phylloxera:  Sucks  sap  from 
leaves  and  roots,  forming  galls,  causing 
serious  injury  to  European  varieties.  Graft 
on  stocks  of  native  species. 

Grape  Leaf -Hopper :  Small  yellow  and 
red-marked  leaf-hoppers  sucking  sap  from 
under  side  of  the  leaves.  Spray  with  nico- 
tine solution. 


Crape 
Berry 
Moth 


302 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


White  Grub 


GRASS 

White  Grubs:  These 
are  the  larvae  of  June 
beetles  and  when  nearly 
mature  and  abundant  in 
the  soil  cause  much  dam- 
age, especially  in  dry 
seasons,  by  eating  off  the 
roots  of  grass,  corn,  pota- 
toes,  strawberries,  etc. 
Plow  in  Fall  to  expose  in- 
sects. Harrow  very  thor- 
oughly before  planting. 


Army- worm:  Occasional- 
ly, brown,  striped  caterpillars 
are  so  abundant  as  to  strip 
the  leaves  and  heads  from 
grass  and  grain  during  July; 
they  move  like  armies  from 
one  field  to  another,  some- 
times doing  great  damage. 
Use  poisoned  bran  mash. 
Plow  deep  furrows  across  the 
line  of  march,  with  steep  side 
barring  their  progress. 
Sprinkle  worms  with  kerosene. 
Spray  strips  of  grass  or  grain 
with  lead  arsenate  to  protect 
the  fields  beyond. 

Fall    Army-worm: 

Attacks  lawns  and  millet  in 
September,  like  preceding,  but 
does  not  migrate  in  such  large 
numbers.  Same  remedies 
Army  Worm  apply-     Plow  in  late  Fall. 

HICKORY 

Walnu  t  Ca  ter pi  1  lar :    See  Wal  nut . 

Fall  Web- worm :     See  Pear. 

Hickory  Borer:  Larvae  tunnel  in  solid 
wood  of  trunk.  The  burrows  may  be 
found  by  the  sawdust  ejected.  Inject  car- 
bon disulphide  into  the  burrow  and  close 
the  entrance. 

Hickory  Tussock  Moth:  White  and 
black  hairy  caterpillars  feed  upon  the  leaves 
in  late  Summer.     Spray  with  lead  arsenate. 

Hickory  Bark  Beetle:  Small  black 
beetles  breed  under  the  bark,  and  the 
galleries  soon  girdle  the  tree.  The  adults 
emerge  through  small  round  "shot-holes" 
in  the  bark.  Beetles  also  feed  at  base  of 
leaves,  causing  them  to  break  off  and  fall  in 
Midsummer.  Badly  infested  trees  should 
be  removed  before  May,  and  either  burned 
or  else  the  bark  removed.  Spray  healthy 
trees  about  June  ist  with  strong  lead 
arsenate  with  nicotine  solution  added. 

Nut  Weevils:  Larvae  infest  the  fruit  or 
nuts.    See  Chestnut. 

Hickory  Gall  Aphid :  Curious  galls  on 
the  leaf  stems  often  cause  the  leaves  to  fall 
in  Midsummer.  Galls  contain  large  num- 
bers of  aphids.  Spray  with  nicotine  solu- 
tion just  as  new  growth  starts  in  Spring. 


HOP 
Hop  Aphid:     Green  aphids  sucking  sap 
from  the  under  leaf-surface.     Spray  with 
kerosene  emulsion. 


HORSE   CHESTNUT 


White- 
marked  Tussock 
Moth:  Black  and 
yellow.red-headed 
hairy  caterpillars, 
each  bearing  four 
upright  tufts  of 
white  hairs,  de- 
vour the  leaves. 
Spray  with  lead 
arsenate. 


White-marked  Tussock 
Moth 

IRIS 
Iris  Root  Borer :     A  larva  tunnels  in  the 
root  stocks,  injuring  many  plants.   Destroy 
infested  root  stocks.     Burn  over  Iris  beds 
in  Winter  to  destroy  the  eggs. 


JUNIPER 
Juniper     Web- worm:    Small     brown 
caterpillars   feed   upon   the   leaves  which 
they    web     together.     Spray    with     lead 
arsenate. 

LARCH 

Larch  Sawfly:  Larvae  defoliate  trees  in 
Midsummer.    Spray  with  lead  arsenate. 

Woolly  Aphid :  White  cottony  tufts  on 
bark  and  at  the  leaf  whorls.  Spray  with 
kerosene  emulsion. 

LETTUCE 
Aphid  or  Green  Fly:    Sucks  sap  from 
the  leaves.     Spray  with  soap  and  water  or 
fumigate  beds  with  tobacco. 

LILAC 
Lilac  Borer:     A  white  larva  tunnels  in 
the  twigs.     Cut  and  burn  infested  twigs. 
Oyster-shell  Scale:     See  Apple. 
San  Jose  Scale:     See  Peach. 


LILY 

Stalk  Borer:    See  Dahlia. 

Aphid:  Yellow  aphids  with  red  mark- 
ings suck  the  sap  from  under  side  of  leaves. 
Spray  with  nicotine  solution. 


INSECT  PESTS 


303 


LINDEN 
Canker  Worm :    See  Apple. 
White-marked    Tussock    Moth:     See 

Apple  and  Horse  Chestnut. 

Linden  Borer:  White  larvae  tunnel 
in  wood  at  base  of  tree.  Dig  out  borer  or 
inject  carbon  disulphide. 


LOCUST 
Locust  Borer:     Larvae  tunnel  in  solid 
wood  of  trunk.     Inject  carbon  disulphide 
into  the  burrows  and  close  the  entrance. 


MAPLE 

White -marked 
Tussock     Moth:     See 

Horse  Chestnut. 

Other  Tussock 
Moths:     See  Apple. 

Canker- worms: 

See  Apple. 

Maple  Borer :  Larvae 
make  spiral  tunnels 
just  under  the  bark  of 
trunk  or  larger  branch- 
es. Examine  the  trees 
in  September;  the  bur- 
rows may  be  located  by 
the  sawdust  thrown  out. 
Inject  carbon  disulphide 
and  close  the  entrance. 


Woolly  Maple 
Leaf    Scale: 

White  cottony 
masses  of  wax  con- 
t  a  i  n  i  n  g  females 
and  eggs  occur  on 
the  under  side  of 
the  leaves  of  sugar 
maples  in  Mid- 
summer; the  in- 
sects suck  the  sap 
and  cause  the 
leaves  to  fall  pre- 
maturely. Males 
and  larvae  are 
found  in  the  crev- 
ices of  the  bark 
where  the  latter  pass  the  Winter  in  white 
cases.  Spray  dormant  trees  with  nicotine 
solution  and  soap.  Burn  infested  leaves 
as  they  drop. 

Cottony  Maple  Scale:  On  red  and 
silver  maples,  large,  oval,  brown  scales 
pass  the  Winter  on  the  bark  of  the  branches 
and  in  Summer  develop  conspicuous  cotton- 
like tufts  of  white  wax  nearly  half  an  inch 
in  length.     Spray  with  miscible  oils. 

Terrapin  Scale:  Small,  reddish  brown 
oval  scales  occur  on  small  twigs  of  red  and 
silver  maples,  sometimes  killing  them. 
Spray  with  kerosene  emulsion. 


Woolly  Maple  Scale 


Oyster-shell  Scale:     See  Apple. 

Maple  Aphids:  Green  aphids  are  com- 
mon on  under  surface  of  leaves  of  Norway 
and  Sycamore  Maples  in  June.  Spray  with 
nicotine  solution  or  kerosene  emulsion. 

MARGUERITE 
Marguerite  Fly  or  Leaf  Miner:       A 

maggot  tunnels  between  upper  and  lower 
surface  layers  of  the  leaves.  Spray  with 
nicotine  solution  every  ten  or  twelve  days. 

MELON 

Striped  Cucumber  Beetle:  See  Cu- 
cumber. 

Melon  Aphid:  Sucks  the  sap  from  the 
under  side  of  the  leaves,  curling  them  and 
causing  much  damage  if  abundant.  Under- 
spray  the  leaves  with  nicotine  solution. 

MILLET 
Fall  Army  Worm :     See  Grass. 

NASTURTIUM 
Aphid:     Brown  aphids  cluster  on  stems 
and  leaves,  sucking  the  sap.     Spray  with 
nicotine  solution. 

OAK 
Canker  Worm :     See  Apple. 
Brown-tail  Moth:     See  Pear. 
Orange     Striped     Oak-worm:     Black 
and  orange  striped  caterpillars  feed  upon 
the  leaves  late  in  the  season.     Spray  with 
lead  arsenate. 

OATS 
Army  Worm:     See  Grass. 

ONION 
Maggot:     Infests  the  bulb  of  the  young 
and  growing  plant.     Practice  crop  rotation. 


Thr  i  p  s     or 
White    Blast: 

Very  small  insects 
feed  upon  the  sur- 
face of  the  leaves, 
causing  a  whitish 
appearance.  Burn 
all  tops  and  re- 
fuse; burn  over 
the  grass  land 
around  the  field  to 
kill  over-wintering 
insects.  Spray 
with  nicotine  sol- 
ution. 


Thripsor  While  Blast 


304 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


FJEONY 
Rose   Chafer:     Feeds   on   blossoms   of 
white  varieties.     See  Grape. 


PALM 

Scales:  Various  white  and  brown  scales 
infest  the  species  of  palms  found  in  green- 
houses. Apply  nicotine  solution  or  soap 
and  water  as  a  spray  or  as  a  dip. 

PEA 
Pea  Weevil:  The  adult  lays  eggs  in 
the  pods  in  the  field,  and  the  larvae  develop 
in  the  dried  seeds  and  the  emerging  beetles 
leave  round  holes.  Fumigate  with  carbon 
disulphide  or  cover  with  air-slaked  lime. 
See  Bean. 

Green  Pea  Aphid :  Sucks  the  sap  from 
stems  and  leaves  in  June,  often  causing 
great  injury,  when  abundant.  Early  varie- 
ties may  mature  a  crop  before  being  greatly 
injured.  Spray  with  nicotine  solution  and 
soap. 

PEACH 

Peach  Sawfly :  Larvae 
feed  upon  leaves  in  Jime 
and  July.  Spray  with 
lead  arsenate. 

Peach  Borer:  Larvae 
tunnel  under  bark  at 
base  of  trunk.  Dig 
them  out  in  May  and 
again  in  September. 
Paint  trunks  with  lead 
arsenate  and  lime-sul- 
phur from  just  below 
the  surface  to  a  foot 
from  the  ground. 

Fruit  Bark  Beetle 
or  Shot  Hole  Borer: 
Small  black  beetles  tun- 
nel just  under  the  bark, 
girdling  the  tree,  and 
emerging  through  small  "shot  holes." 
Burn  infested  trees  and  keep  others  thrifty. 


Plum  Curculio: 

See  Plum. 

San  Jose  Scale : 

Small  circular  shells 
containing  insects 
which  suck  the  sap 
from  twigs,  leaves 
and  fruit.  On  fruit 
a  red  spot  surrounds 
each  insect.  Spray 
dormant  trees  with 
lime-sulphur. 

Black      and 
Green  A  p  h  1  d  s  : 

Suck  sap  from 
leaves  and  shoots. 
Spray  with  nico- 
tine solution. 


Peach   Sawfly 


PEAR 
Pear  or  Cherry  Slug:     See  Cherry. 

Brown-tail 
Motn :  Occurs 
only  in  Eastern 
New  England. 
Brown,  hairy 
caterpillars  hiber- 
nate in  nests  on 
twigs  and  feed  on 
leaves  in  May  and 
June.  Cut  and 
burn  winter  nests. 
Spray  with  lead 
arsenate  as  soon 
as  blossoms  fall, 
and  again  in 
August. 


Cod 
Moth: 

Apple. 


i  ng 

See 


San  Jose  Scale 


^   .,  w    ,  Fall     We  b- 

Brown-Tail  Moth  worm:  Brown, 
hairy  cater- 
pillars  feed  in  webs  or  nests  at  ends  of 
branches  the  latter  part  of  Summer.  Clip 
off  and  burn  nests  when  small.  Spray 
with  lead  arsenate. 

Leaf  Blister  Mite:  Forms  galls  or 
blisters  on  unfolding  leaves,  causing  many 
leaves  to  fall  in  July.  Blisters  turn  red, 
and  later  brown.  Spray  dormant  trees  in 
late  Fall  or  early  Spring  with  lime-sulphur. 

Pear  Psylla:  Jumping  plant  lice  suck 
sap  from  leaves  and  shoots,  causing  many 
leaves  to  fall  in  July.  Spray  with  lime- 
sulphur  in  Spring  just  before  buds  open. 
Spray  infested  trees  with  nicotine  solution 
in  July  to  clean  up  the  fruit. 

San  Jose  Scale:     See  Peach. 

Pear  Thrips:  A  very  small  insect  that 
feeds  upon  the  fruit  buds,  destroying  them. 
Spray  with  nicotine  solution  just  as  buds 
open  and  again  after  blossoms  fall. 

False  Tarnished  Plant  Bug:  Punc- 
tures the  small  and  developing  fruit,  caus- 
ing it  to  become  irregular  and  knotty. 
Spray  with  nicotine  solution  and  soap. 


PHLOX 

Red  Spider:  Injures  leaves,  causing 
them  to  turn  yellow.  Spray  with  kerosene 
emulsion  or  with  soap  and  nicotine  solution. 

PINE 

Sawflies:  The  larvae  of  several  native 
and  imported  species  feed  upon  the  leaves. 
Spray  with  lead  arsenate. 

White  Pine  Weevil:  Larvae  tunnel 
under  the  bark  of  the  leader,  causing  it  to 
wilt  and  die  in  Midsummer.  Ornamental 
trees  may  be  protected  by  spraying  leaders 
about  May  ist  with  lead  arsenate  or  lime- 
sulphur.  Jarring  the  beetles  into  a  net 
once    a    week    during    May    will    greatly 


INSECT  PESTS 


305 


Plum  curculio 


reduce  the  damage.  Infested  leaders 
should  be  cut  and  destroyed  before  the 
adults  emerge. 

Pine  Bark  Aphid:  Aphids  with 
cottony  wax  secretion  form  white  patches 
on  bark,  sucking  the  sap.  Spray  with 
kerosene  emulsion. 

Pine  Leaf  Scale:  White,  pear-shaped 
shells  on  leaves  contain  insects  sucking  the 
sap.  Occasionally  kill  small  trees.  Spray 
with  nicotine  solution  or  kerosene  emulsion 
about  the  second  week  in  June. 

PLUM 

Plum  cur- 
culio: Grub  in- 
fests the  growing 
fruit,  causing  it 
to  fall.  Jar  the 
trees  once  a  week, 
for  six  weeks 
after  trees  bloom ; 
catch  the  beetles 
on  sheets  and  de- 
stroy them.  Also 
spray  during  the 
same  period  with 
lead  arsenate. 

Fruit  Bark 
Beetle  or  Shot- 
hole  Borer:   See 

Peach. 

Plum  aphids:  Suck  sap  from  under 
side  of  leaves.  Spray  with  nicotine  solu- 
tion and  soap. 

San  Jose  Scale :     See  Peach. 


POPLAR 

Poplar  Tent-maker:  Larvae  feed  on 
leaves  and  fold  them  together  near  ends 
of  branches,  forming  nests.  Spray  with 
lead  arsenate. 

Spiny  Elm  Caterpillar:     See  Elm. 

Tussock  Moths:  See  Apple,  Hickory 
and  Horse  Chestnut. 

Poplar  Borer:  Larvae  make  large  gal- 
leries in  wood  of  trunk.  Dig  out  or  inject 
carbon  disulphide  into  the  burrow  and 
close  the  opening. 

Poplar  and  Willow  Curculio:  Larvae 
tunnel  in  smaller ,  trunk  and  branches. 
Destroy  badly  infested  trees.  Cut  out 
borers:    inject  carbon  disulphide. 

Oyster-shell  Scale:     See  Apple. 


POPPY 
Aphids:     Black    aphids    suck    the    sap 
from  stems  and  leaves.     Spray  with  nico- 
tine solution. 

POTATO 

NOTE — Potatoes  require  vigilant  watch- 
ing. Watch  your  crop  for  three  par- 
ticular enemies:  The  flea  beetles  and 
adult  Colorado  beetles  may  appear  soon 


after  the  leaves  show  above  ground  and 
should  be  given  attention.  Larvae  of  the 
Colorado  beetle  do  not  appear  until  about 
the  first  of  June.  About  July  ist  watch 
for  aphids  and  spray  to  eradicate  the  in- 
cipient colonies  before  the  aphids  spread 
over  the  whole  field.  Unless  promptly 
checked  the  aphids  will  ruin  your  entire 
crop  in  a  few  days. 

Flea  Beetle: 
Small.  black, 
jumping  beetles 
eat  holes  through 
the  leaves.  Spray 
both  upper  and 
under  surfaces 
heavily  with  lead 
arsenate. 

Colorado  Po- 
tato       Beetle: 

Both  adult  and 
larvae  devour  the 
leaves.  Spray  or 
dust  with  lead  ar- 
senate. 

Three-Lined 
Potato      Beetle: 

Larvae  feed  upon 
the  leaves  and 
carry  their  black 
excrement  on 
their  backs. 
Spray  with  lead 
Colorado  Potato  Beetle     arsenate. 


Potato  Aphid 

Potato  Aphid:  Green  aphids  appear- 
ing in  large  numbers  suck  the  sap  from  the 
shoots  and  under  side  of  the  leaves,  causing 
much  damage.  Spray  with  soap  and 
nicotine  solution. 


PRIVET 

Privet  or  Lilac  Borer:  Larvae  tunnel 
in  the  stems.  Remove  and  destroy  in- 
fested stems. 


306 


GARDEN   GUIDE 


QUINCE 

Round-headed  Borer:     See  Apple. 

Quince  CurcuHo:  Adults  feed  upon, 
and  the  grubs  feed  inside,  the  growing 
fruit,  causing  it  to  be  knotty.  Jar  the 
trees  as  for  plum  curculio.  Spray  with 
lead  arsenate. 

Aphid :     See  Apple. 

RADISH 
Maggot:  See  Cabbage. 
Aphid :     See  Turnip. 

RASPBERRY 

Raspberry  Sawfly:  Larvae  feed  upon 
the  leaves.  Spray  with  lead  arsenate  or 
hellebore.  . 

Cane  Borer:  Larvae  tunnel  inside  the 
canes.     Cut  and  burn  infested  canes. 

RHODODENDRON 

Rhododendron  Lace  Bug:     Sucks  the 

sap  from  the  under  surface  of  the  leaves, 

leaving  brown  spots  of  excrement.    Spray 

with  nicotine  solution  or  kerosene  emulsion. 

ROSE 

Rose  Slug  or  Sawfly:  Eats  away  the 
green  tissues  of  the  leaves,  only  the  net- 
work remaining.  Spray  with  lead  arsenate , 
hellebore,  or  nicotine  solution. 

Rose  Chafer:    See  Grape. 

Rose  Leaf-Hopper:  Whitish,  jumping 
and  flying  insects  which  suck  the  sap  from 
the  under  side  of  the  leaves.  Spray  with 
nicotine  solution. 

Rose  Aphid  or  Green  Fly:  Sucks  the 
sap  from  the  tender  leaves  and  shoots. 
Dip  the  shoots  in,  or  spray  with  nicotine 
solution. 

Rose  Scale:  Whitish,  circular  shells 
on  the  stems  contain  insects  which  suck 
the  sap.  Cut  and  burn  the  worst  infested 
stems.     Spray  with  nicotine  solution. 

RYE 
Army  Worm :     See  Grass. 
Wheat  Midge:     See  Wheat. 

SNAPDRAGON 
Leaf -Mite:     Causes  leaves  to  curl  and 
plants    do    not    blossom.        Spray    with 
nicotine  solution. 

SNOWBALL 
Aphids:     Suck    sap    from    the    leaves, 
causing  them  to  curl.     Dip  in,  or  spray 
with  nicotine  solution. 

SPIRAEA 
Aphids:     Suck  the  sap  from  the  new 
shoots.     Use  nicotine  solution  as  a  spray 
or  dip. 

SPRUCE 
Spruce    Bud    Moth:     Larvae  feed   on 
leaves  of  terminal  shoots  of  the  branches, 
often  causing  much  damage.     Spray  with 
lead  arsenate. 


Spruce  Gall  Aphid:  Forms  galls  at 
the  base  of  the  new  growth  on  Norway 
and  other  spruces.  Spray  in  late  Fall  or 
early  Spring  with  nicotine  solution  and 
soap,  or  with  kerosene  emulsion. 


SQUASH-PUMPKIN 


Sq  uash- vine 
Borer:  Larvae  tunnel 
in  the  stem  near  its 
base,  causing  decay. 
Cut  slits  lengthwise 
m  the  stem  and  kill 
the  borers.  Cover 
the  joints  of  the  vine 
with  earth  and  new 
roots  will  be  formed 
to  support  the  plant. 
Grow  a  few  early 
plants  for  traps,  and 
when  well  infested, 
destroy  them.  Plant 
the  main  crop  rather 
late. 


Squash  Lady- 
Bee  tie:  Adults 
and  larvae  feed 
upon  the  leaves. 
Spray  with  lead 
arsenate. 


Sq  uash-vine  Borer 


Squash  Lady-Beetle 


Squash  Bug  or  Stink  Bug 


Striped      Cu- 
cumber Beetle: 

See  Cucumber. 


Squash  Bug 
or  Stink  Bug: 

A  brown  bug, 
three-fourths  of 
an  inch  in 
length,  which 
sucks  the  sap 
from  the  under 
side  of  the 
leaves,  causing 
them  to  wilt  and 
die.  Underspray 
with  kerosene 
emulsion  to  kill 
the  young.  The 
old  bugs  and  the 
egg  clusters  may 
be  gathered  by 
hand. 


INSECT  PESTS 


307 


STRAWBERRY 

Strawberry  Sawfly:  Larvae  devour  the 
leaves.  Spray  with  lead  arsenate  or  helle- 
bore. 

Strawberry  Flea-Beetle:  Eats  round 
holes  through  the  leaves.  Spray  with  lead 
arsenate. 

Strawberry  Leaf -Roller:  Larvae  roll 
leaf  and  feed  inside.  Spray  with  lead 
arsenate.  In  bad  infestations  burn  over 
fields  as  soon  as  crop  is  harvested. 

Strawberry  Weevil:  The  females  of 
this  small  snout  beetle  cut  off  the  blossom 
buds  of  staminate  varieties  when  ovi- 
positing. Plant  pistillate  varieties  in  part. 
Spray  with  lead  arsenate. 

Strawberry  Crown  Borer:  Grub  feeds 
in  the  crown  of  the  plant.  Practice  crop 
rotation.     Burn  over  infested  field  in  Fall. 

Strawberry  White-fly:  Sucks  sap  from 
the  under  side  of  the  leaves.  Underspray 
with  soap  and  nicotine  solution. 

Strawberry  Root  Aphid:  Sucks  sap 
from  leaves  and  roots,  killing  plants. 
Spray  with  nicotine  solution.  Set  clean 
plants  on  land  not  infested. 

SWEET   POTATO 

Tortoise  Shell 
Beetles:  Feed 
upon  leaves. 
Spray  with  lead 
arsenate. 


TOBACCO 
Flea      Beetle : 

Eats  holes 
through  the 
leaves.  Spray 
upper  and  under 
leaf -surfaces 
heavily  with  lead 
arsenate. 

Cut  Worms: 
See  Tomato. 

Tobacco  or 
Tomato  Horn  • 
Worms:  Large 
green  caterpillars 
with  horn  on  the 
tail  devour  the 
leaves.  Practice 
hand  picking. 
Spray  with  lead 
arsenate. 


Horn  Worm 

Affects  both  Tomato 

and  Tobacco 


TOMATO 

Cutworms:    Eat 

off  the  stems  of  the 
plants  near  the 
ground;  certain 
species  climb  the 
plants  and  eat  the 
leaves.  Scatter  poi  • 
soned  bran  mash 
around  the  field  just 
at  night  so  that  the 
'vc^cut  worms  may  have 
The  Cut  Worm  a  chance  to  get  it 
A  general  pest       before  it  dries. 


Flea  Beetle:     See  Potato  or  Tobacco. 
Stalk  Borer:     See  Dahlia. 

Tomato    or    Tobacco    Horn-worms: 

See  Tobacco. 

Greenhouse  White-Fly:  Immature 
insects  suck  the  sap  from  the  under  sides 
of  the  leaves.  Underspray  with  soap  and 
water.  Fumigate  greenhouses  and  frames 
with  hydrocyanic  acid  gas. 


TULIP  TREE 


Tulip  Tree  Scale 

Tulip  Tree  Scale:  Large,  brown, 
hemispherical  scales  on  bark  of  lower 
branches,  sucking  the  sap.  Spray  with 
lime-sulphur  in  Fall  or  Winter. 


TURNIP 
Cut  Worms:     See  Tomato. 
Cabbage  Root  Maggot:     See  Cabbage. 

Turnip  Aphid :  Green  aphids  on  under 
side  of  leaves  sucking  the  sap.  Under- 
spray with  soap  and  water  or  nicotine 
solution. 

VIOLET 
Violet  Sawfly:     Larvae   devour  leaves. 
Spray  with  lead  arsenate  or  hellebore. 

E^l- worms:  Infest  the  roots,  forming 
galls.  Plant  in  new  soil  or  sterilize  old  soil 
by  steam.  Add  plenty  of  air-slaked  lime 
to  the  soil. 

WALNUT 
Walnut  Caterpillar :  Clusters  of  black 
caterpillars  covered  with  whitish  hairs 
strip  the  branches  and  finally  the  tree  in 
August.  Spray  with  lead  arsenate.  Clip 
off  twigs  when  caterpillars  are  small,  and 
kill  by  crushing. 

Walnut  Weevil  or  Curculio:  ^Adults 
feed  at  base  of  leaf  stems;  larvae  tunnel  in 
new  shoots  and  infest  the  fruit  of  Persian 
and  Japanese  Walnuts.  Spray  with  lead- 
arsenate. 


308 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


WHEAT 

Army  Worm:     See  Grass. 

Hessian  Fly:  Maggots  burrow  in 
sheath  of  a  leaf  at  base  of  stem,  causing 
the  stalks  to  turn  yellow  and  die.  Plant 
rather  late,  say  about  September  ist. 

Wheat  Midge:  The  fly  lays  eggs  on 
the  chaff  and  the  maggots  feed  upon  the 
developing  kernels,  so  that  the  heads 
ripen  early  and  produce  no  grain.  Burn 
stubble  before  plowing.  Plow  infested 
fields  deeply  in  the  Fall. 

Green  Bug  or  Aphid:     Green  aphids 


suck  the  sap  from  leaves.  Destroy  in  early 
Fall  all  volunteer  wheat  and  oats.  Prac- 
tice crop  rotation. 

WILLOW 

Spiny  Elm  Caterpillar:     See  Elm. 

Poplar  Tent  Maker:     See  Poplar. 

Poplar    and    Willow    Curculio: 
Poplar. 

Oyster-shell  Scale:     See  Apple. 

Aphids:     Large    reddish    aphids 
gregate  on  twigs  in  i'all,  and  suck  the  sap. 
Spray  with  kerosene  emulsion  or  nicotine 
solution. 


See 


con- 


We  wish  to  add  just  a  few  words  in  regard  to  the  enemies  treated  in 
this  and  the  proceeding  chapter.  The  main  method  for  controlling  them  is 
to  prevent  them  by  the  strictest  sanitation.    All  diseased  or  insect-infested 

parts  must  be  burned 
such  stock  must  nev- 
er be  planted  in  your 
clean  garden  or  al- 
lowed to  remain  there 
if  it  has  already 
started.  Land  which 
is  known  to  be  in- 
fested with  various 
pests  must  be 
avoided. 

Keep  down  weeds 
which  harbor  diseases 
and  insects.  A 
method  which  must 
not  be  scorned  is  hand  picking  when  possible.  Anything  which  contributes 
toward  the  best  culture  of  the  plant  will  be  found  a  control  for  the  enemies 
as  well.  If  you  have  questions  as  to  just  how  to  control  any  of  the  various 
maladies,  consult  your  seedsman,  florist  or  nurseryman,  but  do  not  lose 
time — insects  and  diseases  work  quickly. 

The  gardener  should  become 
famihar  with  the  ways  of  the  in- 
sects, for  some  are  valuable  and 
should  be  admired.  Those  who 
have  read  Sir  John  Lubbock, 
Faberor  MaeterUnck  realize  that 
the  insect  world  is  quite  as  ro- 
mantic as  our  own. 

Plants  become  yellow  not  only 
as  a  result  of  insect  injury  or 
disease,  but  also  when  they  get    The    upper    figure    shows    an    ordinary  brass 


A  sucking  insect — note  the 

formidable    beak    used    to 

pierce  plants   and   extract 

juices 


Head^  of    biting    insect — 

note  jaws,  large  compound 

eyes,  and  the  feelers  near 

jaws  and  eyes 


too  much  water  or  too  little  or 
when  the  soil  is  too  poor  or 
too  rich.  Be  sure  of  the  cause 
before  you  try  to  cure  the 
trouble. 


garden  syringe.  Be  sure  to  buy  a  good  article 
to  begin  with ;  it  pays.  The  lower  figure  shows 
a  brass  vaporizing  sprayer.  _  This  is  just  what 
is  needed  for  applying  liquid  insecticides  and 
fungicidep 


For  a  complete  work  on  the  subject  of  this  Chapter  we  recommend 
ECONOMIC  ENTOMOLOGY,  by. Prof.  JohnB.  Smith.  In  this  book  Prof.  Smith,  in 
clear  and  simple  language,  has  succinctly  presented  the  underlying  facts  upon  which  the 
application  of  remedial  or  preventive  measures,  as  regards  the  combating  of  injurious 
insects,  is  based,  and  which  can  be  easily  understood  and  followed.  481  pages.  Price, 
$2.65,  postpaid.    Secure  your  copy  where  you  bought  your  Garden  Guide. 


CHAPTER  XXIII 

Some   Common  Diseases  of  Plants 
and  Their  Control 

By   Edwin   F.  Hopkins,    Associate  Pathologist,    Alabama    Agri.  Exp 
Station,  Auburn,  Ala. 
and 
H.   H.  Whetzel,   Professor   of   Plant    Pathology,     Cornell    University, 

Ithaca,  N.  Y. 

How  Diseases  in  Plants  are  Exhibited— The  Cause  of  Disease- 
Concerning  the  Control  of  Diseases — Materials  Used  to  Control 
Plant  Diseases — The  More  Common  Diseases  of  Garden  Crops 

INCREASING  attention  is  being  given  these  days  to  the  diseases 
of  plants  because  of  the  enormous  losses  which  they  annually 
entail.  In  addition  to  the  fact  that  some  of  these  diseases  take 
a  certain  yearly  toll  from  our  crops  and  thus  reduce  production  per 
acre,  there  is  the  danger  that  under  favorable  conditions  certain  dis- 
eases of  staple  crops  may  become  epidemic  and  totally  wipe  out  a 
product,  vitally  necessary  to  our  welfare.  The  late  bhght  of  Potatoes 
it  is  said,  contributed  chiefly  to  the  suffering  caused  by  the  Irish 
famine  in  1845.  That  year,  being  a  favorable  one  for  the  bhght,  the 
potato  crop  throughout  Europe  was  a  total  failure .  Taking  some  more 
recent,  more  local,  figures,  in  New  York  State  alone,  it  is  conservatively 
estimated  that  Oat  smut  caused  a  loss  of  over  $2,000,000  in  1915, 
while  the  same  state  that  year  suffered  a  loss  of  nearly  20  miUions  of 
dollars  from  the  late  blight  of  Potatoes  WTieat  rust  is  credited  with 
havmg  caused  a  loss  of  $67,000,000;  in  1898,  Peachleaf  curl  damaged  the 
1900  Peach  crop  in  the  United  States  to  the  extent  of  $2,335,000. 
And  while  figures  are  not  available,  losses  from  plant  diseases  in  home 
gardens  are  without  doubt  equally  appalUng  in  the  United  States. 

One  could  give  many  more  figures,  but  these  few  will  serve  to 
illustrate  the  importance  of  understanding  and  controlling  plant  dis- 
eases. We  must  reahze  that  they  are  present,  that  they  cause  an 
enormous  loss  and  that  every  grower  and  gardener  must  learn  three 
things  regarding  the  more  common  of  them.  These  are,  first,  just 
how  to  know  them;  second,  what  causes  them;  and,  third,  the  method 
of  control. 

How  Diseases  in  Plants  are  Exhibited 

The  presence  of  a  disease  is  made  evident  by  certain  signs  or 
symptoms  shown  by  the  diseased  plant .    These  are  injurious  deviations 

309 


310  GARDEN  GUIDE 

from  the  normal,  produced  by  some  agent  which  interferes  with  the 
usual  growth  or  functions  of  the  plant.  For  example,  a  certain 
Cabbage  plant  wilts  while  another  nearby  does  not.  On  pulling  up 
the  wilted  plant  we  find  that  the  roots  are  swollen  to  many  times 
their  normal  size.  The  wilting  and  the  abnormal  size  of  the  roots 
are  symptoms  of  a  disease  known  as  clubroot. 

The  following  are  some  of  the  symptoms  exhibited  by  diseased 
plants:  Rot  is  the  effect  produced  when  a  considerable  portion,  usually 
of  a  fleshy  plant  part,  is  rapidly  killed.  We  may  have  soft  rots,  hard 
rots,  dry  rots  and  wet  rots.  Rots  of  stems  are  called  stem  rots,  rots 
of  roots,  root  rots,  etc.  Blight  is  the  effect  caused  by  a  rapid  kiUing 
of  tissue  and  usually  refers  to  leaves  and  shoots.  Spot  is  a  small  area 
of  dead  tissue.  There  are  leaf  spots,  pod  spots,  fruit  spots,  etc.  Wilt 
results  from  injury  to  the  water  conducting  vessels  or  from  some  injury 
to  the  water  absorbing  organs  of  the  root.  Scab  is  superficial  injury 
resulting  in  corky  growth  and  craclang.  Wart  is  an  irregular  oyt- 
growth  from  a  plant  organ,  leaf,  stem  or  root.  Canker  is  a  definite 
dead  area  in  the  bark  usually  on  stems  or  on  h'mbs  of  trees.  Mildew 
is  a  white  fungous  growth  upon  the  sm-face  of  a  plant;  there  are  powdery 
and  downy  mildews.  Mosaic  is  a  peculiar  Ught  and  dark  green 
mottling  of  leaves  produced  in  certain  diseases.  Knots  are  swellings 
produced  by  an  overgrowth  of  tissue.  Burn  is  a  killing  of  leaves 
especially  at  the  edges  or  tips.  Smut  is  a  black  powdery  mass,  while 
a  rust  usually  consists  of  reddish  to  brown  powdery  pustules.  Leaf 
curl  is  a  distortion  of  leaves  due  to  the  presence  of  a  parasite.  Galls 
are  abnormal  swellings.  Many  other  similar  descriptive  terms  are 
used  to  designate  symptoms,  t)ut  the  above  illustrations  will  suffice  to 
indicate  what  constitutes  symptoms. 

The  Cause  of  Disease 

We  must  distinguish  between  injuries  caused  by  insects  and  those 
caused  by  diseases,  although  the  two  may  have  some  points  in  com- 
mon. Diseases  are  usually  caused  by  (1)  parasitic  slime  moulds,  (2) 
bacteria,  or,  (3)  fungi,  all  of  which  are  low  forms  of  plant  fife.  Rut 
there  are  some  diseases  which  are  not  due  to  the  presence  of  a  parasite. 
There  are  many  lower  organisms  which  are  not  harmful;  in  fact,  many 
are  beneficial;  but  certain  ones  have  so  modified  their  habits  that  they 
are  able  to  live  upon  the  higher  plants  and  use  the  food  prepared  by  the 
latter.  They  are  then  called  parasites  and  by  their  manner  of  Hving 
they  injure  the  plants  upon  which  they  exist  and  produce  in  them  a 
diseased  condition. 

Slime  moulds,  though  very  common,  are  not  well  known  to  most 
people  because  of  their  small  size.    In  their  active  life  phase,  they 


PLANT  DISEASES  311 

resemble  closely  a  slime,  while  at  another  time  they  appear  mould-like; 
hence,  the  name.  The  dreaded  club  root  disease  of  Cabbage  and  aUied 
plants,  is  caused  by  a  sHme  mould  as  is  also  powdery  scab  of 
Potatoes. 

Bacteria  are  perhaps  better  known  because  of  their  connection 
with  disease  in  man.  This  has  been  emphasized  so  much  that  there  is 
a  general  behef  that  most  bacteria  are  harmful,  although  actually  most 
of  them  are  beneficial.  Bacteria  are  either  rod-shaped,  spherical  or 
spiral  like.  Those  which  cause  diseases  in  plants  belong  to  the  rod- 
shaped  groups.  At  the  present  time,  there  are  over  150  plant  diseases 
known  to  be  caused  by  bacteria,  including  fire  bhght,  one  of  the  most 
serious  diseases  of  Pears,  Apples,  and  Quinces. 

Fungi  make  up  a  large  group  of  lower  plants  of  great  diversity 
of  form  and  life  history.  The  well  known  mushrooms  and  puifballs 
belong  to  this  class  as  well  as  countless  microscopic  forms,  like  rusts, 
mildews,  etc.;  some  are  parasites  while  many  are  not.  Probably  the 
largest  number  of  diseases  of  plants  is  caused  by  fungi. 

A  knowledge  of  the  life  history  of  these  organisms  is  especially 
important  if  one  is  to  devise  and  use  methods  of  preventing  the  diseases 
which  they  cause.  We  try  to  determine  the  point  in  the  life  history 
at  which  the  pathogene  (agent  that  causes  disease)  is  most  vulnerable 
and  strike  there. 

Concerning  the  Control  of  Diseases 

All  methods  of  controlling  plant  diseases  are  based  upon  one  of 
four  principles:  exclusion,  eradication,  protection  and  immunization. 
Exclusion  is  a  matter  of  preventing  the  introduction  of  disease  pro- 
ducing fungi,  bacteria  and  the  like  into  a  given  country  or  locaUty. 
This  is  most  commonly  attempted  by  legislation,  exclusion  laws  and 
quarantines.  Eradication  refers  to  the  removal  of  a  pathogene  from 
an  area  when  once  it  has  gained  a  foothold,  and  involves  many  opera- 
tions, such  as  sorting  out  and  destroying  diseased  seed,  plants  and  plant 
parts,  soil  sterilization,  crop  rotation  and  seed  disinfection.  This 
principle  may  be  apphed  in  the  control  of  a  large  number  of  diseases. 
In  practicing  protection  methods  we  work  from  the  standpoint  of  a 
plant  and  place  some  barrier  between  it  and  the  parasites  which  attack 
it.  In  the  operation  of  spraying  which  is  a  protective  measure,  we 
place  a  layer  of  poison  called  a  fungicide  on  the  leaves  of  a  plant  and 
when  the  fungus  comes  in  contact  with  the  poison  it  is  killed.  The 
addition  of  certain  substances  to  the  soil  to  prevent  organisms  from 
attacking  the  roots  of  plants,  as  in  the  liming  of  soil  to  prevent  club 
root  of  Cabbage,  may  be  classed  as  a  protective  measure.  Immuniza- 
tion involves  the  selection  or  breeding  of  varieties  or  strains  which  are 


312  GARDEN  GUIDE 

resistant  to  certain  diseases.  In  some  few  instances  the  application 
of  this  principle  is  practical  and  not  a  few  resistant  varieties  have  been 
developed  in  recent  years,  as,  for  example.  Cabbage  immune  to  yellows 
and  Beans  immune  to  anthracnose. 

Materials  Used  to  Control  Plant  Diseases 

Among  the  fungicides  used  to  protect  plants  from  diseases,  by 
spraying  or  dusting  them  upon  the  foliage  or  fruit,  the  most  commonly 
employed  are  Bordeaux  mixture,  lime-sulfur  solution  and  sulfur  in  a 
finely  ground  form.  For  disinfecting  seeds  and  tubers  to  which  the 
spores  of  pathogenes  become  attached,  the  materials  most  used  are 
formaldehyde  and  corrosive  sublimate.  To  kill  pathogenes  which  have 
gained  lodging  within  the  seed,  hot  water  at  different  temperatures  has 
proven  most  effective. 

Where  insects  are  to  be  controlled  as  well  as  fungi,  certain  insecti- 
cides are  often  combined  with  the  fungicides.  Lead  arsenate  may  be 
added  to  Bordeaux  mixture  or  hme-sulfur  for  chewing  insects,  and 
Black  Leaf  40,  a  tobacco  extract  may  be  similariy  used  against  sucking 
insects  Uke  plant  hce. 

Corrosive  sublimate,  a  white  powder,  may  be  purchased  at  the 
drug  store.  Dissolve  4  ounces  in  a  small  amount  of  hot  water  and 
add  cold  water.  May  also  be  obtained  in  the  form  of  tablets,  one  of 
which  dissolved  in  a  pint  of  water  gives  the  desired  strength,  a  1  to 
1000  solution. 

Formaldehyde  in  the  form  of  a  40  per  cent  solution  called  formalin 
may  be  purchased  at  the  drug  store  and  diluted  to  different  strengths 
for  different  diseases. 

Lime-sulfur  may  conveniently  be  purchased  as  the  commercial 
concentrated  solution  (which  should  test  about  32  Baume)  and  diluted 
as  indicated  below  for  the  various  diseases. 

Self-boiled  lime-sulfur  is  prepared  by  adding  a  small  amount  of 
water  to  8  pounds  of  good  stone  lime  (quick  hme)  in  order  to  start  it 
slaking.  Then  8  pounds  of  sifted  sulfur  is  added  gradually  together 
with  small  amounts  of  water  to  prevent  burning.  When  the  slaking 
is  over,  make  up  to  50  gallons  with  water.  This  is  used  chiefly  on 
peaches,  but  is  being  largely  replaced  by  sulfur  dust  apphed  dry. 

Bordeaux  mixture  is  made  by  adding  a  weak  solution  of  blue 
vitriol  (copper  sulfate)  to  a  weak  solution  of  milk  of  lime.  Five 
pounds  of  blue  vitriol  crystals  are  put  into  a  burlap  bag  and  lowered 
into  25  gallons  of  water  just  below  the  surface  until  all  of  the  blue 
vitriol  is  dissolved.  While  this  is  dissolving  5  pounds  of  good  stone 
lime  are  slaked  with  a  small  amount  of  water  and  then  diluted  to  25 
gallons.    Good  hydra  ted  lime  may  be  used  in  place  of  stone  lime. 


PLANT  DISEASES 


313 


Equal  parts  of  the  blue  vitriol  solution  and  the  dilute  milk  of  lime  are 
then  mixed  together.  This  mixture  is  known  as  5-5-50  Bordeaux. 
Other  mixtures,  as  the  4-4-50  and  the  3-3-50,  are  prepared  in  a  similar 
manner,  using  proportionately  less  copper  sulfate  and  hme. 

Sulfur,  ground  fine  enough  to  pass  through  a  200-mesh  to  the 
square  inch  screen,  may  be  applied  with  any  good  dusting  apparatus 
for  the  control  of  a  number  of  diseases  of  plants. 


The  More  Common  Diseases  of  Garden  Crops 


APPLE 

Bitter  rot  {Glomerella  cingulatn)  caiises 
a  rot  of  the  fruit,  which  at  first  is  brown  in 
color  ;  later  small  pink  masses  appear  on 
its  surface.  Finally  the  whole  fruit  rots  and 
then  shrivels  into  a  mummy,  which  some- 
times clings  to  the  tree.  Cankers  also  form 
on  the  limbs.  They  should  be  removed  in 
the  Winter  and  burned.  Spray  with  Bor- 
deaux mixture  (4-4-50)  once  before  buds 
open  and  afterwards  according  to  the 
weather. 

Black  rot  or  New  York  Apple  tree 
canker  (Physalaspora  Cydoniae).  Fruit  is 
rotted  and  covered  with  black  pimples  and 
shrinks  to  a  mummy;  leaves  are  often 
spotted  and  cankers  develop  upon  the  limbs. 
Remove  cankers  or  cankered  limbs.  Spray 
foliage  with  Bordeaux  (4-4-50)  about  the 
middle  of  July  and  again  two  weeks  later. 

Blister  canker  (Nummerlana  discreta). 
Cankers  are  formed  on  the  limbs  or  body 
and  at  first  are  dull  brown  in  color,  later 
becoming  darker.  When  the  canker  en- 
larges the  bark  blisters  and  comas  off. 
Finally  the  small,  raised,  nailhead  fruit 
bodies  of  the  fungiis  are  formed  on  the 
surface  of  the  wood.  Cut  out  small  cankers. 
If  large,  remove  the  diseased  limb. 

Broven  rot  (Sclerotinia  cinerea).  See 
Plum. 

Fire  blight  (Bacillus  Amylovorus) .  See 
Pear. 

Powdery  mildew  (Podosphaera  leuco- 
tricha).  The  leaves  become  covered  with  a 
white  or  grayish  powdery-like  mildew  which 
usually  affects  their  growth  where  infection 
is  severe.  Twigs  also  are  attacked.  In  the 
latter  part  of  the  season  minute  black  bodies 
may  Be  seen  on  this  whitish  overgrowth. 
Spray  with  a  mixture  prepared  by  adding 
3  pounds  of  copperas  (iron  sulfate)  to  50 
gallons  of  1-50  lime-sulfur  solution.  About 
four  sprayings  are  recommended  during 
the  season. 

Rust  (Gymnosporangium  Juniperi-vir- 
ginianae).  One  stage  occurs  on  the  red 
Cedar  as  Cedar  apples  which  are  brown 
gall-like  growths  and  produce  yellow  gel- 
atinous horns  in  Spring;  the  other  stage 
occurs  on  Apple  leaves  and  fruits.  The 
spots  on  the  Apple  leaves  are  at  first  small 


and  yellow,  but  later  they  become  crange 
colored  on  the  upper  side  of  the  leaf;  small 
pimples  develop  on  the  spots  while  on  the 
lower  surface  minute  cuplike  structures  are 
formed,  the  edges  of  which  are  split  in  a 
starlike  manner.  Severe  infections  cause 
the  entire  leaf  to  turn  yellow  and  fall.  To 
control  this  disease  eradicate  the  Red 
Cedars  within  a  radius  of  at  least  one  mile. 
Spraying  is  not  very  effective,  but  lime- 
sulfur  1-40  may  be  used;  spray  the  new 
leaves  as  they  unfold. 

Scab  (Venturia  inaequalis)  occurs  on  the 
leaves  and  fruit.  It  ahows  first  on  the 
under,  later  on  the  upper  surface  of  the 
leaves  as  circular,  olive  green,  superficial 
patches  which  later  turn  darker.  The  leaf 
under  the  spot  may  become  convex  or 
puffed.  When  infection  is  severe  the  entire 
leaf  may  be  involved.  On  the  fruit  the  spot 
is  at  first  olive  green  and  later  has  a  dark 
center  with  a  white  papery  margin.  This 
is  one  of  the  most  serious  of  Apple  diseases. 
Spray  with  lime-sulfur  (1-40).  (1)  When 
the  buds  show  green;  (2)  Just  before  the 
blossoms  open;  (3)  When  the  petals  fall; 
(4)  Two  or  three  weeks  after  the  petals  fall. 

Sooty  blotch  or  Fly  speck  (Leptothy- 
rium  pomi).  Irregular,  superficial,  sooty 
blotches  which  may  be  rubbed  off  the  apple 
skin,  or  minute  fly  specks  thickly  crowded 
in  spots  over  the  surface  of  the  fruit.  The 
treatment  for  Apple  scab  will  easily  control 
this  disease. 

Stippen,  known  also  as  "bitter  pit."  A 
disease  not  due  to  an  organism,  but  is  said 
to  be  due  to  the  improper  distribution  of 
water  to  the  fruit.  It  may  be  recognized 
by  the  depressions  on  the  surface  of  the 
fruit  which  are  caused  by  the  development 
of  brown,  corky  areas  in  the  flesh  of  the 
apple.  Good  cultural  practices,  as  proper 
drainage,  cultivation  and  pruning  should 
be  followed.  Uniformity  in  the  water 
supply  during  the  growing  season  reduces 
losses  from  this  disease  to  a  minimum. 

ASPARAGUS 
Rust  {Puccinia  asparagi)  attacks  the 
green  tops  which  develop  after  the  shoots 
have  been  cut.  It  may  be  recognized  by 
the  final  dying  of  the  tops  and  the  small  red 
or  black  colored  pustules  formed  on  the 


314 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


stems  and  needles.  In  severe  infections  the 
tops  turn  yellow  and  the  needles  fall  from 
the  stems.  Toward  the  end  of  the  season 
the  black  or  Winter  stage  develops.  To 
control  this  disease,  obtain  rust-resistant 
strains. 

ASTER 
Leaf  rust  {Coleosporium  Sonchi-arvensis) . 
May  be  recognized  by  the  orange-colored 
pustules  or  sori  which  develop  chiefly  on  the 
under  side  of  the  leaves.  Spray  with  Bor- 
deaux mixture,  before  the  rust  appears. 

BEAN 

Anthracnose  (Colletotrichium  linde- 
muthianum),  a  very  serious  fungous  disease. 
It  is  distinguished  by  the  circular  and 
sunken  black  spots  on  both  the  pods  and 
seed  which  may  at  certain  times  contain 
pink,  gelatinous  pustules  on  their  surfaces. 
The  leaf  veins  on  the  underside  of  the 
leaves  and  the  stems  also  may  be  affected. 
The  disease  is  carried  over  Winter  on  the 
seed,  hence,  use  clean  seed  obtained  by 
selecting  pods  free  from  these  spots.  Spray- 
ing with  Bordeaux  (5-5-50)  will  also  reduce 
the  amount  of  disease.  Resistant  strains  of 
some  varieties  like  Red  Kidney  are  now  to 
be  obtained. 

Blight  {Bacterium  phaseoli).  A  bac- 
terial disease.  Shows  at  first  as  large 
brownish  areas  on  the  leaves  with  yellowish 
water-soaked  margins.  Later  these  spots 
become  darker  in  color  and  dry.  The  pods 
also  develop  water -soaked  spots  which  are 
circular  or  irregular  in  shape  often  with  red 
margins,  and  not  sunken  as  in  the  case  of 
anthracnose.  As  with  anthracnose  the 
seed  which  becomes  infected  from  the  pod 
carries  the  organism  over  the  Winter.  No 
satisfactory  method  of  control  is  known 
except  the  use  of  disease-free  seed.  Resis- 
tant varieties  have  not  yet  been  developed . 

BEET 

Leaf  spot  (Cercospora  beticola).  Very 
common  fungous  disease.  Appears  first  as 
round  brownish  spots  with  red  to  purplish 
borders.  Later,  after  the  spots  enlarge, 
they  become  ashen  and  papety  in  the  center, 
which  finally  drops  out  and  leaves  holes  in 
the  leaf.  When  severe,  these  spots  may 
coalesce  and  destroy  the  entire  leaf.  Burn 
the  diseased  leaves.  Spray  with  Bordeaux 
mixture  (5-5-50)  when  the  plants  are  about 
six  weeks  old.  Make  later  sprayings  about 
10  days  apart. 

Root  rot  (Phoma  betae).  Causes  a  black 
dry  rot  on  stored  roots.  Small,  pimple-like 
structures  are  formed  on  the  surface  of  the 
diseased  area.  Also  large  circular  spots  are 
produced  on  the  leaves.  Spray  with  Bor- 
deaux mixture  and  remove  all  diseased 
leaves  before  placing  the  Beets  in  storage. 

Scab  {Actinomyces  chromagenus) .  Known 
by  the  circular  scabs  with  raised  margins 
and  depressed  centers  which  form  on  the 
roots.  Same  as  scab  on  Potatoes,  which  see. 
Do  not  grow  Beets  if  Potato  scab  is  known 
to  be  present  in  the  soil,  or  where  Beets 


have   been    previously    a£rected    with   this 
disease. 

BLACKBERRY 

Anthracnose.    See  Raspberry. 

Leaf  spot  (Septoria  Rubi).  Spots  appear 
on  the  leaves  first  as  small  whitish  or  brown- 
ish areas.  When  very  numerous  on  a  leaf, 
they  may  cause  it  to  dry  up.  Spray  with 
Bordeaux  mixture. 

Orange  rust.     See  Raspberry. 
CABBAGE 

Black  leg  {Phoma  lingam).  Affects  the 
leaves,  stems  and  roots.  The  leaves  are 
spotted,  but  not  seriously  injured.  The 
chief  injury  is  caused  by  a  rotting  of  the 
stem  and  root  which  turn  black;  the  leaves 
then  wilt  and  the  plant  dies.  Disinfect  the 
seed  as  for  black  rot. 

Black  rot  {Bacterium  campeslre) .  Affects 
also  Cauliflower,  Kale,  Rape,  Kohl-Rabi, 
Brussels  Sprouts,  Radish,  Turnip  and  other 
members  of  the  Mustard  family.  The 
leaves  show  at  the  edges  large  dead  areas, 
in  which  the  veins  are  black.  The  entire 
leaf  soon  yellows  and  falls  Irom  the  plant. 
The  blackening  of  the  veins,  easily  seen  on 
holding  a  diseased  leaf  up  to  the  light,  is 
diagnostic  of  this  disease.  On  splitting  a 
diseased  stalk,  a  blackening  of  the  sap  tubes 
is  apparent.  The  bacteria  live  over  in  the 
soil  and  on  the  seed.  Soak  the  seed  15 
minutes  in  corrosive  sublimate  solution  4 
ounces  to  30  gallons  of  water,  then  dry  in 
the  shade. 

Club  root  {Plasmodiophora  brassicae). 
A  serious  disease  caused  by  a  slime  mould, 
which  produces  enormous  swellings  of  both 
the  main  and  lateral  roots.  These  swellings 
or  clubs  are  irregular  and  unsightly  in 
appearance.  In  hot,  dry  weather,  wilting 
of  the  tops  of  affected  plants  frequently 
occurs.  The  organism  lives  in  the  soil. 
Practice  crop  rotation,  set  healthy  plants, 
apply  2  to  3  tons  of  lime  per  acre  to  infested 
soil  at  least  one  year  before  planting  again 
to  Cabbage. 

Yellows  {Fusarium  conglutinans) .  Its 
appearance  is  much  the  same  as  that  of 
black  rot,  but  the  darkening  of  the  veins 
begins  at  the  base  of  the  stem  and  works 
outward,  while  in  black  rot  it  does  just  the 
opposite,  starting  at  the  edge  of  the  leaf 
and  working  toward  the  base.  Use  seed  of  a 
resistant  variety. 

CARNATION 
Fusarium  Stem  rot  {Fusarium  sp.). 
Affects  the  stem  causing  a  dry  rot  near  the 
base.  A  slow  dying  of  the  top  takes  place. 
Change  the  location  of  plants  each  year,  and 
in  the  greenhouse  use  fresh  or  sterilized  soil. 
Avoid  over  watering. 

Leaf  spot  {Septoria  Dianthi).  Shows 
small  circular  grayish  spots  on  the  leaves 
and  stem.  Spray  about  once  a  week  with 
blue  vitriol  (copper  sulfate)  1  pound  to  20 
gallons  of  water. 


PLANT  DISEASES 


315 


Rhizoctonia  Stem  rot  (Corticium  vagum 
var.  Solam).  Rot  take3  place  at  or  just 
below  the  surface  of  the  soil  and  causes  the 
plant  to  suddenly  wilt.  Observe  the  same 
precautions  as  controlling  of  Fusarium  stem 
rot.    Do  not  set  plants  too  deep. 

Rust  {Uromyces  Caryophyllinus) . 
Appears  first  as  a  small  elongated  blister  like 
structure  which  later  ruptures  and  exposes 
deep  brown  powdery  masses.  Present  on 
both  the  stems  and  leaves.  Avoid  an  excess 
of  moisture  in  the  greenhouse  and  spray 
with  blue  vitriol,  1  pound  to  20  gallons  of 
water. 

CELERY 

Early  blight  (Cercospora  Apii).  Spots 
appear  first  as  pale  yellow  areas,  irregular 
and  somewhat  angular  in  outline.  Later 
they  turn  brown  and  finally  the  center 
becomes  an  ashen  gray._  May  destroy  the 
entire  plant.  Spray  with  Bordeaux  mix- 
ture (5-5-50).  Beginning  when  the  plants 
are  first  set,  make  about  6  applications 
during  the  season. 

CHERRY 

Late  blight  (Septoria  Petroselini  va  r 
Apii).  Affects  flowers,  which  turn  brown 
and  wither,  and  fruit,  which  at  first  is 
rotted;  then  small,  light  brown  pustules 
are  produced  on  its  surface.  Finally  the 
fruit  becomes  a  hard,  wrinkled  mummy, 
which  either  hangs  on  the  tree  or  falls  to 
the  ground.  Spray  with  lime-sulfur  (1-50) 
or  dust  with  90  parts  of  sulfur  to  10  parts  of 
arsenate  of  lead,  first  when  the  blossoms 
show  white  but  before  they  open,  later 
when  the  calyx  is  being  shed,  and  finally 
about  2  to  3  weeks  before  fruit  begins 
to  ripen. 

Leaf  curl  (Exoascus  Cerasi).  The  leaves 
become  crinkled  and  turn  reddish  in  color. 
On  their  lower  sxirface  appears  a  whitish 
coating.  They  fall  premateurly.  The  dis- 
eased leaves  appear  only  on  abnormal  out- 
growths from  affected  twigs  called  witches' 
brooms.     Prune   out  the   diseased   twigs. 

Leaf  spot  or  Shot  hole  (Coccomyces 
hiemalis) .  Spots  appear  on  the  leaves  which 
at  first  mere  discolorations,  soon  become 
dark  red  or  purple  in  color;  finally  the 
center  drops  out  leaving  a  "shothole,"  or 
the  leaf  turns  yellow  and  falls.  Plow  under 
eld  leaves  and  spray  with  lime-sulfur  (1-40) 
or  Bordeaux  mixture  (5-5-50);  or  dust  with 
sulfur  90  parts  and  arsenate  of  lead  10  parts. 
Make  first  application  when  calyx  ia  shed- 
ding; repeat  10  days  later  and  again  after 
picking.  Do  not  use  Bordeaux  on  sweet 
cherries. 

Powdery  mildew  (Podosphaera  Oxya- 
canthae) .  Leaves  and  twigs  of  young  shoots 
are  covered  with  patches  of  white  mildew 
which  spreads  finally  over  the  whole  leaf  or 
twig.  Small  black  spherical  bodies  develop 
on  the  surface  of  this  mildew.  Dust  with 
sulfur  or  spray  with  lime-sulfur  (1  to  50). 


CRANBERRY 

Gall  (Synchytrium  Vaccinit).  Small, 
reddish  galls  are  formed  on  the  young  stems, 
leaves,  and  sometimes,  on  the  flowers  and 
fruit.  They  are  in  color.  Burn  the  bog 
over  in  the  Autumn  and  keep  it  dry  during 
Winter. 

Hypertrophy  (Exobasidium  Oxycocci). 
The  buds  in  the  leaf  axils  grow  out  into 
shoots  which  bear  swollen,  enlarged  leaves 
of  a  pinkish  color.    No  remedy  ia  known. 

Scald  (Guignardia  Vaccinii).  Appears 
on  berries,  first  as  watery  areas  which  en- 
large and  soften  the  whole  berry  which 
turns  brown;  several  spots  may  develop 
on  one  berry.  Finally  the  affected  berries 
become  scalded  in  appearance.  Sometimes 
black  dots  appear  on  them.  Spray  with 
Bordeaux  mixture  (5-5-50)  to  which  a  resin 
fish  oil  sticker  is  added. 

CUCUMBER,  MELON  AND  SQUASH 
Anthracnose  (Coletotrichum  Lagena- 
rium)  causes  circular  brownish  spots  on 
leaves  and  elongated  light  brown  spots  on 
stems.  The  spots  on  the  fruits  are  sunken 
and  have  small  pinkish  gelatinous  masses 
on  their  surfaces.  Spray  frequently  with 
Bordeaux  mixture  (5-5-50). 

Downy  Mildew  (Peronoplasmopara 
cubensis).  At  first  small  yellowish  angular 
spots  are  produced  oa  the  leaves.  These 
enlarge  and  may  involve  the  entire  leaf 
which  finally  dies.  In  moist  weather  a 
white  downy  growth  may  be  seen  on  the 
under  side  of  the  leaf.  Spray  the  vines  every 
10  days  with  Bordeaux  mixture  (5-5-50). 

Wilt  (Bacillus  tracheiphilus).  Causes  a 
wilting  of  a  leaf  and  finally  of  the  entire 
vine,  which  dies.  Keep  vines  free  of  bugs 
and  striped  beetles  which  spread  the  bac- 
teria.   Pull  and  bum  diseased  vines. 

CURRANT 
Leaf  spot  (Mycosphaerdla  Grossulariae) . 
Appears  as  small  brown  spots  on  the  upper 
and  lower  sides  of  the  leaf.  As  these  spots, 
which  often  run  together,  enlarge,  the 
centers  become  whitish  and  small  black 
pimples  arise  on  their  surfaces.  Leaves 
turn  yellow  and  fall  prematurely.  Spray 
with  lime-sulfur  (1-50)  or  dust  with  a  mix- 
ture of  ground  sulfur  90  parts  and  powdered 
lead  arsenate  10  parts,  as  follows:  When 
the  first  leaves  appear  and  every  two  weeks 
following. 

Anthracnose  (Pseudopeziza  Ribis).  Ap- 
pears as  numerous  small  brown  circular 
spots  on  the  upper  aurface  of  the  leaves,  and 
also  on  the  berries.  When  severe  the  leaves 
turn  yellow  and  fall.  On  the  leaf  stems 
stnall,  slightly  sunken  spots  may  be  seen. 
Spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture  (5-5-50)  or 
lime-sulfur  (1-40)  first,  when  the  leaves 
are  unfolding  and  subsequently  at  intervals 
of  from  10  days  to  two  weeks.  Spray  more 
frequently  in  moist  weather. 


316 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


EGG  PLANT 

Leaf  spot  (Phomopsis  texanS).  Large » 
irregular  patches,  gray  or  brown  in  color, 
on  which  small  black  pimples  subsequently 
form,  are  produced  upon  the  leaves.  Simi- 
larly appearing  sunken  spots  or  cankers  are 
produced  upon  fruit  and  stalks.  Plant  only 
disease-free  seed  or  treat  seed  with  corro- 
sive sublimate  (1  to  1,000)  for  10  minute?. 
Wash  in  running  water  15  minutes  and  plant 
at  once.  Do  not  plant  on  land  which  grew 
diseased  Egg  plants  last  seasoo 

GOOSEBERFTY 

AnthraCopse.    See  Currant. 

Leaf  spot)     See  Currant. 

Powdery  mildew  (Sphaerotheca  Mors- 
uvae).  This  disease  may  be  recognized  by 
the  powdery  white  patches  occurring  on 
leaves,  stems  and  fruit.  These  patches 
finally  turn  brown  as  they  run  together 
Sometimes  diseased  berries  are  deformed 
and  may  crack  open  Spray  with  lime 
sulfur  (1-40)  when  th  buds  open  and  later 
at  intervals  of  10  days  until  foiU"  or  xnore 
spra,yinga  have  been  mjide. 

GRAPE 

Anthracnose  ((jloeosporium  ampelv- 
phagum).  Small  spots  with  raised  ^borders 
and  depressed  centers  are  formed  on  the 
shoots  and  tendrils.  These  enlarge  in  the 
long  direction  of  the  shoots  and  later  the 
center  becomes  more  depressed  ana  grayish . 
On  the  berries  small  dark  brown  spots  with 
red  border  appear;  as  they  enlarge  thej» 
become  depressed,  but  remain  circular. 
Cut  out  and  burn  diseased  wood.  Spray 
dormant  vines  with  lime-sulfur  (1-9). 
Spray  the  vines  with  Bordeaux  mixture 
(5-5-50)  first,  when  the  shoots  are  about  12 
inches  long,  second,  just  before  the  flower 
Jauds  open,  and  third,  just  after  the  blos- 
soms fall.  Follow  with  two  more  sprayings 
about  10  days  apart. 

Black  rot  (Guignardia  Bidwellii)  shows 
c~i  uerries  at  first  as  small  blanched  ;  reas. 
As  the  spots  increase  in  size  their  surfaces 
become  sunken  and  contain  numerous  small, 
black  pimples.  Usually  the  entire  grape  is 
diseased  and  dries  into  a  hard,  shriveled 
mummy.  Reddish  brown  spots  appear  on 
the  leaves.  Spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture 
(5-5-50)  as  for  anthracnose;  destroy  mum-, 
mies;  make  applications  of  spray  just  before 
rains. 

Downy  mildew  {Plasmopara  viticola). 
Appears  first  on  upper  side  of  leaves  as  small 
yellowish  spots,  indefinite  in  outline.  As 
these  enlarge  they  turn  brown  and  become 
dry  and  brittle.  On  the  lower  side  of  the 
spot  a  downy  white  growth,  noticeable 
especially  in  moist  weather,  appears. 
Other  parts  of  the  vines  are  similarly 
attacked.  Plow  under  old  fallen  leaves  in 
the  Spring.  Make  5  or  6  applications  of 
Bordeaux  mixture  (5-5-50)  beginning  just 
before  tl^e  blossoms  open. 


Powdery  tnildew  (Uncinula  necator). 
Powdery  white  patches  are  produced  on 
both  upper  and  lower  surfaces  of  the  leaves. 
Finally  on  these  white  patches  small  black 
pimple-like  bodies  develop.  Severe  attacks 
cause  dwarfing  of  the  vines.  Dust  the 
diseased  plants  with  sulfur  from  one  to  six 
timea  during  the  season, 

LETTUCE 
Drop  (Sdefotinia  Libertihna).  Causes 
wilting  of  the  plants  which  drop  to  the 
ground.  "White  cctton-like  growths  appear 
on  the  underside  of  the  leaves.  Later  small, 
hard,  black  bodies  are  formed.  Remove 
and  burn  all  diseased  plants.  Greenhouse 
beds  may  be  disinfected  with  formaldehyde. 
Very  difficult  to  control  especially  in  field- 
grown  lettuce. 

Gray  mold  (Botrytis  sp.).  Seldom 
cerious  in  the  field .  The  edges  of  the  outer 
leaves  are  first  wilted,  the  wilted  patches 
becoming  covered  with  grayish,  downy  fuzz. 
The  whole  leaf  may  be  affected  and  die,  the 
disease  working  slowly  toward  the  center 
of  the  head.  Avoid  high  temperature, 
excessive  moisture   and  poor   ventilation. 

LILAC 
Mildew  {Mlcrosphaera  AlnT).  White 
powdery  patches  form  on  the  leaves.  Later 
in  the  season  these  become  a  grayish  white 
and  bear  minute  black  spherical  bodies. 
Dust  with  sulfur. 

LILY 

Blight  (Botrytis  sp.).  Yellowish  brown 
spots  appear  on  the  leaves  and  buds  early 
in  the  Spring.  Later  these  enlarge  and 
become  covered  with  a  light  brown  dusty 
mold,  which  destroys  the  leaves  and  blos- 
soms.    Remove  infected  plants  and  burn,. 


MELON 


See  Cucumber. 

ONION 

Blight  or  Downy  mildew  (Peronospora 
Schteideniana) .  At  first  patches  of  fuzzy 
down  cover  the  affected  leavos;  these  spots 
are  soon  blanched  and  in  a  short  time  the 
leaves  are  entirely  wilted  over.  Spray  with 
Bordeaux  mixture.     Not  easily  controlled. 

Neck  rot  (Botrytis  Allii).  Causes  a 
rotting  of  the  Onion  bulb  at  the  neck, 
accompanied  by  a  grayish  fuzz  and  hard 
black  bodies.  The  disease  occurs  in  the 
field  but  is  particularly  severe  in  storage. 
Remove  and  destroy  diseased  plants.  Store 
bulbs  in  a  cool,  dry,  well  ventilated  place. 
Dry  thoroughly  before  storing. 

Smut  (Urocystis  Cepulae).  Attacks 
young  seedlings  but  not  Onions  grown  from 
sets.  Shows  on  the  seedling  leaves  as 
elongated  opaque  spots,  which  finally 
rupture  and  expose  a  black  powdery  mass. 
Drill  in  formalin  (1  pint  to  16  gallons)  with 
the  seed  at  the  rate  of  200  gallons  per  acre. 


PLANT  DISEASES 


317 


PEA 

Leaf  spots  (Ascochyta  Pisi).  Small, 
circular  spots  with  dark  borders  and  lighter 
centers,  bearing  small,  black  pimple-like 
bodies,  form  on  the  leaves.  Similar  spots 
are  found  upon  the  pods  and  stems, ^  which 
also,  are  attacked.  Avoid  use  of  diseased 
seed. 

PEACH 

Brown  rot  (See  Cherry).  Dust  with 
sulfur  and  arsenate  of  lead.  Use  a  90-10 
mixture. 

Leaf  curl  (Exoascus  deformans).  At 
first  the  new  leaves  swell  and  wrinkle,  the 
leaf -blade  puckering  along  the  midrib. 
At  this  time  the  leaf  is  peculiarly  colored 
with  red  and  yellow  tints.  Later  the  upper 
portions  of  the  affected  leaf  turn  whitish 
and  assume  a  velvety  appearance.  Spray 
in  the  Fall  or  the  early  Spring  before  the 
buds  swell,  with  lime-sulfur  (1-15).  Cover 
every  bud. 

Yellows  (Cause  unknown).  May  be 
recognized  by  the  yellowish  color  of  the 
foliage  and  the  premature  development  of 
the  fruit.  The  appearance  of  an  excessive 
number  of  slender  yellowish  shoots  occurs 
in  advanced  stages  of  the  disease.  Destroy 
affected  trees.  Do  not  drag  them  through 
the  orchard. 

Scab  (Cladosporium  Carpophilum).  Oli- 
vaceous to  black,  scabby  patches  on  the 
fruit  and  twigs.  When  severe  the  spots  run 
together.  The  fruit  is  often  distorted  and 
the  skin  may  crack  open.  Spray  with  self 
boiled  lime-sulfur  (8-8-50)  four  to  five  weeks 
after  the  petals  fall,  and  again  three  weeks 
later,  or  better,  dust  with  sulfur  and  arse- 
nate of  lead,  as  for  brown  rot. 

PEAR 

Fire  blight  (Bacillus  amylovorus) .  The 
blossoms,  young  fruit  and  twigs  appear  as  if 
burned,  but  affected  leaves  remain  attached 
to  the  twigs.  Cankers  are  formed  on  the 
larger  limbs  and  in  the  Spring  milky  drops 
filled  with  bacteria  exude  from  them.  Cut 
out  the  cankers  in  the  fall  and  early  spring 
and  disinfect  the  wound  with  corrosive 
sublimate  _  (1-1000).  Later  paint  over 
wounds  with  coal  tar.  During  the  Summer 
remove  diseased  spurs  and  twigs  as  fast  as 
they  appear  and  disinfect  cut  surfaces  with 
corrosive  sublimate. 

Leaf  spot  (Mycosph/ierella  sentina) . 
Small  angular  spots  with  definite  dark 
colored  margins  and  grayish  white  centers 
are  found  on  the  leaves.  Spray  with  lime- 
sulfur  (1-50)  just  after  the  petals  fall, 
two  weeks  later,  and  again  in  another  two 
weeks. 

Scab  {Venturia  Pyrina) .    See  Apple  scab . 

PEONY 

Blight  (Botrytis  Paeoniae).  Causeb  a 
rotting  off  of  young  shoots  early  in  Spring. 
Brownish  spots  with  target  board  markings 


form  on  the  leaves.  In  moist  weather  a 
grayish  fuzz  may  be  observed  upon  these 
diseased  portions.  The  same  disease  blasts 
the  buds.'  Sometimes  small  black  bodies 
are  produced  on  the  rotted  stems.  Remove 
and  burn  the  diseased  parts.  Spray  with 
Bordeaux  mixture. 

PLUM 

Black  knot  {Plowrightia  morbosa).  Knots 
from  }/2  in.  to  several  inches  in  length  are 
produced  on  the  young  twigs.  At  first 
olivaceous  in  color,  they  later  turn  to  a  coal 
black.  Frequently  the  twigs  on  which  knots 
form  are  bent  back  upon  themselves.  Re- 
move and  burn  the  knots  in  the  Fall  or 
early  Winter. 

Brown  rot.    See  Cherry. 

Shot  hole  (Coccomyces  prumophorae) . 
See  Cherry. 

POTATO 

Blight  (Phytophthora  infestans).  Spots, 
black  in  the  center  and  with  a  water-soaked 
margin,  begin  to  develop,  usually  at  the  tip 
or  margin  of  the  leaves.  Under  moist  con- 
ditions a  white  frost-like  down  encircles  the 
diseased  portion.  Soon  the  whole  plant 
dies.  At  this  time  an  offensive  odor  is 
developed.  Spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture 
(5-5-50)  when  the  plants  are  about  6  in. 
high.  Follow  with  other  sprayings  about 
10  days  apart.  Spray  just  ahead  of  rain 
periods  if  possible. 

Rhizoctonia  stem  rot  (Corticium 
vagum).  Small,  brownish  black  bodies 
which  may  be  easily  removed  from  the 
skin,  form  on  the  surface  of  the  tubers.  The 
sprouts  often  rot  before  they  get  through 
the  ground.  The  stem  near  the  ground  is 
also  attacked  and  often  rotted.  Plants 
grown  from  such  seed  produce  many  little 
potatoes.  Treat  the  seed  with  corrosive 
sublimate  (4  ounces  to  30  gallons)  for 
IJ^  hours. 

Scab  {Actinomyces  scabies).  Rough  scabs 
on  the  surfaces  of  the  potato.  Usually  the 
margin  is  raised  and  the  center  depressed. 
Avoid  the  addition  of  lime  or  wood  ashes 
to  the  soil.  Treat  seed  with  corrosive  sub- 
limate solution,  (4  ounces  to  30  gallons  of 
water),  for  13^  hours. 

RASPBERRY 

Anthracnose  {Plectodiscella  veneta). 
Affects  principally  the  canes,  which  at  first 
show  small,  purplish  elliptical  spots.  Later 
these  become  larger  and  somewhat  sunken 
and  the  centers  turn  a  grayish  white. 
Sometimes  these  spots  run  together  and 
large  areas  of  the  stems  become  diseased. 
Remove  diseased  canes.  Set  only  plants 
free  from  the  disease.  Spray  with  Bor- 
deaux mixture    (4-4-50). 

Orange  rust  (Gymnoconia  interstitialis) . 
A  bright  orange  colored  rust  covering  the 
under  side  of  the  leaves  which  become  dwarf- 
ed and  rolled .  Dig  up  and  destroy  diseased 
plants. 


318 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Leaf  spot.     See  Blackberry. 
ROSE 

Black  spot  (Diplocarpon  rosae).  Cir- 
cular or  oval  black  patches  with  indefinite 
margins  on  the  upper  side  of  the  leaves. 
Often  whole  leaves  become  covered  when 
these  spots  run  together.  Affected  leaves 
turn  yellow  and  fall  prematurely.  Spray 
with  ammoniacal  copper  carbonate  or  dust 
with  sulfur. 

Powdery  mildew  (Sphaerotheca  pan- 
7wsa).  Powdery  patches  on  the  leaves  and 
sometimes  on  the  young  shoots.  Dust  with 
sulfur.  ' 

Squash.     See  Cucumber. 

STRAWBERRY 

Leaf  spot  (MycosphaereUa  Fragariae). 
Small  red  to  purplish  spots  which,  as  they 
enlarge,  become  grayish  white  and  papery 
in  the  center  with  a  purplish  border. 
Remove  the  diseased  leaves  before  setting 
plants  and  spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture 
(4-4-50).  Mow  leaves  after  fruiting  and 
burn  over  the  patch. 


SWEET  POTATO 

Black  rot  (Sphaeronema  fimhriatum) . 
Dark  brown  to  black  patches  on  the  surface 
of  the  Potatoes  indicate  rotted  portions 
beneath.  The  affected  parts  are  dry  and 
black.  Avoid  diseased  sets  and  plant  in 
soil  that  is  not  infested.  Practice  crop 
Jotation. 


Soft  rot  (Rhizopus  nigricans).  The 
potatoes  become  soft  and  wrinkled  and  a 
while,  mcldy  growth  develops  on  their 
surface.  This  later  takes  on  a  gray  to 
blackish  appearance.  Store  in  a  cool, 
dry,  well  ventilated  cellar  and  from  time  to 
time  remove  all  diseased  Potatoes. 


TOMATO 

Blossom  end  rot.  (Cause  unknown.) 
A  black,  dry  rot  which  occurs  at  the 
blossom  end.  Greatly  influenced  by  the 
soil  moisture.  Increase  the  water  holding 
capacity  of  the  soil  by  proper  cultivation, 
irrigation  and  addition  of  organic  matter. 

Leaf  spot  (Septoria  Lycopersici) .  Small 
numerous  circular  spots  with  definite 
margins  on  the  leaves.  Small,  black, 
pimple-like  structures  develop  toward 
their  centers.  Spray  thoroughly  with  fish 
oil  soap-Bordeaux,  especially  the  lower 
surfaces.     Remove  diseased  leaves. 


TULIP 

Blight  (Botrytis  parasitica,.  On  the 
dormant  bulbs  as  small  black  bodies  about 
the  size  of  pinheads.  Causes  a  spotting  of 
the  leaves  and  flowers  and  finally  blighfs 
them.  When  the  stem  is  rotted  through, 
the  plant  falls  over.  A  grayish  fuzz  may 
be  seen  on  affected  parts  in  moist  weather. 
Select  clean  bulbs  to  set  out  in  the  Fall  and 
in  the  Spring  remove  and  destroy  any 
diseased  plants  which  may  appear. 


For  complete  works  on  the  subject  of  this  chapter 
we  recommend 

DISEASES  OF  CULTIVATED  PLANTS  AND  TREES,  by  George  Massee. 

A  valiuible  addition  to  agricultural  literature,  by  the  well-known  author  of  *' Plant 

World,"  "British  Fungus  Floral,"  etc.    Illustrated.    Cloth.    Svo.     Price,  $2.90 

postpaid. 

DISEASES   OF  ECONOMIC  PLANTS,    by  F.  L.  Stevens  and  J.  G.    Hall. 

A  work  designed  to  meet  the  needs  of  those  who  wish  to  learn  to  recognize  and 
treat  plant  diseases  without  the  burden  of  long  study  as  to  their  causes.  It  indicates 
the  chief  characteristics  of  the  most  destructive  plant  diseases  of  the  United 
States,  and  gives  information  regarding  the  best  methods  of  the  prevention  and 
cure  of  these  diseases.    Illustrated.    Cloth.    \2mo.    Price  $2.15  postpaid. 


FUNGOUS  DISEASES  OF  PLANTS,  by  Benjamin  Minge  Duggar.  Every 
known  fungus  is  classified  and  named,  and  numerous  illustrations  render  con- 
siderable assistance  to  the  unorthodox  student  in  fixing  identification.  The 
principles  and  methods  of  soil  sterilization  are  also  covered.  Price  $2.75  postpaid. 
Secure  your  copy  where  you  bought  your  Garden  Guide. 


CHAPTER  XXIV 


Lawn  and  Garden  Weeds 


THE  average  table  of  pests — whether  insects,  weeds  or  diseases — 
is  arranged  alphabetically  according  to  the  scientific  names  of 
the  subjects.  This  is  all  right  for  scientists  and  librarians  who 
know  these  names  and  are  interested  more  in  the  classification  of  the 
troubles  than  in  their  cure  or  prevention.  But  it  is  of  httle  value  to 
the  practical  gardener  who  doesn't  care  two  straws  what  the  Latin 
name  of  a  bug  or  a  weed  pest  may  be,  but  who  is  deeply  concerned  in 
its  habits  and  in  the  methods  by  means  of  which  it  can  be  eradicated. 

The  following  table  of  the  most  conmion  lawn  and  garden  weeds 
is  therefore  made  up  along  new  lines.  The  first  column  Hsts  the  most 
obvious  characters  of  the  weeds,  whereby  the  causal  observer  may 
recognize  and  begin  to  identify  them.  The  next  column  suggests 
their  distribution;  the  third,  the  season  when  they  are  in  bloom;  the 
next,  their  main  habits  and  means  of  propagation;  the  next,  brief 
directions  as  to  how  to  destroy  them;  and  the  last  two,  their  common 
and  botanical  names  (in  case  the  reader  desires  to  look  them  up  in 
other  more  exhaustive  work) .  The  weeds  fisted  are  those  which  give 
the  greatest  trouble  in  gardens,  lawns  and  around  homes,  rather  than 
in  meadows,  pastures,  field  crops  and  waste  places. 

Of  course,  weed  destruction  in  a  small  garden  or  on  a  lawn  where 
intensive  care  can  be  given  and  handwork  done  if  necessary,  is  relatively 
easy.  In  any  case,  the  principles  of  weed  control  are  based  on  (1) 
preventing  the  plants  from  maturing  and  scattering  seed;  (2)  preventing 
the  introduction  of  new  weeds,  either  in  seed,  manure,  etc.;  and  (3) 
preventing  perennial  weeds  from  making  any  top  growth — in  other 
words,  starving  them  out. 

Large  individual  perennials  such  as  Dock,  Plantain,  etc.,  and 
even  DandeHon  can  be  dug  out  with  fittle  effort  and  effectually  disposed 
of.  Annual  seed  bearing  weeds  are  best  controlled  by  thorough 
cultivation  early  in  the  season  before  the  first  crop  has  a  chance  to 
reseed.  Every  weed  kified  in  May  means  hundreds  prevented  thereafter. 

The  biggest  problem  is  encountered  in  fightmg  the  perennials  that 
spread  by  means  of  rootstocks  and  underground  stems.  Cultivation 
simply  cuts  up,  distributes  and  helps  to  multiply  these.  If  possible, 
the  best  plan  is  to  dig  out  the  entire  root  system  and  burn  it.  Where 
there  is  too  much  land  for  this,  pigs  will  often  clean  up  the  weeds  in  a 
season,  or  they  can  be  smothered  out  with  a  heavy  crop  of  Buckwheat 
or  Cabbage.    Persistence  is  essential  to  success. 

319 


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CHAPTER  XXV 

Greenhouses,  Hotbeds  and  Frames 

Advantages  of  a  Greenhouse — What  Can  be  Grown — Green- 
houses for  the  Amateur — Span-Roofed  Houses — Attached  Con- 
servatories— Heating — Frames  and  Their  Uses — Management 
of  Hotbeds  and  Coldframes — ^Useful  Little  Forcing  Structures 

IF  we  but  appreciated  a  greenhouse  at  its  true  value,  and  knew  the 
pleasure  as  well  as  the  profit  that  can  be  derived  from  the  posses- 
sion of  even  a  small  one,  there  would  be  many  more  erected.  It 
is  a  standing  wonder  that  in  a  country  so  wealthy  as  ours  there  should 
be  so  few  greenhouses  attached  to  the  residences  of  suburban  and  rural 
homes.  A  greenhouse  of  moderate  dimensions,  12  ft.  long  by  8  ft. 
wide,  can  be  had  from  a  few  hundred  dollars  up,  and  its  upkeep  will 
be  nothing  like  so  much  as  for  an  automobile. 

So  confident  are  we  as  to  the  pleasure  derivable  from  the  green- 
house, especially  in  the  cold  Winter  months  and  in  the  Spring  time 
before  the  ground  is  warm  and  dry  out  of  doors,  that  we  most  heartily 
urge  its  consideration  on  the  readers  of  The  Garden  Guide. 

Advantages  of  a  Greenhouse 

We  merely  wish  to  call  attention  in  this  place  to  the  advantages 
of  such  a  house.  A  succession  of  flowers  can  be  had  during  the  Winter 
at  small  cost,  either  by  lifting  the  Geraniums  from  out-of-doors  in  the 
Autumn  and  potting  them  up,  as  well  as  Salvias  and  some  other 
Summer  flowering  plants,  or  by  sowing  Httle  batches  of  seeds,  or 
planting  bulbs  and  bringing  these  on  gradually.  We  all  know  how 
difficult  it  is  to  make  a  success  of  Dutch  bulbs  in  the  ordinary  dwelfing 
house,  owing  to  the  dryness  of  the  atmosphere  and  the  fluctuation  of 
temperatures.  In  a  greenhouse  these  conditions  can  be  regulated  to 
suit  the  plants. 

What  Can  Be  Grown 

Among  other  subjects  that  can  be  grown  are  Chrysanthemums, 
Ferns,  Azaleas,  Forget-me-nots,  Pahns,  Primroses,  Cyclamen,  Schizan- 
thus  (sometimes  called  Poor  Man's  Orchid),  Pansies,  Sweet  Alyssum, 
and  a  great  variety  of  other  stock.  One  can  frequently  obtain  a  sHp 
or  a  seedfing  from  a  friend,  and  in  this  way  enrich  one's  little  coUection. 
There  are  many  plants  also  that  can  be  raised  from  seed. 

Little  cultural  reminders  are  pubhshed  in  the  seed  catalogs,  or  as 
a  cultural  guide  Oliver's  "Plant  Culture"  is  reconmiended. 

322 


GREENHOUSES  AND  FRAMES 


323 


There  are  many  hardy  plants  that  are  usually  grown  in  the  rock 
garden  that  can  be  placed  in  what  are  called  flower  pans,  that  is 
receptacles  as  wide  as  a  5-in.,  6-in.,  or  7-in.  pot,  but  only  3-in.  or  4-in. 
deep — and  which  can  be  brought  into  flower  in  February,  March  and 
April  in  a  greenhouse  that  has  no  higher  temperature  than  50  degrees. 

Greenhouses  for  the   Amateur 

One  well-known  firm  of  greenhouse  builders,  makes  a  house  12  ft. 
by  8  ft.  in  size  that  is  dehvered,  ready  to  be  screwed  together  for  a 
minimum  sum.  This  smart  little  house  is  made  of  the  best  air-dried 
Cypress,  with  iron  fixtures,  bracers,  ventilating  push  rods,  galvanized 
hinges  and  everything  complete,  including  six  heavy  iron  posts  for  the 
support  of  the  house.  The  glass  is  of  the  best  double  thick  A  quahty, 
10-in.  wide.  The  sides  are  made  in  two  panel  sections,  each  6  ft.  long 
and  4  ft.,  8^  in.  high.  There  are  two  benches,  11  ft,,  8  in.  long,  by 
2  ft.,  7  in.  wide,  allowing  for  a  walk  of  2  ft.,  4  in.  between.  Altogether 
one  has  an  indoor  garden  of  nearly  65  sq.  ft.,  and  this  includes  also 
the  httle  heating  boiler,  or  in  Southern  parts  of  the  country  where  a 
very  little  frost  is  experienced,  no  heating  apoaratus  may  be  necessary, 
and  the  cost  would  be  reduced  by  $75. 


A  curvilinear  roofed,  lean-to  conservatory  by  Hitchings  &  Co.,  with  flubstantial 
brick  foundation 


324 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


One  of  Hitchings'  small  greenhouses,  10  ft.  by  17  ft.,  suitable  for  so  many 
moderate-sized    suburban    places 

Of  course,  more  elaborate  greenhouses  with  cement  or  brick  founda- 
tion, and  of  iron  framework  with  curved  eaved  glass  or  in  other  shapes 
to  suit  the  architecture  of  the  residence,  can  be  erected,  but  would  run 
to  considerably  more  money. 

The  greenhouse  builders  are  always  willing  to  give  advice,  or  to 
estimate  for  the  erection  of  a  greenhouse,  and  it  would  be  well  to  con- 
sult them  whenever  a  building  is  contemplated. 

Span-Roofed  Houses 

The  best  results  are  usually  obtained  from  span-roofed  houses  run- 
ning east  and  west,  although  any  light  position  is  satisfactory.  The 
site  should  not  be  on  wet  or  low  ground,  nor  any  very  greatly  exposed 
place,  and  the  span-roofed  type  is  generally  preferred,  although  lean- 
tos  or  three-quarter  span  houses  with  the  long  slope  to  the  south,  are 
also  excellent. 

Attached  Conservatories 

Some  of  the  most  beautiful,  and  we  would  say  comfortable, 
conservatories  we  have  seen  were  attached  to  the  drawing  room, 
or  led  into  from  the  drawing  room,  thus  making  a  light,  beautiful 
lounge  or  extra  drawing  room.  A  billiard  room  can  be  built  also  in 
contiguity,  and  if  the  conservatory  is  large  enough,  aviaries,  and 
aquaria  for  fancy  fish,  may  be  provided. 


GREENHOUSES  AND  FRAMES 


325 


In  other  instances  we  nave  seen  the  conservatory  set  a  little  way 
out  from  the  house,  and  connected  with  the  latter  by  means  of  a  glass 
corridor.  Very  beautiful  results  can  be  attained  by  planting  vines 
and  training  them  under  the  roof  glass. 

It  should  be  mentioned  that  many  of  these  greenhouses  can  be 
used  for  the  growing  of  Tomato  or  Melon  crops,  or  for  the  raising  of 
early  vegetables  in  the  Spring,  if  that  is  thought  desirable.  ^ 

Heating 

Amateurs'  small  greenhouses,  such  as  the  portable  houses,  8  ft. 
3  in.  wide  and  12  ft.  to  20  ft.  long,  are  invariably  heated  by  hot  water. 
The  boiler  is  what  is  known  as  a  Junior,  and  is  usually  placed  in  a 


This  exemplifies  the  beauty  and  value  of  a  few  choice,  neat  growing  evergreens  close 
to  the  house.  Dwarf  evergreens  are  also  used  for  filling  the  window  boxes.  The  sun 
parlor  might  well  have  been  converted  into  a  conservatory,  or  one  could  have  been 

attached 

cellar  or  put  at  one  end  of  the  house.  Coils  of  2-in.  pipe  are  placed 
under  each  of  the  side  benches,  and  these  coils  are  connected  to  the 
boiler.  There  is  a  small  open  expansion  tank  at  the  end  of  the  coils 
to  fill  the  apparatus  with  water  and  take  care  of  the  expansion  of  the 
water  in  the  system.  The  amount  of  radiation  in  the  coils  is  generally 
proportioned  for  a  temperature  of  60  deg.  at  night  when  the  mercury 
outside  is  at  zero.  The  boiler  is  a  very  compact  and  efficient  heater 
and  requires  no  more  attention  than  an  ordinary  kitchen  stove. 


326 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


A  greenhouse  18  ft.  x  25  ft.  has  usually  three  benches  (two  side 
benches  and  one  center  bench)  and  is  heated  by  coils  of  pipes  placed 
under  the  side  benches  only,  leaving  the  space  under  center  bench 
free  so  that  bulbs  or  roots  of  various  kind  can  be  stored  there.  Hot 
water  is  invariably  used  for  heating,  as  the  boiler  requires  a  great  deal 
less  attention  and  a  more  even  temperature  can  be  maintained  than  if 
steam  is  used.  The  usual  temperature  is  55  to  60  deg.,  but  the  coils 
are  arranged  and  valved  so  that  the  temperature  can  be  controlled. 


The  "King  Junior"  garden  frame  made  by  the  King  Construction  Co.,  a  sort  of  minia- 
ture greenhouse,  the  top  being  on  hinges.    Being  glazed  on  the  sides  as  well  as  top  the 
plants  are  afforded  every  possible  bit  of  sunlight 


A  small,  round,  hot-water  boiler  is  used  for  heating  the  coils.  The 
boiler  is  arranged  with  a  shaking  and  dumping  grate.  WTien  the 
heating  apparatus  is  fdled  with  water  and  the  fire  started,  the  water 
circulates  through  the  pipes  and  maintains  the  required  temperature. 
The  entire  heating  apparatus  is  simphcity  itself;  a  child  could  take 
care  of  it. 

When  the  greenhouse  is  18  ft.  wide  and  50  ft.  long,  a  partition  can 
be  placed  in  the  center,  making  two  compartments,  and  different 
temperatures  can  be  maintained  in  each  if  desired.  The  compartment 
nearest  to  the  boiler  is  usually  heated  to  a  higher  temperature.     If 


GREENHOUSES  AND  FRAMES 


327 


Roses  are  to  be  grown  in  the  warmest  compartment,  it  is  customary 
to  place  heating  pipes  under  both  side  and  center  benches  for  bottom 
heat,  and  to  dry  out  the  benches.  The  heating  pipes  are  so  arranged 
and  valved  in  both  compartments  that  the  temperature  can  be  con- 
trolled as  desired.  For  heating  a  greenhouse  18  ft.  x  50  ft.,  a  small 
square  sectional  water  boiler  is  used.  There  are  no  steam  gauges  or 
complicated  fixtures  required  on  a  hot-water  heating  apparatus. 


Section  of  a  hotbed  frame  with  details  of  measurements, 
from  a  Cornell  bulletin 


Frames  and  Their  Uses 


The  garden  without  its  quota  of  frames  is  hke  an  automobile  with- 
out tires;  you  may  run  it,  but  it  is  hard  and  slow  work  to  get  anywhere 
with  it.  Frames,  properly  managed,  will  accelerate  and  supple- 
ment the  garden  throughout  the  year.  The  frames  (which  you  can 
build  yourself  with  httle  trouble  if  you  do  not  care  to  buy  them)  and 
the  sash  are  not  expensive.  With  reasonable  care  and  if  kept  well 
painted  they  will  last  indefinitely.  The  writer  has  a  sash  which  has 
been  in  continuous  use  for  over  twenty-two  years.  Concrete  frames  are 
growing  in  popularity,  as  they  can  be  built  at  httle  additional  expense 
and  will  last  practicaUy  forever.  They  are  tighter  and  warmer  than 
wooden  frames,  and  they  do  not  warp  or  settle,  so  that  the  sash  always 
fits  them  tightly,  a  very  important  point. 


328  GARDEN  GUIDE 

Standard  size  sash  covers  a  space  3  by  6  ft. ,  and  the  frames  to  sup- 
port it  are  made  to  correspond.  In  building  of  wood  it  is  better  to  use 
2-in.  planks,  although  inch  boards  are  often  employed.  In  building  a 
wooden  frame,  after  ascertaining  the  correct  size  to  fit  the  particular 
ttf^sh  you  are  buying,  put  in  posts  of  3  by  4  in.  stuff  with  the  inside  corner 
planed  down  for  an  inch  or  so,  to  avoid  a  sharp  edge.  There  should 
be  a  drop  of  about  from  3  to  4  in.  from  the  back  to  the  front.  If  you 
can  get  boards  or  planks  6  and  9  in.  wide,  and  6  or  12  ft.  in  length, 
practically  no  cutting  will  have  to  be  done  in  building  the  frame.  Let 
the  sides  come  down  well  below  the  ground  as  the  soil  inside  should  be 
a  few  inches  below  the  general  ground  le ve  1 .  After  it  is  finished ,  a  layer 
of  gravel  or  roofing  slate  on  the  outside,  or  banking  up  with  soil,  nearly 
to  the  top,  will  greatly  increase  its  efficiency  in  keeping  out  cold. 
Concrete  frames  should  be  made  4  to  6  in.  thick  and  sunk  well  below 
the  ground  level  so  that  the  frost  cannot  get  under  the  mason  work. 

At  least  part  of  your  sash  should  be  of  the  double  glazed  type.  Two 
layers  of  glass  instead  of  one  are  used,  with  the  i?esult  that  the  thin 
air  space  left  between  them  forms  a 
cushion  of  dead  air  which  is  as  effective  as 
a  blanket  of  wool  or  canvas  in  keeping 
out  the  cold,  while  it  admits  the  light 
and  sunshine  as  readily  as  a  single  layer 
of  glass.  With  a  good  tight  frame  and 
double  glass  sash,  crops  may  be  grown 
well  into  the  Winter,  and  started 
very  early  in  the  Spring,  without  any 
other  protection.  ^'"^"  '^"^"^  ''^""^ 

With  single  glass  sash,  wooden  shutters  or  burlap  mats  are  used  as 
an  extra  covering  in  cold  weather.  If  these  are  employed  in  addition  to 
double  glass  sash,  half  hardy  crops,  such  as  Lettuce,  can  be  carried 
through  very  severe  weather  without  any  artificial  heat  at  all,  and  the 
frames  will  be  ready  for  use  in  the  Spring  as  early  as  they  may  be 
wanted,  without  having  to  wait  for  them  to  thaw  out 

Hotbeds  are  made  one  to  two  feet  deeper  than  for  coldframes,  to 
allow  for  the  layer  of  manure  put  in  to  furnish  the  heat. 

Location 

Generally  it  is  best  to  locate  with  southern  exposure  and  with  a 
protection  of  trees  or  fence  at  north  (see  p.  330) .  Three  feet  should  be 
allowed  back  of  frame  to  the  fence  to  allow  for  working  facilities.  Do 
not  put  the  frame  where  the  Spring  rains  may  drain  into  it.  Good 
drainage  is  especially  important  in  Winter  as  well  as  in  Spring. 


HEDGES  AND  FENCES 


41 


trable  hedge.  Crataegus  crus-galli  and  oxyacantha  are  also  useful. 
They  will  require  close  pruning  when  small  to  induce  branches  at 
the  base  of  the  plants.  Crataegus  crus-galli,  on  account  of  its  dangerous 
needle-hlie  thorns,  should  not  be  set  out  where  there  is  a  sidewalk. 
Hedges  of  Hemlock,  Arbor  Vitae  and  Norway  Spruce  are  substantial 
when  the  taller  ones  are  wanted.  The  Hemlock  is  the  finest,  sinJe 
each  plant  merges  into  the  next  admirably. 

A  common  blunder  with  hedges  is  to  locate  them  too  near  walks  so 
that  they  are  injured  by  the  constant  brushing  against  them  by  the 
passersby. 

The  soil  should  be  prepared  deeply  and  well  as  for  ordinary  shrub 
planting.  The  practice  is  not  advised  of  placing  two  rows  of  shrubs  for 
a  hedge.  The  hedge  can  be  kept  cleaner  of  weeds  and  its  growth  is  more 
symmetrical  by  planting  only  one  row.  It  is  advisable  in  setting  a 
hedge  to  set  the  plants  so  that  they  touch  at  planting  time.  This  means 
that  the  smaller  plants,  as  Barberry,  will  be  planted  six  to  eight  inches. 


Privet  put  to  good  use  and  charming  city  street  arrangement 


42 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


and  Privets  ten  to  twelve  inches  apart.  The  soil  must  be  thoroughly 
firmed  around  the  plants  at  setting. 

For  pruning  hedges,  see  chapter  on  Pruning. 

Board  or  picket  fences  are  employed  between  the  smaller  subur- 
ban yards.  These  can  be  covered  with  Rambler  Roses,  Honeysuckle 
ill  variety,  or  other  climbers.  By  proper  pruning  and  thinning  these 
will  not  get  too  heavy  or  cumbersome,  and  can  readily  be  held  back 
if  the  fence  requires  to  be  painted.  Iron  fences  and  galvanized  or 
alumina  plated  fences  are  also  used,  the  latter  being  strong  and  dur- 
able. Or  again,  a  soil  bank  can  be  thrown  up  and  be  planted  with 
trees  and  shrubs.  The  consideration  of  brick  and  stone  walls  hardly 
comes  within  the  scope  of  this  book. 


Hemlock  Hedge. 


Tsuga  canadensis.    Imposing,  yet  the  greenery  is 
soft  and  pleasing 


For  a  complete  work  on  the  subject  of  this 
chapter,  we  recommend 

HEDGES,  WINDBREAKS,  SHELTERS  AND  LIVE  FENCES,  by  E.  P 
Powell.  Planting,  growth  and  management  of  hedge  plants  for  country  and 
suburban  homes.  Gives  accurate  directions  concerning  hedges;  how  to  plant 
and  treat  them;  and  especially  concerning  windbreaks  and  shelters.  Price 
80c.,  postpaid.    Secure   this   book   where   you   bought   your  Garden  Guide. 


Always  consult  Index  to  Contents.    Familiarize  yourself  with  it.     There 

are  hundreds  of  good  things  in  this  book  that  will  escape  your  attention 

if  you  do  not  use  the  Index  freely 


CHAPTER  IV 


Trees  and  Shrubs 

Trees  for  Shade  and  Shelter  Upon  the  Lawn — Street  Trees — 
Evergreens — Planting  Trees — Best  Shrubs — Shrubs  with  Edible 
Berries — Evergreen  Shrubs — Ground  Cover  and  Low  Growing 
Shrubs — Low  Growing  and  Trailing  Shrubs  for  Various  Pur- 
poses— Bushes  for  Wet  Places — Flowering  the  Branches  of 
Shrubs  Indoors — Blooming  Dates  of  Trees,  Shrubs  and 
Climbers — How  to  Treat  Nursery  Stock  and  Material  Gathered 
from  the  Wild 

TREES 

THERE  is  nothing  more  exalting  than  a  great  tree,  and- as  Prof. 
Bristow  Adams  suggests :  "The  wonderful  thing  about  the  tree  is 
that  it  keeps  growing  year  after  year  and  thus  takes  its  place 
as  the  oldest  living  thing."  As  such  we  should  revere  it  as  a  choice 
heritage,  or  if  we  fmd  no 
trees  growing  on  our  land 
we  should  plant  them  for 
our  posterity. 

Not  only  should  we 
plant  trees,  but  we 
should  care  for  them 
properly  and  prune  and 
spray  them  intelligently. 
Because  we  are  neglect- 
ful one  year,  an  Elm 
which  has  grown  for  a 
hundred  years  may  be  so 
damaged  by  the  Elm 
beetle,  that  recovery  will 
be  slow.  We  owe  it  to 
the  community  to  try 
to  save  it.  Do  not  allow 
the  removal  of  trees  by 
telephone  companies. 
When  excavating  for 
building  foundations  or 
grading      give      careful  ^^^^  p.,^  ^^^  .^  ^„  .^^  ^^^^^^^ 

thought     for     their     pro-  As  a  street  tree,  even  with  the  necessary  trimming 

to^firkT*  °^  ^*®  lower  branches,  it  is  still  imposing.     Hard 

lecuon.  and  long  lived 

43 


Mj 

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V       ''^^ySj 

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f>  ^/^ 

B 

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i 

i 

'*CL^C» 

44 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Trees  for  Shade  and  Shelter  Upon  the  Lawn 

The  trees  each  of  us  would  choose  for  our  lawn  decoration  would 
most  probably  be  those  for  which  we  have  a  personal  Uking.  From 
childhood,  we  reverence  a  certain  type  of  tree  either  because  of  fruits 
it  bears,  its  shape  or  its  Fall  colors.     Nothing  compares  with  the 

American  Elm  for 
restful  beauty;  es- 
pecially so  are  the 
forms  which  are  vase- 
shaped  and  with  foH- 
age  to  the  soil.  The 
Tulip  tree  makes  a 
strong  appeal;  the  fo- 
hage  is  glossy  bright 
green  above  and  pale 
below,  and  the  tight 
bark  of  older  trees  is 
beautiful.  What  is 
more  effective  than  a 
huge  Red  or  Black 
Oak  with  its  strong 
and  often  crooked 
branches,  which  so 
often  grow  out  at 
right  angles  to  the 
trunk  P  Such  a  tree 
is  in  mind  which 
takes  up  as  much 
room  as  the  httle 
Dutch  house  beneath 
it.  Specimen  Beeches, 
which  are  branched  to  the  soil,  though  usually  very  formal  in  shape, 
are  yet  graceful.  All  persons  progressive  enough  to  read  garden  books, 
of  course,  would  never  spoil  the  beauty  of  the  lawn  trees  by  removing 
the  lower  limbs.  This  especially  applies  to  the  Beech.  It  is  pecuhar, 
but  many  persons  have  not  realized  that  if  they  prune  off  the  limbs  of  a 
young  tree  it  is  very  dijBicult  ever  to  get  new  branches  to  start  out 
from  below  again.  The  white  Birch  is  graceful  and  dainty,  but  it  is 
being  attacked  by  a  borer  to  such  an  extent  that  it  is  best  not  to 
advise  planting  it.  To  this  brief  hst  might  be  added  a  host  of  others 
according  to  personal  preference. 

Besides  the  larger  trees,  there  are  a  great  number  of  very  useful 


The  Oriental  Plane.     Platanus  orientalis 

Much  used  in  street  planting  and  best  en>ployed  where  the 
housed  stand  60  to  80  feet  apart  across  the  street 


TREES  IN  TOWNS 


45 


smaller  growing  trees.  There  are  many  Crab  Apples  which  are  most 
excellent;  cue  of  the  prettiest,  with  double  pink  flowers,  is  Bechtel's 
Grab.  A  very  handsome  variety  of  Japanese  Crab,  has  deep  red  buds 
which  on  opening  become  white  or  a  blush  pink.  The  beauty  of 
this  tree  in  bloom  is  overpowering.  Many  of  the  Thorn  Apples  are 
handsome.  They  require  a  great  deal  of  water  and  should  not  be 
planted  where  they  can  rob  the  perennials. 

A  tree  known  but  Uttle  and  valued  because  of  its  very  superior 
Autumn  tints,  is  the  Sorrel  tree  (Oxydendron).  For  Autumn  effect, 
the  Maples  are  excellent,  as  is  also  the  Sweet  Gum. 

One  must  avoid  great  spots  of  vivid  color  in  trees,  for  too  great 
an  abundance  of  purple  Plums  and  Beeches,  Japanese  Maples  and 
variegated  yellow  forms  are  going  to  de- 
stroy the  dignified  beauty  of  your  garden. 


Evergreens 

We  must  now  say  a  word  about  the 
evergreens.  They  are  ever  beautiful  and 
ever  graceful  as  well  as  evergreen.  To  no 
other  trees  does  the  injunction  to  let  the 
lower  limbs  grow  apply  so  much  as  to  the 
evergreens.  How  different  are  our  tastes! 
In  the  evergreens  some  of  us  enjoy  the  in- 
formal, look-as-though-they-were-weather- 
beaten  sorts.  We  enjoy  Pines  which  have 
had  some  accident  when  young  and  have 
four  or  five  trunks  instead  of  one.  We 
admire  the  Austrian  Pine  at  any  stage  of 
its  growth;  the  Pitch  Pine  when  it  becomes 
old  and  picturesque,  with  its  sturdy  short 
branches,  and  persistent  globular  cones, 
and  the  long,  heavy  foHage  of  the  Red 
Pine.  Others  will  much  prefer  the  conical 
Firs  and  Spruces.  The  greatest  beauty  is 
seen  in  a  perfect  specimen  of  Norway  or 
Oriental  Spruce,  branching  to  the  soil  and 
hung  with  huge  cones;  or  perhaps  the  blue- 
green  or  grayish-green  fohage  of  the  Silver 
Fir  (Abies  concolor)  is  a  great  attraction, 
for  this  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  trees 
of  this  type.  The  latter  is  prettier  than 
the   Colorado   Blue   Spruce,   which   some 


American  Arbor  Vitse 

Thuya      occidentalis      fili- 

foiniis.    Highly  decorative, 

standing     singly     at     any 

appropriate   point 


46 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


think  is  over  planted;  it  is  a 
trifle  bright  and  has  such  stiff 
fohage  that,  in  the  minds  of 
many,  it  does^ot  compare  with 
the  softer  and  more  graceful 
fohage  of  the  Silver  Fir. 

Among  smaller  growing 
evergreen  trees  we  have  the 
Japanese  Cypresses  or  Re- 
tinisporas,  the  fohage  of  which 
is  graceful  and  the  habits 
charming.  The  Arbor  Vitaes, 
especially  the  Chinese  species, 
are  very  handsome.  For  mass 
planting,  the  Hemlock  is  ad- 
mirable; the  foliage  is  most 
dainty;  the  trees  merge  into 
one  another  very  nicely.  Be- 
cause of  the  interesting  bristly 
appearing  cones  and  the  soft 
fohage,  the  Douglas  Fir  is  to 
be   admired.  The   Rocky 

Mountain  forms  are  hardy, 
but  the  Coastal  Plain  form  is 
not  in  the  East.  The  Irish 
Juniper  is  most  slender  and 
vertical,  but  it  is  an  inferior 
tree  because  the  Winter  snows 
spread  the  branches  and  often 
break  them  or  ruin  the  shape  of  the  tree.  It  would  seem  well  to  tie 
the  trees  up  a  httle  before  Winter.  The  pyramidal  forms  of  Juniperus 
virginiana  are  superior  to  the  Irish  Juniper.  They  are  a  substitute 
for  the  popular  Cypress  effects  seen  in  France. 

Street  Trees 

All  trees  are  not  adapted  for  street  planting.  Some  of  them  are 
too  rapid  growing,  so  that  the  wood  is  soft  and  the  trees  short  hved. 
The  poplars  well  illustrate  this  class.  They  are  miserable  trees,  for 
they  break  easily  in  storms;  their  roots  enter  the  sewer  pipes  and 
they  heave  up  sidewalks.  Cities  which  have  good  forestry  control 
are  making  the  planting  of  this  tree  a  misdemeanor.  The  soft  Maple, 
the  Sycamore  Maple,  the  European  Ash,  Birches,  Willows,  Tuhp  Tree 
and  the  Box  Elder  come  in  this  class.    Other  trees  are  objectionable 


The  Colorado  Blue  Spruce 

There  are  more  delicate  and  softer  appearing 
evergreens,  it  is  true,  but  even  so  the  Blue 
Spruce  has  a  place  all  its  own  as  a  sturdy, 
hardy  and  beautifully  colored  specimen  tree 


TREES  IN  TOWNS 


47 


because  their  attractive  fruits  and  flowers  are  apt  to  be  picked.  In 
this  case,  the  form  of  the  tree  is  usually  spoiled.  Examples  of  trees 
of  this  class  are  Chestnut,  Hickory,  Horse-Ghestnut,  Gatalpa,  Black 
or  Common  Locust,  Magnoha,  Dogwood,  Mountain  Ash.  The  Gatalpa 
and  Horse-Ghestnut  are  really  objectionable  because  of  their  mussy 
habit  of  dropping  flowers,  young  fruits  or  bud  scales. 

Good  street  trees  stand  adverse  conditions,  are  more  or  less  free 
from  insects  and  diseases  and  furnish  shade,  but  not  too  dense;  they  are 
long  lived,  and  those  which  are  arching  are  preferred  by  many  to  the 
more  formal  globular  forms.  Prof.  Curtis  of  Cornell  University,  ad- 
vises the  following  trees  for  various  widths  of  street. 

For  narrow   streets    (less   than   sixty   feet   between '  buildings)  i 
the  trees  should  be  planted  alternately  and  spaced  for ty^feet_  apart. 
The  following  may  be 
used: 

Pin  Oak.     A  tree  of 

medium    size,    more 

slender    than    most 

Oaks;    one    of   best 

trees      for      narrow 

streets-      Especially 

likes    moisture,    but 

will  adapt  itself  to 

other  conditions. 
Green  Ash.    A  small 

but  hardy  tree.     It 

is  the  species  Frax- 

inus    pennsylvanica, 

var.  lanceolata. 
Tree  of  Heaven  (Ai- 

lanthus  glandulosa). 

This    tree   is    excel- 
lent for   dry   paved 

tenement  sections  of 

cities,   enduring 

smoke  and  dust.  The 

wood  is  brittle  and 

the  trees  are  danger- 
ous when  they  are 

old.       Because    the 

flowers  of  the  male 

tree  emit  a  disagree- 
able odor  the  female 

form     only     should 

be  planted. 

For  medium  width      ,  ,  /  ^^?^  fi.^^"  composition. 

+        .         /n  •  '^  "^®  ^^®  ^^  made  of  Pine  trees  and  conifers  as  well  as 

streets       (irom      sixty  deciduous  subjects.    The  arch  of  Roses,  the  airy  Summer 

fppt  tn  AiVVif-vr  foof  l^^  house,  the  flower-fringed  water  pool   and  other  features 
leet  to  eignty  leet  be-  here  are  well  placed  and  excellent 


48  GARDEN  GUIDE 

tween  buildings),  the  trees  should  be  spaced  forty  feet  apart.     The 

following  may  be  used: 

Omental  Plane.    An  excellent  street  tree.    It  is  of  rather  rapid  growth; 

stands  smoke. 
Norway  Maple.  A  drought-resistant  and  smoke-enduring,  symmetrical 

and  tough  tree.    It  is  too  low-headed  for  streets  with  wires. 
Maidenhair  Tree,  or  Ginkgo.    When  young,  this  tree  is  very  erect,  but 

when  it  becomes  older,  the  head  broadens  out. 

For  wide  streets  (over  ninety  feet  between  buildings),  the  trees 
should  be  spaced  fifty  feet  apart,  and  where  possible  they  should  be 
planted  on  the  lawn  six  feet  inside  the  sidewalk  line.  This  should  be 
agreed  upon  and  carried  out  uniformly  by  all  property  owners  on  the 
street.  The  following  may  be  used: 
American  Elm.    The  best  of  all  street  trees  when  given  room,  good  air 

and  water.  The  tree  grows  80  to  100  feet  tall. 
Red  Oak.  It  cannot  grow  in  pavements,  but  is  very  well  adapted  to 
wide  suburban  streets,  where  it  stands  poor  and  dry  soil,  but  does  not 
thrive  in  wet  situations. 
Sugar,  or  Hard  Maple.  An  excellent  tree  needing  moisture  and  suffer- 
ing from  heat,  smoke  and  dust.  It  should  only  be  used  on  the  wider 
streets. 

Planting  Trees 

The  best  method  of  ascertaining  how  to  plant  a  tree  properly 
is  to  observe  the  car^ftiEy  prepared  sketches.  More  can  be  seen 
in  these  pictures  than  can  be  expressed  in  words.  The  main  object 
is  to  have  a  hole  large  enougH-fof  ,the  roots,  and  to  get  the  trees  just  a 
little  deeper  than  they  stood  in  the  nursery.  An  important  necessity 
for  newly  set  trees  is  a  support.  The  wind  whips  the  tree  about  and 
the  young  roots  are  easily  loosened.  Stakes  should  be  set  deeply  and 
be  a  real  support ;  or  the  tree  may  be  supported  by  wires,  taking  care 
that  these  wires  are  in  contact  with  rubber  packings  on  the  branches 
so  that  they  are  not  girdled ;  pieces  of  old  rubber  hose  may  be  used  for 
this  purpose. 

Shrubs 

(Take  our  advice  and  pick  out  a  few  varieties  that  no  one  in  your  town  has; 
don't  Umit  yourself  to  what. everyone  sees  everywhere,  Hydrangeas,  Snowballs, 
common  Lilacs,  etc.  If  you  are  thinking  of  going  into  shrubs,  get  a  catalog  from 
a  reliable  dealer  and  study  it  carefully  for  its  illustrations  and  letterpress.  Bear 
in  mind  that  the  cheapest  is  not  always  the  best;  also  that  the  larger  plants  are 
naturally  dearer  than  the  smaller  ones.  Where  nearly  every  shrub  is  so  beauti- 
ful it  is  a  comparatively  easy  matter  to  select  two  or  three  out  of  the  ordinary.) 

For  the  garden,  whether  large  or  small,  some  shrubs  are  necessary. 
They  not  only  furnish  a  good  fohage  background,  but  some  are  very 
beautiful  for  their  flowers,  which  are  not  only  decorative  in  a  landscape 
way,  but  are  highly  useful  for  cutting.  They  are  the  proper  sort  of 
plants  for  hedges  and  for  screening  unsightly  objects. 


THE  USE  OF  SHRUBS 


49 


Wrong  method  of  planting. 

[n  the  left  hand  picture  the  tree  is  obviousl; 

)laced  too  high,  and  its  roots  are  also  cramped 

^n  the  other  case  the  soil  is  mounded  up  to 

much,   thus   shedding   off   the   water 


In  establishing  a  new  plant- 
ing of  shrubs  give  the  soil  good, 
deep  preparation  and  spade  in 
a  liberal  supply  of  stable  manure 
and  bonemeal.  Let  the  plant- 
ing be  done  either  in  Spring  or 
Fall.  In  the  Spring  shrubs 
should  be  set  out  as  early  as 
the  soil  can  be  worked.  After 
the  growing  season  begins  they 
are  somewhat  weakened  by 
not  being  in  the  soil;  besides, 
they  should  be  well  established 
before  the  hot  weather  arrives. 
Many  gardeners  prefer  to  plant 
in  the  Fall  because  often  there  is  less  work  which  is  urgent  at  that 
time  of  the  year.  All  such  stock  should  be  given  ample  time  in 
which  to  have  an  opportunity  to  get  their  roots  estabhshed  before  per- 
manent freezing  and  should  be  thereby  protected  during  the  Winter 
by  a  good  mulching  of  manure.  For  an  immediate  effect  the  shrubs 
should  be  planted  almost  twice  as  closely  as  they  are  to  stand  per- 
manently. It  is,  therefore,  ad- 
vised to  plant  only  part  of  your 
place  the  first  year  and  plant  it 
thickly.  By  the  time  you  are 
ready  to  plant  the  other  part 
you  can  draw  upon  the  first 
planted  beds  for  your  stock. 
Gardens,  unlike  houses,  can  be 
changed  and  rearranged  easily. 
Shrubs  rarely  suffer  from 
transplanting  if  done  at  the 
right  time  and  watered  thor- 
oughly. 

The  proper  time  for  prun- 
ing is  very  important.  See 
chapter  XVIII  on  this  subject. 


This  tree  is  correctly  planted,  each  root  well 
spread,  and  neither  too  deep  nor  too       igh. 
The  dotted  lines  show  where  to  dig  if  it  is  re- 
quired to  transplant  it 


Certain  of  the  Best 
Shrubs 

For   general   screen    plant- 
ing few  shrubs  compare  with 


50 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


the  Lilac.  It  is  exceedingly  hardy  and  the  flower  is  always  a  favorite. 
If  the  good  varieties  of  Lilacs  are  used,  the  individual  blooms  will  be 
important.  The  only  way  to  grow  good,  large  blooms  is  to  keep  all  the 
suckers  from  the  base  of  the  plant  removed;  plants  so  treated  will 
resemble  trees. 

Here  is  a  selection  of  good  varieties  of  Syringa  vulgaris,  the  garden 
Lilac,  flowering  in  late  May:  Single — Marie  Le  Graye,  white;  Charles 
X,  rosy  lilac;  Frau  Bertha  Dammann,  white;  Ludwig  Spaeth,  deep 
purple-red;  Gloire  des  Moulins,  rosy  hlac;  Alba  grandiflora,  white. 
Double — Mme.  Lemoine,  white;  Miss  Ellen  Willmot,  white;  La  Tour 
d'Auvergne,  violet-purple;  Mme.  Casimir-Perier,  creamy  white;  Presi- 
dent Grevy  (semi-double),  bluish  lavender;  Antoine  Buchner,  light  pink. 
Van  Houttei's  Spiraa,  also  known  as  Bridal  Wreath,  is  unrivaled 
for  prolificacy  and  grace  of  bloom. 
While  the  long  sprays  of  white  blossoms 
are  soon  shattered  by  the  rains  and  the 
plant  does  not  give  a  very  permanent 
flower  effect,  yet,  with  its  beautiful 
green  fohage  and  bushy  growth,  when 
properly  pruned,  it  remains  a  most 
satisfactory  shrub. 

For  the  early  Spring  display  there 
is  nothing  so  cheery  as  the  bright  yellow 
flowers  of  the  Golden  Bell  (Forsythia), 
of  which  there  are  several  forms;  the 
one  known  as  suspensa  is  most  efl'ective 
when  planted  at  the  top  of  a  wall  or  rock 


A  planting  diagram  of  the  National  Rose  Society. 

The  whitened  parts  of  the  stem  indicate  the  depth  to  which  a  standard  and  a 
dwarf  Rose  should  be  planted;  that  is,  the  same  depth  as  they  were  when  in  the 

nursery 


FLOWERING  SHRUBS 


51 


ledge  and  allowed  to  grow  down.  Even  after  flowering  the  foliage 
retains  a  good  color.  The  upright  forms  need  to  be  massed,  as 
individuals  are  not  graceful. 

A  popular  Summer-flowering  hardy  shrub  is  the  Hydrangea  panic- 
ulata  grandiflora.  It  has  handsome  dark  green  foHage  and  bears  in 
great  profusion  immense  panicles  of  white  flowers,  which  gradually 
change  to  rose  and  bronze.  The  shrub  should  be  severely  pruned  in 
early  Spring. 

The  Snowball  (Viburnum  opulus  sterile)  is  one  of  the  best  of 
flowering  shrubs,  bearing  clusters  of  handsome  globular  pure  white 
flowers  in  May. 

Bush  or  Shrub  Honeysuckles  (Loniceras)  are  attractive  shrubs  of 
upright  habit  and  very  desirable  for  mass  and  border  planting.  They 
produce  showy  flowers  which  are  often  followed  by  bright-colored 
berries. 

No  shrubbery  is  complete  without  a  specimen  or  two  of  the 
Japanese  Maple  (Acer  palmatum),  of  which  there  are  several  forms. 
They  are  beautiful  little  trees  or  shrubs  of  graceful  habit,  their  delicately 
cut  leaves  of  various  shades  of  color  being  especially  attractive  in 
Spring  and  Autumn. 

Excellent  beds  or  borders  are  arranged,  using  tall  shrubs,  such  as 
Red  Bud  (Gercis)  and  Hawthorns  at  the  back,  with  Mock  Orange 
(Philadelpuhs  coronarius)  and  Wiegela  at  the  midground  and  edged 
with  Deutzia  gracilis  or  Spiraea  Thunbergii;  or  for  lower  beds,  the  use 


Grouping  of  Spirsea  Van  Houttei  and  Viburnum  plicatum  (Snowball) 


52  GARDEN  GUIDE 

of  Berberis  vulgaris  at  back  with  Berberis  Thunbergii  and  Mahonia  in 
the  foreground. 

For  a  bed  remaining  attractive  during  the  Winter  use  a  few  Ker- 
ria  japonicas,  which  have  green  twigs,  or  Cornus  alba  sibirica,  with  its 
red  twigs,  both  of  which  retain  their  color  all  Winter. 

There  is  a  large  group  of  shrubs  with  beautiful  foliage.  None 
equals  the  graceful  horizontal  branching  of  Kegel's  Privet.  The  flowers 
are  not  very  conspicuous,  being  white,  but  they  are  followed  by  attrac- 
tive black  berries.  The  dainty  narrow,  minute  fohage  of  the  Spiraea 
Thunbergii  is  excellent;  the  tiny  white  flowers  coming  in  early  May  add 
an  extra  charm.  In  the  region  of  central  New  York  the  tips  of  branches 
Winter-kill,  so  that  they  need  to  be  dressed  a  httle  in  the  Spring. 

Certain  shrubs  are  fascinating  because  of  peculiar  flowers,  seeds 
and  bark.  The  Sweet  Shrub,  Calycanthus  floridus,  or,  as  it  is  also 
called,  the  Strawberry  Shrub,  is  very  interesting;  the  twigs  are  aromatic 
all  Winter  and  the  leather-petaled,  dull  red  flowers  are  very  individual 
in  fragrance.  Picked  today  they  have  one  fragrance,  perhaps  that  of 
Strawberries;  tomorrow,  the  fragrance  is  more  like  that  of  Apples. 
Closely  resembling  G.  floridus  is  C.  laevigatus,  but  the  flowers  of  the 
latter  are  not  so  sweet.  The  Winged  Spindle-Tree  (Euonymus  alata) 
bears  pecuhar  corky  angles  on  the  twigs,  and  a  funny  httle  orange 
fruit  inside  of  a  hard  red  husk. 

Shrubs  with  Edible  Berries 

Shrubs  which,  though  ornamental,  produce  berries  which  are  good 
to  eat,  are  interesting  not  only  to  you,  but  to  the  birds  they  attract. 
Many  persons  do  not  know  that  Barberries  make  a  very  good  jam,  es- 
pecially palatable  served  with  the  Thanksgiving  turkey  or  wild  game, 
being  appropriate  as  well  as  tasty.  Goumi,  or  Elseagnus  longipes,  pro- 
duces an  elongated  red  berry  in  June  or  July  which  is  exceUent  picked 
from  the  plant  and  eaten.  The  Vacciniums,  Blueberry  or  Huckleberry, 
besides  being  ornamental,  are,  as  we  all  know,  of  an  excellent  flavor. 
Elderberries  to  some  tastes  make  a  pie  superior  even  to  Huckleberries. 
The  red-fruited  variety  should  not  be  eaten.  The  Nannyberry  (Vi- 
burnum Lentago)  bears  a  black  fruit  very  freely.  It  has  somewhat 
the  flavor  of  Bananas.  Besides,  there  are  the  Blackberries,  the  Rasp- 
berries and  the  Currants,  species  which  are  often  ornamental. 

Broad-Leaved  Evergreen  Shrubs 

There  are  a  number  of  interesting  evergreen  shrubs.  None  are  so 
popular  as  the  Rhododendrons,  which  should  have  a  soil  free  from 


EVERGREEN  SHRUBS 


53 


Mixed  but  effective  planting  of  Iris,  Peonies.   Rhododendrons  and 

Juniperus  stricta  on  top  of  terrace.    Lombardy  Poplars  are  seen  in 

the  background  at  rear  of  house 


lime.  If  you  live  in  a  limestone  region,  before  you  attempt  to  grow 
them  dig  out  the  beds  to  a  depth  of  three  feet,  filling  in  with  good  wood- 
soil  or  leaf-mold.  Provide  good  drainage  by  putting  a  layer  of  ashes  at 
bottom  of  the  trench.  The  secret  of  success  with  Rhododendrons  is 
to  keep  the  roots  cool  and  moist.  In  Winter  they  should  be  deeply 
mulched  with  leaves.  In  Summer  they  must  have  an  abundance  of 
water.  In  some  Rhododendron  plantations  a  "syringe"  of  water  plays 
upon  the  beds  continually.  They  like  shade  usually,  but  often  by  a 
proper  choice  of  plants,  plantations  may  be  successful  even  in  the  sun. 
In  Winter  a  framework  of  burlap  gives  the  protection  from  the  wind. 
They  should  always  be  massed,  for  Rhododendrons,  unless  in  beds  by 
themselves,  are  either  apt  to  receive  too  much  fussy  care  or  none  at  aU. 
The  best  early  varieties  are  Roseum  elegans,  an  old  rose  colored  va- 
riety and  Everestianum  a  lavender,  both  flowering  in  late  May. 
Then  in  early  June  we  have  Album  elegans,  a  large  white;  Mrs.  C.  S. 
Sargent,  a  pink;  Caractacus,  a  red;  purpureum,  a  purple;  and  Lady 
Grey  Egerton,  a  silvery  gray  lavender. 

There  are  a  number  of  Azaleas  which  are  most  brilliant,  the  best 
being  Azalea  pontica  and  A.  mollis,  in  the  various  colors,  and  Azalea 
amoena,  which  is  a  superb  claret  pink. 


54 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


A  garden  scene  in  Summer. 

In  this  bosky  dingle  are  shrubs  of  many  kinds  and  tall  umbrageous  trees.     The 

Bananas  are  grouped  for  the  season  only;  likewise  the  Yuccas;  filamentosa  is  the 

hardiest  of  the  Yuccas 

A  shrub  which  has  proved  perfectly  hardy  is  the  Japanese  Holly 
(Ilex  crenata,  var.  microphylla) ;  it  grows  about  four  feet  tall  and  is 
excellent.  The  American  Holly  is  hard  to  transplant  but  seems  hardy 
as  far  north  as  Cape  Cod.  The  leaves  should  be  removed  and  plants 
transplanted  in  the  Spring.  The  Mountain  Laurel  (Kalmia  latifoha), 
is,  perhaps,  the  best  evergreen  shrub  grown;  it  succeeds  a  Uttle  easier 
than  Rhododendrons  and  without  protection  of  the  tops  retains  a 
good  appearance  all  through  the  Winter.  The  Mahonia,  or  Oregon 
Grape  (Mahonia  aquifolium),  is  an  excellent  shrub;  it  succeeds  perfectly 
if  planted  so  that  leaves  are  shaded  from  Winter  sun.  It  surely  looks 
fresh,  green  and  glossy  in  Midwinter. 


Ground  Cover  and  Low  Growing  Shrubs 

Oftentimes  one  wishes  a  ground  cover  of  very  low  shrubbery  in 
the  shade,  and  few  plants  are  as  valuable  as  Pachysandra  terminahs 
for  this  purpose.  Vinca  minor  is  also  useful;  but  the  leaves  are  not  so 
large.  The  common  Juniper  (Juniperus  communis  adpressa)  is  also 
valuable;  it  requires  sun.  All  of  these  three  plants  are  evergreen.  Sev- 
eral excellent  low  deciduous  shrubs  for  ground  cover  in  the  sunshine 
are  the  aromatic  Dwarf  Sumach  (Rhus  aromatica)  and  Yellow  Root 


EVERGREEN  SHRUBS  55 

(Xanthorrhiza  apiifolia),  which  spreads  rapidly  by  underground  stems; 
it  does  not  thrive  in  limestone  soils.  Sweet  Fern  (Myrica  asplenifolia) 
will  thrive  on  the  driest,  sunniest  slopes;  Memorial  Rose  (Rosa  Wichur- 
aiana)  is  excellent,  bearing  numerous  white  flowers  in  late  June  or  July; 
English  Ivy;  and  Euonymous  radicans  var.  vegeta  may  also  be  used. 
The  English  Ivy,  though  very  beautiful,  is  often  rather  tender;  it  en- 
joys a  moist  soil  and  shade  in  Winter. 

Climbing  Vines 

Nothing  contributes  more  to  the  charm  of  the  home  surroundings 
than  a  good  show  of  hardy  climbing  vines,  judiciously  placed  for  cover- 
ing walls  and  tree  stumps,  adorning  the  veranda  and  Summer-houses 
or  creeping  up  the  walls  of  the  house.  The  well-known  Japanese  or 
Boston  Ivy  (Ampelopsis  Veitchii)  is  a  fast  grower  and  chngs  to  wall  or 
tree,  its  leaves  turning  to  a  dark  red  in  the  Fall.  Very  satisfactory  as 
coverings  for  arbors  or  treUises  are  the  dark-  and  bright-leaved  Silver 
Vines  (Actinidia).  The  hardy  Clematis  paniculata,  with  its  wealth  of 
beautiful  foliage  and  masses  of  small,  pure  white,  fragrant  flowers 
which  cover  the  upper  portion  of  the  plant  in  early  Autumn,  is  partic- 
ularly useful  for  growing  about  the  porch  or  on  treUises.  An  excellent 
vine  for  covering  brick  or  stone  walls  and  draping  trunks  of  trees  is  the 
Climbing  Hydrangea,  H.  petiolaris,  the  value  of  which  is  not  as  gener- 
ally realized  as  it  should  be.  It  is  a  plant  of  Japanese  origin,  of  unique 
and  graceful  appearance,  especially  when  in  flower;  propagates  readily 
from  either  Summer  cuttings  or  layers,  begins  to  grow  early  in  the 
season,  and  is  rehably  hardy,  though  it  should  be  afl'orded  some  Winter 
protection  in  the  colder  sections. 

Other  vines  which  may  be  used  to  advantage  are :  Akebia  quinata, 
purpHsh  brown  flowers;  Climbing  Honeysuckles  (Loniceras),  handsome 
foHage  and  sweet-scented  flowers;  Aristolochia  sipho  (Dutchman's 
Pipe),  brownish  colored  flowers,  resembling  a  pipe;  Bignonia  (Trumpet 
Vine),  bearing  large,  trumpet-shaped,  orange-red  flowers. 

Low  Growing  and  Trailing  Shrubs  for  Various 
Purposes* 

Deciduous. 

Cotoneaster  horizontalis.    F'or  edging;  semi-evergreen. 

Daphne  Mezereum.     Flowers  light  purple,  appearing  in  early  April  before  the  leaves 

There  ia  a  white  variety.    An  erect  shrub  3  feet  high,  with  stout  branches,  which  are 

flexible  and  leathery  like  those  of  Leatherwood  (Dirca  palustris) . 
Hypericum  Buckleyi.     Forms  neat,  compact  mats.     The  earliest  of  the  Hypericums. 

Flowers  yellow,  early  July. 
Lonirera  spinn^a  [ — L.  Albertti],    Has  slender  twigs  and  narrow  linear  leaves.    Flowers 

pink,  late  May.    Plant  low,  from  1  to  2  feet  high. 


56  GARDEN  GUIDE 

Rhododendron  canadense  (Rhodora).  A  slender  shrub,  2  feet  high.  Is  good  in  a  rock 
garden  with  a  ground  cover  of  the  following  species.  Flowers  rosy  purple,  appearing 
before  the  leaves  in  late  April  and  early  May. 

Vaccinium  pennsylvanicum  (Early  Low  Blueberry).  From  6  to  12  inches  high.  Should 
make  good  dwarf  edging.    Flowers  white  in  early  May. 

Evergreen. 

Arctostaphyloa  Uva-Ursi  (Bearberry).  A  creeping,  vine-like  shrub  with  small  leaves, 
abundant  in  Canada,  forming  broad  mats  over  rocky  ledges  and  slopes.    Berries  red. 

Bryanthus  (See  Phyllodoce). 

Calluna  vulgaris  (Scotch  Heather).  Flowers  pink,  July  and  August.  There  is  a  white 
variety. 

Chimaphila  umbellata  (Prince's  Pine,  or  Pipsissewa).    Somewhat  resembles  Pachysandra. 

Cotoneaster  culpressa  and  C.  microphylla.  Resemble  C.  horizontalis,  mentioned  above, 
but  are  more  dwarf  and  evergreen.  Both  have  a  neat  habit  and  glossy  foliage.  May 
not  be  hardy  everywhere,  but  should  be  tried  for  low,  stiff  edging. 

Daphne  Cneorum  (Garland  Flower).  Dense  and  compact.  Pink  flowers  in  May. 
Excellent  for  edging.  From  6  to  12  inches  high.  Twigs  flexible  and  leathery,  as 
those  of  D.  Mesereum,  described  above. 

Dendrium  [ — Leiophyllum]  buxifolium  (Sand  Myrtle.)  A  dense  shrub,  to  3  feet  high. 
There  is  a  low,  tufted  form,  var.  prostratum.     Flowers  white  or  blush  in  May. 

Empetrum  nigrum  (Black  Crowberry). 

Erica  carnea  (Hardy  Spring  Heath.)    Pink  in  April  and  May.    From  6  to  12  inches  high. 

Gaultheria  procumbens  (Wintergreen,  or  Checkerberry.)  Red  berries.  Leaves  have  good 
flavor. 

Gaylussacia  brachycera  (Box  Huckleberry).     Very  dwarf  and  compact. 

Juniperus  Sabina  var.  tamariscifolia.    A  very  neat  Juniper  for  edging. 

Lycopodium  obscurum  (Ground  Pine).  A  native  Club  Moss  related  to  Trailing  Christmas 
Green  (L.  complanatum) ,  but  with  stems  erect  and  treelike,  to  12  inches  high. 

Mitchella  repens  (Partridge  Berry).  This  and  the  preceding  are  two  creeping,  vine- 
like plants  excellent  for  the  rock  garden.  Moneywort  has  bright  yellow  flowers  in 
June,  and  Partridge  Berry  has  handsome  red  berries  all  Winter. 

Phyllodoce  [ — Bryanthus]  coerulea  (Mountain  Heath).  A  low  alpine  shrub,  from  3  to  6 
inches  high.    Flowers  pinkish  purple,  July. 

Potentilla  tridentata.  Plant  from  4  to  8  inches  high,  forming  thick  mats.  Foliage  bronz- 
ing in  Winter.    Flowers  white.  Strawberry-like. 

Rhododendron  [ — Azalea  hinodegira.]  A  low  shrub,  better  than  R.  amcena,  leaves  large, 
and  flowers  a  brilliant  red.    Late  May  and  early  June. 

*Liot  revised  from  Curtis,  Cornell  Bulletin  361. 

Bushes  for  Wet  Places 

When  planting  grounds  it  is  often  desired  to  obtain  shrubs  for 
planting  in  wet  places,  some  that  will  attract  either  by  their  flowers, 
berries  or  other  features. 

There  is  a  shrub  which  always  comes  to  mind  when  this  subject 
is  thought  of,  Clethra  alnifoha,  because  of  the  profusion  and  fragrance 
of  its  flowers.  It  blooms  in  Midsummer  or  later,  the  bush  is  usually 
covered  with  panicles  of  white  flowers  of  pecuhar  fragrance.  In  its 
wild  state  it  is  usuafly  found  on  the  banks  of  streams,  or  otherwise  near 
water,  so  that  it  is  well  suited  when  planted  in  similar  positions.  There 
is  another  native  Clethra,  the  C.  acuminata,  but  the  alnifolia  is  the 
best  for  the  purpose. 

The  White  Fringe,  Ghionanthus  virginica,  is  at  home  in  ^  wet 
place.  It  is  wild  in  situations  which  are  almost  under  water  at  times. 
This  has  white  flowers,  too,  but  they  come  early  in  Spring  with  the 


CALENDAR  OF  GARDEN  OPERATIONS 

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CHAPTER  XXVIll 

Animal  Life  in  the  Garden 

Poultry  Possibilities — Pigeons — ^Bees — Rabbits — Larger  Animals 

TOO  many  gardeners  have  the  idea  that  all  animals  are  abomi- 
nations and  that  it  is  impossible  for  any  home  plot  to  include 
vegetable  and  flower  gardens  and  harbor  animals  or  poultry 
at  the  same  time  without  disastrous  results.  Of  course,  a  flock  of 
hungry  chickens  unrestrained  and  a  newly  planted  seedbed  are  a 
bad  combination;  likewise  a  frohcsome  puppy  can  do  inestimable 
damage  to  an  herbaceous  border.  But  handled  rightly,  a  moderate 
number  of  the  right  sort  of  creatures  can  actually  increase  the  pro- 
ductivity of  a  garden  and  prove  a  valuable  asset  of  a  suburban  or 
country  home  that  cannot  afford  to  be  overlooked  in  these  days  of 
the  high  cost  of  living  by  purchase. 

Poultry  Possibilities:  Comfortable,  weather-tight  quarters  and 
adequate,  securely  enclosed  yardage  or  range  are  essential  features 
of  modern,  successful  poultry  keeping,  no  matter  on  what  scale. 
The  waste  from  the  garden  and  the  cooked  vegetable  refuse  from  the 
house  supplement  such  conditions  with  food  material  that  is  essential 
to  perfect  health  and  maximum  production,  for  which  the  flock  pays 
in  eggs  and  in  fertilizer,  poultry  manure  being  a  very  rich,  easily 
handled  plant  food.  Moreover,  early  in  the  Spring  and  late  in  the 
Fall,  when  the  garden  is  being  spaded  or  plowed  or  the  crops  harvested, 
the  fowls  can  safely  be  permitted  to  run  over  the  newly  turned  ground 
where  they  will  do  a  tremendous  service  in  devouring  injurious  insects. 
In  this  respect  ducks,  too,  are  of  considerable  value,  especially  in 
destroying  Asparagus  and  Potato  beetles. 

Pigeons  cannot  be  accused  of  injuring  the  garden  in  any  way, 
but  on  the  contrary  they,  too,  are  a  source  of  valuable  manure,  bird 
guano  being  one  of  the  old  standbys  in  agricultural  practice,  especially 
as  a  source  of  nitrogen.  Since  they  can  be  kept  in  the  loft  of  a  barn 
or  shed,  they  need  not  even  reduce  the  space  available  for  gardening 
activities. 

Bees:  If  you  or  your  family  or  yom*  friends  are  fond  of  honey — 
the  real,  pure  thing;  if  you  enjoy  the  peaceful,  happy  sight  and  sound 
of  humming  visitors  among  the  flowers;  if  you  want  to  be  sure  of 
maximum  crops  of  tree  fruits.  Melons,  Tomatoes  and  aU  other  prod- 
ucts of  which  the  flowers  depend  entirely  or  largely  upon  insect 

346 


ANIMAL  LIFE  IN  THE  GARDEN  347 

poUenation,  and  if  you  are  interested  in  the  possibility  of  netting  a 
comfortable  sum  each  year  at  the  cost  of  an  occasional  hour  or  two 
of  pleasant,  not  difficult  or  heavy  work — then  plan  to  add  to  your 
garden  features  some  colonies  of  bees.  The  initial  expense  is  not 
heavy.  Twenty-five  dollars  will  provide  you  with  a  full  equipment 
of  tools,  a  colony  of  bees  including  a  queen,  a  completely  fitted  hive 
and  two  more  hives  to  keep  in  reserve  for  future  swarms.  It  is  not 
unusual  for  a  colony  to  double,  that  is,  to  produce  another  by  swarm- 
ing each  year,  in  addition  to  yielding  from  25  to  50  or  more  pounds 
of  honey  a  season,  depending  upon  the  weather,  etc.  The  bees  get 
their  food  from  flowers  over  a  range  of  several  miles  so  you  are  not 
required  to  feed  them  except  in  emergencies,  when  a  little  sugar 
sirup  or  surplus  honey  may  be  given  them.  As  suggested  they 
pollenate  the  blossoms  of  fruits  and  vegetables  and  insure  heavy  sets 
that  could  not  be  duplicated  even  by  extensive,  costly  hand  poUen- 
izing.  And  contrary  to  many  opinions,  they  are  quiet,  peaceable  if 
not  tormented,  easily  managed  by  one  who  knows  what  he  is  doing 
and  how  to  do  it,  and  altogether  offer  an  appropriate  and  highly 
desirable  feature  to  be  included  in  the  home  orchard  or  even  the  small 
home  garden.  More  home  gardens  should  have  their  apiaries  for  the 
sake  of  both  the  pleasure  and  the  profit  they  offer. 

Rabbits:  While  it  is  probably  true  that  many  exaggerated  and 
unfounded  claims  have  been  made  as  to  the  money  making  possi- 
bilities of  rabbit  culture,  at  the  same  time  a  few  hares,  like  a  small 
flock  of  poultry,  can  be  kept  on  the  small  place  at  small  expense  and 
Httle  trouble,  with  benefit  to  the  owner  in  several  ways.  Rabbit 
meat  is  a  real  dehcacy  and  under  home  garden  culture  conditions  can 
be  produced  very  reasonably;  rabbits  will  consume  much  of  the  waste 
green  matter  from  the  garden,  save  the  trouble  of  getting  rid  of  it,  and 
turn  it  into  dehcious  meat;  a  rabbit  hutch  and  pens  take  up  but  little 
room;  the  care  of  rabbits  is  an  interesting  task  for  the  boys  and  girls 
in  the  family;  and  surplus  stock  can  easily  be  sold,  either  in  the  market 
or  as  breeding  stock  to  others  who  want  to  take  up  the  work.  Like 
chickens,  rabbits  running  wild  can  soon  damage  garden  crops  to  a 
discouraging  extent.  But  such  results  can  easily  be  prevented  by 
foresight  and  attention. 

Larger  Animals:  As  consumers  of  waste  products  and  as  a  source 
of  valuable  manure,  pigs  are  almost  invariably  to  be  found  on  com- 
mercial truck  farms  or  ^  egetable  growing  establishments.  Whether 
conditions  (including  local  statutes)  make  it  possible  for  you  to  keep 
a  porker  or  two  on  your  home  grounds  to  serve  these  same  ends, 
you  must  decide  for  yourself.    However,  it  is  well  to  remember  that 


348  GARDEN  GUIDE 

rightly  cared  for  a  pig  is  neither  as  dirty,  odorous  or  otherwise 
offensive  as  you  might  think;  that  garden  truck  and  kitchen  garbage 
provide  a  good  ration  which  need  be  reinforced  only  by  occasional 
grain  mashes,  ear  corn,  etc.;  that  at  the  end  of  the  Summer  it  can 
be  sold  or  butchered  to  supply  a  good  part  of  the  Winter's  pork, 
ham  and  bacon;  and  that  with  barnyard  manure  selling — when 
obtainable — at  $5  or  more  per  load,  the  cleanings  of  the  pig  pen  will 
add  many  dollars  to  the  value  of  the  compost  heap  to  be  spread  on 
next  season's  garden. 

Another  farm  animal  that  can  be  brought  within  the  confines  of 
a  small  place  is  the  milk  goat.  This,  too,  will  consume  all  the  Beet 
tops,  Pea  and  Bean  vines,  waste  Cabbage  leaves,  etc.,  and  all  the 
clean,  vegetable  refuse  from  the  table.  Also  it  provides  from  one 
to  four  or  five  quarts  of  rich,  delicious  milk  per  day  for  anywhere 
from  six  or  eight  to  ten  or  even  more  months  at  a  stretch.  The  milk 
goat  is  also  a  quaint,  docile,  companionable  animal,  not  difficult  to 
care  for,  and  requiring,  not  a  wide  pasture,  but  only  a  patch  of  road- 
side or  scrubby  ground  where  it  can  be  tethered  to  browse.  In  view 
of  the  newly  proven  facts  as  to  the  essential  nature  of  milk  and  milk 
products  in  our  diet,  it  would  seem  advisable  for  more  gardeners  to 
think  about  the  addition  of  a  little  "goat  dairying"  to  their  agri- 
cultural activities. 


For  books  treating  fully  on  subjects  mentioned  in  this  chapter, 
we  recommend: 

THE  HOME  POULTRY  BOOK,  by  E.  I.  Farrington.  Here  is  just  the  book  for 
the  person  who  wants  to  keep  a  few  hens  to  supply  fresh  eggs  for  the  table.  No 
elaborate  systems  or  expensive  fixtures  are  advocated,  but  the  author  gives  specific 
information  concerning  every  phase  of  poultry  keeping.  Illustrated.  184  pages, 
bound  in  cloth.    32  full  page  illustrations.    12mo.    Price,  $1.35,  postpaid. 

PIGEON  RAISING,   by  Alice  MacLeod.     This  is  a  book  for  both  fancier  and 

market  breeder.    Full  descriptions  are  given  of  the  construction  of  houses,  the  care 

of  birds,  preparation  for  market  and  shipment  and  of  the  various  breeds  with 

their    markings    and    characteristics.     Price,    $1.35,    postpaid. 

QUIMBY'S  NEW  BEE-KEEPING,  by  L.  C.  Root.  The  mysteries  of  bee- 
keeping explained.  Combining  the  result  of  50  years'  experience  with  the  latest 
discoveries  and  inventions  and  presenting  the  most  approved  methods,  forming  a 
complete  work.  Illustrated.  271  pages.  5x7  in.  Cloth,  Price,  $l.G5,  postpaid. 
Secure  your  copies  where  you  bought  your  Garden  Guide. 


CHAPTER  XXIX 

Birds  in  the  Garden 

Best  Type  of  Bird  Houses — Feeding  the  Birds — Berry-bearing  Shrubs 

Mr.  Chas.  Livingston  Bull,  than  whom  no 

one  is  better  acquainted  with  the  birds  and 

their  habits,  furnishes  us  excellent  directions 

for  making  them  tenantable  homes,  as  follows: 

The  bluebird  and  wren  are  the  easiest  to 

satisfy  as  to  the  outward  appearance  of  the 

house;  probably  nine  out  of  ten  native  birds 

hving  in  artificial  nesting  sites  are  bluebirds. 

The  Bluebird  Almost  any  box,  if  only  it  has  a  space  at  least 

pSK\n°  bi?d  Ufe'gei     four  and  one-half  inches  high  by   the  same 

orally"  width,  and  a  length  of  seven  inches  or  more, 

^°"  BuUetii'  k^^ir""'     with  a  hole  about  one  and  one-half  inches  in 

diameter,  preferably  round,  at  the  end  and  not 

too  low  down  in  that  end,  with  some  sort  of  perch  just  below  it,  will 

please  the  bluebird.  As  to  outside  finish,  the  more  it  looks  like  some 

natural  object  the  more  sure  it  will  be  to  attract  the  Uttle  bluecoats. 

The  most  successful  bluebird  box  of  which  I  have  knowledge  was  a 

section  of  a  hollow  hmb,  in  which  a  woodpecker  had  cut  a  Uttle  round 

hole  into  the  cavity.     This  limb,  about  seven  inches  in  diameter,  had 

been  sawed  from  the  tree  and  a  section  about  two  feet  long  containing 

the  cavity,  bad  been  cut  out  and  wired  to  the  branch  of  an  old  Pear 

tree.     This  was  used  every  year  by  a  pair  of  bluebirds,  and  most  years 

two  broods  were  raised.     Think  of  the  thousands  of  fruit  worms  and 

curcuhos  and  other  insects  that  went  to  feed  the  broods  in  that  nest 

year  after  year! 

I  have  duplicated  that  nest  a  number  of  times  simply  by  cutting  a 
section  of  a  branch  or  small  trunk,  seven  or  eight  inches  thick  and  a 
foot  long,  boring  a  hole  with  an  inch  and  a  half  bit  half  way  through, 
near  one  end,  then  hollowing  out  a  chamber,  either  by  sawing  a  slab 
off  one  side,  which  is  tacked  or  wired  on  again  after  the  chamber 
(about  5x5x8)  is  hollowed  out,  or  by  sawing  a  section  for  a  cap  two 
inches  thick  from  the  end  farthest  from  the  entrance  hole  and  then 
drilling  or  turning  out  the  hollow  and  closing  the  end  with  the  cap, 
carefully  tacked  on.  This  house  should  be  hung  horizontally. 

If  a  box  is  to  be  used  as  the  foundation  of  a  bluebird  house,  cover  it 
with  bark  or  make  it  of  slabs  with  the  bark  on,  or  at  the  very  least, 

349 


350 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


The  House  Wren 

"Whose  bubbling  song  is 
such  a  joy  all  through  the 

Spring  and  Summer" 

Courtesy   U.    S.    Farmers' 

Bulletin,  No.  755 


Stain  it  a  dark  grayish  brown,  and  if  the  pro- 
portions are  right,  the  birds  will  do  their  part. 
Bluebirds  like  to  nest  rather  low.  The 
house  should  be  placed  either  on  a  pole  in  the 
garden,  about  seven  or  eight  feet  above  the 
ground,  or  on  a  tree  branch,  perhaps  a  Uttle 
higher.  The  pole  or  branch  should  be  so  slen- 
der that  a  cat  would  not  venture  to  cUmb  it, 
that  is,  not  more  than  one  and  one-half  inches 
thick;  and  if  a  pole,  preferably  some  smooth, 
hard  wood  like  a  rake  handle  or  the  thick  end 
of  a  bamboo  fish  pole. 

The  wren,  whose  bubbling  song  is  such  a 
joy  all  through  the  Spring  and  Summer,  does  not  get  here  so  early  as 
the  bluebird  and  might  easily  find  all  the  nesting  sites  occupied, 
were  it  not  for  one  thing.  His  tiny  body  will  squeeze  in  where  no 
sparrow  or  starling  or  bluebird  could  obtrude,  and  while  he  might  try 
the  bluebird  box,  the  first  pair  of  bluebirds  or  sparrows  to  come  along 
would  surely  oust  him. 

An  entrance  hole  one  inch  in  diameter  is  the  solution,  and  if  the 
interior  is  no  more  than  three  and  one-half  or  four  inches  square  by  six 
inches  long,  the  larger  bird  will  not  even  look  in  more  than  once. 

Wrens  have  been  known  to  nest  in  many  curious  places,  such  as  the 
sleeve  of  an  old  coat,  an  old  boot,  a  bomb  shell,  a  pump,  an  empty 
tomato  can,  and  perhaps  the  most  curious  of  all,  a  human  skull. 

The  great  majority  of  wrens,  however,  nest  in  a  hollow  limb  or  tree 
trunk,  and  naturally  the  bird  house  which  most  resembles  such  a  loca- 
tion will  be  the  most  likely  to  attract  these  tireless  little  bug  hunterst 
The  ideal  box  would  be  the  one  which  most  nearly  resembles  a  big  kno. 
on  the  side  of  the  tree  trunk. 

A  bluebird  does  not  seem  to  care  how 
exposed  the  house  may  be  to  the  sun,  in  fact, 
he  rather  likes  an  open  situation,  but  I  have 
yet  to  see  a  wren's  nest  where  the  entrance 
was  not  well  shaded,  so,  to  guard  against  the 
gardener,  who  might  not  know  this  pecuharity 
of  the  cunning  httle  brown  fellow,  the  bird 
house  man  should  provide  a  good  overhang  to 
the  roof  of  the  wren  house,  also  a  Httle  perch  ^.     „  . . 

11  1  11  11  The  Robin 

just  below  that  entrance  hole  and  be  sure      "How  cheery  his  song  at 
once  more  that  same  entrance  hole  is  round      J^   ^^^^  p^^p   °^  ^*^" 

1  .,  •      T_    •       J-  X  A         Courtesy    Natl    Ass  n    of 

and  no  more  than  an  mch  m  diameter.    A  Audubon  Societies 


BIRDS  IN  THE  GARDEN 


351 


couple  of  designs  for   bird   houses  which  have  been  successful  are 
shown  on  this  and  following  pages. 

Writing  of  the  robin,  Mr.  Bull  continues: 

How  cheery  is  his  morning  song  just  at  the  first  peep  of  day.   And 
how  sweet  his  long  evening  song  which  he  keeps  up  till 
long  after  sunset.    And  how  weatherwise  he  is. 

When  he  flies  up  to  the  topmost  branch  of  his  pet  tree 
and  calls  his  "twill-rain!"   "twill-rain!" 
you  may  be  very  sure  the  garden  will  be 
sprinkled  without  overworking  the  water 
meter.    How  fat  and  cheerful  he  looks  as 
he  hops  over  the  lawn;  stopping  now  and 
again  to  yank  out  a  great  fat  worm,  pos- 
sibly as  long  as  himself.    He  will  be  glad 
to  nest  in  your  garden  and  if  you  have  a 
large  tree  he  will  usually  nest  in  that,  but 
so  many  trees  have  no  suitable  forks. 
He  would  be  most  pleased  to 
nest  on  a  shelf  under  the  eaves 
of  your  house,  but  so  many 
houses  have  no  shelf  there .    Or 
under  the  porch  roof,   if  he 
could  find  a  good  place.    But 
most  houses  are  so  built  that 
there  is  no  suitable  location 
for  him,  and  so  there  have  been  many  attempts  to 
construct  locations  which  might  attract  him. 

He  will  not  enter  a  hole.  No  box  or  house  for 
him !  It  must  be  in  the  form  of  a  shelf,  preferably 
with  a  cover.  It  must  be  open  on  at  least  two 
sides  and  should  have  a  low,  raised  rim  around  the 
edge  to  keep  the  nest  from  being  blown  or  washed 
off.  It  should  have  a  roof,  too,  for  while  the 
great  majority  of  robin  nests  are  in  trees,  and  in 
rather  open  situations  at  that,  when  they  can  find 
a  good  situation  on  a  house  it  will  nearly  always 
be  under  some  sort  of  overhang. 

The  shelf  might  be  hung  right  on  the  side  of 
the  house,  preferably  on  the  east  or  west  side, 
not  on  the  south  unless  the  location  is  partially  shaded.  It  should 
hang  so  rigidly  that  no  severe  wind  will  swing  it  too  hard,  prefer- 
ably by  two  screw  eyes.  The  roof  should  have  enough  pitch  and 
overhang  so  as  to  shed  most  of  the  rain  and  yet  not  too  much. 


A  serviceable  bluebird 
house.  Make  box  as 
shown  in  sketch,  pre- 
ferably of  slab  wood, 
especially  top.  If  im- 
possible to  secure  wood 
with  bark  attached, 
stain  dark  grayish 
brown.  Box  is  fast- 
ened to  pole  by  strip 
of  sheet  iron  screwed 
on  back  of  box  and 
screwed  to  pole 


352  GARDEN  GUIDE 

7  I  have  never  seen  a  robin's  nest  less 

P  than  8  feet  above  the  ground  and  usually 
hey  are  much  higher;  so  hang  it  fairly 

i  ligh,   beside  or  under  a  second-story 

<  window  would  be  a  good  place;  and,  if 

-  _, .  -J  there  are  vines,  so  much  the  better.    If 

"'"^'^"^"^^  it  must  be  in  the  garden,  then  put  it  on 

The  Junco,  or  Snowbird  ^  ^  ^^^^  10  feet  from  the  ground  or  on  a 

"Leaden  skies  above;  snow  below"  polc  among  the  twigs  and  leavcs  of  some 

Courtesy  U.  S.^ Farmers'  Bulletin.        shrub  OF  bush  10  feet  high.      The  mOSt 

successful  robin  shelves  are  those  7 
inches  square  with  a  rim  1  inch  high  and  3^^  inch  wide  around  the  open 
sides,  making  an  inside  measurement  of  6  inches  square.  The  back 
and  one  side  closed;  the  whole  stained  brownish  gray  or  to  match  the 
side  of  the  house  where  it  is  to  hang.  The  roof  is  preferably  a  piece  of 
wood  with  the  bark  on  and  should  be  4  inches  above  the  platform  at 
the  lowest  point  and  should  have  an  overhang  of  about  2  inches. 

The  same  thing  is  right  for  the  cat-bird,  but  the  location  should  be 
entirely  different.  Cat-birds  always  nest  close  to  the  ground  (from  2 
feet  to  6  feet)  and  in  the  heart  of  the  densest  brush  they  can  find.  The 
center  of  your  biggest  Rambler  Rose  is  your  best  location,  or  deep  in  a 
close  growing  evergreen:  Cedar,  Retinispora,  clipped  Spruce  or  Hem- 
lock or  some  similar  growth.  I  found  a  big  thorny  Barberry  bush  in  a 
clump  of  other  shrubs  a  good  place,  when  I  tied  five  or  six  branches 
together  above  the  little  platform  to  hide  it  thoroughly. 

One  of  the  most  valuable  birds  we  can  have  about  our  homes  is  the 
phoebe.  He  belongs  to  the  family  of  flycatchers,  and  well  justifies  the 
name  for  he  spends  the  entire  day  watching  from  a  twig  and  flying  out 
and  snapping  up  every  fly,  mosquito  or  moth  that  passes,  and  will  pick 
off  every  little  leaf  or  fruit  worm  that  his  keen  eyes  may  note. 

His  note  "phoebe,  phoebe,"  is  not  as  musical  as  the  elaborate  and 
varied  assortment  the  cat-bird  will  regale  one  with;  but  it  is  cheery  and 
alert,  and,  when  one  thinks  of  the  vast  number  of  insect  pests,  he  is 
destroying  hourly,  it  is  a  most  welcome  note  indeed. 

The  phoebe  is  not  as  common  as  we  might  wish,  but  if  your  garden 
is  fairly  large  and  the  houses  are  not  too  close  together,  a  pair  will 
doubtless  look  you  over  this  Spring,  and  if  you  have  the  right  sort  of 
place  ready,  may  stay  with  you. 

The  favorite  location  for  the  phoebe  is  under  a  bridge  or  on  a  shelf 
of  rock  under  a  ledge,  or  a  beam  under  an  open  shed,  or  similar  loca- 
tion; preferably  near  water,  though  not  necessarily  so.  They  like 
plenty  of  room,  and  a  good  cover.  The  shelf  should  be  6  inches  wide 
and  at  least  12  inches  long,  open  at  ends  and  with  roof  5  in.   above 


BIRDS  IN  THE  GARDEN 


353 


at  the  front  and  6  inches  or  7  inches  at  the  back  and  an  overhang  of 
at  least  3  inches.    A  perch  is  not  necessary. 

They  are  rather  particular  Uttle  fellows;  for  example,  it  is  of  little 
use  to  hang  such  a  shelf  on  a  house  painted  a  light  or  bright  color  for 
they  will  not  be  interested. 
They  will  have  nothing  to 
do  with  anything  on  a  pole. 
There  must  be  the  sugges- 
tion of  the  big  wall  of  rock 
and  the  protected  ledge,  so 
if  you  can,  hang  the  shelf 
under  the  eaves  or  under  an 
open  porch,  not  more  than 
one  story  from  the  ground. 
No  high  places  for  them, 
but  it  should  be  7  feet  or  8 
feet  from  the  porch  floor  or 
ground,  at  least.  If  you 
are  so  fortunate  as  to  have 
a  pair  of  phoebes  nest  on 
your  house,  you  will  be  well 
repaid  for  the  trouble  of 
putting  up  the  httle  shelf 
and  be  sure  that  it  is  some 
dark  color,  brownish  or 
grayish,  or  you  will  have 
your  trouble  for  nothing. 

To  make  the  birds  per- 
fectly at  home  we  must 
provide  a  bird  bath  or  drink- 
ing basin.  For  this  purpose 
any  low  bowl  can  be  used  in 
which  the  water  is  not  too 
deep,  for  it  would  appear 
that  some  birds  fear  too 
deep  water.  If  the  bowl 
is  deep,  fill  in  with  clean 
pebbles  or  cement,  or  very 

attractive  baths  may  be  procured  from  some  of  the  seed  and  florist 
firms.  These  pedestals  and  bowls  furnish  an  excellent  ornament  to 
the  garden  as  well. 

A  suggestion  for  making  the  bath  more  attract-ve  is  to  plant  an 
imibrella  plant  in  a  small  pot  and  place  it  at  the  side.   A  smgjl  quantity 


Wren  House — Simply  a  square  box  <5  in.),  all 
dimensions  inside  measurement,  with  slab 
covering,  flat  on  back,  but  Sin.  overhang  in  front 
and  lin.  at  sides.  One  inch  hole  at  center  of 
front;  Sin.  perch.  We  have  shown  this  box  on 
pole  but  it  could  be  hung  fron^  screw  eye. 


354 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


1 


of  Colomba  and  Parrot's  Feather  (Myriophyl        ^ 
lum)  might  also  be  included  and  so  placed  that     ^J^ 
the  pot  will  be  entirely  hidden.  ^ 

I  have  divided  the  birds  into  four  distinc 
live  groups,  as  follows: 

No.  1. — Suet  Group: 
Chickadee 
Tufted  Titmouse 
White-breasted  nuthatch 
Red-breasted  nuthatch 
Downy  woodpecker 
Hairy  woodpecker 
Red-beUied  woodpecker 
Flicker 
Blue  jay 
Oregon  "jay 
Whiskey  jack 
Crow 

Clarks  crow 
Brown  creeper 
Myrtle  warbler 
Rose-breasted  grosbeak 
Hermit  thrush 
Winter  wren 
House  wren 
Starling 
Screech  owl 


Song  Sparrow 

"One  of  the  most  ad- 
mirable and  delightiul 
r-,,  ..  J  of  American  songsters  ' 

these  birds  Courtesy   U    S.  Farm' 

also  eat       •         ers'  Bulletin,  No.  630 

Sunflower 
seed 
Squash 
seed 
Meat 
Fat  pork 
Crumbs 
Dog  biscuit 
Walnuts 
Butternuts 
Unroasted  peanuts 
Other  oily  nuts 

A  few  of  these  birds  will  also  eat 
cracked  corn  and  oats. 


No.  2. — Seed  Group: 
Junco 

Tree  sparrow.    Song  Sparrow 
White-throated  sparrow 
White  crowned  sparrow 
Foxsparrow.    Cardinal  goldfinch 
Redpoll.    Snow  bunting 
Evening  grosbeak 
Pine-grosbeak.    Purple  finch 
Gray-crowned  rosy  finch 
Other  finches  and  sparrows 

No.  3. — Grain  Group: 
Ruffed  grouse 
Quail 
Partridge 
Pheasant 
Lapland  longspur 
Shore  lark 

No.  4. — Fruit: 
Robin 

Mocking  bird 
Catbird  and  most  other  thrushes 


These  birds  also  eat  almost  any 
kind  of  small  seeds  or  cracked  grains, 
such  as  bird  seed,  millet,  etc., 
crumbs,  bread,  crackers,  dog  bis- 
cuit, etc. 

A  few  of  this  group  will  also  eat  a 
little  suet,  or  will  pick  at  a  bone 
with  a  httle  meat  or  fat  adhering, 
but  their  normal  food  is  vegetable. 

Any  kind  of  grain  as: 
Oats 
Wheat 
Rye 
Barley 
Buckwheat 
Cracked  com 

This  is  a  Southern  group.  Will 
eat  oranges,  figs,  grapes  and  almost 
any  other  fresh  fruit,  also,  some- 
times, bread  and  milk. 


BIRDS  IN  THE  GARDEN  355 

BERRY-BEARING  SHRUBS,  VINES  AND  TREES  FOR  THE 

BIRDS 

Another  way,  and  a  very  effective  one  of  attracting  birds,  is  to 
plant  berry-bearing  shrubs,  trees  and  vines.  The  robins,  starlings, 
thrushes,  cedar  birds,  mocking  birds,  in  fact  most  so-called  soft  billed 
birds,  will  eat  berries,  and  some  of  the  finches  and  sparrows  will  pick 
them  open  to  get  at  the  seeds. 

Many  of  the  migrating  birds  will  stay  about  a  place,  where  there 
is  an  abundance  of  berry-bearers  and  an  allowance  of  suet  and  seeds, 
much  later  than  they  ordinarily  would  stay. 

For  example  here  in  Northern  Jersey  as  I  write  this  in  the  la^t  of 
October,  there  are  great  flocks  of  robins  and  thrushes  hurrying  to  cull 
the  very  last  of  my  Mountain  Ash  and  Dogwood  berries,  before  they  go 
away  South. 

Last  year  one  robin  stayed  with  us  all  Winter  eating  the  Japanese 
Barberries.  There  is  also  a  pair  of  chewinks  still  here,  while  back  in 
the  woods  they  have  been  gone  for  at  least  three  weeks.  I  should 
head  the  list  of  berry-bearers  with  such  trees  as  the  Mountain  Ash, 
Dogwood,  various  wild  Cherries  and  Cedars,  Jimipers,  and  other  berry- 
bearing  evergreens.  These  are  especially  beloved  by  the  birds.  A 
list  of  shrubs  should  include  the  shrubby  Dogwoods,  such  as  the  Cor- 
nelian Cherry,  Red  Oiser,  etc.;  many  of  the  Viburnums,  and  Ilexes, 
all  the  Vacciniums  (that  is.  Blueberries,  Cranberries  and  Deerberries) 
some  of  the  Loniceras  and  Crataegus  or  Hawthorns,  Aronias,  Calli- 
carpa,  Enkianthus,  Ribes,  Rubus,  Sambucus,  Phillyrea,  Amelanchier 
and  Symphoricarpus,  and  be  sure  and  save  a  shady  nook  for  a  clump 
of  Mahonia  and  Cotoneaster.  Last  but  not  least  we  put  the  Bar- 
berries, for  the  reason  that  the  birds  will  eat  everything  else  first. 
Then  when  all  the  rest  of  the  berries  are  gone  they  will  settle  down  to 
the  sour,  bitter  berries  of  Berberis  Thunbergii.  Berberis  vulgaris  is 
also  very  good,  but  the  birds  will  eat  its  fruit  earlier  for  the  clear,  sour 
flavor  (which  our  grandmothers  found  so  good  in  jam  making)  is 
pleasant  to  the  robins'  palate,  so,  let  me  repeat,  be  sure  to  have  a  clump 
or  hedge  of  Thunbergii,  for  the  cold  January  and  February  days 
when  all  the  other  sweeter  fruits  are  gone  and  the  Cedar  birds  will 
stay  with  you  till  the  hosts  appear  from  the  South  in  March,  April 
and  May. 

There  are  also  a  few  vines  which  will  repay  planting  for  the  birds. 
Notably  Actinidias,  Lycemn  and  the  berry-bearing  Loniceras. 

All  these  trees,  shrubs  and  vines  are  not  only  useful  as  bird  food 
but  have  decorative  value  as  well.  Not  nearly  enough  people  realize 
the  great  beauty  df  berry-bearers  in  Winter.  The  warm  oranges,  reds, 


356 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


bright  blues  and  clear  blacks  of  the  diiFerent 
fruits  are  most  attractive  and  especially  if 
there  are  evergreens  with  which  to  contrast 
them,  their  decorative  value  has  only  to  be 
seen  to  be  appreciated. 

The  birds  will  find  the  evergreens,  espe- 
cially the  dense,  close  growing  Cedars,  Arbor 
Vitaes  and  Retinisporas  extremely  welcome  as 
roosting  places  on  long,  cold  Winter  nights, 
as  I  have  repeatedly,  observed,  every  one  of 
my  cedars  having  its  cozy  feathered  tenants. 

I  will  never  forget  the  night  I  saw,  just 
at  dusk,  a  Pine-grosbeak  creep  into  one  of  my  Junipeis,  the  only  one 
of  that  species  I  have  ever  seen.  Or  that  other  February  afternoon 
when  in  a  little  flock  of  cedar  birds  eating  Rarberries,  I  suddenly 
realized  that  one  was  twice  as  large  as  any  of  the  rest  and  had  two 
white  bars  on  each  wing  and  I  knew  I  was  watching  a  Rohemian 
wax  wing,  that  rare  wanderer  over  the  face  of  the  world.  I  am  sure  he 
found  a  sufficient  supper,  rather  bitter  to  be  sure,  but  warming,  and  a 
dense  Arbor  Vitae  hedge  kept  him  warm  and  sale  for  one  night  at  least. 


Black-capped  Chickadee 

"Any    side    up,      without 

care,  is  the  label  he  bears" 

Courtesy   U.   S.     Farmers' 

Bulletin,  No.  630 


Readers  interested  in  the  study  of  birds  can  obtain  descriptive 
leaflets,  including  colored  plates  and  an  outline,  concerning  over  a  hun- 
dred birds,  from  the  National  Association  of  Audubon  Societies,  1974 
Broadway,  New  York  City,  for  the  nominal  sum  of  three  cents  each 
(no  order  for  less  than  fifteen  cents);  also  useful  bird  study  books,  etc. 


For  a  complete  work  on  the  subject  of  this 

chapter  we  recommend 

BIRD  NEIGHBORS,  by  Nellie  Blanchan.       Excellent  plates  of  birds  in 

natural  colors  make  possible  the  identification  of    many  birds  even  by  the 

unpracticed  eye.     234  pages.     Price,  $3.65  postpaid.       Secure  your  copies 

where  you  bought  your  Garden  Guide. 


Always  consult  Index  to  Contents.    Familiarize  yourself  with  it.    There 

are  hundreds  of  good  things  in  this  book  that  will  escape  your  attention  if 

you  do  not  use  the  Index  freely. 


CHAPTER  XXX 

Fruits  and  Vegetables  for  Winter 

GaDning  Fruits  and  Vegetables — Methods  of  Canning — Scalding, 
Blanching  and  Cold-Dipping — Sterilization — Equipment — ^Jars, 
Tin  Cans  and  Rubbers — Sirups — Flat  Sour — Treatment  After 
Canning — Preservative  Powder — Short  Instructions  for  Canning 
Vegetables  and  Fruit — Recipes — Time  Table  for  Scalding, 
Blanching  and  Sterilizing  Vegetables  and  Fruits 

THE  products  of  our  own  garden  always  taste  better  than  fruit  which 
has  been  prepared  in  the  commercial  establishments.  We  have 
grown  the  material;  it  is  ours  and  we  like  it. 

Canning  Fruits  and  Vegetables 

Science  always  tells  us  why  we  do  a  thing,  and  it  is  only  by  a  knowledge 
of  why  we  do  things  that  we  get  so  that  we  can  apply  the  art  of  doing 
one  thing  to  the  art  of  doing  another.  As  early  as  the  seventeenth  century, 
persons  began  to  know  that  it  was  very  minute  plants  and  animals  which 
caused  the  spoiling  of  fruits.  These  organisms  induce  fermentation  and 
putrefaction,  and  are  of  immense  importance.  They  are  of  three  groups: 
First,  molds,  which  appear  as  a  white,  green  or  black  furry  growth;  they 
are  often  present  on  the  vegetables  at  the  time  we  can  them.  Secondly, 
we  have  the  yeasts,  which  are  familiar  to  every  housewife  who  makes 
bread.  These  Kttle  "plants"  are  invisible  to  the  naked  eye  and  seem  to 
like  to  get  into  all  substances  which  contain  sugar.  They  are  not  usually 
there  very  long  before  they  cause  the  substances  to  become  sour,  the 
next  stage  being  the  production  of  alcohol.  The  air  is  full  of  yeast,  and 
it  is  almost  always  found  on  ripe  fruit.  The  third  class  consists  of  bacteria. 
When  we  reahze  that  sometimes  fifteen  thousand  of  these  pesky  little 
things  can  be  placed  end  to  end  in  an  inch,  we  wonder  how  they  can  do 
so  much  damage,  but  they  are  the  hardest  foes  of  canning  we  have  to 
fight. 

Every  utensil  which  the  housekeeper  uses,  and  every  vegetable  and 
all  the  sugar  and  the  water,  contain  some  form  of  mold,  yeast  or  bacteria. 
Our  problem  then  is  to  take  all  possible  care  that  each  of  our  three  enemies 
is  conquered. 

For  absolute  cleanliness  the  soil  must  be  carefully  washed  from  the 
fruit;  over-ripe  fruit  should  never  be  used;  bruised  and  cracked  fruit 
should  be  avoided,  for  it  is  in  the  bruises  and  cracks  that  the  yeast  and  molds 
are  very  prevalent.  All  jars  and  containers  must  be  thoroughly  scalded 
with  boiling  water. 

The  discussion  of  canning  procedure  set  forth  in  these  pages  relates 
almost  entirely  to  the  one-period  so-called  cold-pack  method  and,  together 
with  the  recipes,  is  based  largely  upon  descriptions  and  directions  contained 
in  Farmers'  Bulletin  839  and  Form  NR-24  of  the  Co-operative  Extension  Work 
in  Agriculture  and  Home  Economics  (O.  H.  Benson,  U.  S.  Department  of 
Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C),  and  the  Cornell  Reading  Course  for  the 
Farm    Home   (Cornell  University,   Ithaca,   N.   Y.)     By    the  one-period 

367 


358  GARDEN  GUIDE 

method  adopted  for  use  in  the  home  canning-club  work  of  the  U.  S. 
Department  of  Agriculture  in  the  Northern  and  Western  States  it  has 
been  found  a  relatively  simple  matter  to  can  practically  any  food  product 
in  the  home  with  ordinary  kitchen  equipment  and  with  the  expenditure 
of  comparatively  little  labor. 

Methods  of   Canning 

An  important  factor  in  the  development  of  home  canning  work  has 
been  the  great  success  of  the  Department  of  Agriculture  in  its  experi- 
ments with  the  one-period  method,  by  which  the  uncooked  or 
partly  cooked  fruit  or  vegetable  is  packed  in  a  jar  or  can  and  covered  with 
water,  sirup  or  juice,  both  jar  and  its  contents  being  then  sterilized  by 
hot  water  or  steam-  This  is  now  the  most  popular  method  in  use  by 
housekeepers,  because  of  its  simpUcity,  rapidity  and  certainty.  The 
product  thus  preserved  retains  much  of  its  natural  beauty  and  flavor. 

By  the  open-kettle  method  the  food  to  be  canned  is  completely  cooked 
in  a  kettle  and  then  poured  into  the  jar  and  sealed.  The  jars,  rubbers  and 
all  utensils  must  be  sterlized  by  boiling  for  20  minutes  before  the  jars 
are  filled,  otherwise  there  is  danger  that  the  food  will  be  reinfected  and  spoil 
after  the  sealing.  By  many  this  method  is  preferred  for  canning  Straw- 
berries and  Tomatoes;  it  is  also  recommended  for  Beets,  because  the  skins 
can  be  easily  removed  after  the  cooking  and  less  color  is  lost. 

Scalding,  Blanching  and  Cold-Dipping 

Scalding  means  placing  the  product  in  a  cheese  cloth  bag  or  dipping 
basket  and  merely  dipping  it  into  boiling  water,  the  object  being  chiefly  to 
remove  skins  of  certain  fruits  and  vegetables,  as  in  the  cases  of  Peaches, 
Tomatoes  or  Carrots. 

Blanching  carries  with  it  the  meaning  of  aUowing  the  product  to 
remain  a  much  longer  period  (1  to  15  minutes,  according  to  kind)  in  the 
hot  water,  which  serves  to  remove  dirt  and  organisms,  to  insure  a  close 
pack  by  reducing  the  bulk  of  greens  and  increasing  the  flexibility  of  such 
vegetables  as  String  Beans  and  Asparagus,  to  ehminate  objectionable  acids 
and  acrid  flavors  and,  in  conjunction  with  the  cold-dip,  to  set  the  color. 
Greens  and  green  vegetables  are  most  satisfactorily  blanched  in  steam 

The  cold-dip  means  the  quick  chilling  of  the  outside  of  the  blanched 
vegetable  or  fruit.  Take  it  sharply  from  the  hot  water  or  live  steam 
plunge  it  into  cold,  clean  water,  and  immediately  remove  and  drain  it  for  a 
few  seconds.  This  permits  the  removal  of  the  skin  without  injury  to  the 
pulp,  coagulates  and  preserves  the  coloring  matter  and  facilitates  the 
handling  of  the  product  in  packing. 

Sterilization 

Complete  steriKzation  of  the  food  and  can  is  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant requirements  in  connection  with  the  successful  preservation  of  food 
by  canning,  as  it  means  the  eliminating  of  all  the  live  molds,  yeasts  and 
bacteria.  When  blanching  and  cold-dipping  are  followed  by  a  single 
or  continuous  period  of  sterilization,  it  is  claimed  by  experts  that  the 
success  of  canning  most  vegetables  is  just  as  sure  as  though  the  inter- 
mittent method — three  periods  for  three  successive  days — were  used.  By 
this  one-period  method  the  risk  of  overcooking  the  product  is  obviated 
and,  besides,  it  is  more  natural  in  color,  flavor  and  texture. 

The  cooking  of  canned  foods  for  a  given  time  on  each  of  three  succes- 
sive days  is  called  the  intermittent  process,  and  some  canners  advocate 


FRUITS  AND  VEGETABLES  FOR  WINTER  359 

its  use  for  certain  non-acid  vegetables,  but  equally  satisfactory  results 
are  accomplished  by  the  one-period  method,  which  has  the^  additional 
advantage  that  it  saves  labor  and  expense. 

Equipment 

The  housewife  can  do  home  canning  successfully  by  using  only  such 
equipment  as 'may  be  already  on  hand.  When  canning  is  done  by  the 
cold-pack  method  the  first  and  most  essential  requisite  is  a  hot-water 
bath,  in  which  the  cans  of  food  may  be  boiled  or  sterilized.  An  ordinary 
wash  boiler  can  be  easily  converted  into  an  efficient  home  canner  by 
fitting  it  with  a  false  bottom  made  of  slats,  with  lifting  handles.  Then 
there  will  also  be  needed  a  suitedble  table,  paring  and  coring  knives,  a 
thermometer,  a  few  yards  of  cheesecloth,  a  wire  dipping  basket,  wiping 
cloths,  an  abundance  of  clean  hot  and  cold  water,  a  duplex  fork  for  lifting 
hot  jars,  a  watch  or  clock  to  check  schedule  times,  and  a  good  stove  or 
other  heating  device.  Other  types  of  canners  now  on  the  market  are 
steam  cookers,  water-seal  outfits,  and  steam-pressure  outfits,  but  ^  the 
home  made  hot-water  receptacle  described  above  will  meet  the  necessities 
of  most  individual  housekeepers. 

Jars,  Tin  Cans  and  Rubbers 

Large-mouthed  glass  jars  should  be  used  for  canning.  Of  many 
kinds  on  the  market,  the  types  that  seem  %o  be  most  generally  favored  are 
those  with  glass  covers  clamped  on  with  some  metal  device,  those  with 
screw  metal  tops  and  those  with  suction  seal  tops.  AU  jars  should  be 
carefully  tested,  washed  and  placed  in  a  pan  of  cool  water  on  a  stove  to 
heat,  keeping  them  there  until  needed  for  packing.  Testing  may  be  per- 
formed by  partly  filling  the  jar  with  boiling  water,  adjusting  the  rubber 
and  the  cover,  and  sealing  and  inverting  the  jar.  If  there  is  a  leakage, 
determine  the  cause,  and  if  the  defect  cannot  be  remedied  reserve  the 
jar  for  some  other  purpose. 

Crockery  jars  with  rubber  top  and  clamp  spring  adjustment  for 
sealing  hermetically  are  also  used  for  canning.  Packs  in  crockery  jars  of 
more  than  one  quart  size  need  an  increased  period  of  sterilization  of  10  to 
20  per  cent,  over  glass  jars  of  the  same  size. 

Plain  tin  cans  may  be  successfully  used  for  packing  most  foodstuffs, 
but  greens.  Beets,  Strawberries,  Cherries,  Pumpkin  and  Squash  should  be 
put  up  in  enameled  cans,  as  the  enamel  prevents  chemical  action  of  the 
products  on  the  tin  coating  of  the  container. 

Care  should  be  given  to  the  selection  of  good  elastic  rubber  rings.  New 
rubbers  are  required  each  year,  as  they  seldom  stand  using  a  second  season. 

Sirups 

In  canning  fruits  the  thickness  of  the  sirup  employed  depends  upon 
the  kind  of  fruit  and  the  sweetness  desired.  For  ordinary  use  sugar  and 
water  may  be  combined  by  boiling  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved  in  the 
following  proportions: 

Thin  sirup  (20  to  30  per  cent,  density) :  8  cupfiils  of  water  and  3^ 
ciipfuls  of  sugar.  Used  for  Apples,  Pears,  Baspberries  and  other  sweet 
berries. 

Medium  sirup  (30  to  40  per  cent,  density) ;  8  cupfuls  of  water  and  5^ 
cupfuls  of  sugar.  Used  for  such  fruits  as  Currants,  Blackberries,  Dew- 
berries, Baspberries,  Sweet  Plums  and  Sweet  Cherries. 


360  GARDEN  GUIDE 

Thick  sirup  (50  to  55  per  cent,  density):  8  cupfuls  of  water  and  10 
cupfuls  of  sugar.     Used  for  Cherries,  Pineapples  Apricots  and  Peaches. 

Flat  Sour 

There  should  be  no  delay  at  any  stage  of  the  canning  process,  other- 
wise what  is  known  by  canners  as  "flat  sour'  is  liable  to  develop,  especially 
in  canned  Peas,  Corn,  Beans  and  Asparagus.  This  is  a  condition  in  which 
the  taste  and  the  odor  are  so  disagreeable  as  to  necessitate  the  destroying  of 
the  product.  The  demger  may  be  minimized  by  using  product  which 
has  not  been  gathered  more  than  five  or  six  hours,  blanching,  cold-dipping 
and  packing  one  jar  at  a  time  and  placing  each  jar  in  the  canner  as  it  is 
packed.  If  a  steam-pressure  canner  is  used,  do  not  clamp  down  the 
covers  until  the  retort  is  fiUed. 

Treatment  after  Canning 

Before  storing  canned  food  set  it  aside  for  two  or  three  days  and  then 
test  as  follows:  Loosen  the  clamp  and  grasp  the  jar  by  the  edges  of  the 
glass  top.  If  the  can  leaks,  or  if  decomposition  has  set  in,  the  top  will 
come  off.  If  the  top  stays  on,  tighten  the  clamp  again  and  the  food  is 
ready  for  storage.  If  the  top  comes  off,  reject  that  can.  Red  fruits  and 
vegetables  should  be  stored  in  a  dark  place,  as  light  destroys  the  color. 

Preservative  Powder 

Preservative  powder  should  not  be  used.  Small  doses  are  not 
immediately  harmful  to  the  healthy  adult,  but  for  children  and  invalids,  or 
in  larger  doses,  the  effects  are  dangerous  and,  for  these  reasons,  although 
these  powders  prevent  spoiling,  they  should  not  be  employed. 

Short  Instructions  for  Canning  Vegetables 

Select  vegetables  that  are  young,  sound  and  clean,  and  use  as  soon 
as  possible  after  they  have  been  gathered.  Peas,  Beans,  Corn  and  Aspara- 
gus, which  lose  their  flavor  rapidly,  should  be  canned  within  five  or  six 
hours  after  picking. 

Grade  the  vegetables  and  make  the  contents  of  each  jar  as  nearly 
uniform  in  size  as  possible. 

Do  not  attempt  to  handle  too  large  a  quantity  of  vegetables  at  once, 
especially  in  hot  weather. 

Blanch  or  scald  the  vegetables  by  plunging  into  boiling  water,  allow- 
ing them  to  remain  long  enough  to  make  the  vegetables  sufficiently  flexible 
to  pack  easily,  or  to  loosen  the  skins  so  that  they  can  be  readily  peeled  or 
scraped  ofi". 

As  soon  as  taken  from  the  boiling  water  dip  the  product  into  cold, 
clean  water  and  unmediately  remove  and  drain.  The  vegetables  should 
not  be  cooled  thoroughly  by  this  cold  immersion. 

Pack  the  vegetables  firmly  into  tested  hot  jars  to  within  one-half  inch 
of  the  top  and  fill  with  boiling  water  to  within  one-cjuarter  inch  of  the  top. 
Add  salt  for  seasoning.  The  addition  of  a  small  amount  of  sugar  improves 
some  vegetables.  The  new  rubbers  are  put  into  place  and  the  heated 
covers  adjusted  and  partly  sealed. 

Place  the  containers  in  the  hot-water  bath  and  sterilize  for  the  required 
length  of  time  (see  time  table).  The  boiling  water  should  cover  the  tops 
of  the  jars  to  the  depth  of  about  one  inch.  Keep  the  water  boiling  diu-ing 
the  sterilizing  process.  Begin  to  time  the  sterilizing  when  the  water  boils 
over  the  jars. 


FRUITS  AND  VEGETABLES  FOR  WINTER 


361 


Immediately  after  the  sterilizing  period  is  ended,  remove  the  jars,  seal 
them  promptly,  place  them  on  a  tray  upside  down  to  cool,  and  carefully 
examine  for  leaks. 

The  canning  being  now  completed,  wash  the  jars,  label  and  store 
them. 

Instructions  for  Canning  Fruit 

With  very  few  exceptions,  the  directions  for  canning  fruit  by  the  one- 
period  method  are  similar  to  those  given  above  for  canning  vegetables.  Well- 
grown,  firm  and  not  overripe  fruit  should  be  chosen  and  all  blemishes  or 
decayed  parts  removed.  Cherries,  berries  and  Plums  do  not  need  blanch- 
ing. Fill  the  jars  with  the  boiling  sirup  to  within  one-quarter  inch  of  the 
top.  To  prevent  loss  of  color,  store  red  fruits  in  a  dark  place.  When 
there  is  not  enough  product  to  fill  the  last  jar,  fill  it  up  with  liquid  and 
treat  it  in  the  same  way  as  those  which  are  fuUy  packed.  The  fruit  will 
keep  just  as  well. 

Recipes.     One-Period  Method 

A  time  table  for  scalding,  blanching  and  sterilizing  vegetables  and 
fruits  appears  on  page  S64. 
VEGETABLES 

Tomatoes. — Scald  iK  minutes  or  until 
skins  loosen.  Cold-dip.  Remove  stems  and 
cores.  Pack  directly  into  cans  or  hot  jars. 
Press  down  with  tablespoon  (add  no  water). 
Add  level  teaspoonful  salt  per  quart,  and 
sugar  if  desired.  Put  rubbers  and  caps  of 
jars  into  position,  partially  seal,  but  not 
tight.  Seal  tin  cans  completely.  Sterilize 
in  hot  water  bath,  22  minutes;  water-seal 
outfit,  18  min.;  5  lbs.  steam  pressure,  15 
min.;  10  lbs  steam  pressure,  10  min. 

If  the  open-kettle  system  is  used,  sterilize 
the  jars  and  the  covers  by  boiling  them  for 
20  minutes.  Immerse  the  rubbers  in  boil- 
ing water  for  about  5  min.  Add  salt  (and 
sugar  if  desired)  to  the  Tomatoes  as  in  the 
cold-pack  method.  The  Tomatoes  will 
make  their  own  juice  as  they  become  heated; 
therefore  add  no  water.  Boil  for  from 
6  to  10  min.;  the  longer  period  may  be 
required  for  large  Tomatoes,  which  should 
be  turned  during  the  cooking.  Fix  the  rub- 
bers and  with  sterilized  spoons  ladle  the 
boiling  Tomatoes  into  the  jars,  filling  them 
to  overflowing  with  the  boiling  juice.  Ad- 
just the  sterilized  tops  immediately  and 
seal  the  jars.  Invert  the  jars  to  cool,  avoid 
ing  a  draft  on  them. 

Sweet  Corn. — Can  the  same  day  as 
picked.  Remove  husks  and  silk.  Blanch 
on  the  cob  in  boihng  hot  water  5  to  15  min. 
Plunge  quickly  in  cold  water.  Cut  the  corn 
from  the  cob  with  a  thin,  sharp-bladed 
knife.  Pack  corn  in  jar  tightly  until  full. 
Add  one  level  teaspoonful  of  salt  to  each 
quart  and  sufficient  hot  water  to  fill.  Place 
rubber  and  top  in  position;  seal  partially 
but  not  tight.  (Cap  and  tip  tin  cans.) 
Sterilize  in  hot  water  bath,  180  min.;  water- 
seal,  120  min.;  5  lbs.  steam  pressure,  90 
min.;  10  to  15  lbs.  steam  pressure,  60 
min.  Remove  the  jars.  Tighten  covers, 
invert  to  cool  and  test  joints. 


When  canning  Sweet  Corn  on  the  cob, 
follow  same  directions  but  pack  whole  ears 
in  jars  instead  of  cut-off  corn. 

Sweet  Peppers. — Use  sweet  green  Pep- 
pers. Place  the  peppers  in  the  oven  and  bake 
them  until  the  skins  separate  from  the  meat. 
Remove  the  skins.  Pack  them  solid  in  hot 
glass  jars  or  tin  cans.  Add  water.  Add 
one  level  teaspoonful  of  salt  per  quart.  Put 
the  rubbers  and  caps  of  jars  in  position,  not 
tight.  Cap  and  tip  tin  cans.  Sterilize  in 
hot-water  bath,  90  minutes;  water-seal, 
75  min.;  5  lbs.  steam  pressure,  60  min.; 
10  lbs.  steam  pressure  40  min.  Remove  the 
jars;  tighten  the  covers;  invert  the  jars  to 
cool,  and  test  the  joints.  Wrap  the  jars  to 
prevent  bleaching. 

Pumpkin,  Squash,  Hominy  and 
Sauerkraut. — Prepare  and  cut  into  con- 
venient sections.  Blanch  3  minutes.  Cold- 
dip;  pack  closely  in  hot  jars  or  cans.  Fill 
with  boiling  water.  Add  level  teaspoonful 
salt  per  quart.  Put  rubbers  and  caps  of 
jars  into  position,  not  tight.  Seal  tin  cans 
completely.  Sterilize  in  hot-water  bath, 
120  minutes;  water  seal,  90  min.;  5  lbs. 
steam  pressure,  60  min.;  10  lbs.  steam  pres- 
sure, 40  min. 

Roots  and  Tuber  Vegetables. — These 
include  such  vegetables  as  Carrots,  Parsnips, 
Salsify,  Beets,  Turnips  and  Sweet  Potatoes. 
Grade  for  size,  color  and  degree  of  ripeness. 
Wash  and  clean  thoroughly.  Scald  or 
blanch  in  hot  water  sufficiently  to  loosen 
the  skin.  Dip  quickly  into  cold  water.  Pare 
or  scrape  to  remove  skin.  Pack  whole 
vegetables,  slices  or  cross-section  pieces  in 
hot  glass  jars  or  tin  cans.  Add  boiling 
water  until  full.  Add  level  teaspoonful  salt 
to  quart.  Place  rubbers  and  tops  of  jars 
in  position.  Partially  seal,  but  not  tight. 
Cap  and  tip  tin  cans  completely.  Sterilize 
in  hot- water  bath,  90  minutes;  water  seal. 


362 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


min.i    s  lbs.  steam  pressure,  60  min.; 

J<lbs.  steam  pressure,  40  min.     Remove 

jars  from  canner.     Tighten  covers.     Invert 

to  cool  and  test  joints.     Wrap  in  paper  and 

store. 

Small  Beets  that  run  about  40  to  the 
quart  are  the  most  suitable  for  good  packs. 
To  prevent  fading  of  the  color,  leave  on  i 
in.  of  the  stem  and  all  of  the  tail  while 
blanching.  Blanch  not  more  than  5  min., 
and  cold-dip.  The  skin  should  be  scraped 
off,  not  peeled.  Pack  Beets  whole,  if 
possible. 

Vegetable  Greens — These  include  Swiss 
Chard.  Kale,  French  Endive,  Chinese  Cab- 
bage leaves.  Cabbage  Sprouts,  New  Zealand 
Spinach,  Asparagus,  Spinach,  Beet  tops, 
cultivated  Dandelion  and  Collards.  Can 
greens  the  day  they  are  picked.  Wash 
clean,  sort  thoroughly,  allowing  no  foreign 
weeds  or  other  vegetable  matter  to  remain. 
Rid  the  greens  of  all  sand,  dirt,  dry  and 
decayed  or  diseased  leaves.  Place  the 
greens  in  a  crate  or  cheese  cloth  and  blanch 
in  a  vessel  with  a  little  water  under  false 
bottom  or  in  a  regular  steamer,  15  to  20 
minutes.  Remove.^  Plunge  quickly  into 
cold  water.  Cut  in  convenient  lengths. 
Pack  tight  in  jar  or  container  and  season  to 
taste;  add  a  httle  chipped  beef,  olive  oil, 
etc.  Add  hot  water  to  fill  crevices,  and  a 
level  teaspoonful  of  salt  to  each  quart.  If 
using  glass  jars  place  rubber  and  top  in 
position,  partially  seal,  if  using  tin  cans, 
cap  and  tip  completely.  Sterilize  in  hot- 
water  bath,  120  minutes;  water  seal,  90 
min.;  s  lbs.  steam  pressure,  60  min.;  10 
lbs.  steam  pressure,  40  min.  _  Remove  from 
canner.  Tighten  covers  of  jars.  Invert  to 
cool  and  test  the  joints.  Wrap  in  paper  to 
prevent  bleaching,  and  store. 

Vegetables.  Including  Wax  Beans, 
Stringless  Beans,  Okra,  Green  Peppers, 
Cabbage  and  Brussels  Sprouts — String 
or  hull.  Blanch  in  live  steam  for  5  to  10 
minutes.  Remove  and  dip  quickly  in  cold 
water.  Pack  in  hot  jars  or  tin  cans  and  add 
boiling  water  until  jars  or  tin  cans  are  full. 
Add  one  level  teaspoonful  of  salt  to  each 
quart.  Put  rubbers  and  caps  of  jars  in 
position,  not.  tight.  Seal  tin  cans  com- 
pletely Sterilize  in  hot-water  bath,  120 
minutes;  water  seal,  90  min.;  5  lbs.  steam 
pressure,  60  min.,  10  lbs.  steam  pressure, 
40  min. 

Lima  Beans  and  Peas. — Blanch  in  live 
steam  for  5  to  10  minutes.  Dip  quickly  in 
cold  water.  Pack  immediately  in  hot  glass 
jars  or  tin  cans  Add  boiling  water  to  fill 
container.  Add  level  teaspoonful  salt  per 
quart.  Place  rubbers  and  caps  of  jars  in 
position,  not  tight.  Seal  tin  cans  com- 
pletely. Sterilize  in  hot- water  bath,  180 
minutes;  water  seal,  120  min.,  5  lbs.  steam 
pressure,  60  min.;  10  to  15  lbs.  steam  pres- 
sure, 40  min.  Remove  from  container. 
Tighten  cover.  Invert  to  cool,  and  test  the 
joints.  Wrap  in  paper  to  prevent  breakage, 
and  store. 

Cauliflower. — Use  the  flowered  portion. 
Separate  head  into  small  pieces.    Plunge  it 


into  cold  brine  (one-half  pound  salt  to  12 
quarts  of  water).  Allow  the  Cauliflower  to 
remain  in  this  brine  tor  one  hour.  Blanch 
it  3  mm.  and  dip  quickly  into  cold  water. 
Pack  it  in  hot  glass  jars  or  tin  cans.  Fill 
with  boiling  water  and  add  a  level  tea- 
spoonful of  salt  per  quart.  Put  rubbers 
and  caps  of  jars  in  position,  not  tight.  Cap 
and  tip  cans.  Sterilize  in  hot-water  bath, 
60  minutes;  water  seal,  40  min.,  s  lbs. 
steam  pressure,  30  min.,  15  lbs.  steam 
pressure,  20  min.  Remove  the  jars. 
Tighten  covers.  Invert  jars  to  cool,  and  test 
the  joints.  Wrap  the  jars  with  paper  to 
prevent  bleaching. 

FRUITS 

Soft  Fruits  and  Berries. — These  in- 
clude. Apricots,  Blackberries,  Blueberries, 
Cherries,  Currants.  Dewberries,  Figs, 
Gooseberries,  Grapes,  Huckleberries, 
Peaches,  Plums,  Raspoerries,  and  Straw- 
berries. After  hulling,  seeding,  stemming, 
or  Skinning  the  fruit,  place  fruit  in  a  strainer 
and  rinse  by  pouring  cold  water  over  it. 
Pack  from  strainer  into  hot  jars  or  cans 
without  crushing,  using  big  spoon  or  ladle. 
Hot  sirup  previously  prepared  should  be 
poured  over  the  fruit  at  once.  Before  pack- 
ing a  second  jar,  place  rubbers  and  caps  in 
position,  not  tight.  If  using  tin  cans,  seal 
completely.  Enameled  tin  cans  should  be 
used  for  all  highly  acid  berries.  Sterilize  in 
hot-water  bath,  16  minutes,  water  seal, 
12  min.;  5  lbs.  steam  pressure,  10  min.; 
10  lbs.  steam  pressure,  5  min.  Remove  from 
canner;  tighten  covers;  invert  to  cool,  and 
test  joints.  Wrap  in  paper  to  prevent 
bleaching,  and  store. 

Hard  Fruits. — Apples,  Pears,  and 
Quinces. — Remove  skin  and  core.  Cut 
into  convenient  tlices  or  sections  and  drop 
into  slightly  salted  cold  water  to  keep  from 
tarnishing.  Blanch  iH  minutes.  Cold- 
dip.  Pack  closely  in  hot  jars  or  tin  cans. 
Fill  with  hot  sirup.  Put  rubbers  and  caps 
of  jars  into  position,  not  tight.  Seal  tin 
cans  completely.  Sterilize  in  hot-water 
bath,  20  minutes;  water  seal,  12  min.; 
5  Ibi.  steam  pressure,  8  min.;  10  to  15  lbs. 
steam  pressure,  6  min.  _  Remove  from  can- 
ner; tighten  covers;  invert  to  cool,  and 
test  joints.  Wrap  in  paper  to  prevent 
bleaching,  and  store. 

DRYING  FRUITS  AND 
VEGETABLES 

The  old[art  of  drying  fruits  and  vegetables 
is  again  revived.  It  is  the  simplest  method 
of  preserving  many  of  our  crops. 

Simfile  frames  may  be  made,  using  a  low 
tray  with  a  wire  bottom;  the  mesh  must  be 
rather  fine,  otherwise  the  portions  of  fruit 
will  pass  through  the  holes,  for  it  is  remark- 
able how  much  the  crops  will  shrink  when 
water  is  lost.  This  frame  may  be  hung 
outside  in  the  sun,  or  may  be  hung  over  the 
gas  or  coal  range.  The  use  of  an  electric 
fan  is  also  advised,  for  the  drying  depends 
upon  heat  and  interchange  of  air. 


FRUITS  AND  VEGETABLES  FOR  WINTER 


363 


Vegetables  and  fruits  should  be  pared  and 
cut  into  thin  slices.  With  certain  juicy 
sorts  placing  them  in  the  oven  to  start 
drying  will  be  found  advisable;  the  heat 
must  not  be  strong,  otherwise  the  material 
will  balce  or  burn,  not  dry. 

Most  vegetables  are  blanched;  this  con- 
sists merely  of  placing  them  in  a  wire 
strainer  and  plunging  in  boiling  water.  The 
blanching  is  followed  by  the  cold-dip;  this 
merely  means  that  they  are  dipped  in  cold 


water, which  will  retain  their  color  and  mak° 
them  firm.  The  blanching  process  removes 
strong  odors  and  flavors  and  softens  the 
fiber,  besides  thoroughly  cleansing  the 
product. 

Full  directions  for  drying  fruits  and  vege- 
tables in  the  home,  with  recipes  for  cooking, 
are  contained  in  Farmers'  Bulletin  841, 
copies  of  which  may  be  obtained  free  from 
the  Division  of  Publications,  U.  S.  Depart- 
ment of  Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C. 


For  a  complete  work  on  the  subject  of  this  chapter  we  recommend 
CANNING  AND    PRESERVING,  by  Mrs.  S.  T.  Rorer.     This  book  is  the  result  of  care- 
ful  practice  tn  teaching  beginners  how  to  can  and  preserve  fruits  and  vegetables;   also  the  bes 
methods  of  making  marmalades,  fruit  butter  and  jellies,  drying  fruits,  and   making  sirups 
and  catsups,  pickling,  flavored  vinegars,  drying  herbs,  etc.     Price,   81.10.  postpaid.  Secure 
your  copies  where  you  bought  your  Garden  Guide. 


•^^j^>rL.  •^r'^^^i".  ■■^^^^^--  •■'^^M^-~- 

^^••'       ^^S^       ''^^^m^^^       r-<k^^c.- 


mm; 


m^^^ 


^i0>      -"^^t^fi^'       :::^Pv-^ 


City  Houses  and  their  Rear  Yards 
Some  of  these  yards  are  purely  ornamental:  others,  notably  the  two  in  the  middle, 
have  vegetable  spaces.  The  dotted  parts  of  the  yards  represent  grass,  the  shaded 
parts  arbors  and  rest  house,  the  remainder  being  beds  and  borders.  Some 
most  delightful  landscape  effects  can  be  produced  in  these  limited  areas  of  20  ft. 
wide  by'40  ft.  deep 


364 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Time  Table  for  Scalding,   Blanching    and    Sterilizing 
Vegetables,   and  Fruits 

(From  Farmers'  Bulletin  839) 


Products  by  groups. 


SPECIAL  VEGETABLES. 

Tomatoes 

Pumpkin 

Squash 

Hominy 

Sauerkraut 

Corn,  sweet 

Sweet  peppers 

POD  VEGETABLES  AND  OTHER  GREEN 
PRODUCTS. 

Beans,  wax 

Beans,  stringless 

Okra 

Peppers,  green  or  ripe 

Cabbage 

Brussels  sprouts 

Cauliflower 

ROOT    AND  TUBER   VEGETABLES. 

Carrots 

Parsnips 

Salsify 

Beets 

Turnips 

Sweet  potatoes 

Other  roots  and  tubers 

SOUP   VEGETABLES. 

Lima  beans 

Peas 

GREENS,   DOMESTIC  OR  WILD. 

Swiss  chard 

Kale 

Chinese  cabbage  leaves 

French  endive 

Cabbage  sprouts 

Spinach,  New  Zealand 

Asparagus 

Spinach 

Beet  tops 

Dandelion,  cultivated 

Collards 

SOFT  FRUITS  AND  BERRIES. 

Apricots 

Blackberries 

Blueberries 

Cherries 

Currants 

Dewberries t 

Figs 

Gooseberries 

Grapes 

Huckleberries 

Peaches 

Plums 

Raspberries 

Strawberries 

HARD  FRUITS. 

Apples 

Pears 

Quinces 


Scald 

or 
blanch. 


5-10 
S-io 
S-io 
S-io 
S-IO 
5-10 
3 

S 
5 
5 
5 
S 
5 
S 

5-10 
5-10 

IS 
IS 
IS 
IS 
IS 
IS 
15 
IS 
IS 
IS 
IS 


1-2 

1-2 


Hot- 
water- 

bath 
outfits 
at  212". 


iH 
iH 


22 
120 
120 
120 
120 
180 

90 


120 
120 
120 
120 
120 
120 
60 

90 
90 
90 
90 
90 
90 
90 

180 
180 

120 
120 
120 
120 
120 
120 
120 
120 
120 
120 
120 


Water- 
seal 

outfits, 
214°. 


18 
90 
90 
90 
90 
120 
75 


90 
90 
90 
90 
90 
90 
40 

80 
80 
80 
80 
80 
80 
80 

120 
120 

90 
90 
90 
90 
90 
90 
90 
90 
90 
90 
90 

12 
12 
12 
12 
12 
12 
12 
12 
12 
12 
12 
12 
12 
12 

12 

12 


Steam 

pressure 

5  to  10 

pounds. 


60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
30 

60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 

60 
60 

60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 

10 
10 
10 

ID 
ID 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
ID 


CHAPTER  XXXI 

Miscellaneous 

Mice  and  Rabbits 

Pine  mice  and  cottontail  rabbits  occur  throughout  the  eastern 
portion  of  the  United  States  and  do  much  harm  to  fruit  and  ornamental 
trees  and  shrubs  as  well  as  to  garden  produce  and  other  farm  crops. 
Both  can  be  thinned  out  or  cleared  out  by  poisoning.  For  the  Pine 
mice  use  Sweet  Potatoes  cut  into  pieces  about  the  size  of  large  Grapes. 
Moisten  four  quarts  of  these  and  drain  off  excess  moisture.  Slowly 
sift  over  them  one-eighth  ounce  of  powdered  strychnine  (alkaloid) , 
using  a  pepper  box  or  salt  shaker  for 
the  purpose,  and  stir  constantly  to 
distribute  the  poison  evenly.  One  or 
two  pieces  of  the  poisoned  Sweet 
Potatoes  should  be  dropped  into 
the  tunnels  through  the  natural 
openings,  or  through  openings  made 
with  a  stick.  A  systematic  use  of 
this  poison  invariably  results  in  an 
almost   complete    extermination    of 

Pine  mice.  ^  Simple  Mouse  Trap 

These  pests  are  also  easily  trapped,  but  owing  to  the  extra  time 
and  labor  required,  this  method  does  not  compare  favorably  with 
poisoning.  Rabbits  can  be  exterminated  by  the  use  of  powdered 
strychnine,  but  game  laws  should  be  first  consulted. 

Eradicating  Moles 

One  of  the  worst  and  most  persistent  pests  in  gardens,  nurseries, 
lawns  and  sometimes  in  greenhouses,  is  the  mole.  There  are  several 
ways  of  trying  to  eradicate  moles.  First,  and  doubtless  best,  is  the 
use  of  traps,  either  wooden  or  iron,  which  are  in  several  patterns, 
those  best  known  being  the  Out  o'  Sight,  costing  75c.  each;  the 
Reddick,  at  $1;  the  Olmstead,  $1.50;  and  the  Nash  mole  trap,  $1. 
The  latter  is  used  and  recommended  by  the  United  States  Agricultural 
Department.  It  is  a  light  wire  arrangement,  and  is  highly  spoken  of. 
It  acts  upon  the  well-known  principle  of  the  Choker  wire  traps  used  for 
mice.  These  and  other  traps  may  be  had  from  seedsmen.  It  requires 
considerable  skill  to  set  a  trap  to  the  best  advantage,  and  is  an  art  not 
always  readily  acquired.  In  gajrdens  or  nurseries  it  is  well  to  set  the 
trap  at  the  edge  of  the  grounds  or  lawn,  as  it  is  there  that  the  moles 

365 


866  GARDEN  GUIDE 

usually  enter.  Poisoned  fresh  Corn,  placed  in  their  runs,  is  also 
recommended,  a  strychnine  solution  being  used.  Lastly,  carbon 
bisulphide,  which  is  a  deadly  poisonous  volatile  Hquid,  may  be  poured 
into  their  runs  at  places,  covering  the  opening  over  again  with  the 
soil.  The  fumes  permeate  the  soil  and  kill  the  moles.  One  can 
frequently  catch  or  kill  the  moles  as  they  work,  by  noticing  the  move- 


Choker  Loop  Trap  for  Moles  Scissors-jaw  or  Gripping-jaw 

From  "Trapping  Moles,"  Farmers'  Bull.  832  Trap  for  Moles 

ment  of  the  soil.  The  utmost  caution  has  to  be  exercised,  as  they 
hear  the  slightest  noise.  A  spade  or  digging  fork  may  be  used  to 
scoop  in  behind  them  at  about  6  inches  from  where  they  are  working, 
and  not  in  front,  as  they  always  run  backward. 

How  to  Destroy  Rats 

The  chief  means  of  keeping  rats  from  one's  place  is  to  have  rat- 
proof  buildings,  and  for  preventing  the  increase  or  presence  of  rats 
have  perfect  cleanliness  everywhere,  no  waste  food  or  shelter  places  for 
them.  Dogs,  cats,  ferrets,  hawks,  owls,  skunks,  coyotes,  weasels 
and  minks  are  among  their  natural  enemies  and  should  be  encouraged. 
Trapping,  poisoning,  fumigating,  and  the  use  of  micro-organisms 
(bacteria)  are  other  means  adopted  for  their  eradication.  Full 
particulars  as  to  the  destruction  of  rats  are  given  in  Farmers'  Bulletin 
369,  published  Sept.  3, 1909,  by  the  U.  S.  Dept.  of  Agriculture.  There 
are  several  forms  of  rat  traps,  possibly  the  best  being  one  or  other 
of  the  guillotine  type.  The  mouse  trap  shown  p.  365  could  be  attempted. 
Sometimes  a  barrel  trap  is  used,  the  cover  being  so  poised  and  balanced 
that  when  the  rat  places  its  weight  on  it  that  side  immediately  tips 


MISCELLANEOUS  367 

and  throws  the  rat  into  the  water.  Of  course,  a  bait  has  to  be  placed 
on  the  top.  Among  the  poisons  used  are:  barium  carbonate,  strych- 
nine, arsenic  and  phosphorus.  The  barium  may  be  fed  in  the  form 
of  a  dough,  composed  of  four  parts  of  meal  or  flour  and  one  part  of 
the  mineral.  Another  plan  is  to  spread  the  barium  carbonate  upon 
fish,  toasted  bread  or  ordinary  bread  and  butter.  The  prepared  bait 
should  be  placed  in  rat  runs,  about  a  teaspoonful  at  a  place.  Strychnine 
may  be  used  by  inserting  the  dry  crystals  in  small  pieces  of  raw  meat, 
sausage  or  toasted  cheese;  or  oatmeal  may  be  moistened  with  strych- 
nine sirup,  and  small  quantities  laid  about.  The  sirup  is  made  as 
follows:  dissolve  one-half  ounce  of  strychnia  sulphate  in  a  pint  of 
boihng  water,  add  a  pint  of  thick  sugar  sirup  and  stir  thoroughly. 
For  an  arsenic  bait,  take  a  pound  of  oatmeal,  a  pound  of  coarse  brown 
sugar  and  a  spoonful  of  arsenic;  mix  well  together  and  put  the  com- 
position into  an  earthen  jar. 

Bulbs,  Corms,  Tubers,  Rhizomes,  and  Rootstocks 

A  bulb  is  composed  of  fleshy  scales  packed  together,  forming  an 
ovoid,  oval,  round,  or  flattened  ball,  from  the  under  surface  and  edges 
of  which  roots  are  produced  during  growth.  Examples:  Hyacinth, 
LiHum,  Dafl'odil,  Onion.  A  corm  may  be  superficially  like  a  bulb  but 
is  solid.  Examples:  Gladiolus,  Crocus,  Cyclamen.  A  tuber  is  best 
represented  in  a  Potato,  being  "a  short  thickened  shoot  furnished  with 
'eyes'  or  buds";  other  examples  are  Caladium,  Calla  or  Arum  Lily, 
Dahha,  tuberous  Begonia.  A  rhizome  (rhizomatous  plant)  is  a  shoot  or 
stem  that  grows  more  or  less  horizontally  on  or  in  the  soil  producing 
buds  and  stem  growth.  Examples:  German  Iris,  Lily  of  the  Valley, 
Solomon's  Seal.  A  rootstock  is  the  thickened  fleshy  mass  that  hardy 
herbaceous  perennial  plants  as  a  rule,  form,  and  in  which  their  store  of 
nourishment  is  carried  over  in  Winter.  Examples:  Peony,  Rhubarb, 
Phlox,  Delphinium. 

Ants,  Destroying 

Some  good  ways  of  destroying  ants  are  to  get  some  old  meaty 
bones — from  the  stock  pot  will  do — and  place  them  near  the  nest; 
these  will  attract  them  in  large  numbers,  and  they  can  then  be  dropped 
into  boiling  water.  Another  way,  where  there  are  no  valuable  plants 
near,  is  to  sprinkle  the  nest  and  runs  with  a  mixture  of  six  parts  water 
to  one  part  kerosene.  Forceful  syringing  with  warm  water  will  clean 
pot  plants  of  ants;  and  stirring  the  soil  around  their  nests  repeatedly 
will  also  tend  to  clear  them  out.  As  a  soil  fumigant  Vaporite  is  an 
excellent  remedy.  It  is  safe  and  easy  to  use,  being  already  prepared. 
Bisulphide  of  carbon  is  likewise  sure. 


368 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


A    Dandy    Flagstaff    for    the    Lawn 

One  who  has  a  flagstaff  writes:  "We  got  a  barrel  and 
put  in  a  heavy  2-inch  iron  pipe,  keeping  this  in  the  center, 
around  which  we  filled  concrete,  ramming  it  well.  It  is 
necessary  to  place  a  small  block  at  the  bottom  and  to 
cover  the  concrete  with  some  small  boards 
at  the  top  in  order  to  hold  the  iron  pipe  steady 
while  the  concrete  is  being  filled  in.  This  work 
must  be  done  near  to  the  place  where  the  pole 
is  to  be  erected.  When  the  concrete  has  set 
solidly,  the  barrel  may  be  slid  into  the  hole 
prepared  for  it  in  the  way  shown  in  the  illus- 


-u^ 


Prepared  trench  in  which  to  slide 
barrel 


tration.  The  flagpole  is  38  feet  high, 
made  of  sections  as  follows:  One  15- 
foot  length  of  extra  heavy  23/2-inch 
iron  pipe;  one  10-foot  length  of  2-inch 
pipe;  one  8-foot  length  of  1^-inch 
pipe;  one  5-foot  length  of  1^-inch 
pipe.  Total,  38  feet.  The  flagstaff  is 
set  4  feet  below  the  surface,  giving  an 
actual  height  of  34  feet.  At  the  top 
of  the  last  section  a  hole  can  be  drilled 
through  the  pipe  for  the  halyards,  and 
surmounting  this  an  ornamental  piece 
can  be  set  on,  including  weather 
vane.  It  is  important  to  paint  each 
section  three  times,  before  setting 
into  position,  ^and  all  the  sections 
must  be  well  threaded  and  have 
good  sockets." 


Garden  Boards  and  Their  Uses 

When  in  early  Spring  we  have  spaded  our 

garden,    made   the  soil  fine  and  mellow,    and 

leveled  it  by  use  of  the  garden  rake,  we 

^^,w  greatly   dishked   to   walk  on   the  plot  to 

-^    plant  the  seeds,  the  hopes  of  our  season's 


MISCELLANEOUS  369 

crops.  It  always  seems  that  in  trampling  down  the  soil  which  we  have 
brought  into  such  a  mellow  condition,  we  partly  undo  the  work  which 
we  have  done  with  spade  and  rake.  Later,  when  the  seeds  have  germi- 
nated, and  the  plants  need  attention,  again  we  feel  reluctant  to  walk 
between  the  rows  for  the  purpose  of  thinning  out,  cultivating  or 
transplanting.  We  know  that  the  soil,  especially  if  moist,  is  compacted 
by  the  pressure  of  our  feet  so  that,  in  drying,  it  is  left  in  hard  lumps. 

We  have  learned  in  our  many  years  of  amateur  gardening  a  simple 
method  whereby  to  avoid  trampling  down  and  compacting  the  garden 
soil.  We  do  not  claim  to  have  originated  the  device,  it  may  have 
been  used,  for  aught  we  know,  ever  since  Adam  and  Eve  left  Eden. 
The  point  is  that  it  works.  Last  season  our  garden  plot  was  36  feet 
wide  and  48  feet  long.  Through  it,  lengthwise,  ran  a  path  3  feet 
wide,  which  left  on  each  side  a  plot  in  which  the  rows  of  vegetables 
were  16  feet  long.  Some  of  these  rows  were  14  inches  and  some  16 
inches  apart.  In  view  of  these  dimensions  we  obtained  two  pine 
boards,  planed  both  sides,  each  1  inch  thick,  10  inches  wide  and  8 
feet  long. 

Standing  in  the  path  we  would  place  one  of  these  boards  end  toward 
the  path  and  across  the  end  of  the  plot  which  we  were  going  to  plant;  then 
walking  along  it  we  would  place  the  near  end  of  the  second  board 
against  the  far  end  of  the  first  board,  so  that  it  reached  the  rest  of  the 
way  across  the  plot.  Walking  on  these  boards  we  would  set  our 
garden  fine  along  one  side,  make  a  drill  and  plant  seeds  or  set  plants. 
Next  we  would  move  the  garden  Hue  over  to  the  other  side  of  the 
boards,  make  a  second  drill,  and  plant  a  second  row  of  seeds  or  plants. 
Then  we  would  lift  to  the  other  side  of  the  line,  first  the  board  farthest 
from  the  path,  and  second,  the  one  nearest  the  path,  and  proceed  to 
plant  a  third  row,  and  so  on  till  the  whole  plot  was  planted.  It  should 
be  noted  that  at  the  first  placing  of  the  boards  we  planted  two  rows 
before  moving  the  boards,  but  after  that  we  move  the  boards  as  we 
plant  each  row.  Where  the  rows  in  the  garden  plot  are  not  more  than 
6  feet  to  10  feet  long  a  single  board  may,  of  course,  be  used. 

In  thinning  out  and  weeding  rows  we  invariably  use  the  boards  in 
this  way.  And  often  in  gathering  the  vegetables,  especially  if  the  soil 
is  wet,  we  use  our  garden  boards  and  thus  avoid  compacting  the  soil 
at  a  time  when  moisture  conservation  helps  to  insure  big  crops.  In 
view  of  our  past  experience  we  would  not  want  to  be  without  our 
garden  boards,  and  do  not  intend  to  if  we  can  help  it. 


370  GARDEN  GUIDE 

Paint 

The  most  economical  and  satisfactory  black  paint  we  have 
ever  used  for  ironwork  was  made  by  mixing  about  two  quarts 
of  coal  tar  with  a  pint  or  a  pint  and  a  half  of  benzole, 
which  was  laid  on  with  a  paint  brush.  This  makes  an  excellent 
varnish  for  rough  work.  It  could  not  be  recommended,  however, 
as  a  fine  varnish  for  any  inside  work.  Paint  made  of  coal  tar  and 
benzole  will  be  found  excellent  for  smearing  the  ironwork  of  farm 
implements.  As  benzole  is  somewhat  volatile,  no  more  paint  should 
be  prepared  at  one  time  than  would  be  used  immediately.  Another 
composition  to  blacken  walls  is  made  as  follows:  Boil  well  together 
one  gallon  of  coal  tar  to  2  pounds  of  pitch,  add  5  pounds  of  sifted  hot 
lime.  Apply  it  hot  with  brushes.  Other  cheap  and  durable 
paints  for  woodwork  are  these:  For  wood  underground:  Take  boiled 
linseed  oil,  stir  in  pulverized  charcoal  to  the  consistency  of  paint. 
Put  a  coat  of  this  over  the  timber,  and  the  exclusion  of  damp  will  be 
perfect.  Limewood  posts  have  been  taken  up  after  having  been  set 
seven  years  that  were  as  sound  when  taken  up  as  when  first  put  into 
the  ground.  Time  and  weather  seemed  to  have  no  effect  upon  them. 
The  posts  should  be  well  seasoned  before  the  oil  and  charcoal  are  ap- 
pUed,  and  the  paint  should  be  thoroughly  dry  before  they  are  put  into 
the  ground.  For  outdoor  woodwork,  the  best  priming  is  simply  whiting 
mixed  in  pure  raw  linseed  oil;  let  it  stand  until  it  is  thoroughly  mixed; 
then  reduce  with  oil,  and  add  the  drier  sufficient  to  dry  it.  This  makes  a 
good,  hard,  durable  paint  for  the  first  coat.  Reduce  it  to  an  ordinary 
thickness  for  priming  and  apply  with  an  ordinary  brush.  It  must  be 
thoroughly  beaten  together,  so  as  to  work  out  all  the  lumps  of  whiting. 
If  color  is  desired,  or  the  woodwork  is  very  much  stained  by  age,  take 
about  one-half  common  whiting,  one-half  white  lead,  throw  in  a  small 
portion  of  red  lead  and  chrome  yellow  to  overcome  the  blackness  of  the 
wood,  or  add  umber  for  a  drab  color.  Fresh  paint  is  always  best. 
Small  portions  of  Venetian  red  and  lamp-black  will  do  for  a  dark  color. 
Yet  another  wood  preservative  paint  is  made  thus:  Boil  together  one 
gallon  of  coal  tar  and  1Y2  pounds  of  sulphate  of  zinc  (white  copperas), 
and  paint  it  on  the  woodwork  while  hot. — The  Horticultural  Direc- 
tory. 

Drainage 

There  are  few  places  where  some  amount  of  drainage  is  not 
necessary.  It  may  be  merely  the  drainage  around  barns  and  other 
houses  to  keep  them  dry  and  to  prevent  rot,  or  it  may  be  the  improve- 
ment in  land.  The  most  difficult  land  to  drain  is  a  perfectly  level 
stretch.    About  the  only  thing  one  can  do  is  to  cut  a  wide,  deep 


MISCELLANEOUS  371 

ditch  at  the  most  convenient  side,  or  where  the  ground  is  seemingly 
lowest,  and  drain  into  this;  an  outlet,  of  com-se,  is  imperative.  All 
land  that  holds  water  for  a  day  or  so  after  heavy  rain  requires  drain- 
age. The  benefits  derivable  are  the  sweetening  of  the  soil,  mak- 
ing it  accessible  to  roots  to  a  much  greater  depth,  freeing  it  of  stagnant 
water,  and  allowing  healthy  action  to  take  place.  Hard  baked  cylin- 
drical tiles  of  23/^-inch  diameter,  set  from  2^  feet  to  33^^  feet  deep,  ac- 
cording to  the  stiffness  or  sogginess  of  the  soil,  is  recommended.  In  the 
larger  areas  these  should  be  30  feet  apart.  Two  and  a  half  inch  pipe 
will  drain  from  400  feet  to  500  feet  of  ground.  A  good  system  is  to 
have  a  large  central  drain  with  obhque  lateral  feeders.  There  should 
be  a  steady  fall  and  good  outlet.  The  tiles  are  laid  on  a  flat  foun- 
dation, tightly  butted  end  to  end,  and  are  covered  over  with  sod,  grass 
side  downward,  or  brush,  or  straw,  or  even  paper,  and  the  soil  then 
filled  in  on  top.  Where  much  drainage  on  cleared  land  has  to  be  done, 
lines  can  be  cut  to  a  considerable  depth  by  ditching  plows  or  subsoil 
plows,  the  rest  of  the  work  being  done  by  hand  labor. 

Flies  in  Houses 

The  common  house  fly  is  now  generally  known  to  be  a  very 
dangerous  insect,  carrying  disease  germs  far  and  wide.  It  lays  its 
eggs  upon  horse  manure,  and  a  great  variety  of  decaying  vegetable 
and  animal  material.  An  individual  fly  may  lay  120  eggs  at  one 
time,  and  two  to  four  batches  may  be  laid.  The  eggs  usually  hatch 
in  less  than  24  hours,  and  the  period  of  emergence  of  the  adult  fly  is 
8  to  12  days.  In  a  few  days  the  young  female  is  ready  to  deposit  eggs. 
There  may  be  10  to  12  generations  every  Summer,  so  that  the  number 
of  flies  that  it  is  possible  to  mature  will  thus  readily  be  estimated.  The 
best  preventive  of  aU,  of  course,  is  absolute  cleanliness y  especiaUy  in 
regard  to  decaying  material;  sticky  fly  papers  are  also  used,  fly  traps, 
which  are  obtainable  in  various  patterns,  fumigants,  and  the  burn- 
ing of  fresh  pyrethrum  powder.  Another  way  is  to  expose  in  shal- 
low dishes  a  mixture  of  formalin  and  milk  or  water,  sweetened  with 
a  httle  sugar;  one  teaspoonful  of  commercial  formalin  to  one  teacupful 
of  water  or  milk.    Above  all,  however,  cleanliness  pays. 

Poison  Ivy 

Poison  Ivy  (Rhus  toxicodendron),  which  possesses  an  irritant 
poison,  and  is  usually  found  on  trees,  walls  and  fences,  somewhat  re- 
sembles the  Virginia  Creeper.  The  plants,  however,  are  easily  dis- 
tinguished by  comparison  of  the  leaves,  the  Poison  Ivy  having  three 
leaflets  while  the  innocuous  "Creeper"  has  five.  The  cheapest  and 
most  effective  method  of  eliminating  Poison  Ivy  is  the  simple  one  of 


372 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


rooting  up  the  plants  and  destroying  them.  The  safest  time  for  hand- 
ling the  Ivy  is  in  the  Fall,  after  the  plant  has  stopped  growing  and  the 
sap  is  out  of  it.  Overalls  and  gauntleted  gloves  should  be  worn.  As  a 
further  precaution,  grease  the  hands  with  lard  and  wash  off  with 
strongly  alkaline  soap  on  the  conclusion  of  the  work .  In  burning  Poison 
Ivy  keep  away  from  the  smoke.  Thorough  and  repeated  washing 
with  warm  water  and  alkaline  soap  as  soon  as  possible  after  contact 
with  the  Ivy  is  advisable,  and  it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  the 
poison  may  be  transferred  indirectly  from  clothing,  gloves  and  imple- 
ments, also  from  towels  used  by  those  who  have  touched  the  plant. 

It  is  a  curious  fact  that  some  individuals  experience  no  ill  effects 
from  contact  with  Poison  Ivy,  while  others  are  affected  even  without 
actual  touch.  The  poison  produces  acute  inflammation,  accompanied 
by  intense  burning  and  itching.  AppHcation  of  mildly  astringent  and 
sedative  lotions  will  allay  the  irritation;  boric  acid,  hyposulphite  of 
sodium,  sugar  of  lead,  and  zinc  are  regarded  as  effective  remedies.  In 
severe  cases  a  physician  should  be  consulted. 


Why  not  a  perennial  border  like  this  between  neighboring  lawns,  instead  of  a 

formal  fence? 


INDEX  TO  CONTENTS 


A  Page 

Aconite,  Winter 144 

Adiantum  (Maidenhair) 151 

Ailanthus  glandulosa -.  .47 

Alpine  Garden  (see  Rock  Garden). 

Alyssum 93,     98 

Anchusa 97 

Anemone 76 

Angelica  (Herb) 221 

Animal  Life  in  the  Garden 346-348 

Anise  (Herb) 221 

Antirrhinum 94,  135 

Ants,  Destroying 367 

Annuals  and  Biennials: 

Combinations  and  Location. 92-  94 
Planting  and  Transplanting.  ...   89 

Preparation  of  Soil 91 

Seed  Pods,  Removing 91 

Seed  Purchasing 88 

Soil  and  Fertilization 89,     91 

Sowing 88 

Time  to  Sow  Outdoors 89 

Transplanting 89 

Annuals  Useful  for  Cut  Flowers.  94 

Foliage 98 

For  Edging 98 

For  Rock  Garden 158 

Lesser  Known 97 

Biennials,  Protection  of 98,  99 

Apples 225 

Insects  affecting 296,  297 

Diseases  of 313 

Apricots 230 

Aquilegia 299 

Arctotis 94 

Ash 46,  47 

Asparagus 1 86 

Asparagus  Beetle  (Insect) 297 

Asparagus  Rust 313 

Asplenium  (Fern) 151 

Aster 103 

Beetle 298 

Disease 314 

Azalea 53,  57 


B  Page 

Baby's  Breath  (Gypsophila)93,  96,  98 

Bachelor  Buttons 93 

Balloon  Vine 91 

Balm  (Herb) 221 

Bayberry 57 

Beans 186 

Disease 314 

Insects  affecting 298 

Beech 44 

Bees 346 

Beets 188 

Disease 314 

Insects  affecting 298 

Begonia,  Tuberous 139 

Bellflowers  (Campanula) 106 

Berried  Shrubs 52 

Berry,        Partridge        (Mitchella 

repens) 56 

Biennials   and   Annuals   (see   An- 
nuals and  Biennials.) 

Birch 44,  46,  298 

Birds  in  the  Garden 349-356 

Berry  bearing  Shrubs,  etc.,  for 

the  Birds 355 

Bird  Food 354 

Bird  Houses,  How  to  make. 349-353 

Blackberries 230 

Disease 314 

Insects  affecting 298 

Blooming  Dates  of  Trees,  Shrubs 

and  Climbers 58 

Bog  Plants 152-154 

Bonemeal 251 

Boneset  (Herb) 221 

Bordeaux  Mixture 312 

Box  for  Hedges 40 

Bran  Mash,  Poisoned 294 

Broccoli , 188 

Brussels  Sprouts 188 

Budding 276 


In  this  Index  to  Contents  no  attempt  has  been  made  to  index  all  the  species 
and  varietal  names  mentioned  in  this  book,  except  when  these  have  special 
paragraphs  given  to  them;  otherwise,  for  instance,  in  the  chapter  on  Annuals 
and  Biennials,  will  be  found  listed  all  the  more  worthy  varieties;  in  the  chapter 
on  Ferns,  all  the  best  Ferns;  in  the  chapter  on  Pruning  is  given  a  full  list  of 
nearly  every  plant  which  calls  for  pruning  treatment,  and  so  on  throughout 
all  the  chapters.  Every  species  or  family  is  treated  in  its  own  particular  chap- 
ter; hence,  it  was  deemed  unwise  to  string  out  a  list  of  hundreds  of  names 
which  might  serve  but  to  confuse. 

373 


374 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Page 
Bulbs  (see  also  Bulb  Chapter). 

Camassia 143    Muscari  (Grape 

Chionodoxa.  .  .  .143         Hyacinth) 146 

Crocus 143    Narcissus 146 

Eremurus 144    Scillas  (Squills).  147 

Fritillaria 144    Snowdrop 145 

Hyacinth  orien-  Summer      Hya- 

talis 145         cinth 145 

Iris,  English  and  Tulips 148 

Spanish 145    Winter  Aconite. 144 

LiUes 123 

Bulbs,  Conns,  Tubers,  Rhizomes 

and  Root  Stocks. 367 

Bulbs  and  Tuberous-Rooted  Plants 
A  good  list  of  Bulbs  to  grow.  .  .  143 

Culture  and  mulching 143 

Naturalizing 143 

Preparation  of  Beds 141 

Time  of  planting 142 

Burnet  (Herb) .... , 221 

Bushes  for  Wet  Places         56 


Cabbage 189 

Insects  affecting 298,  299 

Disease 314 

Cacti 158 

Calendula 95 

Calycanthus  (Strawberry  Shrub) . .   52 

Camassia 143 

Campanula 106 

Canary  Bird  Vine 91 

Candytuft  (Iberis) 95 

Canker  Worm  (Insect) 264 

Cannas 104-106 

Canning    Fruits    and    Vegetables 

for  Winter 357-362 

Canterbury  Bells  (see  Bellf  owers). 

Caraway  (Herb) 221 

Cardoon 191 

Carbon  Bisulphide 295 

Cardinal  Climber  (Vine) 91 

Carnation: 

Aphid 299 

Disease 314 

Carrots 189 

Castor  Oil  Bean  (R.  communis)..  .   98 

Catalpa 47 

Catnip  (Herb) 221 

Cauliflower 191 

Celeriac 192 

Celery 192 

Caterpillar 299 

Disease 315 

Wintering  in  a  Trench 216 

Centaurea 95 

Cercis  (Red  Bud) 51 

Cherries 231 

Disease 315 

Insects  affecting 299 


Page 

Chestnut 47,  299 

Chicory 193 

Chamomile  (Herb) 221 

Chionodoxa 143 

Chives  (Herb) 221 

Chrysanthemums 112,  299 

Cineraria  Green  Fly 299 

Chionanthus 56 

Clethra 56 

Climbing  Fence  Plants 42 

C.imbing  Plants,  Blooming  dates 

of 58 

Coldframes 327-333 

See  also  Greenhouses. 

Coleus 107 

CoUards .  193 

Columbine  (Aquilegia) 299 

Commercial  Fertilizer 250,  256 

Conservatories,  attached  to  dwell- 
ing. 
See  Greenhouses. 

Coriander  (Herb) 221 

Cordon  Fruit  Training 229 

Coreopsis 96 

Corn,  Insects  affecting 299 

Corn  Salad 196 

Corn,  Sweet 193 

Corrosive  Sublimate 312 

Cosmos 96 

Cranberry,  Insects  affecting 300 

Cress 196 

Crocus 143 

Disease 315 

Crown  Imperial  (Fritallaria) 144 

Cucumbers 196 

Disease 315 

Insects  affecting 300 

Currants 231 

Disease 315 

Insects  affecting 300 

Cyclamen  Leaf  Mite 300 

Cypress 46 

Cypress  Vine 91 

Cypripedium   spectabilis    (Mocas- 
sin Flower) 153 

D 

Daffodil 146 

Dahlia 108-112,  300 

Daisies  (Shasta,  Michaelmas,  etc.) 

112,   113,   114 

Delphinium 114 

Deutzia 51 

Dewberries 233 

Dianthus 133,  138 

Digitalis 116 

Dill  (Herb) 221 

Diseases  of  Plants 309-318 


INDEX 


875 


Page 

Dogwood 47,  300 

Drainage 370 

Dryopteris  (Fern) 151 

E 

Egg  Plant 197 

Disease 315 

Elder 46 

Insects  affecting 3U0 

Elm  (American) 48 

Elm  Leaf  Beetle  (Insect) 300 

Endive 197 

Entrance,  or  Gate  Plantings 14 

Eremurus 143 

Eschscholtzia 89 

Espalier  Fruit  Training 229 

Euonymus  Scale 301 

Evergreen  Shrubs 56 

Evergreens 45,  46 

Hedges 40 

For  Rock  Garden 153 

Planting 41 

Pruning 264 

Everlasting  (Straw)  Flowers 94 

Everlasting  Pea 122 

F 

Fall  Treatment  of  Plants 292 

Fences  and  Hedges 15,  39-42 

Fence  Climbing  Plants 42 

Fennel  (Herb) 221 

Ferns 149-152 

Good  Varieties,  List  of 151 

Soil,  Insects  affecting 301 

Spores 149 

Where  to  plant 149 

Fertilizers : 

Animal  Manure 249 

Bonemeal 251 

Commercial 250,  256 

Their  Essentials 248 

Green  Manures 250 

Home  mixed 255 

Humus 253 

Lime 252 

Nitrate^f  Soda 252 

Poultry  Manure 252 

Sources  of  Supply 249 

Stable  Manure 255 

Suitable     for     Vegetables     and 

Fruit 253 

Where  and  how  to  use 253 

Feverfew  (Herb) 221 

Flagstaff,  How  to  make  and  erect. 368 

Flies  in  Houses 371 

Flower  Garden,   the  hardy.      See 
Perennials. 


Page 
Flower  Seed  Germination,   Table 

of 100 

Forcing  Structures,  Useful  little.  .332 
See  also  Greenhouses. 

Forgetmenot 96 

Formaldehyde 312 

Forsythia  (Golden  Bell) 50,  57 

Fountain  for  Garden 165 

Foxglove  (Digitalis) 116 

Frames.    See  Coldframes. 

Fritillaria 143 

Frost,  Facts  about 290 

Fruit  for  the  Small  Garden. .  .223-243 

Cordon  training 229 

Espalier  training 229 

Ideal  Garden,  Plan  for 242,  243 

Preliminaries 224  ^ 

Apples 225    Loganberries .  .  .  239 

Apricots 230    Peaches 235 

Blackberries. . .  .  230    Pears 237 

Cherries 231    Plums 238,  317 

Currants 231    Quince 239 

Dewberries 233    Raspberries.  .  .  .240 

Gooseberries 233    Strawberries 240 

Grapes 233 

Fruit  Canning  for  Winter  use .  357-364 

Fruit  Trees,  Transplanting 284 

Fruits,  Suitable  Fertilizers  for 253 

Fruits   and   Vegetables   for   Win- 
ter  357-364 

Drying 362 

Time    for    scalding,     blanching 

and  sterilizing 364 

Fumigants  for  Insects 295 

Furniture  for  the  Garden 160-166 


G 

Garden  Boards  and  Their  Uses...  .368 
Garden  Ferns.  See  Ferns. 

Garden  Furniture 160-166 

Bird  Bath 166 

Fountain 165 

Garden  Benches 160 

Garden  House 162 

Rustic  Chair 163 

Rustic  Woodwork 160,  164 

Sun  Dial 162 

Garden   Operations,    Calendar   of 

Monthly 339-345 

Garden  Plan  for  a  Fruit 242,  243 

Garden  Tools 308,  334-338 

Garden,  Vegetable 173-222 

Gardening,     Bungalow     or     Mid- 

Smnmer 244-247 

Fitting  the  Land 245 

Seeds  and  Plants 245 

Vegetables  to  grow  from  Seeds.  .245 

Flowers  for  July  Planting 246 

Gardening  Pointers 214 


376 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Page 

Gate,  or  Entrance  Plantings 14 

Geraniums 115,  301 

Germination  of  Flower  Seeds 100 

Ginkgo  Tree 48 

Gladiolus 116-118 

Godetia 93,  96 

Golden  Bell  (Forsythia) 50,  57 

Gooseberry 233 

Insects  affecting 301 

Diseases 316 

Grafting 274-276 

Grapes 233 

Diseases 316 

Insects  affecting 301 

Varieties  of 235 

Grass:     Mowing 37 

Rolling,  Weeding,  Turfing 38 

Sowing 36 

Grass  Plots  and  Lawns 34 

Greenhouses:  Advantages  of 322 

For  the  Amateur 323 

Heating 325 

What  can  be  grown  in .- 322 

H 

Hardy  Perennials.   See  Perennials. 
Hardy  Flowers,  General  Selection 

83-  85 

Hawthorns 51 

Heath 56 

Hedges  and  Fences 15,  39-42 

Soil,  distance,  etc 41,  42 

Planting 41 

Pruning 262 

Hellebore 294 

Hemlock 46 

Herbs,    culinary,     flavoring    and 

medicinal 220 

From  Seed 220 

List  of 221,  222 

Winter  Protection , 220 

Hibiscus 118 

Hickory 47 

Insects  affecting 302 

Holly 54 

Hollyhock  (Althaea) 75,  99 

Home  Grounds,  Planning  the.  .13-33 

Composition  of  a  Garden 13 

Drives  and  Paths 14 

Locating  the  Dwelling  House.  16,  17 
Planting      Plans      and      Kevs 

14,  15;  20-33 

Shrubs,  treatment  of  the 18 

Honeysuckle 51 

Horehound  (Herb) 221 

Horse  Radish I97 


Page 

Hotbeds 327-333 

See  also  Greenhouses. 
House  and  Grounds: 

Methods  of  Planting  around  the  17 
Best  Position  for  with  Reference 

to  the  Sun 16 

Plan  for  semi-detached  houses. .   21 

Plan  for  Plot  50x100  ft 23,  25 

Plan  for  Plot  50x150  ft 27 

Plan  for  Plot  75x150  ft 29 

Plan  for  Plot  190x190  ft 31 

Plan  for  two-acres,  estate  of .  .  .'  33 

Humus 253 

Hyacinth. 143,  146 

Hydrangea 51 

Hydrocyanic  Acid  Gas,  Use  of 295 

Hyssop  (Herb) 221 


Immortelles 94 

Insect  Pests  of  Cultivated  Plants: 

Biting  or  Chewing 293,  308 

Fumigants  for 295 

General  recommendations 295 

Life  of 293 

Material  used  to  control 294 

Species  of  (46  illustrated)..  .296-308 

Spraying  Equipment  for 293 

Stages  in  Cycle  of  Development. 293 

Sucking 293,  308 

Iris 118-122,    145,  302 


Juniper 54,  302 


Kale 198 

Kerosene  Emulsion 295 

Kerria 52 

Kochia 93 

Kohl-Rabi 198 


Labeling  PKnts 216 

Larkspur  (Delphinium) 95 

Lathyrus 122 

Laurel,  Mountaiji 54,  67 

Lavender  (Herb) 221 

Lawn  Making 34 

Care 37 

First    Preparation    Most    Im- 
portant   34 

Mowing 37 

Rolling 38 

Seed  Mixtures  for 35 

Sowing 36 

Turfing 38 

Weeding 38 


INDEX 


377 


Page 

Lawns  and  Grass  Plots 34 

Layering 277 

Lead  Arsenate 294 

Leaf  Coverings 288 

Leek 198 

Lettuce 199,  302,  316 

Ligustrum  (Privet) 52 

Lilac 50 

Diseases 316 

Lilies 123 

Aphid 302 

Diseases 316 

Winter  Protection 289 

Lime 252 

Lime  Sulphur,  Commercial..  .294,  312 

Linden,  Insects  affecting 303 

Lobelia 93,  98,  153 

Locust 47,  303 

Loganberries 239 

Lonicera 51 

M 

Madonna  Lilies  (Lilium  candidum)124 

Magnolia 47,  57 

Maidenhair  Tree  (Ginkgo) 48 

Manures: 

Green 250 

Poultry 252 

Stable 255 

Maple .45,    46,    48,    51,303 

Marigold 125,  221 

Marjoram  (Herb) 221 

Marshmallow 118 

Melons 200,  303 

Memorandum  Book,  Garden 216 

Mice  and  Rabbits 365 

Mint,  Spear  and  Pepper  (Herb)..  .221 

Miscible  Oil 295 

Mock  Orange  (Philadelphus) 51 

Moles,  Eradicating 365 

Month  by  Month  in  Garden. ..339-345 
Mosquitoes,    Remedies    and    Pre- 
ventives  212 

Mountain  Laurel 54,  57 

Muscari 146 

Mushrooms 200 

Mustard 201,  221 

Myrica 57 

Myrtle  (Vinca  minor) 77 

Narcissus 146 

Nasturtium  Vine 303 

Nicotine  Solution 294 

Nitrate  of  Soda 252 

Nursery    Stock,    Cultivated    and 

Wild 63 

Oak 44,     47,     48,  303 

Okra 201 


O  Page 

Onions 201 

Osmunda  (Fern) 152 

Oxydendron 45 

Paint 370 

Pansy 125 

Papaver 134,  305 

Parsley 202,  221 

Parsnip 202 

Peach 235,  304,  316 

Pear 237,  304,  317 

Peas 203,  304,  316 

Pennyroval  (Herb) 221 

Peony 127-132.  304,  317 

Peppers 203 

Perennials : 

Autumr*  Planting 81 

Borders,  Considerations  for 78 

Borders,  Plans  for 86,  87 

Borders,  Situation  of 78 

Combinations  of 75 

Cultivation 81 

For  Rock  Garden 83 

General  Selection  of 83-    85 

List  of  30  Hardy  Indispensable .   83 

Planting 79 

Replanting,  Necessity  for 81 

Soil,  Preparation  of 79 

Spring  Planting 79 

Staking 81 

Watering 81 

Periwinkle    (Vinca) 77 

Petunia 127 

Phlox 132,  304 

Pigeons 346 

Pine 45,  304 

Pinks 133 

Plane,  Oriental 48 

Planting  Table  for  Vegetables 185 

Planting  Plans  and  Kevs  there  to. 20-33 

Plants  for  Waterside. .' 152-154 

Plants,  Labeling 216 

Plant  Propagation : 

Budding 276 

Cuttings,  Hardwood 268 

Leaf 270 

Perennials 270 

Root 270 

Soft-wooded 269 

Division  of  Perennials 271 

Flowers,    Seeds    of.    Sown    In- 
doors   272 

Grafting — Cion,  Cleft,  Whip  or 

Tongue 274-276 

Layering 277 

Perennial    and    Annual    Seed, 

Sowing 271 

Shrub  and  Tree  Seed,  Sowing.  .272 
Vegetable  Seed,  Sowing 271 


378 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Page 

Plum 238,  317 

Insects  affecting 305 

Pointers  for  Gardeners 214 

Poison  Ivj' •  •  •  -371 

Poplar 305 

Poppy,  Oriental  (Papaver)..  .134,  305 
Porch  Baskets,  Boxes  and  Plants. 

167-172 

Poultry  Manure .252 

Poultry  Possibilities 346 

Potatoes 204 

Potato,  Insects  affecting 

Aphids  on 305 

Colorado  Beetle 305 

Flea  Beetle 305 

Privet 52 

Privet  Borer 305 

Propagation,  see  Plant  Propagation 
Protecting  Plants  in  Winter.... 289-290 

Pruning 267 

Also  see  directions  for  numerous 
species  and  varieties  enumer- 
ated in  list,  pages 264-267 

Pumpkins 206 

Q 

Quince 239,  306 

R 

Rabbits 3  7,  365 

Radishes 206,  306 

Raspberries 240 

Insects  affecting 306 

Rats,  How  to  Destroy 366 

Red  Hot  Poker  (Tricoma) 138 

Rhododendrons 306 

Rhubarb 206 

Rock  Garden,  The 155-159 

A  Pretty  Rock  Garden 155 

Construction  and  Planting.  157,  158 

Location 155 

Plants  for 83,  158,  159 

Rosemary  (Herb) 222 

Rose  Garden: 

Bed  Designs 63 

•  Diseases =  .      69,  317 

Distance  Apart 66 

Insects  Troubling  Roses 67,  306 

Location 64 

Pruning 67,  260-262 

Soil   and    Planting    Directons 

64,  65,  66 

Summer  Treatment 67 

Time  to  Plant 66 

Width  of  Beds 64 

Winter  Protection 289 


Page 

Roses:     Brier 70 

Climbing 71 

How  to  Cut 67 

Hybrid  Perpetual 73 

Hybrid  Tea 72 

Moss 74 

Pernetiana 74 

Polyantha 74 

Prairie 71 

Rambler 74 

Rugosa 70 

Tea 72 

Varieties,  A  few 70 

Rustic  Furniture 160,  164 

Rutabaga ^ 207 


S 


Sage  (Herb) 222 

Salsify 207 

Salvia 135 

Savory,  Summer  (Herb) 222 

Scarlet  Sage 135 

Scilla 147 

Sea  Kale 207 

Seedo,  Germination  of  Flower 100 

Shrubs.     Beds  of 51 

Broad-leaved  Evergreen 52 

Edible  Berried 52 

Flowering  Dates  of 58 

For  Ground  Cover 54,  55 

For  Indoor  Use  or  Forcing 57 

For  Wet  Places 66 

For    Low-Growing    and    Trail- 
ing  54,  55 

Pruning 262 

Some  of  Best  Varieties 49 

Winter  Protection 290 

Azaleas 53,  57    Magnolia 57 

Berberis 51     MountainLaiuel54 

Bridal  Wreath. .   50     Myrica 55,  57 

Calycanthus...  .   52     Philadelphus.  .  .    51 

Clethra 56     Privet 52 

Chionanthus...  .  56    Rhododendrons. 
Cotoneaster . . .     55  52,  56 

Daphne 55-56     Rhus 54 

Deutzia 51     Snowball 51 

Elaeagnus 52     Spiraea 50,  51 

Euonvmus 52     Strawberry 

.  Forsythia. ...  50.  57         Shrub 52 

Golden  Bell. .50,  57     Sumach 5.4 

Holly 54     Sweet  lern 55 

Honeysuckle....  51     Vacclniums 

Hydrangea 51  52,  56,  57 

Hypericum 55     Viburnum. .  .51,  52 

Ilex 54     Vinca 54 

Kalmia 54,67    Weigela 51 

Kerria 52     White  Fringe. .  .   66 

Lilac 60    Xanthorrhiza. . .  55 

Lonicera 61    66 


INDEX 


379 


Page 

Shrubs    and    Climbers,    Blooming 

Dates  of 58-61 

Snapdragon 94,  135,  306 

Snowball 51 

Snowdrop  (Galanthus) 145 

Sowing  Table  for  Vegetables 185 

Soap  and  Water  (Insecticide) 294 

Sorrel 45 

Spinach 207 

Spirsea 50,  306 

Spraying  Equipment  for  Insects.... 293 

Squash 207 

Squash  Bug 306 

Stable  Manure 255 

Storage   Cellar,   the  Home   Food 

Winter 218 

Straw  Flowers 94 

Strawberries 240 

Insects  troubling 307 

Diseases 317 

Sweet  BasU  (Herb) 221 

Sweet  Potato 318 

Sweet  Peas 91,  135-138 

Sweet  Wilham  (Dianthus) 138 

Swiss  Chard 210 

Syringa  (Lilac) 50 


Tagetes 125 

Tansy  (Herb) .  * 222 

Tarragon  (Herb) 222 

Thorn 45 

Thyme  (Herb) 222 

Tobacco,  Insects  affecting 307 

Trees  and  Shrubs 43-63 


Trees,  General  List  of: 


Acer 51 

Ailanthus 47 

Ash 46,  47 

Beech 44 

Birch 44,  46 

Ceris  (Red  Bud)  51 

Chestnut 47 

Crab  Apple 45 

Cypress 46 

Dogwood 47 

Elder 46 

Elm 44,  48 

Gingko  (Maiden- 
hair)  48 

Hawthorn 51 

Hemlock 46 

Hickory 47 

Holly 54 


Juniper 54 

Locust 47 

MaidenhairTree  48 
Maple. .  .  45,  46,  48 

Magnolia 47 

Oak,  Pin 47 

Oak.  Red.... 44,  48 
Oxydendron. ...   45 

Pine 45 

Plane,  Oriental.   48 

Poplar 47 

Sorrel 45 

Sweet  Gum 45 

Thorn 45 

Tulip  (Lirioden- 

dron) 44,  46 

Willow 46 


Page 

Trees:      For  Shade   and    Shelter 

upon  the  Lawn 44,  45 

Evergreen 45 

Colored  Foliage  Trees 45 

Blooming  Dates 58 

For  Lawn 44,  45 

For  Streets 46,  47 

Planting 48 

Moving  Large 285 

Pruning  Tables 264-267 

Seed  Sowing 272 

Windbreaks,  For 290 

Winter  Protection 290 

Tomatoes 211,  307,  318 

Tools,  Garden 334-338 

Tritoma 138 

Tubers,     Rhizomes,     Rootstocks, 

Bulbs,  Corms 367 

Tulips 148,  318 

Tulip  Tree  (Liriodendron)  .44,  46,  307 
Turnips 211,  212,  307 


Vacciniums 52,  56,  57 

Valerian  (Herb) 222 

Vegetables,     Canning     for     Win- 
ter  357-362 

Vegetable  Garden,  The 173-222 

Canning  for  Winter  Use. .  .  .  357-362 
Celery,  Wintering  in  a  Trench.  .216 
Cultivation,  General  Principles 

of 181 

Digging  the  Soil 177 

Drainage  of 175,  215 

Fitting     it     into     the    General 

Scheme 174 

Formulating  a  Planting  Plan.  .  .  174 

Gardening  Tools 184 

Growing  Plants  for  Setting  Out.  176 

Harvesting  and  Storing 183 

Hotbed,  How  to  Make 176 

Insects  and  Diseases 183 

See  also  Insect  Pests. 

Manuring 177 

Mid-Summer  Gardening 245 

Soils,    Methods   of  Testing    for 

Acidity 215 

Sowing  and  Planting  Table 185 

Sowing 178,  179 

Transplanting 178,  180 

Vegetable  Grower,  Useful  Point- 
ers for 214-216 

Watering 18t 


380 


GARDEN  GUIDE 


Vegetable  Garden,  The: 

Cviltural  Directions  for 


Page 


Asparagus 186 

Beans 186 

Beets 188 

Broccoli 188 

Brussels  Sproutsl88 

Cabbage 189 

Carrots 189 

Cardoon 191 

Cauliflower 191 

Celeriac 192 

Celery 192 

Chicory 193 

Chinese      Cab- 
bage  193 

Collards 193 

Corn,  Sweet. ...  193 

Corn  Salad 196 

Cress 196 

Cucumbers 196 

Egg  Plant 197 

Endive 197 

Horse  Radish...  197 

Kale .198 

Kohl-Rabi 198 

Leek 198 


Lettuce 199 

Melons 200 

Mushrooms 200 

Mustard 201 

Okra 201 

Onions 201 

Parsley 202 

Parsnips 202 

Peas 203 

Peppers 203 

Potatoes 204 

Pumpkins 206 

Radishes 206 

Rhubarb 206 

Rutabaga 207 

Salsify 207 

Sea  Kale 207 

Spinach 207 

Squash 207 

Swiss  Chard. . .  .210 

Tomatoes 21 

Turnips 212 

Veg.  Marrow. .  .212 

Watercress 213 

Watermelons. .  .213 


Vegetable  Marrow 212 

Vegetables  for  Winter 217 

Vegetables,  Suitable  Fertilizers  for.253 

Viburnum 51 

Vinca    minor    (Myrtle,   or    Peri- 
winkle)     77 

Vines 55,  91 

Violets 307 


W  Page 

Walnut 307 

Water  Garden,  The: 

Waterside  Plants 152-154 

Water  Lily  Pond 153 

Watercress 213 

Water  Lilies 153,  154 

Watermelons 213 

Weigela 51 

Wet  Places,  Bushes  for 56 

WUlow 46,  308 

Windbreaks  for  Trees  and  Shrubs .  290 
Window  Boxes: 

Concrete , .  .  169 

Plants  for 170-172 

Porch 168 

Self- Watering 168 

Wicker 169 

Winter  Protection  of  Plants: 

Coldframes,  Mat  Covered 289 

Frost,  Facts  About 290 

Leaf  Coverings 288 

Lilies  and  Roses 289 

Reed  or  Straw  Mats 288 

Trees  and  Shrubs,  Windbreaks 

for 290 

Weeds,  Lawn  and  Garden. . .  .319-321 

Weeding  Lawns 38 

Winter  Storage  of  Vegetables.217,  218 
Woods,  Trees  and  Shrubs  from.. .  .  63 
Wormwood  (Herb) 222 

Z 
Zinnia 139 


GARDEN  GUIDE  381 


MEMORANDA 


382  GARDEN  GUIDE 


MEMORANDA 


GARDEN  GUIDE  333 

MEMORANDA 


384  GARDEN  GUIDE 


MEMORANDA 


t 


_V  ,4' 


Z) 


